Building the Billet 4 Rotor for 2000HP! or until it breaks…

[Music] this is the moment we have all been waiting for you know that i know that we all know that this is the engine that has made this channel what it is and this is the project that needs to come back together i have learned everything i've wanted to learn about this motor i can rebuild it i can make every change i've wanted to make as you saw earlier but it is finally time to reassemble it and go for 2 000 horsepower it all starts here obviously this is the billet part of the motor you can call it a shout out or whatever you want but thanks to vr1 watch how this half assembled engine works all the bearings have just been lubricated with vr1 and you can see them all spinning inside of there i was making sure that everything's still aligned you've got the two dowel pins locating everything why is this so special this is exactly how it works as it should all of the e-shaft pieces that connect it together are not in there each of these rotors are not timed and you can actually take them and hold on to it vr1 is so good that even four chunks of metal that are not actually held to each other are capable of still spinning on the bearings this is very very impressive everything is aligned if it wasn't this one or that one would have held on and caught on the bearing and you wouldn't be able to spin it so freely by hand so just testament to how straight the guys in new zealand aligned it and of course how well vr1 works in this engine with all this done we've got the rotors we've got the housings earlier today i went through and cleaned up all these housings these are the original housings that we used in the block before and we're going to reuse them so let's show you what we did to these well you've already seen the intro to the video this is the sort of preparation that has to happen first before anything fun happens and long before 2000 horsepower you have to make sure your used equipment is close enough to new in this case i'm showing you guys all of my secrets this is the aluminum torched inside of the four rotor so you can see two things going on here one is you can see the aluminum all embedded inside the chromium and you can see that the apex seal looked like it was starting to warp a little bit and allowing the center area to lift a little bit the aluminum is the main issue so what i wanted to do is come up with a solution to reuse these because they're not worn down they just have a surface layer that needs to be worn off and i don't feel like letting the engine run for 50 000 miles to do that so what we're going to do is we're going to try this little thing that i just made i welded and made all this thing work together so that way we've got this wheel of death it's 180 grit i know for sure this one which is also 180 grit works really well it's got little flapper discs but i want to see if this thing can do the whole housing at once so what you're going to see is hopefully all of this aluminum disappear a lot of the surface burnishing looking color disappear and then we're left with a very smooth housing you will still see these lines these striations in there but those aren't a big deal honestly because they're in the direction of the housing and they're not warped [Music] with that little bit i just want to take a look and show you guys the little bit of progress that happens very quickly so you can see most of the aluminum is already gone and the rest of that is just grease and oil there i need to figure out somehow avoiding that with the center area but that is much smoother already so i'm gonna go ahead and hit this for another about five ten minutes and i'll show you guys the results of that well that was about ten minutes on there and the finish is beautiful i can tell i didn't take much if any of the chrome down and that's something i wanted to mention to you guys is that this is chrome it is an extremely hard surface but if it does get in the air it is also something that you don't want your lungs just like most of the things that you're doing with engines but the fact is it looks this nice beautiful finish you can't get your fingernail to feel one bit of this so it is very nice ready for reseeding of the next apex seals some of you might be asking why did you not do it in the cnc you saw my instagram stories about a month back i have the program i made it i did all the calculations for this epitrochoid shape and so i can tell you exactly where the surface is in three dimensional space the thing is that chromium i don't want going into the machine and wearing out the machine so i'm a little hesitant when that's my bread and butter right now to start wearing it down with dust from this so with these out of the way let's show you some of the other tools that we're going to be using in this install this is the most professional i think install i've ever done it's most thorough it's been three days in the making a couple of things we made custom are like these little bolts here they're all thread they're m12 by 1.25 and what their purpose is is when we go to build this engine we have to build it in half and flip it last time i used toe straps and then when i flipped it i cut them off it obviously worked really well but this time we're going to be a little bit more professional and consistent with how we make the engine those threads will go into all these these are 16 millimeter stud bolts all the rest of these are a half inch or 12 millimeter i made a couple tools for this special occasion one of them is my personal favorite hot off the press this is my dowelable installer these dowel bolts go through the whole motor at the very end of the process and they thread into the front of the motor right there it needs to be screwed in