MOSFETs and Transistors with Arduino

today in the workshop we'll be interfacing high-current devices with an Arduino I'll show you how to use bjts & MOSFETs to control a lamp a motor and an RGB LED strip were taking control today so welcome to the workshop [Music] hello and welcome to the workshop and today we're going to be working with one of the basic building blocks of electronics and that would be the transistor now the transistor is the heart of everything electronics these days the kits that are inside your cell phone the chips that are inside the Arduino itself in your computer your television all of these rely on transistors the invention of the transistor in the late 1940s at the Bell Telephone labs in New Jersey is in my opinion the greatest invention of the 20th century because everything the advances we made in medical research and telecommunications in entertainment and space exploration then none of those would have been possible without the invention of the transistor and so what can this wonderful device do for us today well it can help us with an issue we have with our dwee nose and raspberry PI's and all sorts of microcontrollers and microcomputers microcontrollers and micro computers are wonderful things to build automated systems out of and we've been doing it for a while but what they cannot do is they cannot drive a high current load directly now we've already seen this when we've worked with things like stepper motors and DC motors we've used driver boards and those driver boards have transistors on them that take the low current signal from the Arduino or Raspberry Pi and use it to drive a high current signal now today we're going to be working with two specific types of transistors bipolar Junction transistors which are commonly called bjts or just regular transistors and also metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistors which are called MOSFETs and we're going to use these with the arduino to drive loads that the arduino would not be capable of driving itself now I should mention this is not the only way to interface things to the Arduino and today we are going to be concentrating on DC voltage loads not AC in order to use AC there are a different technique and I will be covering that in a future video but today we're gonna be driving DC loads with transistors so let's start off by learning a bit about transistors let's take a look at bipolar Junction transistors and MOSFETs the first transistor was developed at the Bell Laboratories in Murray Hill New Jersey in 1947 and was patented in 1948 the 1956 nobel prize was awarded to john bardeen Walter Brattain and William Shockley for the discovery of the transistor effect transistors quickly replaced vacuum tubes and electronic devices integrated circuits like micro processors and microcontrollers use transistors transistors can be used for many things they're primarily used as amplifiers or switches we'll be interested in their use as switches today a BJT is a bipolar Junction transistor sometimes is called a bipolar transistor or simply a transistor there are two main types of bipolar Junction transistors the NPN and the PNP these transistors have three leads the base the emitter and the collector here's a circuit with an NPN transistor which is a type that you'll encounter the most often you'll notice that we have a low current source and then a high current and high voltage source that is driving a load on the other side of the transistor we'll apply a low current to the base of the transistor this will switch the transistor on allowing a high current to flow through the collector and emitter in a sense when the transistor is on it behaves a lot like a diode a MOSFET is a metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor there are two main types of MOSFETs the end channel and the p-channel MOSFETs also have three leads the gate the drain and the source here's a circuit using an end candle MOSFET which is a type that you'll encounter the most often notice this time that we have a low voltage source as well as the same high voltage and current source with a high current load on the other side of the mosfet when we apply a low voltage to the gate of the MOSFET it turns on it then displays a very low resistance between the drain and the source in a sense you can think of a MOSFET as being a switchable low value resistor bjts and MOSFETs are available in many case styles the pin outs differ between devices so make sure to check your spec sheets before wiring yours in powered devices require heat sinks in order to achieve their rated maximum z' so make certain to provide adequate heat sinking bear in mind that powered devices have one lead connected to the case you'll need to know that especially if your heatsink is going to be connected to ground now let's take a look at a few transistors that I have in my parts drawers so I've opened up a few of my parts drawers and brought a few transistors down just for you to look at now this is a combination of different NPN and PNP bipolar transistors some fats and gay fats a number of different types of devices most of them are fairly common ones what I wanted to show you was the different packages you could get transistors in now these packages have names I'm going to kind of go by memory so hopefully I won't get these wrong but I believe these are what are called tio 92 packages over here and let's see if you can see one of these over here you'll notice it's got a flat side I'm hoping you can see that and a rounded side and that's how you identify the two sides the writing is on the flat side and then you'll have to look at the spec sheet to see which is the base emitter and collector because there is no standard between transistors for that so you can find two transistors in the same