'THE POWER PROBE" MUST HAVE ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTIC TOOL

[Music] what's up guys hey more medic one here and welcome back to the more medic one shop and today is gonna be a good little video about electrical system diagnostics i've got a tool that you gotta have really haven't had a chance to really get down to the meat and potatoes of this tool but at the end of this video you're gonna want one of these just like i wanted one so bad alrighty guys the symptoms that i'm having with this machine is that it's blowing the fuse when you turn the key now i just put a fresh fuse and as you can tell it automatically blows it as soon as you turn the key on now this system calls for a 15 amp i'm going to put a 20 amp in it just to show you one more time and i'm going to turn the ignition switch just to run and watch the fuse this is what we call a hard to blow whenever a fuse blows that hard you can be rest assured you have a hot wire going to ground somewhere in that electrical system and since this one's just got uh just a simple charging system and a super simple uh char uh starting system let's see what we can find out all right so on this briggs stratton engine we have two connectors at the engine we have the charging system here this is just a single stator charger it's got the i think it's got a half a half a moon stator it's got one diode here unregulated so we're going to unplug the one below it first and that is the power for the fuel solenoid if your tractor has one now let's retest all right so we have the fuel solenoid and the kill wire disconnected on this tractor and we're going to go here to the key switch and i've got a a low amp fuse in there i've just got a 5 amp just for testing and we can tell it doesn't blow so from somewhere between connector inside the motor harness there's just a wire that goes behind the starter i don't i've never understood why briggs wanted to snake that wire in behind that starter because it could chafe and the wire uh just feeds around and goes to the fuel solenoid if you had one if not you just have a blank connector over there that's what i've got is just a blank connector without a fuel solenoid actually hooked up so what we're going to do we're going to verify that we have voltage to the plug and we're going to verify to see if we have downstream of the plug a direct ground issue for this test procedure i am going to use the power probe it is the model number i can't remember off the top of my head that's the serial number i'll have to i know it's a power probe probe three and it's uh what we do is we hook it up to the battery positive to positive negative to negative and that's going to turn our power probe on and this thing has got a long enough cord for you automotive guys that you can do some extensive work all the way to the back of the car this cord is super long as you can tell our battery voltage is 12.5 [Music] and if you go straight to ground it should make a uh the light should turn green so let's test this we can test real fast whether the switch is grounded the light should turn green when you touch it [Applause] all right we're going to verify that we have 12 volts coming to the plug on the yellow wire now excuse me the brown wire and we do from the light up of our gauge red and we have 12 oops i ran over to the wrong one we have 12.5 volts there and if we touch the ignition wire we don't have anything that's good so to test the yellow side or the kill side of this circuit what you would do you would put your probe on the pin and then turn your key to the off position and you should be grounded and we are okay so we're good up to this point so here is the connector that plugs in the engine just check it and make sure it's not you know anything wrong with the harness but i gave you a clue while ago about how briggs likes to route that wire behind this starter all right so we're going to take our power probe we're going to probe each terminal and we're getting ground on the black wire and we're getting ground on the hot wire to the solenoid so somewhere downstream of this is grounded to the engine block or the frame somewhere somewhere you have a wire chaffed going to ground so i'm going to manipulate this try to get this wire out from behind the starter oh man there it goes oh my look at that look at that guys that starter or that power wire to that solenoid is just flat and the wire is on the back side of this protruding through this skin of the insulation on that wire and it is rubbing the engine block causing me all this headache i don't understand and and i tell you what it this had to have been this way for a long time somebody could have replaced this starter in the past and just didn't get the wire in the right place behind the starter because there is a little slot back there that it can ride in correctly especially up a little bit higher as you can tell here's the the wire that goes to the ignition module for your kill however this repair i'm gonna do a little bit of a hack since i do not have a solenoid anyway as you can tell right here is the connector to the fuel solenoid i am going to snip this hot wire at this connector right here oh i can hear the keyboard commandos right now oh more medic you can't cut the wire it's gonna make it blow up yes i can and i'm going to just cut it flush and we're going to pull that wire on out if i can it's stuck behind there pretty good there we go and here is a better look at that wire guys you got to pay attention to details when you're working on small engines even though that that wire looks like it may have been back there for a while it finally wore through and this ain't my doing i've had this tractor for about six years so i know for a fact that i didn't do that all right let's get it plugged back in here so the only thing that we're going to have power i mean we should have no power to this plug now so all we have is the ground wire to the ignition module and we tested that and made sure that was working all righty guys hey listen we got the right correct fuse in there i'm gonna turn the ignition switch to on all right we don't have a fuse blowing anymore let's see if it'll crank over like a champ guys there are just there is just so much you can do with a power probe you have the button here and you can force a ground circuit to go ground or you can flip it this way and you can force it to go positive so you can actually introduce power to different things say like the solenoid and you can hit forward on it and add power to the solenoid and the engine should crank i'm going to go ahead and start the engine and i'm going to verify that our charging system is still working i think what happened was it was mowing i was mowing when it failed and it wouldn't restart i stuck out in the middle yard so i had to push it to the shop to get it fixed so i'm going to go ahead and get it cranked and we're going to verify with the power probe that we're getting uh the correct amount of voltage to the battery so anytime you do a voltage test for these uh the charging system you want to be sure you run it in wide open throttle i always like to let them get warmed up just a little bit before i pour the pull to it all righty we got that little old murray rider figured out and uh i'll tell you what hey if this content helped you out got a little dirty didn't if this helped you out give me a thumbs up and smash that subscribe button and while you're there click that bell to get all my new notifications you all have a good rest your week more medic one [Music] you

Channel: THEMOWERMEDIC1

Views: 14,270

Keywords: LAWN, MOWER, REPAIR, SMALL ENGINE REPAIR, SMALL ENGINE, BRIGGS AND STRATTON, KOHLER, TECUMSEH, HONDA, KAWASAKI, STARTER REPAIR, GASOLINE, STABILIZER, CARBURETOR, DIAPHRAGM, LAWN MOWER, CHAINSAW, SNOW BLOWER, PUSH MOWER, RIDING MOWER, BELT, CABLE, DECK, BLADES, SHARPEN, DIAGNOSTICS, STEVES SMALL ENGINE SALOON, MIXED GAS, DONYBOY73, THEMOWERMEDIC1, TRANSMISSION, GEARS, STEERING, HYDRAULICS, HYDRO, FLUID, STA BIL, AMAZON, FISH STICKS, HOW TO, DIY, FIX, TIPS, TRICKS

Id: L-FhDusB9_k

Length: 12min 58sec (778 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 05 2021