TUTORIAL: How to wire up and flash the ESP8266 12E properly! It works! (Arduino - Getting Started)

so here's the ESP 8266 this particular version is the 12E version and the first thing we'll need to do is to solder this up and I'm going to solder this in a quite an unconventional way but you'll see now okay to solder this in I'm going to use a breadboard and this is just going to hold the pins in place so I've got this thing solded up now and you can see there's the module and that's how I've solded the pieces on pieces of wire and now pretty much they're going to go into the The Bread Board like this I'll just curve those around plug them into the breadboard I need to slice the ends off the wires or strip the wires and this is how I'm going to do that make a little cut like that and then when I bite it it'll just pull straight off okay like that you can see it's quite a good cut quite even right then so I'll just put these back together nicely and there we go I bend these round again okay you should be able to eat easily put that into a breadboard now now for some planning so these are some pins that are quickly written down which we'll need to know about so RX TX that this one here and this one here we'll need to connect those to the UR device gpio0 starts to be pulled down to ground which is this one GP 15 that's going be pulled down ground which is which is this one here it's going to ground rst which is this one here we need to do something special with well potentially anyway I've gotten here RTS on U and ground attacked if you want manual do it this way if you want automatic do it this way but you need to have a maybe only certain art can do it um the en uh or sometimes power down or whatever it's called Ian is there that needs to be pulled up and VCC which is this one there needs to be pulled uh well not pull up directly on 3.3 volts there's actually another thing we need to do too we need to put a capacitor between VCC and ground and that capacitor is going to be a 0.1 uf capacitor so I'll do that now so here's the capacitor and I need to connect VCC to ground using this this needs to be as close as possible to the module and this should be the end result capacitor between VCC and ground so far so good the breadboard the ESP 8266 module with capacitor on it uh selection of these little jumper leads a big capacitor this is a th000 microfarad 35 volt capacitor it's fairly big um you don't necessarily need this size this obviously 35 volts the unit is for is designed for 3.3 volts so 35 volts is overkill and also 1,000 microfarads that's also Overkill but anyway the bigger capacitors seem to work better some resistors these particular ones are 5 kilohm you can get away with anything between 3 to 10 kilohm I believe I chose 5 voltage regulator this is an AMS 1117 3.3 volt regulator again with this Reg I've noticed that there are issues with it potentially and I've used this and uh power supply unit and I think really the power supply unit is better but um yeah generally speaking you're going to need one of these because if your power supply unit gives too much voltage or whatever you'll blow the whole unit the whole esp8266 so even though I don't think these are brilliant for the ESP they do protect it to some degree you'll need a ftdi uart on the lead to go with it you'll need that too and you'll need some sort of power supply unit I mean I don't know if you could use an adapter um a DC uh you know one of those DC adapters you could use a power supply unit like I am it doesn't really matter you could even use batteries actually but um I'm going to use power supply unit and because I'm using that I'm going to need these jumpers and and that's it really so let's get started so there's my breadboard just before I start as well there's one thing that I need to try and point out um try and keep the distance between the voltage regulator and VCC close try and keep them close together I've noticed that it works a lot better if you do that anyway to start with I'll put the regulator in so the pin out on this is ground output source so ground output source so it makes sense if I put that in here ground output and Source just double check ground output Source that's good then we want this huge capacitor in here too I've got to be careful with the polarity as well that can go in there then might as well put the ESP in next make sure all those pins are in properly we need let's start with ground we need ground ground pin straight to ground like that then gp5 which is the one next to it that's going straight to ground as well but via a resistor which in my case is 5K then the next one is gpo2 which we're not going to bother with you can actually pull it up but I'm not going to do that so the next one after that is gpio0 which again is going to be pulled down gpio0 we're pulling that down like that then the next one we have is um well we use this third pin on this side this is Chip enable which needs to be pulled up so I'll put that in put that in there this needs to be pulled up move that along actually move that to there then VCC go straight to 3.3 volts now with the ftdi art we need to connect three things we need to connect the RX pin need to connect the TX pin and we need to connect ground okay so the RX pin goes to TX which is the first pin on this side the X pin goes to RX which is the next one on this side and ground go straight to ground and I'll plug this in and push it into this here and one last thing um the first pin on this side is the rst pin that goes to RTS on the uart device it's a little bit loose there actually I'll move that over one that goes to RTS that's better and now I'm going to connect the um lead so that I can supply this this with some power so there's ground and there plus five or or whatever I'm going to give it okay and there we go that is my um my setup I consider that to be minimal setup so I'll just power this up now so I'm using a voltage regulator so that's about right 5.1 volts this one is plus and now just double check my wiring make sure it's all right and it looks fine to me oh a word of caution a word of warning here as well um when you put these components close together make sure that the leads don't short because um you can actually short things together like there was one time I was messing with this and I shorted a capacitor to a resistor because they were so close together it didn't do any damage but it just uh starting drawing a lot of current anyway so connect connect this up there right I'll get my laptop now and try this out okay now if I click upload should work compiling sketch uploading and it is uploading and it's done now I'll check the serial monitor okay so you can see the serial monitors up but nothing's showing so the issue here now is that after it's flashed what sometimes happens is that it'll reboot and try and Rebo reboot into normal mode and then run the script or the sketch or the code or whatever you want to call it it's not done that here um but that's okay this is what we have to do I'll just move the camera we have to remove the resistor from gpio0 so remove that then the yellow RTS pin you take that out it should restart and you can hear my uh my PS my power supply now doing something I'll just reset that actually if you touch the reset pin to ground and then let go it restarts you'll get a blink from the ESP as well so I'll just do that again so you can see so you get junk and then it says waiting for Wi-Fi few done client alive blah blah blah and it's working and now you should be able to see my Diagnostics on screen so that's brilliant so just a little bit of explanation now I'll move over to the um to the board so you can see again now this business with the resistor being pulled out and the reset pin being pulled out what happens is that the esp8266 um when it reboots it decides which mode it needs to boot into and that can be the flash mode or the normal running mode and when it resets with gpio0 grounded it boots into flash mode which lets you flash if it reboots with gpio0 floating or VCC High then it boots into normal mode which is the normal running mode so that's why I've been removing and putting that resistor back in because that's the resistor which grounds GPI Z and then ungrounds it this way this way I've set it up here seems to be really really reliable um most reliable way I've ever had the SP a266 working and I hope it works for you if you need any more info just WR a comment below and I'll try and get back to you thanks for watching bye

Channel: Antony Cartwright

Views: 127,742

Keywords: ESP8266, 12E, Tutorial, esp8266 12e, arduino, iot, diy

Id: YCeWpg_SqI8

Length: 19min 5sec (1145 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 22 2016