The Ultimate Engine Wiring Starter Guide.

if you're anything like me you're wondering can i get my car wired for cheap or if you are me you wonder well there's no wiring harness that is possible for what i have can i just make it myself and you can also be like me and start with something that was absolutely horrifying and make it a little less horrifying i want to take you guys on a little journey of wiring now this is supposed to be a boring subject but i am going to condense several hours and by several i probably mean 100 hours of thought process experience and all that into a very short video relatively speaking if you want way more content on that actually i would recommend hp academy those guys have a wonderful program it's expensive but it is worth it for building harnesses at this level what we are doing right now is building something i have never built before and let me show you what i would say is the three major levels to wiring harnesses and what gets involved at each of those levels this right now will be the top level but let me show you a little bit of my history first the very bottom level of wiring i think is modifying an existing car's wiring and that is behind this right here so as you see on the rotary corvette there are a lot of the existing old wires used to kind of fake the car running fine that's level one you splice into it use duct tape you crimp them together maybe even some solder that works to be honest it actually does work but then level two is right here you start getting excited that you could possibly make your own harness and you do some cool things you make a lot of mistakes but they work fairly well that is what this car has been for the longest time this harness right here is that level two it was all made by me custom as you can tell i'm not trying to impress you with the harness but i do want to point out that this car made 950 horsepower with this piece of crap right here so don't let the looks fool you the problem with this harness was that i didn't shield it i didn't protect it inside of heat shrink that's the only thing that was really wrong with it and of course i used wires basically from lowe's o'reilly's autozone and there is duct tape and weird stuff and some soldering all mixed in there and including things like this crimps that just don't do much so that's like the bottom of the barrel level two the top of the barrel at level two is what's in this car right now i built a harness for the fuel tank and i did in fact use a lot of basically 3m heat shrink to protect things that you just wouldn't otherwise notice as needing to be protected something where i messed up is like right there i forgot to put something on that little crotch and you can see that the wires are exposed honestly at the end of the day having heat shrink on this harness is a fake job i will tell you that as in it doesn't change the performance of the harness so your harness could in theory look like this underneath it won't but it could and yet still make tons of power and be reliable fact of the matter is when you're doing harnesses for cars like this or cars like this especially rotaries you have oils you have fuels you have coolant all leaking on there and your goal is to protect the wires from that on top of that another thing you're trying to protect the wires from is pulling they call it strain in the industry but pulling on the wires straight forward is one of the worst things that you can have happen right here this is a ground if i was to pull on this really hard at what point does it break and that's something that you take into account when making a level two harness a level three harness well that's what we're about to go on a journey for right now level three in my opinion these aren't official levels by the way the highest level is very expensive it is what you would see in an indy car a professional racing car where there are multiple people working on it they need to trust the harness it's not just you it's a whole team and they need connections in and out that are easily replaced so that type of harness requires even better protection this stuff right here is kind of an industry standard now i would say it is still heat shrink but it's meant more for harness making it's much thicker and it's called dr25 that's the number and letter right there dr25 dr25 is basic heat shrink i still use on all the other things that are much cheaper 3m it looks like the type of level of protection that you're going to get but that's not where you get the benefit of your heat shrink the benefit of your heat shrink actually comes at the connections where you use adhesives and things like that to actually waterproof or oil proof the harness of course it's going to be all along this way nice and safe but then what happens when these wires meet other wires this is not sponsored by race spec i paid full price and it allows me to speak freely about this this stuff is almost the same as the other type of heat shrink except for one in very very very important detail it's sticky and it has an adhesive that melts and sticks the things together now you don't want this sticking to your wires you want it actually sticking the pieces of heat shrink to each other so you create this kind of chain of a sheath almost like a snake skin all the way around all of your wires what about the wires themselves this is where the expense really really gets crazy this is special wiring and it's mostly because of the coding on the outside if you guys didn't remember like dupont and nylon anything like that teflon this is going to be in that realm because it is called teflozole it is a special type of coating that goes on the outside of the wire at the end of the day the wire itself is still basic it's still just copper or aluminum or aluminum coated with copper it all is just wire so that was really deceiving to me as well is that i was expecting these wires to be more special and sometimes they are in this case the number of strands matters because electricity travels on the outside of wire less strands means less efficient but this wire is more so important because of the coating and with that coating you actually get a much smaller wire so look at right here this wire looks very small and you'd think it is but that wire right there because of the coating is mostly made of the wire itself and the equivalent size of that if you were to go to like a hardware store lowe's or even autozone it might be even thicker that is the same wire right here same 16 gauge thickness side by side look at how much of the sheath is reduced this tesla the red one on the right is more efficient capable of handling higher heat capable of handling ethanol alcohol is much stronger this is what i've been using for quite a while because it's relatively inexpensive this you have to really know what you're doing when you go to use it you have to have everything planned out and so that's really one of the big key differences to making a really crazy harness like this if you see this big harness right here this is something called like a flying lead this one came from haltech and as you know i've been using adaptronic which heltech bought out and made amazing amounts of horsepower and just done amazing things on that car there and then of course to be a good tuner going and using fuel tech on the three rotor and having amazing success with that as well i think both companies are wonderful but they both offer this type of flying lead harness and it would basically be like a level 2.5 it's meant to be something that you do yourself use actually pretty quality wire here but it is not tesla wiring to identify that when you go to tesla wiring i mean you're measuring the thickness of the wires and making calculations with that on this harness it's a lot more enjoyable to make to be honest this is a wonderful place to start and i would recommend if you're ever going to build something as insane as a four rotor or even just honestly not just but an indy car harness start making a couple of these flying lead harnesses first because you'll learn so much in each step you just kind of add tricks to your toolbox basically that make you just that much better at doing it on the fuel tech harness that we're about to make we have the connectors we have the pins for that it's the core of the harness we are going to make i'm sure some of you are looking at this beautiful face and wondering rob if you already have a three rod running and a three-rotor harness running why are you making another one well let me show you why specifically this is actually a very important detail and it's something i don't want to patch in later especially with that car being potentially dangerous as it could be i've unboxed the drive by wire pedal as well as the drive by wire throttle of course the throttle kind of makes sense that is directly connected to the wiring harness i don't want to have another baby wiring harness also running in there i don't want to have to get confused if there's issues and i'm like okay is it this harness or that harness it's a powered piece to the car it's not a sensor it's not an injector which i'm sure injectors are roughly around the same ampere juices don't want that to have really small wires i just want to do it right from the beginning all of that needs to work properly 100 time or i'm just adding tons of random crap to the car and gaining no real benefit from feel like it's time for me to improve my skills because the skills that i learned doing that for the first time on this car transfer to the big boy in the back so very important that i do it once before i do it for four rotor and learn the things that even i'm going to learn going to this phase that's something that is going to make this harness slightly larger but because of how small these wires actually are when you use them this harness is probably going to look much smaller than the previous one what's the first step you take when going to make a harness like this well it's a lot of writing if you're unfamiliar with your fuel tech or haltech or any other ecu that you're working on the first thing you do is actually go to their websites they have phenomenal manuals and documents on what's kind of a generic way of wiring their ecu so in the case of fuel tech though i actually kind of have that the top of mind awareness from my previous one just mark down what i wanted this would look like kind of my end result of where i'm going with this we'll start here and then work a little bit backwards this is the lengths of the sections i want to run and kind of how they branch out inside of the engine bay so the ecu's in the dash we got a little bit of a run behind the center console and then it goes off to other things whether it's going to be sensors for like the clutch pedal or whatnot and then this section goes through the firewall and then into the engine bay right at the back of the motor right here and then it separates off into very important sections and all of that i just simply took a wire and ran them from the back of the motor to the coolant temp sensor well that's x number of inches let me give another 10 20 and that's how i went and measured all of these you can see i certainly want to replace some of the crap that i've moved out of the general place over here here is the ft 550 for example and even that i want to improve even more it runs about a foot here splits off into here to other harnesses and then runs you know the 20 inches or so to the back of the motor all these things are there why do i even need them and that's backing up the step here you realize i have to figure out what i want on my car to begin with and these are all the things that i wanted and i kind of organized them in a very particular way in this i think it's more of an industry standard these are all sensors and they're all like acronyms for sensors so you're reading things from the engine you're trying to read in this case where the engine is in its rotation temperatures pressures temperatures pressures to you start seeing a theme here the turbo speed speeds and then we start getting into more advanced things down here but really it's a lot of core parts are just the temperature and pressure coolant oil fuel and so on on this side these are things that you actually are going to be telling what to do on the car ignition injectors igniters wastegates drive by wiring or pedals you all have control over these things on this side and the reason you separate it that way is these are very sensitive they're sensors and they're very low low low voltage these are things that are driven sometimes they call them actuators and those require voltage require amperage and as a result can actually cause interference with these so these are really soft and gentle ones these are the ones that can be more harsh and you want to keep them separate as much as possible at least mentally that's what i want to do i personally feel that an engine that you have tons of sensors on that are useful can tell you very critical data and prevent damage all these things are maxing out the fuel tech 600 with every single sensor it has they have an expansion spot i think the haltech has way more sensors but trade-offs and we're not comparing these two apples to apples because they aren't even the same type of product this one is actually a dash built in and this thing's got what's called a pdm built into it power distribution module or masterpiece they both have other additional things that do not make them actually very comparable products they serve slightly different uses for example this pedal right here has