Trumpeter's 1/32 Me 262 (Full Build)

hello um first thing i want to do is thank everybody for their nice comments it's very much appreciated i'm sorry don't get back to everybody but i do read them all good or bad so while 262 i still have that craving to do a metal finish on an airplane then what i was going to do was what they numbered 7-eleven i think you all know the famous shot of the american with shades on smiling through the cockpit flying through the air that was my initial choice but as the build went on i came for some more references and one they numbered 712 so added a bit of color to the overall metal finish so i thought that'll do me and that's the one i went for the kit it's weird if you were to look at the hurricane parks and the 262 parks both the same manufacturer look at them you think they'll come from two different companies the surface detailing 262 is beautiful and refined whereas a hurricane is a bit more in your face although i'm saying that i like that if you like using your washes it's great to have that sort of recessed detail the 262 was just a little too subtle for my liking no real major issues with the kit other than the tyres and the hubs and the canopy which was strange uh with the holidays coming upon us i do have time off work but i do want to chill out but i will try and fit a medium or small build in between now and the new year so i want to thank you for watching i do hope to see you for the next video so i'm just going to show you the clear parts first on closer inspection they're not brilliant there's a slight mottle effect on the external surface internally it's nice and smooth beautiful finish but externally it just makes the surface slightly cloudy the engine a cells are the same now i'm hoping a couple of coats of johnson's pledge similar johnson's clear may rectify this and improve these parts we shall see you can see the cannon shroud here it's useless it's a waste of time what they have next for this kit is the surface detail it's lovely and refined there's a fair amount of parts this kit which is nice of course we get the obligatory box for the goodies we are beautiful crystal clear canopy parts we get a fret for the harnesses we also get an option of metal parts or plastic parts for the landing struts some rubbery bits and we also get two schemes within this kit and also the decal sheet which looks quite nice looks quite busy so i've detached and cleaned up most of the parts a few more in a tray somewhere else as well uh as i've gone i have glued some of the part so this is two pieces this hub the cannon which comes in three pieces i've glued those uh the tail surfaces things like that i've glued them might as well at this stage now still left some of the smaller parts on the frame or gates two reasons for that is that i may not be able to identify some of these smaller parts on the illustration so i still need them attached to the numbers the second reason is is that i'll probably lose them they're that small so it would be safer for me to detach these as and when i need them now i've said this before and i'll say it again this really isn't the way to go so play safe and detach the parts as and when you need them so the first i'm going to tackle are these clear parts so i've just got one side of the fuselage and one engine they sell to do now i've cleaned these parts thoroughly with detergent and left them dry overnight under cover i don't need dust settling on these surfaces i'm going to use this stuff because it's like water i'm going to apply it very thinly now i could put this through the airbrush but i've never done that and i'm never going to so i'm going to apply this stuff with a chisel brush and hope for the best so i gave this a second coat and it's improved it considerably i'm quite happy with the surface it could be better but it's better than it was now that i'm happy with the external surface i've been toying the idea picking out the detail internally i'm taking a chance here i'm going to use tamiya's panel line wash and hope that it works and i don't make any mistakes now i can use a bit of white spirits to clean up here and there but not too much otherwise it will fog these clear parts so let's jump in and let's go for it um i'm not too sure it's a bit in your face at the moment so i'm hoping once the model's finished it will turn this down a bit i'm going to do the engineer cells but i'm going to thin the tamiya panel line wash down so it's not a stark so i'm going to make a start on both engines i'm going to start with a visible engine first you can see i've already made up some small assemblies it goes together quite well could do a bit more pipe work a bit more detail but hey how just gonna have the starter motor housing now you see this big bulky part that attaches to it i'm gonna leave it off as you can see here it looks awful in that transparent part last part is a rear nozzle but i'll leave that off for access of painting at the back here now for the non-visible engine you can see i've quickly knocked this up no need to have any finesse here it's just going to add a bit of strength and it's also going to help locate the rear nozzle and the starter motor housing i can close both sides up with the engine a cell but i'll be leaving the rear housing and the front intake off once again for ease of painting at both ends so i'm making