No part of this job has been easy. Months
ago Ashley and I discovered something really scary! We found a massive amount of rot inside
of the wall below our kitchen door "Oh my God Ashley!" The wall was legitimately on the verge of
collapse our staircase was supported by a single bolt in a rotten beam and since then
we have removed the rot, rebuilt the wall, sistered in new joists, and recited the facade.
But the one thing that we didn't actually do is fix that leak. Winter is a really hard
time to repair leaks. It's damp, it's cold and all the sealants and adhesives you need
to use stop working when things are wet and temperatures are below freezing. Although
the main issue causing the leak is a lack of flashing around the door, because of the
seasonal reasons I just mentioned, like a weird sleet or something I decided the best
place to start was with an awning. This will provide a lot of rain protection and it allowed
me to begin the project indoors. In the previous video I got the timber framing done and mounted
but as soon as I moved outside this project became a challenge not because it's hard to
make but because it's two and a half stories up in the air and I've been working from a
32 foot ladder Behind the scenes filming has also presented
its fair amount of challenges let alone the rain and snow The Landing is only four foot
by four foot meaning I can't fit me and a tripod on it so this video was shot a little
different than normal I spent a fair amount of time setting up tripods on my neighbor's
roof challenges aside I am determined to persevere so we can get this awning done and stop that
leak [Music] Thank you in the previous video I made the rafters at the
same time as I made this fascia board and it was cut out using the rafters as a template
to make sure that it fit nicely now the time I didn't have a ladder tall enough to reach
the spot to install it so I had to borrow one thanks to my buddy Stu for Lending me the
ladder I'm sorry Stu I might have accidentally dropped it turns out I'm used to moving 24
foot ladders but a 32 foot ladder is a different story so I asked my buddy Corbin to help me
get it into position so I also threw an extension ladder up on
the stair side and this worked pretty darn well I was able to lift sheets of plywood
up on the stair side which was a little bit easier going and actually lean the sheathing
against the 32 foot ladder and nail most of it off from the stair side foreign I reached as much as I could from the ladder
on the stairs and then went over to the other ladder to finish it off with the sheathing done it is time to install
the drip edge and the drip edge just allows you to redirect the water away from the roof
and into the gutters I like to install drip edge about a half inch away from the fascia
board so I actually slide it out a little bit it's not pressed up tight against there now I had a lot of trouble getting this front
quarter nailed in uh it's not because I'm bad at hammering I don't think it's because
this front corner is a little bit bouncy since it's unsupported from underneath I needed
to shore it up and I figured out a way to do that later with the stair side installed I could go over
the other side and install the second drip edge on the peak of the roof I added this product
that's called Vicor it's a self-sealing membrane it's self-adhesive and it seals around any
Fasteners any nails or screws that you put through it foreign I realized that my ladder was starting to
damage the drip edge that I just installed so from the back side of the fascia I screwed
in a couple blocks so that the ladders have something to rest up against I was a little concerned about the ladder
sliding off the side of the awning so I screwed in a little block just to prevent that from
happening while I'm working and not paying attention I also hammered in this padded 2x6
this is going to help cut down on that bounciness so my nails Drive in easier back in the shop I cut some tar paper to length
I also found the middle of the tar paper and cut this little Notch this is actually going
to let me fold the back edge of the tar paper up against the wall and add just a little
bit of extra moisture protection between the wall and the awning outside I could roll the
tar paper over the top of the roof align that Center Line and try and set up my GoPro so
that you can actually see what's going on wow sorry foreign to attach the tar paper to the roof
I used a hammer attacker to staple it on and I'm not sure what happened but my middle measurement
must have been a little bit off I was I was just shy by a couple inches so I added in
another strip of tar paper underneath to finish off this section I left the tar paper about an inch long in
the front and that's because it's going to sit underneath another section of drip edge
the drip edge gets cut at the same angle as the pitch of the roof but only on one side
in the center so this is going to allow the second side to slip underneath it and give
it a nice clean look so the order of operations on roofs is very
important basically it's designed that every time you build one layer there's a backup
layer underneath so that water Gets behind there it can run out also on this side drip
edge I like to leave it long and then cut it away afterwards I find that once it's installed
it's really easy to cut it to size it's a little harder to measure it and find the angles
when you're down on the ground as I mentioned before the other side of the flashing gets
cut square and then that gets slipped underneath that beveled Edge that we cut before [Applause] these are basic asphalt shingles they came
