Tool Post Drill Jig

[Music] hi I'm Everett welcome back to the shop so first off I have had a few people ask me about stickers and as I said before I've just been messing around here building stuff and working on a few cars and such and taking video would have been doing but you know people have been asking if I had a sticker to share or whatever so I got they finally came in and he may have noticed on the intro that the logo has changed a bit my buddy Morgan is a graphics designer and he came up with this idea here I kind of think he did a decent job of it and I don't have a drill guide for the for a drill truck to be able to drill into the face of something mounted in the truck so that's where this little guys coming in I drew it up again it's not a very complex plan trickiest it'll be the dovetail and even then that's that it's not a big deal really I have a Jacobs drill drill chuck that will go on this end here so that's what we're up against this time so anyway enough chatting let's get to building something well let Herald says first step is grab the bandsaw [Music] [Applause] there we go I'm gonna rough using the 3/4 inch end mill and then I'm going to use the flat cutter to make a nice finish we're gonna start with the start with this surface here and go from there so what we're gonna do is we're just going to touch off with a 3/4 inch end mill I just want to get below the scale on this side there we go I just want to get below the scale on this side and then once we get below the scale by safe you know 50,000 per [Music] [Music] 10,000th see what does [Music] all right not bad certainly better finish than it was with the end mill so I need to do a few rough and passes to bring it down close to one and three-quarter inches thick we're going to do our final passes with the fly cutter what I'll do is I mean you don't really want to watch me square a block I mean there are lots of videos on YouTube for how to square block so I'm just going to pause it here and we'll bring it down to thickness so we're gonna have to rough this and then we'll take the flat cutter and clean this end up as well all right yeah right there you point 501 three point five nine nine yeah so with how accurate these can be yeah it's so according to it we're within a thousandth or so well within tolerance so I'll have to do is deeper this guy and then we can move on to the layeth part so after a little bit of filling and farting and adjusting this in the four jaw Chuck what I've gotten is in this in this dimension here it's now centered and we've offset it to the one side by about an eighth of an inch now if you can actually I donno if you can see but the machine itself is actually shaking so get her whole started for us both fields taste reasonably straight alright that's about as deep as I can go with that drill bit that other short stubby drill bit was a 5.5 millimeter this here is a quarter inch so it's a slightly larger bit but it'll follow that hole down that hole is established should be established as reasonably straight great there we go she's through I got a half inch drill bit in that's her next step they were through [Music] we're through well as much as I hate having to do this I don't even I don't have a 4760 for us drill bit to pre-drill before reaming I was hoping to remit to final size and the boring bar I do have what the longer one won't fit and the narrower one is too skinny it's just not going to reach I'm just gonna drill it I'm making the bushings anyway so if I went up a few thousandths over 750 then I can make the bushings to suit so as much as I hate having to do this this is what I have at the moment with tooling because I'm not about to buy a forty seven sixty fourth drill bit for one project so here we go seeing as it's my project for a tool I'm going to be using I'll take it up with my own engineering department there you go we're through Oh seeing as the whole wound up being 763,000 Cecrops we're gonna have to make the bushing a little bit thicker again I would have liked to reamed it but I just don't really have the tooling at this point and I thought I did not a big deal we can still make this project work so what I'm gonna do is I need to turn the outside of this brass down to 764 thousands because I want about a thousandth worth of interference we're going to turn that down and then we're going to drill and ream the inside of this to a little over half an inch I have a have a reamer that does 501 so we'll see how that works and if I have to I'll polish the 4140 shaft that's going to go into it [Music] Wow yep that's brass gets everywhere hmm I'm gonna try different tool give me a minute that's a little better here we go yeah that's 764 and a half that's okay all right time for a 5:01 reamer slaughter right down here we go [Laughter] so here I have my piece of 4140 shafting then when you use for the wall the shaft and I feel air compressions and I get sectioned just very very light amount of play I like that fit because with a little bit of oil that will guide and still slide inside so good good let's double check here and that looks yeah pretty much 1 inch there's one all righty two bushings so there we go there are two bushings I will just need to take the little burr off the end of the inside bore there I'll just use the hand tool for that and then we can press them into the body square there you go bushing number two let's go see how this fits well in the interests of full disclosure here what I found after pressing the bushings in is that I lost that thousandth worth of clearance I wasn't sure if I was going to I was kind of curious seeing as it was only a one thought prep it on the outside but I did so rather than try to line that up and ream it out again I polished the shaft I just polished the shaft again I went from 500 to 498 498 and a half and she now slides through quite nicely little bit snug but that's okay I'd rather it start out snug and loosen up over time the thing is this is actually going to be oiled as well I'm gonna they're gonna be a