- Hey everybody, welcome
to Custom Fit Adjustments, Make Your Clothing Fit
Better Than Ready to Wear. My name is Jessica Hooley, I am the Owner and Lead
Designer at DIBY Club, the Do It Better Yourself Club, and I'm so pumped to
have you here with me. Let's get to it. (upbeat music) I have a deep rooted, just endless love of teaching
custom fit adjustments. If there's one thing that I
have found immense rewarding in this industry, it is teaching other sewers that they can make their clothing fit them better than anything else they could buy. They can make something that
makes them feel confident and happy and secure
and just 100% on board with their unique shape. And that is really what
custom fitting is all about, to just bring out the best in our wardrobe from what who we really are, not trying to fix who we
are to suit our wardrobe. So I am really excited to
have you here in this class. What we're gonna be covering. First, we're gonna go over
some of the myths about sewing and custom fit adjustments in general. Next, we're gonna have
a little introduction to custom fit adjustments so that you know what exactly
it is I'm talking about. Then we'll have an overview of the most common custom fit adjustments, ones that you will most likely come across in your own sewing. Then how to know when you need to make custom fit
adjustments for your patterns. Then finally, we're going
to have some demonstrations, two quick demonstrations on the two most common
custom fit adjustments that I come across as a pattern designer when we are creating a new pattern and I'm helping all of the sewers get the perfect fit for their clothes. So let's dive right into the myths about custom fit adjustments
and sewing in general. Myth number one, a pattern should fit you
straight out of the envelope. We say envelope, even
though at my business, we sell PDF patterns. But a lot of people
have this misconception that when they buy a pattern, whether it be a PDF pattern
that they put together, or a pattern out of an
envelope from the store that they'll be able to sow
it straight out of the package and it's gonna fit them perfectly without any adjustments at all. Unfortunately, this type of
thinking sets a lot of people up for upset and mistakes. And really it's a
deflating myth out there. I really hate this myth. Because just like ready to wear designers, people that design, pattern designers work with standards, averages and sizing, standards in height, just different things that are based on average measurements. They are not made to fit
your unique, wonderful shape. So it really is damaging to think that you should fit into something straight out of the envelope without making any consideration for your own unique style,
shape, needs, et cetera. It's gonna make you feel like either A, there's something
wrong with your body because it doesn't fit in this average, or B, there's something
wrong with your sewing, you just must not be good
enough to make your own clothes. And those are just
horrible, horrible things that are not true that can be fixed by just knowing the special
things you have to do for your own particular needs. Myth number two, you have
a size, you are a size. This myth has come from the really standardization of clothing as people have manufactured clothing and really drilled into
our society's minds of the idea that we all are a size, I am a size 12, or a
size 20, or a size two. When in reality these
sizes are once again, based on averages. And most of us do not fit within one size. So we will be going over how
to address that a little later. But if you have felt that you are odd because you don't fit in a
size, you are not odd at all, most of us don't just have one size. Myth number three, all independent pattern designers work with the same
standardized measurements. Now, this is one I've come across a lot because as people purchase
my patterns at diby.club, or otherwise, they'll come in and ask, "How do I make this
custom fit adjustment?" And someone will come in and say, well, all pattern designers draft independent pattern designers draft to either the ASTM measurements or to a B cup size for bust adjustments. Anytime you're making a generalization about how something is
drafted or measured, you are usually incorrect. Every single designer uses
their own sizing chart, uses their own standard measurements, uses their own cup sizes, everything is just dependent on what the designer wants to do and where they get their
particular measurements from. It can be measurements that
they just take on their own and decide this is how I wanna
structure my own patterns, or they can come from
standardized sets of measurements, but either which way, it is
not the same across the board, you are not in a size small
in one designer's patterns, and therefore you are a small
in everybody's patterns. Myth number four is that if
you are making a knit garment, you do not need custom fit adjustments because knits stretch. This one drives me a
little bit extra crazy because we have become a
society of knit garment where it's very, very comfortable, it is fun to sow with, we have more access to knit
