Stopping the LEAK with a TIMBER FRAME AWNING

this video is sponsored by jackery a few months back I shared with you guys a project that could really only be described as a total emergency oh my God Ashley one of the walls of my shop has been leaking for probably 30 years and it's due to a door that was improperly flashed and it was just dumping water inside of the building when we went to open up that wall we discovered that the studs in it were so brittle that we could tear them out with our bare hands in that video we rebuilt the wall from the bottom up but one thing that we didn't do was actually fix the leak so we got it structurally sound but it still leaks the problem is that the door is really exposed where it is up super high there's not a big roof overhang and the door was improperly flashed I will fix the flashing issue in a later video but for now I'm going to fix the exposure issue by building an awning over the top of it I figured now is the best time to build an awning because it's December in Seattle it's still really rainy it's still really snowy and uh this allows me to stay inside while I work on the majority of the project so let's get started [Music] if you recognize these 4x4 posts I mean I'd be surprised but if you do they're from the original wall build they're actually what I use to temporarily support both the landing and the ceiling while I was working on it and when I started this project I looked at them and they're honestly really nice clear vertical grain fur which does really well outside so I decided to see what they looked like milled down foreign has a rip capacity of three inches which is pretty standard but these posts are three and a half inches by three and a half inches so my blade doesn't cut all the way through them at its highest point so I have to finish off the cut with a little bit of hand planing so this might be a little bit confusing so I'm going to do my best to explain it um basically I'm trying to keep the same reference face on the table saw I noted that this was the the reference face that was down on the table saw bed when I was pushing it through and I was making sure to push keep it down as opposed to like push it into the fence which can kind of tilt it up so just ease it through it helps to take a real light pass on it and so now that I have this nice and flat I'm going to flip it around keeping this on the bottom running this side against the fence which should be fairly Square to the original cut and then uh pass this through so these sides will be hopefully parallel and then I can rotate it over and start cutting these faces off now it's not perfect um and you kind of have to slowly cut away at it to get it into square the best thing would be to have a jointer but I don't have a jointer in the shop so this is the best I could do [Applause] it took a little bit of time to get through all six of these posts but honestly it was kind of enjoyable I don't get a lot of time hand planing I really enjoy it and uh this was an easy way to get some practice in foreign all the posts were Square I could then cut them to size so two passes on the table so I brought them in to that three inch mark that I was looking for next up I need to clean up the ends of the posts and for that I'm going to be using the Rockler Precision miter gauge this is not only very precise it also allows me to cut them directly on the bed of the table saw which means that I get the full three inch depth of cut which I need in order to cut all the way through [Music] now I'm not cutting these to length yet I'm just squaring up the ends I'll cut them to length after I've done the joinery and I'll explain why in a minute so these posts are going to form the brackets that support the weight of the awning and they're going to be basically like shelf brackets but on a much larger scale since this is going to take quite a bit of weight I want to make sure it's nice and strong so I decided to go with a bridal joint which not only looks good but it also provides quite a bit of strength I laid out all four posts with pencil lines so that I didn't get confused when I went to cut it on the table saw now I can use those pencil lines to set up my first cut which is going to be the shoulder cut I clamped a stop block onto the side of my table saw fence this prevents the work piece from binding up as I push it through the saw and I'm using the Precision miter gauge once again to get a nice square cut for the cheek Cuts I'm going to need a different tool this is a jig that I built for another project it's called a tenoning jig it's really simple to make I do have plans for it on my website if you're interested it's essentially four boards that are screwed together and it supports your work piece as you pass it through now accuracy isn't essential on this you just want to make sure and pass all of your tenons through at the same time because when you cut the mortise on the next piece you'll cut it to match these pieces switching over to the opposing pieces I'm going to start cutting out those mortises for that I can continue using the tenoning jig I can't really make a shoulder cut on this because it's a notch that's on the inside and basically what I have to do is nibble it out because the dado stack is too short to go that full depth what I do is I nibble out on one side and then I flip it over so it stays symmetrical on both sides and so I've intentionally undercut this joint because I want to sneak up on the fit this is the essential part this is where most of the times I've messed this joint up it's been right here so I took my time made multiple Cuts again flipping back and forth on both sides to keep it symmetrical I test fit the joint until it was just right now ideally I would have a sharp flat toothed blade to cut this with and I wouldn't have to deal with cleanup on the top Edge unfortunately I didn't so I ended up chiseling out the little grooves that are left by the table saw and that allowed me to tighten up the joint a little bit more so that it would glue up without any seams now that the