Toyota/Lexus A25A-FKS Teardown… It’s COMPLETELY SEIZED! Will this become a Common Problem?

hey YouTube Welcome Back to Wise Guys Garage in today's video we're going to be taking a look at Toyota's a25a engine now this engine was originally offered on Toyota's lineup back in 2018 and is widely used across multiple different applications all the way from their midsize sedans to SUVs to pretty much anything even including minivans this one came out of a 2019 Toyota Camry had about 123,000 miles and according to the previous owner got extremely hot now the only thing I've done to this thing is I put the water pump back onto the engine that's why the bolts look a little weird and I also put the uh crank pulley back on and I did try to turn this thing over it is completely locked up I did notice there's no spark plugs on it obviously there's no exhaust made of full because they would have to reuse that and there's a couple hoses missing here and there and then the throttle body as well but other than that the engine is pretty much complete I'm going to go ahead and start on the valve cover it looks like in order to take this valve cover off I'm going to have to get this out of the way so this engine does feature uh d4s and what that basically means is it's got direct injection and regular port or fuel injection that way this is just the direct injection pump that actually rides off a cam that's located directly underneath this valve [Music] cover it looks like they use thread Locker on that that's really interesting all I know is I can guarantee you in a rusty climate those things are going to be a bear to replace that's probably not holding the Val cover in look at that that's pretty neat looks like the other end of the fuel line is is right right here so I'm probably going to have to get this water neck out of the way and then whatever this breather is or this baffle so it looks like this component is being held in with a couple 12 mm bolts located here here and then here as well and then it's got a rubber hose located to where I believe which goes to the heater core there he goes we'll just let that dangle for now get out the trusty Ling pliers gently remove this hose clamp and then she's free that's actually pretty cool looking I don't know if it'll show up on camera but it's got like this blue metallic effect on the back side of it that's pretty awesome oh so that looks like it's an EGR valve yep so that's what that was has nothing to do with coolant my apologies this looks like it's a full assembly for one of the cams so we're just going to leave that alone for now or this might actually be a vacuum pump interesting let's take more bolts off next up looks like in order to get this water neck off we're going to have have to remove that 8 mm bolt and there's one hidden right behind here now I can finally get that fuel line off now that that fuel line's out of the way we can finally get this valve cover off there's a nice little spot right here okay so it looks like these actually do hold the valve cover in I just can't believe they use thread Locker on there especially for sensors and a valve cover gasket so first Peak underneath the valve cover it seems to be pretty clean in here it looks like they have the oil feed lines that lubricate the cams that go from there and then you have the two cam shaft position sensors located here and it's completely plastic first looks everything seems to be in pretty good shape it's very very clean in here looks like it got some pretty frequent oil changes but I did notice some coolant being present in the oil you can kind of see that right there on the bottom looks like there's some scoring on the cam shafts that could be normal but no Rockers are out of place no springs appear to be sitting low everything seems to be okay first thing I'm going to do is crack these cam Caps loose so in order to continue with removing the cams we're going to have to mess with the time you opponents in order to do that the timing covers got to come off so it looks like we got for the passenger side motor mount there's a couple 14 mm bolts a lot of 12s holding it in there we obviously got to get this crank bolt out I believe these sensors do not have to be removed but we'll find out that in a second and it should be able to come off after [Music] that I'm going to go ahead and start with the 14s right here now we're going to go ahead and move on to the 12s these bolts aren't really that tight which I'm very surprised just going to get that weird 8 mm bolt off that's the sound of Freedom right there taking a quick peek at the timing cover this thing is really really clean there does not seem to be any metal or forbiding glitter in here but we are definitely seeing signs of water still on the inside of this thing like most Toyotas the timing chain setup is extremely simple you have one tensioner that's located on the big timing chain set and then on this side this is like a timing chain guide and all this basically does is give the chain a nice place for it to ride against and prevent any excessive wear because you really can't have metal against metal and that's why this is plastic then on the lower chain this connects to what I would assume is the balance shaft it's got a cool little spring tensioner that's on the right hand side that you can see right here it actually doesn't really have that much forced against it but I'm assuming they thought it was enough we're going to go ahead and start with the tensioner of course it's an 8 mil not really a ton of wear this thing stinks it smells terrible yeah so it is actually supposed to be two different colors you can see the plastic the way it is right here these are just always so neat to me it's got spring pressure in it still but as it builds oil pressure this thing builds hydraulic pressure and it pushes against the chain a little bit more than the