from somewhere else and that's why i have this side with a flat piece of metal in here so once it connects and hits onto that flat piece of metal i can now ratchet this in or attach this to my slide hammer and now i can either slide them in if i need the slide hammer or pull them out when we're ready to disassemble the engine this little tool makes all that way simpler we are going to be using a tank tools 50 millimeter socket and we're also going to be using a tank tools 32 millimeter socket those two are necessary for the front and rear bolts of the engine this engine is not a traditional engine and so it has a slightly smaller rear main nut front is also very random as i said earlier we will be using vr1 as the assembly lube these are all three quarter inch sockets so i neck it down to half inch for my impact i've got a lot of new sandpaper 240 to 320 so i can do all of this which is what i'm going to be doing first but all new side seals side steel springs apex seal springs baby apic seal springs all new corner seal springs all new corner seals themselves for the entire motor my theory on this is that this engine is the most important one we're going to be doing the most amount of horsepower out of this one so i want to make sure that it's all brand new stuff and then all the other stuff goes and trickles down to all my other engines it was actually in pretty decent shape but i figured why not we're gonna be using our torch to extract all the oils and whatnot out of the tapers on the e shaft this is like the dream stuff right here galvin's professional brake cleaner this stuff is very serious we don't use it for anything other than this we're going to be using gray rtv for the legs for the oil legs partially because it takes about an hour for it to set we're going to assemble this engine very quickly so that way this stuff doesn't build up and then as we pack the engine together it doesn't accordion and do weird stuff something i am very excited to try is hilumar this isn't an official endorsement or anything for it i see a lot of people talking about it so we'll be trying hylomar we will still be using vaseline to pack the rotors and it's in the freezer right now cooling down and we'll see how this works for all of the coolant seals because that might help with how the coolant seals kind of sit and where speaking of coolant seals coming over here we've got all the old seals and all the old parts just in case we need something random oil control rings which i do have a spare set of the o-rings in there in case we need those the interesting thing is is that i will be replacing some of these oil control rings because the tungsten surface is so abrasive so much stronger than the cast iron in these that it wears them down so the oil control rings are being worn down and filling in the surface of tungsten with iron so i will replace one or two of these that actually took some serious damage no blow-by but just that's just the issue there this is probably my favorite deal i do order a lot from atkins i order a lot from mazda tricks as you can see here this is a more or less a two-rotor kit i really don't care about all the other stuff but i care about the black and the orange coolant seals but we also need all these o-rings for this area up here we're gonna be using slightly different dowels on this engine they're actually from my corvette c8 this one's a solid two-piece stow so there's two of them one in another and then the bottom one is one solid piece dowel so they are going to be slightly stronger than the oem ones the real strength comes from the dowel bolts on the engine itself so don't need to worry about that again all my bearings are basically brand new so no need to replace any of that we'll go through the journey of packing one router and then we'll kind of fast forward to the other three you know uh joel i'm feeling maybe some disco no no maybe some lo-fi beats to rebuild rotors too yeah let's start off with that so it's gonna be very hard for you guys to see but there is a distinct amount a much thinner section whereas if i start pushing it into wedges corner has been worn away and my thought on that i don't want that that's my that's my thought so i set all those aside and replace those with brand new ones what i then did with these went put every single one of them into the same slot and organized them by the longer ones to shorter ones it really helps for that and my goal is to try and use the shortest one that's the longest possible so i'll show you put this one in here and you can see it moves around that's not that's not even i'm going to try that so unfortunately this is not going to work for that one so i'm going to start i'm going to go somewhere in the middle putting it in like this and that is much more acceptable we'll see if it's under 4 thousandths and it is not so that's hot dog in a hallway we'll actually go to one of the tighter ones second to last and that one fits much tighter and it will not let four thousandths go by so we'll try 2500 for 2.5 thousandths and that's actually too tight so that's a good problem to have i don't know that one works four thousands doesn't 2.5 thousandths does so that's what i'm trying to aim for on these rotors something i was just telling joel off camera especially when you have really loose corner seals i'll see a lot of people clearance it and then walk away and the thing is you want to really clearance it once all of the triangle is in place because these can actually push them and it kind of wedges it all in together so you can actually end up screwing up your setup really easily you don't just go to one and move on it is nice having all brand new corner seals the notch that you'll get in the corner seals adds another variable you just