a start on the visible engine i'm giving an overall coat of vallejo aluminium this stuff has to be applied very lightly and letting each coat dry i then masked off the combustion chamber area and painted tamiya black next is the compressor area using citadel paints i've created a greyish blue mix almost like a wash first thing i do is wet the surface only lightly and then using a stippling motion applied the colour once it's applied i use a dry brush and blend it all in once again using the stippling motion still using citral paints i'm giving the engine oil area a yellowish wash now for exhaust externally on the engine i'm using graphite lead and a great and brown pastel so i'm just picking up the dust the dry brush and then burnishing it in on the surface i'm still using citadel paints i've created a grayish color reasonably thick but not too thick and then i'm applying this by brush it's just easy to get into all those nooks and crannies now i always keep my instructions from every kit i build and i was using the tamiya 262 as a bit of a cross reference and i noticed that the exhaust plug driveshaft was missing the components at either end of there but there's no driveshaft it was only then with a heavy heart that i noticed this area here was completely missing now being a fairly notable assembly i had to build it from scratch so with everything thoroughly dry now i'm just going to apply a panel wash i'm using my own custom mix of tamiya black and brown now let this go off in other words just dry slightly and then using some white spirits just fade off the edges so i'm just going to muck up the hole now using some floors dark dirt feed it into the fan blades let it go off slightly and then with a slightly damp brush just pull it out so i've left with these streaks now everything's really dry i'm going to be adding all the bits and gubbins to the engine now i do feel i've let you all down here by not adding any of the external pipe work or cables an engine in this scale i should have added the more salient pipes at least so i'm sorry about that there really is no excuse i just didn't have the inclination to do this life's too short so i'm gonna close the engine now i'm using tamiya extra thin very sparingly and very carefully so now the glue's thoroughly dried i've decided by brush some paint along the seams i just want to see how much work i'm going to be dealing with visually so using the 600 grit paper i'm going to try and keep the sanding as localized as i can to the seam so after rinsing off any loose grit on that surface i've used my boots nail technician sanding stick to polish up the seam i can't tell you what grades they are because they're all numbered number three up to six so now i'm happy that the surface is blemish free i've rinsed any dirt and grit off left it to dry thoroughly and then i'm going to get one coat of johnson's pledge a very thin coat so now the first cut is dried i'm happy to say it doesn't need another coat i think it does the job so all that's left to do now is glue the other two parts using tami's extra thin so i'm making starting the fuel tanks two of them are made up of three parts one are made of two parts not a bad fit no filling required but there are some steps to sand flush my first coat is tamiya white ready for the off yellow now luckily i still had some mix left over from the tamiya 262 i made as a good starting point for the mix you can only use x8 or xf3 mixed with xf5 the yellow is then masked off and the black applied then everything's sealed in with a satin varnish the last thing that i did was add a tamiya panelline wash and use some white spirits to blend it all in no point going overboard with these details inside you're only going to see the basic colors through that transparent part of the fuselage any subtleties added here will be lost so next i'm going to tackle the cockpit area and these are all the parts get supplied with the kit and it's quite nicely detailed actually but as always the bigger the scale always make sure i get a replacement set for the consoles but when i go through the post not only the nice consoles but i get a harness set and some other pedals so not only that looking at all those little bits there it looks quite a comprehensive set and i can guarantee i won't be adding half those little bits i found some areas of the instructions a bit unclear the side console is no problem just send the detail off but they've got the front console all in red do you send that all off i don't think so so all i've done is add a bit of plastic card inside that trench and that should give the front console something secure to seat on you see i already made a starting little pedals not expecting any upgrade with them they look quite nice as they are but i should do the rudder pedals first and if they turn out okay i shall snip these plastic ones off next i'm going to start on that very comprehensive harness i'm going to clean all the little tabs off and then luckily this side of the instructions are fairly clear you can see how they're showing you how to bend this strap to feed through the buckle and this does work a tree i use the drawing pin for the bend and once i was happy with the position just bent it back straight i was a bit worried about doing all this bending especially with the pain i was scared it might all crack off but thankfully it