So, I don't know if you've noticed,
but there are like, a lot of new 3D printers coming out on the market. And despite the fact that I'm literally
declining over half of what manufacturers are offering to send me, over the last
few months, I've racked up nearly a dozen of these latest, greatest 3D printers. And in this video, I'm gonna
try and review them all. Let's get after it. So, real quick, before we dive into the
video, I wanna make a quick comment on the format and get the ethical stuff
out of the way, 'cause that's important. First of all, none of the brands that
I'll be featuring in today's video have sponsored the video, but a couple
of them are regular sponsors of the channel, though that won't stop me
from sharing my honest opinions. Second, I want to point out that because
there are other, more in depth reviews of all of these printers, like the wonderful
reviews done by Aurora Tech channel, which actually go into the deeper specs,
my goal in this video is instead to share the highlights of each machine. What I love, what I don't, and
an overall verdict or conclusion. If you want to then go deeper on
any given machine, I encourage you to watch some of the more in depth
reviews out there, or just ask me your questions in the comments. And while I know that it might seem a
little unfair for me to accept printers for a review, and then pack seven or eight
of them into one video, the truth is, my first responsibility and my priority is
to provide value to you guys, my viewers, who make this whole channel possible. And, who've told me that
you prefer comparison videos over straight up reviews. Not to mention, if I did a single
review for each one of these printers, my entire channel would be nothing
but reviews for the next, like, three months or more, at which point some
of these machines would no longer be relevant or interesting at all. Finally, I actually predict that
because this video will appeal to a much wider audience rather than just
the small subset of people interested in a specific printer, this video
actually will garner more views and more exposure for each of these brands. But hey, let me know in the comments
below if you like this format, or if not. Okay, with all of that out of the
way, let's talk about some printers and keep in mind if you're not
interested in a specific one of these machines, you can always just use
the chapters below to skip around. Let's start things off with a machine
that has been shrouded in controversy after YouTuber Clough42's discoveries
caused Qidi to pull their entire line of new Klipper printers off the market. Fortunately, they really took his feedback
to heart because the unit that I received was free from that specific issue, though
not perfect as you're about to see. The X-Max 3 is obviously, a large format
printer with a 330 squared print bed area, active chamber heating, Klipper, and more. And let me just tell you, right off
the bat, this thing is phenomenal. There's a lot to love
about the Qidi X-Max 3. First of all, it's running a full
unrestrained version of Klipper with a super easy to use touchscreen
interface built on top of it. Second, the large build volume
is a welcome change over most of the other Bambu Lab clones
out there like the Creality K1. Third, the quality of the prints, whether
PLA, ABS, or even exotic materials, is some of the best I've ever seen. In fact, this thing prints a 16 minute
benchy that, quite frankly, rivals the quality of a 1 hour 40 minute
benchy printed on a Prusa MK3S Plus. It's that good. Bed leveling works phenomenally. The hotend, which is, to be
honest, heavily inspired by Bambu Lab, flows incredibly well. And the printer is well thought
out in terms of ergonomics and usability with things like handles
and an easy to use lid right on top. This thing, right out of the box,
reliably produces phenomenal prints in any material you throw at it, and it
quickly became one of the printers that I just set and forget as it churns out
beautiful prints over the entire weekend. With all that said, the more I used
the X-Max 3, the more I discovered a lot of little annoyances that
really took away from the experience. First of all, in order to change
the hotend, which you'll have to do if you want to print abrasive
materials, you need to take apart basically the entire tool head, including the back cover - a process
which takes 20 minutes or more, even if the printer isn't tucked away on a shelf. I quickly resorted to just changing the
nozzles, which thankfully are slightly shorter Volcano V6 nozzles, instead
of swapping out the entire hotend. Second, although the machine runs
a full open source version of Klipper, I discovered that you,
the user, cannot freely upgrade or modify it without damaging it. I made the mistake of simply upgrading
the printer to the latest versions of Klipper and Moonraker, only to discover
that I'd bricked the entire machine. And, when I spoke to support to see
how I could just roll back the software and flash the old one, they informed
me that they'd actually have to ship out an entirely new EMMC, because there
was no way to roll it back myself. That's absolutely insane. And while I really love the touchscreen
interface and ease of use improvements that Qidi has made to Klipper, to me,
nothing is worth trading the ability to literally upgrade the printer on my
own if say, I want to install things like OctoEverywhere or just switch
to Mainsail to suit my own needs. Additionally, I definitely would have
appreciated it if Qidi included a camera. Now, I understand that this may be
