Seiko 6105 "Captain Willard" Vintage Watch Restoration

hello there and welcome back to another video here on wristwatch revival i'm marshall i'm going to be guiding you through today's video thank you so much for uh taking the time to hang out with me for a little bit this time on the bench we've got a sweet watch this is a seiko 6105 this one's mine i actually bought it off of ebay maybe six seven years ago something like that and uh yeah this is a captain willard as they're known it's one of the most iconic seiko watches ever made this is also the first watch i ever fixed anything on i actually replaced the crystal on this watch i was very very proud of myself at the time uh for putting the new crystal on but as you can see it's in great shape this is uh called the captain willard because it's uh it's named after the main character in the 1979 film apocalypse now captain benjamin willard played by martin sheen and he basically wears the watch for the whole movie the watch was produced from 1968 to 1977 and it was sold in asia during the vietnam conflict and was very popular with american soldiers many of whom went as far as wearing it in combat even though they weren't army issued watches which were known to fail in the harsh environment of vietnam since then it's become iconic it's valuable uh you know for multiple designs for multiple reasons including the design and this association with the movie and the era that it was made in but for us let's get this thing on the bench because i bought this off of ebay years ago and i never uh have serviced it i never knew how until now so i figured well let's give it a service and it looks like it actually needs one pretty badly there's a decent chance it hadn't been serviced in years since when i bought it and as you can see the amplitude was fairly low there and it was losing actually a lot of time almost a minute a day so first things first let's get this case back off this is a dive watch for the era important to remember that dive watches uh even if they were meant to be a dive watch back then may not be a dive watch now uh you it's you really want to make sure that your vintage watch is checked and make sure that they're actually waterproof before taking them in the pool or out in the ocean but in the meantime we do need to get the case back off and it's a pretty uh secure case back so i'm going to use my case back removal tool here this is actually a uh a chinese version of a of a version tool a you know expensive swiss one that i bought quite a while ago and i haven't really felt the urge to replace it yet i don't have to use it too often and this one's reasonably made so i've stuck with it i figure if it breaks i'll save up and get the get the version one next so that i don't have to ever buy another one again because it looks like it's really well made but this one's actually pretty decent as you can see it works well i haven't had any issues with it so there comes the case back it's kind of a weird tool to use but it does work well so now that we've got the case back off we can get into the movement here and see what's going on there it is seiko time corp it says on the inside of the case back this is an automatic watch that's another bonus uh you know for heavy use whether it's in the military or not you just wear the thing all the time and you don't have to ever wind it it has a locking crown as well so that it doesn't get knocked loose and as you can see a rather pronounced crown guard down there as well it's kind of one of the design features of the watch that really stands out and makes it kind of unique so we'll take the crown out first and uh yeah this thing just needs a good service try to get those numbers up on the time grapher to say this watch is uh really comfortable on the wrist as well if you've ever had a chance to wear one with all the kind of rounded edges and such it's very soft it's extremely legible as you can see i mean there there really isn't much to it it does have a date function on it that's kind of the only complication besides time i'm going to use my hand levers to remove the hands these hands are a little a little bit worn but not enough for me to actually do anything about i'm happy to keep it in original condition one of the hands fell off of my casing cushion there the dial on this particular one is is really in remarkably good condition they a lot of these watches saw a lot of heavy use in vietnam or elsewhere and they're you know they're kind of meant to be worn and beaten up a little bit i'm going to start by taking off the the automatic rotor so when that part spins that's what actually winds the watch as you walk around or move your hands that part right there it's a weighted rotor it's weighted on the outside so that it kind of flips around on that pivot now we need to take the dial off to remove the crown and the stem here this one actually has one of those little spring-loaded pushers that you push down rather than the the screw for the setting lever that you'll see on most of the watches that i work on this of course is a movement um made by seiko in japan and there's always a few little differences you know between swiss watches and japanese watches and you'll even see some differences if you if you go back to american watches or german watches have certain design elements that they tend to stick to not a 100 but you'll see little differences and there's a dial coming off and this is like a plastic ring that looks like it's broken but i don't know it doesn't really have that important of a job so i'm just to try to keep it together and not let it break any further and there's that beautiful dial really isn't great shape it's hard to find them like that i feel like i got lucky with that one now you can see the calendar works here and as you can see there's kind of a large cover plate that covers up the motion works and the calendar works kind of all