The Hidden Food Treasures of Los Angeles | I'll Have What Phil's Having | Full Episode

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Viewers like you make this program possible. Support your local PBS station. ROSENTHAL: I can stuff my face guilt free! ♪ ♪ I'm finding some of the best food in the world. - Oh, my god. ROSENTHAL: Right in my adopted hometown: Los Angeles. - That's my entrance. - You're lucky we're on camera. ROSENTHAL: Times are hard. Oh! And I'm bringing some of my favorite locals along for the ride. - The spice says, "Hey, wait, I'm not done yet." ROSENTHAL: Los Angeles, right? Not so bad. - Let me taste yours. ROSENTHAL: That's just a brilliant thing. It's all happening next, on... -<i> I'll Have What Phil's Having!</i> Now, would someone tell me, which one is Phil. ROSENTHAL: There were things I never tasted growing up, like food with any flavor. In our house, meat was a punishment. When I went into the real world, I was like a man coming out of the desert. Then I started writing comedy and traveling to other lands to eat. The world can be a beautiful, delicious, and friendly place when we travel and eat great food together. I'm Phil Rosenthal, and I'm here to see and eat most of it, and to say to you, "Come on, you can have what I'm having." I was born in Queens, New York, I've lived in New York City my whole life. Never dreamed of leaving and then because I got work writing, I moved out to L.A. ♪ ♪ And I hated it. I had been raised by Woody Allen movies and the way he felt about Los Angeles, like the only thing you could find on a menu were alfalfa sprouts and a plate of mashed yeast. He thought it was a cultural wasteland, and when I got here I thought that he had been kind. I thought it was like Paramus with palm trees. And then I started to make friends both in show business and the food business and these friends became part of my extended family in this far-away place. I now love showing my non-foodie friends what I keep discovering, that L.A. has one of the most lively and diverse food cultures in the world. - I think it has the best ethnic food anywhere on the planet, I mean across the board. ROSENTHAL: It's my goal in life to become a go-to guy for this. I want to be your go-to guy. So let's begin with the place that might even be my favorite. This is the place that makes Los Angeles feel like a small town to me. This is the original farmer's market at Third and Fairfax. It's got everything I love-- charm and character and history and it's open air so it takes advantage of the weather. Do you remember coming here when? - When we first... ROSENTHAL: We first moved in? - Yes, of course. This is how you wooed me. ROSENTHAL: I wooed you with fruit and vegetables. - And ice cream. ROSENTHAL: My beautiful bride Monica and I love coming here sometimes before they're ready for us. When do you open? - When do you open? ROSENTHAL: 9:00! I'm gonna wait right here. (chuckles) It's also a great place to grab a meal with friends like Ray Romano and his wife Anna. Today, we're having some breakfast. - Where are we going? ROSENTHAL: You like huevos rancheros? - Yeah, that's-that's... yeah, that's an egg thing, right? ROSENTHAL: Very good! We had a Spanish lesson! Ray Romano-- I love him, everybody loves him. We shared very nice success together. How often you meet a guy that changes your life, makes it better? I love this place. I love La Loteria because they have the best huevos rancheros and they even make them spicy. L.A., of course, is famous for Mexican food. And one of my favorite ways to eat it is for breakfast. Chorizo and eggs, black beans, tortillas with mole. Can't get enough. - How far away is the bathroom from here? That'll dictate what I order. ROSENTHAL: He just canceled his order. My other favorite thing about the farmer's market is the variety. While one store makes you eggs, you can walk ten feet to another one and get great pastries. - How about a donut with cinnamon? I said it right-- "cimmamom." Didn't we do that on the show? ROSENTHAL: That's how you used to say it. ROSENTHAL: We did it on the show because you couldn't say it any other way! We had to do it. - Thank God I was stupid or we'd have no show. ROSENTHAL: He wanted to get me a birthday present, I had a big birthday and he wrote me a card, he said, "What do you get the guy who has everything because of you?" - You're lucky we're on camera. ROSENTHAL: Times are hard. Oh! Look! - Soon as the cameras are gone I want $18 back. ROSENTHAL: One reason we've all gotten along so well is that like so many Los Angelinos, we're transplants. You're from Queens, too? You're from Queens, you're from Queens, I'm from Queens. Born in Queens. The first time I saw Ray, we were in bed watching TV and we were watching Letterman, and here comes a comedian, and we were hysterical laughing over this bit, where my material doesn't really, I'm... - I can't, not that I have... - I know it was the keys, the keys. - Now that I have little kids, it's hard for me to write jokes for adults. Because all I do is try to make them laugh. So my perspective is gone a little. I've written one... let's see. I've written one new joke since my twins were born. Here, is this funny? Then I was like "Hi, everybody! Hi!" ♪ ♪ We would-- we would be eating this! ROSENTHAL: Oh! So this is basic... your basic huevos rancheros with spicy sauce. - Can I... let me... can I taste that sauce a little bit? ROSENTHAL: Yes, yes, do it. - Here. - Oh, that's good. - This, of course, everyone taste the chilaquiles with mole. ROSENTHAL: This is killer. Because this is just... it's really just chips and sauce. - Ooh, that's a little spice, ooh that's a little spice. ROSENTHAL: The spicy huevos rancheros morita are my favorite, but the sleeper could be the chilaquiles-- a classic Mexican breakfast of nachos tossed in a dark mole sauce and topped with eggs or chicken, cheese and a triple barrel blast of sour cream. - What is mole? ROSENTHAL: Mole is a sauce that has many, many different spices in it, but one of the things that's in it is unsweetened chocolate. - Chocolate, right. ROSENTHAL: