Relations between India and Pakistan are a
somewhat entangled affair — rather like at first glance the turban donned by Sikh
men. Amandeep Singh is curious to know what happens when an Indian Sikh
like himself travels to Pakistan. He's decided to embark on a pilgrimage and,
for the first time in his life, cross the border via the new
Kartarpur Corridor. I am a born Sikh. Visiting my guru's
place is like a Muslim visiting Mecca. For Amandeep the journey is also a
sentimental one: visiting the homeland of his ancestors and to the other half of his
culture — split in two by the partition of India and Pakistan in 1947. A former Indian consul-general to Pakistan
explains: Kartarpur is very, very — I can't stress it
more: very, very, very important to them. Don't forget: it is probably the Sikhs
who suffered the most at partition. And the Sikhs who lost
the most at partition. And the Sikhs
who retaliated the most at partition. How did the tiny minority of Sikhs become
such an important political issue for the two powerful nations? Will Kartarpur
change anything for the Sikhs? Could it be a testing ground for
peace between India and Pakistan, more than 70 years after their partition? As we travel through Indian
and Pakistani Punjab, we come across new hopes and fears. The new border crossing is located just
a few hours' drive south of Kashmir — the region India and Pakistan have fought
two wars over since their foundation — and where they remain on a hostile
footing with each other. But here on the ground in the Punjab, at
the entrance to the Kartarpur Corridor, the mood is currently a
peaceful, even relaxed one. The Indian subcontinent is home to over one
and a half billion people. 20 million of them are Sikhs. Most of them, like
Amandeep, live in the Punjab — a region that was torn apart by the
partition of India and Pakistan. For more than 70 years there
was only one border crossing. But now there's a new one: Kartarpur! Amandeep makes his final preparations for a journey that he expects
will change his world. Katarpur Corridor is definitely bringing
peace for South Asia and the world. Amandeep Singh has seen a lot of the world.
He spent a number of years in Birmingham, England and has also
traveled extensively across India and to Dubai. But this is his first trip as a
politically conscious pilgrim. For this purpose the dentist
has transformed his small car into a kind of ambassador's vehicle. He's joined on this expedition
to their unfamiliar, larger neighbor by his wife, Keerat. Amandeep conducts one last
online check before setting off. A video on the Kartarpur
Sahib Corridor. The Katarpur Corridor. Four kilometers of
freshly paved road — for Indian Sikhs a new highway to a holy site. It leads to
Kartarpur Sahib in Pakistan, the world's largest Sikh temple. It's where the founder
of their religion, Guru Nanak, spent the last years of his life in the 16th century,
and is now buried. It's a place that every Sikh wants
to visit once in their life. The first group of pilgrims set out for
Kartarpur, also known as Darbar
Sahib, in November 2019. The date on which the corridor was
inaugurated was no coincidence — November 9th, the anniversary
of the fall of the Berlin Wall. It was opened on the Indian side
by Prime Minister Narendra Modi. And — almost at the same time, but not
in the same place — by his Pakistani counterpart Imran Kahn. It had been almost 20 years since plans for
such a corridor were first proposed by then Indian premier
Atal Bihari Vajpayee. And it's in that spirit
of peace that Amandeep and Keerat are now
making their trip. They were both born in Punjab, not far
from where they now live in Ludhiana. They're making the trip on behalf of their
respective families, and are among the first to have been
granted permission to go to Kartarpur. I'm excited. I am just living the moment. I saw many videos, many pictures,
many people going across. To me visiting that place
will be a divine feeling. Basically I am a Hindu girl. I
am born into Hindu religion. I am married into a Sikh family and
now visiting a Muslim country. Their journey takes them through
the Indian part of the Punjab: the breadbasket of India
and the only Indian state where Sikhs comprise the
majority population. The rural, even romantic region is home
to 18 of the 20 million Indian Sikhs. As well as Amandeep and Keerat, pilgrims
from within Pakistan are also underway. On Sikh holidays, believers are required
to visit a temple or "gurdwara" — ideally one of the especially
holy places like Nankana Sahib, birthplace of the religion's
founder, Guru Nanak. Nankana Sahib is a good three-hour
drive away from Kartarpur. This is where Pupinder
Singh lives and works: I belong to the first Sikh family
who migrated here after 1947. My grandfather and his two brothers
were the first ones to come, although Sikh families had moved from
here to India during the partition. At that time it was difficult for a
Pakistani Sikh with a turban to live here. Today Pakistan has an estimated Sikh
population of just twenty thousand in a country of 220 million Muslims 28 years old Pupinder has
strong thoughts about the countries' partition
over 70 years ago. I could see our Indian Singh brothers on
the other side. They would look at the
gurdwara through binoculars. That was their way of paying
respect and homage to the shrine. For just a single
glimpse of the temple, these people travelled thousands
of kilometers across India. We accompany Singh through the
Pakistani Punjab to Nankana Sahib, where a sense of tradition meets a more
