Today on Chuck's Garage, we install Holley's
new Terminator EFI system and take it on a test drive. Hi, I'm Chuck Hanson. Welcome to Chuck's Garage, you know, this
old silver 70' has been a great platform for testing a lot of products over the years,
and today, we've got another project planned. We're going to take this Holley 3310 and upgrade
it with Holley's brand new Terminator EFI set up, but before we start turning wrenches,
let me show you whats all included in that kit. You know, there are a lot of reasons for upgrading
to fuel injection, for instance some of the fuel blends out there right now, especially
in the summer time can lead to fuel peculation in the bowls of the carburetor and fuel vapor
lock even. With fuel injection, well you're not going
to have to deal with any of that, plus your going to get the potential for improved drivability
and the potential for increased fuel milage. Now quite honestly a lot of guys don't convert
over to fuel injection because it's not easy to do. For instance, after you get all of the hardware
bolted up you still have to take the car down the road, have a buddy over in the seat over
their with a laptop and he's re-mapping your fuel and your timing curves and well, that's
a pain. So you can also hire somebody to do your tuning
for you, but that's additional expense. So Holley's taken all of those concerns and
just got rid of them with this new Terminator EFI system and this is what makes it real
easy. This is the the Terminator EFI ECU and what
it does is it takes all the input from the sensors, combines it all, and tells the fuel
injection set up exactly what it needs for the driving conditions and what your engine
is telling it that it needs. Now Holley's made it real simple to install
this, for instance, this wiring harness. All of the terminals are already on there,
simple plug and play deal, almost too simple. Of course your also going to have O2 sensor,
temp sensors, throttle brackets here, check out this cool little hand held deal. Now what this is going to do, it's going to
prompt you with a couple of simple questions, all you've got to do is answer them, it'll
get you the basic start up mode and from there you just drive the car and that computer's
going to learn everything that it needs to know to tell the fuel injection what it needs,
but hey, check this out. This is the coolest part of that whole hardware
package here, this is the throttle body. Now besides that cool gray color here, I'm
going to share something with you, this throttle body is based on the same one that's being
used in Nascar today, and as you can see from this gasket right here, this thing will bolt
up to any square flange Holley out there. Fuel system, they've got 4 separate fuel delivery
systems here, we're going to start with the most simple, inexpensive set up, we'll talk
about them later but I say right now it's time to get that old carburetor off of there
and start getting this new stuff on. Well alright, we're going to get rid of this
hood here to make it a little easier to work on and to give you guys a little bit better
look. Now I've got my buddy Eric here, he's gonna
help me out today here, we're going to get this job done pronto, so let's get started
on this carb. The first thing that we want to do is disconnect
the positive battery cable and we can remove the throttle cable and spring, the vacuum
lines, the fuel line, and the carb retaining nuts. Now we can just get that old carburetor out
of the way. Now Holley claims this as being a complete
kit so you don't have to make any last minute runs to the parts house on a Saturday afternoon
somewhere, so they include the studs in their kit, and also the gasket, we're just going
to replace all of that. Alright, now we're ready for the throttle
body but before I bolt it up there are a couple of things that I want to show you here. First of all if you check this out, all of
the actuators and sensors are all OE quality which means that if you have some problems
out in the field, all you've got to do is go down to your local parts store, you can
source them there, and probably get them pretty inexpensively too. The second thing is, all the wiring, it's
already pre-terminaled, it's routed, and check it out, it comes into one pig tail, plug and
play baby that's what we're talking about, really really simple. Now on the bottom side here, a couple of things
I want to point out here, first of all Holley has moved the injectors down here below the
throttle plates and check out these aluminum rings here, these are actually fueled discharge
rings there, it's going to result in really good fuel atomization. Now I also know that I told you earlier that
you can bolt this thing up to any intake that has a square Holley flange, that doesn't mean
that you guys with spread bore intakes are totally left out in the dark but, you know
what you can do is you can go down to any speed shop, you can pick up that 1 inch adaptor
that takes it down from a square flange to a spread bore, no problem there, but I'll
tell you what, if you've got an intake that has the dual bolt pattern already drilled
into it, what I want you to do is you just set this thing on there and you check right
along this edge right in here. Sometimes there's a little void right there
that can cause a vacuum leak, if that's the case all your going to need, your not going
to need that big fat adaptor, just go down there, you can buy a steel plate that's about
a 1/16ths of an inch thick and you mount it on there. You put paper gasket, steel plate, paper gasket,