Which makes it that color. - Really? ROSENTHAL: Yeah. The four of us love eating together. You just told me one thing that she said that you said I wish the show was still going. (laughs) Should I clean it up a little? It's not really dirty, but... - Clean it up. - I can't... (laughs) ROSENTHAL: See that's the thing, we loved all these times you would put us down. Because it's easy for us to think of the wife jokes, but we actually needed the other side. More importantly was to make fun of him. - So we get writer's credit? ROSENTHAL: And you're great at that. To the wives. - Yes. - To the husbands. ROSENTHAL: We wouldn't be here without you. (laughter) ♪ ♪ One of the coolest things about Los Angeles is you'll be driving down the street, and you pass a lot of nondescript buildings, a lot of nondescript architecture, and you'll drive past one of a million strip malls. Well, behind the Raffallo's Pizza and behind the Thai place, are two of the better restaurants in America. That's not a pizza restaurant on the right, only the sign is. What's there is really Trois Mec, a modern experimental powerhouse and behind the old Thai place sign on the left is Petit Trois a classic bistro. The masterminds behind these tricks that turn out to be treats are the phenomenal bad boy French chef Ludo Lefebvre along with John Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the duo behind game-changing L.A. restaurants Animal and Son of a Gun. - A taste of France. A bistro like this it's all about the bread and the butter. ROSENTHAL: This is awesome. You don't need anything on this bread. It's so good. But if you have butter... French butter. Special delivery from Normandy. - Look, look. - Shave it. Shave it. Like this? Come on, like this? Close your eyes and you'd think you are in France. ROSENTHAL: Could you come to my house in the morning and just do that for me? If you gave me nothing else today, I would leave happy. Ludo doesn't take me up on my offer, thank God, but instead shows me how to make a most classic French dish. Look at this. A master class in eggs. - Omelet is very simple. It's really about technique and texture. Good quality of eggs, of course, from farmer's market. Do you understand what I say? ROSENTHAL: Yes. You look at me like. ROSENTHAL: That's how I look. That's just my natural look. - Okay, Phil. So eggs, salt, pepper. ROSENTHAL: Yes. - So, beat very well your eggs okay, beat very well your eggs, it's very important. You want to mix the egg yolk and the egg white. I saw so many mistakes in restaurants, where you can see the egg yolk and the egg white is not mixed together. And you see some pieces of egg white in the omelet. That's wrong. ROSENTHAL: And Ludo's serious about his eggs. He's like an omelet drill sergeant. - So, beat your eggs. Melt your butter slowly-- no coloration. And when you're doing omelet, the most important thing is to be gentle. See? You don't hear... (imitates sizzle) No. Gentle. Okay? Just shake it all the time. ROSENTHAL: All the time? It demands your attention. - Yes. Yes, put back inside. ROSENTHAL: Because if you let it stop it gets brown and you don't want that. - Voila. You can put any garnish you want. Here at the restaurant we use Boursin. With Boursin, everybody has that in France in their fridge. ROSENTHAL: What do you call it? - The French Velveeta. (laughs) Love it, I grew up with that ROSENTHAL: The eggs almost look scrambled, but Ludo knows exactly how long to let them set before rolling. And there it is. My perfect omelet. - So you see this inside? Look at this. ROSENTHAL: Yes, it's barely cooked. - Barely cooked. See that? So you won't have no texture. ROSENTHAL: Wow. That's just a brilliant thing. And you serve it at lunch and dinner? - Yeah. ROSENTHAL: French people eat an omelet for dinner. Yeah. I love that idea. Ludo's French, I'm a New Yorker, that's how it is in L.A., and I love it here because the world comes to me. Like Koreatown, and today I want to bring someone here who's not so familiar with it. I'm fortunate to count among my friends a man named Martin Short. (no audio) I think if you put all the funniest people in the world in one room, Marty might be the funniest. - What are... what kinda food are we gonna eat tonight? ROSENTHAL: Honestly, Korean. - Uh-huh... (laughs) ROSENTHAL: Do you wanna bring any of your... - I'd like to bring some food. ROSENTHAL: You want... (laughs) - I mean, with all honesty. ROSENTHAL: Have you had Korean food? - Nope, because I've always wanted to wake up and live the following day. ROSENTHAL: I know just the guy to win Marty over. This is chef Roy Choi, America's foremost Korean ambassador and he's got two new restaurants in the Line Hotel. Downstairs is Pot, where Roy does classic Korean, especially my favorite-- kimchi fried rice. - Kimchi is basically sauerkraut, but instead of it being just salt and cabbage and pepper and apples or whatever, it has spice in it. And so this has chili flakes, garlic, ginger, green onions, it has fish sauce, oysters. ROSENTHAL: Oysters? - Yeah, and all of that will allow for the cabbage to ferment. You can let this sit for two months in your refrigerator and then take it out, then open it and then basically piss off all the neighbors. ROSENTHAL: Maybe I should start Marty off a little easier so I'm taking him upstairs to Roy's rooftop spot, Commissary, where the menu's more Americanized. Or, in Marty's case, Canadianized. These are the basic ingredients that you can order. - But the pictures are like something that your gardener would show you to say this is what's wrong with the lawn, this is why we have to spray. I mean, we've got snails, we've got... ROSENTHAL: There's a picture of pasta. Where's a picture of pasta? What page are you on? I got two of the same. ROSENTHAL: Yes. Don't worry about that. - All righty. ROSENTHAL: Good. Wow. Look at that. Classy, huh? Cheers. - Cheers. ROSENTHAL: Tub of alcohol. - Tub of alcohol. Mm... - That's good booze. The late Mickey Rooney used to bathe in something this size. (laughs) ROSENTHAL: Are there any pictures that you enjoyed? We could be