package with a different pin out these two particular ones over here these are 2n 2904 s and these are two and 3904 s and 3906 s what's interesting about these two is first of all they're two of the most common transistors that you're going to find anywhere they've been around for decades and secondly these are what they call complementary pairs these are NPN and these are PNP but they have basically the same specifications otherwise and you'll find complementary pairs are used a lot in analog circuits such as audio amplifiers and oscillators where they need both negative and positive side and they'll use both NPN and PNP transistors so all of these are in teo 92 type packages this big package over here this is what I believe they call a tio 66 or a to3 I think it has two different names and in this kind of package you'll only see two leads and you'll see that the case is connected I believe usually to the collector of the transistor and that's one thing to note is that these are obviously power transistors from the size they are and when you bolt something like this down to a heatsink which you're going to want to do to get the maximum performance you have to remember that one side is actually connected to one of the leads in fact that's how you connect to it so if your heatsink is grounded you could end up shorting something out depending on your circuit design and usually we use things like mica insulators to connect them on to heat sinks while insulating them electrically the mica insulator will allow the heat to transfer there's other materials other than mica that they use nowadays I'm kind of old school as far as that goes this is a very common package for a power transistor it's called a to-220 in fact the ones that we're going to use today which are the ones over here are in a to-220 package and again the heatsink side of the package will be connected to one of the leads of the transistor and so once again when you mount this you have to make certain to either isolate your heatsink from anything else or to use some form of an insulator you have to be very careful if you're using a number of these transistors and you want to put them all under the same heatsink again you have to remember this is electrically connected to part of the transistors but this is just sort of an assortment for you of the different packages that you can get transistors and MOSFETs in now here's a look at the transistor that we are going to be using today the ti p120 it's in a to-220 package and so it basically has a tab on the top over here that you can mount to a heatsink now electrically the tab is connected to the central lead so keep that in mind when you're placing your heat sink make certain that you don't ground the heat sink or that you use an insulator between the heat sink and the transistor the pin outs of it is are as follows this pin over here on this side on the left side is the base the center pin is the collector again that's the one connected to the tab and the emitter is the third pin over here and this is the transistor we'll be using in our experiment so let's take a quick look at the spec sheet for that transistor now now here's a specification sheet for the TI P 120 and as you're gone as you can see by scrolling down there is a lot of information here some of it you'll need to know some of it you can probably ignore especially for the purposes that we're going to be using the transistor for an interesting thing about this transistor is it's a Darlington transistor and a Darlington transistor actually has two bipolar transistors in the same package first one provides additional gain and improved current capabilities and so this is a high gain transistor now you'll notice it says it has a complimentary transistor if you recall from when we looked at the transistors earlier that means that there would be a PNP transistor that would be the electrical equivalent of this one and you would use that in something like an audio amplifier output where you needed both an NPN and PNP rather than go through all the specifications here I will just show you some of the key ones that you will need to know the current gain is something that you might want to know and it's typically about 1,000 the collector emitter voltage and collector base voltage are 60 volts and so that's going to be well within the range of what we're going to be using the collect continuous collector current is 5 amperes and the peak load is 8 hab peers and that of course is an important spec when you're hooking it up to other devices another thing to know is that the base current is a maximum of 120 milli amperes which should be no problem for us and that allows you to select a resistor that you're going to be using on the base because remember that bipolar transistors are current driven as a pose the MOSFETs with your voltage driven and so you'll find a spec sheet for pretty well every transistor there is out there and so if you need to do any transistor substitutions you can take the spec sheet of the one that you're trying to substitute and compare it to the original one and see how they match up and that way you can select another transistor if you don't happen to be able to get this particular one although the TI P 120 is one of the more common transistors now this is the MOSFET that we're going to be using in our experiment today this is a very popular MOSFET it's an N channel power MOSFET it's an IRF 5 to 0 and you can see it here in a to-220 package and in this package the pinout is as follows it's got the gate on this side on the far left side the drain in the center and the source on the right side now you can also get this I RF 5 to 0 as part of a very popular module and I've got one of these modules here as well the module this makes it simpler to