really hard to do on a printer with a heated chamber, but at $1000 and with
a build volume this big that could take days to print, I would expect
to be able to monitor my prints like I can on my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. Finally, there's the design. The Qidi X-Max 3 isn't a bad looking
printer, but it definitely doesn't win any awards when placed next to the
Creality K1 or the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. The housing seems bigger than it needs
to be, and the use of plastic all over instead of glass and aluminum really
cheapens the look and feel of the machine. Overall, I give the Qidi X-Max 3 a
resounding two thumbs up though, because if Chidi is willing to just change the
software or provide regular updates of their own modified version, that allows
users to take a little more control, I think this printer will be a huge hit. If you're one of the many, many people
out there waiting around for a bigger version of the X1 Carbon, well, wait
no more, because this machine ticks all the boxes, and with a $29 webcam
and an OctoEverywhere subscription, you basically will want for nothing. As always, and with every one of these
printers, link in the description if you are willing to support the channel. No, no, you didn't accidentally
switch to Ivan Miranda's channel. You're just meeting the Comgrow T500. And no, I'm not going to be trying to
move this thing again to record on my main set, because it weighs more than I do. With a 500 millimeter cube build
volume, this machine puts other huge 3D printers like the AnyCubic Kobra Max
and the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max to shame. But is it any good? First of all, I have to say that despite
being a bedslinger, this thing moves. It does so by having a ridiculously
rigid frame with CNC'd metal brackets and by running Klipper with input shaping. In other words, while the bed itself
is heavier than insert yo-mama joke here, this thing manages to churn out
a very respectable 25-minute benchy with surprisingly good quality. What's more, I love the use
of open source, easy to modify software such as KlipperScreen
and the massive touchscreen LCD. It also has a volcano style
hotend, but we'll come to that in a second, and generally has
very solid, high quality build. With that said, there are a few
things about the Comgrow T500 that really disappointed me. First, it ships with a comical
0.4 mm nozzle, and while a few extra nozzles are included, the
maximum is this 0.8 mm nozzle. I think that with a printer of this size,
it really makes sense to tune it on larger nozzles, because printing this big with
a 0.4 nozzle is, well, it's just silly. But here's the thing, even
if you do try to swap to a 1. 0 or 1.2 mm nozzle,
you're in for a bad time. First, the printer uses a strangely shaped
volcano nozzle, rather than the standard V6 ones I'm familiar with, and the housing
of the tool head is so close to the actual print surface, that if you do use
a slightly shorter nozzle, your print head will scrape along the prints constantly. What's more, the heater block seems
to be inadequate for what I was trying to do because I was severely limited
by flow rates and if I wanted to print with any reasonably fast speed than
I had to stick to the 0.8 nozzle. This could be improved by putting a
CHT nozzle on there, but as I said, the tight clearance of the print head versus
the tool head really prevented me from using any of the CHT nozzles that I own. And when I spoke to the folks at Comgrow,
they told me that they were still working on tuning pressure advance for 1. 2 mm nozzles. So that was a real bummer. Personally, I feel like if you're going
to sell a printer this big, especially one where the headline feature is high
speed large printing, then you really should make sure that your hotend can
exceed 22 millimeters cubed per second. To be honest, I haven't been able to
get really very many successful prints off of this at the time of writing,
except for the 3D benchy I printed and hopefully this large trash can. I'm quite sure that if I spent more
time on this thing and tuned things like pressure advance, speeds, bed leveling,
and my profiles in OrcaSlicer, I could get this thing to print really well. But considering I have plenty of other
printers that are nearly as big and just work right out of the box without
all these hassles, I really can't justify spending any more time on
getting this thing to work any better. Third, there's the knobs on top. Don't get me wrong, it makes sense
to have a way to manually move the Z, but by having the knobs
stick out that far, they've made a printer that is impossible to find
a home for even more impossible-er. And I honestly have no idea where I'm
going to put this thing moving forward. Fourth, and this is a small one,
but these cheapy metallic rail guards are really not great. They bunch up and one even fell off
on me, which for a printer of this price point and general build quality,
felt like a bit of an oversight. But to be honest, Comgrow did
let me know that they're making a lot of changes to the printer
before it goes into production, and from what I understood of the
obviously auto translated email, that's going to be one of them. At the time of this recording,
I unfortunately don't know the price for this printer, so I can't
comment on the price or the value. But it's really, really hot and loud in
this room, so why don't we just move on. The AnkerMake M5C. AnkerMake's new entry level 3D