seems quite durable so that's the harness is finished bit of patience follow the instructions they work a tree now they look great all they're nice and flat i've got a horrible feeling that when i start bending these i'm going to be in for a world of pain we shall see another thing i want to talk about is the revi site you get a nice flat piece of etched fret with loads of folding involved and some of the folds fall back on themselves so it's quite complicated they don't show you how you do that they just show you already folded so they asked you to chop off the whole block on the plastic part and then add the upgrade to the uh what's left of the plastic to me that seemed a very weak point of attachment so what i did on the edge part is cut the bottom tongue out and then literally put that assembly over the plastic part bearing in mind that the plastic part has had all its raised detail sanded off so i'm going to start painting this tub and i've already painted the aluminium silver whatever you want to call it on the outside i've done this first because i don't do all that cockpit detail and then paint the silver and fine i've got bleed through of silver particles so i'm going to paint the first dark gray and it made up a mixture of these two colors so it'd be a slightly darker grain it should be once that's dry i should use this color spray directly from above just to create a highlight next i'm going to dry brush with mr hobbies aluminium and the last thing i'm going to do using citadel paint is paint that leather seat the last thing to do is i've masked off the edge of the seat i'm just going to dry brush some xf 88 dark yellow 2. so my last thing i did paint wise was add a gloss to that leather back seat once that thoroughly dried i added the harnesses on what a world of pain that turned out to be they look great all nice and flat as i said before but as soon as i started to bend or twist them into shape they start to come apart at the joints super is only so strong so it took quite a bit of effort to get to what you see here so so looking reasonably okay i left it because i spent more than enough time trying to sort this out and i ended up going backwards with it i almost told you the idea of using the trumpeter parts now i haven't added every bit photo etch that's been supplied as some of it was just silly i'm not going down that road so now it's all attached as far as i want to go i'm going to assemble all the parts now and get this cockpit finished so that's the copper aerial finished uh quite comprehensive set quite a lot of work some of it straightforward some of it was problematic but i don't know why there's just something missing about the whole cockpit area it's just not it's just not jumping out at me but i've had enough of it so i'm done with it so i'm going to get on with the cannons next so i'm giving the cannons a cut of tommy flat black and while i'm at it i'll paint the shoots as well the cannons will be sealed with some satin varnish and the shoots with some gloss varnish i'll pick the surface d to that with some graphite lead and for the shoots i'll use a silver pencil now all the canon bay areas have been given a coat of vallejo aluminium when using citadel paints i've made a very white bluey color i'll be using the same technique as i used on the engine so i'm applying this color on a wet surface and i'll blend it all in using the stippling motion then i'm going to pick out certain details by brush then using graphite again i'm going to pick out certain areas and burnish it in here and there last thing i'm going to apply is some tamayo panel line wash let it go off a bit and then blend it in using some white spirits next we can supply some nice decals for the four ignition boxes so that's all the parts supplied in the kit painted i can now assemble all this now you could add all sorts of things in this canon bay especially ignition needs they're quite prominent but that's up to the individual modeler it's your model you do what you want whatever floats your bow now this assembly is very tricky you get one pin for each cannon to okay and the top cannons are held in by a slot which sounds secure but it's not it makes the cannon float everywhere i also have problem with the shoots what i did with the shoots in the end was clip off the tab attaching it to the cannon in the end i use the front bulkhead to try and secure the cannons in place line them all up while the glue was still soft with that bulkhead or frame in place i could then line up the cannons and the shoot boxes with a bit more confidence now it's probably me but i found the assembly of all this cannon bay quite tricky thankfully in the end it all seated properly but it is one of those assemblies where you could do an extra pair of hands so i'm going to try and finish off the rest of the internal parts must have had a coat of vallejo aluminium and i'm going to go through the same procedure as i did with the engine so i've created a light whitish wash using citadel paints apply that on and then blend it all in with a stippling motion next using citadel paints again i'm going to create some light tones or shades i don't want anything too in your face i just want to break up that slab of gray so light coats let it dry and if i think it needs another coat then i will do if not then great we're done next i'm going to pick out