TIG vs MIG Welding Sheet Metal - How & When to Use Them!! Roadster Hood + Cowl (Part 3)

what's up everybody welcome back to make it custom I'm Carl Fisher today I've got a video on MIG welding versus TIG welding I think there's a lot of information we can cover there kind of comparing the two and I just want to show you guys where I like to use TIG welding versus MIG welding and I've got a great example that's about to happen when we're working on this model late so I've got these panels that I'd like to install and we made in the last video we pressed these out to finish the bead on the hood and I've also got a bead that I would like to delete from the cowl and fill a cowl light hole and extend this body line so I'm going to show you guys a little bit of MiG welding versus TIG welding in this video on the model A so don't forget to like hit subscribe and notifications if you haven't yet let's get into the video foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] so I've already got these pieces made so I'm going to go ahead and make the pieces for this and we're gonna kind of I'm thinking right now that I might do these both at the same time I might work on this and this at the same time so that we're fitting both pieces at the same time we're welding both pieces at the same time just to kind of I don't know if that's going to help but that's what I'm thinking so I'm going to go ahead and make a bit of a template of this area and I'm going to cut out a piece of metal so that we can weld it in with make on the cowl and we're going to use TIG on the hood [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] all right so what I ended up doing is uh modifying another set of dies that I had these were step dies they had uh just a little bit of a notch on them and I never once used that exact step it was just this tiny little step and what I always used it for was just tipping so I was always riding on this edge of the wheel and this back Edge so the depth of that really doesn't matter when you're trying to just tip a shape like this you can have any depth you want so you just kind of keep cranking it down and passing it through until it's the step depth that you want um I'm sure if you can see how the metal sort of slips itself further and further down anyway this is my test panel um for this piece here I want to talk about just for a second why I'm choosing to do this and one way that you could attack this problem I'm just going to go a little wider view here is that um you could cut right on this Edge and cut on the other side of this bead and put a strip in there now the problem with that is that now you have two welds that are side by side creating a lot of heat it's very hard to control Distortion of that so we're not going to do that instead I want to move the weld in here um in a little bit lesser important area it's not outer body metal there's a lot of spot welds in here and on the other side it's actually looking a little rough so now that we're deciding to go in here as our weld line we might as well smooth the whole thing out that's kind of what I'm thinking because the other side doesn't look as good as this one so I'm going to end up putting the well great next to this bead by a little bit and that's where we'll shape it when you're welding things together especially with Mig I mean for well for Mig mostly it's nice to be close to beads or breaks because that is a Little Bit Stronger of an area so this is our fence depth here and I've got it just a little bit quarter inch shy away from there and uh and it once that bead is taken care of this is going to sit nice and flat in there so I'm going to replace that whole Edge some of our rust and pitting is kind of made this Edge a little Wonky where I put this patch in it's a little bit different down here this is going to make the whole thing consistent so I'm going to actually put a piece in that goes right from the top all the way to the bottom deletes this whole bead and then I'll probably just bring it out like that to delete the hole as close to this broken Edge as possible when we're welding the stronger it will be and the less Distortion will be able to happen when it's right next to a break like this that's something that you um you got to think about to your advantage right take what you can get so it'll be stronger if the weld is closer to here that means that this flange we don't want it to be too too wide so we'll probably hang you know a quarter inch away from the edge of the speed and then just have a little piece of it that goes and fills that hole but yeah that's what I'm going to do I'm going to run the two pieces through now the real ones you know how this was just a tester so I've got a couple of pieces right here I'm gonna run those through on the fence and that'll be our left side and our right side [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] ER [Music] [Music] I left a little tab here to fill this towel light hole right now this is dead straight so I'm gonna have to put some curve into it not only this way but this way and I think that this is a shallow enough curve that we can just sort of manipulate it and press on it but this curve here that is doing that I'm gonna have to use the shrinker stretcher so rather than stretching this flange to get this curve I think I'm going to choose to stretch or sorry not stretch but shrink this flange the reason I'm thinking about that is because I would rather have my marks from shrinking here rather than here that's just uh my thought process what I'm going to do is um I'm really happy with the step actually this this edge here is so much nicer than this Edge it's gonna look really good so I'm going to start to just shrink this flange so that we can get the curve in here and then just manipulate it to fit as good as I can on both sides [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] so I got this piece cut in here um I wanted to talk a little bit about how to mark that out and cut that out this way I used a Sharpie line all the way around I tried to position this so that it was directly on top of the metal you kind of have to think about when you're