printer geared towards beginners with no technical savvy. I'll be honest, this printer gave me
a lot of headaches when I recently did some sponsored content for AnkerMake. But after watching other people's
reviews, I'm actually convinced that something small was wrong with
mine, such as a defective hotend fan, which caused all the issues. And so, I'm going to try and judge this
as if I didn't have persistent clogging, as I showed in the sponsored video. There's no two ways about it. The build quality, design, fit, and
finish of the AnkerMake M5C is top notch. This printer legitimately looks
more like a polished home electronic device from someone like Apple or Bose
than it does a hobbyist 3D printer. It's just beautiful. I love the speed and the prints that I
was able to get off of it were acceptable though not earth-shattering in quality. What's more, their apps, both
desktop and mobile, are easy enough that your mom could legitimately
use them, and I, for one, really appreciate that AnkerMake is trying
to make 3D printing more approachable to a broader spectrum of people. Needless to say, I encouraged AnkerMake
to look into the hotend fan and the issues that I was having, and to their credit,
they were very quick to schedule a Zoom call with me later this week to diagnose
why my specific unit was clogging so much. So I'm really confident that they
will get to the bottom of that before they start shipping machines. But beyond that, I would say that there
honestly isn't too too much that I would really change about this machine
considering what it's meant to be. Sure, it would be nice if I would be
able to switch out the firmware when I outgrow the beginner suite included with
it, but then that would kind of defeat the overall purpose of this printer - to
be a dead simple one that a beginner literally couldn't possibly screw up now. I could also complain about the
fact that there's no touchscreen or camera, but again that would reflect
a cognitive dissonance with this machine and what is trying to be. So let's get to the
conclusion or the verdict. Look, AnkerMake's M5C is not
the most advanced 3D printer. If you're a 3D printing enthusiast
already and you want a great all around printer that's going to grow with you as
you mature in this hobby, this isn't it. But if you're looking to get someone
like your nieces and nephews, your parents, or even some of your friends
into the hobby in an easy and fool-proof way, this is probably the best 3D
printer on the market to do it. And for that, I give them
a hearty round of applause. And, as always, link in the description
if you want to support the channel. On the absolute opposite end of the
spectrum, we have this LDO kit, a 3D printer that you literally need
to build from a bucket of parts. including printing out all
of the parts yourself in ABS. Let me be clear here, the only people
who buy or should buy a Voron kit are those who really enjoy the process
of building and tuning 3D printers. Because if you want a high
performance machine that just works out of the box, this isn't it. In fact, it's at this point that I
actually need to thank my Discord members - Vlad and Jacques, who actually
helped me build the next two printers on a live stream because I simply wouldn't
have had the time to do it otherwise. These things take like 40
to 50 hours each to build. But if you're into that kind of thing,
it's a really enjoyable process. As you've probably heard before, if
you've watched videos about Voron kits, the LDO kit is the one to beat,
and the quality, not only of the parts themselves, but also of the instructions
and supplemental manuals, is really second to none, or at least so I
thought, but more on that in a second. LDO makes a phenomenal, all around
great kit, and where they really excel, in my opinion, is in including all
the latest and greatest upgrades and modifications that you might want to do. PicoBilical PCB? No drop nuts? Kirigami bed? RGB LEDs? They're on top of all of it, and they
keep their kits up-to-date with all the latest, greatest bells and whistles
that you might possibly want to do. The LDO kit, which I outfitted with
a Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum that was provided to me free-of-charge
prints beautifully, and the quality of the parts is phenomenal. LDO has chosen to use the more expensive
but better options when it comes to electronics, such as including an
E3D Revo, the BTT SKR Pico control board, and they even recommend using
an authentic Raspberry Pi Zero. The instructions, even when they differ
from the official Voron guide, are great. I have no complaints about the kit
or the printer itself, to be honest. With all that said, I hate to say
that as we were building this kit alongside the next printer I'm going
to be talking about, there were a few things that really stood out to us. First, LDO's choice of packing all
the hardware, each in individual baggies, while more convenient than
having no organization whatsoever, is really not the best way to make
them easy to find during the build. And a simple labeled organization
box would have gone a long way. Second, and this is really
my only complaint, the price. Don't get me wrong, LDO has earned
their name as the top of the line when it comes to Voron kits, and so they
deserve to command a premium price. But, this kit, which is priced at $649 for
most retailers, typically comes without a Raspberry Pi or any printed parts. And that is a lot of money,
especially when compared to the next printer on our list. Oh, and maybe just one more thing, and