do not want okay so this one's almost perfect for what i want okay so that is my dream up there let's hope that this side is really short actually it is kind of kind of shorter so we'll go ahead with four thousands and it does not accept four thousands but it does accept two and a half yeah so that's good so then we'll go ahead and check them all again no four thousands between a half two and a half four thousand just barely honestly just went in really we're right at four thousands it is on the tighter end of what i've ever done and i'm kind of proud of that i think i did one engine to seven thousands i do all my other ones to four to six i see people going tighter and tighter what i've got here is basically two and a half thousands consistently on the first router and so this one i'm just going to clean it up a little bit more so everything's all two and a half thousands roughly there you go we've got everything all clearanced and set up on this side except for the oil control rings what we're going to do is you've seen me preach about this on the channel over and over again this rotor is rotor two and on a four rotor rotor two is bearing from the front of the engine rotor two's bearing is here so the rotor two is moving this way which means that the the spiky thing has to point the same way as the way the engine is rotating so we need things that stick up like this this is sticking up like that and so is this one so all the little notches the circular notch goes down towards the rotor the flat notch goes up towards the ring just to show you that in action it's kind of sick oil control rings trying to spin with the the thing and look at boom it hits that notch this spring holds it in place so it doesn't spin with the rotors and ultimately wear out the the rubber or the viton or whatever the hell that is same thing this outer one goes until the party stops the oil control rings time to shine i was a little worried that these were getting eaten alive by the tungsten and they are and what you're looking for is look at the wear differences between those two you notice how thin and small this one is and how that one's got more exposed that is showing you exactly what my fear was is that that tungsten does not give a and it's actually eating through the oil control ring the tungsten is very very rough and so what i'm going to do is avoid using these two for the second i'm going to stick with medium or very shallowly used ones same thing with these outer ones it is really nice to have a small tool like this boom comes right out same thing with the bigger one you feel just it's a very gratifying experience to be honest so i have spares of these this engine's too new to really worry about that this one's the fun one to try to put back in because you have to like balance it and like hook it around and then get a b boop there you go notch side down this one's much easier push it in like that and then notch side down and then we'll go ahead and try to put even force and what you're really trying to do here is you're actually trying to get the o-ring to seat in and stick to the inside of the rotor it will fight you at first but once you get it in there it kind of it squeezes down there and then now the o-ring is actually holding it against the spring and they don't fall out as easy if they fall out easy i would definitely consider replacing that o-ring honestly at this point this really doesn't matter it's too hot but it does act like a really fine glue we are now going to flip so we're now sitting on the corner and side seals of that side rinse and repeat on this side these oil control rooms are going to be the opposite direction so you can actually count them and go oh man i'm missing one of each of these put those on there same process we're going to go ahead and put all of the corner seal springs on and then we'll glue them down with ky jelly tempered side down be loop this in there jump right side down wait for yeah there we go so this one you can see is a little tight it's fighting me a little bit that's perfect to me i'll let it wear in chamfered side down do a couple of these make sure not to put two into one slot and i'm sure a lot of you guys are already seeing a pattern to this on the channel or on this very video itself and that's the thing is that you have to follow the pattern sometimes it's hard to do honestly the brain's not meant to do that but be consistent let's never go there we'll start with the smallest one and just hope it works nope nope definitely no that is the longest one yet there's a hope much tighter oh that one feels right that one's meant for that spot that one actually feels pretty good too it's not like in the 4000s those two are perfect and then let's hope this one okay well on the very last one of this rotor no that's actually that's smaller than four thousandths okay well maybe those are the ones that went we're in this rotor before so all these are now done to three thousands and then we're gonna go ahead and put oil controlling springs on the rotor is now turning from this face the rotor is spinning that way so the points have to be up that way and they are put that one in there on there nice clean set up there if i was back in michigan this would be amazing and probably glue this thing together rotor 2 is officially done we're gonna go ahead and give you a nice little montage of the other two being done [Music] [Music] hey [Music] with all of the rotors packed that took probably six hours we're gonna go ahead and start building the block with all the guys from patreon watching all five of you because i decided to do this at three in the morning i apologize we are going to be using this beautiful set of fd wheels as well as new zealand wood but we're gonna be building the