a sensor and a backup sensor in this when you push it in zero to 100 whereas the throttle itself has two motors you know forward and backwards and it also has sensors to make sure it's in the correct spot those motors are the part that are driven that requires power significant power comparatively to open and close that throttle once you've determined all the things that you need then you start trying to organize them this is all trick and scratch there's tons of different ways to do this and i of course also going to suggest that you have thicker wires for the power thinner wires for the sensors and that helps you figure out the organization of this and here comes down to i want all of my injectors to go off together and then that way you can grab that main stalk and say okay all six injectors for this car grab that main thing and then plug all six in so it helps you make sure that you have everything plugged in as well this is more of a personal preference again i'm going to actually show you what it is to make this main section of the harness and i'll explain the reason why you do it the way you do it almost every single harness starts this way the absolute core of an engine harness starts with the most important question in the entire engine bay as far as i'm concerned where is the engine at and i don't mean the block like i did with where's the four rotor where is it at in terms of its rotation we don't know when to fire the injectors we don't know when to fire the ignition we don't know what our sensors are telling us if we don't know where the engine's at rotation-wise these are all the e-shafts for the four rotors the one thing that plugs directly onto the center of the motor is something like this this is called a trigger wheel this has these little chunks of metal on the outer edges and what those chunks do is when they pass by a magnetic sensor they just get in the way basically caused this magnet to stick so see that like that they don't physically stick but the idea is that when it passes by you sense it you can sense that there is a chunk of metal no chunk of metal a chunk of metal no chunk of metal what that sensor is capable of doing especially with this right here it knows there's the blank space let me say okay there were five pulses i know that i'm this far rotated in the process of spinning the engine it's that simple oh hey there's metal oh there's not oh hey there's metal there's not okay there's an extra space so that must be the beginning or you know the reset more or less and it just goes like that in circles indefinitely as long as your motor can turn over this is the center of that the most important part of your wiring harness is the sensor itself there are a couple different styles but this one right here that is magnetic and you'll find that all different cars have different types of gears like this i just want to point out that that data is very sensitive what if it just simply was a little bit closer well what about all this metal inside the rest of the ring is it reading all that it's just simply reading that little baby chunk of metal the information is very sensitive to the rest of the car doing obnoxious things the very center of your harness is also the very center of your engine and that is something that needs to be protected the most so on this haltech flying lead harness here it actually has this thing and this thing is meant to protect the data inside of this wire it's called a shielded wire and there's actually literally a shield made out of metal that is meant to protect the wires inside of here why do they need to be protected well there's a thing called emf electromagnetic interference or magnetic frequency and simply put if you have this sensor connected to the end of this wire here in a perfect world you won't even need the shield but if you took a magnet on the outside of this you can actually change the data that the ecu sees from this those pulses those little hey tooth tooth tooth don't become so obvious anymore especially if you were to go back and forth in a similar timing and the reason why that matters so much is because everything else is actually firing off at these same frequencies that this is reading you just have a lot of things going on all at the same time and you'll start getting interference interference on this wire right here is the death of the motor you will blow your motor if this signal is interfered with by anything going on outside what's most likely to interfere is actually just straightforward it's your ignition coils your spark plugs those create very high voltages little static sparks and that static spark requires a lot of energy to create and if that energy is anywhere near this wire more importantly the wires inside of it that could really interfere with your data companies like this will produce something that is a wire or two built inside of a shielded wire which is also then built inside of a really nice protective casing that shield means nothing unless it is actually grounded it's important is that you're planning to put this in the very center of your harness but you have to make sure that you plan to do stuff with it we've established that you need this but why does it matter to the harness well generally speaking at least in the things i've learned and seen this is the center of your harness it is a very thick very difficult to flex piece of wire so if it was on the outside of your harness and you went to bend your big harness out here like this you would kink this or break it it's just not worth putting on the outer edge but if it's in the center of your harness and you bend it well that means that the whole harness can bend up to this tight without even thinking about it and of course the harness would be whatever an inch thick this no longer becomes a problem in terms of how much it can bend you're also protecting it deep inside of there which is good i think because i would rather have my oil temperature sensor would get weird if it was to be interfered within this so it's kind of being protected a little bit by the other wires but really it's actually just creating space between this and anything that intends to hurt it that's the center of your harness done right there you want to make it from a to z you want this shield to protect it as far as possible the next concept this is something that i learned amazingly from hpa is the idea of concentric twisting concentric twisting just means really fancy braiding for adults instead of all the barbies i had as a kid but what you're basically doing is just wrapping these wires around concentrically so around a circle around the center and this ends up being the center so it's also really nice to have this beefier piece in the center and all the other wires spiral around it you do enough wires in a spiral to make one layer and then you spiral the next layer which is now even bigger the other way around that and boom that's all there is there you guys are done that's how you build a wiring harness if you don't do that that ends up with something like this what you'll see here this wire right here used to be the sensor for the three rotor and then right next to it is this huge red which is you know generally 12 volts right next to it giving off heavy heavy-duty voltage to supply all the coils with power so that's exactly what you're trying to avoid if you needed them in the same harness at least you would purposely plan to wrap them in ways that keep them away from each other twisting is not necessary but it is very helpful it helps organize it makes it look pretty it helps you keep mentally focused on what is going where i think the most important things about wiring is being able to look at something oh crap there's something wrong with it like visual inspection we're gonna make sure the next level that goes on top of this is the next thickest wires if possible what you're actually doing with the next row of wires that go around this those are all powers and grounds not insane ones i actually don't have the ignition system go through this harness i actually split that off that's something i've seen a lot of other people do and it's worked very well for me it's going to be one central power line for all the sensors sensors don't take much if at any voltage so that little line isn't really going to create interference on here as well as the grounds for the ecu another major topic i want to talk about very quickly is grounding for something as crappy as all of my random harnesses to run and work the first time and never be the problem that's causing problems with the car i use very basic simple and clean methodologies if you're like oh man i want to run a ground to here and then one to the body here and one to here no no no no have all of your grounds that matter to you your emotions have them all go to one central point that's called star pattern it all comes from the center of a star burst that point for me generally speaking is on the back of the engine on the very top back of the engine my battery ground goes there my ecu ground goes there every ground that i can think of goes there because i won't have weird issues i won't have talk back i won't have ground loops i'll just have one center point where i know everything is good and solid coming from there and it's clean it's clean energy it's almost like wind power no it's very clean energy all at one center point in that case the computer that's at the dash of my car is not grounded to the chassis near that it's actually got a ground wire that's going to be in this harness that is also going to the back of the engine block i said i'm going to speed through the next step because obviously it's going to be just a bunch of colored wires going through and being twisted around this it's really pretty maybe we'll make it a little montage but that's really all i'm doing is taking certain wires that i've planned and twisting them around this and it has been a minute since i have used the gopro chest mount but well let's get right to it this will be ultimately a time lapse part but i want to show you a couple things i'll be using a lot of one is these short little zip ties buy a thousand of them this is 100 by a thousand you're going to go through them or you're going to want to go through them because they can just hold things in place and as a result you want things are just dedicated to cutting things really easily these type of style right here perfect for clipping these without you know cutting your wire those are kind of like forming the core of your harness quickly and if you make a mistake or try something else you can just simply cut and put a new one on so what i've done is i've cut this wire and i also have marked on the table you know what four or five feet the table 60 inches wide and i also put six inches and that's for me now that's uh just so if i need half of the foot of something and i try and keep my harnesses simple in terms of lengths that are simple to just make so i don't mess them up but this piece right here needs to be 72 inches so that's 60 plus another foot i added another six or eight inches on the end of it just because it's such the core of the thing i want to have access in case my the way i split it off from there gets weird so i want to have extra on the ends partially to hold it in a vise and that's kind of one of the coolest things you want to do at this point is you'll hold this wire tight and you'll wrap all the other wires around and while you're doing that of course you don't want to then try and reuse the crushed ends right here expect another inch or so on the very end of the core of this just to be trashed we're then going to take a certain length of all of the next row of wires and of course like you see i've got wire strippers we're not really need wire strippers but i am using them for the cutter part um we will be using what's called cap on tape it's like captain captain used in a lot of aerospace stuff it's like 500 degree tape and that's actually the reason why you're using it is that it will not you know melt like electrical tape if any of you ever made the mistake of using electrical tape and harness about two months later you realize why you don't use it this stuff's really good it's very thin but it's also not um like electrical tape or bends really easily so you have to think about how you use this it's very popular in harness building it's very common to use 16 and then 22. what we're going to do is make a variety of these wires a certain length cut them because i need multiples to show you a quick way of wrapping around there but i right now know this core part right about here all these wires are going to get split if it's a ground wire it actually ends up getting split to tons of places if it's a power wire it does the same so i'm expecting these wires only have to go from this section to this section here don't let it fool you this thing has to make it all the way across on my level two i'm gonna have a 12 volt in sensor ground ec ground spare ecu ground red black black red so i need two reds a black all of those they all end up right here on my ecu ground is an extra 12 inches from here so 12 plus 20 is 32 and then it would technically stop right here because they all split i'm actually gonna make them the full length and then cut them there that's 32 44 plus 852 so i'll make all the wires that go from here to here 52 inches but we'll just make them 60 so i don't have to think about this okay when you have these rolls up where i normally have them you can then just take one and go okay that's the same length and make the same length