all the detail using washes the main one's going to be a water-based one that i've custom made now with all that process thoroughly dry i'm going to dry brush some white oil paint very little on the end of the brush here very little as i said before it's better to build up and try and take it off so i've just shown you the basic process i do go backwards and forwards i i'll add a wash like the water-based wash but i may go back and add a bit of enamel or even tamiya wash here and there the golden rule is knowing when to stop otherwise it'll just look like a kiddies paint palette uh just one quick thing i want to mention is that looking at the photographs there seems to be some linkage missing from the control column that sits underneath now i don't know where this is going to be visible so i've just made it from bits of plastic card and plastic rod very quickly it's nothing special to look at but if i think after i've built up the undercarriage bay that it will be visible i'll add it but for now i'll just leave it off so i'm making a start i'm adding all the internal parts to the side of the fuselage and this electronics rack isn't a very secure fitting the attachments are a bit vague so it will be the worry that when i close the fuselage half's up that this thing might come loose and rattle around inside fingers crossed now i knew this was going to be issue but i did nothing about it the rear tank has two little tabs but there are no tab holes on the rear frame so i'm not too sure how it sits because the instructions are useless they don't show you not properly anyway they just vaguely point somewhere but i should have sorted this out before i did paint golden rule always dry fit test fit make sure there's no amendments needed before you add paint it's a rule i break every time i never learn so i've drilled three holes out where i can where they can't be seen glued three bits of plastic rod in place and then i've added some white paint on the ends just so i can transfer those positions onto the rear tank now this is still gonna be a hit and miss these positions i only get one go at this so now i'm happy with that the transfer positions i'm gonna drill these out and then glue it to position so now i can add the two main assemblies luckily they come with big lugs and the position and the fit is very good i'm not going to glue them in permanently but i'm just going to a bit of pva glue just to hold them into place when the fuselage halves come together they'll be a secure fit anyway all i need to do now is add some tamiya extra thin along that seam so i'm going to turn up the fuselage next as you can see i've painted along the seam here i've done this because the parts are transparent and got a clue what's going on how good or bad that join is so the paint does two things it shows me that and it'll also tell me that when it's being sanded all off that the surfaces should be flush next the assembly of the wings so i'm just dry fitting all the flaps and slats and the fit's pretty good actually just a bit of trimming here and there so i'm ready to attach the wing assembly to the fuselage and it wouldn't go there was a clash somewhere and i think it's a fuel tank and the spa so the first thing i do i'm gonna go at champion a bit of plastic off on the spa if that doesn't work i may have to take the tank out or do something with it not ideal so there's a lot to and throwing we're fitting this in position i eventually got it to seat not brilliantly but it's okay i don't know why it won't sit properly it could be a bad fit it could be something else that's clashing either way i'm not going to take the wing off with issues i had putting it on i'm scared i may break something so i'm going to glue this while it's in position next i'm going to attach the engineer cells so i was going to add the other engine a cell the transparent one but i've decided to leave it off this will save me a lot of work so i have been test fitting it making sure i've got a nice clean fit thankfully the fit of this for whatever reason is a better fit than the other nasal now this means that i'm gonna have a hard demarcation line from the painted part to the transparent part which means i have to cross that over to the fuselage side so i don't know whether this is going to look odd or not i'll only find out at the very end when it's all peeled off by then it'll be all too late before i can decide where i'm going to have that demarcation i need to check all the areas that i've sanded the worst part was at the front here even though there was only a slight step from the wing to the fuselage it took a lot of filler to get a smooth transition from either par i've also lost a lot of detail so before i can add paint to test these areas i need to take all this crap off give the model a quick wipe down then mask off the side of the fuselage and decide what i'm going to show and what i'm going to hide so now i've got everything covered where i don't want paint to go hopefully hopefully i haven't missed anything i'm going to add a light gray on all the seams that i've sanded so after grey paint had dried i've attended to any imperfections in the seams and the areas of filler once those were attended to i've wiped the whole surface down with a damp cloth and then gone over with an airbrush with some compressed air just to blow any dust off i'm now ready