from the Home Center I tried to match the existing roof as best as possible the old
roof is a little Sun faded and honestly it's about as close as I could find so this is
what's called Step flashing it's typically used when you transition between two roof
sections or roof in a wall I'm going to say that I'm not doing it exactly by the book
and I'll explain that in a minute but first I want to talk about how I'm starting this
front edge so I'm following the instructions that are on the package depending on what
shingles you use the instructions may vary but this one asks for a front edge with a
half a course that you nail in four locations and for every single strip that I lay on I
lay on a new piece of Step flashing I'm also in setting from the step flashing about a
half an inch and I'm overhanging the drip edge on both sides on the second side I got smart and pre-cut
all the shingles the shingles are slightly longer than the roof so I pre-cut them all
down below the first side I was running up and down the ladder and I didn't want to do
that on the big 32 foot ladder so pre-cut all these and then just hung them over the
top of the roof so it could grab them from the top and then nail them on from the bottom
up foreign flashing I mentioned before that I'm not quite
doing this right ideally you would have the siding of the building that goes over the
top of the the step flashing that would get it completely waterproof obviously there's
a chance that I will have water that gets behind the step flashing my only other alternative
was to cut a Groove in the current siding and Slot a piece of Z flashing up underneath
I may still do that if the water seems to be a problem getting behind there but I don't
want to damage the siding in the process so I'm I'm gonna wait and see I've had a ton of folks ask me about these
orange heeled shoes I've been wearing and where they can get them these are the Timberland
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their Footwear they decided to sponsor this video and sent me out another pair of sneakers
to test these are the brand new Setra composite Safety Shoe not only do these look great they
take all the boxes as far as I'm concerned I feel like as a garage woodworker it's hard
to find a good middle zone between safety and comfort boots that are built for construction
are too bulky for me and sneakers don't have the support and safety that I need these shoes
have a slip resistant non-marking Eva Sole and a lightweight composite toe so if you
drop a sheet of plywood on your feet you'll be safe Timberland Pro's anti-fatigue technology
provides all-day support and comfort while their athletic inspired styling comes in a
bold variety of colorways so if you wear them outside the shop I promise you'll have people
asking where you got your shoes from again I'll leave a link down below to where you
can find these shoes and loads more great gear from Timberland PRO thanks Timberland
PRO now back to the build I think the hardest thing for me to figure out with this step
flashing was on the peak of the roof I watched several videos I saw a bunch of different
tutorials on how to do this it's kind of a spot that's prone to leaks but I couldn't
figure out the perfect solution for how to overlap these without creating a gap underneath
them I cut out several different shapes and uh
experimented But ultimately I was left a little bit confused not sure I know what I'm doing the next morning I got up and I had a a better
understanding of what I had seen in those tutorials and here's what I came up with on
one side of the roof I did a straight cut bended over the front and then added a bit
of silicon in the spot that's most likely to leak and then Oprah will have that with a mirrored
piece pressed it into the wall and nailed it off I added more silicon and then added another
piece that was cut at a 45 degree angle [Music] I then bent up another piece that was at that
90 degree angle and nailed it on to the opposing side foreign with the flashing finished up I can start
in on the ridge shingles and these are a different kind of shingle they sell them in separate
packs they sort of break away into individual pieces and you want to nail them on away from
the dominant direction of the wind in this situation it's obvious the wind is going to
go towards the building so start from the inside and worked my way back so in the last video I got a lot of comments
saying that I built this awning like a tank and I will admit that I knew that I was climbing
up on top of this thing that at some point I have to stand on it so no regrets on my
end so you'll notice that I am actually gluing
down the last shingle this is again to make sure that it doesn't accidentally lift up
in the wind and then the only choice that I have at this last bit on the roof is to
face nail it so I'm putting four Nails into it and I'm gonna go back over the top of that
with some sealant so nothing happens to leak I have to say I was pretty relieved at this
point to not be on top of that roof anymore now it's time to address the underside and
deal with the gutters foreign of the awning to have a nice finished
look so I picked up some of this soffit paneling this is tongue and groove so it's going to
slot together it's also Douglas fir so it's going to match the beams that I put in in
the previous video also like the beams I'm going to apply a couple of coats of Halcyon
clear this is a total boat product I've got a whole video on how to use this stuff I made
sure to apply it to the end grain as well as the front and back just so that I've got
