The BEST (and WORST) Leather Pocket Styles

hey everybody so today we're gonna do a whole video about wallet pockets and the different types of wallet pockets you can make um we have patterns there's a bunch of different patterns um some are on our website there's one that we're going to use it's free on weaver's website so if you want to try any of this stuff links will be in the description let's get into it the first style pocket we're going to talk about is the very popular tea pocket and it's called the tea pocket because it's shaped like a tea so the way that these work is we have our base layer and this could be a full wallet it could be one with a hidden pocket we put one pocket down we stitch across the bottom then we put our second pocket down and that t part kind of locks in so that we're only ha getting one layer of leather along our seams so let's put this together and go through it so when we're making pockets an optional step that you might choose to take is to skive down some of the parts of the pocket that aren't going to be seen they're going to be below the seam of the pocket above them and we do this to remove bulk and just make the wallet sit a little bit more flat now you don't have to do this if you use thin enough leather two three ounces i'm using a three ounce leather here but i'm still going to do a little bit of skiving so i can show you where on the tea pocket that you want to skive the most common places on a teapot to skive are going to be along the base right here and down the sides and you have to be careful with this i know i made a line but usually i just kind of freehand it and if you take off a little bit of the edge you ideally don't want to do that but it's okay because you're going to have another pocket over it now another way that you can skive this is we can take our tea pocket and this is if you're using like a little bit of a thicker leather i'm going to take some dividers here and i'm going to set my dividers for the width of my tee and they don't like going that big but we can convince them then what i'm going to do is i'm going to run a little bit of a line following if your pocket's curved following the curve if it's flat it would obviously just be flat then i take my french edger and this is basically you have your skivving knife this is more of a pushing removing weight from the inside of a piece of leather and what you can do is you can actually skive this entire thing now i don't know if this is sharp enough for this thin leather but we're going to try it um yeah so see we're getting there and you want to just go slow with these and make sure they're sharper than this one is and we're going to use that line that we made and we're just going to push away from it and when we do this what we're doing is we're removing all of the bulk from below the exposed part of this piece of leather you see and so when we have our tea pocket and we put our second tea pocket above it it's full thickness right up to here and then because we used our dividers it drops down in thickness under it to keep the bulk down so there are a lot of different ways to assemble a pocket bank with tea pockets i'm going to show you the way that i do it the first thing i do is i glue the tabs on my pockets and then i've also in at least in our patterns we always include a talk pocket guide and that's a little piece that you put on your bank the i don't know what you would call that the back pocket support pocket thing and it allows you to mark where the top of your top pocket goes so that you get everything laid out evenly i've gone ahead and done that on our main body piece here so you see i have my marks here so what i'm going to do is i'm just going to take a little bit of glue and i'm going to glue from there down not all the way because then we're going to glue around for our bottom pocket after and you might notice that i'm not gluing the bottoms of the pockets and i just personally i don't glue them i just glue the tabs and then i stitch the bottom but you can glue them if you want you can make your markings and glue it all in that way too if you want once our glue is tacky we're ready to glue these in so what we're going to do first is take our top pocket we're going to line that up and at least in our pockets you're going to have some overhang here that's to account for any different thickness leathers you might be using we stick that down there stick that down there i like to give it a little tap with my hammer and then we have our dividers here and i'm just going to do a little line along the bottom and that's going to be my stitch line so now we're going to punch that so you can sew all the way across because this is just a demonstration i'm just going to do a few stitches and to be honest with you you can do this and it'll hold just fine for years and years as well once that's done we can install our second pocket and we're just going to butt that up to that t push it in stick it down and we want we don't want any gaps here you can have gaps after that's our trim allowance but we don't want any gaps down there and for these if you want you can use bone folder really get in there and stick it down nice there we go no gaps so i'm not going to bore you with the rest of it but you know we'd do the same thing we'd stitch across the bottom and then we would glue in our top pocket and that is how you get yourself a tea pocket pocket bank the next one we're going to do is an overlapping pocket now these look like tea pockets because partially they're cut out like tea pockets but if you look at the size of our back piece you'll notice that the t's are all trim allowance so what we're going to end up with is a pocket that overlaps the pocket above it and the way we do this is a little bit more skiving and it's really hard to do these style pockets without skiving at all that's kind of how they're designed to be done so i have my dividers set for the width that i want the pocket to show above the other pocket right and what i'm going to do is similar to the last pocket i'm going to start by tracing a line along the top that's going to be the visible part of the pocket below it we need to remove some material so i'm going to go down on both sides and then i'm going to go down across the bottom and that'll remove some bulk now remember just like our tea pockets if you want to take your french edger and simply skive all of this down you can we've already showed you how to do that i'm going to show you how to do the selective skiving on an overlapping pocket so i like to use a combination of a french edger and my skiving knife when i'm removing bulk on an overlapping pocket i use the french edger pretty much just for our little overlapping spot and this is all personal preference if you can do this all with a skivving knife and you're comfortable with it by all means go for it so we'll remove that first and then we'll remove this i just sharpen these and it's not working but good enough then i take my skiving knife and i do more of a standard skive like i would on a tea pocket there we go and now it's not the prettiest thing because i am not the best with a french edger and that french edger should have been a little more sharp but there we go so now what's going to happen is when we turn this over we're going to have a very obvious line here and then our overlapping pocket is going to sit right in that little space that we skive down so this is going to kind of disappear it's going to be there but you're not going to see it underneath the pocket on top of it so this looks very similar to our tea pockets but it is a bit different so we have to remember grab a pen