two reds let them go there black two volts in five volts in black pipeline so we'll do the same thing lawyers now it is kind of nice to bend them backwards a little bit so that we get more nice straighter things so these don't just keep kicking up like this because it gets really annoying we'll end up having all of these something like this as the next step implies all you're doing is just simply wrapping these around and that's why i like having these untangled a little bit more because you're wrapping these around like this over and over now what you're going to notice is that the wires are actually going to leave this gap where you'll still see the green thing you don't spin them like this if you spin like this you'll run out of wire length really quick so you do it kind of like this angle here when you do that you'll still see the green area on a professional harness you actually fill that with dummy wires or spares so what we're gonna do is utilize the fact that we need more of these just to have more power or safety inside of the harness so i think i'm gonna do another two or three just in case one of the cool parts about the way you build a professional harness is when it comes to colors you actually don't try to worry about hey this one is my ecu ground this one's this ground you make them all roughly the same lengths and you plan ahead and then you can just grab one red one test each end and say okay now when i'm building the rest of the harness that is my certain wire not work in all cases but it certainly works in most like you can say hey all my sensor boards are white ones so you just run 20 white wires to the whole harness and then at the end of the harness you just go okay which one's the one i'm gonna make into a certain sensor these wires look like they're stiffer because there's a lot more metal inside of there than this coating implies i think i'm gonna do two more reds somewhere this one [Music] there's math and all that to these but this should be way closer to making a full circle you can see right there i need to add probably three more wires i can actually just do i'm going to just do the 20 mil and 20 inch part this part actually sucks because you don't want to use really good wire as a filler i'm sure there's maybe somebody that makes filler wire you're literally just using these wires to throw them away that part hurts but it also makes the harness way better so i guess it doesn't hurt a hundred percent these are quite literally just space holders for the center section of the harness that goes from the inside out of the cars i want this row to be just smooth it really looks bad when you don't add these wires and you put heat shrink on top of it it just has this weird ass spiral obviously possibly a place where you can have things hook up and hurt the harness i don't even want to take a chance with that on this one and of course i'm on video so i have to do it perfect right i'm going to straighten all these wires out a little bit more just so they don't do this especially as you're working down the harness this becomes a source of frustration when i'm normally pulling them off the rows up there i'm actually kind of bending them backwards as they're coming off the roll so it creates a little bit better straightness in the harness so the way i'm doing it now is creating a little bit of lumpiness so now that i have those all straightened out a little bit better hopefully it'll give you a better idea of what it looks like and they're not so chaotic it feels chaotic no lie and you could just kind of trust your process and not be interrupted at all that's why i'm doing this at whatever two in the morning right now because it just is a bad idea to be interrupted in the middle of a weigh-in no matter how much you write it down interruptions suck i'm just gonna show you for the sake of illustration not how i'm actually going to do it i don't want to go pro my chest when i'm doing it i'm going to show you how it kind of looks to do the first part of this harness and i set it up to automatically do it from there you're essentially taking all of these wires kind of like that and then we are going to do this and here's where the zip ties come in and this is also where it's nice to have excess of everything zip ties wire i'm just going to put this around here and then we'll just put on that slight angle and we should see this more or less try to wrap smoothly all the way around here this is simply for illustration this is where you'd want it on the vise but i just wanted to show you that they ultimately end up wrapping all the way around here and the beginning of a beautiful layer of a harness is done i'm gonna go ahead and set this up on the vise and get this section actually made ready see that even doing that as an example already made it just feel that much cleaner at least it looks way less chaotic you can use a crazy vise like this expect the wires to be just trash so i'm purposely doing that so the center wire is all set up right there and then we could much easier wrap these around you can see why i wanted to fix the tangle because it's a lot easier to do this part when this isn't tangling because you're going to get these all spinning around each other so you want them loose we're going to need a lot more zip ties for this step i had to make sure that as soon as we get to the 20 inch mark right here that certain wires are preparing to leave it's not that they end there it's just that they have that connection out there and that will be spliced to the part that then goes to the rest of the harness these are ones that don't stop there so you can see how this becomes very quickly a labor of love especially if you're doing one that you've never touched before okay so i'm organizing them attempting to in a way that makes sense to me their coats don't stick to the under layer which is wonderful but that also poses a problem right now as i'm trying to get them to stick it might actually make more sense to use the tape at this moment just because the little area right underneath that part right there that causes a lot of problems because a wire will just plop into there so that's being a real pain in the ass right at this moment actually these are the short ones almost there not like done but almost there where it's actually starting to behave this is going to take a little bit of work they're still bundling up right there i hope it's close i can always go back and fix that area there we go it's starting to play nice i can feel the wires all start to want to twist instead of fall on top of each other and that's that's where i'm trying to get i could have probably used one more to fill this in but i think once i get the twist going this will clean up even nicer [Music] there's that mark that i set for 20 inches this is basically the run just the dash this is all the other connectors come off of here go out about a foot and this is allowing us to kind of run from there to the ecu this is extra just for wiring this is extra just for actually pinning the wire and then this is the running section of the harness we'll stop at this mark here and that's where a lot of these wires will actually exit or at least get crimped and then run along with this spot again that's the majority of what it takes to make a harness like this to manipulate than generic wires so if you're going to make a harness i wouldn't even waste my time doing these especially since it's not for such extreme applications i would stick with doing this sort of process but with you know cheaper and easier to manipulate wire but there you go and that twist if you're wondering what the twist is for so that way when you bend the wire you're actually not kinking the wire that's on the inside and stretching this one out here every single wire bends and doesn't get kinked so it's absolutely wonderful for harnesses like this that snake through a car i'm going to continue backwards fix the areas as it goes back up to here and then just basically rinse and repeat i'll probably finish this level and i'll bring you guys back in and show you how you go and do the next layer of the harness harness section that is really interesting is actually this part here because this is going to be the part that goes out to the engine block the engine blocks sitting kind of right here on out this two foot section is what goes through the car and that's the part that you want to focus on first because if you start finishing this section it could get too thick and that section definitely get too thick for you to slide your sheath for this section on so you really have to think ahead for that much we'll get to here kind of build the harness from here and then you can go out that way and out that way [Music] we are going to stop at this point right here only because i'm not crimping these wires ahead of time that's the right way to do it i didn't but it gives me a little bit of room to work with there's my mark those actually hit that almost perfectly the one thing that you have to learn over time you can try to remember this ahead of time but it just does not work is just because your mark is right there so for example that is where i want the wires to split they will not split there they're actually going to be sheathed and then they'll split off here so you always have to make your mark about an inch before you plan on splitting off where you have to make sure that you split off an inch before the mark regardless that means that this mark right here that is actually not where i'm going to split off i'm actually going to try making all the crimps and stuff back here so that way they all meet up and then start splitting off at that point that's just one of those things because of the way the heat shrink on the outside work there is the beginning of the core of the harness these wires are going to run all the way and these are all filler wires these medium length ones are going to be split into 10 to 12 splices they go to all the different things at the end of the harness this part's actually really fun i'm going to show you guys through a time lapse what this is like but i've got eight of these i just made the red color mean 12 volts and then i've got 11 of these really fine looking ones these are all sensor grounds and so i've simply crimped them all into place right there and then heat shrunk it so the single wire kind of makes sense to fit with the fat or bulk how do i get to this point well it's obvious i gotta enjoy showing you guys this too though because sometimes you skip steps and it's therapeutic to see i've made this color plan to be my five volts so i can quickly see that this is not 12 volts and i'm simply making it three feet long i've got enough wire for this i'm gonna need seven of these so i'm just sticking it up here and then i've got one so i'm simply measuring them all the exact same length and then cutting small step you kind of assume but it is nice to see sometimes on camera these are all 22 gauge wires i kind of mentioned earlier in the video i was always worried that this isn't enough power or at least it would get too hot problems or resistance and all those sort of things that happen when you have too thin of wire this will be my first time running it this thin normally i'm over compensating i think we'll be pretty safe the idea of the tefl jacket on these is actually meant to retain more heat or prevent more heat or however you want to look at it and so they're actually rated for higher temperatures which is kind of a i would say an asterisk next to that because doesn't mean that they don't get as hot this is five seven grab all of these up all to the same starting point and i'm actually gonna zip tie them all together so that way we don't have moments like this we're gonna pull the wire sheath off a little bit on each of them get them ready to be bundled and then crimp all together so i don't want to be too close now when it came time for the sensor ground i had to make sure it wasn't any of these other grounds i had to make sure it wasn't any other possible wire there are two wires that do run along this cord these two are my ecu ground so it's purposely two wires crimped at both ends those i did not want to confuse with my sensor grounds those are totally different purposes one of these is my five volts one of these is my 12 volts they both split to here and they both go to here so it really doesn't matter until i start putting the colored wires on there okay now that one officially is 5 volts or 12 volts up until this moment it doesn't really matter and this is kind of cool way to do it because we'll work that way and all of that based on the colors exactly to do so we'll have to make sure though i brought my meter over here and test the end of one of these and then here and there to make sure they're all the five volt lines now there are a lot of like tools meant specifically for tesla wiring on the other hand one of the things you want to do is only use tools specifically for it and not use them for any other job if you're only doing one wiring harness or your own harness it's kind of hard to follow that but it's a good goal very very hot here it's 103 degrees outside so my hands are slipping a little bit and i'm actually wiping down the harness from all the oils on my hands to prevent that from causing problems especially as we go to put the heat shrink on now we have moments like that you have to make sure that you're not cutting the wire you inspect them all at once so all of these are actually going to fit inside of one of these crimps kind of like this i'll clean up the lengths a little