complete coverage and then I can install it outside it was a bit of a tight fit for the
first piece it pressed up against the fascia but that's kind of what I want I don't want
any gaps the only Gap that I do want is between the the beams and the paneling these are solid
wood so I want to allow for expansion and contraction so put about a sixteenth on either
side foreign the panels with some trim head screws through
the tongue I found that I had to pre-drill those just to make sure that it didn't crack
I also put a couple of face screws into the top and bottom most panel just to make sure
they didn't lift up over time in every project that I build there's a moment
where it starts to look like something like it's coming together and I feel like this
is finally the moment where this awning starts to look like you know a real awning foreign as you can see I'm leaving some gaps and this
is because there are four panels that will need to be cut to fit so I got as many of
them installed as I possibly could and then I could take measurements so I could cut the
rest of them in the shop with those measurements I set my table saw
to 35 degrees that's the same angle that I've been cutting all the angles at on this entire
build and I trimmed off the excess I think I just lucked out some of these were barely
long enough and I'm not sure what I would have done if I had to stitch in a small panel
below before installing them I also added some total boat Halcyon clear to the exposed
edges the nice thing about the Halcyon clear is that you can recoat with an hour so I actually
got four coats on this before installation it's pretty awkward to get these things engaged
because you need the tongue and groove to line up and it sort of sets in at an angle
I went through a whole bunch of my tool bags and I found this little pry bar and that managed
to do the trick in order to connect these panels the only real option is to screw them
in from the face but again I'm using these trim headed screws so they're not very noticeable foreign you may remember from the previous video that
I had to remove a light fixture in order to install this and I actually designed this
awning around this light fixture because my mom got it for me as a housewarming gift when
I first got this house so it has a bit of sentimental value so don't worry Mom I made
a spot for it it's still there I cleaned it up it looks great and it works great too it works one of the big debates in the comments
of the last video is how I was going to get rid of some of the water that comes off the
awning you'd be surprised how much water can come off of even a small rooftop like this
and dumping all that water onto the stairs is not the best idea so I am going to be adding
a gutter I'm not gonna add gutters on both sides it's mostly over the staircase side
that I'm concerned about so I'm using these aluminum K style gutters I had a surprising
amount of trouble finding these it seems like most the big box stores have gone too vinyl
now but these are the ones that I'm used to and and I like working with I don't have all
of the tools necessary uh like I don't have a crimper for the end caps it's like a 40
tool and I didn't really feel like spending that I was able to get away with crimping
with a pair of pliers I think it's gonna be fine but if you're gonna do a larger gutter
something that's actually like an important part of your house I recommend buying a real
pair of gutter crimpers with the end cap sealed I could move on to the downspout and this
actually presented a bit of a challenge because typically a downspout returns right up to
the wall but with the awning it kind of goes perpendicular so the wide end is in the wrong
direction and it's too wide for the base of the gutter so what I did was I kind of just
crumpled the upper part of the downspout and I I reduce the size of the drop if this doesn't
make sense to you don't worry about it because it didn't work but I kind of got in the ballpark
and I'll show you how I fixed it in a minute but I want to show you how I I cut out for
this drop so I traced the outside of it where it was going to land when it's on the building
and then I went back and traced the inside of it because that's closer to what I actually
want this one for some reason has a tiny flange on them you can find ones with bigger flanges
but I really couldn't find one locally so I had to be really careful with this but I
just kind of snuck up on the cut and as soon as it was fitting well I could install it
with some silicon and after this is when everything went wrong
okay so last night I shut off the cameras and then everything fell apart I tried to
secure the drop out of the gutter and um the Silicon started to separate and then uh the
little uh clipped area right here also came apart and then I I was able to get it all
back together and thought I was good and tried to attach the downspout this elbow right here
and that started to crumple inward because I was trying to do it in the wrong orientation
so this crumpled and torqued and it wasn't Square to the gutter anymore it was obvious
that it wasn't working so I took the whole thing apart this is the vinyl coupling that
I decided not to use in the beginning because uh the small end was on the wrong side in
other words it was going to leak if I put it together in the way that it's intended
but my buddy Dan on Instagram told me that you can actually uh use a heat gun and and
crimp these in like they crimp in the elbows so that's what I'm gonna do I'm gonna give
that a shot I'm gonna put a new uh drop in and and uh hopefully hopefully this will work
