Tormek DBS-22 Drill Bit Sharpening Attachment

hello I'm al Holtham welcome to my workshop where today I'm going to show you a brilliant jig for sharpening twist drills on your tormek water-cooled grinder although most of us are happy to invest quite heavily in equipment for sharpening majority of hand tools you don't have to look around here to see that the humble twist drill is often overlooked and we tend to soldier on with blunt and inaccurate bits mainly I think because the complex geometry on the point make some very difficult sharpen by hand unless you're really skilled the DBS 22 makes it so easy to produce precise cutting edges on twist drills at a variety of different point and clearance angles and of course with a DBS 22 you have all the advantages of the tormak wet grinding system so no danger of overheating you're not going to get micro cracks on the cutting edge or draw the temper however the one real advantage is you can now create a bit with a four facet cutting edge with a single central point rather than the chisel point of a conventional ground to facet bit let me show you the difference this is a standard two facet bit if you look closely you can see the two facets result in a chisel point compare this with a four facet bit which as you can see has a single central point and this will stop it walking when you first touch it to work particularly if it's a very hard piece how many times have you tried to start a conventional drill only tell it scoot sideways when you first touch it to the work that just doesn't happen with a four facet bit in its central point also requires a lot less force to get it started which minimizes overheating and prolongs the cutting life so this is a DBS 22 I must admit when I first got it I thought all this looks if it's gonna be really complicated and fiddly to set up honestly it really isn't it's actually very very quick if you do get stuck there's a really good instruction manual with it as with all tormek products the jig is beautifully engineered just look at the quality of the machining and the castings and these components and their gauges and templates for all the necessary settings and to my mind this is actually the key this sort of quality is essential to ensure the two cutting edges are perfectly matched are you wasting your time if you want the finished bit to drill a precisely sized and straight hole you're even supplied with a magnifier to help me set up the smaller sized bits because this jig will actually handle bits from three millimeters up to 22 millimeters that's one a thorn in CH up to 7/8 of an inch and what's more the jig will fit any tour mate machine so if you've got an older model don't worry the DBS 22 will still fit since I'm a look at the jig in some detail this is the drill bit holder see winding the knob in and out clumps the drill bit no matter what size in the jaws there now this sits on a guide plate here and then the whole assembly locates onto a base plate that fits on the universal support on the tormek and locks with this knob here and you can see the hole on the base plate is elongated this is for the tour lock system which gives you incredible grip with minimal amount of effort from the knob this little gage sets the distance of the universal support from the stone and also sets the clearance angle and there's also a little tube with special lubricant for the slides so let's give it all a go and I'll show you just how easy it is to set up and use by sharpening this rather tatty 10 millimeter bit the first stage is to use this template to set the universal support about 40 millimeters away from the stone so slide into place move in the universal support and lock up tight then fit the base plate the tour lock makes it very easy to get secure and mount the guide plate you can see now the importance of the lubricant on the slide it makes it so smooth to move from side to side now you have to fit the drill bit into the holder fitting it so the beveled edge points towards the wheel the necessary protrusion is set using this stop on the guide plate again it's not critical just make sure it is actually locked securely there's really only one critical bit in the setting up process and that is you now have to rotate the bit until the cutting edges are parallel with these lines on the jig here and that ensures that when you cut your primary and secondary facets they end up parallel so just slacking it off a bit and rotate until those cutting edges are parallel now if your sharpening really small bits this critical alignment can actually be quite difficult to see in which case use the magnifiers provided with the jig it just sits on top of the holder you can look through the image is very very much bigger there's also an alignment pin inside that helps you get the cutting edge parallel to those marks that alignment set just do a quick check to make sure you haven't hold to the amount of protrusion unlock the rubber top nice and tight now I need to set the clearance angle and this can vary depending on the director of the bit and the type of material in we're drilling but there is a chart of recommendations on the side of the template most trails of this diameter for general purpose work need a clearance angle of 14 degrees so tilt the plate until the two wings of the template of the 14 degree end just touch on the stone and lock it up tight point angle is nearly always 118 degrees but check this in the gauges on the side of the plate and then set it with this scale here you'll see the scale actually goes from 150 degrees right round to 90 degrees but in reality you'll hardly ever use anything other than 118 degrees okay so now we're ready to go put the bit holder on to guide plate so the lug touches the stop marked P for primary facet then widen the setting screw until the bit is about one millimeter clear of the stone and then start up so now zero the cutting depth by just winding in until a bit just touches the stone and switch off now can set the amount of metal I want to grind away from the tip one revolution of the adjuster here moves the drill bit in half a millimeter so I'm going to start with that there is a marker on the barrel there so I can see how much of a turn I've put on and put on one full revolution and then lock it with a locking not there and now I'm ready to start grinding so just ease the drill bit back a fraction start up with your fingers and the recess is on the plate slide the drill bit forward to starts to cut and then move from side to side because of the slow revolution speed of the stone and the fact is water-cooled you have complete control on this process and there's no sparks or burning so a few wipes from side to side and eventually the cut will start tailing off quite quickly you get the stage players only pray intermittent contact just the odd pie spot on the stone and you've effectively ground up facet the required depth so then just take the holder off turn it over make sure you're up against the P stop and then repeat the procedure for the other side it's very quick unless you've got a lot of material to take away to drill which is great blunt or badly damaged that's starting to tail off now I take this off and have a look-see we've ground the two primary facets but these have come together in the middle to form a chisel point we now need to convert this to a really sharp point by grinding on secondary facets once again this is very straightforward just drop the plate down a little bit put the drill holder back in place but this time set it so the lug is in contact with a stop marked s then just raise the plate until a heel of the drill just touches on the stone and lock it up tight and now to set some depth of cut just turn this adjuster I'm going to turn it a full turn which will give me half a millimeter and see how we go with that and then the grinding process is exactly the same just keep grinding forward until the lug engages on the stop and then turn over exactly the same as we did with a primary facet you just about there now just stop and have a look not quite there with a point we're just going to go fraction further so just wind on a little bit more on that stop and just repeat the procedure for both facets so many fractions turnover and there we are a perfect for facet bit the perfect center point really is that easy when you're finished any burr can be removed on the leather honing wheel you've now got precision ground and sharp bit which will drill a perfectly sized hole if you're sharpening really small down into bits it might be worth just reducing the coarseness of the stone using the stone grader knock you back to a thousand grit just a little bit less aggressive there's really small downer to bits you can however use a standard stone for sharpening tungsten carbide bits these of course only need one primary facet so very quick very easy to do however if they need a lot of serious reshaping or the very big diameter bits it might be worth investing in a black stone instead so that's the DBS 22 drill sharpening jig I know it's taking a while to show you and describe the sharpening process natural fact once you get used to it it's very quick and very simple also gives you complete versatility as regards the point and clearance angles you should never again have to struggle forcing a blunt drill bit you can also restore damaged bits so as well as a convenience it's going to save you a fortune in buy replacements to my mind it's worth a serious look until next time bye bye for now you

Channel: Alan Holtham

Views: 1,870,550

Rating: 4.6033139 out of 5

Keywords: instruction, +Alan, Holtham, +drill, bit, sharpening, +sharpening, +Tormek

Id: fSUa1iFUzkM

Length: 14min 33sec (873 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 07 2010