bit but they'll all fit straight through there and then crimp through to the exposed wire of this and then i'll heat shrink it with that type of heat shrink it's actually a sticky heat shrink my goal is to actually seal these off so that way if say moisture or whatever got into the harness and it got through to this section and this section that it didn't cause a harness to short out inside of it highly unlikely but why take the chance at all this little brass thing i actually clean off the edges right there those can cut through the heat shrink pretty easily there are multiple ways to do these major crimps this is actually a pretty reasonably priced one tool is expensive it's basically just a standard type of crimping tool but with extra leverage right there it's ready to go doesn't matter until we make it matter i'm gonna cut this wire and cut it kind of back so they're not all in line i kind of want to stagger them like i did it back here because look at you can't even notice that they're all staggered i'll start this one here no it doesn't really really matter because all of a sudden you now have this bundle of wires past it you know it's consistency there i'm gonna put this little guy on this nub and then we're going to there we go that's looking really good use another zip tie now we're ready to crimp and i don't want to miss one so there we go this will all fit inside of this quite nicely so what i'm going to do now is just check each of these wires make sure none of them just pull out ahead and tighten this a little bit more i'm not actually going harder i'm just making sure the ends of that brass piece don't stick up and then we're going to heat shrink this piece onto right here partially to cap those ends a little bit partially so it builds the thickness of this wire up so when i put the other side on it'll seal to both of those it is 102 degrees and i'm wearing a gopro chest mount so i'm even hotter and i have a battery pack in my pocket that's heating up it is not cold that looks good that as this twists around it does not stay in line with the sensor ground so this will stay pretty close to aiming i'm actually using the sticky version mostly for protecting this like i said earlier with the oils and whatnot but partially so that way when you pull on one of these it's not forced to just be on the crimp itself so it's got a little bit of what they call strain relief we now have this whole bundle which is capable of going to almost exact end the only one that goes this far is actually this green and black one that's for the crank angle sensor everything else kind of takes an exit before that this is the last one and that is my 12 volts and you guys get the idea same concept with this one right here i wanted to show you guys a not so gopro view of the wiring harness so far on this end is where the ecu is and then i've got four spare black wires that you'll see somewhere in here stop and then start back up right there ignore those those are just filler wires we have a couple of crimps that gives us a ground the three that are down there a sensor ground 5 volts and 12 volts and then the rest of the core of this harness continues on until it starts to crimp right here and that's where you see the dotted reds those are five volts the solid reds those are 12 volts and then the blacks those are all sensor grounds the two thicker ones right there those are engine ground and then the two longer ones they're actually dried by wire i just want to make sure i had thicker wire for that because i want to make sure it's as responsive as possible right here is of course going to be the back of the motor i'm also going to trim these back right before the crimps so that way it makes an even tighter smaller spot here i'm going to start adding the next layer which is actually the reason that i have the kept on tape this tape right here is ultimately going to be like a teflon holding this layer together and allowing the layer on top of it to slide back and forth as the harness gets bent once i get to this point right here i'm going to go backwards and do all the heat shrink on this part so that's all done and then we've got this wild cat 9 tails if you're into kinky going to the end of the engine then we can take our time getting each of those dolled out but i want to make sure that i don't go too far without making this center section heat shrinked because my god once you fill in this side with the ecu and fill in that side with the sensors you can't get back to the middle there are a lot of really cool ways of calculating how wide the diameter of the next layer of this harness or you can be lazy and kind of a visual learner like me and just simply cut up that's about 27 of them and spin them all the way around and that's kind of the idea of what the next layer is going to look like thankfully it helped me determine that i'm going to have to pull one of these out of there just like i said there's tons of math you take the diameter of this stalk and then you figure out the diameter of these it's tons of circles around a circle around a circle and away you go or spend about four dollars in wire and figure it out the step that i cut out from here to there is pretty obvious i took whatever that is 25 wires of various colors for the different sensors and whatnot and i simply cut them all to the same length 72 inches long and then it took a little bit of work to get them to all spin around that part right there you can see i'm spinning them the opposite way of the inner layer that makes it even easier for them not to get stuck on the inner layer and of course i have all the little bits of tape that will also help it slide i am going to cut every single one of those zip ties off that's going to be a pain in the ass especially while trying to do youtube but i'm gonna just simply be braiding all the way down these wires for those you're wondering are all wires meant to go to the engine not ones that go inside the car right here clutch switch or transmission or anything like that those all will be on another outer layer we'll talk about that in a second very first thing i'm going to do is actually get wild and cut this zip tie right here use these nice little tiny ones so that way i don't cut anything else this is simply a step of barbies where i'm going to basically braid these all bring them all in like this nice swoop of hair i guess oh i forgot to clear this off but we're simply going to take this whole thing watch it whip and then probably nae nae over to the other side no longer necessary get all these wires out of the way so they don't confuse so we're simply going to massage these into place i did some calculations to get the exact number right on this part i'm spending a lot of time kind of combing down the rest of that because that's obviously a complete i'm actually going to twist it just that little bit more and it it does also help tighten them up this is where it starts to look really pretty of course there's a certain angle of twisting that you want it's generally right around there and that angle is meant so that way when you bend the whole thing it can not kink unless that is your kink but we're just going to start it right there see how it starts to twist on themselves this actually is wearing quite a bit of a challenge you could fit one more in there if we really wanted to you can see that little bit of gap i added another green one because i was thinking about making that optional and i added it down here and it just slid in perfectly there's a little bit of space maybe for another one but i am going to leave it as is because it gives that nice little bit of flex and the rest of this is really just popping all these off and it's going down the chain purpose put tape before during and after the splices you'll notice that here and here and then i put some in the middle along the runner we'll see how well that works i'm actually just doing this just to get them out of the way not even anything more it's already kind of ready to be in their spots like this [Music] oh [Music] [Music] coming up to this first intersection here and this is where we want to make sure that they go around these three without really interfering none of these break off at the same spot so they're just kind of passing through so these will just kind of poke through at different spots i think [Music] it's working but just barely [Music] let's take a look at this there's a little bit of a cluster right there [Music] i made that pretty sour without any major problems [Music] defending these would definitely be a better strategy next time [Music] that was rather painful i seriously have one just stuck through there this one needs to come off because it's actually incorrectly set up for those layers around made me lay the groundwork for this step this is very gratifying just combing this down like this [Music] stop it there because another one of these appreciate how it's coming together this is so nice and we're finally to the main point where we're going to stop twirling all these because they no longer twirl they split out to all different things [Music] this is straight over it stops [Music] there we go there is every single wire all the way to where they start to split off and the adventure gets crazy back there but those are all the wires so we'll end up taking like one of these one of these one of these and that'll be for a lot of the temp and pressure sensors and then of course injectors and wastegate and whatnot all there very first thing i want you to notice is how much smaller this harness is that's insane that's the whole harness as far as the engine is concerned i just want to admire this real quick before we wrap it all up but there is 20.5 inches of the core harness between where things split off and get ugly that section is .46 inches wide which sucks because 0.5 plus we could use a little bit thicker of this right here there's the dr25 uk just means that it's got the white instead of the united states yellow what you do that's actually kind of complicated but you get used to it over time is see how this is three quarter inch well it'll shrink down to three eighths inch so three quarter is .75 so it'll be half of that the problem is if you did one inch it shrinks down to half an inch so it's a two to one shrink ratio that means that this point four four inch thick set of wire would just be banging around inside that one inch tube we don't want that we have to use something slightly more snug so i'm gonna cut off 20.5 inches of that go back to the gopro and show you how this section is finished up a little bit longer while this stuff's already thicker than the 3m stuff that i use i can feel it that's already a positive sign it feels more like garden hose than the actual heat shrink that's probably why it's so much more expensive it's going to go almost directly to the end of that we don't want the heat shrink sticking over that so we are going to cut it down just a little bit okay it's a little bit better so this is going to get interesting i'm going to try a little trick cutting the ends of these off so we don't have to mess with any of this it's actually the first time we're taking this off of here for a second so far everything's playing nice we're gonna have to get creative in a second so the first issue is that these are not going to pop out in time for that end so we're just gonna slide this all the way past here and we'll just pull these back through here we're gonna go ahead and crush this tip back in here and then we get to see this slide back into its correct position okay this is much beefier than i was expecting so i don't feel so bad using the slightly thinner stuff but we're going to go ahead and start shrinking that up we're going to end up splitting all these up there's going to be shrimp coming all the way here then we'll tape the center area and then put sticky tape between the two of those to hold the sections together and then we'll put some basically epoxy into here so that's all heat shrinked and waterproof kind of same concept right here there'll be an extra row of wires going outside of this going on to these there nothing else goes from there to there this is my very first raycam piece i hope i don't screw it up i'm going to start from one end because it kind of shrinks as it goes so i'll start from the end i really want to make sure it stays at good so far it can much be here this does not have adhesive in it so the wires can move freely inside of this [Music] that is rather impressive looking it hasn't shrunk all the way as i was intending i need some more heat look at that that's what we don't want the good news is this stuff is really resilient to heat it certainly is showing by the way that this process is going which makes me feel good about how to handle this generic heat in the engine bay it's impressive i was thinking that that wouldn't be the right choices by far the right choice okay that takes a lot more to get it formed but my god is that amazing wow that is so flexible too it shrunk on both sides at least an eighth of an inch that's also good to know didn't see that going on as it was happening but it's still on the tape so that's good too but there you have the core core core of the harness just a quick preview that's the center of my harness for this car oh that is beautiful all these wires inside of this need to stay safe obviously but imagine they need to stay oil safe well now we've made this piece we have to make this thing basically oil proof from end to end and so we're going to make sure that when we put a piece of heat shrink through this