we can just attach it to the building I mean sure enough Dan was right this stuff
is really easy to manipulate with the heat gun I'm so glad I figured this out because
it is a much cleaner solution to the problem fortunately I was able to just widen the hole
for the drop and uh and fit in the new flange and it worked out perfect I also added in three gutter hangers these
will align with the rafters and the roof and get screwed in from outside I let that silicon
dry overnight and then I could install it that heat gun did such an awesome job it was
perfectly fitted to the drop and then when I screwed it in no torquing or twisting whatsoever
I put in a screw from each side and now I'm sure everybody's wondering how this downspout
is actually going to go to underneath the building I think this is just dumb luck but
the stair stringer was exactly two inches away from the outside of the building and
so all that meant was that if I cut a notch in the tread I could actually slip one of
these downspouts down between the stairs and the wall I'm not sure what I would have done
otherwise uh it would have been a pretty elaborate piping job to get this thing to go anyplace
else but fortunately I was able just to run the downspout straight down and connect it
up foreign about to wrap up this video and call it there
but we got a beautiful sunny day here in Seattle and I just decided it was time to cut out
this door and actually fix the leak my buddy Louise came over for the day and he helped
me pull the old door out and put the new door in and here you can see what that sill was looking
like you can see there's no flashing on it whatsoever and the rot was so bad that I could
just pull it up you see that brand new board underneath there that's the rim joist that
Josh and I hammered in from the outside of the building and you can see all the way down
into my shop below foreign ing up the rot I leveled out the floor
and I trimmed a couple of these deck boards I want to be able to wrap the sill underneath
this deck and eventually I'm going to actually tear out all these deck boards but in order
to get enough access so that when I put the flashing in I need to have a little Gap here to cover up this area I'm using some construction
adhesive and a panel that I cut down in the shop now I cut this to fit I test fitted it
beforehand and then glued it into place foreign next up was to flash the sill and for this
I found some of these flexible sill Corners stapled them into place and started prepping
some of this Vicor Vicor is a self-adhesive flashing membrane and one thing that I recently
discovered is that you don't have to remove all the paper at once you can actually score
it and tear it this is a great trick if you've ever worked with this stuff it is so sticky
and it wants to stick to everything so this allows you to take your time just stick it
to the spots that you want and then you can remove the paper later I was able to use this
technique to adhere the middle section first and then I could go to the two sides and make
sure that those were nice and tight individually once I pressed the sides into place I could
wrap and stretch it around the front this connects to another bit of Vicor that I wrapped
underneath the siding in the previous video I also left the paper on the front edge which
is going to allow me to put the flashing up underneath that when I go to flash the deck
after I replaced all the deck boards before hanging the door I unloaded an entire tube
of silicon underneath this door I do not want it to leak and in the remote chance that water
does get up underneath here the water has a place to escape so I'm only putting the
Silicon at the back and then a couple beads coming forward now is time to install the door and I crawled
up on the roof to set up the camera what Michael does for you guys just to get the right shock foreign despite luis's kind words about getting
the right shot I kind of phoned it in on this one I did put the camera on the roof but uh
I figured I've done a video on how to install a door before you guys can check that out
but the door did go in it was relatively drama free uh definitely shimming is always a bit
of a hassle and it took us probably about half an hour to get it shimmed up and screwed
in and then the next day I came back and trimmed it out big thank you to Louise for helping
me with this I could not have gotten this done without him we had the perfect day it
took us most of the day to get the door in and I am so happy that this leak is finally
fixed and I don't have to worry about this door anymore foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] it's hard to express
how much a relief this is to have this dry and not have to worry about it anymore I've
been worried about it for seven years it was a massive project it's finally coming to the
close obviously there's more stuff to do which is to button up this wall and Fresh coat of
paint on the outside and odds and ends but for the most part it's done the rest of it's
probably gonna happen on Instagram I love the look of the new awning if you are interested
in building an awning yourself we've got plans up on my website almfab.com plans it's a step-by-step
guide that takes you through every stage of the build so hopefully it'll make it easy
for you to build one yourself thank you to the sponsor of this week's video Timberland
PRO if you are interested in picking up a pair of shoes like these which I highly recommend
go check out the links in the description below also as always a massive thank you to
my patreon supporters you guys are the best and I'll catch you on the next one foreign [Music]