butt welding something and lining up a patch when you overlap the piece is it sitting one way or another like is that line actually going to be true so when I line up my piece I'll show you on this side I want to make sure that it is right on top of the metal like even if I have to pull it to the side a little bit so that when the metal drops straight in then this body line lines up right that's how I want to mark it so with MIG welding the rule of thumb is that I always want the patch to be in there as tight as possible and as consistently as possible but um you know with MIG welding it doesn't matter quite as much like you can have a little bit of a gap here and there and it's going to fill easily but like I said consistency is key this method is not quite as accurate as the scribing method but I still use it a lot because it's really easy and and it is accurate enough so I try and keep my zip cut blade right on the edge of the Sharpie line so I'm leaving the Sharpie line on there I find it really easy to see when the edge of your blade is on the edge of a Sharpie line so that's what that method is just super easy to do and you don't have to you know put dye all over it and wash the dye off and stuff like that so anyway I also want to say if the time lapse makes it look super easy to make this piece it is a little bit tricky and a little bit frustrating and it did take me a little while to make that to be the exact curve because you've got two ways it's curving it's not only curving this way but it's also curving inward as well as it has a subtle twist to it the cowl is not perfectly at the same angle here as it is here it's changing so um that's finicky so don't think that I just whipped that out in like two minutes I'm going to go ahead and cut out the other side then I will cut out the hood and we'll scribe the hoods and uh and dye the hood to put the tig welded patch in [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] come on [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] all right so I'm going to go over a couple of the tools I'm going to use to uh TIG weld this little piece in so I like to have my two inch angle die grinder here just in case I need to grind down a little bit of weld and Hammer it so that I can adjust the panel as I'm tacking it if you've ever tacked in a piece and it's tightened up on you where you run attack and then you tack it again and then now right in front of your next pack it's misaligned because it's pulled itself together I like to um to adjust that with hammer and a dolly so I've got a hammer and a dolly here as well and my two inch angle die grinder in case you know anything happens it needs to be ground off and typically when I'm welding something in with a TIG welder I like to Fusion tack it first I like to hold it in you know as close as I can and where I know the metal is touching each other I'll give it a little Fusion tack that'll hold it in place and then from there I've got to make sure that the metal is lined up you know each place I'm tacking but I don't want to tack kind of all over the place because if save for example attack it right in the corner and then attack it right on the edge but here and here are not perfectly lined up that actually means that there is more material on one piece to the next so it will be more difficult to actually line those up as we're tacking along because they're locked in place by the outside pack so what I'm trying to say is that I want to start tacking somewhere and just keep packing from there and just move right along I don't want to jump all over that's kind of the way I like to do it with TIG welding because if it does tighten up on you then you can just hit it with the hammer with a dolly on the back side and it'll spread it back out again and the reason it's doing that of course is because it's shrinking from the heat of attack as we're welding things are shrinking um and that's just the nature of it so that's also why people Hammer their welds afterwards that's Hammer welding right we're going to weld this all the way up and the reason why I like to have access to the back side if I'm using a TIG welder is because then I can use a dolly on the back side and I can Hammer directly on the weld after I'm finished welding to bring the shape back out that's also why we would like to be extremely consistent with our fit is so that our heat is very consistent as we weld it and then as we Hammer when we're done the weld our hammering can be quite consistent we're not going to have to chase low spots or high spots it's it's all going to be relatively the same amount of hammering all the way along consistency is key that's what like with TIG welding consistency is key my machine is set up at I believe 55 amps and I've got 040 TIG welding wire here um before I bought this I used to just use my mig wire I just run out a little bit of 035 out of my big Mig and uh and just straighten it out and that's what I would use this filler typically you're not adding filler like dab dab dab dab dab dab the whole way along because you don't need to you're only adding as much filler as you need so when I'm welding this I'm going to be welding and if I see the puddle drop a little bit then I'll add a little bit of filler I'm not trying to create a crowd bead all the way along you're just trying to fuse the two metals together without giving it too much extra material and that's also because the more material you put into it the more heat has to go into it to melt that material into it so if we can be you know Fusion most of the way but adding a few dabs here and there to the puddle that's ideal oh and I'm using a 1 16 tungsten sometimes I just run my fingernail across to make sure that they're lined up perfectly here's my tight spot right there I'm gonna give that a dab nice small little Fusion tack there and it barely heats up the metal at all like I can just touch it right away you'll see him I I don't really advocate for for not um wearing gloves but I really need to feel my FIT UPS so uh I don't wear gloves if you watched the last video on uh making this piece and we're trying to fit it to the bead this is