whole section the glued heat shrink will basically waterproof these together same thing on this end all the other heat shrinks go into the engine will get then glued together you could cut all the wires outside of this thing cap all the ends over here off fill it with water from that end and you would have a vessel you'd have a thing that could hold water or air tight and definitely temperature resistant as well so we caught a little bit of a lucky break right here my fear was that this section would be difficult to get to from that side well that would be absolutely the case and then my other fear was once we start filling in this side of the harness it would be difficult to get to the center again why do we need to get to right here well we have to make a section that goes between this and all the pieces here it's going to be all sticky it's going to go like that this area here though is where we get kind of a lucky break i've already cut most of the wires needed for that area but it will end up needing a whole separate layer but it's not much thicker this piece right here based on measurements this section will finally be big enough it's over 0.625 which is 5 8 of an inch i know that from all the doweling and so this is an inch and a quarter and i know that that means that that will shrink onto that impressively enough so with this shrinking onto that and it of course will be even crazier over here this will absolutely fit over whatever we have to throw in the way right there we're basically good to just continue on so i've pre-cut all of these what are these well six of them are the ignition signals so these are just data lines they go to the coils the smart coils so there's six of those there three of these are sensors and that includes the clutch pedal and some other things inside the car and these are all data lines to relays so for example turn on the fuel system turn on the fans turn on the water pump and a spare so those are all of our lines that we absolutely need they're hypercritical to this well we know that we want them to go off with this bundle particularly technically these six don't need to they can go off on their own but that means that we're gonna have to tape that area and get this layer on top of it so we're gonna set these back down a little bit of tape real quick on the other side of this i think i want to make it as close here as possible so we do want these to come down but this does move just a little bit because there's no adhesive on it we'll pull that back just a little bit we're going to go back to our zip ties and we're going to actually go the opposite way of the previous layer we know that we want them to end up roughly there [Music] this time i'm working kind of backwards and they're much shorter so this is a lot easier to do but these don't need to be this long so i'm working off of what this side ends up being the only downside to the concentric twisting is that it shortens the wires and you can actually probably figure it out i'm just gonna use the advantage that these are short and i see where they end up and then kind of pull them the other way what you're noticing is that i'm not finishing this layer i am actually going to cut a bunch of sadly a bunch of wasted wire and fit them in on this as well kind of wonder if i want to make them like ground so the harness is naturally grounded i want to like use the dead wire for something useful but it's already looking really cool something i've noticed is that dr 25 so the heat shrink is much thicker and as a result you could probably hide or get away with a layer of this not that if you were professional you'd want to do that but you could probably get away with it and it wouldn't look like my other harnesses where it looks like a boner and sweatpants and you can just tell that there's a layer missing i'm just gonna set this here before we put any tape down and just kind of figuring things out this is the first time i've gone on any of my harnesses i've gone this many layers sadly we're just gonna fill all of this extra space in with what looks like a waste of layers i'm actually kind of making some official steps here so this is where i want to put this because then all of these wires going to the connections i'm going to back up a step okay so what i'm worried about is when i go to put the pins on everything here i don't have enough wire to work with and that was my reason for making this section so long because i'd have plenty to work with there's no reason for this extra length to be honest and put the tape kind of back an inch it's not much i think the layer underneath it's a little bit further up but again not too worried i'm gonna go ahead and cut more of the wires and then fill this line in but this is really how it just goes rinse and repeat i now have the spares all set up and it made me wonder off camera the reason i hate this concept is because of the cost what is the cost how much does it cost to make this is now 13 wires and they're all approximately two feet long well it's ends up being about 26 cents for at least the average guy like me like in terms of buying it online 26 cents a foot long story short comes out to about fourteen dollars so this is fourteen dollars of wire just gone for the sake of i guess looks and functionality and not snagging the harness on anything it's worth it but it's still fourteen dollars just to put it into perspective the kit for this dr25 was 600 50. the kit for the sticky type that's here is like 60 bucks each of these wires now you're talking about a thousand dollar harness i think almost in materials of course spares and like that but 14 means nothing in the grand scheme of things that mindset i don't like it looks like sadly i'm gonna need to spend more money on these spares because that's not gonna be enough another four dollars down the drain i made a minor mistake of making them the same color right next to the color that i was going to use i'm going to mix that up a little bit move them over here because that's just asking for confusion i think using red and white was kind of a bad idea too because that's really confusing to look at but there's a center chunk right here basically all good to go kind of work backwards do this one again so my goal is to have them all kind of lay down right [Music] get them all here the same spot don't even need to cut them and do this right [Music] [Music] right to the edge there so this is something i'm still working on is exactly how to do these parts but i certainly believe it will go something like this basically taping all of these down this is that area where the sticky tape is going to potentially stick to the actual wires one of the reasons using this tape is so that way the outer layer of goo whether it's epoxy or tape or whatever doesn't stick to the wires underneath that's pretty snug let me kind of rework the rest of this to fit that [Music] so those are all the good ones so i'm gonna cut all these just to really reduce confusion we really only want them going to the tape right here that's that's their only job it's gonna protect the harness up to this point so i'm purposely twisting this outer layer a little bit more as far as it lets me anyway that way it can bend as much as possible too i'll do the most stressful thing i think i've done so far so i'm gonna end up taping right to there [Music] [Music] a little bit of wiggle room in there so might as well do what wants to do this is major progress because that's the core of the harness on this side so before we go to wrap that up we should have six ignition coils three six three inputs four outputs sensor ground 12 volts in five volts out he's moved a little bit i don't like that part at least the yellows are on the outside so those will go into one harness and this will go into another okay so now let's hope this section okay we're slightly over 0.5 which means we can use the one-inch stuff from as close as possible here all the way to halfway here that gives us enough room to kind of pin and move these around and splice and do all that so we need to measure that distance well these are the 500 or 600 set of dr25 white the investment so it's honestly worth it and there's the 60 sticky box so those two work together you get 15 feet of the one inch see how this will treat us that's crazy that that's actually gonna fit in there and then we're right there and i'm actually going to cut it a little long because now we know that it wants to shrink and fortunately this stuff isn't sticky so we can also move it so when you're building a normal harness adding all these extra wires would have made it impossible at this point to get anything to the center part so that's why i did the center part first just for clarification just gonna go to there go to here get rid of that this little guy will get under there we want that this one need to shrink like that starting to feel like a real harness and that's why i've moved this all the way back here i need a lot of room to manipulate and do all these crazy things with all these and put these almost nose to nose and we should see it shrink up and come back on that side super curious to see how this 1 inch section works [Music] this is going to take a little bit more work but it's certainly jeez it's hot it's the right size but oh my god is it just just barely certainly going to prevent any sort of damage to the wiring harness inside of there but you can see it's a little loose in certain spots and especially i noticed where the name is printed i'm gonna double check after the fact of course 5.4 yeah so it's certainly the right thickness but i mean we're trying to shrink it all the way to its maximum shrink so it's going to fight me a little bit along the way i purposely squeezed it back a little bit this way so it's still back on the tape that leaves this a little bit exposed but again remember if i was to put epoxy or anything in there that tape is protecting the wires from it but we're getting close i have simply braided this one it's all six wires it's gonna have a plug that comes out at this end and then this one i also braided but i added four extra wires into there so that way it is nice and smooth on this side as well so i've measured this one and the best is going to be this 3 8 because it's like 3 16 somewhere in there actually let me make sure it's slightly smaller than a quarter inch so i can't use half inch we're going to use 3 8. try to shove it all the way to that crotch right there and then i'm actually going to cut right past that somewhere in here and i might actually wrap this one a little bit more with the tape all the way up to here the reason being is that the the bottom area is actually just to hold the tips of these in we'll just let the dr25 figure out where that is these wires are now going to behave as much as possible we're going to take our chunk of 3 8. this is our first experiment with how this is on this side once we get to that side we want to really understand what we're doing we want to guess work that goes all the way down there to a little bit longer than i was expecting it'll shrink a little bit let's find [Music] this out is just resilient that's poking through on this end i cut it this way [Music] man that just looks so so professional because again all those extra wires do make that look nice and clean super flexible this little guy is actually going to be my quarter inch and be careful with this because i don't have much 25 feet will go very quickly on this end quarter inch and then actually this one's my 3 16. i'll use a lot of 316 as well i might not i might go to all the quarter inch because uh this stuff's thinner but normally i'm doing a lot of 3 16 unlike the normal harnesses this one really does not have to be this long i'm probably going to have to order more so let's see how much this one shrinks this is going to go right to my shrunk i cut it a little short so in preparation for that not being catastrophe i'm going to go ahead and wrap it even further down here just in case because again i do not need these this long this is just the wire happen to be this length these are just passing data [Music] there we go also extremely flexible so now we're left with this area right here and this is going to be our very first test of how much i can make sure this works so i'm assuming let's see this is going to be 0.71 i could use one inch the one inch sticky this is inch and a quarter and it'll certainly work this is inch exactly and it will definitely work and so i think i want to use the inch partially because it's cheaper partially because this isn't the same type of situation where you need to make the biggest one that can work in here this has got adhesive i want it to clamp down and i want it to hold so i'm going to tape within there just one more round inside of there and then get all the grease off of this part this one's on the inside of the car not that critical who knows i'm gonna purposely try to do this one as properly as possible to learn what i can do for the outer ones all of this this one's gonna be the most critical one right here because it's gonna go to like seven major stocks and a couple other things so this is kind of a good test for that when you look at the horsepower academy they actually suggest taking like sandpaper so i think you'll see me do that that is not my original thought so i already did the other ones on the inside i'm not too worried about this i just wanted to make sure it's all held together okay so i'm going to get some rough sandpaper frozen grit that seems reasonable enough what you're doing is creating a lot of surface