How-To: Repair or Replacement of Massey Ferguson Brakes - Massey MF 165 Brake Replacement

[Music] today we're going to take do the brakes we're doing the right rear brake on the 165 massey my grandson nick and myself are going to be pulling apart here and so we're going to start i'm going to go around and drain the oil and so under here there's the rear axle drain plug and so we're going to take this plug here and drain the oil because you have to drain the oil because the we have to pull the trumpet housing on the right side okay we're now backing off the brake mechanism because you have to totally remove the nut off the brake adjuster so that it's free to remove well while he's doing that if you want to come around to the back we'll get a present wrench and we're going to take the three also the three-point hitch linky jaw so there's a nut here and i'm going to remove this nut here i have to take these two bolts off here to remove the hydraulic coupler so that it's out of way out of the way of this here bolt here and so now i'm gonna get the impact we got a sour cream container here that we're using to put all the nuts in so that we can keep track of the nuts as we take it off so he's got those two nuts off so we'll take this coupler off here and we'll just put it aside for now so that it's not in our way to remove the stuff now we can get this bolt out if it'll come i'll need a hammer i guess it looks like we have the knot removed here just so that the looks like the three-point hitch has been stressed at some time and so the bolt has actually got a bit of a bend and so it's tighter than what it should be okay so now we're going to remove the three-point hitch lift arm and we'll put it aside here [Music] the next thing we're going to do is uh jack it up and so we have a jack under here and we got a jack right in the middle here and now we're going to jack up the center differential and because we have a front end loader here we're going to come in with the front end loader and put the chain on the wheel we're going to let the front end rotor do the lifting [Applause] okay now we're removing the brake mechanism from the trumpet housing so we took the two bolts top and bottom and there and then this mechanism should pull okay then we have to take the cotter pin out of the brake rod and remove the brake rod up to the brick okay we're now removing the rod from [Music] that taking out the pelvic pin and then it all fell apart we're removing the lower link brackets so we can get access to the bolts on the trumpet housing so right now we're just taking the bolts off to accomplish that okay now we're going to remove roller bolts around the trumpet housing on the rear axle so that's what's going to happen here next and nick's going to come and use the impact on the front here and remove the bolt so just sour cream container here so we don't lose them i believe we got all the nuts off just check and make sure you have all the nuts off and then you're ready to pull the trumpet housing away hey you can see there's a little notch here then that notch is to get it to start going we use the jack so that we have the split the same distance top and bottom and now we're ready to pull the axle away so nick's going to start the front end loader again and [Music] so [Music] [Music] okay now you you see we've backed the tractor away and put a stand under and set the wheel down just to support it here for working on and because this is the right wheel it has the differential lock here that we have to remove to get this plate off so that's what i'm going to do next here we're going to take this roll pin out [Music] punch so this is the roll pin here that i took out of the shift collar and i'll put it in the can to keep track of it that allows us to pull this plate off so the next thing to get this plate off there is two screws here that we have to take out and so to get those out first of all just to loosen them i'm going to take a chisel and just start them if you don't sometimes they'll be rusted in and you won't be able to get them started and your screwdriver will slip so if you'll just take the chisel and start them a little bit then when you get the screwdriver you'll be able to unscrew them another screwdriver nick looks like go ahead and take that one [Music] okay so we're doing this so that we can take this cover plate off to get at the breaks is what we have to do here so these are the two 5 16 fine threaded screws that we took out that hold the cover plate on [Music] then if you'll go to these notches again you'll see there's a notch in the side here that i'm going to put the screwdriver in to separate the two plates removing the cover plate and we'll set it down over here that gives us access to the brakes now these brakes are very rusted up as you can see so this is all full of rust and dirt that's given as part of the problem that these brakes are all seized up so we take off the one disk and actually it is not as bad as the one was on the other side then we remove the assembly [Music] and another disc and those are the what's left in there and so we'll get this all cleaned up now we'll have to clean this up and we're putting in a new assembly that is down here on the floor so these are the two discs and the assembly that we'll be replacing today okay so this is the assembly here that applies the brakes the the way they work is there's two plates here and when this lever here is pulled it goes up the ramp and applies the the the two discs separate so if you can look close down into here when i when i pull this out you'll see that they're actually trying to separate here to apply the break so this is the assembly that we're going to replace here and so we're going to start here by removing the cotter pin because this linkage here does not come with the new assembly so we'll get this one here off here i'll take this cotter pin out clevis pin here it's a little rusty that's why it's a little sticky here and so this here is the old assembly that we're removing so now this here is our new assembly that we're putting in here comes we we purchased it at a i tractor parts and so you can see that this assembly is identical to the one we took out so now we have to put this linkage back into here and we'll put a little bit of lubricant on this clevis pin here before we put it in okay so we actually took this to the shop and actually run the tap down it just to clean up the threads on the end because it had a little bit of damage and so now we're back ready to assemble it and i'm going to put a little drop of luber plate on the pin here just to initially give it some lube and then we'll put it back together here and putting the clutter pin back that we took out of it bending the tits over on the cotter pin we'll bend them right around in this location because of the clearances inside so we'll bend the ends of the cotter pin right back to the clevis pin and also we'll we'll actually just take a little bit of virus all they package this for shipping with some loop some kind of oil on it just to keep it from rusting during storage storage and shipping so we're going to put a little bit of varisol this is an orange juice this is a little bit of our salt here that we have in here to clean that oily fill them off that they had for shipping so we did that on both sides and now we're ready for assembly okay