that all of this is trim allowance so we want to make sure when we glue that we're gluing inside of this trim allowance here because it's all going to be cut off pretty much so when we go to glue i do glue the trim allowance for sure because you sometimes use a little bit of it but you want to focus on the part inside of the trim allowance because that's going to be the part that's actually sticking to your pocket bank body situation i'm going to do that on both and then we're going to go over and do the same thing we did on our last one with our pocket bank piece and we're just going to glue down the side a bit and again this is the this specific pattern is free on weaver's website it'll be in the first link in the description um we're doing one less pocket than the pattern comes with but it has a top pocket guide that you can print out cut out and it'll show you exactly where to put your top pocket so installing our first pocket on this overlap is very similar to doing the tea pocket the only difference is we want to make sure that we get remember this is all trim allowance we want to make sure that we line up this corner here as best we can with the edge because we're not really looking to have this trim allowance as part of our piece it's just a little extra just in case so i'm going to be real careful about that and center it and then stick it down and again i'm going to use my bone folder on this one because we really want to kind of massage that skived part in and press down because we want our second pocket to fit into that little notch there and unlike the tea pocket you're going to see that this actually will end up being stuck way down under the second pocket and that's one of the benefits to this style pocket because a lot of the times if you if you sew pockets like uh like the t-style pockets you'll know that when you're laying your stitch line you want to make sure let me get my stitching chisel here you usually want to make sure that you're not getting a stitch right in the middle there right because it once you stitch it it'll kind of pull the pockets apart it won't look that great when you do an overlap pocket like this it doesn't really matter i mean you want to try you want your stitching to look neat but if you end up with a stitch right there it's not really going to do much because you have all of this material underneath it and everything is going to lay nice and flat so in that respect that's one of the benefits of doing this style pocket even though it is a little more work and now once we're done of course i'm doing this kind of sloppy just to show you um we're going to do the same thing we're going to do a stitch across the bottom so we'll take our calipers here we'll lay a little stitch line and again i'm only going to do one punch because this is just um sort of an exhibition thing for the video so one of the main differences comes to when it's time to put the next pocket on our pocket bank of this overlap style pocket you can see i've used my calipers to mark and these are the other calipers that i have that are set to this line right here that is going to be the exposed part of these pockets i've used that to mark on the corners here where i want the top of our next pocket to land and i've done that because as you can see we have our glue line here but we've laid new leather on top so we need to kind of rough this up a little bit and add a little extra glue because our new pocket is going to sit on top of this and be stuck to it now once our glue is dry and we go to set our second pocket on top of our first pocket you can see that we're going to get our overlap here but because we skived everything down it's still going to lay fairly flat and you can go even more serious with the skivving too there we go and now i'm not gonna put this whole pocket together but you would see that our third pocket would lay over top there and we would still get a nice flat seam here but i want to show you that when we trim off our seam allowance you'll see that they're not actually tea pockets at all whereas right here you can see that we have this t notch here these are all laying flat and then coming in to remove some bulk and when we go to put our stitch line in we can butt that right up against the top of the second pocket and we don't have to worry about splitting a seam like this because there is no seam it overlaps so those are the two big differences with the t pocket and the overlapping pocket now i do have one last type of pocket to show you and we call them the lazy pocket the lazy pocket doesn't really use any pockets at all it uses one piece of leather sandwiched to another piece of leather and i've laid out slits every half inch and what we're going to do is we're going to punch some holes we're going to cut these slits and the idea is that your pocket will slide into the slits now let's get that done and we'll show you why that's not such a great idea so first glance the lazy pocket looks cool it's slim it takes very little time to actually make but the problem that you've run into is if you do it like this a this is the piece of leather right so it's just not great and then when you slide cards in the idea is that you put one there and you put one here etc etc now there is one exception to this rule if you are going to sew in nylon pockets to every um sled slot go for it that's a normal way to make wallets but a lot of times you'll see pieces made that are just like this and that's the card bank and if you do it this way the minute that you push this down the card's gone like you either have to super stretch this out to reach down and imagine this is all stitched up to reach it or it's just kind of stuck there and so that's why we call these lazy pockets because functionally speaking they just don't work really well or at all i don't mean to step on any toes every once in a while you'll see a design with like a single one and that might be okay but when you have a bank like this i would highly suggest that you don't go this route and take the time to make a proper stacked card slot bank because this is going to function way better you're going to learn a lot more by learning how to skive and keeping the thickness down this is just not going to result in a piece that functions well over time and so here we go we have three of the most popular styles of pockets to make in leather wallets and carry goods i hope that our explanations kind of walked you through how to do some of them we have our overlap our tea pocket and then of course the infamous lazy pocket if you want to try these two we don't have a pattern for this but if you want to try either of these this wallet this pattern will be free on weaver's website first link in the description and i'll link our nine pocket and eleven pocket uh with the t pocket design this is mostly what we do um and everything is sized for the five millimeter you can do four or three two but we we like to use the five millimeter stitching cheese chisels that weaver carries so if you're using a five millimeter stitching chisel you won't have to worry about running into this um this putting a stitch line right in the middle of a joint it's all sized to overlap so thank you guys so much and we'll see in the next one you

Channel: Corter Leather

Views: 132,387

Keywords: The Ultimate Guide to Leather Wallet Pockets, corter leather, corter, leather pockets, how to make leather pockets, leather wallet pockets, leather t pockets, wallet pocket tutorial, leather pocket tutorial, making leather pockets, leather pocket styles

Id: M7pZ4ey-zzE

Length: 17min 57sec (1077 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 19 2021