way it is right now that's what I was afraid was going to happen let's go ahead and get this guide out real quick huh that's pretty neat it's literally just a little spring and the chain rides against this as it does on the top and the side here and again this is just to make sure there's enough tension against that chain on the bottom just so this thing's not flinging around everywhere man that was tight let's go ahead and get this chain off real quick maybe a little persuasion there we go so it actually looks like there's a second cover like an inner one and this is all held in with a bunch of 12 mm bolts again seems like this engine's favorite bolt is a 12 so I'm go ahead and crack these loose and we'll peel this one off too okay so before we actually get this cover off on the right hand side it looks like we can finally take the cam girdle out now Toyota is famous for doing this ever since like the 2 AR and whatnot that this entire cap comes off so if there is wear and tear on this you can just replace the cam girdle and has the lower and upper portions for it and it can come out as an entire assembly so there's only a couple more bolts left to do that looks like we got to get this bolt out for the oil dipstick and whatever this thing is we should be good to go that's actually brilliant look how small that dip stick tube is it sticks right on top of the engine that's freaking awesome so a little bit of science behind the valve train is you got a roller rocker right here and then a small little hydraulic lifter that comes out of these guys that kind of looks like this this builds oil pressure and it sits in this cup like that and it prevents it and removes all the Lash as this thing's running now we should be good to get this bad boy off next up we're going to remove this intake just a bunch of 12 Ms going to go ahead and remove the direct injectors yeah I can't get this plug off so I'm just going to remove it that way there we go looks like it's a little spring plate I was sitting right there like that and pop this guy off real quick okay so it looks like you can leave these with the head so I'm going to go ahead and do that taking a look in the intake ports you know even for port injection these things seem to be extremely dirty they have a little bit of a clean area right there but that's about it I can say they seem to be even in the carbon even though it's still extremely bad I am seeing some coolant in the corner there right above that intake valve well we could say the cylinder head bolts were quite tight yes I know you're not supposed to use Chrome sockets but every one of my uh black or impact sockets I have have are only 6 point and these cylinder head bolts are 12.12 mm every single one of these sockets are either cracked warped out or completely snapped off all these are broken just because of one cylinder head bolt surprisingly the cylinder head doesn't look too bad granted I did just spray it down with some brake clean on the bottom half but I'm not seeing any piston to cylinder head impacts or signs of that anywhere I will say it got very very hot that to me is just absolutely unbelievable same thing with this one this one isn't as bad but you can definitely see it this piston does actually Rock back and forth so it is sort of free I don't think this is the reason why it's locked up and the same thing with this one this one also moves this way and rotates ever so slightly left and right so that tells me it's not completely seized in the cylinder wall but that is an issue there's also a coolant restrictor that's supposed to be located inside of this that it literally restricts exactly like the name of it is called the amount of coolant that goes up to the cylinder head that got so hot that it was melted let me show you that is not supposed to look like that all these bubbles is literally from this thing melting apart it's got some G in there so which tells me the head gasket obviously was not in good condition you can see all of that there but this thing was literally melted to the cylinder block that's why it's broken the rest of it's in there that's obviously never going to come out again but oh my goodness this had a hit 300° F I'm pretty sure that's when this plastic melts could actually be higher the intake manifold and the valve cover are made of the exact same stuff so it's it's extremely heat resistant for plastic but it is not supposed to look like this now that we got everything off the top end and then the timing cover off on the front let's get these accessories off this isn't the original AC compressor for this car I just had it laying around and I put it on there to just show where it's located so one thing I'm not a big fan of on these engines is this thing has a completely electric water pump I am led to believe this is the cause of this engine failure I bet you this thing just completely seized up and is no longer functioning and that is just the way it is unfortunately so once the electric water pumps fail which I've heard are now starting to be pretty common when this stops working that's it like it doesn't pump any liquid at all through whatsoever unlike a belt driven water pump where that will still somewhat move fluid even though like the bearings or something failed it'll make a crapload of noise and it'll give you a warning sign before it's completely gone looks like right here we have a crankshaft position sensor couple 12s hold this oil baffle in place and I believe once that's removed and disconnecting the noock sensor that's right here this whole all these wires and everything should come off the engine block completely I am running EXT extremely low on 12 mm now and that one's not in good shape anymore either that a puff of smoke one more 12 looks like holding in the oil pan is a bunch of 10 mm go ahead and zip all these out real quick this bad boy is really stuck