at once so i'm going to start by removing that this is my first time working on this watch i might be my first seiko maybe i've tried another one i don't know you can see also somebody engraved the number 6105 on that plate and it looks like i may have forgotten the screw here now i'll try to remove this plate again and then realize i forgot another screw probably want to take that off before taking off the plate and there we go that looks pretty clean if perhaps a bit dry and now we can get a look at what's going on with the calendar works underneath here so we can take this calendar ring off first try to be careful with that just because it has printing on it and that little spring i just was like oh where did that go again because you know you kind of commit these things to your brain as you go through and take apart a watch especially if it's the first time working on a movement i'll tell you you know there aren't as many movements out in the world than than you think when you first start working on watches and the similarities between many of them are very very strong as well but still there's little tricks to every movement there's little tiny things that you need to learn about each one before you get really comfortable with taking it apart and putting it back together and this since this is my first time on this movement it requires a little extra poking prodding and thinking um when i'm actually doing the disassembly and then i can get a better idea of how it'll go back together interestingly seiko uses plastic parts occasionally this is one of them i honestly have no idea why they use plastic parts it's really frowned upon from the swiss side but they must have really figured that those parts needed to be plastic or something because you know your first thought would be that it would be like a cost saving exercise and that might be part of it but they use they only use them on very specific parts in the calendar works it's not like they're going around the movement looking for parts to turn into plastic it's just a couple of little wheels that go on the calendar for some reason here's my canon pinion remover to take the canon pinion off nice and easy that remover is great it pulls the canon pinion directly upward so that there's no bending or tweaking on that post which is well it's actually a opinion from one of the wheels so you really don't want to be working that sideways again i'm just kind of taking a close look at each of the pieces here as i take them apart look at this weird calendar thing with this spring-loaded thing pretty sure that's what kicks the calendar over when it goes all right so now we've got that part mostly disassembled we can switch our attention back over to the other side of the watch where the gear train and the automatic works and all that kind of stuff is the first thing i usually like to do that's right take off the balance why do i do that generally speaking just to protect the thing easily the most delicate part on the watch there's two really really delicate things with the balance there's the pivots which are tiny and very breakable and susceptible to that and then there's the main spring or sorry the main spring the balance spring which is also you know it's also called the hair spring it is absolutely thin and tiny and can be damaged quite easily so you know being somebody who's still learning this this craft very very much and trying to improve you know i like to just get that thing out of the way so that if i slip with a screwdriver or put my finger in the wrong spot or whatever i won't have to deal with a disaster plus it's got to come out anyway so well you know why not take it out first there's really no no upside to leaving it in so now we're going to take the automatic bridge off and it kind of pops off because it's held under a little bit of tension we'll take that up that part apart later um but the the way that seiko has designed these automatic works is it is genius seriously just an absolute work of genius i it's so simple uh yet it does exactly what you want the key is that you need that rotor when it turns around the ideal situation is where it'll wind up the watch whether that rotor turns clockwise or counterclockwise and they have that here and it works beautifully and i'll show you that when i take it apart in the meantime we can keep going deeper into this thing you can see i took off the crown wheel ratchet wheel there and that means that i can actually take off this big bridge and again you know on a lot of the watches that i work on the barrel bridge will not cover as much ground as this particular barrel bridge does as you can see when i take it off that it actually covers most of the train of wheels as well so it's kind of a a combo bridge these are sometimes called a three-quarter plate i don't know if this technically counts as a three-quarter plate but you know this is a bridge that's that's responsible for a lot more pivots than normal as you can see the whole train of wheels is basically exposed there outside of the escape wheel and that stick right there that i'm figuring out that's actually the click and i have to say it looks cheap it just looks like a little post of of metal that is all it is but that is the click and the click spring together and it's another i'm telling you the ingenuity that went into this watch especially for the time frame late 60s early 70s is just so impressive to me it's just looking at things in a different way and solving problems in a different way i don't know that it's better or worse but it is awesome how they figured that out oh and by the way i didn't mean uh the escape wheel i meant actually the pallet forks was the only thing that wasn't covered by that bridge there as you can see the escape wheel kind of hanging out as i start to take out the train of wheels that right there is called a hack and what that does is when you pull the