really surprised and delighted. - I think just coffee and the check. ROSENTHAL: I get it. - No, we haven't eaten yet, that's right. ROSENTHAL: We want the steak, we want the schnitzel. And if you wouldn't mind, see if it's okay, Kimchi fried rice. - Kimchi rice. ROSENTHAL: This may change your life. Have you ever had it? - No. ROSENTHAL: I love that. Okay. So, this hotel caters to a young, hip crowd. And the restaurants also-- you see young Hollywood in here. What you call young Hollywood, are you talking about the Biebs? ROSENTHAL: The Biebs? Who are the Biebs? - Boy. Now that's the definition of old Hollywood. ROSENTHAL: Bieber! Bieber! I got it! I win! - Good grandma. ROSENTHAL: This would be cool enough for him. - The wonderful Ashton Kutcher? ROSENTHAL: Yes, he would come. - All the hipsters? ROSENTHAL: All right now this came up from downstairs. Don't be scared. - Oh, gorgeous. Wow, this is good. Oh, my God, is it good. ROSENTHAL: Isn't that great? This is something you've never had before? - No. ROSENTHAL: I love that you get to try to this, okay. The kimchi rice is a perfect accent to Commissary's standard items, like roasted vegetables and beautifully cooked and sauced meats. - This is just... This is really delicious food. ROSENTHAL: This is his take on California cuisine and he's celebrating the fantastic produce, and raw materials that we have to work with. - Because I have pressure to stay thin, I'll be purging this later-- is that wrong? Is that a message you don't want to? ROSENTHAL: No, you do what you do. Look at you... you made short order of that drink too, mister. You've been around there. -(slurring): Ah, shut up Phil. Oooh, "Doris Roberts is my friend." Who cares? I got friends. ROSENTHAL: This is very innovative food, right? - Well this is my favorite, actually. ROSENTHAL: The Korean? - Yeah. ROSENTHAL: Isn't that sauce amazing? - Yes. ROSENTHAL: Go like this. (exhales) (groans) (rasping): Why you bastard. ROSENTHAL: Those are his last words. ♪ ♪ Steve Nathan and I have been friends for about 20 years. He started as a writer with me on<i> Raymond</i> and he went on to run the show<i> Bones,</i> which scares me. And then I didn't see him for a year or so and one day I'm reading about this great new bakery in Santa Monica called Huckleberry. And I hear they serve great breakfast, great lunch, great sandwiches, great baked goods. Great everything. So I go in there, and there is my friend Steve Nathan, and he's up to his elbows in turkey meatballs! He's in the back, I'm like, "Steve! Are things not going well?" "No," he says, "I'm here for fun!" His daughter is Zoe Nathan, arguably one of the best bakers in the United States. Everything she touches turns out very, very well. - Let me get you an apron. ROSENTHAL: I'm so much more comfortable on the other side. Eating. - I know! Yes, and you will eat. You will eat eventually. ROSENTHAL: But you're saying I have to work first. - Yes, you have to work. Put these in here. ROSENTHAL: They put me to work right away. And Steve is more than happy to make pancakes-- in fact, it's his recipe that they use at Huckleberry. - We want to separate the eggs. ROSENTHAL: Oh, I'm gonna stink at this. - No, no, no. ROSENTHAL: Really, with the hands? Really? - With the hands! ROSENTHAL: It's disgusting! - No, it's not! ROSENTHAL: You make the show<i> Bones,</i> so that's the most horrific... people dying in awful ways show, right? - Yes, it's disgusting. ROSENTHAL: So this is right in your wheelhouse. - This is my sequel. It's eggs. ROSENTHAL: The egg whites are whipped up, and added to a mixture of milk, flour, sugar, salt and vanilla beans. Most people don't make pancakes by folding egg whites into the pancake. - I don't think so. The egg whites just make it rise, it's really light, plumps up and is-is just great. ROSENTHAL: That's a brilliant thing. ♪ ♪ <i> That's</i> a pancake! Look, people! - That's perfect. That's what you want. ROSENTHAL: So these are vanilla pancakes? - They're vanilla pancakes, yeah. ROSENTHAL: Look out, people! And this is where I hurt myself. Right off the griddle? - Right off the griddle. Taste it plain. ROSENTHAL: It's so light and fluffy. You're like a genius! You've been wasting your time making<i> Bones!</i> It's so good! It tastes like my childhood, come on. ROSENTHAL: But her.. what she doesn't say is that she had a terrible childhood. (imitates vomiting) (chuckles) (bell dings) - Okay, you guys have your first order. ROSENTHAL: Seriously? Yeah! ROSENTHAL: All right! So, after my ten-minute internship, I am a professional line cook already. I predict this will go horribly. Now who gets these? Zoe? - Yes, sir? ROSENTHAL: Here's the... here's the thing. I'm bringing it out to the people. Look at Zoe-- "You cannot represent me." - No, you're staying here! - No, no, no, I'm not! Come on, come on, Phil. ROSENTHAL: We wanna watch. - Okay guys, I gotta tell you, it's not a real order. But I didn't want you guys to feel bad. ROSENTHAL: Liar! Liar! Horrible child! - Wait, I'm going to give it somebody. Come on, we're giving them away, we're gonna give them away. I didn't want you to feel bad! ROSENTHAL: I don't want your pity! - I wanted you guys to have a real full experience! ROSENTHAL: Well now it's ruined because you lied! - Come on, we're giving them away to a lucky customer. ROSENTHAL: Do you like pancakes? - Yeah. - There you go. ROSENTHAL: So we made these, fresh. Zoe-- don't worry, Zoe Nathan was like making sure we didn't poison anybody. This is our future. - Oh, my God. Those are so good. ROSENTHAL: Tastes so good. - Tastes so good. ROSENTHAL: The people who ate our pancakes? - Yeah, they loved them. They died. They died, I'm sorry. I think Zoe's misread my enthusiasm for confidence and wants me to help some more. Maybe she's not so smart. - I'm gonna teach you how to make kouign amann dough. It's similar to croissant dough. And we make little pies out of 'em. ROSENTHAL: Kouign amann dough! - Yeah. ROSENTHAL: That was my stage name! (chuckles) Okay. So you're gonna turn them over, and then you're gonna go in like this, in like this, in