exactly why it's because I knew I was going to TIG weld it all in and I just I just want it to be as tight as possible with the least amount of messing around so I'm really happy with how the lines came out here so we've got a little bit of high and low great in this spot I can feel We're not gonna be able to get that out just by manipulating it with our hands so I think this I can just hammer and Dolly just a tiny bit there it's it's really nothing the next spot that's touching perfect is just the top of that bead s so I can feel this is just a little bit just a little low it'd be nice to get that corner up so I've got my hammer and Dolly back there I think we got it [Music] beautiful beautiful this is good rate till here so through attack there see this is very tight now since I you know a couple attacks it's been tightening up a little bit so right now I can't move this up and down because this is high and this is low so I'm going to hit this tack right here with the hammer and the dolly you want to be right on the dolly so that you're stretching that tack there we go doesn't take much so now we're good right till there foreign oh no we're still okay it's okay I probably have to hit this one now a little bit sucked in yep perfect so next spot right here I'm holding the TIG torch there for the Post Flow gas it's helping cool it down so that this is staying nice and nice and cool I've got I think three and a half seconds on the post flow you could probably go a little bit more even Okay so this kind of Dives in a little bit so I'm just going to Dolly that up foreign foreign them up you know once there's attack here it became easier to hit that with it not springing back now these are lined up nice all right this is nice at the bottom here as well foreign but slightly gapped apart see the difference while you might not be able to see but when metal is super tight together you can fuse tack them and they will bridge over but if you have a bit of a gap they don't want to Fusion attack so that's part of the reason why we want as tight of a fit up as possible all right now with TIG welding especially I want to have tax every half inch or so um and the reason being is because when I TIG weld I will TIG weld the whole thing in one go I will not jump around I will just do the whole thing in one go and that is also because I want to have a consistent amount of heat in it I want our consistent fit and a consistent amount of heat and a consistent amount of hammering and it should be back to normal so um what I'll do now is I'll just tack every half an inch or so I'm going to put gloves on now because I don't need to feel anything foreign okay so I didn't actually use any filler other than just that bottom one um now that they're tacked every half an inch we can go ahead and weld it basically what I'm looking for is just that I can weld from one way like one end to another as smooth as possible so if it means that I need to have a rest for my hand or if it means that I have to move the piece around to be comfortable so that I can make that you know steadily in one full go that's what I like to do so I'm just gonna get comfortable and then we're going to weld that actually before we go ahead and weld it this is the time where you want to check um to see if anything has moved so right now we could go and uh and if any of these attacks were proud like I had to add some like just this bottom one um we could take that down with a two inch angle die grinder and then we can just lightly tap along the seam to make sure that the two pieces of metal are matched perfectly when we weld it this is all you know kind of important um at this stage because once it's welded it's going to be harder to get back and you'll you'll risk stretching it out if uh if it's not lined up very well also since this bead isn't perfectly perfectly aligned um I can I can hit that with a t Dolly right now and uh get it a little bit better so I've just got this cheap tea dolly just stick it in there and see if we can get this lined up really nice beautiful away we go we're gonna weld that up now I'm actually going to give myself a little bit more juice real thumb for TIG welding for me is approximately one amp for thousandths of an inch somebody told me that and I feel like it's a pretty good starting point if you're doing a 1 8 material you might want 120 thous you're doing 16 gauge you might want 65 amps that sort of thing so I'm gonna see if I can rest here yeah that should feel pretty good just prop the hood up with a paper towel roll so I'm just gonna go from one end to the other and only add filler if I see that it needs it I'm only adding a dab every three quarters of an inch or so just pushing the puddle along right when you get to the end of something right at the end of the weld it does get all of a sudden much hotter so I always stop a little bit short or or throttle down a little bit you got really good penetration on that the whole whole thing now I'm going to go ahead and go down oh I guess you guys didn't even see that oops so adding in a little bit of filler at the Top Cut one dab in the bead two dabs in the bead again filler every three quarters of an inch or so moving along steady right to the end I'm throttling down and that's it okay we did pretty good it's definitely sunken in a little bit right here um so it's got a bit of a kind of a v happening right in there that's because of the shrink it's really not that bad here but what we're gonna do weld the other side of course and then we'll knock the any of the excess Material off here with some 80 grit and then we'll go ahead and Hammer this [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] angle bag grinder [Music] [Music] not really trying to touch the base material at all I'm just trying to knock the tips off just so there's no you know extra material that gets smashed into the metal creating too much stretch [Music] just cleaned up the back side a little bit it really wasn't anything there so right now because this is the kind of inward I'm going to hit it from the back side out against a flat Dolly this is going to help stretch it out so it'll be a lot easier