joints are fitting well I can cut off that extra in bit and the reason that I wait this long is that if I screwed up any of the joints there's a slight chance that I'd actually be able to repair them not that I have personal experience messing up a joint and having to start all over from the beginning with the bridal joints dialed in I can start setting up for the braces this is what the extra board is going to be used for and now you can see kind of how this bracket is going to look I decided to keep things simple and set the braces at a 45 degree angle and to get that angle right I'm using this shinwa Japanese miter Square I'll admit I bought this thing because I thought it looked pretty and they're pretty inexpensive they're like 20 bucks um but it's coming handy a lot more than expected xinhua is a brand that I keep going back to I don't have any association with them but this is one of their rulers and I think it's super accurate and really nice to use with metric and Imperial measurements so I don't want to notch these all the way into the post because that would make the post a lot weaker so just Notch them in one inch and then drew a line up to where it meets with the rest of the post I think this will give it an elegant look and it's also going to provide a bearing surface so there's something for that brace to rest on I set my table saw blade at 45 degrees and set the depth at one inch then I can use the miter gauge to cross cut all four of the posts now the next part of the cut could totally be done with a band saw but I wanted to try my hand with hand tools and so I started by knifing in all of the lines so that my saw would have something to follow before going too deep I flipped it over to the other side and cut again I'm glad that I did this because as you can see my saw blade is drifting a little bit it's really hard to capture that Inside Edge and there's a little bit of an arc in the center of it because of that but that's fine I'm going to be cleaning it up in the end anyway I just want to make sure that I don't cut too much eventually the dozuki style started to bottom out so I switched over to a Roy obasa this just doesn't have a back on it so it's easier to kind of get into those places I also cut a relief cut because that Arc was so significant that the saw was binding inside of the cut so slowly but surely I worked my way through it and was able to trim this out the more these I did the more experience I got and that's kind of what I'm looking for with this project is just a little bit more handful experience foreign off camera I made a little test block so that I could test out the joint see if there were any high spots in the center of it keep checking it and rechecking it until it fit nice and flush with all four notches cut out I could start trimming up the braces and for this I'm going to do the same thing I'm going to be using a knife to cut in the edges the only difference is I did decide to use the bandsaw on this one I had enough time with the hand saw but I still decided to do some of the cleanup with a hand tool this is a Shinto rasp I drew on the ends with some pencil just to make sure that I was sanding it away smoothly and I can see where the low spots were I gave it a double check with the square and it was ready to go foreign to connect all these parts together permanently I'm going to use a couple different fastening methods I'm going to be using screws I'm using dowels and I'm also going to be using epoxy so these will be nice and strong when they're done I'm also anticipating the holes that I need to make in order to mount it to the wall because once this thing is assembled I won't be able to get my drill press inside a counter bore for the screw head and then I drill all the way through so the screw can go through cleanly and not get bound up the ends of the bridal joints will be connected with dowels so I'm going to start by running the drill bit all the way through the joint without the tenoned piece inside this is what's called a draw bore or an offset pinned Tenon basically what I'm doing is I'm I'm actually going to drill this slightly out of Center so that it actually draws this joint together I can use the original drill bit to Mark the center and then I use an all to offset that Center so that it's going to pull it together after that it's just a matter of drilling through the Tenon in the new location the last thing to do before assembly is to cut off a little 45 degree Edge on each corner of the brackets while this may look decorative and it kind of is is also somewhat functional and that allows the rain to drip away from the building a little bit easier I'm excited to have jackery sponsoring this video here in the Pacific Northwest I spend a lot of time outside camping and exploring and jackery makes products designed for an outdoor lifestyle I just got the jackery Explorer 1000 which is a solar powered generator that allows me to bring power wherever I go last weekend I took my jackery out to the woods for a photo shoot it's always handy to have extra power when you're setting up lights when I got there I realized that one of the lights that I brought actually turned on in the bag and the battery was completely drained fortunately with the Explorer 1000 I could plug that light into the generator using a standard AC outlet the lamp charged up within a couple minutes and I could keep going on with the shoot once I took a couple pictures I reviewed that footage and out in this cold weather device batteries don't last nearly as long but Jack regenerators have both AC and DC power built into them so I can charge my laptop my cell phone and my camera batteries all at the same time the best part of all is Jack Green generators can be recharged using solar power they're easy to carry 100 watt solar panels have built-in handles and kickstands so you just lay them out and recharge your generator with the power of the sun jackery generators provide reliable power whether you are out in the woods or use them as backup when the electricity goes out visit jackery.com