this isn't an indictment of the LDO kit itself, but rather of the Voron
mini stealthburner design as a whole. This thing has the cooling
capability of an asthmatic baby angel blowing through a straw. If you're planning on buying the 0.2
kit for printing speed benchies or small PLA objects, think again, because
you'll need significant amounts of auxiliary cooling to even come close to
the speeds of something like the Qidi X-Max 3 or the Bambu Lab X1-Carbon,
simply because of the lackluster cooling capability of this design. If you're looking to build a Voron 0.2 and
you want the latest, greatest version with all the bells, whistles, upgrades, perfect
documentation, and tried and true name, look no further than the LDO Motors kit. I can say with complete confidence
that you will be extremely happy with this kit, and if you don't have time
to mess around, this is the way to go. With that said, unless you're already
able to print ABS parts on your own, you may need to buy either CNC or printed
parts, as well as a Raspberry Pi Zero, and all that can get expensive pretty fast. As always, links in the description
if you wish to support the channel. All right, let's take a quick break
because I do have to let you know about this video's sponsor, and that's
a longtime sponsor of this show, PCBWay. Don't let the name fool you. PCBWay has you covered for any kind
of fabrication that you need, whether it be injection molding, sheet metal
manufacturing, metal 3D printing, CNC machining, industrial scale
3D printing, or of course, PCBs. Every single person that I've
referred to PCBWay has been blown away by their quality and
service, and it's easy to see why. Their prices are incredible. Their service is even better and
their lead times are incredibly fast. So to check them out and get a sign
on bonus for your first order, and of course support the channel in so doing,
hit the link in the description below. Alright, let's get back to this video. Some of you may have heard of
the Siboor Voron kits because MandicReally did a video on the
cheapest Voron kit on the market. But fear not, because Siboor has grown up,
and they are now aggressively moving into the more premium market segment that has
historically been dominated by LDO Motors. The kit I was provided was 100%
complete, including a complete set of CNC'd aluminum parts, and all the
printed parts for anything that you would need printed out of eSUN ABS. As well as a hotend, a
control board, and more. But how good is it? First of all, throughout the build
process, Jacques, Vlad, and myself were all simply blown away by the quality,
not only of the CNC'd parts, but also of the 3D printed parts, and even of the
packaging and the general organization. We particularly loved how Siboor
organized all the hardware into a box with a map, because while this might
seem like a really really small thing, it saved a ton of time on the build,
which is already an incredibly long build process with these machines. What's more, the ingenious idea of using
CNC machined parts, which Siboor has modified in certain places to make use
of the capabilities of metal, makes this machine heavier and more rigid, and I
was actually surprised to see that the max acceleration of the unit on one
of the axes was actually twice that of the LDO kit, though ultimately the
recommended acceleration with the right settings was actually about the same. Additionally, Siboor had mostly great
documentation with images explaining things like the wiring and sample files
right on their Github, but really what I loved most about this kit is that it
includes absolutely everything - from the Phaetus Dragon hotend, to the
control board, and all the printed and CNC'd parts all in one box for
the incredible price of just $635. Oh, and if you want it with 3D printed
parts, it's actually only $515. That's insane considering the price
of the LDO kit, which again, doesn't include the Raspberry Pi or any of the
printed parts, is significantly more. With that glowing review, you might
be surprised to hear that there are actually quite a few things that
I would change on the Siboor kit. First of all, I had a lot of
difficulty with the Fly-Gemini board they sent, ranging from my first one
actually being a dud, to issues with connectivity and configuring the files. It actually took a lot of work and
a lot of help from four or five wonderful different people at Siboor
to actually get this machine working. Largely because my shooting schedule
just didn't allow for me to spend all of the time to figure it out myself. Additionally, the kit that I received was
missing a lot of the upgrades like the kirigami bed, PicoBilical PCB, and more. However, Siboor actually let me
know before recording that they are going to be adding those upgrades
shortly and increasing the price by really only a very nominal amount. If and when they do, it's going to
make their kit extremely competitive with the LDO ones in terms of value. But one other thing that I would like
to see them change is the documentation. Though they do give a very clear guide
for wiring and they attempt to show the differences between their machine and the
official Voron guide in the same way that LDO does that I love so much, there are
still a lot of confusing inconsistencies such as places where V0.1 shows up or
updated guides which show the parts that are going to come out on the new kits but
aren't included on the old kits just yet. It becomes really difficult to understand
which guide you can trust and which one is for the kit that you have. All this is pretty easy to fix. I mean, they could just solve it by