area the whole reason for this so we now know exactly how long this has to be and we are going to use the one inch one and we're going to make it this slightly larger than the area i've scuffed so this side doesn't need as much so i'm going to favor the side where these need to be held in at so i'm going to kind of do something like maybe that what's somebody going to do they're going to rip and pull with these the more glue that's on that side the better i've done this before but not with any of the professional proper tools right there one of the things you'll see a lot in the horsepower academy is strain relief and that is something that they taught me beautifully i'm going to put this here so that way it holds those there wish me luck i don't like how short that got to be honest and i messed up there but the glue is sticking and it is almost completely covered except for the areas inside the center between these three that is like a crotch of an area where there is actually air and but not else able to get in there that is certainly holding everything right there not my finest work but it's also my first what we're going to do is we're going to learn how to pot we're going to learn how to put potting compound basically epoxy inside of this triangle shape area to continue this glue all the way into the center there so we fully seal the air from outside here to inside of there this turned out better than i was expecting i'm very very pleased with it the gopro can't do it justice but what i'm about to do on this side of it is actually use a cheat more or less to get the rest of it done this is the hardest part i would think at least to make it look simple because that's the core of the harness but back there i can actually use just about any rotary engine this is a two rotor but that knot that you saw where all the wires come out goes to right here on the very back of the engine and so whether it's a two road or three rotor four rotor they all have the same path to their oil sensors oil temps all these down here generally speaking they all have the same rear rotor second rotor you can use this and then use your imagination from there of course the one thing that is different is that the crank ankle sensor is longer on a three or a four rotor but intake manifold all those are roughly in the same spot and we'll use those to make this harness i do want to take a real quick close-up of this i reworked it because i went too hot on the glue and i didn't scratch it enough with thicker sandpaper it looks a lot better this time and then we'll work on porting that but i just want to show a real up-close shot of all this all those wires are hidden inside here and just super happy with how this turned out could certainly use a little bit more heat almost looks simple and that's the goal when you do something like this here's where all this planning comes into play big time right now we could make every single one of these wires go to every single thing that it needs to and we would waste a lot of really expensive heat shielding what we need to do is try and make little stalks or trunks that go from this center area in the back of the motor and then have like a major pathway to here major pathway to here and so on keep in mind the center of the harness no longer matters it is the center as it goes across the motor but it is no longer the center of the harness it can just basically just goes into the ways that you planned so what i'm going to do from back here is have the grounds which i ground everything to right here that's where the center of the whole car is grounded right to the back of the rear iron i'll have the grounds come out for sure by themselves that's simple by itself then we'll also have about a 10 inch section basically i'll just measure from here to the center of this iron and that will be the stalk where i will put all six injectors each injector requires a 12 volts and the ecu signal so that'll be what six injectors 12 lines and then branch out as efficiently as possible over here i'll have a stock that goes to oil pressure and oil temperature somewhere in the middle here i'll have another stock that goes to the throttle which is going to be up here this area as well as intake air temperature i'm going to have some extra bonus things going all the way down to the end so i don't know maybe i'll bundle those all in the core and they'll get to about here and then start splitting off what you guys are about to watch is probably worth playing some smooth jazz too so joel when you see this surprise smooth jazz moment but what i'm going to do is basically organize all of these wires into sections it's tedious but it's actually one of the easier projects once you've got this all planned out if you've got this far with a wiring harness this is actually probably the easier steps so you can see all the injectors are all going to the same spot oil oil fuel pressure flex fuel if i want that that was another one drive by wire and air temperature crank angle sensor has the coolant temp sensor and spare communications and then a whole stock for the exhaust pressure turbo speed and electronic wastegate and then there's the su ground there i am going to start separating it into these now the first one on this is my injectors undo the hair get it all back to about right there we don't have to follow the center of the harness that's just holding it up right now undo all of these there's the ecu ground and these two are the tripod wire throttle so those come off there too i want this to have full flexibility as we're looking at this these should end up kind of crossing over or sticking under and then going to somewhere over there so we'll set those down like that we do know that all of the solid reds which are 12 volts they're all stuck together anyway should be six of these two three four five six oh yeah there's eight two more for spare things so we'll try and make this as pretty as possible we'll take ones that want to be close to each other they're all crimped together but i just want to make sure that these all like this these two will go to other things and then i will have these injectors which should be these six of these right here i'm trying to make sure that all of these wires can go back as far into the guts of this thing so that way we don't have a long ass knot in here that these are all going to right there so i feel pretty good about this one six and six that could change some just zip tie them together then i wanted to have these two go to their own thing it's a little wasteful but i love the flexibility of moving the ground around injectors are always the easiest one oil oil fuel fuel so some of this i'm just kind of doing from memory sometimes i'm not we know that every sensor needs a sensor ground so the sensor ground is in the center of the harness for that reason easy to get to all the black lines and then all the red lines are for pressure sensors so it's kind of like a grab bag grown ground flex fuel fuel pressure that's four grounds four sensor lines and then two pressure lines means two five volt lines nice way of designing a harness this way is that all the pre-wired flying leads you're like okay this wire has to be this one right now i'm just picking physically which wires work best close to each other and i'm working around that and that is actually very very nice of course i'm following color trends but that's it okay four sensors four grounds drive by wire airflow air temp air temp is thankfully one of these so drive by wire is two wires air temp is one wire definitely need a five volts for that whole drive by wire setup this will end up cleaning this up a little bit and most importantly the drive bar gets its control lines which are all the way down here two drive by wire control lines drop our sensor ground air temp sensor here's some sensor ground five volts then whittles away very quickly let's focus on emap the emap is easy because that's pressure sensors get five volts okay there's a pressure sensor emap turbo is another five volt that part works out well as well one of these and then egate is two of these yellows which are kind of inconveniently on the other side i do not recall if the e-gate takes more yeah the e-gate does take five volt emap five volt turbo another five-volt for the e-gate two e-gate heinz temp in position gate control power so we are currently left with these wires one of them is supposed to be the transmission speed that one goes that way do not mess this part up take this one this one will go to this bundle i will take this one out of this bundle this one goes into this bundle and these two are now transmission speed sensor so that leaves us with a lot less a lot of these would be spares the easy ground we got all those done engine coolant temps so we're guaranteed a set of these goes down this is engine coolant so it's guaranteed to go down here that when we make as long as possible and this we have essentially a spare 12 a spare 5 volts a spare sensor ground two spare sensors and then three spare controls this actually worked out better than i was expecting that work better or worse that seems kind of worse if they do go around this [Music] i don't think it's enough though so everything is accounted for and it's pretty tight better than i was expecting not perfect but not bad this is where i want to make stalks i'm not exactly seeing easier ways to do some of this this just is it's actually going to kind of fan out a little bit instead of being circular there we go okay i like this i like this a lot so my biggest concern is this one right here i want them to be all together until they're not and then the downside is how many wires is it going to take to cover this properly i'll make sure that i add a couple in there that's how you that's how you do it so i've made some very executive decisions on how this harness is going to play out and i think that most of these are going to get a little eight inch extension saves me from wiring all those separately like this core part of the harness will actually get a one foot extension so these wires aren't as beautiful or as perfect just because there's not a center per se this this one will make it look good but this little one right here not so much making this a little bit tighter or at least more twisted so that way it fits the heat shrink even more because i'm going to try to use 3 8. that is the injectors right there best 1.7 that's 3 16 so this will have a little bit of wiggle room in it because then my next best guess is to go to a quarter inch which i really want to avoid using would work though maybe i'll do a quarter inch bit but i'm going to need a ton more really small stuff this one's the egate so this one will go much further [Music] really come together quite nicely and then these last handful of wires [Music] and one pair for the engine [Music] this is something i wanted to do in the last harness let's actually finish this it basically gives us the core of the harness nice and clean right there just focus on just this part it looks so much easier actually looks like there's a lot less in the harness hi baby kitty i want to add a couple wires to this section [Music] now this should be perfect for the 3 8. [Music] there's the beginning of the next step of the harness that one turned out really good okay yeah they didn't turn out as nice as i wanted it to it still works so i'm going to do eight inch sections here i have the choice between this and this and i'm definitely going to do this again with this harness finally at this point i'm going to remember some things of course that would have been useful a couple minutes ago and that is that i am going to use another piece of non-sticky stuff just to cover that gap and then put sticky stuff over that i remember that after the fact thankfully this harness should let me maybe get past there we'll find out i don't think it'll slide on at all on this side so let's hope sid's feeling generous good sign please go past this and i don't think it's going to this is a perfect example of why you do this at a time that is sadly wasted and that was three quarter inch you can cheat make the same thing out of this is one inch this is basically guaranteed to fit through here okay please work thank you this should actually fit in here i've covered all that with yellow tape definitely helps bridge the gap so this is one inch as well maybe should be able to get away with exactly this piece do something like that we will thread this one on exactly where i want that i'm not gonna go full heat and then we have the core of the harness done i'm going to finish the rest of this tomorrow there's a whole day of work honestly getting to this point even though i've done a couple harnesses so i went ahead and labeled all of these and learned a little bit of myself along the way but i used the nice a simple label printer cheap one whatever 20 30 bucks printed the label out cut it out a little bit and then wrapped it around there but labels fall off the adhesive is horrible for wiring so i then bought clear heat shrink and put it over it now the problem is i made the heat shrink way too long and it actually makes the wire less bendable i didn't realize that this clear heat shrink would be so inflexible so what i did as i was going through it i started cutting it down to this size because your goal is actually to keep the name clean not so much oil out from under it the name is obviously the most important it'll be stuck there indefinitely so i'll keep working on making that better i have all these labeled and how did i label them well i went backwards