so you can see now that we have got this partially cleaned up here this is the plate here that goes against those discs to hold the discs in but there's a seal here that keeps the differential oil from coming out onto the brake discs and it's a good idea to change this seal whenever you do the brakes because uh if this leaks out it just ruins your brake job so what i'm using here is the tractor to hold this down hold the plate solid for me here while i pull the seal out you just use a regular old crowbar here to catch in the corner of the seal here and i'm going to pry that seal out we're going to give it a half a turn and try again now i need something to that piece of wood there okay yep and we're gonna have to do it the third time looks like we're having trouble getting the peel out a bit okay so we took this old seal out of the tub here and now we're going to clean it up so i'm going to actually take a little bit of mostly the rust off here so i'm going to use two the angle grinder first and then i'm going to finish it with the sander so you might not be able to hear for a minute [Applause] hey okay so now we've got and the reason for cleaning this up is to try and take the groove off here so that the brake will not wear in as fast or it will last longer type of thing so we got that so now we need the seal and we'll put the new seal in and you got to remember this the seal always goes towards the this is the new seal part number 832 954 m3 and that's been around the same seal for a long time so you'll see that there's a hole in the bottom here and it would be best if you line it up with the drain hole here it doesn't have to be and of course you want the lips towards the oil and the oil is on the bottom side of this here and so we're going to put the seal in from this side here [Music] the proper thing would be to have a seal driver that would fit that and drive it down even but for the most part i put enough seals in that we can drive them in and making sure the oil hole is lined up here so now we're this is pretty well ready to go we did lose the differential mechanism here when we were getting the seal out so now we're going to put this back in so this goes in with your jaws up so that they catch in the differential to do the lock and then this goes into the collar in the thing there so that it will be able to activate the differential lock now we're ready to go back together this particular model doesn't have any o-ring the newer ones have an o-ring in here this this particular is an earlier six 165 and so there's no uh o-ring on this here gland here so uh we're ready to go back together here so we're gonna take this back over and then we'll start assembling so we need a brake disc first so these are our new brake discs and they're non-riveted they're so the brake disc goes in there and we clean that up and then we have our new mechanism that we cleaned up so then that goes in like that and then we have another disc that goes on there and if everything's assembled correctly the disc should the spline should come roughly flux flush with those uh teeth there on the shaft now we're ready to put our disc on this here is the gland that uh the seal rides on so we want to make sure that it's nice and clean actually i could take a little bit of emery cloth and just clean it a little bit here okay we're going to just uh put a little drop of luber plate on that shaft where the seal goes for two things kind of to help the seal ride up onto there and to lubricate it initially in case we turn the shaft before we actually get oil into the transmission so to protect that seal now we're ready to align this mechanism back up and we'll put it on here this came off very nice so it should slide back on i'll get you to run the slipper foot punch just to put it in there and kind of lift up on that two screws leave that in okay now we're going to put our two screws that we took out before a little bit of penetrate moving here so the screws screwdriver and these basically hold it together while you're assembling it they have no physical function once you get it all bolted together but this is what holds that plate together when you're putting it together so just tap it a little bit here to see if it centers and i think it did move a little bit so i can tighten it a little bit more because i went that much i'm going to do it again just this is cast so you can't hit it real hard but just to make sure it's up in place and that feels good okay now we gotta reassemble the roll pin in this fork so and there we have the roll pin in and then we're ready now to put it back together now cleaning off the uh center differential housing the old gasket was damaged and so we're replacing the gasket on there so nick just took the gasket off and now he's going to grab the grabbing so we'll make sure that this is clean and no old gasket there because if there's a chunk of old gasket it won't let the new gasket in place you can the gasket can go on either way as far as inside or out but it does have the extra holes in the bottom that have to line up so you have to get it in the correct orientation without breaking it because it is a temperamental gasket and that's what keeps the oil in the differential it and that seal that we replaced keeps the oil from going out into your brakes well this gasket keeps it from going out externally and now we're ready to install the trumpet housing rear axle housing onto the center differential [Applause] got the tractor in neutral and we're just using the jack so we have a little better control of going together so okay so now we got the trumpet the housing together with the center and we put the nuts on and we tightened them all up around here so we have the whole roll bolts tightened now and so we're ready to move to put our brake mechanism back on okay so now we're going to put the brake mechanism back on the housing and so we have a long and a short bolt the long bolt goes in the top and the short one in the bottom first i have to get the brake actuator adjustment bolt through the rubber here and so now we'll put it on and then we'll tighten those two bolts [Music] and we got to put the the pivot on it and then the adjusting nut on that bolt so okay and now we're gonna connect the linkage to the mechanism so we got the clevis pin in and now we're going to put the cotter pin in to hold it hmm and so we'll just bend the cotter pin a little bit because that's so it can't come out you can push down on the right break there and see how it compares to the other one tight enough already and i i'm going to give this other one just a little comparison sweet try again this one's a little tighter now tighter now just like okay it's about the same okay we want the pedals to go about halfway down we don't want to over tighten them so that they try to lock on on us we want the pedal to be half the height so we're now done adjusting the brakes and i guess we're ready

Channel: Clint Rousell

Views: 348,033

Keywords: Massey, Massey Ferguson, Massey Brakes, Massey Brake Repair, MF Brakes, MF Brake Repair, 165 tractor, 165 tractor brake, 165 tractor brake repair, Massey Ferguson brakes, Massey Ferguson brake repair, Massey 1085, Massey 285, Massey 1080, Massey 165, Massey 175, Massey 180

Id: KpXpoi9O1BU

Length: 34min 59sec (2099 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 10 2020