wire up to the Arduino and to wire to a high-voltage high-current load and power supply on this side and I'm going to use some of these modules in my design today but if you don't have the modules you can just use the to-220 package IRF 5 to 0 you'll need an extra resistor that's already included on the module now let's take a look at the spec sheet for the IRF 5 to 0 here's the specification sheet for the RF five to zero MOSFET now this is the MOSFET that is on the module that I'm going to be using but if you're not using a module and you want to use a discrete MOSFET this will come in handy now one of the handiest things it's going to show you is the pin out you've got the gate the drain and the source and they're illustrated over here in the to-220 package keep in mind that the drain is also connected to the tab of the package and so as you can see from the circuit if you were to ground that you probably would have serious problems and so bear that in mind if you're adding heat sink to your device otherwise it's similar to the last spec sheet in that it has a lot of specifications them that you probably just don't need to know some of them work you're actually quite useful I'll go over once again the primary specifications of this that's an n-channel power MOSFET it has a continuous drain current of 9.2 amperes and so that's quite a bit of current that this thing can handle now keep in mind these ratings always assume that you have heat sink the device drain to source breakdown voltage so between here and here the drain and the source you've got a breakdown voltage of a hundred volts so it isn't going to handle more than a hundred volts and you'd be wise to keep it much much lower than that the drain to source resistance is zero point two seven ohms and so when this thing is on it's only going to offer zero point two seven ohms of resistance and that's why the MOSFET is so efficient and why it will dissipate far less heat than the equivalent bipolar transistor when dissipating the same load ok the gate threshold voltage is four volts maximum and that's a very important specification when you're trying to use this with logic circuits now this is not necessarily the best MOSFET to use of logic circuits but it'll work with a 5 volt Arduino because with 4 volts maximum means you need at least 4 volts into the gate to turn this on however if you're using a 3.2 volt Arduino or Raspberry Pi it may not be sufficient and there are other MOSFETs that would be more suited to the job another thing is the rise and fall time of 30 nanoseconds and 20 nanoseconds if you're pulsing things or if you were to use this as part of an audio amplifier that would be an important specification and so there you go the specs for the power MOSFET that is on the module that we're going to be using the IR F 5 to 0 all right now we're finally ready to start with our experiments and for the first one we are going to be using lead transistor I just showed you the TI P 120 power Darlington and we're going to be using it in order to drive this now this is just a 6 volt Lantern and it uses an incandescent bulb so it takes a reasonable amount of current you could not drive this directly from your Arduino and so we're going to connect the transistor up to the Arduino and simply create an on/off switch now technically we don't really need to have an Arduino for this but this is really more just to illustrate how you would connect the transistor to the Arduino to drive a simple load so let's go and take a look at that for our first experiment I'll be using a TI P 120 power transistor you can use an equivalent transistor if you'd like I'm also using an Arduino Uno a six volt incandescent light bulb and a six volt battery is my power source you can use a different load and power source if you wish don't exceed 40 volts though I also have a push-button switch a 10k resistor and a 2.2 K resistor I'll start by connecting pin 9 of the Arduino to the base of the TI p120 transistor through the 2.2 K resistor we then connect the Arduino z' ground to the emitter of the transistor we also connect the negative side of the battery to the ground of the Arduino we connect the positive side of the battery to one side of our resistive load the other side of our load goes to the collector of the transistor pin 3 of the Arduino is connected to one side of the push-button switch that same side of the switch is also connected to the 10k resistor whose other side is connected to 5 volts the 10k resistor is a pull-up resistor finally the other side of the switch is connected to ground and this completes our wiring now here's the sketch that we're going to be using with our transistors switch demonstration and it's a very very simple sketch we start off by defining out pin which is the output pin on pin 9 this is the one that connects to the 2.2 K resistor and then to the base of the transistor then the button pin the pin from the push button is on pin 3 and this is the pin that's held high with the 10k resistor we also define an integer called button Val and that just holds the value of the push-button and then we'll go into the setup and we'll set up the out pin as an output and the button pin is an input and we'll also do a digital write to the output and set it low just to make certain that the transistors off when we go into the loop now we go into the loop and the first thing we do is we read the push-button value with a digital read on the button pin and we assign that to the button value now that's either going to be high or low now remember if normally will be high if nothing's happening to the push-button because the resistor will be pulling it high so if the button value is high the button hasn't impressed we just make certain we're still writing a low to the transistor and