front half of this first so we're gonna go ahead and take the back half of this off this is the absolute center of the motor this is the special part of the motor that really is special to only this one i think that is the center bearing that is i think the secret to my sauce absolutely 100 billion percent make sure that these tapers when we go to install this are oil breath everything free i'm gonna go ahead and hit them with acetone now fun fact i actually built this motor once and then the guy that machines these shafts thought i was going to take a lot longer to do it and so then he messages me a week later a couple days later he's like hey by the way you better not even think about putting oil or you know fingerprints on that and sure enough i had just molested that with tons of oil and grease i was like i'm gonna make sure this thing's lubricated i had to tear apart the whole motor this is where yes yes what's up take all that off of there we'll have to remember to do that on the other side of the taper this is the magical e shaft ready for the first half of insertion here's where it gets hilarious i'm sure we'll make a professional way of doing this but i'm actually just going to set the back half that's where the clutch connects in on the back of those splines set that half of the motor into the great abyss what we need to do is get the bottom iron onto this uh i remember what i did the last time actually brought the whole thing up a little bit because i couldn't get underneath it so i put a chunk of wood under here so i could then set the iron here the way this engine works man you could do this backwards really easily the front of the engine is facing me right now so this is the front of the engine i'll have to get the two dowels in here which is this one down here this one's the half length dowel so we can actually put this wood in the way and then we're going to also have to have at least two bolts go into this two of these it's going to go like this when the engine's half together go up and screw in that'll work so this is one of the two dowels we're going to use it right here and then we're going to take the full length dowel whoa oh chill chill daddy this is my first time i wouldn't have even told you what color that is i did not know that high lamar was blue everybody's been talking about it so it's finally time to use it super curious to see if i'll like this or not it's all cleaned and prepped ready to go first thing is seals so we'll use just a little bit not that much i like this way more than my usual we'll take uh any housing we purposely did this that way every housing worked we'll use this for the legs take this notch on the stock ones towards the intake it's colder these don't feel like oem i'm not gonna lie i can see why people like it it's like sticky but not these are for the o-ring up here and what i'm gonna do just to balance out the adventure of this engine let me use gray silicone up on this pedestal area this way the engine sees kind of an equal dispersion of something that raises the height okay and it begins so now we're ready to take the other side of that taper this is the one that connects to rotor one one of the tricks to this is remembering the key for it as many of you already know this is a tungsten based surface that tungsten is wearing down the oil control rings and that is actually metal being deposited onto the tungsten because that tungsten is so much stronger and a little bit more coarse i think a little too abrasive it's actually kind of hard to build it with these longer dowels like the two main dowels those are easier to have when they're short just on the lobe there a little bit on the face of this that's not going anywhere that better not go anywhere for the record i'm not hiding what apex seals i'm using to say have a secret i've got all variety of apex seals in my different engines and these are not the ones that were in the engine before it's just simply my desire to try different ones and i'm not trying to endorse any because it's very much voodoo wishcraft even more so than what oil you use to say oh he uses these apex seals my goal is to have this engine actually be more on the race side and races a shorter life but stronger reliability with higher power [Music] there we go so we are about to see just how good this hylomar is joel said that off-camera that's exactly the case here well whoops still getting used to it so i'm gonna do like a couple dots like and it's the outer one i'm really worried about this goes towards the coolest yeah i don't know what this is a reusable one that certainly feels like it's not going anywhere yeah allen is holding there it looks like i'm squeezing tons out but i'm just doing those little bits dribble out yeah i better not have to play with the piano on a stock oh i see it because i put the highland bar on the outside ring that's it shortened the the length of the track i see what i did i have to push it all out probably more is too good yeah okay that is not the way to do it but that's holding it we're gonna clean off this taper again this is the most critical one and actually if the guys on patreon if you guys remember when i tore apart that engine that second time this rotor fell right off this lobe fell right off because i had oiled all of that man with this valving stuff i don't think i need the flame we'll make sure we definitely use the longer one yeah that e-shape's way too low rotor one's housing having these longer dowel bolts and having it all on wood and everything is not ideal i forgot how long it took and how careful i did was when i did this by myself last time it all was a blur and i remember why it's a blur the good stuff the low ball done up there's a little bit here and there there's tons