on there so looks like the next step is to remove the the balance shafts located right here there's two eights right here we got an eight here this is the oil pickup tube this must be the oil pump got to take these two 12 out there too couple 14s and this guy should come out oh that's freaking sweet all right let's get the rest of this oil pump off right here here there's two more bolts way down there all right and crack this up uh there's not one on this side that's sort of this seems to be moving pretty freely let's give it a go there it is all right so that looks like it revealed the crankshaft and the main caps now one thing that Toyota always does is if you look at your engine block it's going to have some numbers stamped on it somewhere uh depending on what engine it is and whatnot they always Mark what the bearing clearances are for this crankshaft and this engine block specifically so this engine the a25a runs on like 0 w14 something ridiculously thin there is very very little clearance between the connecting rod bearings main bearings and the crank and the rod caps so that's why these numbers here are very very small and that's the reason why it can run you know very thin fluid okay so I went ahead and took this one out I'm going to go ahead and just change my gloves because they got completely torn up so the last one actually moved yeah this one moves too all right so now I should be able to rotate the crank well here it is this oil pump again same thing not seeing too much wear in there it's got a little bit of a dirty oil in there but you know for an engine that got extremely hot i' say it's not too bad main Maring caps that little dirt and spectacles in there were from me but the scuff marks that you see on the bearing surfaces that's what was there I mean you would expect that you do get some sort of wear when the engine's running nothing perfect so the Pistons let's take a look this one I'll be honest that was me I broke it into it that was from Hammer the rods I'm able to confirm these are forged they are a little bit on the daky side they're very thin but the bearings that are in there they look great I mean again there's some surface scuffs but nothing crazy the tolerances on this engine since it uses very thin oil are absolutely insane so that's just one thing to consider same thing with these you know they all seem to be in pretty dang good shape this piston again might had something to do with the hammer but these are worthless anyway it's not a big deal this was not me this got so hot that the Piston expanded in the cylinder wall and melted against it that's just crazy to me same thing with this one I don't even know what got on top of that but those chunks that are missing in the Piston that's because it got that hot crankshaft looks absolutely flawless I don't see a single issue with this thing not even a scuff mark the only wear is where the rear main seal actually rides that's it to me that's just you know incredible the block didn't fa too well I mean that was me but this vertical scoring that's a lot of wear that's the rest of that piston same thing with that one so for the verdict I'm going to be honest I don't think this engine failure was really due to lack of Maintenance I just God's honest truth I really think the water pump just failed and got to the point where it just was not pumping fluid and I think the a25a engine design overall is actually pretty neat there's a couple things I don't like about it uh there's nothing wrong with the plastic valve cover I just think over time especially in those uh Rusty areas where you have the bolts that go through that have Loctite on them a the the Fastener on the head's a little small it's an 8 mil now which I've never seen a Toyota engine ever before as well as the Fred Locker on it and you know the have the corrosion come into play I think that's just going to be a faulty thing that's you know it's going to be one of those high dollar items that you just really can't find anywhere just because everybody has the same ISS kind of thing you know uh the other thing that I didn't like as well is the electric water pump obviously because I think that's really the cause of failure here now I know mentioned it earlier in the video where I was saying like if your water pump is failing it still kind of moves fluid and what I'm referring to is failing as it like leaks out of the little wee pole and uh you hear noise like it's not going to be like a either on or off kind of thing you do have a warning before it actually goes complete capoy that kind of thing is the only reason why I'm not a big fan of electric water pumps now you can go with without power steering you can go without an alternator even for a little bit but you really can't go more than like a mile or two especially if the engine's already at operating temperature without a water pump you know what I'm saying well guys that's pretty much going to sum up for this week's video I know it's been a little bit since I uploaded last but I had a lot of different projects come up at pretty much all the exact same time uh I'm still waiting on a couple hoses for the AC to get working on the MR2 uh I got the Celica pretty much buttoned so stay tuned for that video but I hope you guys really enjoyed this content I this was just like an out of the blue thing I was on Facebook Marketplace I saw it for sale for a really cheap price and I figured why not make a video on it to fill in for you all so I hope you guys really like the content make sure you leave a like comment subscribe and I'll see you in the next one

Channel: Wise Guyz Garage

Views: 6,740

Keywords: Toyota, A25A, Lexus, Camry, Sienna, Highlander, Avalon, Aurion, RAV4, Hybrid, D4S, Melted, Overheated, Water Pump, Engine, Teardown

Id: lqBlZY28LMk

Length: 29min 34sec (1774 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 27 2024