The Golden Rule to Draft Your Own Patterns

welcome to sewveryeasy my name is laura and did you know that your body is mathematically proportioned to itself which means there are parts of our body that are the same or divided into our own body for example our hand is the same size as our face our head is eight times the size of our body the elbow inside to the wrist is the same size as our own foot and if we outstretch our hands from fingertip to fingertip is the height of our body and this is called the golden rule and it has been used for years and it's also used for designing clothing and there has been a company around since 1935 that has developed patterns to this mathematical equations to our own body and it's called the golden rule literal with the system i have made numerous outfits the outfit that i'm wearing and a few others and i'll give you a little fashion show of those later but today i want to make a shirt and i thought this would be a great time to share this system and how it works even if you do not garment construct this is quite fascinating the golden rule does need things like our dressmaker rulers and this set does come with them and with guidelines on how to use them so even a beginner can use these rulers you need a special tape measure it has centimeters on one side and on the other end there's a special ruler that helps us draft out our patterns we do need pins and some markers and the pattern book the pattern book that i did get has 280 patterns right inside this very small binder and it talks about how to use the system and here's that golden rule so in this book i have 280 patterns and all of the patterns in this book are on the back page of each pattern so it doesn't matter what outfit i want the patterns are on the back and the patterns are all around symbols so it doesn't matter what nationality we have we're going to be able to follow the symbols and there is a symbol chart that we're going to be able to use and i'm going to show you all of this as i draft a pattern as you can see in my binder i have lots of tabs and i do this often for books and magazines that i'm reading they're patterns that i want to make or just notes that i want to know exactly where they're at so for today i would like to make this shirt so i'm going to be able to take this pattern out of my book this pattern is number 58 and when i turn it over i can follow pattern 58. now you can use this page on its own but i like to photocopy it and that way i can keep this pattern with the pattern that i'm going to draft out and this is the outfit that i just finished that i'm wearing today so let's take a closer look at this pattern so when i look at the pattern it tells me it's number 58 this little diagram does let me know that it is suitable for a fuller figure but i've made them for even small people and they work out this number nn means it's the blouse so that zed would be the pants and this is the fabric that i'm going to need and this works for an average person so if you need a larger size you can just add a little bit so this is in centimeters but you can always break that down in two yards so i'll be looking at the shirt and i need pattern 58 so there's my pattern 58 the pants and that other shirt so i'm only going to be needing this portion so i'm going to cut this little piece out so this tiny little drawing is going to turn into a pattern and we're going to be able to draft the pattern ourselves and it really is easy to draft these patterns we need the special ruler and the dress making rulers so we can get started and draft this pattern with the centimeter end of the ruler we need to take two measurements and only two measurements we need the widest part of our bust and the widest part of our hips and in my case i'm looking at 96 and a hundred those the only two measurements we're going to need to design these patterns we also need something that we can put some pins into you can use a wool pressing mat or this foam board that you can get in the dollar store so i've taken three of them and have taped them together so that i can reuse them and i'm going to place my paper right on top of this pinnable surface we will be using that special end on the ruler a pin some type of a marker and yes those tiny little patterns so i'm going to cut out one portion and use them one at a time and we are going to need all of those numbers that are pointing into this garment this is the front i have the back and this is the tie and place it into the middle of a big piece of paper and i like to tape this down because i'm going to keep it on this pattern then i'm going to be able to enlarge this pattern right on this extra paper you'll notice along the ruler there are numbers and each number has a hole so for my bust measurement i need to look for number 96 and put that pin right through 96 and where that point of the pin is there's an x on every single pattern and i need to put that pin right where x marks the spot so if you're 88 you're going to use whole 88. if you're 100 you're going to use a hundred whatever your bust measurement is is the hole you are going to use the rest are numbers along the outside and all the numbers are going to be the same it doesn't matter what size you are the adjustment is all coming from where you put this little pin so i'm going to transfer these marks onto this paper so we're going to see a line and sitting on top of that line is a number which is 26.5 i'm going to take this tape measure and have the edge of the tape measure line right up to that straight line then i'm going to smooth out this tape measure so i'm going to find that 26 and a half and put a dot rotate the ruler to the next line it's now 24 smooth out the ruler dot number 24 rotate that ruler it's 24 and a half so i'm going to find the 24 and a half rotate to the next number which is 28 rotate 30.5 that next line is 14 mark 14 and we can see what part we have just finished drawing and those two dots are going to correspond to a dart so anything below the waist i'm going to change to my hip measurement which happens to be a hundred so i have a hundred there i'm going to put it right back in that same x marks the spot my next measurement is 37 and a half so i'll go down mark the 37 and a half 49 and 49 so i'm going to mark all of those dots on the paper that will match that pattern so what i'm doing is i'm blowing up this little pattern into something bigger once all those dots have been transferred i can remove this tape measure from here i'm going to be able to join the dots and it will show me the shape that i have so the first thing i'm going to do is draw this long line from the bottom to the top i'm going to join from one dot coming right to the next dot i have another straight line so i'm going to be able to use a straight ruler and that's that line along the bottom and i'm going to continue and draw any straight lines that i have and you can use any straight ruler so let's duplicate this neck to the neck up at the top so i have two dress making rulers that i'm