The Renton Circle Supercut || Dr Decks

[Music] hey guys dr dex here welcome to our new job site uh we're in a city called renton washington and we're doing a cool little project it's a freestanding deck we're using precast pure blocks because there's a septic system a lot of complicated and complex wiring and tanks and all that stuff and we don't want to dig too deep and hit anything lots of drainage uh this lawn had some negative drainage in it so kind of getting some challenges through some challenges today if you like what you see don't forget to click that subscribe button and hit that bell icon to be notified when we're putting out fresh content and as always leave your comments below and we'll try to get back to you as soon as we can alright so as you can see we have some of our precast footings installed and these are a bigger uh footprint than what you'd normally see in a precast footing so if you look right here these are an 18 inch round which means it gives you a better load capacity for pressure down so that's what we're looking for i don't like using 12-inch square pier blocks too much i have used them in the past these uh hold a lot better where i live our frost depth is only six to 12 inches deep so we don't really have to worry about digging super deep like you guys do in canada or some of the people in the eastern northern northeastern states and that kind of thing i get messages all the time hey doctor you're so lucky we have to dig four feet deep minimum for every single footing i get you if you don't like it over there you don't like those footing steps then you know move somewhere that you don't have to dig so deep uh unfortunately for us that means it rains a lot instead but you know we all have our pluses under minuses right so basically i'm going to show you the design framing design of what we're building so you can kind of see where these beams are over here we have some really unique uh angles and curves so that's my joist layout my beam detail so it kind of tells us how that has to be framed and then this is what the deck is gonna look like when it's laid joists are running this way decking's running this way and then we have a 20-foot circle that we're going to heat bend and put in here for interest and then we're going to put lighting in light lighting all through here and over here and in the stairs there's like 28 lights total going into this deck so should be a lot of fun obviously the deck is so low to the ground we have to really think about how we're going to wire this up before we do it so that's going to be a super challenge trying to get everything prepped and ready as we build this thing because we can't get underneath the deck once the decking's laid it's that low to the ground that was one of our biggest challenges so far we had to dig out a lot of dirt yesterday it took a lot we had the mini skid steer here took a lot of time just to get the grade elevated it doesn't look like we took out a lot of dirt but wait till you see the pile that we ended up with it took up a whole 16 by 12 foot tarp now that that's in we are going to set some elevations we're going to get some boards mounted to the concrete start getting our beam set to height and what's cool about these footing blocks is they're adjustable so once we kind of have everything roughed in then we can crank them up to exactly the height we want and it will help elevate the deck and then it stays right there so that's what we're doing on this particular job like i said i don't use footing blocks a lot but let me show you why we use footing blocks on this job so one of my major concerns was we have all of this electrical this is a high-end septic system so uh normally we don't see stuff this complicated on a job site and it just concerned me a little bit that if i started digging down we may hit some wires there's also a lot of ground drainage in here lots of uh perforated pipe we ran into those quite a bit we didn't destroy anything but we did run into it because there's some negative slope in this yard so the slope kind of comes back towards the house so we had to cut into the dirt and make it so that we could clear our beam clearances and try not to destroy all of the drainage pipe that's in the ground then right here you see all these are faux stones and there's septic tank lids underneath some of these faux stones and so we're not building over any of this we're building around it but it was just scary to me to try and dig deep in this area at all so i just decided we're going to use these pier blocks instead i explained to the client my concerns he agreed with me and these will hold plenty of weight we're using 4 per 20 foot and because of the thickness of this deck we had to use a four by six beam and two by six joists it's basically we're shoe horning this thing into place i'll show you right now these beams are at elevation and you can see how much space how much clearance we have from the joists to the grass is like minimal so that's why we had to take up so much dirt out of this space we're still 10 feet well we have a newfound appreciation for uh dudes who do concrete because it is tough to level on top of dirt so what decoys and i are doing right now is these bricks or these footings need to go down we need to be at 23 inches from the base of the concrete up to our level line there so for the last 20 minutes we've been scooping in dirt scooping out dirt trying to make it flat leveling these guys out so that way we can um continue our beams over here and hopefully have this guy framed out as well so we shall see how