of airflow if you forget the rotor this is like operation but times a billion stay thank you thank you no always the last one always the last one let's see yes as i just learned do not do a ring around the rosie that's actually the wrong way to do it the hylomar sits there and does not play nice with the seal actually i feel real confident with the hilamar versus anything yeah having it upside down and flipping it and all that when you don't put the hilamar on the alder rim it holds it so much better increase the wheel fortune the first half of the motor and there's the gear well okay i didn't give me much chance and that is the front half of the engine assembled this is for the coolest part for this last time i took two toe straps i wrapped the toe straps around this ratcheted it closed and then i flipped it they were stuck in here so i just cut them off but we're gonna be a little bit more crafty this time custom bolts so i'm threading them into the front iron right now i'm threading it all the way in until i hit the backstop with the front iron same thing on this side so isaiah just showed up at the perfect time this is what i get for live streaming we're going to tighten these two all thread bolts down not fully i want to crush it and then let it go when we flip it so we'll tighten it down just enough so we know nothing's going to pop out oh yeah you'd see some halomar coming out take the other side before i get too crazy with that isaiah doesn't know it but he showed up for the perfect time this is the flip i did that once i end up in the hospital my piercing caught on her piercing and it just was it wasn't good what we have to watch out for is there's one full-length owl and then the e shaft and so we're going to kind of pick it up it's not as heavy as the rxa motor right no it isn't because it's billet pick it up so the engine is kind of set halfway high lamar just does halamar it's like it's not silicone but it's not like a ceiling thing it's it's perfect not for use on coolant seals speaking of coolant seals while he's reading the instructions we're cracking open another clothing for boys [Music] hopefully that was good i trust the hylomar a little bit more than i should some of the hardest math for me is looking at the lobe and figuring out which way the rotor is supposed to be here the two 30 degrees see like i had it completely wrong action now [Music] i don't care if it crushes my hand i said that too soon [Music] this is the beginning of the last rotor it's hard to think that this is halfway done with a six rotor though damn yeah i just wanted to on myself when is a six rotor content coming sir uh yeah yeah if it wasn't for the discord that's i wouldn't want to know apparently i'm just gonna have to subscribe to patreon whenever this thing is not put together so that way i know when you're gonna put it together [Music] we are ready for the final load [Music] both sides of the taper are done we have the keyway in there and rotor 4 lobe i'm going to dedicate this shot of me using valvoline yet again for prepping this to the man whose name looks like a form of artificial sugar zola tells xylitol you always give it a and i know you're going to watch this because you've already posted it in facebook but i appreciate that and yet again we're going to use the good stuff to assemble the engine [Music] each of us have to push one down for good luck on three one two three yes no way no way i finished last night no all three went in i know for most people that's like okay cool that's what's supposed to do but that was sick here comes my favorite part of this motor i make this clear every time these are a new zealand thing i'm sure there's guys in australia and puerto rico before you guys yell at me this came from overseas and it is badass so huge credit to the guys that made these i know this is beautiful fabrication and all that this is the thing i made today it's a nut welded to a flat piece of chromoly and the two more nuts welded to that when you do this it hits the back stop and so it protects the threads while we go and do this funny enough this is the same thread as the thread on these oh really yeah my goal is to just get me get the next one in yeah this definitely protects all the threads there we are that is like the dream thumbnail right there you have a four rotor billet clearly capable of all the power that we've put down already but even more so now this motor is just about ready to rock isaiah scraped the rest of my rtv off because it took a little bit longer to do that than i thought and so we're going to put some more back on and then close this up but i think we might get a thumbnail real quick the funny part about sealing this thing so perfectly is that this is a dry sump motor so this is all under vacuum and the problem with that is i realized when i sealed it perfectly it caused the oil pump then belt to snap more because it was scavenging like crazy [Music] here's the very back of the motor [Music] i want to point out that not only the seven dowel studs the core of this motor but these are also 12 millimeter bolts and they're also doing their fair share of the haul you can actually see where they're machined to fit as well they're not press fit like the other ones but they still definitely carry a fair share of the load they're like 20 thousands off we won't want any further than that it is torque wrench time and this engine is so so so so gratifying to torque down because it moves so much i do this in kind of a three-step process just because of how much the engine is moving as it's pressing so i do actually do this in a star pattern not mazda's official one i just do it logically and then kind of releases all the tension inside of there or creates more tension whatever the