and figured out exactly which stocks were what something as big as this one crank ankle sensor so i just went through and traced those that said i now have to kind of take the next major step which is the ecu side of this on this side we have four layers i've span them out a little bit we're going to start from the very middle layer and that is the other end of the crank angle sensor that's the very center of this we are going to make sure that the shield that's inside of here is actually grounded to the engine chassis not to sensor ground and that'll prevent any weirdness of taking down the rest of the engine or the harness what i'm going to do simple enough is actually take my multi-tool this will be your big friend here and i'll tell you what you can actually buy all these weird ass and on amazon for a couple dollars and you have choices on which ones to use for every one of the wires that are the same color as the other ones you're just going to strip back a little bit of the wire so we strip this wire and then i'm going to attach it on like so and trace that wire down now that is a i set the meter down to be when i'm touching that and on this end one of two things i already kind of know where those thicker red ones are but sit so for example we'll check this one and oddly enough that first one happened to be the right one one by one you go through and you pick them and you you do what you need to accordingly the reason i'm doing that is these thicker black wires some of them i made a mistake and didn't cut them back like this because i didn't know exactly what i was going to do on this end yet and so some of these don't go to anything what i want to do is find which ones those are cut them back so that way they're just not in the way i'm gonna go ahead and continue figuring out which wires aren't needed and we'll be right back i've determined which ones are the spare wires in here and we're just gonna trim them back even more just to get them out of the way of thinking one of the major things that you have to do on the computer end of any harness is deal with your crank ankle position this one's kind of the only wire that has multiple wires in it and we actually have to bring it back to a point where we're going to do some business with it we'll just start here we can always go back further there's a whole wire nest inside of this thing so you have to be very careful i'll start from the tips the tip just to show you i'm kind of grabbing just the the sheath it's all metal inside i don't want to cut any of this you can see there's a braided wire and that's the shielding we'll take that all the way back here and the reason why is we want that shielding to ground out to the engine side of power pulled that sheathing off of there and something i saw a real cool trick i saw on hp academy is they unwrapped all of this back here and they basically snaked the wire out from the side here not an easy task to say the least they always make these wires so thin asking to be damaged so pull that out that's one of the two wires and then the other one should come out much easier i hope that's very hard to do while trying to hold the dam harness there we are so those are the two signal wires needed on the crank angle sensors different cars are different a lot of cars you actually would have one of these wires the black one go to sensor ground but on this one on the fuel tank these two wires actually go specifically to two signals they will stay separate kind of clean this up and we're going to be crimping all this wire to these two so that way that is now grounded that's why i wanted it kind of further back i might take it further back even so that way we're not wasting a lot of this distance from here to here take it far back as i can safely and then everything else can just be pinned to the ecu what i have done is i've made the shield into a little nub and then these two ground wires same rough length all right like that i'm then going to take these two as well this is very tedious work and i've got some heavy duty like double level crimpers these are not cheap crimpers and they allow you to multiply the force on this little brass piece here and i'm going to put them all in there there's like a whole science and math behind using the correct size one of these brass things to the amount of wire you have in this case i'm just doing going off of what i've experienced in the past that's worked feed these also back into it a proper wiring harness person especially if you're watching which i'm sure you've already thrown up by now a proper wiring harness person would actually have done these crimps before making the harness but i'm still not comfortable enough with the lengths of everything this is how the little brass pieces come they're really relatively inexpensive the crimper itself is is the most expensive part but these things small medium and large basically deceiving with this axle wire this really nice wire because they look like they should be a lot smaller and they are not what you see me doing is just kind of gently holding it so far so good they make little arms and stuff to help hold all these wires in my case i'm trying to do it for the camera that is probably overfilled a little bit but i am still okay with that make sure there's no wires in the whole crimper sometimes you'll get wires that'll go in here and then you'll crush those you have to be careful about that too that's lost a couple wires that way pull back before going all the way it actually makes a nice little clean setup like that making sure that all looks good and then i'm going to go ahead and just just gently crimp it on the front side of the backside just to take these little edges off because those edges i think would cut through over time that would cut like heat shrink or whatever the case i'm just kind of more or less doing this just to round the corners one last time in the middle the brass forms around it so you get kind of an indented way but there you go that is a nice and clean way of having the grounds also provide the grounding for the crank angle sensor so i'm now going to wrap this in heat shrink and then wrap the whole area in heat shrink so it kind of holds it all together these wires are honestly the strongest wires in the whole harness partially because they're you know the biggest wires but they're also holding on to the center of the center of the harness and that's the strongest part of that too these also are slightly shorter now than the rest of the wires and i kind of like that because if you were to pull on this harness and you didn't have heat shrink to adhesive this is what will get pulled first and that's the strongest part of the harness i kind of appreciate that versus sensor wires getting pulled out and you blow your motor fuel tech sold me the connectors for the ft600 they're super seal amp super seal connectors pretty straightforward they do open and close with this little connector right here so this is pushed down it locks all the pins in place and then to release the pins push right here and open it back up what we're going to do like i said earlier take the two battery grounds the two ecu battery grounds one goes in each of these connectors so we are going to pin these and then have them hold each of the connectors just sitting right here so we can figure out where the rest will go i am going to do something that i have seen before is again my first harness to try all this but i'm going to do that thing where i twist the wire kind of a little corkscrew shape like right here like that not too tight the reason why is so that way if you were to pull on it at least the wire has some give there's a little bit of like last second give we'll hide all of that because they'll all be curly cued and it'll shorten the length a little bit which is fine this is exactly how much i wanted there'll be two connectors you know side by side the connector doesn't have something to hold on to i might just take some of this stuff which expands when you push on it and since this is the ecu and it's this isn't a watertight connector to begin with we'll just put this stuff inside here so it's just out of sight out of mind nobody can really nick it on accident i don't really have a good solution a lot of those heavy duty wiring guys do i do not i'll start pinning these out it's really really straightforward i haven't gotten to the ultra professional level yet but these pins have two parts the one part is for the wire the next part is for the wiring jacket these super steel ones have these two little like uh it's gonna say anal beads there's two little anal beads on there those are different than like your typical ones for a dt deutsche connector totally different looks similar not the same i have a different tool this one you get for like 20 bucks on amazon or whatever bends the two blades in like that you kind of hold it in there crimp it so we'll do that actually with the very first wire clip it like that crimp it with the even smaller one there you go you have a real nice clean crimp there it's holding onto the wires and then i do love this style where you have these digging into the plastic outer and that's the best part because tefl is even stronger that is a beefy connection and i'll review the fuel tech's website we found it on the website we're simply going to press this in and because these are the 16 gauge wires it's very easy to do and it makes a nice little semi pop if it doesn't go all the way in to where you can see it on the edge right there probably something wrong with the lock on there don't over force it smaller wires they'll kind of collapse if you push them too hard so you have to be very careful with the really small ones that's why i'm starting with these bigger ones and now it's holding that connector in space this is what i'm doing over and over again it is nice when you have a flying lead harness where these are already done but there's a benefit to this is that you can just kind of pick and choose and be a little bit more lazy on hey you know what we'll let these go in this order what is nice is that this ecu and most ecu's you can just pick hey this sensor is sensor one the sensor sensors too while we do have it where hey this one's already labeled as a flex fuel sensor we will have to find it and then we just put it in any sensor port we want and really nice there but these are just going crimping one after another nice and straightforward super predictable crimping the wires and then pushing the strain relief pieces and then just gently crimping those i actually once in my past wiring days crimped the screen relief too hard and it actually cut the wire off the piece so you don't want to crimp those too hard but nice little check on each one of those there we go we'll do these last couple ones and i'll show you how to do the next step one of the greatest things about building wiring harnesses is thinking ahead and that is probably the hardest thing to do and that's the greatest skill needed for this but what we're going to do is take some of this remnant stuff that i have from a mid-level harness and put this over this area now this is actually kind of a good test because if this snags and catches on these things and pulls them out well we know they were not terminated properly but my goal is to end up having it kind of look like this more or less better than having the wires fully exposed so we're going to slide that all the way back there and then i have this piece which i hope shrinks down way more than it looks to hold the end of this in the correct spot we'll just kind of set that out of the way we'll go back to terminating all these and all i'm doing is twisting them it's going to be a complete mess but i'm just simply twisting each one and then putting it into the spot that i'm aiming for most of these like all these white wires not these two these are the crank angle sensor but all these other white wires you can even though there are specific wires in the harness you can actually just say one two three four five six seven eight the ones that you can't do that to are the green ones and the yellow ones those are all like hey this is ignition one ignition two injector one injector two and so on so if not all the colors can mix over the white ones actually that's a nice little shortcut for saving us some time but in a couple seconds you're about to see a really bushy tail on the end of this harness after all of that work i put them all in there and found them in their correct locations it's very hard to make something look that simple and of course there's extra ground i forgot about on there but we're perfectly fine from a structural standpoint these both plug into the back of the fuel tech 600 like that and like that and so i want to make sure that the wires are all kind of rested in a spot that is best for that which is going to be something kind of in that area and then i'm hoping we'll see right here this little thing might not work exactly as i wanted to but i wanted to just kind of cover the wires especially if we ever need to modify anything this is the sort of stuff like i said that it's all trial and error here and i think it might play nice a little bit but not as nice as i want i was then going to use heat shrink and hold it in right here and have it cover the rest of these wires i need to look at doing this better and that's kind of half the fun of learning i got to squeeze it together to make it bigger what are we talking about in this case i think that's almost good enough i'm gonna wrap it the end up in tape i made this because my string gauge