Trashed $25.00 eBay Vintage Watch Needs a Lot of Work...

hello there and welcome back to another video here on wrist watch revival my name is marshall thank you so much for coming along this time on the bench well we've got a bit of a project on our hands here this time i've got this philip watch schodaphong it's from switzerland i don't know a whole lot about the brand itself it says automatic on it and i got this watch off of ebay for 25 now this is kind of what i dreamed of when i first started doing watch repair that i'd be able to find cool vintage watches for super cheap and then repair them and that is what we're gonna try to do with this one as you can see it is not in good shape it's missing the front crystal it's missing the hands the dial is just exposed and it also doesn't have a winding crown and stem and the case tube that those would go into is bent up let's take a look at the movement we've obviously bit off quite a bit here and if i can get this thing back to life i will be very happy about it because you know this is kind of what it's all about right you try to push yourself and see if you can't take something that's really kind of a piece of junk and get it back together as you can see it's got a nice signed rotor here on this movement this is uh as1361 i'll had to look it up but it's a movement that was fairly common i suppose for the era the era late 50s i'm thinking maybe 40s but probably late 50s and there we go we got the movement out of the case quite easily and also didn't have to take off the hands because they don't exist so we'll have to address that later let's take a look at the movement it is a non-runner as we call it in the business it is uh it won't run nothing no go can't wind it up anyway oh what is what is going on here though look at the is that oil on the bottom oh no that is just pools of oil on the underside of the dial uh okay this this could get a oh no there is just oil all over this movement oh no i think i know what happened i've heard of this before but i have to say it's the first time that i've experienced it first hand apparently there are some people in this world who feel that if a movement will not work and it's old that they can simply dunk it in watch oil the whole thing and that that will somehow fix it and i think that that's what we have on our hands here a movement that has just been outright dipped in oil hook line and sinker now that will do a couple of things it will make sure that the watch can't run it will absolutely lock that in this thing will not go i mean the parts are sticking in my tweezers because there's so much oil on them the other thing though is that it gives us some hope look at that you can actually see the oil in the screw hole just pooled in there it it's all over the balance which is by the way why it won't run among other reasons with all that oil on it but i have a watch cleaning machine of the professional variety and that means that we have a shot here to see what's actually wrong with this movement and try to get it running again but it is going to need a very very deep cleaning among other things so let's get the disassembly going this is an automatic watch and that of course means that the motion from your hand and your arm moving around actually swings that rotor that i took off at first and winds the watch for you if you're uh if you're watching this video and you're kind of going i don't even like watches that much why am i watching this don't worry you're not alone this happens all the time watches are way cooler than people remember and we're very happy to have you along if of course you're a watch geek like me and you're watching this well i don't need to explain to you why this is cool okay well i don't have the whining crown so i am going to try to let down the mainspring sort of manually by just jamming the click over and then just let it okay yeah there we go so i did actually manage to let down the main spring i i have found more and more oil the further that i've gone into this movement and the parts keep sticking to my tweezers because of it i just can't believe somebody would think yeah this is a good idea completely dunk the movement in oil and then put the dial back on too it's just baffles the mind i just can't get the parts to come off of my tweezers look at that can you see how much oil is on that it it is just drowned in it at least everything seems to be coming apart reasonably i probably should with that much oil look at that yeah so this thing's gonna need multiple runs through the watch cleaning machine that that's my prediction i mean i'm gonna have to it's you know it's a solvent and it needs to basically dissolve or somehow incorporate all of this oil take off the train wheel bridge to reveal the train of wheels underneath it and we've got a lot to do on this watch because the first order of business is going to be to get this thing running if it doesn't run then there's no point in in trying to replace the crown the winding stem the crystal clean up the dial any hands that kind of stuff okay yeah there's still oil on the other side of this bridge so it really did get absolutely everywhere you can see a bunch on the top of that center wheel as well okay so the barrel bridge can come off now and that will reveal the winding barrel