like this, and then push like that. ROSENTHAL: I can't do that. - I know. Okay. (laughs) ROSENTHAL: Oh! - Right. A little bit, push them in a little bit more. Don't be scared. Yeah, then that... then that side. Yeah! Perfect! ROSENTHAL: Like a mush ball. - What's really sad is they don't look that much different. You know what I mean? ROSENTHAL: Well what would you rather have: a kouign amann or Phil's mush balls? All right, I'm retiring. - Okay, give me your apron. ROSENTHAL: For the good of your store, I'm retiring. - Hi, how's it going, guys? ROSENTHAL: Hey, what do you got? - I got green eggs and ham here, and this is brisket hash. ROSENTHAL: Oh. - Brisket's for Phil. ROSENTHAL: Oh come on! - I'm gonna have a little bit of this. ROSENTHAL: Oh, oh! - Oh, my god. - There's so much more to come. ROSENTHAL: There's more to come? - Oh yeah! ROSENTHAL: I need the banana chocolate-- that I do need. - That's coming, it's all coming. - Oh, you know what? I'm gonna have... ROSENTHAL: That's the height of nerve I think. To say where's the other thing? - This is it? ROSENTHAL: Yeah. ROSENTHAL: Melts in your mouth. She's very generous. I mean that's even her motto, is everything in generosity. My family is a little different. Their motto is: everything inconvenient. - Oh, here's what you made. - Okay, this is what you made. ROSENTHAL: Look how good we did! - Right? ROSENTHAL: Yeah! - That's one of the best things she makes so far. ROSENTHAL: I have to say, I am a genius. - (laughing): Yes, you are. ROSENTHAL: I'm usually modest. But I'm remarkable. - They're good, right? ROSENTHAL: I think... I don't wanna say your days are numbered, but... From the pastries and donuts to her green eggs and ham, to her freshly baked bagels, there's no shortage of options. I could eat here every day, if she'll just let me back in the store. From Huckleberry in Santa Monica it's just a short trip up the coast to a Rosenthal family favorite. Malibu, Malibu, Malibu. Malibu is iconic. Everybody has their image of Malibu, and there's that-- there's the surfers and the hoity toity beach houses and everything, but one guy, Bill Miller-- another New York transplant-- may be the anti-hoity toity. You go in and you feel like you're in a general store in Vermont, serving the best kind of New York deli food with his spin on it. Then you walk out onto the little patio, and the little picnic bench, and you're in Malibu! My dad, Max Rosenthal, is with us for the week. My mom sent him out here-- why? Because she said she needed a vacation. So I'm taking him, Monica and our daughter Lily to see Bill, and to have my favorite turkey sandwich by the sea. - The Rosenthals are here! Oy, oy, oy. ROSENTHAL: Oy, oy, oy. Excuse me-- Lily, Lily, Lily, Lily. My Lily, hi. ROSENTHAL: Not everybody loves Bill. - Don't be difficult! Have you figured out what you're eating yet? ROSENTHAL: I know what I want, I came knowing what I want. He can be brusque, you know, he doesn't suffer fools. I want the turkey with the cranberry. - Don't be spoiled. - I'm not. ROSENTHAL: Is it fresh today, turkey? - No, it's a week old but you'll never know the difference, and the green parts you'll just cut away! I've had it with you so much. - I've had it with you! - I don't even wanna wait on you anymore. - All right with the kibitzing, I would like a veggie wrap. - That's it? We're done? Get out! ♪ ♪ ROSENTHAL: Bill roasts a fresh turkey every day and takes full advantage of all the fresh produce California has to offer. Worth a schlep out to the beach. - Look at him. Look at the puppy! Do the voice. ROSENTHAL (baby voice): Look at the puppy. So how do you like California so far? - What's not to like? (chuckles) - Tell him the first time he came here with Helen. And we were driving from the airport and he saw all the palm trees. ROSENTHAL: He was looking at everything and, "Helen, look! Look!" "I'm looking, Max." "No, look! Look! You're not looking!" "Max, I'm looking, what do you want?" "If you were looking, you'd be saying 'ooh' and 'ah' more!" (laughs) - I don't want you to think... I do this for everybody. ROSENTHAL: Whoa, look at my favorite sandwich. This is fresh roast turkey with cranberry, and brie and greens. Is that lovely? - Bill, that fried chicken's amazing. - Great. - It's good? - Delicious chicken. ROSENTHAL: So, Bill, I just wanna tell the people a little bit of your story. You managed big rock and roll bands like... - Led Zeppelin, back in the '70s. I was. - I like you more now. (laughter) - KISS, Sinatra, which was my favorite. Moody Blues. ROSENTHAL: Wasn't Elvis in the mix, too? - And I did Elvis, and I was with Elvis, but with Colonel. I was the Colonel's guy. So I was the tour manager for all of these acts. And when I traveled overseas, and we had a little extra time, I went to restaurants and collected menus. I always knew that I wanted to do something with food. And I thought it was going to be this. Not a Jewish deli, but a New York style deli. It's all comfort food. ROSENTHAL: You know this is my favorite sandwich. - Really? ROSENTHAL: I don't have to say that. - Did you hear this? (laughter) ROSENTHAL: Bill, what do you want the people to know about your philosophy of food? And the care that you put into the place and...? You know, when they come in, I really want them to know what they want to eat! (laughter) (indistinct chatter) ROSENTHAL: You know, when people say, "Why is he so rude?" I... maybe it's you. (horns honking) Years ago the only reason people went to downtown L.A. was to dump a body. But all that's changed. This is our Brooklyn now. The place is bustling with new reasons to go down there. Even if one of those new reasons is about 100 years old. - ♪ One, two ♪ ♪ One, two, three, four ♪ ROSENTHAL: What I love about Grand Central Market is what I love about all the other great markets that you visit in the world. This is where it's, you know, a microcosm of life. Where so many cultures, and ethnicities and foods are all coming together and you can turn to the left and get a pork taco and turn to the right and get wonton soup! It's phenomenal. If the farmer's market on Fairfax is an outdoor country market, Grand Central Market is an indoor urban market. A lot of the vendors coming in now are hip and new, but we're in a building that's from 1917 that's been designated a historic landmark. Now my friend I want to turn onto this place today is not a historic landmark, she's a national treasure: Allison Janney. - Wait a second, is that just... ROSENTHAL: That's just giant hunks of pig. - All right, I would do that. ROSENTHAL: Here you go. Simple. When you meet Allison Janney, she's just one of the most delightful, fun, outgoing, beautiful, terrific ladies you'll ever meet. Vitamin P. - That's ridiculous. ROSENTHAL: And you forget when you're with her, oh wait a minute, this is one of the best actresses in the world! I'm not exaggerating. <i> Bueno.