fabrics than we ever have. And it's made us feel really lazy about how we can sow with it that we don't need to take as much care because it can be stretched. It can stretch around our body and so that just takes
care of the fitting need. And there's nothing
further from the truth. If you start off sewing with knits and not making custom fit adjustments, and then you learn how to make them and then make that
adjustment for yourself, you're going to feel the difference, you will be more comfortable. It's not just about looks. Of course, it will look
nicer when you eliminate some of these draglines
and other indicators of a poorly fitting garment. But really ultimately it's
about how it makes you feel. It's gonna look nicer, it'll lay nicer, and most importantly, it will
feel the most comfortable. And the last myth is that
custom fit adjustments just aren't worth the effort. I wouldn't be doing this
class if I believe this myth. I cannot count the amount of
times I have taught someone how to make a specific
custom fit adjustment for their body type and they came back to me and said, "Oh my gosh, I can't believe
I haven't been doing this "this whole time, I feel amazing." It's always worth the effort to feel amazing in your clothes. Okay, now, let's just cover
what custom fit adjustments are. If you are not familiar
with custom fit adjustments, these are adjustments that you make to be considerate of your
own shape, size, or style. So if you have a larger whatever,
bust, hip, waist, whatever than your average size, then you make that
adjustment for yourself. Maybe you have wider shoulders, maybe you have narrower shoulders, maybe you're taller than average, maybe you're shorter than average, maybe you have a booty pop, maybe you have a flatter bum, maybe you have maybe, maybe, maybe, there are a million different ways that our bodies can be shaped. We are all unique. Even if you're the same size, you can be a different
shape than somebody else. And custom fitting your clothing takes all of that into consideration so that the clothing you make is really bringing out
the best in who you are. And what could be more
appropriate than that. Now, let's go ahead and cover some of the most common
custom fit adjustments. Some of these might be relevant to you, some of them might not, but that's the whole point
about custom fitting. So I'm going to use my mannequin here to describe what it is exactly that would warrant the
custom fit adjustment that I'm talking about. So the first one we're
gonna be talking about is size mapping, also known as Grading. Grading can be used in a
couple of different ways, but it's been like used as a slang term for this custom fit adjustment. So if we have a body
here that is a size 20 at the high bust. Then let's say we're
a 20 at the full bust, but maybe a 26 at the waist, and then a 24 at the hip, this would be a perfect scenario in which you would need to
grade or size map your pattern. Meaning that we're going
to be cutting the pattern along three different
sizes, the 20, 26 and 24. If you are outside of maybe
like four sizes in difference between these locations, you might be looking at a
different sort of adjustment, but if you're within four sizes at these different locations, it's pretty safe to just
do the Grading method. And this is the one of
the custom fit adjustments that I will be
demonstrating in this class. The next most common custom fit adjustment is a height adjustment. DIBY Club patterns are drafted for a five foot, five tall individual for the women's patterns. It's different for the men's, and of course, for the children's. But every single pattern you are sewing should give you an indication, should tell you what the
standardized height is for the pattern that
how it's been drafted. So if this individual is taller or shorter than five foot five, and they're sewing at DIBY Club pattern, they are going to need to
make a height adjustment custom fit adjustment. The next most common custom fit adjustment is a full bust adjustment. Full bust, meaning the
breast, the bust area is a fuller or a larger
size than the upper bust. So we're talking upper bust
being right under the armpits and the full bust at the
fullest part of the bust. A lot of people make the mistake of sewing the upper part of the pattern at the full bust size. If they are a larger size in the full bust than the high bust. Meaning if this individual
is a size 20 at the high bust and a 24, beginner sewists might be inclined to just sow the entire top at 24, so that it fits the full bust. If you make this mistake, you're gonna find it really baggy, really loose in the shoulders,
in the neck, in the arms, everything up here that you
really want to fit nicely, it's gonna be really loose. So instead of doing it that way, we cut out the pattern at the size 20, and then we do what's called
a full bust adjustment to make room for the fuller bust. Another really common
custom fit adjustment is what's called a sway back adjustment. So I'm gonna go ahead
and turn my mannequin to the side here. And if you happen to have a booty that comes out a little farther than what the pattern is drafted for, you might find yourself needing what's called the sway back adjustment, where basically the bum