then we believe by 20 milliseconds as a form of debouncing and we go and do it again however if the button value is low then the button has been pressed and what we're going to do is turn on a lamp on for five seconds so we'll do a digital write to the output pin and we'll send it high which to turn on the transistor because it will let current flow through that resistor and then we'll delay that by five seconds and then we'll turn it low to turn everything off and then we'll go back and do the loop over again so again a very simple sketch let's go and take a look at it now alright here's our experiment number one all set up now this is our six volt lamp in the six volt battery that's driving the lamp of course we've got our Arduino over here and on the solderless breadboard if you can see it at the back here we have our TI p120 power transistor the power Darlington down in front of it is the 2.2 K current limiting resistor and over here I've got my push button and the 10 K pull-up resistor and on this breadboard I've got the red rail over here tied to the 5 volts of the Arduino and the blue one tied to ground now this yellow wire is the one that goes to pin 9 Arduino to control the transistor I'm going to remove it from the Arduino for a moment I'm going to tie it up to the positive rail and as you can see our light is lighting because I've allow current to flow through the current limiting resistor into the base of the transistor and it is turned it on and has allowed the current the flow to light the light up now one thing I want you to notice is how bright the light is right now I'm going to disconnect it from the transistor for a moment and I'm going to just put it back on the negative rally because as you can see that's a lot brighter and the reason for the difference is the voltage dropped the 0.7 of a volt that we're getting through this transistor that's enough to cause a notable difference in the brightness of the light so that's one reason why bipolar transistors aren't necessarily the best and you know let's put that back and that should be my light okay just put that back on pin nine I'll just reset my all right cool you know and we'll try it out we'll press the button and as you can see the light goes on now it should stay on for five seconds and it's off try it again and there it goes and so we have a time delay light switch that we've created which is admittedly a very simple application but now as you can see you can control this lamp this six volt lamp with an Arduino so you could really use the Arduino to write any kind of sketch to do basically anything to control this lamp so it's a very useful technique to know now as you can see that was a very simple circuit and it did the trick it was able to turn on and off the light when we wanted to but the light we're using is what we would call a simple basic and resistive load however there are other types of DC loads that you might want to drive and one of them is this this is a small motor now the difference with a motor and a solenoid and some of devices as they are inductive loads they have a coil inside them or several coils inside them and what happens when you power an inductive load up is that a reverse or back EMF is created this is a voltage of the opposite polarity and when you first apply power this voltage appears on the circuit very briefly however it is there long enough to potentially destroy your transistor and so you need to do something about that now the most common way of handling an inductive load is to use a diode in order to absorb that reverse EMF and that's exactly what we're going to be doing so we're going to hook this motor up to an Arduino we're going to also hook up at empty ometer up to it so that we can control the motor speed and we're going to have a diode in our circuit to absorb the reverse EMF so let's go take a look at that right now so here's the hook-up for our next experiment as with the previous experiment we'll start with a TI P 120 power Darlington transistor and an Arduino Uno we'll also be using a small six volt DC motor you can use a 12 volt motor if you live I have a power supply for my six volt DC motor again you can think that the 12 volts if you need to I also have a diode I used a 1 n 4 0 0 4 which is a common rectifier diode you'll need a 2.2 K resistor and a potentiometer I used a 10k linear pot but any value from 5 K above will work we'll start by connecting the ground from our Arduino to the emitter of the TI P 120 we'll also connect the negative side of our battery to the ground of the Arduino we'll connect pin 9 of the Arduino to the base of the TI P 120 through the 2.2 K current limiting resistor we'll connect the positive of the six volt power source to one side of the motor and to the cathode of the diode note that the cathode is the side with the stripe on it it is very important to get this oriented correctly we'll connect the other side of the diode and the motor to the collector of the transistor and finally we'll connect the potentiometer we'll connect one side to five volts the other side to ground and the wiper of the pot to analog input a zero and this completes our wiring now this is a sketch that we're going to be using to control our motor and as you'll see it's a very simple sketch as well we're going to start off by defining out pin as being pin 9 and that's the pin that connects to the transistor through the 2.2 K current limiting resistor we also define pot in as being a zero that's the input from the potentiometer and speed Val this holds the value of the speed that we're going to be passing back to the transistor to control the speed of the motor now in our setup we set up our pin as being an output using a pin mode command how we go into our loop now in the loop speed val is assigned