The 3 Watch Collection with Mark | Crown & Caliber

are my watches on this side yes sure  positive all right we're going find out   yeah the taking off the watches that  is kind of a one one and done so hey everyone, it's Nathan with Crown & Caliber  and we are back with another 3 Watch Collection   this is where we get to pick a random three  watches from here at the office it's kind of   like that uh tree house collection of sorts  it's like what if I could have these three   and the collection today the parameter is the  classic three watch collection so it is a diver's   watch a dress watch and then an everyday  or a sport watch and today with me we have   Mark. Mark you can take a second introduce  yourself to everyone and let them know what you do   hi I'm mark I work with the valuation department  so part of the few people that every watch that   comes in we assign a price to it figure out  what we're willing to buy for it and purchase it   uh we are the watch experts of the uh of the  first level who comes in yeah he deals a lot with   numbers and it is it is I think integral and what  makes crowning caliber so unique so I'm so glad   you're here today I'm so glad we get to do this  um and I'm super excited that mark is here because   actually mark is going to be on the channel a lot  more we're going to be starting a new series that   features mark and I'm not going to tell you too  much about it but here's a quick teaser on what's   to come I'm mark and I work with the evaluation  department here at Crown & Caliber and in the   department we get to see thousands of watches come  across our desk a day and tens of thousands in a   week sometimes when we get to see so many we  come across some that are what we like to call   the Hidden Gems it's something that even after you  see that many thousands of watches it still grabs   your attention because there's something about it  that's unusual there's something about it that's   worth geeking out over so I'm going to take you on  this journey and we're going to geek out together   about what makes these watches different what  makes them the hidden gems awesome guys well   hey are you ready to jump into these watches  absolutely awesome let's do this man? Boom!   Yeah I know I just want to look at him  for a second went with the classics   you knew I to some extent you knew I would I  there's one on there I knew for sure was going   to be there really yes yeah I definitely I that  one for sure I thought was gonna at least really   the brand just because yes the brand absolutely  I almost put two it was hard to choose which   of the brand would be in there well awesome well  we are gonna jump in you will definitely get to   see the watches guys we'll make sure I have plenty  of great photos of them I do think an interesting   point as we get into this that this is probably  because I've done this a few times is probably   the most personal collection because it is that  classic you know uh what is your three watch   buy and collection there's elements of this  that are definitely closest to things that would   actually in an aspirational sense one day hope to  have so I actually own one here so I feel like of   your collection um well I will I know which one  yes and yours is some I would argue even cooler   I'm excited to talk about that one we'll just  jump in all right so take your first watch that   you're gonna you're gonna talk about I would  love to see it so pick one and hand it to me. I'm gonna go with the uh the diver first all  right the diver all right walk me through   why you chose the Cartier Calibre Diver all right  tell me about it in-house movement uh it's the   1904 MC so it's their version of a 2824 workhouse  workhorse movement yeah that is part of their   in-house caliber they started doing the past 10  years on top of that it's the first real diver   they've ever done and it's blacked out it's  yeah similar proportions to a Submariner and   a size it's actually slightly thinner I love the  blacked out look of it yeah it's just cool it's a   ADLC coating on it so it's amorphous diamond light  coating it's actually a very light it's like a PVD   coating but much stronger it's actually basically  a diamond type carbon so it's very very scratch   resistant well when I picked it up it's funny they  said I was like it's still there there are actual   like scratches and dents in here but it's not  through the finish and I was like well that's not   your standard I knew there was so much harder  the screen is that and it has the weight of steel   not the ceramic it's what a great sound to it  yeah that's a solid bezel is it a what is that   a ceramic bezel or is it a sapphire steel the  bezels with the ADLC coating oh that creates the   smoothness throughout the whole thing so it looks  like ceramic but it won't shatter like ceramic   and it's near as scratch resistant interesting  something that only they do it's something that   they came up with and I don't know if  anyone else uses the exact same coating   and there's a steel version a gold version two  tone but the blacked out version to me is just   sleek I do like the strap too when it lays flat  it almost looks like an integrated strap bracelet   it's kind of funky if you look at the lugs they  actually go out below the strap oh they do on the   edge the strap actually sits higher up in it yeah  so it gives the look of having a typical lugs but   the strap sits further up in it so it gives a more  integrated look to it it is something that just   it flies under the radar it's a watch that I mean  it's a steel yeah it's price range absolute steel   in-house movement a manufacturer that's been  around forever that is underrated in general   and I love the blue side jewel oh the the  cabochon yeah it's just the bridge that   comes out in the black yeah oh man thing looks  great and I think I feel like that's a great nod   to the Cartier’s having the sapphire cabochon  is like hey this is still a cartier like we're   not yeah we're not foregoing what makes us  such a