if I flip this over okay so I'm just butting the edge of this up to this line here [Music] it's because it's veed in the head like the center of the weld is what's proud so we're just trying to hit it flat and stretch the weld out a little bit looking good so now I'm going to use the tea Dolly on the back side of the bead that was a little bit warped as well [Music] might flip this over foreign foreign [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] all right I flipped it over again just to get a little bit of this out this is a low spot coming in now that we've flipped it over this is a high spot and I've got my flat side of a dolly here and a little bit higher crown of a hammer to make sure that I'm hitting in the right spot and what I'm trying to do is just pop this out a little bit so I'm going to put my dolly Edge right on the other outside edge we're going to hit this out foreign having a higher crowned Hammer is going to help stretch it as well [Music] yeah it's already looking really good [Music] okay just flipped it back over feels really good we've got a little bit of material that we can grind off now that it's proud a little bit instead of sunken in so I'm just going to ground the rest of the weld now that it's nice and flat I think it'll go right down to the base [Music] [Music] foreign here's a little tip with the discs I always buy three inch discs and I cut them down to the two inch size and uh I'll leave a little bit extra so you can keep cutting them down because I only ever really wear the edge you know the center never wears as fast as the edge so it's blown at a fresh Edge to cut this body line here [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] now that it's been cut off with the 80 grit roll lock I just go to 80 grit on the d8 [Music] and if I really want to get fancy little little Scotch break thank you we could go further you could pick and file and and make that absolutely metal finished but uh I'm gonna stop right there I think it looks awesome [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] that is what we are left with I'm pretty happy with it I did gouge a little bit in there see a little cut but it is looking flat it is looking straight and super stoked so the difference is we're gonna go over that now that we're gonna get into the MIG welding side here but Keynotes on TIG welding tight fit up you want to work from one side to the next when you're tacking you want your tacks to be every half inch or so apart you want to full weld it be as consistent as possible my settings on the welder were about 65 amps Full Throttle when I went for it you might want to lower that if you're not going to go as fast only add as much filler as you need that's the other beauty of it is that you know we barely had to grind it and it is a nice full penetration weld so TIG welding is the closest thing to gas welding which was kind of you know the best stuff they did back in the day so TIG welding is nice when you can take well the reason why we are MIG welding this and we certainly could TIG weld it I actually could get a spoon back here and probably Hammer some stuff out if I needed to but mainly I'm just trying to show you the differences so in here it would be very very difficult to get in behind there to do any grinding or anything that we would need to do so that we could start hammering so we are going to control the Distortion as best we can and one of the first ways we did that was by making our patch in a certain way that's why I built the flange onto here and we're putting the weld in the trough just so that the two cut lines are not super close together this gives us a nice New Edge as well our flange here is going to be nice and strong because it's near this broken Edge so those are the first few things that we're going to do to make sure that we don't warp the crap out of this um and much the same as TIG welding we are going to start tacking from one end to the next in this case I'll probably start tacking up top here and and watching this Edge for Gap and consistency you know this is backed a little bit by another piece of sheet metal so this is not quite as important so I'll be focusing on fitting this Edge perfectly for a nice Weld and uh and I'm sure this Edge will be equally as nice but um this side is more important to me so anyway we're going to start attacking from one end to the next similar to TIG welding it's the exact same really but I want to make sure that we're not putting too much heat in here one way you can do that is by setting your welder up to be as hot as possible so that your tack is as short as possible I know that doesn't make sense but I will crank my welder all the way up and I usually use about 70 like 7 out of 10 on the wire speed and and Full Throttle if you have a fourth position at welder like mine is just a memco 130. so the beautiful thing like I said about tacking hot is that you can just tack super fast and there's no time for the heat from your attack to soak in you don't have to burn as much material because it's going to burn hotter quicker faster deeper so um yeah we're gonna start tacking this piece in now and get her welded up [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] all right so we got both sides put in just tacked tacked every inch inch a bit concentrating on this side this is the side that means the most to me because it's body outer metal you know this um I mean they both ended up with very tight gaps but this is what you know I'm focusing on and just like TIG welding as we tack it is pulling it in so um when I'm doing a place where I can't get to the back side to smash attack to um kind of widen it out especially if it's this strip what I was doing is I was fighting it a little bit as I was attacking it I would line it up while I'm fighting it a bit and and then when you tack it you can actually feel it you know try to shrink but but you're fighting it so it won't shrink right and that way I didn't have to stretch any of the attacks back out and we were able to get a really nice tight Gap the whole way so um yeah I mean much the same as TIG welding how to install these you're just