to apply the main color to this assembly and all the other bits i've got loose so i've applied several light layers in fact i think it was more than that of ak's extreme metals matte aluminium why a few more layers of paint well because i've got the transparent parts the bare plastic parts and a few areas that are primed with paint where the sanding work was done and the transparent parts take a lot more coverage why didn't i prime the model i personally thought it might have been a lot more work i'd have had to prep the surface i sand it and polish it and with all that work and i've had to clean out all the detail full of crap so a few more light coats saves me all that work personal choice so i left this paint to dry for a day well dry ish and now i'm going to pick out the detail with some tamiya panelline wash in a controlled way before that panel line wash dries thoroughly i'm going to take the excess off using some odorless enamel thinners so apply the panel wash on the 262 and i've done it in small controlled sections for a simple reason i'm using a hot product on a hot product and while i was doing the panel lash and holding the model for a lengthy period of time in my position i could still feel that the paint was still slightly soft so i'm going to put this to one side now for at least a couple of days all to set properly and i can be getting on with other things one thing i'll be doing is the flaps and slats a slightly different tone so the flaps here i'm using a medium gray so the grey's subtle enough to stand out but not too much for the front slats i'm just going to add a tiny little bit of mr hobbies aluminium now while the 262 was drawn in the corner i had a slight change of heart there's a 262 with a code number 712 on it and it's got a slightly light green tail and the engine nasals are painted so that scheme grabbing my fancy you can see i've masked off the relevant areas first coat is going to be the blue sky blue rlm whatever you want to call it blue now i'm going to apply the light green i don't know whether it has an rlm number it means nothing to me i'm just going off color references so i'm not going to give it a heavy coat it's going to be a very light dusting with a blue dry i can now add the dark green so i've masked off all the wings this wasn't my original idea i was just gonna mask certain areas but in the end i ended up masking the whole of the wing area a very tedious and painful task and there's a little voice in my head saying is this worth it so the first thing i'm going to do is add mr hobbies aluminium sparingly here and there next is going to be some graphite powder once again just very sparingly added here and there then the last thing i'm going to do is add a white oil once again very little on the end of the brush here almost non-existent and the idea is hopefully is to dab this on and blend in those last two applications but in a haphazard motion i don't want it uniformed so i'm stippling i'm dragging and brushed across the surface using all sorts of techniques so i've peeled a bit of tape back so it looks a bit darker than i'd hoped but i might be able to cure that so next thing i need to do is take all this masking off with all those techniques added there'll be slight ridges along the edges there so i'm just going to flatten them and blend them in using a cloth so the next i'm going to do is tone down some of these harsh edges i'm going to use mrb's aluminium again very sparingly there's not much on the end of the brush here and then just dab and blend in those hard edges fuse large and engineer cell masked off i'm going to use the same materials except this time not so much in conjunction with each other so now that i'm reasonably happy with this i'm going to put to one side to dry thoroughly at least for a couple of days under cover so now everything's thoroughly dry next i'm gonna do is try and recreate these putty filler lines i'm assuming that's what they are i've seen some that look like a greenish hue but most ones i've seen are like a yellowish tin or a nicotine colour so the first thing we'll do is mix the colour using tamiya paints white yellow and this tang colour i'm not going to mix it with water i'm going to mix it with tamiya thinner that way it won't bead on the surface i'm creating a thinnish wash now i don't want to try and plaster this 262 with these putty lines i.e the wings i will leave them as they are i'm just going to concentrate on the fuse large it's from the main panel lines i just want to give an impression hopefully so i'm trying to be tidy but not too tidy don't be too neat so i'm going to do the rest of the lines off-camera so i've gone as far as i want to with this putty line interpretation while that's drying i'm gonna add a panel line wash to the engine a cell and the rear tail i'll be using the florey's black wash so with the excess wash all wiped off i'm going to add a bit of wear and tear to this paint surface i'm going to mask off some of the panel lines and then using a well worn sanding pad just fade off some of this paint so what i'm gonna do next doesn't really make any sense the whole point of this uh interpretation of putty filler is that you won't see any of the rivet detail all the panel lines but i'm going to pick it out again anyway from an artistic point of view that's my excuse anyway so i'm going to use the