protrudes out farther than the waistline. So this is a really great example where you might be the same size as someone that doesn't
need this adjustment, but a different shape. So if your full hip is,
let's say 50 inches, but maybe it comes out, it's distributed more evenly
around the entire body, you might not need a sway back adjustment. But if a lot of that girth
comes out at the back, then you might see some
gaping at the low back here, which is what would be an indicator of needing the sway back adjustment. So this is one that can come, whether you're doing tops or bottoms, because anywhere where you
got the bum and the waistline, you might need the sway back adjustment. Shoulder adjustments. If you have broader shoulders than what the pattern is drafted for, you might need to make a
wide shoulder adjustment, which is just adding a
little bit more length out on the top shoulder here. Or maybe you need a
narrow shoulder adjustment where you're finding that your clothes are drooping-off the shoulder, maybe your shoulder seam is
coming down off the shoulder more than it's supposed to, so in that situation, you would do a narrow shoulder adjustment. Some other common ones
are full tummy adjustments where you would just add
a little bit more space for more protrusion in
the front of the stomach. This is something that I find
is more common and relevant for women who have had children as the abdomen muscles of separate a bit, that's something I've come
across a lot in that situation. But it can just be part of
your shape too and that's fine, that's something you can
absolutely accommodate for. And then the bust adjustments are, as we talked about with the full bust, you can have a small bust adjustment, other things like that. We also have rise adjustments. If you are sewing pants, there
are a lot of different shapes to our crutches and our bums
than you would anticipate, so don't be concerned if you
need to make some adjustments for your particular rise
shape, length, et cetera. Now, when you hear all this, if you are new to custom fitting, this can feel really overwhelming, like how can I know what to do? There are a few different
ways you can find indicators. The first one is how it feels. It's very obvious. If it's really tight in the shoulders and it's uncomfortable or in the bust, you know you have to
make an adjustment there. If we're getting a camel toe
when you're wearing your pants, you know you gotta make
an adjustment there. So step one is always
just, how does this feel? Next thing you wanna look
for are visual indicators of an unnecessary adjustment. So one of the biggest ones are draglines. So if you get gathering a fabric in places that you shouldn't or pooling
in places that you shouldn't, maybe you get bagginess around the knees when you're making pants, maybe you get some weird folds around the bust in your shirt, any place where you see how this pattern is supposed to be fitting, and you're getting odd
locations of fabric, that's how you know that you need to make some sort of an adjustment. So you can obviously go online and find several different tutorials for these different adjustments. The nice thing about DIBY
Club Patterns, my patterns, is that we include many custom
fit adjustment tutorials in the pattern directions. So if you are curious about
how to make some of these and you feel like you
need a little handholding, go to diby.club, click on Patterns, and we have what is called the Anything But Basic Sewing Collection, these are free patterns. We have a Tee-shirt and some leggings and a few other things
that you might enjoy. And when you get these patterns, you don't only get the pattern, but you get the instructions that include these
custom fitting tutorials. They do include rise adjustments, we include full bust adjustments,
Grading, height adjusting, all sorts of things. Even the shoulders and a few of the less common custom
fitting adjustments, you're gonna find tutorials in there to teach you how to do these things so you can practice, and they're free, so you
really have nothing to lose. Another way to know whether you need certain custom fitting adjustments are just by looking at the information that the pattern maker has given you. And by this, I mean the size chart and the finished garment measurements. These are the size charts and
finished garment measurements for the Anything but
Basic Tee by DIBY Club. And just by seeing how your measurements fit against the size chart can
give you a lot of information about what kind of adjustments
you might need to make. So if you are using the Misses
file in a DIBY Club Pattern, and you notice that you
have a size six upper bust, a size 10 full bust, and a size eight waist and high hip, you already know that
there are going to be at least two custom fit
adjustments that you need to make. The first one would be
the full bust adjustment because your upper bust is a size six and your full bust is a size 10. Since your full bust is larger
than your upper bust size, that is the indicator you need to know to make the full bust adjustment. You also had a different