it goes a lot of digging you know how it is more drainage i want you all the way to the wall [Music] we gotta put a four by six in here because we gotta be able to cantilever our joists past it so i can cut the curve so kind of see how my tape is i mean i could sit here and i could paint this out and then i would need you to cut it all out and and then go dump it over on the pile of dirt but we have to be able to trench a beam in between here and here [Music] come my way and you guys are right on the money [Music] [Music] 100 90 degree angle i don't think you're gonna be able to use the um ml24z all right so we have most of our beams placed and now i'm starting to do the layout on our top of our beam so where all of our joists will go that usually takes a minute to get to i'm working diligently on that it takes you know a good half an hour 45 minutes to lay out a complete joist layout on a deck so once i have that finished uh we have one other beam to set in over here i'll probably have the guys start on that i'll figure out there's a reverse curve that kind of comes around this section of the deck over here and um and then we'll kind of figure that out from there so that's where we're at right now i think that we'll probably get the layout done get all the beams will be set and then we'll probably get some joists run today but i'm not sure how many i'm using these ls 70z by simpson strong tie putting four of them into this beam connecting this beam because it's always good to have a strong connection and they're having s in the name because they're skewable you can do you can take one of these guys and actually bend them to fit the angle you want which we use a lot because we do a lot of curved decks and they work out pretty well it's hard to talk when it's all quiet whoever did this concrete slab uh made it one inch out of square from the house which i find kind of hard to believe but i bet you if i take some measurements and measure this out right now it'd be an inch out we just pulled measurements off the foundation of the house and transferred them out 50 inches from the house and i just transferred my lines and now i'm an inch out and 14 feet so which since the decking's running this way isn't that big a deal i don't think anybody's ever gonna pick up on it um but now i just have to figure out how i'm gonna tie it all into my layout because i've already got one beam laid out perfectly and um now i've got a mess to deal with [Music] hey guys dr dex here today we're at deckboard bending we have our jig set up we have our hecon heating blankets all ready to go we are warming up boards and creating all the curved decking that we need for our current deck build which you've been following along all right guys come on this board's ready to go let's get this done [Music] [Music] freehand [Music] all right so we uh have all of our uh deck boards bent that we need bent and now we're making some fascia pieces they're not fascia they're actually part of the framing we're actually pre-bending some of the curved boards that we need for our framing so we're doing that next and then i think we have two more boards to bend after this one and then we'll have all of our bending complete and then we're going to finish out our day cleaning up going to the dump prepping loading boards strapping them all in and balancing things on our head for several minutes let's do the gray side out flip it over [Music] okay great okay like this take it your way [Music] okay so we have all of our boards bent now all of the framing we did not do our fascia boards because i feel like we have to do those on site and in place so we did get our framing materials bent as well and so those are like the outside rim pieces that we need to kind of create the shapes of this deck so you'll see how those go in on monday we have a lot of special cuts to make and then we'll be able to screw these on and kind of get a nice shape to form the deck with hey guys dr dex here today um today we are blocking we're finishing up our curves and adding some really nice swoops into this deck uh so follow along and see how we do so today mostly we're just trying to button up for getting ready to install deck boards we got the outside rim joists we're finishing up and we're g-taping and just miscellaneous stuff going on today so follow along see how we do and we'll see if we might be laying some decking here later this week little handy tool to have on site is a little heat gun we used a metavo hpt uh heat gun so with the dampness of the joist the uh g-tape doesn't like to stick so we put it to about say a thousand eleven hundred degrees and then just take as you can see this is a little little lighter and have you had the damp side right here let me take it in just brush it across here don't get too close right now that but as you see right here we have a very nice bond with the joist and it's waterproof i don't like this thing it makes a high frequency or it resonates a high frequency so i have to do this every video every clip [Applause] [Music] i'm uh putting some flat block in on this curve here uh because our curved board is gonna sit over here and without flat blocking we could screw into this joist in this joist but we can't screw in here and we don't want to have to guess where we can screw into so i'm going to take some two by tens trace all this out have it tight with the board tight with our joists and that way we can just lay this guy on top and uh about a thing about a boom you don't have to think about where you're screwing into all right so i have this end of the deck