crown out to set the time it stops the watch from running so that you can set it to a very specific you know right to the second and that can be very important um interestingly even though this isn't technically a military watch that can actually be important in military applications you can synchronize your watch with somebody else so that you make sure that you're going off at the same time so digging a bit deeper here there goes the escape wheel i'm just taking a look at it again just trying to figure out how this thing goes back together or if there's anything different that i need to keep my eye out on i want to take that main wheel out there but it's kind of getting blocked so i figure well let's just continue the path here and take out the pallet forks yeah these watches have become very popular they've actually gone up in value a lot i think i paid five or six hundred dollars for this watch and now i think they're going for somewhere around double that i've considered selling it a few times but ultimately i it's such a nice watch to just pick up and put on like it it just never gives you any fuss it's really comfortable it wears beautifully it's just kind of one of those watches that's really nice to have in the watch box just to take out when you're just gonna you know when you don't want to have to think about it and i really like watches like that in fact a lot of my watches are like that all right now we've got the pallet forks out and we're almost done with disassembly and i have to say even though this has calendar and it's an automatic that wasn't so bad i haven't you know it's funny when you take on this hobby there sometimes does come a point where you get into a watch and you start to get that feeling in your stomach like i maybe have gone too far like i am not good enough to do the things i'm doing right now and this one had me a little tiny bit of that but not enough to to really scare me off i thought you know what i can do this i can do this so that's kind of the intermediate wheel for setting the time and the calendar um it has a quick set calendar and the wheel to set the the hands uh built into one and now there's a very large and kind of complicated but cool spring here it's also a cover plate this is the setting lever spring but it also has that large flat section near the the back of it there and that's uh the thing that you're pushing down on for the setting lever to release the crown from it that's the spring that holds that in place so that acts as a cover and two different springs so another just really great design right like just a a well thought out part that that covers multiple uses at once and as we've learned in the past the oak spring must be taken out carefully it's actually quite a beefy spring for a watch and it gets loaded up and it'll go flying and you can get some real distance on it too there's the yoke and since this setting lever doesn't have a screw on the other side because it's one of the the kind with the spring you can actually just pull it straight out of the hole like that easy easy and as you can see there's a ton of oil sitting underneath it it looks like this watch may have been over oiled at some time in the past you really shouldn't see a pool of oil like that and on top of that this thing hasn't been serviced in minimum since i bought it and that's already been passed you know when i would normally want to service it and likely it hasn't been serviced in a much longer time than that so having that much oil left over really does signify that there's quite a bit now what i'm doing here is putting the balance back on the main plate and you might be thinking well why you just took it off and the answer is i like to clean the main plate and the balance together this way the balance isn't just flying around and can't get caught up in other things because it's protected by the balance bridge there then i'll take off the shock jewels on the top and bottom later on during the cleaning process and clean those individually and manually and i find that that's a better way to get them clean anyway than putting them through the watch cleaning machine so the last thing i need to do is take apart this mainspring barrel and it actually goes kind of backwards from how the swiss ones do and as you can see yuck somebody put i don't know what in this but a ton of something and this is not good when you have this much lubricant in there a it leaves a lot more to break down which means that it actually gets you know much much worse over time and b it attracts dirt like it'll actually that much lubricant will actually hold dirt or any type of dust or anything in there so that has got to go that is way way way too much in there maybe on a wd-40 or something and the spring is kind of a mess as a result i can't hardly even get a grip on it and it doesn't really want to come out either normally these just kind of unfold you can see how dirty my finger cuts are getting too that is exactly what you don't want to happen so it unwound all at once and sent the barrel thing the barrel flying across the room thankfully it's huge so it's not hard to find but look at all the grease in there that is way way way too much grease now the last thing to do before we put this thing in the cleaning machine is to take apart this automatic works and it is so simple it's got these these hand things called pawls or a pawl something and all it does is they're different sizes and they grip a geared wheel and they basically make it so that one hand can go one way there's a little pulse it looks like a little pinchers or something right there that i'm taking off and they go on that little wheel sitting on the left hand side and they just grip the side of it and what they do is they sort of creep their way up the side of it but they can only go one way because of the way that those those hands are shaped it's really really cool design and it