size for your waist and your high hip, the size eight. So now you know that you'll
need to do some Grading. You're gonna have to go
between size six and size eight for to make comfortable room
in the waist and the hips. Another thing to consider other than the circumference measurements are the height measurements. So we have, at the DIBY Club,
we show you the total height, the sleeve length, and the inseam that we draft for for all of our patterns in the women's line. So for the women's line, we have a total height of
five foot, five inches. So if you are a five foot eight person, using the women's patterns, you know that you need to add
some height for your pattern so that it fits you appropriately
because the pattern as is, is drafted for someone that's
three inches shorter than you. So that's how you can
just get a very analytical high-level view of a few
custom fit adjustments that you can just count on having to make. Another thing to consider is, are the finished garment measurements. Every pattern you get, whether
it be a DIBY Club Pattern or otherwise should include some finished garment measurements. These are the exact dimensions of how the different sizes should measure once they are sewn. In a few different locations, we have our full bust,
finished garment measurement, our waist, or bicep, or full hip, sleeve length and the bodice length. These are all things that
measurements that are included with this particular pattern. So let's say that I typically
have a larger bicep. Maybe perhaps when I'm sewing my clothing, I find that it's very
uncomfortable in the bicep, it's always too tight, what I can do is check these
finished garment measurements for my size. And let's say I'm a size 22, and I check to see what the circumference finished measurement is for the bicep, and I can see here it's 15 inches. Then I can have someone else
help me measure my bicep and see how much ease or
how much room there will be between my bicep and this finished bicep. So if my bicep happens to be 17 inches and this finished bicep is only 15", then I can know from that point that I'll want to make
a custom foot adjustment for that particular
location on the pattern. So using the finished garment measurement to check the comfort of things,
check the length of things, check for things that you have
a personal preference for, this is a really, really
great way to do that. Maybe this particular pattern is intended to hit you at the high hip, but you just don't like clothing that hits you at the high hip, maybe you want it to
hit you at the full hip, you can use the finished
length measurements and a plethora of different measurements in the finished garment measurements to make the determination
of how you wanna adjust it before you even start. So it really gives you
a nice little headstart with a very calculated approach so that you aren't wasting too much energy or time on these things. Now, before we get into the demonstration of a few of the most common
custom fit adjustments, I wanna talk about one of
the most underutilized, underappreciated, yet
most powerful tools to use when custom fitting your some clothes, clothing, and that is Muslins. If you don't know what a muslin is, it is a tester version of your clothing, your sewing pattern. So when you buy a new pattern or new Tee, you've never made this before, and you really like it, do not, do not grab that beautiful fabric that you envision this pattern in where you're like, "Oh my
gosh, this dress is amazing. "I have the perfect fabric for
it, let's cut it out and go." Huge mistake because you don't know how this particular garment
is going to feel on you. It looks great on the models, it looks great on the other fit testers, but you have your own unique
needs, your own unique shape, your own unique style, so you need to give
yourself the opportunity to give it a test run. The best way to do this is to have on hand a few things for muslin sewing. Whenever you find yourself available to some really cheap fabric that is similar to fabric types
that you like to sow with, so for example, I went to a big-box store and I found a whole roll of
really ugly jersey knit fabric, but it was on sale for a buck 50 a yard because nobody wanted this stuff. Perfect opportunity for muslin fabric. I bought the whole bolt and I've been using that to create muslins for my knit garments. So the point of the muslin
is to create a first version that is not intended to be worn really. The intent for a muslin is to identify your custom fit adjustment needs for this particular pattern. If you have an issue with
the waist of sewing a muslin, all you have to do, what I like to do is, you have a a couple of options,
two options that I know of and there might be others, well, actually we can do three. First, you can always
repurpose your fabric. If you can keep a scrap pile, these types of things are
great for other muslins, maybe you can fit new sleeves
out of the old sleeves, or maybe you were making a smaller pattern for a child or something, or maybe you can use it for stuffing, and like a doggy bed or any number of things, or dolls, you can use this remnant fabric, this leftover not-needed