</i> <i> - Bueno, muy bueno. ROSENTHAL: Muy bueno.</i> <i> Gracias, muchas gracias. - Muchas gracias</i> ROSENTHAL: You know what that is? - I don't wanna know what that is. (chuckles) ROSENTHAL: To make the most of the market, you gotta be at least a little bit adventurous. So even if it isn't a fried pig ear kind of day, it doesn't mean that we can't try new things. - One dollar, open, put here. - One dollar? Really? I put it in my latte? ROSENTHAL: Should I do it, too? - Let's do it. I think we should do it. ROSENTHAL: Is it like drugs? No drugs, it's a ginseng extract. To get energy. ROSENTHAL: Yeah, we need that! Put inside. - That's gonna be awful. ROSENTHAL: No, it's going to be delicious. - You try it first. ROSENTHAL: Okay, Allison, anything you say. - Here, try it, just take a sip of that. ROSENTHAL: It's actually fine. - It is? ROSENTHAL: It doesn't add a lot of flavor. - Okay, well that happened. ROSENTHAL: Nice. - That tastes good! ROSENTHAL: Yeah, it's fine! All righty! - All right, now I've got the energy. ROSENTHAL: Allison Janney has won six Emmys, two in the past year alone for two different shows in the same year: <i> Mom</i> and<i> Masters of Sex,</i> in which she got incredibly naked. I can't do that. Oh, we're running up the calorie tote board. This is Belcampo, an organic butcher from Oakland. This is all natural, great grass-fed beef. That hot dog, is that your hot dog? - Yeah. - We gotta try that. Dog and a burger. - I'm going to give you guys fries too. They're awesome. ROSENTHAL: It's only my favorite food, and the worst food for you. I try to tell everybody, pick your spots. You with me today is a spot. We're gonna do it. - I didn't eat any breakfast, I'm not gonna feel guilty. ROSENTHAL: Tell us your health tips. - Every night in the '80s, all I ate was pasta with pesto. That was the only thing I ate. It was the only thing I knew how to cook in New York City when I lived there, and I ate it every night. And I thought, "Well, surely, it's a meal that runners eat, and they're thin." But I forgot the running part, you know? It was like, "Oh yeah, you gotta run." Oh, this looks delicious. Oh, my gosh. Look at that beautiful sesame seed bun. ROSENTHAL: Oh, look at that! Now we need everything that goes with that, yes. - Okay, now, are you a person who thinks that ketchup on a hot dog is a sin? ROSENTHAL: Not a sin. - You are, I can tell. ROSENTHAL: Not a sin, but I don't talk to you no more. - House-made ketchup, house-made aioli. - I'm just gonna split this too so you can put what you want on your dog... ROSENTHAL: And you can put the disgusting things that you like on yours. - Okay. ROSENTHAL: Don't you love that? - Well, everyone has an opinion in L.A. She said, "No such thing as humane meat." ROSENTHAL: I love that. Or manners, apparently. - Or manners. ROSENTHAL: Next up, Wexler's, a modern take on the Jewish deli that also features an old-timey treat. You take your homemade soda fountain syrup, add a couple drops of acid phosphate for snap, and your time machine is ready to go. Can I buy you a phosphate, Allison? - Why sure, Phil! ROSENTHAL: I feel like I'm on a date in 1912. All right, here you go. - Say, that's a delicious phosphate! ROSENTHAL: Say, Allison, do you have a date for the prom yet? - I don't know! It depends on who's asking. ROSENTHAL: Oh, a friend of mine wanted me to ask. - I could be free. If there's corned beef involved. ROSENTHAL: (laughs) Los Angeles, right? Not so bad. - Let me taste yours. ROSENTHAL: If you can... that's great, right? - Oh, peanut butter. ROSENTHAL: Have another. - Let me finish this one first. Let me taste the bottom one. ROSENTHAL: After we get our last licks in at the Grand Central Market, I say goodbye to sweet Allison and head five minutes southeast to a section of town called Boyle Heights. There are parts of my adopted town that I've never been to. But I wanted to find the best tacos in L.A., so I called upon food journalist Bill Esparza. Ever since he wrote something called the Tacopedia for<i> L.A. Magazine,</i> he's been regarded as L.A.'s taco czar. If you're gonna try a lot of tacos, you're gonna need more than two guys, so I called up a buddy of mine to come along. Larry Wilmore, my friend for many years. He created<i> The Bernie Mac Show.</i> You knew him as a correspondent on<i> The Daily Show,</i> and now he's the host of<i> The Nightly Show.</i> He's a very funny, very sweet guy, and he likes to eat. We learn right off the bat that the best tacos in L.A. will not be found in any restaurant. First stop, Guerilla Tacos, made by one of Bill's favorite chefs, Wes Avila. - No one's doing anything like this guy. ROSENTHAL: In L.A.? - Anywhere. ROSENTHAL: Anywhere! - He's from Pico Rivera-- it's one of the famous Latino neighborhoods-- and he worked in France in one of the Alain Ducasse restaurants. And then he decided, "You know what? "I want to do my food, "but more from the perspective of a Mexican-American "who's also grown up with a lot of tradition but then has California ingredients." - So these first ones are calamari steak with chili de arbol, a little pickled onions. - Wow, calamari steak. - Some fresh limes. ROSENTHAL: Mm. - What do you think? Great? - The spices keep hitting you. The spice says, "Hey, wait, I'm not done yet. "I'm not done. Now