works beautifully that's it by the way that's the whole design on the on the uh automatic works and as you can see here's the entire watch disassembled and laid out for you actually quite a few parts in one of these the the these are no joke there's a lot going on in there i mean it's not a chronograph but you know calendar plus automatic does add up so now it's time to get everything into the watch cleaning machine as you can see i use these little tiny baskets and then the bigger stuff goes in these mesh baskets that are already built in and there we go when i took it out of the watch cleaning machine though something happened and as you can see that mainspring broke this is the end of the main spring and it probably got weakened when i uh accidentally let it come apart all at once so that really was bad and maybe it already had some kinks or damage on it to start with at any rate i had to order a new mainspring good news though a i was able to find one easily and b the barrel cleaned up very nicely no more of that grease in there although you can see where there was some wear on the inside of the top of the barrel and that also could have contributed to the fatigue of the spring that would lead it to break and again me letting it fly out of that barrel probably didn't help so these main springs come with one side painted and that's the top part and all you have to do it's it's quite easy they make it really easy on you is you take the main spring in this uh metal disk you take the take the painted part no matter what color it is in this case it's actually silver that's up and then you just hold it over the barrel it'll sit right in and then you can just use your tweezers to gently push the mainspring in and that's it and it makes it really easy and it's actually even quicker than using the mainspring winders or any other way to put them in so easy job done this a lot of times before or you might think i had done this a lot of times before because guess what it just came out of the stupid barrel again so now i do actually have to use the mainspring whiners to get it back in and yeah man i'm still learning and so this is uh this is some of the stuff that you have to face down when you're when you're learning the good news is i have the right tool to get it uh wound back in and then i can click it right back in with that really satisfying click sound and get back underway with the build but yeah having some mainspring problems with this this rebuild apparently so now we get to put the arbor back in and we'll put a little bit of 1300 on the top of that because it does rotate for putting the barrel lid on and these fit like the swiss ones you just click them into place with pressure and that means that we can get started again on the movement so that means that the same thing i did when i very first started the movement i'm going to do here which is i'm going to take the balance off so that it's not hanging around or in the way as we rebuild the watch and i'll put that on last because uh that's the last part that we need to put on so that center wheel under there and then the barrel and now i'll put on the click i remembered that the uh that the click was actually under that bridge so i want to make sure that i put it on ahead of time and now we can get the escape wheel in place and i guess i can go ahead and put the pallet forks on now as well i remembered that i had taken those off around this time and now normally i don't put those on until later but there's like a smaller bridge and then the big bridge that all kind of go on top of it so i figured well i should probably put them on now before i put on those other ones on top and again this is me kind of sorting out as i go and remembering how it was when i took these these apart so there's a pallet fork bridge coming in of course one wants to be very gentle with this part and i'll even use a little stick here just to hold down that bridge because if the pivots on that pallet those pivots and the ones on the balance are the thinnest and they're the easiest to break and again i'm going to use this little stick just to hold it in place while i screw down just in case like me pushing on the side of the bridge with the screwdriver upsets it and then i screw it down and it can snap so this is that uh that little bridge that i mentioned before just for that center wheel and i'm just getting a little bit of lubrication here and then also another one thing i didn't want to forget is this and once again this is the hack this is what stops the movement when you pull the crown out not every watch has that it's a feature but again it's common on military watches or watches that that really require precision out in the field again this isn't technically a military watch it's just a diver watch but it does get used for that so now the other two wheels can go into place and then i realize that this click is actually in the way and i need to take it off and again this is just working on a movement for the first time and getting through the kind of bumps in the road right where i'm like oh this actually does go on after i can't put it on first because there's actually a lip on this bridge that would push down part of it and it needs to go on after but no big deal and again i'm manipulating the bridge as well as the barrel here because i need to get all of the pivots lined up and when i can push that barrel and they'll spin then i know that the pivots are in their right holes and now i'm also looking and going hold on a second i actually can put on these pallet forks after the fact and they don't need to be on because here's the problem if i try to make the wheels spin they can't because they're connected to the pallet fork which has a locking jewel which holds them in place which is its entire job but it also means that i can't tell if these things are engaged properly or not because i need to be able to turn