future-oriented outlook — as typified by Singh. The tools of his trade are a
laptop and camera. He's a YouTube videographer with a very
specific target audience. The team behind the Punjabi Lehar YouTube
channel is trying to increase the love between Pakistan and India
because they have so much in common. We do not understand the reasons for
the hate between the two nations. The temple of Nankana Sahib is Singh's
favorite filming location. His videos provide an insight into the
Sikh religious service. On feast days a ceremonial
reader or "Granthi" carries the holy book into
the temple — on his head. An expression of respect, together
with the ceremonial fan. Sikh means someone who learns.
In Sikhism there is one god, he is almighty and the creator
and lord over everything. He is infinite and the
Supreme god, he is the God of truth and he takes care
of all living things. Women have equal rights
in the Sikh religion, and there is no caste
system as in Hinduism. The belief in one god and one book of faith
is a concept also familiar to Muslims, while Hindus recognize the
notion of gurus sat beneath sacred trees. Guru Nanak adopted a range of ideas
from the great religions he was surrounded by, but also added his own,
notably the three basic principles: praying and thinking of God, earning
a living by honest means, and sharing the fruits of
one's labor with others. That is why Sikh temples all offer free
food and drink to visitors, regardless of their religious affiliation. Those who work hard and are eager
to share tend to make friends. This is perhaps another reason
for the growing social presence of Sikhs in Pakistan. Over the last 20 years we Sikhs gradually
started to become more prominent in society as you can see in my own family.
Some of us are in the army, some are professors, doctors, engineers, and
one of our boys is in the rangers. This created a sense of pride amongst us, and now you can see Sikhs
represented in every field here, even though we are among the
smallest minorities in the country. The temple next door
has been draped in a a special show of lights to
celebrate Guru Nanak's birthday. Here we meet one of Pupinder's relatives
who has also enjoyed professional success: Mahender Pall Singh, a proud member of the
Provincial Assembly of Punjab. I am the sole Sikh parliamentarian in
Pakistan. There is nothing better than being born in the same place where
Sikhism was born and our religion began. I'm so proud
of that. For Mahender, the Kartarpur
Corridor is the fruit of joint efforts at a political
and religious level. Kartarpur Corridor is
not a recent idea. It’s the result of many decades
of prayers by us Sikhs. In the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
religious tolerance is far from a given. Mahender looks to the good example
set by his fellow believers. Now Sikhs from all over the world are
kind of ambassadors for Pakistan. And when they see the love and respect
they receive from us, they will than know that we are a loving
and peaceful nation. Like all Sikh temples, this one is funded
primarily via donations. The money comes increasingly from
the US, Canada and Britain — where the majority of Sikhs outside
the Indian subcontinent live But it's the stance of Indian Sikhs
that is decisive for the region. When our Indian visitors go back they
will take away the message: “enough!” Violence or fighting resolves nothing. We
have to sit together and talk. And for that reason, the Kartarpur Corridor will
become the Kartarpur peace corridor. In New Delhi, veteran foreign
policy expert Mani Shankar Aiyar attributes this primarily
to the Sikhs in Pakistan. This is a symbol of the importance that
Pakistan attaches to reconcile at least the
Sikh community with them. Don’t forget: it is probably the Sikhs
who suffered the most at partition. And the Sikhs who lost
the most at partition. and the Sikhs who retaliated
the most at partition. The history of the Sikhs is one of glory
and misery, triumphs and defeats, of suffering and inflicting pain — and
nowhere is this legacy more visible or tangible than in Amritsar, the cradle
of Sikh culture in Indian Punjab. Amandeep and his wife stopped off to
visit his brother who lives nearby and now have their niece with them to visit the first and only "Partition
Museum" on the Indian subcontinent. The museum was opened in 2017
in the town hall of Amritsar to mark the 70th anniversary of partition. Most of the collection comprises
photos and memorabilia of people directly
affected by the partition. Ruins and life-size replicas
bear witness to the victims, and give visitors a very physical and
emotional impression of the suffering. 40 percent of the population was uprooted
on both sides. People lost their lives, their earnings. It's been 70 years but
wounds are not healed. In June 1947, the British had agreed
to separate Muslim Pakistan from the predominantly Hindu India and grant
the two nation’s independence — barely three months later. The British wanted to rule here. So
it was their policy to divide us. This is one of the blackest
chapters in colonial rule. Till now we meet people
who survived that day, and expect an apology
from the British parliament. Up until the very last minute, the British left open exactly
where the border would run. The Radcliff Line, named after
the British chairman of the boundary committee, was drawn in an arbitrary
manner — with dramatic consequences. The independence in those days was like
a disease in Punjab, like a plague. Immediately we started losing people.