you set the throttle body in place, it'll seal up perfectly. Now before we cinch down that throttle body
there, we've got to deal with our throttle bracket here, throttle cable bracket. Now if you remember they came with 2, one
for one with an automatic, one for manual transmission cars, that's the one we're going
to use since we've got a 4 speed here. Now all we've got to do is set the thing right
on top of here, and put the nut on. Now we can tighten down that throttle body
using a criss cross patten, torque them down to 5.7 foot-pounds. Now install the throttle cable ball on the
throttle arm, roll the cable up into the throttle cable bracket, and snap the cable onto that
ball. Now with the throttle body bolted down we
can start re-connecting our vacuum lines, this one for the power brakes goes right back
here in the corner of the throttle body, and this line right here for the vacuum advance
goes right here to ported vacuum. Now the next thing that we're going to do
is install this temp sensor that comes with the Terminator kit. We're going to replace this one down here
that's already in the intake manifold. What this ones currently being used for is
to cycle our electric fans on the radiator. Once we get this one in place it's going to
send the temperature information to the computer and the Terminator can cycle up to 2 fans
and set them at whatever temperature that you want, but before we can replace that sending
unit we need to drain just a little bit of coolant out of the radiator. Alright, now we've got enough of the coolant
out of there that we can just remove this sensor and replace it with the one that comes
in the kit. Snug it down. The
last thing you want to do on this side is re-connect the throttle spring and then we're
done. With the ECU, the next thing we're going to
mount up here, a couple of things to keep in mind when your choosing a place to mount
it. Now you can put it inside but I'll tell you
what, we've got an aftermarket air conditioner unit here, doesn't allow us to get it up inside
there but if you've got room, why not mount it in the glove box, great place for them. I've put several of them there myself before,
but since we're going to keep this thing in the engine compartment here's what you want
to consider. You want to keep it away from any radical
heat source there, you want to make sure that you've got plenty of room between the headers
and this thing here, you don't want a lot of heat getting to it. You also want to keep it away from any high
energy, noisy electronic devices. For example this HEI distributor gives off
a lot of electronic noise just like a CD ignition system would. So give them plenty of room around there,
here's something else, these here are the plug ins for the wiring harness, if you mount
it up like this it's going to collect water in there, possibly short out something and
so you want to make sure that you mount it with those plug ins down. Now one last thing, along those same lines,
since we've got these down you also want to make sure that your not mounting it in a place
that's going to splashed heavily with water every time you drive through a mud puddle. Now I've looked this thing over and I think
right about in here is going to be a great place for it, got plenty of room between the
headers and the ECU, we'll go ahead and drill our holes. Well now that we've got the ECU mounted on
the fire wall there we can go ahead and run the wiring harness. What I've decided to do is run it right up
underneath the lip of the firewall here that's going to give a pretty bit of concealment
there, make it as inconspicuous as possible and I've routed it behind the finder attaching
point on the firewall here, and we're going to route it down around here, all we've got
to do is plug in these 2 underneath. Well alright, now we're ready to finish up
some more of the wiring. Now you can see this this little red and white
wire that comes out of the bundle right there, what I'm doing is feeding it through a grommet
here into the inside of the car and Eric is going to pick it up in there, you got it Eric? Good deal Eric, thanks. Now once it's inside of the car your going
to want to make sure that it gets routed to a switched 12 volt source and by that I mean
it's got to be a good clean, 12 volt source that's on when the ignition switch on and
also on when it's in the start position. So make sure that you don't run it to a dirty
12 volt source when it's cranking for instance the coil, some guys might want to hook it
up to the coil but just go to the fuse box or any one of those sources inside there,
check it with a continuity tester, make sure you've got a good 12 volts when the switch
is on and in the start position. Now the green wire, what that's going to do
is it's going to power our fuel pump, and we don't have the fuel pump mounted yet so
right now we're going to just drop it down in here, we'll pick it up later on when we
get the fuel pump installed. Now while we're working on this side here,
you'll see we've got a couple of fat wires here, these will power up the ECU, here's
our jack right here, that's going to plug into the ECU. The other end, 2 big fat wires, guess where
the red one goes? That's right, to the positive terminal on
the battery, same way with the black, negative terminal on the battery. That way we make sure that we've got a great
connection, we're powering up the ECU just the way it needs to be and, well we'll be
