This seems sharp

foreign slings nylon and we're gonna do it on hangers we're gonna do it on round stock like a climbing ring or a carabiner we're also going to test girth hitch Master points John godino from Alpine Savvy from Instagram and Alpine savvy.com one of the most popular things I see on your page is people talking about girth hitches what is the number one concern that people seem to have when you bring up girth hitching this to a hanger or girth hitch Master points or anything seems to be that it dangerously weakens the material to some catastrophic potential level and what do you think I think generally it doesn't because we're starting out with something that's really really strong in the first place but let's hit it and see what happens and see if our assumptions are correct I'm trying to read all the future comments before I see them good luck with that one let's start by putting these slings directly on a hanger I'd like to just point out your Dynamic sling you're all worried about a girth hitched on there like that look what it does to the hanger foreign [Music] [Music] that's too low to be good [Music] see that one has a tiny bit of damage there and it was creased obviously I just wonder how much dressing or undressing it or an inadvertent twist in here and this one you can see is obviously really messed up in a few different places look at how it's damaged before like yeah comparable to that one yeah and then some of the other ones are more just pop where it just fell in one spot yes but the numbers are very consistent on the dynamic certainly yeah and it is pretty consistent on the nylon too if you erase nylon and Demon said which one was nylon and dyneema I would have guessed a hundred percent the higher number was that was nylons next John well we're gonna check out girth hitch with the dynamic sling on a rounded surface here not this Carabiner is totally round bar stock not I-beam style which might offer a little more friction then radius is less sharp this in theory should give us more strength foreign [Music] you know get a little deformed there like inside the looks really damaged right here though yeah certainly where it broke [Music] over 20. [Music] [Music] yeah 19.39 [Music] or that's exactly what we got before it looks like such a clean failure and then the other ones can be shredded all the way down there it's so interesting this isn't just simulating girth hitching on a carabiner but also like on a Repel ring or anything that isn't a sharp Bend radius and it's interesting that the nylon and the dyneema both did well but the nylon did better this time than the dyneema yeah yeah it's that's you wouldn't have assumed it but that's how it works I guess but yeah the round stock on that carabiners very similar to that fix ring yeah in those 25kn fix rings that you get so safe enough for some applications oh this goopy stuff yeah that wasn't on there before melted nylon on it's yellow oh wow it's like melted deformed plastic feels like a plastic shopping bag it's like paper thin you see that you can see through it yeah the Nyx girth hitch is girth hitching it twists another sling let's see how those do [Music] yeah it does feel like it's let's see so see at the very tips of those dyneema fibers a little melted blub looking things yeah so we're getting pretty rope nerdy here so our next girth hitch test has isolated our flaw here we're going to find out if this is worse than this for the sling [Music] the new one broke shut the front door who would have thought of that this is where it rolled yeah this is the original bad spot I was trying to isolate so that means the rolling started about right in here this was 2.76 kilo newtons to get that to roll which was very low right that's why the girth hitch Master point is is often a concern um and this is super nice all the way until it's not even so all that and you still the new sling is the one that's still blew up and at a relatively similar number to our last growth hitch Slinger sling 11s wow that is surprising holy cow [Music] no way yes how's that possible this bends up and this bends down they look the same yeah they look like they're equally bendy this is bending up this is bending down it's totally symmetrical let me show you guys how to do this what do you guys think this strand isn't back which is the preferred way this is introducing all the bins into this one in zero bins in the other one even though it's pinching it's not bending [Music] our hypothesis is wrong it broke it finally broke this one at 11 at the same number we've been getting wow but this one somehow survived I am shocked that didn't break substantially lower that way [Music] that was six more dead Isaacs I got much damage this one got that's cut through and this is tubular right so you can see the the Gap in there and this one's a clean cut right oh microscope oh there you go yeah it doesn't have the the burnt bubble on the end Rob noticed a tiny there's one part this section that's a little to toasted but it's not it's just feeling with your fingers you can feel this yeah it feels melted like burnt crispy plastic okay so this is different right the girth hitch is still intact I use the word Loosely look how it's damaged but this where it was cut fifty percent through because this is getting stronger results this isn't able to compete with that so this is the girth etched sling that broke and I can't get the girth hitch out so we're going to just try to use this and growth hitch a new sling to see if that breaks [Music] so where did I pull right here see that melted spot feel that oh yeah it's all deformed crispy yeah you can you can see it in the camera that it's melted and that's what this was on and this is I actually girth hitched this to that so this had all the bends in it but feel how crispy that is oh yeah it's like all the way down through the fibers this has a higher melting point but it's easier to get more heat out of nylon because it has more of the friction whereas the dyneema is so