case is it settles beautifully this is the how far that motor sink on the first torque down to just 10 foot pounds of torque that's how much the engine moved even though it might not be completely visible [Music] that was a lot of work i'm very very very happy with how this has turned out nothing wrong everything went smooth to plan we even used hylamar as you can see blue kind of seeping out of this a little different i am going to put on the rear bearing does anyone remember when the rear bearing came just like this and we never noticed it oh yeah the rear bearing when we first got the motor came with just two of these and then no seal on the inside we were wondering why the engine up on a standard is pouring oil out of the back this is our best 4am solution right now this is a horrible idea i'm actually putting my foot behind the leg let's spin it terrifying okay stop there voila as you can imagine look at this there is no end play right now that's weird rob why i'm glad you asked isaiah i don't know we'll just put a skin layer i think because there's no ring on this this could mess up the rear bearing but we did it last time truly just filling the cracks or divots in the metal surprisingly enough you do not crank down bearings on on this engine so we're gonna go ahead and do the same thing on the front side this is the very important part to doing all of this now of course you've seen in all the other videos all the in-play talk but in this case this needs to be hammered i don't even need these bearings at the moment but i need to put this on and get the whole thing crushed down otherwise we got no motor ted i'm only doing this because these are coming back out just the fear of that rear torrington bearing falling off scares me now this has a bearing in the front of it and that bearing in that front cover is wonderful but that seizes the whole thing up so you can't actually measure and play with that this is just simply to pull the whole e shaft together as you saw the e chef does not move right now we have no end play we'll keep track of how far this actually goes over where you get big bertha so this is to torque the front lobe to the second lobe to the main e shaft and we'll see how much this moves that was quite a bit yeah there we go finally that's how much that e shaft was out it was like i was like what the it pulled back in it was like pulling it back i was like so there is the beautiful generic sound i hit this with 300 foot pounds of torque when it was in the car that's it yeah that's it what we'll do is we'll put it on all of these teeth seems like such a bad idea but it is such a good idea because oil pours out of here give me more this remember this problem that we had yeah we took this out twice right yeah twice and it it ruined the first clutch here we are go i have stage fright that's all she got here is our very first test to spin over the engine and we have to do three full cycles to get each rotors three faces well the good news is what you're hearing is all 12 faces all have basically the same sound which is really good which means one of them isn't like all of them are just so you really can't tell a difference between all those so you can hear and see the end play because i didn't put any of the front bearings on and that's what those front bearings are meant to do keep this in the center of that that is a basically assembled four rotor we are going to do this motor on its side and with that we have to be very very careful this cannot move forward otherwise i'll show you what happens that's what uh isaiah almost what happened to his rx-8 i'm shooting this one out i'm gonna observe bolts back off of the front cover and put that plate on and things get scary from there kind of wild this is actually the plate that the whole thing's bouncing back and forth off of if the motor was favoring one side and you know which side that probably is it was probably pushing this way with the clutch and the drive train everything so that means that the inside bearing was was pushing it harder that's my theory anyway [Music] let's try it yeah you hear the beep of the camera and your mouth gets off of that thing huh yeah that's another stuff that's cool i think we should pull the security camera footage i don't know what you're talking about dude i don't i saw you twisting that wrist yeah i've been practicing i know what a man wants i've ever told you the story about how i hate these i know i don't i don't mention it often enough but i really do not like these i do not like allen head bolts some of these holes are holes some of them are not so here's where it gets kind of there it is guys that is it this is the all-wheel drive forwarder heart and it is back and we're going for the biggest numbers we've ever seen until until something crazy happens because we can rebuild it and we can make it even better so this is a massive step forward i know it's been a little bit longer a lot of people want but i know that i can remake all of these things 100 here in the shop this is a huge step forward for us give me a little bit but this is going back into the chassis and it's gonna be sick

Channel: Rob Dahm

Views: 478,299

Keywords: Custom & Performance Vehicles, Mazda, Sports Cars, Vehicle Modification & Tuning, Vehicle Parts & Accessories, Engine & Transmission, High Performance & Aftermarket Auto Parts, Vehicle Wheels & Tires, Used Vehicles, Vehicle Specs Reviews & Comparisons, Transmission Repair & Maintenance, Batteries, Brakes, Interior, Vehicle Fuels & Lubricants, Collision & Auto Body Repair, Oil Changes, Auto Glass Repair & Replacement, California, Rob Dahm, RX7, Hybrid & Alternative Vehicles

Id: _8N4b2dLaUM

Length: 38min 9sec (2289 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 14 2021