good to go, we'll get over there to the other side there. Anytime that your making new connections there,
it's always a good idea to crimp them, and follow up with a solder, good job there Eric,
and then we'll put this shrink wrap on there and we'll be good to go. We'll put a little heat on the shrink wrap,
bring her down, yeah that's nice, good to go. This connection right here goes right to the
tack terminal on the HEI. Alright now, we're about to connect up the
cooling sensor wire here, Eric if you'll take and hook that up to the sensor right up in
the front there that we installed earlier. Now here something you guys want to think
about while your doing all the routing and everything, make sure that any of the wires
that have to do with the EFI don't come in contact with your spark plug wires because
there could be some leakage out of them and it'll send a false signal to the computer
and the next thing you know you're going to have problems that your going to try and sort
through. So when your done bundling all this stuff,
just make sure you have plenty of clearance between any of these wires and the potential
leakage out of like spark plug wires and that sort of thing. Alright, everything's looking pretty good
here. Now you might remember that big pigtail I
showed you coming out of the back of the throttle body earlier, well it's time to hook it up
and it doesn't get much simpler than this, one pig tail one push, one lock, we're ready
to go. Now here's something else that's pretty cool,
you'll see that we've got a couple of unused connectors here, one of them is marked inputs,
outputs, and what this is going to do is it's going to control our electric fans by the
ECU there. Now this one that's marked ignition, well
this one we're not using because we've got a self contained HEI and we're good with that,
but for you guys that are running like a CD box, well the kit comes with this little adaptor
right here, you plug it in and it goes over to the CD box, and the CD box gives it a TAC
signal, it'll sync everything up, get you running real smooth. Now here's something else that I thought was
really cool especially for you Chevy guys. If you're running a small body HEI distributor
like what came out in the mid 90's small blocks and big blocks and stuff. It allows you to go ahead and use this adaptor
that you can buy from Holley and it plugs right up in there like that and they've got
an adaptor that also works for Fords but what you can do with it, you can use that little
hand held controller there and it allows you to set the, it gives you a good base line
timing curve any way. It allows you to also adjust your idle and
your wide open ignition curves, get you running real sweet. That ought to do it. Now what I've done here is I've gone ahead
and tightened up this wire bundle here, I've mounted it with just a few clamps and it tucks
real nice under this ledge on the fire wall and with that black wrap, man it's camouflaged
really nice, you can hardly tell it's there. What I'm working on here is the mount for
the fuel pressure regulator, now this thing comes in the fuel delivery kit that we're
going to install later on here. Now this fuel pressure regulator here, we've
installed an optional transducer on it and what it does is it sends a signal through
this wire here back to the ECU. And what it'll allow us to do is monitor the
fuel pressure through that little hand held device that I showed you earlier. Now a lot of guys will use the gauge like
this to at least se the initial pressure on this regulator here, but you know, you can
loose pressure under a number of circumstances, especially at wide open throttle. You can loose fuel pressure due to a clogged
filter, pinched line, or maybe even your fuel pump's gone away, so what you want to do is
make sure that you're monitoring that fuel pressure regulator before that event becomes
catastrophic for you. Now we're going to mount it right here for
a couple of reasons. Easy connection with that wire I told you
about earlier and also we have to run a return line from the throttle body over to here to
the regulator and then again the return from the bottom of the regulator, we'll run a return
line back to the tank and well, once I get this regulator mounted up, I'm going to show
you what else is included in that fuel delivery kit that we talked about. Ok, now we're going to take a look at the
rest of the fuel delivery system. Now you might remember that we've spent some
money on some optional items like that transducer I showed you just a minute ago, money well
spent, but we want to stay within our budget so what we've done here is we've chosen the
least expensive of the 4 kits that are available for the Terminator, and just because it's
the least expensive, it doesn't mean that it's skimping on parts. For instance what the kit comes with is this
Earl's super stock hose here. Now I really like this stuff because it's
really really easy to use, they work in conjunction with these Earl's push lock fittings here,
you just slip them in, no clamp needed you just slip them in, nice clean dry, sanitary
installation. Now the clamps that come with the kit do work
with the special barbed fittings that we've got here and they are used to secure the hoses
to these filters. Now speaking of that we've got 2 filters here,
this is the pre-filter and this is the main, high pressure filter. Now the filters are really crucial here because
you don't want any debris at all getting up in those injectors. It'll just clog them up, tear them up and