going to be able to use and there is a guide on where to use those rulers i'm going to do that neck so i'm going to use this area of the ruler so i have a series of dots that i'm just going to be able to follow the dot i'm going to make them larger so you can see them but you don't need large dots for yourself so these dots are going to follow along the edge of the ruler and i can just turn this and keep turning it until all of the dots hit the edge of the ruler so everyone's neck is going to be slightly different but we just need to turn that ruler and once all of those dots hit the ruler i draw the line and that's as simple as it is to use this ruler the next one is the shoulder seam so that will be a straight line so now i will need to do that sleeve i'm following this picture so it gives me a good idea on what to use so i have this top dot at the top of my shoulder and the dot at the end of my sleeve and it just needs a very slight curve and i join up the dots and those two dots are going to make a dart the dart is going to go right into the center where x marked the spot so the one's going to go to the x and that second one will go right to the x so this is going to be a dart i can now finish drawing the side and i'm going to continue doing this slight curve because after all my body is curved it's not straight if you have an area that doesn't look to be smooth we can just smooth out that area what we're looking for is that smooth line you see where we have all of these sketched lines that's telling us to do a facing so we're going to be able to draw a facing out so it's telling me it's three centimeters so here's that curve i'm going to go in three centimeters put a mark do three centimeters on the other side and join those dots on this little pattern we do see a line that line is telling us of the straight of grain so my straight of grain is running right along that edge we can see the dotted line which is the waistline and we have a little number code here which is vm which means the middle of the front and it goes on a fold and now we have that entire pattern piece drawn out and this fits my hip measurements and my bust measurements i'm going to be able to do the same on another piece of paper for the back where each of the dots are are sewing parts that are going to match on the other pattern so i can put those placement marks the patterns are designed with no seam allowance which is perfect because we can add a seam allowance depending on the fabric that we want to use you can add your seam allowance on your paper or add it right onto the fabric i will be adding my seam allowance onto my clothing and that way i can always adjust the seam allowance when i want to reuse this pattern so i'm going to cut out my pattern pieces so i've pinned my pattern pieces onto my fabric using the straighted grain on the pattern pieces to match the straighter grain on my fabric i did add a two inch hem for the bottom a 5 8 seam all the way around i've transferred my marks now i can sew it together so let me sew this together and i'll show you what the garment looks like when it's done so pattern 58 the shirt is now done it does have a removable tie which i could use as a scarf and this particular pattern only had two pieces the front and the back you did need to draft a neck band but all of this can be done with the rulers and a few measurements the symbol page does give us everything we need to know even the straight of grain if we need an elastic if we need to gather it and if you prefer inches you can always do the math to put this into inches so this chart means that these patterns can be used in any language let me show you some of my favorite patterns i did make this outfit and i'm wearing it right now this wrapped shirt is going to look really nice in the summer i love the detail on the side of the pants i did make the jacket and the skirt both of these outfits would be beautiful for traveling in i do like that they've put in some vintage patterns and some classic patterns there's jackets suit jackets lingerie menswear children's wear and if this is not enough four times a year they put out a publication with more patterns and this is the most recent one i love the high-waisted pants this jacket would be great in denim they have some basic t-shirts and some really fun pants you can also get these extra supplements in men and children clothing let me show you some of the clothing i've made this is pattern 69 and 70. it comes with a sleeveless dress nice high collar the addition of these extra bands and a nice big swing jacket now i'm only five foot one so it's very hard for me to find a dress that fits perfect this is exactly how it looks in the book and it fits exactly the way i was hoping it would fit i made a pair of straight legged crepe pants a unlined wool suit with a matching skirt and all along the skirt bottom and the outside of the jacket i did fray that wool put on a big button and some pockets and it's going to be a fun one to wear and today's shirt it has nice starts on the side and because i made it to fit my hips and my top it has a nice shape to it and i can either use this as a belt or use it as a scarf those tiny little patterns on the back of the page are really easy to enlarge and we get to enlarge them to our size that golden rule follows those sizes we place those dots with that special ruler join the dots and we just follow those dots with those curved rulers just keep moving the ruler until you get all of the dots lined up draw it and you're ready to go the system is great for anyone that is a confident sewer and up it doesn't give us the layout of the fabric and it doesn't show us how to put the garments together but once we know those basic steps it's easy to follow along with almost any pattern the additional supplements keep us and after a while we have a lot of patterns that we're going to be able to choose from and if you're anything like me you're going to have a lot of marks in your book i'll put a link in the description so you can check out this system to see if it's something you'd be interested in it's fun being able to draft your own clothing because we can add and take away things that we don't necessarily want and since every pattern i have to buy i have to redraft it anyways i might as well just start with the golden rule thank you for joining me today on sewveryeasy feel free to subscribe and as always come on back let's see what we're talking about next time in the sewing room bye for now

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Keywords: fabric, quilting, quilt, sew, sewing, how to, advice, laura, coia, sew very easy, diy, do it yourself, Do It Yourself (Website Category), Sewing Machine (Product Category), tips, trick, tutorial, free, craft, crafts, crafting, learn, education, educational, teach, teaching, machine, cutting tools, rotary cutter, cutting mat, fabric sissors, Bernina, machines, thread

Id: zD2X23V9bRE

Length: 18min 24sec (1104 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 01 2020