all figured out as far as the curve the swerve how we have actually we have the outside um rim joist on as well which is pvc and now nas is putting in all the solid blocking which is going to go in every single joist bay to create support for the alternate surface border that's going in alternate color so the field of this deck is at coastline the borders are azac dark hickory alright so we've got all that completed it's looking pretty good and now i'm going to go to the other side of the deck square it up get all the ends figured out where they need to be cut and then try to figure out the other curve i have to do on that side of the deck so that's what's next all right so now i'm on the other side of the deck and this side of the deck is actually square so i'm going to square up to the house figure out where this end because my first deck board is going to be installed from right here and then we're going to lay the deck this way and then we're going to flip it and lay it this other way so i'm going to start my board so i have a full width board my dark hickory border and then the coastline will go in after that but i also have to figure out how this five foot radius is going to go so that's kind of the next step in our evolution is get this line this line justified and then figure out the curve so that's what's next [Music] oh why can't i just do normal decks like normal people do it's always got to be something crazy you know i always think it's i always think it's so cool on the design until i start building it and then it's like man what are you thinking dude it's crazy you know i always always have these moments in these builds where i think that everything's fine and then all of a sudden i hit these roadblocks you know and and it's just kind of a mind-numbing thought session of what i need to do now to fix or fit or figure out what what's next it can be a little overwhelming you know when you think you got it and then you're like oh surprise something else you got to deal with and i always second guess myself sometimes when i'm doing this because it can be a challenge kind of like right now [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] wow [Music] hey guys dr dex here we are pretty much done framing up this deck we're ready for decking except for one thing and that's lighting we have some in light lighting that we're installing we have to kind of pre-install it because this deck is so low to the ground we wouldn't be able to get underneath it once it's built so we're pre-wiring and pre-setting up for some wires to start putting in some low voltage led into our inlays basically what we've done is we've put a spool of wire out in kind of a pathway of where we need to put all our lights i've painstakingly laid out where all the lights need to be installed and then because that takes a minute um i'm not going to really get into the layout part of that today but maybe on another project and then what we're doing is we're pre-hooking up we've got this line energized with a low voltage transformer and inlight has these really cool weather resistant ways to hook up to the wire and low voltage led is cool because you don't really get voltage drop when you're running it so what we're doing is we're installing these clips onto the line and then we're pre-checking and making sure that this line is energized which it is okay so that's good we have 12 of these to check around this perimeter and then everything else can be done from the outside of the deck but these 12 have to be installed as we're building the deck or as we're installing the decking so we got two done we got another 10 to go but then what we're gonna do is we're gonna tuck these kind of into the holes that they go into but only so far if if these drop and we have the deck laid there's no way for me to get to this wire and we'll be in trouble so uh for now that's how far we're gonna go we're gonna get all these going and then we can actually start installing some deck boards so follow along and see how we do with that and these are the inlite dr decks limited edition led lights they have a black bezel and they have the inlight logo on top and they have my logo on the bottom which is kind of cool so check that out and you can check them out at inlight.com and they're also on social media on instagram and here on youtube as well all right so here we have the uh part that attaches to one side of the wire you can see it kind of has a groove and a threaded end and there's an adapter clip so it'll fit onto 12 gauge wire we're using 12 gauge low voltage wire but you can go all the way up to uh 10 gauge and then there's a screw cap right here okay and there's dielectric grease on the inside of this fitting that when you when it compresses i don't know if you can see this when this compresses it squeezes grease into the connection for a long last oh yeah yeah so which is really cool i don't know of many other fittings that do that but what dielectric grease does is it keeps your wire from corroding so even if it gets wet it's going to keep it from corroding so when you compress this these barbs onto the wire the dielectric grease spits into there and then you have a really nice tight connection so i'm going to do one for you from zero just so you can kind of see how easy and quick in light is so here's the wire sticking out all right i'm gonna put my my adapter right on top of the wire and you can see there's grooves on the inside of there okay and then there's a groove on both sides of this adapter so those really fit right in where they're supposed to right