Thinning Young Vines to Produce Strong Spur Positions

okay I am now at a Aliannah co vine that last year was cut while is green and growing just like the examples we were showing and then the lateral shoots took off in both directions really an ideal scenario so we don't have any pruning wounds really close to the head they pruned it up high to leave a little dieback space so we wouldn't get an infection in the trunk we left some room at the ends when we pruned it and there's no problem with leaving that that's just gonna die back and we're fine so remember the the first thing we do when we come up to vine like this is we pay attention to the extension I will tell you if you did absolutely nothing to this vine and just grew it this year you'd be okay but the problem is we chance over cropping this young vine by leaving everything on it that's the number one problem or concern the number two concern is if I leave it all and I have to go in and thin it out in the winter the cuts that I make in the winter are gonna be on hard dormant wood and what kind of wounds are most likely to get infected by fungal diseases such as Batra spheria you type uh from OPS's the hardwood cuts because they take longer to heal they take anywhere from three to four days to heal if I come in here come on in and I break off a shoot like this one right here okay just break that off that pruning wound is gonna heal fast okay can you get around there and see that that is basically a green tissue wound it's merely a flesh wound okay it's not a deep cut it's gonna heal within a few hours okay so ideally you wouldn't do this while it's raining just to be safe but there's actually no evidence that I'm aware of that rain can cause disease entry into green tissue wounds okay so mostly just this pruning winds so the idea here is I pay attention to the extension I have two good options that could lay down in case one breaks I put my hand down and then I've got my other shoe and this one here I can completely remove okay so now I'm starting to get my Spurs and what I try to do is if I if I can do it I favor putting them all on the same side of the king okay because you'll have your SAP flow coming up it'll hit the spur it'll hit this spur instead of alternating sides you can't always get them all on the same side so you try to when you can same thing here I'm getting my cane coming up here I've my next position nice fruitful shoot I'll put a hand down that means I can remove that one I've got two coming out of here so it's a secondary shoot I don't need that I only need one shoot that I can cut back later and create a two-bed spur from then I'll have my hand width then I'll have another two bud spurred trust me that's gonna get big that'll be up to three eighths of an inch by the end of the season and then we've got one right here which I could use for my extension or one right here that I can use for my extension so these are gonna be the two options for my extensions now I always get the question can you keep the fruit on a shoot that you're using for training an arm or an extension and the answer is yes there's there's no reason why you can't this vine is old enough it's strong enough and you can crop the the shoots that are being used as your extension no problem so again extensions are good I've got every hand with a shoot and it's spaced perfectly for my cord ons and I've got them preferably coming from the same side of that cord on this shoots so that can get good flow of nutrients and water that is an ideal scenario on an ideally trained vine

Channel: Westover Vineyard Advising

Views: 150,351

Keywords: vines, vine, vineyard, thinning, shoot thinning, grapes, young vines, wine

Id: UAWU3FHHBvI

Length: 3min 21sec (201 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 13 2020