to explore their wide range of products they make great gifts to share with your family for the holidays thanks jackery now back to the build now that all the parts are made it's time to assemble them and to glue them together I'm using total boat high performance epoxy this stuff is made for boats which means it's great in wet weather it also has a really large open time which means that it's going to dry slower so that I have plenty of time to assemble this before having to worry about anything not that anything ever goes wrong in the glue up foreign foreign first one is glued up and it came together great there was one moment of panic in that glue up and that was when I attached these screws right here to the Cross brace when I drilled these out I drilled them straight down and what I should have done was drill them at an angle because that's going to pull the joint together what was happening was it was actually sort of riding along this slope and as it tightened it pulled the joint out and the most important part to engage is right here that's what's going to take the load and that was being pulled away so I'm going to redrill these and then uh glue this one together as well foreign as it's usually the case the second one went smoother than the first one and after waiting overnight for these to dry I could then trim off the excess on the dowels and sand them up [Music] foreign [Music] after everything was sanded I realized that I forgot to cover up the holes that were drilled out for the heads of the screws so I quickly went back cut some dowels on the bandsaw glued them into place and then trimmed them flush foreign these brackets were still pretty sharp from the Milling so I went over with some 120 grit sandpaper and broke all the edges so I'll admit that I was planning on painting these but the more I've been working on the more I like them the Douglas fur just looks so good so I'm actually going to apply a water-based varnish this is Halcyon clear I've got a full video on how to use this stuff it's great it's got a one hour dry time so I can get I need at least six coats on here so I'll be able to get that done inside of a day I'm also going to apply it to the soffit trim this stuff is uh Douglas fir as well and I'm just going to apply it to the front and the back so it's fully protected for the seasons um I will probably have to reapply this stuff after a year or two um but it's going to look a lot better and um yeah it's really nice I like this stuff a lot so let's get applying it because it's sunny outside and I need to get this hung while it's still sunny and and nice because I don't like working in the rain as I mentioned I have a full video on how to apply total boats Halcyon clear or most water-based finishes for that matter and I'll post a link right here if you're interested in learning more details the basics is that I like to apply it with a foam roller roller first get three thick coats on thin sand with 320 grit and then uh the rest of the coats get applied with a brush the first four coats are gloss and then the last two I like to put on as satin if you put satin on first it can start blushing and it looks terrible so just make sure you start with the gloss before you apply any layers of satin I had about an hour to wait in between each coat so I decided to spend some of that time repairing this doorway some of this stuff was behind trim some of it was behind some cover plates and then other sections are actually rotted and I need to repair these before I actually put the brackets into place I started by cutting out this rotted section from the t11 this panel wasn't bad enough to replace the entire thing but this section was pretty rough so what I did was I took some of the scrap left over from rebuilding the wall and I cut out a corner I then cut a 45 degree chamfer on the top edge of it and then use my oscillating multi-tool to cut the Inside Edge to the same angle that I did with the rotted piece I covered the joint with high performance epoxy and then nailed it to the wall there was a piece that was missing from when I took the door frame off that was completely rotted out so I replaced that piece as well glued in the top edge with some epoxy and nailed it off I figured since it was sunny I might as well paint and in order to do that I wanted to dry out all the surfaces so use the jackery and heat gun to dry out everything that I could and then went over the top of that with a primer some of you might be curious about the light fixture over my head I actually have to remove that in order to get the awning on and it will go back after I'm done with this process once the primer was dry I went over it with a top coat and to help the curing process the sun was doing a pretty good job but I just wanted to make 100 sure so I used the jackery again and a heat gun and just got it so that it was it was completely cured and I didn't have to worry about it gotta be careful with the heat gun though you can actually strip the paint if it's too hot I know that I'm wearing the same clothes in this shot but this is actually a couple days later I let the paint dry and I let the Halcyon clear cure in the garage for a little bit just to make sure everything was about as dry as I could get before installing the posts speaking of installing I used some Timber lock screws these are structural screws not your average screw they actually have a sheer weight of 240 pounds inside of Doug Fir these are super long they go into studs and there's three of them so that's over what 700 pounds that they can support needless to say they are going to be plenty strong enough foreign check for level and then I was ready to start framing the roof catch the pitch of the existing roof which is a 912 pitch I set my chop saw to 36 degrees I'm making a couple of test Rafters here out of two by fours I'm going to cut each end of the test Rafters and then nail them together using a little cover plate out of scrap plywood [Music] foreign this will let me bring the rafters up to the brackets and draw out the bird's mouth joints