that's actually where all the power for the watch is stored right in that big circular device there yep tons of oil under there too i think we figured out the problem here at least with this part of it the interesting thing is as we're kind of detectives right like you and i are trying to figure out what's wrong with this thing and then how to fix it but the the big question that we have is why did somebody decide to dunk this in oil right it probably wasn't running is why and that can be caused by any number of reasons there could be something broken within it it also could just be that it wasn't serviced in 40 50 60 years and it you know stopped because of that that happens too telefork just sticks to the pellet fork bridge here right so you know we don't know we we do know that somebody attempted to i don't even know if i can use the word service talking about what they did to this thing but you know they did attempt to get it running again in whatever way they could and that means that it wasn't running so we still have to keep our eye out and not assume that the only issue is the oil the oil is definitely stopping this that that is for sure but it could also be other things keyless works can come apart now oof yeah definitely getting some signs that this thing just needed a service anyway there's still the oil hasn't really dissolved all of the crusted on oil underneath like on the keyless works at least not all of it okay here's the motion works this is how you set your watch these are the gears that let you set your watch and then have the hands actually run now we're most of the way through the disassembly so that's good news and the keyless works can come apart now [Laughter] you know you have to change the cleaning solution on your watch cleaning machine ever so often and i think i have a feeling that i'm going to need to change the solution after i've done washing this thing okay setting lever setting lever screw are the last two parts of the uh keyless works to go a little bit stubborn but we got that out of there and now the setting lever will just fall down to the bench like so and it actually looks a little worn perhaps we'll have to see if that holds up that part can't actually get fairly worn and that leaves us with the main plate and now the barrel and we'll see what it looks like in here i don't even want to look this gets dirty on normal oh god oh god yeah that'll need to be cleaned now one little hint that we have here by the way is the main spring itself as you can see it's made out of carbon steel it's that kind of blued steel and that means it's pretty old like that puts this watch into the 40s probably maybe 50s like we had guessed based on the styling um but the spring actually looks like it's in fine shape but i'm gonna reuse it assuming it's not broken and there's more oil everywhere because obviously this i mean oil's a liquid right so it's gonna seep into every little corner of every little thing okay well with that we can put the parts into the cleaning baskets and then get it ready for the watch cleaning machine and like i said we're gonna have uh a few runs through look at my bench do you see all the oil that just fell just from having the parts sitting there i'm gonna get this cleaned up as we go over to the watch cleaning machine this is pretty bad um i'm really hoping that we can get this going again but boy when a movement's been treated like this it makes you wonder if you're going to be able to get it running all right well into the watch cleaning machine it goes again a solvent and then two rinses and then a drying cycle is what makes it up and while i clean this watch i did want to mention my patreon um i that's how i support this channel is via patreon basically it's a way that if you like what i'm doing here and you want to see it continue and all that help me out um you can go to patreon.com wristwatch revival and yes you do get a thank you card and a sticker in the mail no matter what level you sign up for in particular i want to thank really everybody over there but but again in particular i want to thank trevor spencer ross robert ralph n.t mitchell michael mikey kyle kim kevin jason james george erica dustin collin brynton brian brian brett brad and alex thank you very much for your support it really does mean a lot to me as you might you know guess these videos are very labor intensive and i have to you know buy the watches and buy the parts and do all that stuff so it really does help out to keep these watch these videos coming i i love making them i love sharing things that i find fascinating or interesting about the world and it turns out that watchmaking is one of those things and i'm honestly just thrilled that you're here uh hanging out with me so thank you for that as well okay so there we go ooh it's hot it's hot the basket gets hot after being in the drying cycle but let's take a look at how the parts look when they're all laid out and clean hey that's a lot better you know these actually cleaned up pretty darn well considering uh you know how much oil had been sitting on them for however long okay so let's address a few of the outside things the the non-movement related things before we get cracking back on the movement again so first we have the whining stem now i bought one that says