working from one end to the other trying to keep these two planes as flat as possible that's kind of the main objective we're gonna try and keep this cool as we're tacking it now so we're going to do very hot quick tacks to start welding this up but we're going to sort of hop around a little bit somewhat methodically I like to stack attack stack attack stack attack and cool in between each tack that way the metal stays cool to the touch and you're not adding heat and building heat and uh and causing more warpage than there needs to be so that's kind of my trick as far as welding with Mig on sheet metal is that I want to tack it hot and quick and fast and then cool it right away and that way it's uh it's a good tack it's solid it goes deep but it gets cooled right away so you're not adding too much heat into it and you're controlling the Distortion really well so we're gonna you know this is what takes a long time so we're going to be tack tack tack tack tack tack tack going all the way around and you'll see when we're done once we're finished grinding how little Distortion there really is when you use that technique [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] we did pretty good got everything welded up so like I said stack attack technique we're just stacking tacks one on top of each other until we've stitched it all the way down we didn't get any oil canning kept it cool you know a split second after you've got your tack done you just come in with the air cool it off keeps the heat but you can see the heat lines are very narrow you know they're not that fat I did Stitch a little bit here just because it's a nice flat spot what I'm going to do to grind this stuff is you I use 80 grit on a roll lock and I've got multiple Rolex this one is a really tiny one I've ground down just to fit in here so the sweet thing about these uh these roll locks these cubatron ones is that I just buy three inch ones I'll cut them down I'll use them on a two inch and then those ones you can even cut them down and use them on a one inch because you never end up wearing the middle so um anyway that's what I do for that so I'll go 80 grit on the angle die grinder we'll clean as much of this off as possible I just want to note that if you're grinding this down and you hit one side before the other side don't just keep grinding like you know if it's extremely close then sure but the idea is to stop when you hit the base material because you don't want to grind any further than you can you couldn't paint or Bondo over that anyway so if you see the one edge of the weld on one side and it's smooth on the other side that's just what it is that's okay that's that's really not not that big of a deal so don't it's way better to leave it than to grind too far and make your metal weak so um yeah that's it I'm going to 80 grit it and then as always I'll probably use the da with the 80 grit palm sander afterwards and uh and that's it you know there's there's going to be a little bit of a low in here I can feel like but it's barely anything that's better than having a high spot so because this weld did shrink you know there's a tiny bit of a low but it's it's almost nothing I'm going to show you guys with a ruler afterwards that there is a tiny low and that's okay [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] all right so there it is the finished body line goes right into the cowl it is looking good we filled this in this little spot our bead is gone here we've got uh you know MIG welding on the cowl and those spots where I couldn't have access to in the back side works great control your heat control your Distortion be consistent same thing up here with TIG welding but just a little bit different process I do love TIG welding anytime where I can get to the back side because I can make sure that everything's nice and smooth afterwards all in all that's it I mean really happy with the progress on this car stoked that we've got a hood on it now it actually looks like something and uh let me know what you think let me know what you think of that bead let me know what you think about the techniques if you got anything to add like I say this is just the way I do it this is not the way that you know it's it's not set in stone that you have to do it the way I do it but those are the reasons why I choose TIG or why I choose Mig depending on what I'm using I'm not just one or the other I just kind of kind of do whatever feels right whatever works the best for me at the time yeah there it is there it is I know the video is another really long one so thanks for sticking with me I know some guys like the uh the lawn content some people don't I feel like it just gives you the full scope if you want to click through a little bit go for it but for the people that enjoy the longer content with all the details that's what we're here to do so thanks a lot for watching make it custom everybody I'm Carl Fisher and I really appreciate you guys comments the love the likes the shares it's been overwhelmingly positive and uh and we really appreciate all the feedback that we get whether it's good or bad because at the end of the day this is all the help you guys this is this channel is for you guys and uh in turn by you guys watching it so it keeps us alive if you're looking for another way to help support the channel you can take a look at memberships what that means is that you get a little badge by your name when you're commenting I get to be able to search that badge I search the badge to make sure that those guys are getting their comments answered right away but for the 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Channel: Make It Kustom

Views: 756,342

Keywords: Mig welding, tig welding, how to weld, welding sheet metal, how to tig weld, how to mig weld, welding techniques, welding tips, welding how to, fabrication, fabrication techniques, fabrication tips and tricks, metal fabrication, sheet metal fabrication, custom fabrication, metal fab shop, model a roadster, bead rolled, bead roller, bead rolling, roadster hood

Id: 9XwMkR6Q9Rs

Length: 72min 8sec (4328 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 23 2022