cause you all kinds of problems. Now it also comes with this fuel pressure
or fuel pump block off plate here. Now the reason for that is because we're going
to just totally lose our mechanical pump here, and then we're going to replace it with this
pump. This is a high pressure pump that comes with
the kit. Now this thing will feed up to 650 horse power,
I figure that small block over there is making maybe 4 and a quarter horse power so it's
going to be more than adequate for our fuel needs, even if we decide to upgrade the motor
later on. Well that's it, I think we're ready to start
bolting on some parts here and man I'll tell you, I'm sure glad that Eric showed up here
today. Hey Eric, can you get the door? Well alright, now that we've got the car in
the air, we're going to go ahead and get rid of the mechanical fuel pump and then we'll
replace it with this fuel block off that I showed you earlier that comes in the kit. Well ok, now we're going to move a little
bit further back, we need to find a suitable location for our O2 sensor. Now we're going to locate it right here on
the collector and when you're choosing a location for that O2 sensor, you want to get it as
far back on the collector as you possibly can, now that's going to ensure that you get
a good sampling out of all 4 cylinders on this side. You also want to make sure that you install
it, I don't know, 5 to 10,12 degrees down. What that's going to do is it's going to prevent
condensation from getting in there, trust me if you start this thing up, get a little
bit of condensation in there and it collects in there, it'll really shorten the lifespan
of your O2 sensor. Now I'm going to move back and see if I can
find a suitable location for our fuel pump, in the meantime, hey Eric would you mind taking
this header off and we'll get that O2 bung welded in there and we can be ready to go
with that. Well I've looked everywhere under the back
here by the tank for a good mounting location for our pump here and quite honestly, there
really just isn't a suitable spot, but your car might be configured different so you might
be able to fab up a bracket there, you might be able to mount the pump close to the tank
there but here's a couple of things you'll want to think about. Keep this thing mounted as close to the tank
as possible because this pump is designed to push the fuel a whole lot better than it
pulls it. Plus you want to mount it below the level
of the fuel tank and that's going to give it a little bit of a gravity feed there, make
the pumps job a little bit easier. Also I put this foam sleeve on here in anticipation
of mounting the pump, but before you do that you'll notice on the pump there's an arrow
that show's the direction of the flow of the fuel, there is also the same arrows on the
pressure filter and also on the pre-filter here. Now you just want to make sure that your arrows
are all matched up and they all point in the direction of the fuel flow. Now one more thing that we want to talk about
here while I've got this thing out, the kit also includes these high pressure clamps right
here, and some extra super stock hose. Now if you use those to hook it all up, that's
going to ensure that you get a nice clean tight dry connection, keep the leaks from
happening and everything like that. Now what I've done here is I've kind of looked
along the frame rail here and it looks like this is going to be a great place, there's
a opening in the frame right here, and if we put this up in there, beside the frame
rail, a couple of things happen. First of all, it's about as close as we can
get to the tank and second of all I like this protection that this frame is going to give
to this whole assembly right here. Keep it protected from any rocks or any other
road debris that might be slung up by the tires. Now we're going to mount this thing using
the clamps that come in the kit and, shoot, that looks like a pretty good location there,
I think that we're good to go. Alright well Eric got the header off for us
and as you can see he's marked where the bung for the O2 sensor needs to go, so we're going
to center punch it and that hole needs to come out to 7/8ths of an inch so we're going
to use this step drill here until we get to that size. Alright now that we've got the hole out to
7/8ths of an inch, the bung just sits in there like that, and we're going to tig it to make
sure that we have a nice air tight weld. Alright, that looks pretty good. Well we're about ready to start burning some
wire, I'm going to insert this bung into the hole that we drilled there, make sure that
everything fits good, there we go. Now we're going to go ahead and make a couple
of TAC welds first just to hold this thing in place, but one thing that you want to keep
in mind is that, that bung needs to have a air tight weld all the way around it. If you let some air get into that, what it's
going to do is contaminate your mixture, or the reading that it sees and it's going to
send an erroneous reading through the computer, your not going to get the optimum fuel and
air mixture that way and well, I think this looks pretty good, I'm about ready to start
burning some wire. Well, we're about ready now to start running
our fuel and return lines here. Now what we're going to use is the original
pick up line and that's going to be our feed line there and this gas tank because it's
a California emissions car has another bung welded into the tank right here it's a 3/8ths
bung, it'll serve our purposes for a return line perfectly. Now not all tanks come with those fittings