I'm... no, no, no!" - Los Angeles probably has more diversity in tacos than even Mexico City. - You got your Asian tacos here, you got your black tacos, you got your white people food tacos, you got all your different... ROSENTHAL: That's Wonder Bread and ketchup. - Exactly. - Here's another one, this is the beef brisket hash. - This is the one I wanted to try. - It's got a little fried egg. - I saw this on the menu. Now, this is what I'm talking about right here. This is very close to a black taco. ROSENTHAL: I could make an argument it's the most Jewish taco. - This is the Benetton ad taco. ROSENTHAL: This is the most flavorful, beefy, eggy... I want to follow this truck around like the Grateful Dead. I guess it's greedy to want more. Is it wrong to ask? - No. - I got something for you guys. I'll get another round. ROSENTHAL: Chef Wes calls an audible. I can assure you that what came next is 100% grade-A, non-white person taco. I got your next one ready here, guys. Kampachi with the local sea urchin. ROSENTHAL: Come on! - Santa Barbara. ROSENTHAL: Wow. Okay, technically this is a tostada, but I'm not sending it back. - This is right up your alley. You love sushi and you love tacos. ROSENTHAL: Here I am. Okay, what's next? - A traditional carnitas vendor. A family. The father, Momo, has been doing this thing for 53 years, and he was trained in the kind of, like, carnitas center of Michoacán, so I would imagine that it's the best carnitas in the United States. I can't think of any... ROSENTHAL: Come on! - It is! ROSENTHAL: I'm excited! - Yeah! - "Carnitas El Momo." Give me some Momo. ROSENTHAL: This looks like, you know, a very nondescript truck, and unless I was with you, to be honest, I don't know that I'm stopping at this truck. - This is keeping it real. This is keeping it real. - Carnitas is usually a whole animal. It's the whole hog. So you get the face, you get ears, you can get snout... ROSENTHAL: Face is good. - And now you're gonna get the nice big pig esophagus today. ROSENTHAL: What? - Oh, well, have you ever had hog's maw before? - Absolutely. Yeah, come on. - (laughing) ROSENTHAL: We had a whole seder, a whole seder built around... - I was asking him. - Phil's Jewish mother in New York just passed out. - Here you go, look at that. ROSENTHAL: Looky, looky. Wow. Cheers, boys. - Oh, man. Wow. ROSENTHAL: Oh, my god. That is different carnitas. Wowee, wow, wow. Bill knows his stuff. - He does. He's the taco whisperer. ROSENTHAL: I'm kind of in love with Bill. Don't tell him. It's so juicy and smoky and savory and tender and shredded perfectly and so delicious, and my mouth is watering talking about it. Two dollars. Two dollars! - He gets up at 1:30 in the morning. ROSENTHAL: Mr. Momo? - Mr. Momo. - You're kidding me. ROSENTHAL: How do you say "delicious"? - Riquisimo. ROSENTHAL: Riquisimo? - Riquisimo. ROSENTHAL: Riquisimo. World-class meal. - (speaking Spanish) You like it? ROSENTHAL: I do. It's possible to have a vacation and to have the experience of travel right where you live. You can travel within your town. You can go to a restaurant of a cuisine and a culture that you never tried before and just try it. And maybe if we like what we taste, we taste a little more. Other times, you just want what's familiar-- for instance, Langer's, my favorite Jewish deli in town and an L.A. institution for over 67 years. Now, I'm from New York, and this place just isn't on par with the delis I grew up with-- it's better. This might be the place that said to me, "Okay, you can live here." If you were to pick a comedy writer's single favorite meal, it might be this: a pastrami sandwich. It even sounds funny. You might say we're fueled by this kind of food, and Langer's is the high-octane stuff. Now, this is a good day. This gentleman in the hat here is the most influential creator of television in history: the great Norman Lear. You know he created<i> All in the Family</i> and countless other beloved shows, but in addition, he also likes a sandwich. I was sitting at work one day in the first season of<i> Everybody Loves Raymond.</i> My phone rang. They told me, "Norman Lear's on line one." I couldn't even believe it. I picked up the phone and I said, "Hello?" He said, "I hear we're fans of each other." I said, "I don't know about you, but I'm a big fan of yours!" He goes, "We should have lunch." And I dropped dead. We became friends. That was, I don't know, 18 years ago? Now, just having lunch with Norman Lear should be enough for anybody, but then this guy shows up. - This is my entrance. That's my entrance. ROSENTHAL: That's it? - That's all I've got. ROSENTHAL: That was very good. You're like Barbra Streisand coming in. - I get that a lot. ROSENTHAL: My introduction to Paul Reiser I believe was a movie called<i> Diner</i> in 1982. So we're talking about 30 years ago, I thought... Sorry. Pastrami. - I think the beard is handsome. - You like it? - If they were collecting us, you'd be a prize. - (laughs) They're collecting us? - Yeah, yeah, animals, if they were collecting us. - I didn't know how far back you were going. - (laughs) - How long have you been in L.A.? - Uh, 50-couple... 52 years. - I've been here 30-something years. ROSENTHAL: 25. - Never been to Langer's. Let me tell you something, Phil tells me all the time, "Oh, I've got this new show, "we're going to Paris, we're going to Lisbon, "we're going to Tokyo. Would you like to be on the show?" "Yeah, where are we going?" "Seventh and Alvarado." That's my trip. ROSENTHAL: You're going to Langer's! The reason I wanted to take you here is because this is the best pastrami sandwich in America. There's one number you have to know: it's number 19. Number 19. It's the pastrami, Swiss, coleslaw, Russian dressing on the best rye bread in America sandwich. There's only one thing you have to know: it's number 19. - Maybe I'm gonna go different! - That's what my driver said. The driver, the guy who's driving me here, said "They'll love you if you say 'Number 19.'" - Is that right? - Now, I'm gonna be honest with you... ROSENTHAL: You don't want it. - (laughs) I'll just