it's for this movement so that's great and now i have this gauge that tells me what size of tap that's the screw threads that it is and basically the smallest one that you can put in is the one that it is it goes into 10 or i should say the biggest anyway but it looks like it's a tap nine yes so that goes in smoothly and feels like it's actually engaging properly so i believe that this is a tap nine and that means that i can grab my crowns i have a few they call these assortments when you get you know a box that has a few different sizes of them and there's a couple different styles that we can choose from and we'll go with these ones these are called simple crowns there's also waterproof crowns and we'll pick between them i'm going to go on the bigger end i tend to like the look of a slightly oversized crown it's also a little easier to to turn so let's see if this one will work and what we do here is we put this stem into a pin vise and then we'll screw it in to make sure that it fits properly into this tap nine crown and yes that looks like it's doing just right and that way we'll have this ready so that when we want when we assemble the movement you know part of the way through we're going to need a winding crown to a make sure it fits and b is how we wind up the watch and do all that stuff as well so we've got that ready now we need to address this situation so this is a damaged bent crown tube now you may not know this but this tube is actually not part of the case it's a pressed in fitting and what that means is we can press it out and i've got this little tool that is specifically made to take out and put in these uh case tubes you can use these for pushers for chronographs or for the the crown so i'm gonna pick the this little die thing and this is what's going to push down to remove the old bent one there will be no fixing it right it has to be round and as you can see it just goes on the inside of the case and then pushes up against the the case tube and there we go so we got out the case tube and that means that i can replace it take a quick look and there you go so that's what it looks like without any case tube at all and that's how the case is manufactured now what we need to do though is find an equivalent replacement case tube now i've got an assortment of these as well but they're it was kind of like the throw the bunch of them in a bag type assortment so it's time to take some measurements i'm going to get my micrometer out i'm going to measure the length i'm going to measure uh the length of the tube part and then the two basic basically the two sizes of it so this is kind of the outer tube diameter the inner tube diameter and then the length of it and i'm gonna grab my bag of potential case tubes and i'm just gonna eyeball the first couple that i bring out here just to see like does that look about the same yeah maybe this one's a little longer but looks about the same as well you know it can't be too long because it'll stick into the into the case too far but we can measure it and see if it if it lines up about with what the other one did and that one does seem to be the right size so let's give it a shot and see if we can make it fit and then we can do a test fit of the crown to make sure that it engages properly as well so now we flip around the tool and we're going to use the other side of it to just simply press this in it's not a complicated part of this tool just has these delrin pushers that hold it in place and then we just press fit this in it's just friction fit you don't glue it or screw it or anything like that and tada we have a new case tube that's what it should look like and now we can do a quick test fit of the new crown and look at that it fits right over it so that means it was the right size and it actually looks nice too and it's turnable meaning it's not going to bump up against the edges of the case because i did use a little bit bigger of one that probably came on it okay so now that we've got that ready to go we can start reassembling the movement here and see if we can get it to run it's been thoroughly cleaned like i said and now we're gonna put it back together and lubricate it and then cross our fingers and hope that it actually runs and if not we're gonna have to do some uh some troubleshooting so there's the escape wheel going in kind of a little bridge here that holds the center wheel in place okay we can get this screwed down oop okay and there we go and uh with that in place we now need to address the mainspring barrel now this is an automatic watch and what that means is we use something called breaking grease on the inside of the barrel walls and the reason why we use this is because the watch will get fully wound just by you wearing it and then it'll keep winding right and as you might guess uh you don't want there to be you you need it to be able to slip around the edges of that wall but you don't want super you want just the right amount of friction in this breaking grease gives you that all right here's the best part oh you know how much i love this oh yeah best sound best feeling never gets old put the mainspring back in the barrel and just a little bit of hp 1300 on the top where the cap meets the barrel arbor after we put that in okay and then this just is going to get press fit in