floors black wash so it looks okay to me i'll get on and do the rest so i've decided before i go on with anything else is to um start adding the markings to this 262. uh i was considering using the decal sheet supplied which is pretty good actually nice glossy sheen to it look like they go down well and the stenciling not overbearing just the right amount but because of limited markings on this 262 i thought it'd be a bit of a cop out so i'm gonna have a go i'm making my own stencils and painting them on so the first thing to do or first thing i did was find some reasonably good reference i had a couple of bits one of the side view and one from above so i scan those images in and create some artwork so once i was happy with the artwork i've printed it out and then i've cut it out to cross-reference against the model i ended up reducing the artwork for the top wing by five percent and the side fuselage artwork i think it was about 130 144 yeah that's reasonable it's okay a bit of retouching up here and there and there's a bit of overspray but other than that nothing major so now i've got one the rest of the markings next the canopy masked it all off first coat was a dark gray then a vallejo aluminium and then a couple of coats of flory's black wash letting each coat dry in between once it's dried thoroughly i've just gone over the top with my thumb just to take some of that black off it gives it a certain patina you could use a bit of silver and dry brush it on i think this looks better personally once i was happy with the amount of wear i gave it i sealed everything with satin varnish so i'm going to make a starting on the carriage and see i've already assembled some parts already i've also drilled a couple of holes in the hub there'll be a hose that comes out the center and then into the side here also one thing i've noticed on the photographs on the nose gear is that there's no scissor link so i'm going to go for it and i'm going to cut this off rightly or wrongly so i'm just bending some ordinary fuse wire for the hose for the hub make some brake lines for the wing under carriage so that's all the brake lines finished on the undercarriage just need to add paint so with all the undercarriage painted all i had to do was add these rubbery bits onto the hubs the nose wheel one went on reasonably okay but the main undercarriage was a nightmare a crowbar and a hammer may have helped in my haste i cut some of the plastic off and ended up making things worse it eventually went on the second hub i sanded most of the excess off even though i eventually got the tyres on i did take a lot of paint off so i'm hoping that i'm not going to end up with unbelievably stupid fitted shoes like that with the final assembly so before i start the final assembly i'm going to take this big plaster off hopefully there should be no issues and it should come off trouble free so there's a lot of parts of this kit considering it's quite small remember these are all external parts so i'm going to be showing all these parts being added just the prominent ones but if i feel there's something that's slightly different i will show you now for the slats the attachment points aren't very secure so i've added strips of plastic card just to give me a better bond to the leading edge now the campaign doors have to be in the art position i did try and close them but one of the gun shoots gets in the way i'd have to take it out or cut a chunk out of it so it's a shame really because it spoils the clean lines of the 262. as usual the undercarriage is a bit tricky the nosegear has a sturdy feel about it unlike the main gear so there we are all done good or bad model well that is down to the modeler at the end of the day although it's no beginner's model by any stretch of the imagination i would like to take some final shots of that beautiful shape with the canopy and the canon doors closed but for canned doors i would have had to mess around with the canon assembly and take bits off canopy my fault if i had to dry fitted it i'd have spotted the problem just taking less than a mil off that front windscreen assembly moving it forward slightly and they can appear with a shot flush but it is what it is one thing to keep me to mention all the way through this video but kept putting it off was adding weight it will be needed there's a number of areas you've got the chin areas underneath the magazine chutes although i missed the trick here i could have used the front fuel tank assembly that way i'd have had a housing for all the weight although because it's near the center of gravity it would require quite a bit more weight which brings me on to the next thing i ideally need to use the metal legs so i hope that the end results what's missing really is a couple american soldiers walking all over it so thank you for watching and i do hope to see you for the next video you

Channel: Greg's Models

Views: 62,025

Keywords: Me 262, airfix Me 262, trumpeter Me 262, battle of britain, building models, building plastic models, building the hawker hurricane, how to build plastic models, building airplanes, painting models, how to paint model planes, how to weather models, how to paint silver, Me 262 A-1a, Messerschmitt 262, building the Me 262, captured me 262

Id: 3uJHVkqfcWA

Length: 41min 44sec (2504 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 03 2021