inside the clip and then this is just a threaded cap and you just screw this on and sometimes you'll hear it click there it goes now the dialectic grease is released now everything's nice and tight we should have a positive connection let's uh hook it up real quick and see yep there we go we're energized now that we're there i'm just going to stuff this through the hole and we had to drill some decent sized holes they're probably an inch and three quarters i'm just glad we had a nice forstner bit for that so i'm leaving this exposed uh as we lay our deck boards i will cut a hole for this to stick out and then once we cut away the center portion because we're doing a circle inlay in the middle of this deck so that'll be kind of a cool feature and then inside the dark hickory border that's part of the circle inlay then we'll actually finalize where exactly we want to put these lights but what i did was i oversized this hole this is about a one inch light but i made an inch and three quarter hole because this light is going to stick down further than our decking where this gray area is is gonna hang down below our deck board so because i didn't know exactly where that's gonna go i wanted to have about three quarters of an inch of play so that i know when i install this this will have some room wiggle room so it'll work out a little pre-planning [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] so before we started laying deck boards we took some silver sharpies and we did a layout around the entire circle so i could figure out where to put my screws because we have a lot of hidden fasteners we're using in this deck but we're also using fafsa master cortex stainless steel screws and then we're going to cork a bunch of areas as well so i kind of have this pattern of screws now that i can see and that's how i'm going to lay out and figure out where to cut all of my boards in you can kind of see the pattern right here in the deck and i just need to be in the center of that with my alternate colored curved surface border so that's how i'm figuring out where to put my cuts and how to make the cuts hey guys dr dex here today it's all about surface borders and steps all right so the guys are over on the side of the deck they're framing up a couple of uh stairs they're wider stairs so they're more like platforms than a staircase but we're getting those framed in and they're digging a little dirt and putting in a little bit of concrete to support the staircase so basically what we're doing is we have two posts in the ground at the end of the deck we are hanging our staircase off of that then we're putting in two posts in concrete to hang for the next landing and then well so we'll hang that's first step to those and then below that we'll attach the bottom stair and then we'll come out and we'll dig two more holes for the bottom steps so it's a little bit more uh digging and pouring than you would normally do on a staircase but because the stairs are so raked out you have to do it that way to make sure that they're supported properly and while the guys are doing that i'm over here sanding and fitting and getting ready to install some of our curved surface borders that we heat bent last week and start installing some of the inlight lighting that's going to be going into the pattern of the deck so that's what i'm up to follow along and see how we do [Music] so [Music] every cut we put end grain solution on every single cut it protects the wood from bugs and preserves the wood for a longer life why did you need to cut that oh because there is a drainage pipe in the way uh it's up against the foundation of the house it's for all the gutter drainage system and so it's in our way uh i can't cut the pipe i can't move the pipe so i have to modify our frame instead so that's what i did now i can get back to what i'm trying to do over here we're just g-taping our 4x6 posts that we're going to land in our concrete because even though we um put q-tech on the end of each cup adding g-tape is just extra protection so this side is gonna kind of shade and it'll be impervious to water and uh rot and all that so hopefully for a longer lasting day [Music] uh [Music] is this hard to do yes it's very time-consuming nerve-wracking and mind-numbing but when it's all done it's very rewarding by doing this i'm gonna put one four by six here one four by six there and what you didn't see yesterday because our studio man wasn't here yesterday is i put two four by sixes under there and they're in concrete as well so this uh box frame step is tied into that so then our next box frame step will be tied into these four by sixes and it's gonna fit right underneath this two by eight so that way everything's super solid and uh yeah we do everything solid here solid there so i have four lights that i've already pre-determined are like gonna let's just call them north south east and west and so once i figure out those four points then i measure across from like north to west and i take that and i average since i have three spaces what i'm trying to do is equalize each quadrant so then i took three tape measures and i set one up on the middle of the light here and then i took one and i set it up in the middle of the light here and then i figured out my average of measurement it's around 59 and a half inches in between lights 59 to 59 and a half is what i'm shooting for and that's what i got and that's how i figured out the average on a circle was actually to make straight measurements and where those two points cross when the 59 and a half lines cross that's where i make