i'm just going to do it with my fingers i have a little holder that can do it as well but this one seemed pretty straightforward so there you go and now we can put the barrel into the watch movement again you know the barrel is actually you know they have numbers for the train of wheels uh they also have other names but uh when you you know you think of the fourth wheel for example or the third wheel the barrel is actually the first wheel so that's the big boy it even gets its own bridge just like this there's a barrel bridge going into place this is a nice little movement um you know once it isn't saturated in oil it actually goes together quite nicely it's automatic it's got a cool rotor just going to put a little tiny bit of grease around the inside of where the setting lever screw goes that is a friction area so you do need some type of lubrication but also i'll be honest it helps it just hold it in place while you're putting everything else together so that's handy too okay now it's time for the train wheel bridge which is a little bit tricky and as you can see i don't have it seated properly just yet you have to get all those wheels into those pivots so see if we can just oh when it goes there we go see when it goes down like that that usually means that you've got it and let's see if we that is what you want to see so if i turn the first wheel what is it called that's right the barrel if i turn that you can see all the train wheels spin all the way down to the uh to the escape wheel and that's what you want once again escape wheel turning there at the bottom and that's what we want okay now this is part of the automatic winding works and it's really interesting because if you look in the very middle it actually has a like a ratchet type setup where it can go one direction but not the other i've never seen this before in a automatic winding setup i am going to use some grease because this is what i would use on the keyless works it tends to be a fairly high friction part and i'm going to assume that this one is as well and so that's why i'm going to use that you know i don't have a diagram for this i'm not sure you know even if you even if i did it would probably talk about the old oils that people used to use before synthetic oils were invented i mean i've got some watchmaking books that call for using like animal fat i'm not kidding either there's some weird you know that people had to do some weird stuff but now we're lucky and we have all these synthetic oils that tend to perform much much better okay continuing with the build oops oof okay we got away with one there all the watchmakers that are watching are like because you see this little spring go flying and those are the types of springs they don't come back this one did so i got lucky got to be careful right that's why i'm using that stick but still sometimes it can just kind of get away from you okay that's actually the click spring that i'm putting in and that means with it in place i can now put the click in as well try to get it situated properly before screwing it down if i can i think this is the right screw yup that looks right and just a quick test to make sure that the click is screwed down and can engage with its click spring and it looks like it can now the ratchet wheel a little finicky to fit on here because it's a square hole but uh looks like i got it lined up and we can get that tacked down as well this is another part of the automatic winding works it it's just a tension spring i guess you would call it it just keeps that thing pressed down that is the top of that little ratchety part that i mentioned before usually when you see those they are put in place so that something can turn one direction but not the other that's that's what their purpose is okay now this is another part of the automatic winding works it looks like a normal just like a train wheel but it's actually not oop these go on top of this bridge and then they have another bridge that go on top again so they line up like this but then i have to figure out well let's just oil this first while i've got before i put on that bridge i should say that this doesn't look right though right so there was this weird part that looks like a little face kind of with very surprised eyes i guess at any rate um that goes on first and then i can put a little bit of oil on these posts because there's these little tiny wheels just little baby ones and that goes on those posts and those are what actually engage with that small wheel off to the side as well so those need to line up with each other which need to line up with the other thing and then i can try to put on the automatic winding bridge which is what this is and this you know the whole point of that all the parts that i just put on is that they take that twisting motion from the rotor and they turn it into little tiny winds of your watch that add up over time okay make sure everything's seated correctly and it looks like it is again i've never worked on this movement so kind of making it up as i go okay yeah things are engaged i suppose okay a little bit more oiling to be done here on the pivots for this automatic winding bridge and now we can flip the watch over and start putting together the other side so first we'll put on the canon pinion just like that