the value of an analog read of the pot in now that's the pin a zero and so that value is going to give us a value of 0 to 1023 because of the 10 bit analog to digital converter in the Arduino we'll use a map command to get that down to a value of 0 to 255 and then we'll just write that out to the transistor with an analog write command which will give pulse width modulation to the output pin at the speed value I'll add a small delay and then start the loop again so a very simple sketch let's go see it controller motor and so here's our motor control demo ready to go now of course I've got my battery back over here powering the motor and I've got a small DC gear motor attached to this wheel and we're going to spin it around here's my potentiometer in my Arduino of course and then back here my T IP 120 and here is my diode y1 n400 for rectifier diode now it's very important again to make certain that the line looked as the cathode is connected to the positive side now that may seem backwards to you but that's actually the reason it's there it's a take any of the reverse voltage that comes off of this motor when the motor spins and to absorb it and so that's what the diode seems to be connected backwards here but you have to get the polarity of that correct if you don't get that correct it's going to get very very hot very quickly otherwise the resistor over here my current limiting resistor and then of course to line up to pin nine of my Arduino and you saw the potentiometer it's just connected to the ground than five volts in the Arduino and to the analog a zero input so a pretty simple circuit and a very simple sketch and let's just watch it work both scenes right now that convinced the bounds to a low speed and so seems to work quite well we're controlling the motor with pulse width modulation sent out to the base of the transistor and once again the motor is something that uses current and voltage the arduino couldn't handle directly so you could use this technique with bigger motors and four transistors and other than just having a simple potentiometer of course this could all be part of a simple robot circuit now we don't have any method here of reversing the rope the motor that would require an h-bridge actually this is 1/4 of an h-bridge right here you could build an eighth thread go to transistors if you wanted to although usually it's a lot easier to see the commercial one but there you have it controlling a motor with the transistor and the diode to absorb the back EMF all right now that we've worked with bipolar transistors it's time to move on to MOSFETs now I'm going to be using those little modules that I showed you but you could use the discrete MOSFET as well I mean the modules have an IRF 520 MOSFET on them and you could pretty well use any power MOSFET that has a logic level input now not all of them accept logic level inputs on a gate so make sure that the one did you pick does now these are very easy to hook up because as you recall MOSFETs are voltage driven and not current driven so you literally disconnect them right up to the Arduino now we're going to be needing three of these for this project and that's one of the reasons I chose the module this to simplify the wiring a bit because what we're going to be doing is driving an LED strip light an RGB one now this is a conventional LED strip light as opposed to the programmable or addressable ones and so we basically have a red green and blue line and they require 12 volts on each tour drive the LEDs and a fair amount occur because this is a five meter long strip light and so we're going to use the MOSFET to drive each of the sections we're also going to add a few potentiometers on to our circuit so we can control the brightness of the red green and blue so let's go and take a look at that right now now here's how we're going to hook up our MOSFET experiment now I'm going to be making use of very commonly available MOSFET modules which have the pin outs that you see illustrated here however if you look you can use a discrete MOSFET instead here's the equivalent wiring of the module a couple of things to note first of all the MOSFET is an IRF five to zero which is a very common MOSFET second you'll note that the VCC is not actually connected to anything and so you don't need to use it when using the module either now will notice that the signal input is connected to the gate of the MOSFET it's also connected to one side of a 1k resistor which goes to ground now on the module there's an additional 1k resistor with an LED going to ground I'm not filling that over here the two grounds are connected together and are also connected to the source lead on the IRF five to zero the drain of the MOSFET is connected to the v- output terminal the V N and V Plus terminals are connected together and so you can use this circuit instead of the modules if you wish now I'm going to be using three of the modules I'll also need a 12-volt power supply with sufficient current for my RGB LED strip and of course I'll have an Arduino Uno I'll need three potentiometers I use 10k linear taper pots and one is the red one is for green and one is for blue we'll start by connecting the ground from the Arduino to one side of each of the potentiometers will also connect that same ground to the ground terminal on the MOSFET modules we'll connect the 5 volts in the Arduino to the other side of the potentiometers will connect the wiper of the red potentiometer to analog input a 0 from the green pot to input a 1 and from the blue potentiometer to analog input a 2 Digital output pin three will be connected to the signal input on one of the MOSFETs pin five will be connected to the signal input on the second MOSFET and pin six to the third MOSFET will take the negative side of our power supply