That is the sad part. Whenever independence day comes — at least
being a Punjuabi — I can not relate myself with the celebration, because I cannot relate with this
part, I cannot ignore the suffering. The enforced population transfers in the
provinces of Punjab and Bengal were unprecedented, with up to 20 million
displaced persons, and one million dead. There are no exact figures — only bitter memories of the
past, and fears for the future. Visiting this museum brings fear in my
heart. I am comparing that 1947 moment with today. Same thing is happening
today as well. We should try to do something so that nothing
terrible might happen again. What Amandeep is referring to is the other
element of Indo-Pakistani division: Kashimr. The region has a predominantly Muslim
population, with a large Hindu minority, and both countries continue to press
claims to the entire territory. A visit to the museum provides
an alternative perspective of the present. Whatever party comes into power they
really want a narrative, a history from their point of view.
I read the history. But coming to a museum in this age
I am watching many new things. And that is terrible. The young generation should be told about
the mistakes at the earliest age. In the Partition museum the thorny tree
representing relations between India and Pakistan has leaves
bearing friendly wishes. But Keerat has also experienced a
less promising state of affairs. History is being changed. I am a teacher
and each year courses and the syllabus are being changed — especially history
books — by replacing chapters in them. Just a 10 minute walk away from the
sobering Partition Museum is a truly resplendent sight, and one intimately
connected to the history of the Sikhs: the Golden Temple of Amritsar — their
holiest site on Indian soil. It dates from the 16th and 17th centuries. In modern times it
was the site of a traumatic event has been etched
into the memory of Sikhs. In 1984 there was a massacre, a
genocide, a killing of an entire generation of Sikhs in Delhi. After that,
even to this day, we were advised not to talk about it, to move
forward, to move on. In 1984, Sikhs wanted to create their own
state of "Khalistan", independent of India, with Amritsar as its capital. Fearing further independence movements, the then Indian Prime Minister
Indira Gandhi ordered the army to storm the temple, to dislodge Sikh
extremists who had been using it as a refuge. Around 500 Sikhs
died in the ensuing gunfire. A few weeks later, Indira Gandhi was
murdered by two of Sikh bodyguards. Anti-Sikh pogroms broke out and hundreds
of innocent civilians were killed. Those responsible were eventually
sentenced, over 30 years after the crime. We used to look at the ruins left by the
massacre and think: did this actually happen in an independent and free India?