and now the keyless works here's another ratchet this is the part i was referring to before do you see how it has that similar design and i'm using the same grease on that here's the other side of that ratcheting motion this is called a sliding clutch that little thing is responsible for when you wind your watch that's why when you turn it one direction it winds it but when you turn it back the other it doesn't if you had a bicycle as a kid without any gears on it it's similar to that or with gears on it i mean it's similar to that okay so in goes the minute wheel and they're in a meter intermediate wheel a little bit of extra lubrication around the yoke both on the post where it's going to go and then it also meets with that sliding clutch and so you want to make sure that you know that has a good bit of lubrication in it just because that's metal on metal and now we can put the yoke spring into place carefully carefully and there we go what not quite careful don't want that thing to go flying off that's a pretty beefy spring it can go some distance that's what you want to see much better okay next up the setting lever get that screwed down and now we can put in the setting lever spring and we're getting pretty close here to see if this thing can run okay with that in place there's one more little cover plate to put on and then we can actually test to make sure that this winding stem is going to work again it said it was for this movement but you know these movements the company as that's a shield they made them all types of movements for a really long time and you know you just never know what you're going to get i mean i bought this off of i think off of ebay but that does actually feel like it's correct so we can see if it's going to engage with the keyless works properly there that's that's what we want to see that's winding and that's setting hey this thing works that's great now we can just do the kind of last lubrication on the keyless works which is really down here around where the setting lever goes and you really do need to make sure that you get this now i over did it here that's a bit too much grease so i'm going to have to adjust that but that is a very very high friction part and it's on a spring as well so you really want to make sure that that gets lubricated possibly but i'm going to use some radical here to clean up the excess because excess doesn't help it actually hurts it can attract oil or dust it can lead to it draining to places that it shouldn't be so you don't want to leave it sitting on there so now i can put some of the grease onto the winding stem itself and get it locked in again you may notice by the way that the winding stem is way way too long right now and that will have to be addressed as well but they come like that from the factory and then it's up to the watchmaker to trim them to spec okay let's get the pallet forks in fork is in situ and this is a little bridge that uh holds it there so we'll just tweak around with pallet fork a little bit to make sure that the pivots engage before we do this screw the teleport bridge down i really hope that this thing runs i didn't notice anything wrong with it you know obvious at least while putting it back together i usually do a bit of an inspection on the parts on the microscope as well and i didn't see you know again no broken teeth or anything crazy there we go we got some wine in the watch and the pallet fork is under tension so that's another good thing but of course that means it's time for this balance it's been thoroughly cleaned the uh the balance spring was completely gummed up with oil making it basically impossible for the watch to run but i ran it through the watch cleaning machine i also put it in some one dip and kind of manually cleaned it and it looks like it cleaned up nicely now the question is will this watch run it is sitting oh there we go there's some signs of life so that's already really promising now it doesn't look like it's running yeah see it stopped already but also we don't actually have the balance even installed fully yet and the watch isn't wound up so let's get the balance screwed into place and put a wind in the watch the more you wind it the more power it'll have and look at that it is running again we have brought another watch back to life and i'm thrilled with it there's a little bit of oiling i need to do on the bottom part of the train wheel pivots but this is awesome we have now bought a watch off of ebay for really cheap a cool watch too and we have brought it back to life now let's get these uh shock jewels cleaned up properly that also tends to help with amplitude as you can see they're completely dry that makes sense i ran them through the watch cleaning machine and you know it's they've been through quite a bit of solvent so you would hope that there wouldn't be oil still in there but sometimes there is if it gets dried on enough so now we're going to put the cap joule and the cap joule setting into some one dip this is another solvent that'll take off any remaining dirt or crusted on oil and then it simply evaporates away and now we can take some mobius 9010 oil and put it right in the center and hey look at that i'm getting good at this and now we can put the setting back on flip it back over and back into the watch it