and connect it to the ground pins on the MOSFETs the positive output of the 12 volt power supply will be connected to the common positive on the RGB LED strips will also connect it to the ven pin on all three modules the v- pin on the first module will be connected to the red connection on the RGB strip v- on the second module to the green connection on the RGB LED strip and the v- on the third module to the blue connection on the LED strip and this completes our wiring now this is the sketch that we'll be using to drive our LED strip and it's a very simple sketch as you'll see it requires no external libraries now first we define the output pins that we've connected to the gate of the MOSFETs and those are these three pins which we're going to call a red pin green pin and blue pin now if you wish to use different pins keep in mind that you'll need to use pins that are capable of pulse width modulation pins 3 5 and 6 are capable of pwm and the Arduino has three additional pins that are also capable of PWM that is if you're using an Arduino Uno then we define the input through the potentiometers on analogs pin a 0 1 & 2 so that's red control green control and blue control then the variables that will hold the values that we get from the pots and then send out to the PWM we're going to call them red value green value and blue value setup we'll set up those MOSFET pins as outputs so these pinmode commands to do that we're also setting up a serial monitor and the serial monitor is optional but it's just a troubleshooting tool in case something goes wrong you can see what values we are sending out to the MOSFETs then into the loop now in the loop we do an analogue read of each of the controls and assign it to their respective values so for example the read Val is an analog read of the read control and the other two are the same for their respective controls then we map those to a range of 0 to 255 remember that the potentiometers are going to give us values of 0 to 1023 because of the 10 bit analog to digital converter in the Arduino helm we need to set that to 0 to 255 pulse width modulation so we just do that with a map command and then we write the PWM out to the pins with analog write commands and then we'll write everything out to our serial monitor so we can see what values we are sending out to the pins and then after adding a slight delay we repeat the loop over and over and over so again a very very simple sketch so let's go take a look at it in action now and here is our demonstration and all of its glory now I've got my LED strip light over here as you can plainly see most of it is still coiled up here this is a 5 meter long strip for those of you who don't understand the metric system that's about 16 feet you can see the modules of god over here on my breadboard the 3 potentiometer isn't of course mattered we know uno and if you look at the serial monitor you can observe the values on the pots as I turned them and you can of course watch the LEDs as they change color as I apply different amounts of red green and blue to them and really it's a very simple display but it's one that you can watch for a long time because of all the wonderful colors that you can get out of the LED strip now one thing I noticed is I have been fiddling around with this and I have placed my finger on a couple of the MOSFETs and there's really no appreciable heat on these at all in fact there's more heat on the actual coil of LEDs over here than there is on the MOSFETs so this de straights also the efficiency of the MOSFETs because it does take a fair amount of current to twelve volts in order to drive all of these LEDs at full blast and yet the MOSFETs stay very cool during it so all in all I think a very successful and entertaining demonstration so this brings us to the conclusion of today's video I hope that you enjoyed it and that you now know how to hook up high current DC devices to your microcontroller now as I mentioned at the beginning of the video hooking up AC devices is a bit of a different story it requires different techniques the things I showed you today are only for DC but I will be doing a video on hooking up AC devices very soon and the best way to find out about that video if you haven't already is to be subscribed to the YouTube channel and that way if you subscribe and hit the little bell notification you'll get notified when that video is created if you haven't subscribed already just hit the subscribe button below the video or click on little robot in the corner and he'll do the job for you if you need some more information about transistors you'll find an accompanying article on the drone bot workshop comm website and there's a length of that article right below this video while you're on the website if you haven't already please subscribe to the newsletter yes there's a lot of subscribing to do but the newsletter is my way of keeping in touch with you it's not a sales letter it's just my way of letting you know what's going on in the workshop and if you want to discuss MOSFETs or transistors or anything else electronic a great place to be doing that is drone bomb workshop forums and you'll find a link to the forum below the video as well and you'll find all sorts of wonderful intelligent people on the forum who'd be happy to discuss just about anything electronic with you so head over to the forum and get in on the conversation and so until next time please take care of yourselves and I hope to see you again very soon here in the drone bot workshop good bye for now [Music]

Channel: DroneBot Workshop

Views: 712,702

Keywords: MOSFET, BJT, Power Transistor, Arduino Transistor, Arduino MOSFET, n channel, arduino uno

Id: IG5vw6P9iY4

Length: 40min 50sec (2450 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 10 2019