slippery it's hard to get to that melting point yeah generally good practice to connect your slings with the carabiner to keep things at full strength but if you ever need to girth hitching together to set up your quickie top rope it seems like it's going to be fine we're through our anchor points here which would of course be carabiners in real life so you don't even open up the carabiner nope and you can do this with the gate locked if you wanted to and you this is like a poor man's ringing plate at this point if it's an HMS Carabiner you can clip yourself the person a bunch of stuff in here foreign you shouldn't ever do that it's dangerous hold on what'd we get yeah you guys are right 32 NFL football players because one kilonewton is the average weight of an NFL player how many NFL players are on a team uh there's 11 and when 11 plays 11 offense versus defense that's 22 football players in the field 22 kilonewtons is about the equivalent to what all this stuff's rated at so if you can imagine this sling holding up 22 football players all strung together that's pretty ridiculously strong what kind of safety ratio would you want because you don't want a 9 9.1 kilonewton anchor if nines are worse right you want some sort of a safety ratio I don't think there's a standard one for recreational climbing but I think most people would probably be happy climbing on something that it's least twice as strong as what you're ever going to put on the anchor I think if you're getting 20 to 25 gallon Newtons at an acre super strong enough for any normal climbing situation even for fall Factor twos which you're introducing an entirely different risk besides your master Point breaking at that point so as long as we're getting the 20 range super good enough which means this is super good enough the question is is it redundant if one side gets cut even though that's also kind of a niche problem to be having because that means you have rocks hitting you so we're gonna do this one more time but we're going to add this sliding X Factor that young Camu brought up in one of his videos where it might mitigate the risk of it being more redundant and whether or not that is um I believe it helps a situation that never happens but that is something we're going to test where you have one of these strands going through this other strand and you already have so much going on here I don't know if that's going to affect the strength but we will find out [Music] broke in the girth hitch and it broke super good enough you can see that that edge was torn in the process so now we're going to test nylon and see how fat this is you might think that it's better to add to this end but you don't want the force on the gate side of a carabiner you want it in line with the spine and this is super good enough as long as it's not interfering with that and this is where you would want something fat so you can keep the force right down here [Music] oh it's redundant that's cool 13.48 to break that part John you're in charge of untying that what I do is this Dunham oh my God I don't think that's gonna do it [Music] that was really consistent oh like way way more than this what's funny is the only forces that I would be like oh that's too low is the nylon girth itch directly to the hanger but everything else we tested over the top good enough for anchor building for sure I don't know if we were breaking gear fear or not but you can get that shirt at how not to swag.com is that slick or what oh god slick is dyneema something I probably should have brought up the beginning was these are uh Black Diamond nylon 18 millimeter wide slings and Cipher 8.0 millimeter Dynamic slings and they're all brand new so everything was apples for apples throughout this test this is kind of an expensive test so thank you to those who donate he is one of them save you guys in trouble the girls hitch Master point isn't redundant that's right isn't that very very very tiny chance of your sling being loaded at six or seven kilonewtons and it being magically cut at the same time then it's not redundant the rest of the time good to go if you're risking falling on a factor two but who's falling on a factor two you should have a Jesus draw at the first bolt so they're not falling directly on that Master point but if we're like true true redundancy is super important for whatever weird situation you're in or you have risk of rockfall then you can build your anchor differently you can also build this with two slings if you started with just it somehow accidentally got cut without being loaded what does it slip at yeah that's been uh tested by Derek debrun okay in Utah if it's loose and sloppy and it gets cut then it can start to slide Derek's basic premise was tug on it a couple times yeah you should and that's all you need to do yeah so if you don't think a slow pull test is valid for the girth hitch mask what's your point that's scary uh we're gonna drop test it after having magically one side of this anchor magically failed from rockfall that didn't damage me not wearing a helmet this is kind of slipping you can see like definitely does not go up to that bolt up here anymore oh that'd even slow it down [Laughter] 0.18 I mean that's a whipper but what about nylon you ask uh hope it works oh God says gnarly that's holding a lot better 13.12 when I dropped this and forgot to record it three two one 14.04

Channel: HowNOT2

Views: 155,116

Keywords: Highline, highlining, highlines, slackline, slacklining, slacklines, ryan jenks, how not to highline, hownottohighline, highliner, slackliner, tutorial, how to, rope, webbing, rigging, rig, extreme, SlackSnap, break test, bolt buster, boltbuster, break tests, stunts, world record, slo mo, climbing, science, mythbusters, carabiner, daredevil, rope swing, rope jump, big wall, gear, climb, rappel, spacenet, cams, anchors, hownot2, how not to, linescale3, extremegear, caving, canyon, sport climbing, gear testing

Id: JYd14LuitX8

Length: 15min 22sec (922 seconds)

Published: Wed May 10 2023