goes this suspends just around the right amount of oil right where that pivot needs to be and this pivot gets a lot of action as you can see the watch is running it's going back and forth very quickly so that's a lot of friction that it needs to kind of soak up so now we can replace the shock setting done and done let's put it on the time grapher and see what it can do holy smokes this is amazing this is with no adjustment by the way this is just like put it on the time grapher and see what it's doing and it's running within what two or four seconds a day 205 degrees of amplitude and an acceptable 0.2 milliseconds of beat air i am thrilled with that uh really an incredible result and that means that with the movement finished up we can turn our attention to the rest of the watch now this dial is really nice i really like it it's got gold indices on it it has some cool fonts like from the 40s and 50s i really like that kind of stuff but this thing's just been exposed as you can see it's pretty beat up dial because there was no crystal on the thing it was just floating around i mean when i got it it was wrapped up in a little bit of bubble wrap that was it but this dial has been exposed to the elements so as usual i'm gonna be very deft with this i am not going to go hardcore i'm not going to use any solvents or cleaners on it i am not going to attempt to repaint anything i know some people think that it's better to fully restore a dial by repainting it in doing that i don't i'm curious what you think about it i i find it always looks worse so that's why i don't do it and a light touch i think is is needed now i found these off of ebay and i thought that they so these go for the movement when you buy watches excuse me watch hands you buy them for the movement not for the watch and i got them and i actually like them a lot i think they they'll fit the watch stylistically but i hate the loom i don't know if somebody re-loomed these or what but it's this horrible kind of bluish green it looks totally out of place on a watch like this and you know these are the details that matter yeah i could just throw these on the watch but it will have this severely in my opinion out of place bluish green loom and i just couldn't do it i just couldn't so i'm taking that loom off even though i just bought these hands and i'm gonna re-loom them simply so that they look a little darker and not neon so first we have to remove all of the existing loom you do have to be careful when you work on loom as well there's mainly two types of for older watches and one of them is radium you like yes that radium if you've watched any youtube videos about radium and how horrible it is um you really have to be careful these aren't these were re-loomed in a more modern way so it's it's an inert uh substance but some of them aren't so you got to be careful okay so now we've got all the loom removed i actually uh ran these through the ultrasonic cleaner too that removes every little tiny bit of the loom and now we can set these up to be re-loomed so that i can get i can be happier with the car i know i'm being picky i know that but i'm picky so this is a loom kit powder binder a little tiny cup to mix it and then an oiler to mix it up and apply it with it's really simple stuff actually so this is the powder and yes it is white on white so it's a little difficult to see i do apologize for that and this is a binder again this is just a liquid that you mix with the glow-in-the-dark powder basically and then that makes it liquid so that you can apply it and shape it and put it how you want and then it evaporates off and it leaves um you know a kind of a cemented layer of the loom that's it it's really simple so we'll mix these getting the consistency the way you want is really what you're going for here if it's too thin it will you'll actually be able to see through the loom patches and if it's too thick it won't apply correctly and yeah that's coffee i am putting some coffee into the mixture and the reason i'm doing this is because this loom is white it is designed to dry a very bright clean white which is a great look for most watches but this is an old watch and i don't want bright stark white loom on there i want it to be a little darker just to take the edge off and i have found that coffee does the trick i know it's weird but i've experimented with this and it works it just does okay so there's the loom going on as you can see it kind of fills in the gaps automatically because the consistency's uh where it needs to be coffee tends to make the loom dry into a grayish brown i guess is how i would describe it it doesn't really quite make it the same color as coffee it's it's it's actually just it just sort of darkens it is is basically all it does okay just get this smoothed out a little bit this is the bottom of the hand so you won't see that part of it it'll dry nicely and boom we'll let that sit overnight and let's take a look at what we got in the morning perfect that is what we want it is not this you know crazy bright thing where you're just like wow that really stands out it just has a little bit of aging to it and that's what i want i just want to knock that kind of hard white edge off of it and i think that these will go on the watch style a lot better than if we had left it