fabric for other things. So that's your first option. Another thing you can do is
just have some tags on hand. This is what I do, I
keep some tags on hand because I donate my muslins when I'm done. It might not be something that I like, but it can be something
that someone else can wear. And most places will
accept handmade clothing for donations if you put tags on them. So that is my preferred method. Another thing you can do is, there are retailers out there,
I know H&M is one of them, but there are some others
that accept textiles to be recycled. So really just do a Google
search and see what's around you and how you can recycle that fabric. So those are some ways to
make muslin sewing enjoyable, and are responsible for you if that's something
that's important to you. Another thing that you can do
when you are sewing a muslin to make it something that
you don't want to avoid, because a lot of people feel
like they're wasting time when they're sewing a tester version. It could not be further from the truth because you are saving yourself
an immense amount of time and money when you're ready
to do the final version. But if you wanna save some more time, you can always baste stitch
your muslin together. You don't need to worry about
doing all the top stitching, you don't need to worry
about doing all the options, let's say you're doing a pair
of pants, skip the pockets, skip all the extra stuff. The only important thing
that we're looking for when sewing a muslin is the fit. We're trying to see, okay,
when I do this for real, what do I need to look out for? What needs to be adjusted for, whether it's a rise adjustment, a shoulder adjustment,
arm adjustment, anything, you just wanna make sure
that it's gonna fit you how you want it to fit you when you are using the good stuff, the stuff that really matters. So now we're gonna do the fun part, which is actually doing a couple of these custom fit adjustments. I'm going to be demonstrating
these adjustments using the Anything but Basic
Tee-shirt, the Women's Tee. You can get this for free
at diby.club, D-I-B-Y.club and follow along with me. I'm going to be doing a Grading tutorial and a height adjusting tutorial. These are the two most
common custom fit adjustments that I come across. Almost everybody has to make one or both of these custom fit adjustments when they are sewing for themselves. If you are wondering how to
make these adjustments to pants, I recommend going to the website and downloading the
Anything but Basic Leggings. And you'll see that the
technique is very much the same, but if you just wanna see it illustrated on a pair of pants, it does come, a tutorial does come with the Anything but Basic Leggings, so you can see it in action on there. Let's go ahead and talk about the tools that you want to have on hand to successfully make your
custom fit adjustments. You'll want to make sure
that you have some tape, some scissors that you are
okay to cut paper with, a measuring tool of some sort, I really like using my
seam gauge for this. A couple of different colored markers. These come in handy when you
need to draw multiple lines to make your adjustments so
that you know which is which. And then lastly, a straight edge. I really like to use my quilters ruler because it's nice and long. So I can just count on having the length that I need to make the
appropriate straight edge lines. Okay, let's go ahead and
start the Grading tutorial. This is the Anything but Basic Women's Tee as I had mentioned before. When you are Grading, the
first thing you'll want to do is use the layers feature in your pattern. All DIBY Club Patterns have what's called the Printable Layers Feature. So you can choose to only print the sizes that you will be using. If you're using a paper
pattern out of an envelope, this is obviously not an option, but most PDF patterns do
have this option for you. So I have printed sizes six
through 12 as an example for this demonstration. So the first thing we need to do is identify what sizes we are. For the sake of this tutorial, I'm going to say... Oops, my size chart. I am going to say that I am
a size six in the upper bust. So we'll circle that. A size six in the full bust, a size, let's say a size 10 in the waist, and a size eight in the
high hip and the full hip. Now that we have identified what sizes we'll be Grading between, we need to make some
markings on our pattern. So we said we are a size
six for the upper bust. So I'm just gonna go ahead and start on the back bodice here for you. I'm gonna make a little dot at size six for the upper bust, and the full bust. Now I'm a size 10 at the waist. So my waist location line is down here, I'm gonna go ahead and
put a dot on the size 10. And I'll go ahead and write
the sizes for you here, so you can see. So we have six, six, 10. And then we went with the size eight for the high hip and full hip. So I'm gonna make a marking,
a dot for size eight on the high hip, and eight on the full hip. You know what, let's mix things up. Let's do a 12 on the full hip, just so you can really
see how this is possible. Now that we have the spots
marked on our pattern, it's really as simple