shifter i wasn't forgotten about but fuel tech likes to have that kind of be on a separate little thing out of the rest of the harness but i still wanted it to be on the harness and then we'll just bring this up and over and then heat shrink that on and at least still just kind of keep the wires a little bit more organized kind of hold both this and that in place and i don't think this is the best solution at all it certainly is still a solution and it cleans those up a little bit more kind of use this to hold the rest of them in place and then trim them from there they make boots and stuff for this but i just i'm still learning okay that is atrocious at best you might see the three rotor later and it'll have none of this it's sticking to itself but it's not sticking to that that was a massive flop so here's the temp number two i've wrapped kept on tape from here all the way down we're gonna slide this from the back side so we're gonna heat shrink this on and then kind of let it go until it stops somewhere probably right in there and we'll leave it at that but don't do this until the hardness is completely finished i feel overly confident and i just kind of want to finish that corner again this is kind of fun to test different methods for this unless it's something this massive you are not going to get it back over this harness so we lucked out that this random piece came with the haltech harness it feels like it's not going to shrink that's my favorite part about this so we want them to kind of stay like that and then we'll just let this thing shrink okay so don't put that much heat on there that was kind of promising i'll go ahead and lower heat this is kind of where i was expecting it to end up at the very least my wires are still protected from all the gooey that's inside of this and the whole area overall is still pretty protected not a sellable product but it got close to where i was going with this i need to learn more about those heat shrink boots that don't have stickiness in them that just kind of like more or less are socks that stick over this that looks way better than the other thing but i'm still not not impressed so you guys see exactly what i see i just spent probably the last five hours doing what you saw over and over and over again starting with the injectors pinning those out and then moving on to actually complex ones that really require the pins to be in certain spots all the way down to things that are going to connect everywhere else in the car literally it's called in-car this one's kind of arbitrary i just remember which ones are which this one is also something spare and i also doubled up on some of these because this massive size of heat shrink even though it shrinks four times it still is not going to get from this big down to this big so i have a piece that's going to kind of be a buffer zone and go from there that said i am super excited because every single one of the connectors i have i've modified to make them completely conceal the wires so we are going to do something really crazy and this we will time lapse i want you to watch it until the battery runs out it's new to me and i'm absolutely in love with this process makes the whole thing way more expensive unnecessary this is the epoxy gun we're going to put the epoxy tip on like that this is going to get messy it's going to get crazy it's going to be fun i'm going to go ahead and squeeze the epoxy and you can see both halves coming through there and mixing back and forth until the result that comes out is actually a almost perfect mix okay so what we're gonna do is start with the injectors look at our inspiration right there i don't know how i'm gonna hold these down without burning myself each time but we will try but what i'm gonna simply do here is put epoxy turn this down lower it'll be useful to have an actual temperature gun at some point this hooks in under there so that's why this is so important it flies around like that i'd like you to shrink without moving so much okay there we go finally coming together i know there's epoxy in there i think we'll get this process good it's actually unpredictable but working kind of well wow that was crazy this is a mess but at least i didn't trash any of them completely this one actually should be fun it's got an existing boot i've done these before but i've not used this this will be very interesting this boot is already a tough one it's all sealed you can't see it sealed on this side i'd like to now i'm ready for this style this should have the smaller one so i'm gonna add some glue to make sure this one seals to this one and it'll add some thickness so slip that over and here comes the scary part this is the dried by wire gotta get it gooped up i don't even know this is the right thing to do a little bit more than i was thinking it's definitely inward well we get what we get now it's doing what i was hoping it's holding under those corners there it's completely sealed in there it's held on this bottom here that's a massive but it's still better than nothing that's certainly going to hold when you pull on it and it's almost 100 sealed i can't exactly tell what's going on in there i am very happy with that sadly that's gonna be one of the easiest ones to see in the engine bay it'll be a testament to my learning weird but i'm happy with that you could actually do a proper boot but same concept here but this one's going to be easier and more fun this is what proper boots are made for but it's still working doing this more for aesthetic reasons so that's kind of hilarious but nonetheless still sealed i'm curious to see how this will dry this one's the same exact thing let's see if i can make this one any better i think it's pretty safe to see the boots become worth it when you start getting to this level that turned out way better this time got some more sensors actually really fun to do i have a feeling that there's like an ink version of this that comes out on these plastic pieces that's crazy some of these are hideous but extremely functional so now we're on to the biggest reason for all this these are all the sensors that hide in the back corner oil pressure fuel pressure oil temperature and so on so these are the ones i really wanted to do all this for because that's where i've had the most corrosion except these are going to be kind of janky well i cut one for this and then used a different one i don't think the sensor is going to fully seal but i do think this sensor is going to be preventing itself from getting pulled too hard that actually makes it easier to slide on that epoxy he's like a slider not half bad i'm very very pleased with this one this trip did not expect it to turn out even any bit good there's not a connector meant for that in the future i could all sand these down a little bit [Music] the majority of the harness is done this is insane that is a lot of work and i created a lot of work for myself [Music] i'm gonna take all of this hang this set up let's take a look if they really made each other all messy they did my weirdest ones turned out the best the parts really blown my mind and when i thought that the simplest ones are the worst thankfully the injectors are good next i'm just gonna do this side and let the normal adhesive get that side because that's stuck to it you guys made it to this far in the video and just like making these harnesses it's just as grueling if not more i want to talk about the breakdown of the cost really quick the fact is it costs more to make your own harness the first time we added it up and just to buy the minimums of things needed to do this harness you're talking about fifteen to eighteen hundred dollars out of that five hundred dollars was actually the kit for the dr25 you end up having plenty left probably make two harnesses with that so roughly 250 of that is enough for this the tesla wiring was 300 and i do have probably half of that maybe even more left i could probably calculate that you have to order 100 foot minimums and you have to order you know certain length minimums and then i added it up and all these connectors added up to a couple hundred bucks and then the boots themselves all these boots that you saw on the injectors those are seven dollars a pop plus the epoxy the cup potting compound plus these with boots plus labels but if you get labels i made them but you can see there's a lot of hidden costs that add up really quick while i wouldn't consider this a full-blown mil-spec harness it is the core of one it's tefl wiring it's sealed end to end and it's got the concentric twisting it's pretty nice just to give you a comparison it's 300 just to look at the beginning of the four rotors injector harness alone all together you end up spending basically 200 on just getting these connectors and all the pins and everything ready to make a wild harness sub harness not the whole harness i can tell you right now the next video is going to be on the drive by wire we already tested that i just want this video to focus on what it takes to make one of these harnesses at least as a personal hobbyist you're going to require a lot of tools so that cost is also not figured into the price of this harness but at the end of the day you can rip on your injectors and the harness isn't going to break very very very very happy with this really if you compare the raychem dr25 to the normal type of heat shrink it's a world of difference absolute world of difference and so i was afraid of buying it because that's gonna be the same this stuff is amazing very very soft and it keeps elasticity for a long time so those of you that are like me that want to compare this to say like a rye wire which i know rye wire met him a couple times nice guy and decent product you're talking about nine hundred dollars to a thousand dollars what does that get you well he does use the same type of tesla wiring and he does use the dr25 so you actually get quite a nice harness for that and you don't have to do the labor but where that starts to differ from this one there's not a single boot on there and those boots we're talking seven dollars a piece plus all of the epoxy plus all of these connectors being boot based connectors this is actually where it adds up a lot you're talking a couple hundred dollars in just that alone on top of that it's not a custom harness that he makes he makes standard harnesses as soon as you go to a custom one when i had him quote me for the four rotor it was three to four grand without mil-spec connector so basically almost this not even again not with the boots but three to four grand so you can see that labor of course is going to add up what would you charge somebody else to make this you saw how much time i spent you'll never be able to charge a thousand dollars for this so there are price ranges and i can tell you the differences between those and they certainly make sense if you really want something to be sturdy and oil proof this is the route to go what's different about this harness compared to what is on the three rotor already it's gonna kind of blow your mind again i made this harness what i thought was the best of my ability and i still came up short this harness has these pressure sensors and because i didn't have or understand what those connectors were i crimped the ones in from my older cars that's all exposed it's all crimped it's nice but it's all just sitting out like that it's gross same thing with my oil pressure sensor i can see exposed jackets and that's oil getting all in there all of these are all using just 3ms type of heat shrink and you can see it already it's just getting rough yet again exposed wire oils just getting into all that i'm pretty happy with a lot of this but it just starts to fall apart here's my crank angle sensor and i don't know how it's been running like this but it's passing straight through both the coils and the spark plugs that's why you want it shielded i would never do this so i don't know if it ended up like that i tried doing jacketed things did not work my ejectors this is what i hate watch this i'm going to go ahead and try and pull this you can't easily especially if it's under the there and you turn the manifolds in the way you have to sometimes pull on this to pull these off and this is pretty standard this is how it is but if you aren't grabbing onto here you are literally grabbing onto the crimped wires to pull that back that is my biggest pet peeve and we have that no more we really are just going to clean up all these extra wires that are coming through here because we aren't sure exactly what this car needed so this is actually going to get much simpler and much smaller we'll see a lot of this disappear i hope this video kind of encourages you to do this it saves you a lot of money on the back end at least making a second harness you're going to do even better this was one hell of a journey then our next video is going to be all the drive-by wire that is already working inside of this and getting that damn three-rotor polo wheelie

Channel: Rob Dahm

Views: 691,792

Keywords: Custom & Performance Vehicles, Mazda, Sports Cars, Vehicle Modification & Tuning, Vehicle Parts & Accessories, Engine & Transmission, High Performance & Aftermarket Auto Parts, Vehicle Wheels & Tires, Used Vehicles, Vehicle Specs Reviews & Comparisons, Transmission Repair & Maintenance, Batteries, Brakes, Interior, Vehicle Fuels & Lubricants, Collision & Auto Body Repair, Oil Changes, Auto Glass Repair & Replacement, California, Rob Dahm, RX7, Hybrid & Alternative Vehicles

Id: z1X0Mp_-WJk

Length: 106min 26sec (6386 seconds)

Published: Tue Sep 21 2021