and certainly if we had left it that green color okay our wheel on dial washer on and we can start down the road of final assembly i've got the dial that i cleaned up it cleaned up nicely it it's not perfect or anything because it actually did take on a little bit of wear being exposed like that but not bad the dial is in fine shape overall as you can see it has a little bit of patina on it but i like that i'm one of those people are you there's a limit right if it's just like destroyed i don't like that so much but a little bit of patina i do enjoy okay so let's get this thing going into the case we can now uh try out the crown but as i noted before the stem is going to be too long so we will need to trim that down to uh to make it so that it fits just right and so the way we do this is we put in the crown as if it were normal normally mounted and then we measure how much of that stem we actually need to take out so we need to take out 3.7 millimeters of stem but through personal experience even some videos on this channel um measure three times cut once and then cut it long and sand it down or file it down i mean like seriously once you cut this too short you can't use it anymore it won't engage with the keyless works because it's not long enough to get the the parts in there so i'm very conservative about cutting these now i'm gonna mark it to about the point you know the 3.7 mark and i am going to cut it above that because i have accidentally cut just a tiny bit too much off before and it sucks you basically have to get a new stem so i'm going to cut it about here and you can see i left a decent amount of the black marker on there that's part that i left on purpose and i'm going to take actually this kind of big file it's a little big for the job and there's two things that you want to do when you're filing these one of them is you're deburring it right when you clip something off like that using metal it creates sharp edges on the top and the crown that you put it in is only brass and what that means is it can actually tear up the thread so you want to smooth those over the other thing that it's going to do for us though is allow me to fine tune the length of it i can use the the file to just file off you know a tenth of a millimeter at a time or whatever and get it just right so let's see how our first fit went and we'll do that what we'll do is put the crown in get it seated put it in as if it were just in the watch like normal and then see where it sits relative to the case and i can tell already that it's still a little bit too long that's okay that is what we expected unfortunately it does mean i need to take everything apart again and then i need to take the winding stem out of the crown and then i need to grab my file again and i need to file it down and then i'll probably have to do this numerous times until i get it just right but it really pays off when the crown works and fits perfectly it snugs up against the case and it engages but there isn't that annoying gap between the crown and the uh and the case itself so let's see after a few times if uh if we've got it right okay that looks good already now we're gonna still have to tap this attack this thing down though to make sure that it sits correctly and then it also functions okay yes i can feel it that i pull it out let's see how it looks perfect and i kind of like the bigger crown look on it too i guarantee the crown that came with this was quite a bit smaller now the last thing we need to do for this uh crown new crown new stem job is we need to use some loctite and this just ensures that it won't um unscrew on its own this is a relatively mild form of loctitus222 and that won't lock it lock it as the name might suggest it just means that it won't come off come apart on its own okay now we need to replace the crystal and i'm actually going to show you what this rubber how this rubber press works normally i put a piece of plastic here um just to protect the crystal but i want to show you how this does and these dies are made to press these down so it's not 100 necessary but the outside part of this top die is pressing down on the crystal and then it presses it down so that it actually shrinks the edges of it and now i can get the case so that the crystals inside of the fitting and now i'm unscrewing it and then the crystal simply lets go into the case it's a very simple operation but these rubber presses are great at doing this i mean it it turns this into a two minute job look at that a new crystal goes a long way particularly when the watch didn't have one at all i'll use my air blower just to make sure that there's no dust or debris and last but not least when i ordered the hands it did not come with a second sand and this according to the website that i found takes a .22 millimeter seconds hand i could not find in it point two two millimeters just evaded me i found point two one and i found point two zero i found this one that looks like stylistically it would be a good match for me but it is a point two or a 0.21 i can't remember but it's slightly smaller so i'm going to use this this is called a broach a cutting broach or a smoothing brooch depending there's two different types this one is going to let me yes expand the tiny little hole there just by those couple of