forking the instructions and giving users a clear guide to understand which
set of instructions they should actually follow based on their purchase date. This is another phenomenal Voron kit,
and it well exceeded my expectations based on what I'd heard about Siboor. If you're on a budget and you want the
best value for the money, even if it means that you need to spend a little
more time troubleshooting, figuring things out, or asking for help on
Discord, this is the machine to get. In the end, I do think that you're gonna
have a more polished, finished printer, thanks to the CNC'd machine parts, and I
have no doubt, based on just how attentive and responsive the Siboor team has been to
me, that after this video comes out, they are going to be improving everything I
mentioned from the guides to the hardware, so I would say that this kit is giving the
LDO kit a real genuine run for its money at something like two thirds the price. As always, yes, link in the description
if you want to support the channel. Recently, AnyCubic sent over the
Kobra 2, an ultra fast, entry level 3D printer, which they wanted me to
feature in an upcoming sponsored spot. But what do I think of it? First off, I'll say that the
quality of this printer is good. It's solid, it's well made,
and it is a breeze to set up. Also, it features AnyCubic's new
LevyQ automatic leveling system, which, given that I think they named
it for me, must be super awesome. Setup, as I said, was a breeze. No complaints there. It also prints fast, apparently. I wouldn't know, because after setting
it up and realizing all the things that it was missing, like dual Z motors and
a few other things I'm going to mention, I actually didn't bother continuing and
I just let AnyCubic know that I would rather include some of their other
printers in their upcoming ad spot. Here's why. I think that this printer at
$259 would have been a great one maybe 6 or 8 months ago. The prospect of giving a fast, well-made
printer to entry-level users at a bargain basement of a price, it's a good idea. I support that. Unfortunately for AnyCubic, since
this printer came out, the Sovol SV07 also came out and then had
its price slashed to just $269. Unlike the SV07, this printer does
not feature Wi-Fi connectivity, meaning that you need to
transfer files using an SD card. Unlike the SV07, this printer does
not use open source software like Klipper or Klipper Screen, or if it
does, you can't access and modify it. So, basically, this machine is $10
less than the SV07, but much less convenient, and much less expandable. And for that reason, I told AnyCubic that
I simply could not promote it to you guys. To their credit, they fully understood
where I was coming from, and they let me know about some future, more competitive
models that they'll be sending over, which apparently I'm gonna feel much more
comfortable giving my seal of approval, so hit that subscribe button if you
want to see those when they come out. As I said before, I unfortunately
cannot recommend this printer, at least not at this price. If it were meaningfully cheaper than
the SV07, I could at least recommend it for the ultra budget conscious consumer
or anyone who literally doesn't want Wi-Fi connectivity on their printer for
security reasons or some such thing. But as it stands today, unfortunately,
the AnyCubic Kobra 2 is a casualty of the ultra brutal competitive
landscape in 3D printing right now. Recently, I had the distinct
privilege of introducing the world to the new Bambu Lab P1S. But, because I was on a super tight
deadline to get the video out first, I wasn't able to go too in depth with
the machine, and I actually overlooked some pretty important things that
I want to correct in this video. So, let's go a little bit
deeper into all that right now. And by the way, you'll notice I don't have
the printer here for a couple reasons. One, it didn't fit on the table. But two, it's actually pretty much
printing 24/7 ever since I got it and I didn't want to stop it,
which is a little bit of a spoiler for the verdict that's coming up. The Bambu Lab P1S shares most of what I
love about the entire Bambu Lab lineup. The industry shifting performance,
the easy-to-use software, the instant setup, the seamless integration with
their AMS system, a beautiful mobile app experience, blah, blah, blah, blah. You've heard it all before. But the P1S also has some new things
that I especially love, including the gold textured PEI plate, which offers
phenomenal bed adhesion on a wider range of materials than the lackluster
cool and engineering plates of the X1C. What's more, I personally think that the
P1S's gun metal finish is more attractive than any of the other Bambu Lab lineup. To be honest, I wouldn't change anything
about the P1S because I understand that the differences between it and the X1
-Carbon that I don't like need to exist to achieve the price that they've achieved. With that said, when I compare the P1S
to my two X1-Carbons, there are a few things that I definitely miss, some
of which weren't apparent to me when I first did that original overview video. First, I'm not going to surprise
any of you when I say that I don't like that clicky button display and
I miss the beautiful touchscreen. Second, at the time of recording, I didn't
actually realize that the P1S does not feature hardened steel extruder gears or
nozzles, making it less suited, but not completely incompatible, with abrasive
filaments like carbon fiber nylon. What's more, the max build plate