Were we not part of India? Why did it have to come to that? And
later on we gradually tried to dig for more information. But we
did not find any answers. For Sikhs, the Golden Temple in
Amritsar will always be associated with mixed feelings and bitter memories
of the storming by the Indian army. It was certainly the most dark stain
on independent India, on the Congress Party and
on the Gandhi government. Despite apologies that have
been tendered subsequently, it will be difficult for any historian
to say the stain has been wiped out. After taking some valuable history
lessons on board for the journey to a potentially
brighter future, Amandeep now heads for Kartarpur
and finds time to reflect. It never comes easy. It does not
matter how much effort you put, how much time you can demand. But in this
political scenario between these two nations Imran Khan took a very bold step. Thanks to him this is happening. We believe it is going to be a
wonderful step between both the nations and
for the region. This part of the Indian Punjab has
benefited from recent developments: the equivalent of several million euros
were invested in building the few kilometers of new road across the sandy
plains in the approach to Kartarpur. The road was years in the planning, but
even after the opening it still resembles a building site — as does the
futuristic-looking visitor center. Barely visible in the haze is
the much awaited destination: Kartarpur Sahib — now just two
passport checkpoints away. Amandeep and Keerat have almost
reached their final goal. Visitor numbers are limited
to five thousand a day. Now, a few weeks after the opening,
the initial rush has subsided. Filming is not officially permitted beyond
the gates, but the Indian authorities have provided an online computer
animation of its passenger terminal. There are passport checks like at an
airport, but no visa requirements. It's hard to describe how I feel, I am
on the Pakistani side of the Punjab, and I have just gone through
immigration from the Indian side. Then I'll do the same on the Pakistani
side. You can see the bus behind me. I'm about to get on it and then
we'll go to Kartarpur Sahib. I have a lot of mixed
emotions right now. Entire generations have prayed to make
it very easy for us to be here today. All we had to do was fill out a form at the
border, and officials from both countries welcomed us. And now I would
like to thank all of those who made this
possible for us. This is our first glimpse
of Kartarpur Sahib. A marvelous structure, totally
in sync with the Sikh gurdwara! Finally, the pilgrims’
dream becomes reality. Unfortunately, film cameras are
not allowed inside the complex. But Keerat's photos and Amandeep's
personal account do give us an impression of how well preserved the
historical interior is, and of the many other visitors they met — people
of all ages and social classes. The visitors are not only Sikhs. They also
include people from all religions and regions of the subcontinent,
curious to see the site. I appreciate how people have showered
us with love. We spent the first quarter of an hour just hugging
and meeting everyone else. Everyone here is really passionate and
full of life. Complete strangers come up to say hello, and tell us about their
own village and ask me about ours. Encounters with an impact lasting
longer than the one-day visit: We all have to be stakeholders
in this, we have to put more effort into this initiative.
This project needs to prevail, and we need more
initiatives being taken. Kartarpur Sahib is open to visitors
for just eight hours a day. Indian citizens are not allowed to
visit other temples on Pakistani soil. So the Singhs are now at the
end of their pilgrimage. Back to India, where Amandeep's family
are waiting in their village for a full report
on his journey. One thing I observed: that no one
there was trying to take the credit or saying they were
behind the initiative. All of them said the same thing: “this is
Guru Nanak’s land, this is your place, it is your right to come here." The
word “right” was on everyone’s lips. I found no one who
said otherwise. I'm looking forward to telling
everyone about my experience and encouraging them to go too. I
know there are some people who are wary when they
hear the name Pakistan, but I will motivate them to
definitely go and experience this. Up until now the Kartarpur Corridor
is only open to Indians traveling to Pakistan — but
not vice versa. Amandeep would like to see
Pakistani Sikhs benefiting too: We need to reciprocate, which we can
do on that very site, in Kartarpur. There are already immigration counters
on each side, so extending the opening in both directions
is possible! There are also a lot of places in
India that are important for Sikhs. Friendship has to be from both sides.
If India now responds positively to our initiative, we will give
them an even better response. Mani Shankar Ayar from
the opposition Congress Party in India does not
share his optimism, especially when it comes to a
commitment from Prime Minister Modi: I think he is against
this kind of thing. It does not suit his party and it does
not suit his internal electoral support. Should things between the two
countries evolve towards peace, then he is a worthy candidate for
the Nobel Peace Prize as well. What is true that
Imran Khan — like lots of Pakistani leaders
and most Indian leaders — has an eye on the Nobel Peace Prize,
which would be the automatic prize that would be given for reconciliation
between the two countries. As a Sikh, Amandeep is
definitely eager to promote reconciliation between
the two nations. It is only through dialogue that is
uninterrupted and uninterruptable that we will be able to arrive
at a resolution of these issues, including Kashmir. What is clear is that the Kartarpur
corridor has raised hopes for a more harmonious future in both
parts of the Punjab and beyond. This was a lifetime
opportunity for me. And I am really happy I
made the decision to go.
thanks :)