the barrel so that i can see the train of wheels spinning when the bridge is on so again it's another one of those things where you know you kind of sort it out as you go and i had made some assumptions about needing to put these on in different order and i didn't need to i could actually do it basically how i would do a swiss watch as it turns out now i can put this click on and if you look very closely at the very tip it actually sits on top of that little lip on the bridge and that's the part that i couldn't put the bridge over so there we go just like that good okay so let's get this automatic works reassembled now and as you can see i already have the gear kind of being clamped being held by those two pawls and so i'm just trying to delicately get the jewel at the base of those poles onto its post without having that little gear come off that that's my goal here and that needs to go in its pivot hole as well and then there's this plate that covers them i calling this a bridge might be a bit much but a plate or a bridge to kind of hold everything down it's very thin all right also need to make sure that we do any lubrication on this piece which goes on the pawls themselves because they actually do rub against the metal of the gear and increases increases their efficiency as well as the little jewel that holds it on now i can put the ratchet wheel on all right and that means that we can flip this thing over and start getting rolling on the other side so i'll start off with the canon pinion using a little bit of grease here unfortunately there's no great tool at least that i have to put these back on although i guess i could use the staking set that i have for it but that seems a bit of overkill for such a quick job so i just do it that way this is a sliding clutch now and i'm trying to get some grease on the end of it but it kind of wants to fall off perhaps putting it on the movement wasn't the best spot but the honest truth is i wanted you to be able to see it and if i do it off camera then then you can't that's why i'm that's why i hold the parts right next to the movement like this as well uh when i'm like this one like the stem when i'm putting the grease on the stem i got to include you right i mean you're hanging out with me helping me get through this thing you got to see what's going on all right here is the setting lever now again super easy to put this on because there's no screw on the bottom and i can get on with the yoke and the yoke spring after that one little tricky bit that i have to keep in mind too is the hack is see where the yoke is right now that long white metal part that i just installed opposite that on the other side is where the gold part of the hack sits and it actually sits in the same groove on the sliding clutch that this um yoke sits and that way it knows whether it's being pulled forward or back and that's how it stops the movement so when i put the sliding clutch in i had to be really careful to make sure that it engaged with the hack on the other side as well again a little bit of grease at the contact points for the spring there and now i can put the setting lever spring on and we are getting them right through this uh this build and i have to say very very very impressed by the design of this movement really um some of the innovations that are in this are super super clever and even for somebody like me who doesn't do this professionally i have been able to put this movement back together pretty well yeah i had a few hiccups you know that i expect to have but for the most part even when i did something out of order it was just a matter of taking it off and then putting it back on at the right time it has not it has not been one of those movements where you're just going i have no idea what they were thinking here like this was built to be serviced uh you just know it when you see it when you work on watches and this one definitely has that characteristic very impressed by this um you know they usually call these workhorse movements or movements that are just designed to be ran and ran and ran forever and i mean that's exactly what you have here very robust i can see why people love these seikos i think this is the only seiko i have in my collection though there's that plastic part i still don't get that if anybody knows other than cost cutting why you would use plastic parts in such a nice watch you can tell me but the good news is they apparently use really good plastic because it's hold it's held up for you know 40 years or whatever almost 50 years depending on when this one was actually manufactured one of the last cover plates to go on this side i've already put on that transmission wheel and this is a spring that clicks the calendar over that right there is what pushes on the calendar ring and then when it gets kind of right to the right point it goes thinking it clicks back over so what i need to do is move that spring out of the way and then get the calendar ring on but it also has to be hooked on on the other side so it's a little tricky because you kind of need two hands to do it but there we go just like that and now i'll go ahead and put this cover plate on and just get this all lined up by the way very astute watchmakers will notice something which i'll tell you in a minute [Laughter] first let's get this cover plate on though and now i want to see if the time setting and the calendar are working the calendar looks like it's working just fine but what about the time setting wait a second i can't see what the hour wheel's doing because i forgot to put it on it's sitting right next to my movement holder there it actually has been sitting there the whole time and uh i just forgot to put it over the canon pinion so again this isn't some major setback but it's one of those things where you kind of shake your head and go still learning still learning now we can put this cover back on properly and you