temperature of 100 degrees Celsius means that you are going to be a little more
limited on those advanced materials. Finally, I had no idea that the
P1S, due to its inferior processing power, lacks both spaghetti detection
and smooth remote viewing, both of which I actually genuinely miss. And while the 720p camera is fine,
it definitely isn't as nice or high resolution or high frame rate
for things like timelapses as the 1080p one is in its big brother. Notably missing from this list
of things that I am missing is the Micro-Lidar, which frankly,
I don't miss at all on the P1S. Look, I said it in my original review,
and nothing that I've discovered since then has changed my mind one bit. I think this is probably the absolute
best all-around printer to get for anyone who doesn't have money to burn. At $699, it has everything you
need, and it will even allow you to dip your toes into advanced
filaments and even abrasives. Sure, if you plan to print
carbon fiber reinforced filaments all day, get the X1 Carbon. But for everyone else, I really think
you can't go wrong with the P1S. Seriously. And here, again, I probably don't need
to say it, but link in the description if you wanna support the channel. All right. We have come to the end of our list, but
I can't let you go without talking about the all new Sovol SV07 Plus, the latest
release from a long time sponsor, Sovol. As you all know by now, I really
love the SV07 and I wasn't alone. And so in true Sovol fashion, the SV07
Plus is a scaled up version of the SV07 with a lot of little tweaks and upgrades. But is it any good? As with all the Sovol machines I've
used, setup and assembly with this machine were an absolute breeze. Build quality is, as always, exceptional. Except for a little issue where print
start and print end macros are always incorrectly named on these printers. The printer just worked
right out of the box. They even include a simple setup guide
for configuring the printer, including bed meshing and even input shaping, all
of which takes just minutes, and which will give you much higher quality prints. The bed size at 300 by 300 by 400 is a
great trade off between being able to print massive things on the one hand,
but also actually being able to store this printer in a real home on the other. And it prints fast, just as fast as
its little brother, and with equally good quality for a bedslinger. Or quite frankly for any printer,
regardless of price point. Now once again, I'll commend
Sovol for sticking with the base, unbastardized versions of open source
software like Klipper, Fluid, and Klipper Screen, and allowing you, the
user, to modify it to their heart's content without breaking anything. I love these machines because Sovol
doesn't try to corral you into using their own slicer like Creality or AnkerMake,
and their approach seems to be to give you the hardware and make the software
work with whatever stack you want to use. While that might be scarier for new
users than just downloading the approved slicer from Creality's website, in my
opinion, it makes for a much better experience for hobbyists and enthusiasts
who want to make the printer their own and let it grow with their skills. I also love that the SV07 came with
an extra build surface because one of the few, few issues that I've had with
my SV07 is that the gold finish on the Sovol logo actually peeled off after
a while on both sides of the surface. I complained about this on the SV07
and I'll complain about it here too. I don't like how the filament sensor
is mounted, or rather dangling, on the top of this printer. It probably won't bother you if you don't
have racks and racks of printers, but for me, the first thing I do is remove the
filament spool holder on all my printers so I can fit more of them on my shelves. Now this is an easy enough fix, I mean,
I would love to see Sovol just provide a STL right on the printer's files
to print your own bracket and mount the filament holder somewhere else. In fact, instead of waiting around,
I might just get around to doing it myself and uploading it to Printables. But as you can probably tell, I'm
really hunting for things to complain about here, because this printer,
it's honestly damn good for the price. If you want a big, fast printer
and you can't justify spending a thousand bucks on an X-Max 3,
this would be my recommendation. And considering that it actually prints
just as well and just as fast as the SV07, I actually might recommend this over
that since it will be more versatile and allow you to print more bigger things. In short, this printer is great and
I recommend it with confidence, so check out the link in the description
if you wish to support the channel. By the way, I have an idea for a
video on the top big 3D prints, but I'm not sure how many of you have
larger format 3D printers, so please let me know in the comments below
if that's a video you'd like to see. So, there you have it, all the
latest 3D printers that I've agreed to test out, complete with
what I love and what I don't. Thanks so much to all the manufacturers
featured in this video for sending me these printers free-of-charge to review. Thanks again to my Patreon supporters
for supporting me on Patreon. And thanks to all of you for
watching, liking, and subscribing. I would love to know if this is a format
of video you enjoyed and if you'd like to see me do any more of them in the future. In any case, I appreciate you all, and
although that is all for this week, I'll see all of you on The Next Layer.