unique you know brand house like no   matter what they'll always make a new watch but  it'll always look like cartier yeah still has the   secret signature I believe the 10 o'clock on that  one yeah has you know it still has the caboose on   it still looks like a Cartier but it looks like  a modern diver dude as 300 meter water resistant   that thing will do everything a submariner  will do yeah I love that man that is a solid   first pick I'm guessing the buckle has the same  same coating I knew you wouldn't disappoint me   I love this thing I it's it's going to  probably be in my personal collection oh   yeah yeah I mean not sooner than later okay  dude that is a sweet one that bezel sweet. I will go ahead and show you my diver and this is  probably the most I don't know the word I'll just   like hedonistic it's the Submariner Hulk. I did  you can't go wrong I as far as a diver for me I   love I love just the Submariner I do I think the  No-Date Submariner is such a classic watch I know   that's like the oh of course you picked that watch  but I do I love it I mean I think I'll say Rolex   is Rolex because it's Rolex like what they do is  in its own right is impressive yeah I've always   loved the Kermit and then when the Hulk came  out I thought the addition of the green dial   was exquisite my only reservation on this is  the super case yeah I I very much prefer the   um the five digit case I even prefer the new  the 12s the new one two case um but I love the   green dial that that it comes to play the green  sunburst to me is what makes that watch that much   more unique than say the new ceramic Kermit or  the original Kermit I actually like this better   than the new ceramic Kermit I like the green dial  better than that black dial and my favorite Rolex   is the original Kermit yeah okay it was it came  out when I first started getting the watches so   for me I love the green on it always have it's  probably been one of my favorite things about   any watch yeah you know about Rolex in general  is when they come out with the green yeah I love   the greens they do and I think get to that point  is the bezel on that works better because of the   green dial where it seems like on the new ceramic  Kermit the green is the same faded it seems faded   because of the black dial it just doesn't and  side by side I'm pretty sure it's the same green   ceramic it looks the same yeah I I mean I said  I love the original Kermit like no other Rolex   um and this is the closest thing to me so this is  a great watch yes I'm not a Rolex fanboy right but   I appreciate them and I there's nothing I'll never  say anything bad about this watch yeah you know   I mean it's a solid watch and it's one that uh  with it going out of you know production it's   because it's going to be rare it's going to be  more sought after it's one of those watches that   the best time to buy that watch would have been  yesterday and it's funny and it's always going to   be that case yes I know so it's one of those like  if you can buy it yeah buy it yeah if you like it   and you can buy it buy it because it's just going  to get worse I mean it's if you have a diver and   you say Submariner no one's ever gonna fault you  no it's Submariner and Seamaster are usually the   top two divers when you talk they're both great  they're both fantastic can do no wrong thank you   so that that is my diver I yeah I've said it  before that I love the Hulk and yeah there's   just something about it I just yeah all right what  do you got next for me my daily your daily so one   of the things as I've become part of the day as my  watch I'm currently wearing has been a daily it's   manual wind yeah and the thing that I'm currently  wearing uh Weiss watch dig a little deeper   because you were telling us about this I this  is kind of an interesting it's the new uh   watch by Cameron Weiss at Weiss Watches it  has no city on it so it's a newer one as he's   moved to Nashville that they got rid of the Los  Angeles on it uh it's my I survived 2020 watch   that I bought for myself having for the past  month I absolutely love it I've fallen in love   with it I haven't worn any of my watches for  a month since I've gotten it which is awesome   but one of the things I fell in love with  that I never had before is a manual wine   because every day I'm waking up first thing I  do before I put on the watch is I pick it up   and wind it I have to take that 20 seconds to  just wind it and it forces me to appreciate it   every day and that's one of the reasons a manual  wind was my first thought for an everyday watch.   I like that yeah on top of that a chronograph  because I do a lot of cooking and I like having   the timing I actually will use a chronograph I  use it as its you know intended purpose because   I'm sitting there honestly timing rice or  something like that it's great to just hit   it not have to think not have to grab my  phone out of my pocket or keep looking   back and turn the screen back on or something  like that having on my wrist keeps it easy. Now this is not any Speedmaster no this is  which I love I love you I love this one this   is the Olympic one yeah not not the Gemini one no  I know but it just made me what's even more unique   is what the stamp Olympic watch in the background  it's one of the set for the rings and this is this   is supposed to be from the blue ring yeah because  the other thing about this watch is who wouldn't   want to remember 2020. that's what I was about to  say and I think it's great to have a stamp in the   back for something that never happened exactly  that makes it so much more interesting it's a   it's going to be more interesting as uh  they came out with so many 20 20 watches   um for the Olympics and this is my favorite one  of those and it's an easier the one the find   than the Gemini one that looks similar yeah  and I love the idea that it says Tokyo 2020   on the back because the little reminder also  things could always be worse it could always   be 2020. yeah and that blue is gorgeous yeah I  