can see the hour wheels even in there this time and we really are getting to the near the finishing stages here of servicing this movement hopefully getting this thing back on my wrist running a little better than it was before i knew it wasn't keeping amazing time but i actually didn't realize how bad it was it was running i mean the um the amplitude was like 133 i think pretty low all right so now we get to uh oil the the train wheels here and i'm trying to show you how i do it it's a little tricky to do under the microscope but you get the idea here the hardest part is getting the correct amount in and i'm kind of hit or miss with that you know you don't want to fill up that little cup there that would be way too much you want to be able to see that there's oil in it but not have too much and it is a very tricky process even when you do it under a microscope the hardest part is actually getting enough oil on the the thing i'm also going to go ahead and show you how i put the pallet forks on under the microscope because it's a little easier to do this way and i figured you might like to have a look at it because again that pivot that you can see is just tiny so the tricky bit here is you have to get the pivot in the bottom hole and then you also have to have the pallet fork kind of stand up so that it's lined up with the escape wheel now i can bring this bridge in and then what i'm going to try to do is line up that pivot hole with the jewel on the top before i kind of press it down and you can see it's almost in there but it needs to come through that hole before we can tighten it down so one way you can do it is to manipulate the pallet fork underneath it by maybe pushing on it here a little bit and there you go that's what you want to see now i can screw that down which i did and it is time to put in the balance let's see if this thing will run for us again it should i mean this was a running watch before but yeah come on you never really know and we'll get this screw lined up here similar story there we just want to make sure that the pivots are lined up before we go too crazy with screwing it down and if i release the hack there it goes we have a running watch so that is of course always what we love to see i did expect it it was running before i took it apart i have now taken it apart and oiled it so it should be running better one of the last tasks we hear that we have here though is we need to do what i talked about before we need to clean the cap jewels on the balance so that's on the top of the balance in the bottom and these seikos have these kind of weird little springs i can't remember what they're called but these little tri springs they have three different contact points and the way that you get them out is you actually turn them and then hope that they don't go flying away that's kind of that's what i've been that's what i've been doing and this one did go flying away the good news is it just flew down on the bottom of the microscope no big deal so now i can take some radical to take out the cap jewel which is actually two parts there's a cap jewel and then a jewel setting that's the jewel setting that i just took out of the one dip one dip is a solvent we used to clean these parts and now the cap jewel needs a tiny little droplet of oil so you can see i'm getting in there with the loop and getting a drop of oil that covers about 30 to 40 percent of it and then you can place the setting on it upside down turn it back over and boom put it right back in the watch now i need to get the spring back on here as well and the way to do this well i'll be honest i've only ever seen people do this so this will be my first attempt at it but i've seen uh both mark over at watch repair channel do it and i've also seen mike over at my retro watches do it a bunch of times and he hates doing it so i was kind of uh holding my breath here but let's see how it goes you basically just turn it you get one of the uh spring lips underneath that uh that groove and then you just turn it gently and carefully like that yes yes a little bit further hey we did it you know what i gotta say not that bad yeah it went flying off on me at first but it wasn't that bad but now that i say that i get to do it again so this one's on the bottom and this is actually the same style of spring but it's even smaller you can see there's a little bit of dirt under that lip as well a little bit of radical in there to kind of clean it up probably wouldn't hurt but again i'm just trying to be very very careful with these as i haven't worked with these type of springs much before i'm used to the swiss style ones the inca block or similar but this gentle turning motion isn't too bad and it seems fairly logical and look at me look who's getting better at this no flying springs this time just a little bit erotico to take out the jewel setting and actually this time it took the cap jewel off so you get a chance to see what the setting looks like underneath separated from it and i did the same process of putting that drop of oil on it and now i can put it back in and once again we get to do a little turning game here with the with the shock spring this is done on a microscope as you can see and i do that with a lot of these small parts i really do find that it helps me understand how they work and what i'm doing a little better than using a loop although the microscope can be a little finicky to work on does make the tweezers look huge though this little tiny spring two out of three really just trying to take my time with this too and not not rush anything i don't need to bend this or have this one go flying off so there we go you know i think i'm getting the hang of these seriously they're not that bad not too bad at all okay now we need to put the automatic works on so this is what will wind the watch when we're just walking around and that actually engages with the winding portion