couple of oil ports in it to lubricate it so this will work just fine for what my purposes are so a while back on ebay I grabbed one of those boxes of a gazillion assorted machinists parts and you know they have all sorts of crazy tabs on there as far as description and it just so happened that there was a 3/8 Jacob's Chuck in the in the bin there it's got a 3/8 24 thread in the back as far as threading it on to a drill and so we're going to do is going to take this half inch shaft we're going to put threads on it space.this in so I got me three eighths twenty four died and I have the starting side this way that way that can bring away chuck up against it so theoretically I should slide in there register up against that back which it does there so we've just found the edge right there I've zeroed my dial on this side and that up turn this off now so I should be right about there will be yeah yeah that's that's our centerline next step is we're going to have to cut a groove down square in between these two marks between one inch 60 thousandths and two inch for 40 from this end that's we're going to cut that groove and then from there we're going to start making our dovetail this grooc we have to cut is going to be one inch 380 across or went one inch 380,000 sakra half of that is 690,000 our cutter is a 753 so what we need to do is move over the the offset of that we're already three-eighths of an inch cutting on this side of the centerline so the difference between 375 and six ninety s 350 and thousands even just eyeballing that that puts our cutting edge right on the line we drew so at this point we're going to cut down the groove to two 412 here we'll have to move back to Center and then offset and take up our backlash and deal with the other side after that it's the same we get the basic idea we're gonna have to do this a number of passes it's gonna take a while doing it at 30,000 for past but with it would end mill this size that's about all this machine will handle about laundry so I'm gonna pause the cameras they'll bring out back in when we're pretty much there now that that's all cut and the air compressors finally shut itself off here's our here's our groove just dragging there just to have clearance there we'll call that call that our zero I don't smoke but those cigarette papers come in really handy so anything I move this way we're gonna start dialing in a cut on the bottom of the groove so what we'll do is we'll just start off light here let's go Norway say let's do a 30 thousandths cut I'd rather take light cuts and be easy on the cutter this is going to take a while so what I'm going to do is I'm going to pause the camera bring it back in a little bit later all right so that's both sides ruff we're gonna grab some gate quarter-inch pins and then we're gonna do is the gauge pin measurements between the two dovetail angles I don't have any sets of precision gauge pins closest I have are a couple known good name-brand milling cutters those are going to be our quarter inch gauge pins we're looking for a measurement of one inch eighty one thousandths between the pins and right now we're sitting at well one inch huh 1 inch 83 I think we're gonna leave it at that well I guess the proof is in the pudding if it fits on the tool post and I kind of like that I think that'll work oh we're sir a little bit of motion lotion as my uncle mark calls it no that's the bottom of the hole all right there you go [Music] [Music] [Music] hey there you go pull that little just have to give her this little burr on the backside and I got ourselves a knob now even though I used a bottoming tap in here it's not going to reach the exact exact bottom of the hole so that bottom thread is now jammed into the bottom of the hole effectively locking the stud in place next up comes our adjuster knob a little bent washer and we're going to use one of those nuts as the lock for for a quick change now it's time to set it up I don't know what's going to be Center so we're gonna have to figure that out what I was thinking would be a useful trick with this particular little tool here is using the live Center in the tailstock to help line this thing up so theoretically if we leave that for the quick change loose and that for the quick change loose if we need to find the center because if we're gonna be drilling offset holes we have to have some some point of reference right so if we bring this up let me tighten up our tail stock we should just be able to Snug our post snug that place bring that down and we should be centered so now say that this piece here we need to drill three holes offset so you know it cuz you're using a three jaw Chuck three holes offset from the center by 3/8 of an inch rock the cross slide a little bit of Lube I'm just gonna use 7590 gear oil in our little oil pockets yeah yeah now you can see that the shop is now oiled and it is sliding very nicely very very little play there you go well that took a little bit of time to get done just simply because of the fact that I have to work around my son's nap and feeding schedules and well chasing around the house and making sure he stays out of trouble so when he's napping that's and I get to come down and play but yeah overall I'm actually pretty happy with how this thing turned out as I say there's very very little play in that in that bushing there between the bushing and the shaft yeah dovetail came out nicely I'm actually pretty tickled with this thing the thing is I needed this tool to be able to do the next job which is one of the jobs that have to do for uncle Tim otherwise thanks for watching thanks for subscribing and I'll see you next time [Music] [Music]

Channel: Everett's Workshop

Views: 317,205

Keywords: everett's workshop, hobby machining, milling machine, tool post drill, metal lathe, home built tool, shop made equipment, fly cutting, cutting dovetail, jacobs chuck, drilling on a lathe, lathe offset drilling

Id: 1GI4YqGtqTc

Length: 24min 29sec (1469 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 25 2018