Using the Jointer

hey there guys and welcome back so what are we talking about today I'll tell you what we're talking about today we're talking about the jointer not about the tune-up not about the setup but more of the way that you use it and how to get good results just from your technique you'd be amazed how many guys out there have a jointer and they're using them and they're getting really lousy results and then can't figure out why so I'm going to run through the simple steps today of how to use your jointer to get some good results okay so what is the purpose of a jointer I know I know you're going to say if so that you can join two boards but in together and make sure that those boards are flat on the one end okay maybe that's one purpose but for me the main purpose is to give yourself to perfectly flat and perpendicular surfaces from which to reference all the rest of your cuts from if you try to run a board through a thickness planer that has an uneven or concave surface on the bottom that thickness planer will duplicate to some degree that imperfection on the opposite side you're not getting a true board if you have an imperfect edge and you place it against your fence and you're trying to rip it in your table saw of course you are just going to duplicate the imperfection and possibly cause yourself some kickback or some harm by doing that you need the two flat and perpendicular surfaces in order to get your reference points a perfectly flat and straight edge will ensure that as long as your board is kept tight against your fence you will in fact rip an exact parallel cut on the opposite opposite side of the board therefore making the board perfectly straight on both sides a perfectly flat bottom or surface plane will of course translate to a perfectly flat thickness plane when it's run through your thickness planer because that planer will in fact duplicate that flatness and that perfection so in order to bump your woodworking up a notch you need to have a good basis and the basis of a flat edge and a flat surface is where you start and that is the purpose of a jointer so the first thing that you want to understand is the principle of how a jointer works without really understanding how it works how can you use it properly rule number one this red thing right here does your blade guard don't ever remove this it's there for a reason accidents can and will happen and this baby right here is your friend that's going to keep all of these digits right where they belong instead of down into the dust collector so first and foremost do not remove this protective plate the jointer has three main surfaces and they all play an important role when it comes to jointing a board you have your back fence which will adjust in and out according to the width of your board it also adjusts side-to-side depending if you're your jointing an angle or what-have-you you have what I'm going to call your in feed table which is on this side this is where your board starts and works its way toward the blade and then of course you have your out feed side of your table the out feed side of the table is adjusted so that it is perfectly aligned at the same height as your cutting blades your in feed table is just slightly lower but making sure that this surface here is parallel with your blades and of course in turn parallel with your out feed the concept here is because you're in feed table is lower as your piece of wood comes over the blade it skims off just that little bit that's required to get it up onto your outfeed and as it rides across the outfeed it will trim off anything that is not at the level of the outfeed table that's the important part that you need to understand because at this point in time as you're feeding through a blade or sorry as you're feeding through a board if you are applying pressure on the infeed side you are in fact planing for what's here not for what's here the pressure on the board should be placed on the outfeed side of the table and I'm going to demonstrate that for you so the first thing that we want to do of course is set up our jointer now because I check it regularly I know that I'm properly calibrated and everything is hunky-dory but you still have to set it up for the board that you're using so I'm going to pull my fence in and I want to expose as little of the blade as possible while still giving myself clearance to work with push pads and whatnot with the jointer so I slide my fence into a comfortable distance to allow the board to pass through and then lock it down now the important part here and you don't want to really skimp on this and you don't want to not do it is you want to check it for square you guys have seen my videos you know that I do love my be lilt box and I'm not sure if you can see this but we're perfectly square here don't just check one side of the fence guys check them both things can happen things can twist you want to check both sides of the fence to ensure that both sides are square both the infeed and the outfeed okay so you got your jointer set up everything looks great everything's squared your fences is adjusted in for the proper width of your board but now you want to decide how to run your board through my suggestion here and although it runs against some of the principles of cross-cutting is you want to do it with the concave side down to your jointer if you have it so that the convex side is down to your jointer you'll get that rocking motion on your jointer beds and it will cause you problems so we're going to go with the concave side of this piece of oak and it's a rough sawn so it doesn't look that pretty but we're going to go with the concave side down to the jointer and we're going to show you how to go about jointing this piece of oak okay so first things first before you start jointing the board you want to make sure you got push pads you know guys know I stress this stuff keep your fingers in check use some push pads when jointing definitely no questions asked and a discussion the next thing you want to make sure is safety glasses eyewear and of course you guys know I'm big on it hearing protection so as you can see up here as I'm feeding the board through from the infeed table to the outfeed table i'm keeping the pressure using the push pads on the outfeed table section of the board at some points in time once I get the board on to the outfeed table I actually raise up the second pad so that I'm not inadvertently placing pressure downward onto the infeed table this is the important part it's important where you put the pressure because you don't want the blades to try to translate the height of the infeed table to your board you could in fact end up planing a taper or an arc so keep your pressure just like I'm showing here on the outfeed side of the board once we get this piece of oak run through the jointer you can see this looks an awful lot different than what it did when it was the rough cut but I've taken a pencil and I've marked a little X right here that is just to show me that this is the jointed surface this is the flat surface now and I like to check it with a flat edge or a straight edge I checked it from corner to corner looking underneath for any light that will be coming underneath the straight edge and then I check it from this corner to this corner to ensure that there's no light that pretty much tells me as I run this straight edge across the board looking underneath it I can see no light it's completely flush onto my straight edge and I know now I have a perfectly flat piece of oak now we want to do the edge jointing to give us that 90 degree perpendicular surface that I was referring to earlier so now what we want to do is create that surface so that initial plane that you did here or in this case we're going to call this the face plane you put the X on there that face plane now goes against your fence of your jointer and as you can see here by running it through and keeping pressure against the side of the board to keep it flat against the fence and again the same pressure to the front to the outfeed side of the table you continue until you joint the entire surface of that board and then you want to check it so same method as before with your straight edge corner-to-corner checking it for light coming underneath this one again perfectly flat and this is the important part now once you're done take a trusted square lay it on the end of your board and run it from end to end slowly watching for any imperfections along the way and there isn't one - perfectly perpendicular surfaces perfectly flat all the way along we went from this board here to well this board and it didn't take that long to do a minimum loss of material and again any cut that we do from here on in because of our perfect reference points will translate that squareness and flatness to the next cut and then the next cut and so on and so on so if you have a jointer and you're having poor results try doing it like this and see if it will improve things I think you'll see a big improvement don't forget the dust collection on the jointer guys and please please please remember your PPE or your personal protective equipment this stuff is loud thanks for watching guys and we'll see you next week you

Channel: kennyearrings1

Views: 121,244

Rating: 4.8805394 out of 5

Keywords: jointer, jointing, wood, woodworking, wood working, methods, jointer methods, how to, tips, tutorial, tricks, help, scroll, kenbo

Id: 3tUhWbd4rck

Length: 13min 8sec (788 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 06 2013