my mark and then that's where i was able to put the light now because our frame isn't a hundred percent square to a circle it's close but it's not 100 i had to guess on the framing where to put the lights and i had to pre-wire everything and now i have to hook up all the lights before i can install the borders so i might have to make some small adjustments here and there in the blocking to drill an additional hole if things don't fit properly so i think i've adjusted for that but we're just gonna have to wait and see all right so i have one of my inlay boards is done it's all cut and filed and ready to rock all the lights are installed they all fit now i'm going to start installing this one piece so that i can continue working around the circle the next two pieces i have are partially installed they have two of the three lights installed and the fourth piece i haven't cut or done anything to yet but before i continue going around the circle i kind of need to lock this first piece in so that's what i'm going to do now is screw this all off and then it'll be ready for cortex and then i can continue on with the next two pieces and get those averaged out and then get the fourth piece up here and kind of get it on lock down as well [Music] hey guys dr dex here we are almost finished with our current deck project i have one more piece of decking to install i got to screw this one in i just wrestled with this thing for about 35 minutes trying to make the gutter fit back into its old position i think we're very close so gonna cut this last piece in get this anchor down and then the guys are cleaning up right now here we go [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] all right guys so we just finished up this deck we are done your prescription has been filled check that out that hashtag out on our instagram page you'll find a lot of completed deck projects under that hashtag uh cal put it on the screen all right so let's go over this deck really quick and i'll kind of explain what it is what products are in it how we did things and we'll go from there a unique design client ditch didn't want a square he kind of wanted something to fit the landscape he had a slight swerve in his uh retaining wall so we kind of came up with doing a curved area over here next to the retaining wall and then we translated that into a 20-foot circle that is an inlay through the middle of the deck you saw from our videos that takes a lot longer to prepare and install than if we just lay decking so there's a lot that had to go into it some of the features of this deck include timbertek azac decking the field boards are called coastline it's a grooved board and we use fasten masters five shot fusion lock system to put it down in spots where we couldn't use a fusion lock we also use their stainless steel and cortex happen to have a few on me screwing and plugging system and that's how we anchored this deck together even if we're using their hidden clips we still pin each end of the deck so to minimize expansion and contraction probably the coolest features on this deck are the curves like i said before we have a 20-foot diameter circle that is highlighted in a dark hickory so the field color is coastline all the trim is timbertech azac dark hickory and then we use the seven and a quarter inch multi-width fascia boards all the way around the deck and then we strategically placed in light lighting low voltage led lighting in the surface of the 20-foot diameter circle and then in various parts of the fascia where we wanted to highlight areas where you can just step right off the deck this deck was really low to the ground it had its framing challenges we had to move a lot of dirt just to build this deck this low to the ground and be able to make it sturdy and structural so just something you want to think about if you're going to be tackling your own deck project someday is elevation this one was really low to the ground and it cost us an extra day and work just to get the deck down to that level so on the far end where the the ground drops off we have a couple of wide stairs that we installed and the surface borders go along the entire they chase the entire edge of the upper deck and then the stairs we did not do that because i just felt for the amount of time and effort that we have to put into it we didn't charge for it so we were on a budget and we usually are so we love to keep going and going and going and creating all these amazing spaces but you got to draw the line somewhere so that's where we drew ours and i had a few questions about that so i hope that answers that everything is fit and finished there's no exposed screws anywhere on this deck everything's hidden fastened really proud of that fact and all the wires and lighting and everything is tucked up and stapled tight underneath the deck so this one's a wrap thank you guys so much for watching i really appreciate it if you like what you saw don't forget to click that subscribe button and hit the bell icon to be notified when we're putting out fresh content don't forget to check out that hashtag deckboardbending check out the company called heat con that we use to heat bend our deck boards and thank you so much for watching have a great day [Music] you

Channel: drdecks

Views: 4,247

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: Dr decks, drdecks, deck building, custom decks, pacific northwest, carpentry, decks, deck, deck board bending, supercut, renton curves, build update

Id: kZYUvWmR3dA

Length: 42min 36sec (2556 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 17 2020