of the watch and then we can put on the winding rotor again this is a weighted rotor that is designed to spin it's designed to to react to gravity easily that's what it's that's what its whole job on this planet is dead simple construction here as well just one screw to hold the thing on no special tools needed nothing and now i can do a quick test to make sure that it's actually winding the watch when i turn it one way and the other and it looks like everything's good so we can get the dial out and start to put that back on really is a sweet dial i mean yeah it's not particularly fancy but it is extremely legible and has a real kind of style to it you see this a lot on a lot of seiko watches have a similar design so now i'm bringing the calendar just to midnight you know it's midnight because the um the calendar turns over so now i can put the hands on at exactly midnight and then when midnight happens in real life the calendar will turn right over at that time so the hour hand's going to go on first i'm just using a little hand pressing tool and then of course you always want to check the clearance of it to make sure that it's not hitting anything or scraping and a little bit of radical just to clean up the hands just in case they get any oh just smudges or dirt on them these ones are very old so i'm not going to make them look i'm not going to be polishing them or anything um for a vintage watch like this i prefer generally speaking to keep it original but i don't mind cleaning up the hand a little bit with radical if they've got any little smudges or dirt on them okay the minute hand goes on we'll give it a quick test and bang right at midnight the calendar turns over the hands aren't bumping into each other looks perfect now we can put the seconds hand on okay now we need to get this watch back in the case so that of course means once again taking the crown out and the stem this is a case ring that makes sure that the movement doesn't slip around once it's in the case when it comes to casing it i usually like to use a little bit of microfiber cloth and blower to get any dust or smudges off of the inside of the crystal because i don't know about you but they would drive me completely bonkers if there was smudge or dirt on the inside of the crystal outside i can clean up no problem then i use my casing cushion to put the movement back in no big deal and we can put the crown is and again one of the huge design elements um from this watch is that the crown sits down there at four o'clock and that is just a totally crazy place to put the crown but it makes it look totally different and then it has that rounded crown guard and kind of rounded case on it again this is a locking crown you just give it a little half turn extra and it locks now there's a this is a diver watch and while i don't take it diving for multiple reasons one i don't dive really i never have at least or i guess i have a little bit in my life but not routinely um but also you know they use these big gaskets right um and again the other reason is because it's a vintage watch and i don't know if it's waterproof um but i'm just greasing up the gasket there that's like a silicone grease that kind of um lubricates it and make sure that the the gasket is conditioned so that it doesn't get cracks or anything like that and that means that i can put the case back on and i'll use this rubber ball i love this thing now if i want to tighten down the case properly i'll have to put it back on my case tightener but for now i can just tighten it down by hand with that and then we'll get a strap put on it as well i've had a few different straps for this often i'll use it i'll wear it on a nato strap but i've been wearing it on this nice leather strap for a while now um and i've been enjoying it it's very comfortable again i've mentioned them before not not a sponsorship or anything but uh bulong and sons um is are the straps that i like when i want to get a nice strap nice mid mid-range you know they're not cheap but they're not 500 straps that kind of thing and there you go there is the seiko 6105 captain willard ticking away in all its glory a beautiful watch and a tool a true tool watch with a lot of history and heritage behind it and it's a watch i'm proud to own and i really like to wear let's see how it does on the time grapher hey that amplitude's much better up to 200 degrees i i'm not sure if that's great for this or not but it's certainly better than 133 and as you can see the line is much better as well i've got the beat error down to nothing and the rate minus 5 to plus three seconds a day looks fine to me and we're done so this thing can go back on my wrist and back into the outdoors where it belongs and uh yeah that is going to do it for the seiko 6105 captain willard i absolutely adore this watch again i think it's the only seiko that i own but i'm really proud to own it um i highly recommend picking one up if it's in range for you uh look they're they're collectible they even released a new version of this one that's a recreation of it using modern materials but if it were me i'd still go with the old the old faithful the uh the vintage version that's gonna do it for this one i want to thank you for taking the time to hang out with me i really appreciate all the feedback comments and everything that you give me uh it really has been fun to explore the watch channel and to learn watchmaking with you if you want to find out more in between videos you can check out instagram i have a instagram there called wristwatch underscore revival where i post uh in between project updates and photos and stuff like that so with that we'll see in the next video bye-bye

Channel: Wristwatch Revival

Views: 117,842

Rating: 4.8916073 out of 5

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Id: Xy61XL21BJ4

Length: 48min 57sec (2937 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 07 2020