have some Jell-O. I thought... I believed, maybe I'm wrong, that Swiss cheese fights the pastrami. ROSENTHAL: You would think that. You'd be wrong. - Swiss cheese on pastrami? It's Langer's, it's not New York. It's the best. ROSENTHAL: Listen, I'll get one, and if you want a bite, you don't have to commit. - (laughs) - I'll have a number 19. ROSENTHAL: Me too, because I don't like to make trouble, like some people. - I just want a regular pastrami sandwich, and the Swiss cheese that comes on a 19, I'd like you take my cheese and shove it up his (bleep). Is that all right? - (laughs) ROSENTHAL: The whole thesis of this episode is that Los Angeles at the moment is the... - (voice mumbling on PA) BOTH: My flight is in. - Wow! Wow! (laughing) ROSENTHAL: You're not so special. The comedy today isn't limited to just the three of us. The owner of Langer's, Norman Langer, he stops by to say hello. - Have you been here since day one? - I got here this morning at 9:00 - No, I meant... - (laughing) ROSENTHAL: But all kidding stops when the sandwiches get here. Oh! Whoa. - Is this salad? I'm told to eat salad, is that salad? - It's yellow salad. ROSENTHAL: Thank you. The world holds its breath. - Jesus (bleep). - As good as that? - I'll have the tuna. ROSENTHAL: (laughs) - That's unbelievable. ROSENTHAL: How about the... Did you get a little crispy on the side? - I got the crispy on the side, I got the soft, like a baby's butt, but then suddenly meat. ROSENTHAL: Your metaphors are curious, but it is delicious. Listen, half of a sandwich's value is the bread. This is something we take for granted. It's not just what's in the sandwich; the bread is half the sandwich! Tell us the secret of the rye bread. - In the 1940s, before my dad opened here, he opened a deli in Palm Springs. And there was no Jewish bakeries in Palm Springs, so he commissioned a bakery here in Los Angeles to make rye bread for him, and it was brought to Palm Springs every day by Greyhound bus. My dad had to find a way to rejuvenate the bread, because it was day old by the time he served it to everyone. So he created a process of re-baking the bread. ROSENTHAL: Which comes twice baked, that's where that comes from. - In essence, it's only 80% finished at the bakery. ROSENTHAL: I see. - So you had to tell them, "Don't cook it all the way." ROSENTHAL: This is not just... I'm not just saying this because the man is sitting here. This is not just the best pastrami sandwich that I've had, this is one of the best sandwiches anywhere in the world. - Thank you so much. ROSENTHAL: It's so nice. - That's an unbelievable sandwich. ROSENTHAL: Yeah? - Yeah. - Damn, that's good! ROSENTHAL: Very good. - I don't care what anybody says. ROSENTHAL: It's fantastic. - (yelling): I think this is terrific! ROSENTHAL: (laughing) This is where we find out Norman's lost it a little bit. We have men come and take him outside. Look at that! Gentlemen, choose your weapon. - My body's a temple. Yes, well I hope it's a reformed temple, because we're going in. Please don't get your beard hairs in there. I haven't had it. - He's very old. Let him get in. Oh, it's a little more... It's not quite pudding, it's a little... ROSENTHAL: It's kind of Jell-O-ish. - It's almost rice pudding. It's nearing rice pudding. - It's rice pudding adjacent. - What if that's what kills him, wouldn't you feel bad? ROSENTHAL: (laughing) - You'll kick yourself in the morning. "What killed Norman?" "The last bite of cake." - (laughing) ROSENTHAL: And... - I hope you're happy now, schmuck. (ringing) ROSENTHAL: Hello? - Yeah, I'm here. Hold it. Do you see me now? ROSENTHAL: Mazel tov! - Look at that! ROSENTHAL: How are you? - Good, how are you? ROSENTHAL: You look very nice! - Stay back, stay back. - Okay, how's this? - That's good. ROSENTHAL: A little further. - (laughs) ROSENTHAL: No, you look very good, actually. Being away from your husband agrees with you. - Absolutely. I'm sure he feels the same way. How do you feel? ROSENTHAL: He likes it here. - I know! ROSENTHAL: He likes it, he wants you to move. - No, he can move, I'll stay and visit. ROSENTHAL: (laughing) - Back up. - Okay, what did you have? - Back up! You're getting too close. - (laughing) ROSENTHAL: Maybe he's not coming home so fast. - I wouldn't want to do it every day, but once a month would be fine. ROSENTHAL: Once a month, you go take a trip? - No, once a month we Skype. ROSENTHAL: (laughing) - Trip? Are you kidding? ROSENTHAL: All right, I'm sending him back because I know the truth: that you two lovebirds can't stay apart for very long. - (laughing) ROSENTHAL: How many years married? - 25 happy years, and out of 56, that's not bad. (laughing) ROSENTHAL: Goodbye! I'll say this about LA: the chefs here have a special bond to each other. They get together socially anyway, but then they band together for these causes, like this one. This one is called Alex's Lemonade and it's for children's cancer research, and it's my favorite event of the year, not just because of the good it does, but because this is some of the best food you'll ever have. Cover me, I'm going in. There's Marc Vetri! You're my first stop. If I see you, I know it will be good. - Mortadella sandwich. Mortadella. ROSENTHAL: Thank you, my friend. - Fresh ricotta, hazelnut honey. It's sweet? It's crazy. ROSENTHAL: What's in here? - Mortadella! Hazelnut honey and ricotta, that's it. ROSENTHAL: Oh my god, that's good. Awesome, I'm gonna go eat everything else now. John Besh from New Orleans, this is a superstar! What do you got today? - This is a little shrimp etouffee with some Andouille sausage and some cream cheese cavatelli. ROSENTHAL: The way to do a food festival is to take a couple bites and share it with other people. But not this one. We've gotta take a bite of this. - It's smoked and then fried, enjoy. ROSENTHAL: Smoked and fried? - And then rolled in honey butter. ROSENTHAL: And then rolled in honey butter? You animals! My god! These other people can go home. - (laughs) ROSENTHAL: Live sea urchins from Santa Barbara, yes? This is a high-ticket item. - The best part is it's indigenous