that's going to hold this thing securely to the brackets first off I make sure that it's nice and centered and once it is I take a scrap piece of plywood that I cut earlier to two inches and I can trace out the top and then align it with the side of the bracket and Trace up I'm tracing up on the Inside Edge of that and that'll give me the exact location of these joints that makes sure that the entire structure will lower down by those two inches and sink into the brackets I brought the rafters back into my shop and trimmed out those joints that I just marked out with the jigsaw and then I could go back outside and check my fit now you can see how awesome this joint is it works really well it Nestles right in and uh it's gonna help keep everything square and aligned properly when I go to make the final rafter sections happy with the fit I went back to the shop and tore these apart I needed to add one more cut into these which is going to be for the central post this will also be one of those three by three pieces I milled it up along with the rest of the parts it's made the same as the top of each bracket it just doesn't have any joinery cut into it once done that post will slot in here it will help support the center and it'll look pretty nice too the future project is still a new miter stand for my my miter saw uh but for now I'm still screwing in these these stop blocks I need to cut six of these I these are actually Cedar I had the cedar laying around they probably don't have to be Cedar but it's a nice insurance policy that they're a little more rot resistant than your standard 2x4 I ganged all six of them up and then traced out the joinery from the template piece that I made before rather than use a jigsaw which is pretty inconsistent I decided to use a circular saw to cut out at least one side of these Bird's mouths I set the depth of my saw and the angle of my saw to that 36 degrees and then could cut through to finish off the cut I went over to the bandsaw and trimmed them up now you can totally do this with a jigsaw probably most people on a job site would have a jigsaw but the bandsaw is just a little bit more consistent and more Square I'm going to be using those Timber lock screws again to Anchor this into place so I pre-drilled for the screw heads and for the shank of the screw [Music] now I'm going to kind of pre-assemble this roof just to make the installation easier and for that I'm going to use the post that I mentioned before and screw them together now I wasn't quite sure how to do this this goes right into that corner and I was having trouble with it pushing out I couldn't get good clamping surface on it so I came up with a better solution after doing this first one now I pre-drilled all the holes but I also went through and countersunk a couple of deck screws into the peak of the roof this is going to pull that joint together a lot better and then I can go back and screw in the timber lock screws and it's just way easier there we go the first rafter is easy because it's going right against the wall and I just attached it right at the end of that post but the second and third Rafters are going to need to be spaced evenly and inset a bit from the beam so I started by just attaching them with those deck screws this will allow me to move them up and down on that beam and place them correctly it was at this time that I realized that I had forgotten to make the fascia board and the reason I want to make this this early on is because I actually have materials that I can trace out the shape of the fascia the fascia is what's going to go on the front of the roof and cover up all of this structure and as you can see it's much easier now to lay it out by tracing on the actual rafter that's going to be on the end that it's going to connect to [Applause] these pre-primed boards were a little bit wider than I needed but the next sides down was too small so I trimmed those to fit and then set them underneath the rafter assembly so that I could trace out where all the joints go then it was back over to the bandsaw to cut all the parts out the trick that I like to use that's a very low math way of evenly spacing things is to basically lay out all your parts flat to the surface and then you measure up to your line and divide by however many spaces in this case it was only two spaces it was pretty easy math and then I cut a bunch of two by fours to that size I can use these to hold up the rafters while I'm installing them for those of you interested in building this project yourself there will be plans available on my website I'm not sure if they're going to make it out right when this video comes out but they will be following soon after that so make sure you check out my website almfab.com plans and if they're not available yet hop on the email list and I'll email you the instant they're ready to go once the rafters were screwed on I could tie in the ends with another bit of fascia now I don't angle cut this fascia at all I just left it square but I want it to line up with the pitch of the roof so that front corner doesn't get in the way of the sheathing and now it's the moment of truth to see if all that planning paid off and it slots into place [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] so obviously that is not uh finished there's no room but I'm sick as you can tell I'm very sick right now and uh it's currently 23 degrees outside and freezing rain is called for tomorrow so I am going to lay low enjoy the holiday and then when I come back in January I'll start in on the roof hopefully the weather will be better I don't think it was the best idea to start this project in December anyway thanks so much for watching thank you to jackery for sponsoring this video and thank you to my patreon supporters as always you guys are the best have a great holiday and I'll catch you the next one [Music] thank you

Channel: Michael Alm

Views: 181,935

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Id: wL4a_yCf4aM

Length: 31min 46sec (1906 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 23 2022