made it the see it in person is that bezel an   aluminum bezel is that anodized blue aluminum  I believe it's aluminum yeah yeah that is   that's a solid watch yeah if you want the blue  ceramic you have to get the new Snoopy yeah. All right so for my next watch I'm going to skip  the everyday I'm going to save that one for last   um and for a few reasons I'm going to show you my  dress watch now for my dress watch I went with the   JLC Reverso never go wrong um I went with this  one in particular for a few reasons I will start   with how I even got to here I had never considered  Reverso until um literally the first one of these   until Alli picked one out for me this is the JLC  Reverso duo looks great on your wrist by the way   I could wear that as well um oh so you're just  picking out watches that you can borrow from me   yeah kinda and it was one of the smaller ones and  I think I had written them off because of the size   then even in picking out what my  dress watch would be for this video   I had some others in there um I had some  of the the ones that I've looked at before   some A. Lange’s some of the high-end dress  watches and I put that one on and I was like it   in the most kind of just nerdy way I felt  something about that one how it sat on the wrist   that blue is beautiful the finishing on those  applied indices the I mean and not for nothing   that watch could also be an everyday watch in  a way that an A. Lange is not going to be an   everyday watch like that yes even in the current  outfit I'm wearing I mean originally it's a sports   watch yeah exactly you flip it over originally you  do that go play on some horses yeah exactly I'm   pretty sure that's the caliber 822 which is just  their workhorse manual wound JLC movement I mean   you could wear that every day but if that's what  you throw on when you're going to a wedding or   out to a nice dinner no one will ever no one's  going it's a sports watch originally it's one of   those that's it's transcended its original purpose  yes it's become I mean it is JLC yeah the staple   of the brand is the Reverso and yeah this one's  gorgeous this one in the red one that's similar   to this yeah those two which we also have oh  yeah and the reason I went with that one is I   love blue that's fair the red the red is amazing  I mean it is it is rich it is powerful but for me   this is it had to be blue this is I mean I've  looked at quite a few Reversos but this blue   and dial the sunburst on it even and when  pop it out and look at under the mechanism   look at the art deco yeah sunburst pattern  that's an interesting addition that I didn't   I did not realize that model came with that's  nice that still has the plastic on yeah yeah   wow somebody even take the plastic off  that's awesome that's going to be a steal   forever grabs it up yeah let me see one  more time go for it I love it I love it.  The one I love I I knew I knew you were  gonna have one I just wasn't sure which   oh yeah take a second take it man the  Breguet I think it's a 7417 Classique   they Breguet is the most underrated brand on  that there is out there everyone talks about   the big three everyone talks about  all the other independents that are   high-end watches Breguet is the one that  just gets ignored every time with a history   that's richer than everybody you know that's a  watch with Breguet numerals with Breguet hands   and it's one thing when you first get started  looking at it and it's like that's a pretty white   dress watch and then you realize that that's grand  feu enamel so that is enamel that goes through   eight coats it has a failure rate that approaches  90 percent of cracking and flaws showing in   it so just to make that dial you have to throw  away 90 of the ones that you're trying to make   and and that even goes for the last  stage when they paint on the numbers   like there's also a failure rate at that point so  they can get all the way to painting everything on   still throw it away and then the extra indices  on it the little marks on the numbers are hand   painted on I was wondering those are so intricate  and unique you're talking about something that   like the Credor you're talking about a watch that  is not talked about at the same level as Credors   and it should be that's a good good analogy it  and on top of that you know it's a Breguet you   know it's different and it doesn't have a movement  shared because the sub seconds is off to the side   they're never on the six they're never  on the three they're always to the side   because the movement is made just for that  and then on top of that you have the sub   second hand where it's instead of being a  separate dial it's just slightly divided   yeah making it the chance of it failing even  higher because it's not a flat surface yeah   and then even on top of that and then you have  to keep going keep going man uh between it's   going to be really hard to find but there's a  secret signature in the wide enamel between the   three and the center that you have to look off  what the that's in the enamel in the enamel it's   just a little Breguet logo that's how you know  it's not fake they've been doing that since the   time of Breguet getting a picture of it getting on  video good luck sorry guys wow and that's just the   dial you have the case that is actually the coin  edge isn't CNC machined it's cold rolled so they   have to press it into it and then add the lugs  and the entire watch is six millimeters thick   all right it's just I love the outside after thing  after thing after thing on a watch that costs less   than that Hulk I won't yes I'm about to go to  I love hearing you talk about this man this is   why guys what's coming is going to be so exciting  because of how he and I just talked about watch is   different just yeah and I'm getting excited about  this watch that I would never have been excited   about because you're excited about it because  you get to talk about it in a way where I'm like   you have to get into the details it's not just a  watch that