hundredths of a millimeter so that it will actually fit on so this is going to be another trial and error thing and all you do is put this in and then twist it it's got a kind of a triangular shaped brooch and that cuts away a little bit of the metal like a drill you know like a drill would or it's also called a reamer um in in watchmaking if you know if it's attached to like a um a staking set so let's give this a quick test fit i i'm just this is just by feel like i can't measure that so can i yes okay so i have got it to go on but it's pretty obvious that it's still a bit too small so i think i'm gonna do one more run with the broach to open up that hole again i probably took it from like .20 to 0.21 but i need one more session here to make sure that it gets up to the point zero 0.22 of a millimeter that i need you know i'm just gonna do it again again this is a feel thing right i mean i i don't know how you'd even attempt to measure something that small and believe me i looked everywhere for 0.22 millimeter hand that would fit and i just couldn't i really like this one i found though there we go seconds hand is on so we've solved that problem there are a lot of problems we're we are problem solving this just go around no doubt about it so let's get the hands on this is the hour hand and the minute hand did have to do a little bit of tweaking of the hands just to make sure that they don't touch one of them was a little bit bent when it arrived and i kind of bent it back just little tiny tweaks like that but the hands you know it's tough because these are the hands for this movement but that doesn't mean that they're the hands for this watch i don't even know what the hands look like on this watch when it came out i have no idea i'm just picking ones that i feel suit the style of the watch and the era now we can get the seconds hand on yeah like that and just a quick push to make sure that it's engaged properly i like that seconds hand it actually matches up pretty well with the ones that we've got so i was happy to see that and now we can case the movement get our brand new crown on here i still can't believe how well this movement ran it really just goes to show that you need to take care of these things right if this thing had been serviced regularly the person who decided to dip it into a vat of oil probably wouldn't have been compelled to do that okay just a quick check to make sure that the hands are aligned and they're not bumping into each other and now we can put the automatic winding rotor back on as well i tried to see if i could address the you can see the top how some of the you can see two colors of metal there but what i realized is is that the plating had come off on that part and i wasn't gonna you know try to replate that or anything crazy i i think it looks kind of cool so whatever it's this watch also has a solid case back on it so you can't even see it but when i first got it i thought that was something i could maybe clean off but if you look closely here you can see that it's where the the plating has uh evaporated somehow okay so there's the automatic winding rotor and a quick check you can see the automatic works working underneath it and yes in either direction it is in fact winding the watch so that's fantastic and now we can put the case back on i just reused the the gasket that came with it because i tried to put a new gasket on but it wouldn't fit right so i just decided to reuse the original and there you have it a beautiful philippe watch show the phone i have no idea you know if this brand is a thing or if it was big or small but what i do know is we brought another watch back to life this thing was in the junk pile a non-runner with no crystal no hands dial exposed bent up case tube no whining crown no winding stem and apparently a somewhat abused uh movement as well and uh it is no longer i'm really happy with this one it runs great it looks good on the wrist and it has that sort of old-school charm to it as well and uh yeah i'm really glad i decided to take on this watch it looked like it might have been a little too much for me but we got through it and after having fixed everything up we've got a great watch i want to thank you for joining me once again on this journey i really appreciate you taking the time to hang out with me and explore horology and watchmaking and watches and and all just the cool stuff that goes along with that it does mean a lot to me um if you want to keep up with me in between videos you can follow me on instagram it's wristwatch underscore revival and i post uh like project updates and some some of the watches from my own collection and stuff like that over there so i'd love to say hi to you over on on instagram and uh yeah that's gonna do it for this one thank you so much for hanging out we'll see you next time

Channel: Wristwatch Revival

Views: 1,915,368

Keywords:

Id: wgxwOZy6zF8

Length: 53min 3sec (3183 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 31 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/rp2784]

First time watching watch repairs. Didn’t know I was that type to see the whole video. Awesome!

[u/TheDongerNeedsFood]

Very cool!

[u/MILLERRRR]

Here's a great video explaining the intricate pieces that make up a wristwatch.

[u/HumbleBrothers]

Great video