as connecting the dots. But we need to make sure that
we connect the dots in a way that is not only consider of
the sizes, but very smooth, and needs to hit these points
in a way that it doesn't bulge or create sharp pivots. It is smooth, smooth, smooth, smooth is the number one goal
for this exercise right now. If your lines are rigid or
bumping out very abruptly, that's going to show in
your finished garment. When in doubt, smooth it out. That's what you say to yourself. So I'm gonna start, and you can do this with a French ruler, but you don't need it. I have one, but I wanna
do this without one so you can see that you don't need it. I'm gonna start by drawing in my size six. Now, we need to come out to the size 10. So instead of following our
size six down, down, down, and then bumping out to our size 10, we need to create a smooth
and gradual transition. So very carefully, coming out to the size 10, see? So much better than a bump at the waist. Now we need a pull her back in to the size eight for the high hip. Same thing, I'm actually
gonna come up here to create smoothness from the top, bring it in nice and easy to the eight. Just like that. Now, I gave us a tricky one on purpose. We need to come out to the size 12. That's two sizes out. It's a little ambitious, but it happens. So in this situation, once again, I'm gonna start up here so that I can create a
smooth path for myself, work my way out to the size 12, and there we have it. So we have gone from a six to a 10, to an eight, to a 12. If you are not familiar
with this technique, you might look at this and
feel very uncomfortable. You could say, "That looks
weird, that looks horrible. "How on earth is this gonna fit me?" But I promise it's gonna fit
you a heck of a lot better than just making an average size. This is a very common
type of Grading path here. A lot of people have, it's not uncommon to come out two sizes
at a particular spot. Now, what I'm asking you to
do is have a little faith. So hold up like this, see
how it fits with your muslin, and then make adjustments where needed. You might find that you need
to adjust your curves slightly, and that's not a big deal. But the point is, is
starting out with this is going to give you a better
way more accurate baseline than sewing an average size. So this will fit you well in the hip, it'll give you this space
you need at the waist, and it also give you the shaping and structure that you
want at the upper body and in the high hip. So then we would come
over to the front bodice and do the same thing. So I'll mark size six on
the high bust and full bust. We did a 10 at the waist, an eight at the high hip
and a 12 at the full hip. Once again, making nice, smooth transitions between the sizes. And it's really that simple. So now let's go ahead and
cut this out and hide adjust. (upbeat music) Now we're gonna go ahead and
look at height adjusting. I'm going to be demonstrating
how to both lengthen, so add length and remove length, but obviously, you would just
be doing the same adjustment to both the front and the back side. So I'm gonna go ahead
and shorten the back one and lengthen the front one. Let's start with the front bodice. So let's say that I am five foot eight. And the pattern is drafted for somebody that's five foot five. That is a difference of three inches. Now, DIBY Club patterns in the instructions we'll give you some very direct calculations for making accurate lengthening
or shortening adjustments. But let's say the pattern
that you're working with does not provide you with that, we can use what's like a cheat method to make this adjustment determination. And we're just gonna say,
if you're doing a shirt, which is approximately about
half of your body length from the hip upwards, we're just gonna divide
this difference in half. So that brings us to a
difference of an inch and a half. So that's how much length
we're going to be adding into this bodice piece here. Now, the natural tendency
might to just be add to that inch and a half at the hemline, and that's the incorrect
way to make this adjustment. Instead, our height is distributed throughout our entire body, so we want to distribute our adjustment through the body as well. So how we're gonna do this is start by cutting the pattern in
two different locations. I like to cut it between
the full bust in the waist and right about at the high hip. This pretty well divides
your pattern into thirds. It's gonna give you a
little bit more on the top, but this is a good way to
distribute this change. Now, we have two different spots that we are distributing
this height adjustment of an inch and a half. So I'm gonna divide that by two, which gives us three quarters
of an inch or 0.75 inches that we need to be
adding in both locations. Now, I'm gonna grab my extra paper and start by taping the bottom
piece to my extra paper. We're using this extra paper because since we are adding
length, there's going to be... We're going to need some
paper to back this adjustment. Now I'm gonna grab my seam gauge and set it to that three
quarters of an inch, come to that top edge
of my bottom piece here and just make a couple