everyone knows and everyone likes it's   once you get into those little details that's  separated from the other guy and that dial when   you start looking into it it's just layers and  layers it's milky glass yeah it's just gorgeous   it's the hard way which makes it better by one  percent yeah but that one percent is what makes   it special everything is done to the nth degree  for no other reason but because it makes it that   one percent better and that one percent better  is the difference between average and great yeah. This is so perfect because everything you just  described um could not be used to describe my   launch which is why I think this has been so  much fun so my last watch is my everyday watch   it is my sport watch it is a Rolex GMT-Master  16700 now there's a reason I picked this   watch I will let you hold it it is a black bezel  GMT-Master this would be with the red hand which   is my favorite part so there's there's a this is  when I think of a grail watch that is my grail   watch and actually my grail watch was a 16710 so  the GMT-Master II um but we're playing this game   we did not have one of those in stock in the black  bezel so I went with this one this is a close   second and I'll also explain why the first Rolex I  ever saw in person was a black bezel GMT-Master II   and it was on um a mixture of an olive NATO strap  and an orange NATO strap it was when I worked in   a restaurant in college he would trade them out  the guy who wore I like he would come in regularly   and he would trade out those two NATO straps he  also had the bracelet and it was when I worked in   a restaurant and he was a photographer and there  was this moment where I was like I can make it   in the sense that I was in the process of getting  an art degree I was slugging through college   working in restaurants and bars and coffee shops  and so when I see those watches there's like this   very visceral like if I can get that I will  have made it now since we didn't have a 16710   I went with the 16700 what's unique about this one  this is still a GMT-Master so for a time Rolex was   producing a GMT-Master and a GMT-Master II yeah  the big difference was this is a 3175 versus a   3185 this doesn't have the jumping hour this is  a “Swiss” only dial which means this is luminova   this is the end of the GMT-Master line this is  one of the last ones that would have been made   so the reason I love the 16710 is because  I can I was just getting into watches when   I met this individual this photographer and it  had the pierced lugs but had the solid end link   bracelet so I could date it to the early 2000s  but I knew it was a GMT-Master II it says it   on the dial and so for me that kind of checked  the boxes you get the pierced lugs you get some   of the modern kind of creature conference of that  solid end link bracelet and that's why I love that   but this as far as like a close second just the  black bezel GMT-Master II to me this is probably   my favorite version of the watch because it's  a little more modern it's not going to patina   which means it's not going to crack yeah the  luminova and I still love the aluminum I do too   I think the aluminum is great the case is perfect  the watch that got me into watches is I inherited   from my late father-in-law on 1964/1675 GMT in  black which is the earliest black bezel I've   ever seen it's all original they all originally  sat in a bank for 40 years yeah it was also one   of the first interactions where I saw it and I  was like mark you've got to talk about it it's a   yeah it's a 1964 I believe it's a Mark 1 dial yeah  it's just as soon as the big arrow hit yeah it's   like one of the first dials of that I mean it's  a great condition it's got one scratch across the   bezel and that's it it is so everything in there  is mint it looks fantastic it's a very it's just   past the million watch mark yeah on the serial  number below 1.1 million yeah so it's it's one   of those that it is definitely a 1964 all original  um even the bracelet still looks good and once you   get that watch in hand and once you wear it you're  like yeah I'm hooked yeah so that's like I was   like you're done that's like what's so beautiful  about watches is there's the brigade you have   and then there is this watch and in comparison  that GMT-Master is a dime a dozen but   really the difference between that GMT-Master  and your late father-in-law's is not that much   different we we find connections to watches like  the JLC where I put that on I'm like wow like   this this speaks it speaks I always say watches  are art yeah don't need them we like them because   they're pretty yes that's why we like art  it speaks to us it provokes an emotion yeah   and these are all very different watches  but they all speak to you yeah and that's   what's great about the collections um so I  have some bad news you got to take that off   oh I don't like this you're sitting here talking  I'm like no mark you're still wearing the Breguet   yeah yep well hey guys we love doing this and I  know I say that but we truly do mark thank you   so much guys I am so excited what's coming out  and it's going to be featuring mark you're going   to get to see more of them and if this is uh any  taste of what it's going to be like then guys you   are really in for a treat mark thank you so much  thank you and as always guys thanks for watching

Channel: Crown & Caliber by Hodinkee

Views: 121,455

Keywords: Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver WSCA0006, Rolex Submariner 116610LV Hulk OMEGA Speedmaster Specialties 522.30.42.30.03.001, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Q3978480, Breguet Classique 7147BB/29/9WU, Rolex GMT-Master 16700, Cartier, Hulk, Rolex, Sub, speedmaster, Olympics, tokyo 2020, JLC, Reverso, GMT, Rolex GMT, luxury watches, crown & caliber, luxury watch, watch collection, crown and caliber, The 3 Watch Collection with Mark | Crown & Caliber

Id: 7uUvKhzXHCk

Length: 23min 8sec (1388 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 30 2021