to California and it's, you know, right up the road. The fact that we can just pull it out of the ocean and serve it is pretty awesome. ROSENTHAL: You're literally an ad for California. - Are you gonna have a dog? ROSENTHAL: Pink's Hot Dogs, this is Los Angeles. It's Los Angeles. There's lots of four-star restaurants that I would push aside to get at this. - Oh, boy. ROSENTHAL: You're doing God's work, Mrs. Pink. Ladies, what are you doing? You're selling lemons? - Yes! ROSENTHAL: I'm buying! - Would you like to buy some? ROSENTHAL: I'll do whatever you say! Jesus. Put some clothing on! I've done the entire left side of the menu, hitting the right side. There's no better feeling than giving for charity. - Get ready, my man! ROSENTHAL: What've you got? - You never can have enough beef tongue. ROSENTHAL: What am I having? - Ribollita. Ribollita is pan-fried soup. ROSENTHAL: Smoked Cape Cod blue fish dip. Homemade duck agnolotti! Lamb tongue panini. This looks like porchetta. - It is. ROSENTHAL: Pork wins. - Yeah, good. ROSENTHAL: Look, there's TV's Sean Hayes, and he's helping Ludo! - Hi, Phil! ROSENTHAL: Hi buddy, how are you? - I'm good, I want to talk to you. ROSENTHAL: I want to talk to you, but I don't want you to cut your hand off. You made this? - I made that, what do you think? It's for my new restaurant. ROSENTHAL: Sean's House of Botulism. - Oh, they're right here. ROSENTHAL: Mm! This food festival is a perfect metaphor for my life in L.A. The food is celebratory. It's art and culture and actually has the power to do good. There's nothing more fulfilling than getting to combine all your passions. And I want to show you one more place that's doing amazing work. It's brilliant, it's beautiful, and it's near to my heart. It's just outside Chinatown. It's called the Homeboy Bakery. It was started by Father Greg Boyle, and what it does is very simple. Kids who have been in gangs, who have been in and out of prison their whole lives or otherwise at risk, they bake bread. It's almost biblical. - Amen. (applause) ROSENTHAL: Father Greg and Homeboy offer these young men and women all sorts of help in improving their lives, from educational and medical services to legal assistance and outside job placement. But the Homeboy Bakery, along with the Homegirl Café run by at-risk women, is the group's main public face. This is Phil. What are you making? - Hola. - Cinnamon bread? ROSENTHAL: That looks beautiful. - Okay, Phil, let the master show you how to do this. You've got to have it all the way to the edge... ROSENTHAL: Who the hell are you? - I'm the director of bakery operations. I show them what to do. ROSENTHAL: Some guy comes in and starts... - So let me show you, otherwise if you don't have the cinnamon on the edge, some people don't have cinnamon, they only have the bread. ROSENTHAL: Gotta have it. - So then when you do it, the more rolls the better, and you kind of keep rolling it. ROSENTHAL: Herb Fingerhut knows what he's talking about. He's a seventh-generation baker from Chicago. - There you go, there you go. ROSENTHAL: This is not some charity where they give the kids a kind of remedial job to do. This is a very, very fine bakery. Some of the best restaurants in town want the Homeboy baked goods. Awesome. Come on! Awesome. I met a guy named Vidal, who had been in and out of prison his whole life, and now he's been at Homeboy for eight years. What are you making? - Challah. - We're gonna make stuffed challah, yeah. ROSENTHAL: You're talking my language. One of the things Father Boyle has at the program is tattoo removal. When I came out of jail, I was trying to get a job, you know, because I have a family, and everywhere I would go, they would just see tattoos all over my body, because I used to have tattoos all over my face. ROSENTHAL: You did? - Yeah, all over my face. ROSENTHAL: But look what a job they did. You look at his face, you can't tell he ever had a tattoo on his face. He looks better than I do. - I started from the bottom, I started from maintenance. From maintenance, I went to... I was working in maintenance for two months, then I started doing muffins, and then from there, I started working with the head baker. He was showing me a little bit of everything, and next thing you know, I know how to do everything. ROSENTHAL: You know how to do everything? - Everything. This is like my second family here. ROSENTHAL: Vidal worked his way up to second in command under Herb. - All my friends, the ones that I know since I was a kid, they all passed away, you know? You know, since I got here, I'm a better dad, I'm a better son, I'm a better brother. This place helped me to be a whole different person. ROSENTHAL: The most beautiful thing was I'm rolling out this dough with Vidal and I asked him about his family, and he's got three kids and I asked how they're doing, and he just looked at me and he goes, "My girl's going to college." And you're able to send her to college from this. - From here, yes. ROSENTHAL: What do you have to say? That's... that's everything. That's everything. I'm very involved in the food scene here and I know a lot of these chefs, and the chefs really care about the community and they are a community of caring people. And so this is what you look for I think no matter where you live: a sense of community. Nice to see you! I didn't love this place when I first came because what I saw, you know, wasn't that appealing to me, and I was a bit of a snob coming from New York, I admit it. But there's hidden treasures here. You just have to look a little bit. Very easy to make friends here. Some people play football, baseball, soccer, tennis. This is my sport. Try to keep up.
Info
Channel: PBS Food
Views: 247,944
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: PBS, Cooking, Food, Lifestyle, Travel, LA, LA mexican breakfast, LA farmers market, eggslut, korean food, everybody loves raymond, huckleberry breakfast
Id: TyUqQJrIXlM
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 54min 28sec (3268 seconds)
Published: Tue Dec 19 2023
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