of markings on this paper That are up 0.75 inches. Now grabbing my middle piece
and I'm going to align it with some markings I just
made making sure to have it be even along this edge here so that we are on off center like this. And then we will tape this in place. Now, to save paper, I'm gonna go ahead and trim this down. And then repeat the process. So I'm taping the top
edge of this middle piece to my extra paper. Mark up the three quarters of an inch. Then tape my top piece. Finally, I'll grab my straight edge and clean up these edges here. Now, down here, it's not
quite perfectly smooth to do it with the straight edge, so I'm just gonna be trimming off, there's like 132nd of an
inch on this top piece here that I'm going to have to trim off. And then let's cut down the extra paper. Now, after you've trimmed this down, you have the option to go ahead and trace your whole pattern
piece on to a new paper, or you can do what I do and
just tape the back piece on. If you put some tape on the back here, it really will stay just fine, especially if you're using
some thicker pattern paper like I am. All right, there we go. Now, let's go ahead and
shorten our back bodice. So let's say that I am five feet tall. Pattern is drafted for someone 5'5", which means that we have a difference of negative five inches. Using a quick math, we're gonna go ahead and divide that by two, which gives us a two and
a half inch difference. Now, we're going to distribute that between the two locations, which when you divide that by two, it gives us a difference of
1.25 inches in both locations. Now, this is a pretty significant
adjustment for two spots. If you are doing this math and you find that you are
upwards of 1.25 inches on your adjustment, I usually like to distribute
it in three sections. So if you find that dividing it into your one and a half inches, go ahead and distribute
it between three spots so that you don't have as
much of an abrupt shift in the two locations. All right, so just like before, we're gonna go ahead and
cut at our high hip location and between the full bust and the waist. Those are my preferred spots. And let's go ahead and
start with this top piece. I'm going to move my seam gauge down to an inch and a quarter and mark up from the
bottom edge by that much. Now, I'll take my middle piece and we're overlapping
because we're shortening now. So overlap it up to that
edge and tape it down. And then repeat it on the
bottom edge of the middle piece. Go ahead and mark up
an inch and a quarter. Match up our bottom section and tape it in place. Now, once again, you're
gonna wanna make sure that your edges are nice and smooth. If I were to zoom in,
you'd see that I have about almost an eighth
of an inch right here that's just sticking out. So I'm gonna go ahead
and just trim that down. It's a very, very small piece of paper that you'll wanna make
sure that that's smooth. Okay, so now we have our
height adjusted pattern pieces. You'll see how, if I align these at the base of my arms side here, and just move 'em up for you to see, you'll see how that height adjustment has made such a big difference
in how this pattern is shaped depending on whether you
are the shorter person or the taller person, but that's really what's so beautiful about these custom fit
adjustments is that, we have the same pattern here, but it's gonna fit these two
different people perfectly because we've made these adjustments. Obviously, if you're the shorter person, you would make this adjustment on both the back and the front. If you were the taller person, you would make this adjustment on both the front and the back so that they match up perfectly. All right, y'all, we made it. I hope that this class has
really given you the confidence to explore the world of custom fitting. I hope that it's given
you a better understanding of what custom fitting really means and how it can be applied
to your hobby of sowing. I hope that you learned something
from the two most common custom fitting to adjustment demos of Grading and height adjusting, and that you can bring that
into your garment making. And I want you to take
this a step further, go to diby.club, make sure and download the two or there's over a dozen free patterns. But the two patterns that
I mentioned in this class, the Anything but Basic Women's Tee and the Anything but
Basic Women's Leggings, we also have the Anything
but Basic Men's Tee and Children's Tee if
you are looking to sow for those two categories as well. When you get these patterns,
you're going to be introduced to many other custom fit
adjustments as I mentioned before. If you are needing a full bust adjustment, we have a tutorial for that. If you need some rise adjustments, we have tutorials for that. Everything that you need to
really dive into this world of custom fitting is available with our patterns at diby.club. I hope you enjoyed this class
and I'll catch you next time. Bye bye. Oh, no, maybe nobody will like the class. Yes, we'll see. Hello, my name is Jessica. This lighting is fabulous. It makes me look 10 years younger, or not. When I zoom in, it's not as much, not so much. Bye bye. And don't forget to have fun. (upbeat music)