though, so your job might not be as simple as that, now I'm going to show you a couple
of things that you can consider as an alternative. Now our guys tank gave us a couple of opportunities
for both the feed and the return lines there, but if your car is isn't configured like that,
there are some options. Now on a Chevelle at least, you can replace
that pick up there with this one. Now this pick up here is for cars that come
with quadrajets on it, after 69' and on up, but you can see it's got the big feed line
here and this would suffice as a return line, the only thing that you really need to do
is extend this down into the fuel level and about 3 or 4 inches, and get it down in the
fuel level otherwise there's a possibility that you might get some airation and the airation
of course is going to be right here near the pick up, not a good deal, it can actually
end up being, you know causing some fuel starvation issues. Now if you don't have a gas tank that lends
itself to either one of those deals there, we got this tank from Tanks INC. Now whats nice about it is it bolts right
in place of the stock tank and in fact it looks a lot like a stock tank, but it's got
provisions here for a in-tank sending unit and fuel pump. Now what's really cool about that is, this
is a high capacity fuel pump here, it'll feed up to 650 horsepower, but it's down in the
tank and also inside of the tank is a built in sump, now what that's going to do is it's
going to keep your pick up submerged in fuel and that's going to prevent a fuel starvation
problem for guys that might like to do some autocross or other high spirited driving if
you know what I mean. Now I guess I'm ready to run that hose. Alright, well that's good and solid. Now we've got the fuel pump mounted here,
we ran all of our fuel lines from the tank on up here to our pump and filter assembly
and everything we, kept everything away from any rotating items or any suspension parts
it might move up and down and cause a line to get pinched or something like that. But let me show you something that we've done
here, we actually grounded the fuel pump here to the frame on one of our mounting bolts
on the clamps. Now when you do that, you want to make sure,
this is an old car so it's got some rust on the frame, you want to make sure you clean
all of that off and get a good clean metal surface so you can get a solid ground. Anything that you do on a fuel injection system
you want to make sure you have good contacts both for the positive and the grounds, and
we've done that, of course along the same lines, this green line here comes from the
ECU, that feeds power to the pump. Now we'll go ahead and secure all of our lines
with some zip ties and some 8L clamps here later, but right now, looks like Eric's been
working on the O2 sensor, how you coming there buddy? I've got the O2 in there, and it's tight and
ready to go, just going to feed this O2 sensor wire up through here. Alright good job. Well alright, we're getting pretty close here,
now in fact, we're going to hear this thing fire up in just a few minutes, but first we've
got a few things that we need to take care of here up on top of the engine. Won't you take a look back here at this fuel
pressure regulator again. See this little brass fitting? What that is, is it's going to get a vacuum
reference signal and it's going to pull that signal off of the back of the throttle body
there, we just hook it up and what this does is it allows the fuel pressure regulator to
make sure that the injectors have the proper pressure injectors themselves. Now while we're at it, we're going to hook
up this connector here, this goes into the transducer and that allows us to read the
fuel pressure in that little hand held device that I showed you earlier. There's something else that I noticed when
I was underneath the car there. I'm going to take this fitting right here
and I swap it out for a straight fitting, and what that's going to do is, when we run
our return line, it's just going to give us a lot cleaner installation there, let us run
the fuel line for the returns straight down by the fire wall there and just give us a
cleaner installation, and while we're at it, I'm going to take this 90 and I'm going to
put it up here on the feed line on that throttle body. Now what that's going to do for us is it's
going to give us a real nice clean installation because look what we've got here. The feed line and the return line are both
going to be running back here towards the back of the engine, we'll be able to tuck
them down there, give us a nice clean installation. I've got one more tip for you, both of these,
the feed and the return lines are the same size, so what we've done here is we've marked
our pressure line with a little bit of blue tape here, that's going to help you keep them
separated so you know where to hook them up, trust me, you don't want to mix them up and
hook the feed to the return line and visa versa. Anyway, time to get to work here. Where this super stock hose works real good
with the Earl's push lock fittings, you slide that red sleeve over the end of it, give it
a little bit of lube inside there to make it all slide together easily, and then you
just push it on, just like the name says, cool. Now those fittings were pretty easy to put
together and attaching them is just as simple. What I've done here is I've tightened this
up finger tight and we want to give it another quarter turn. There we go that's perfect. Now you want to make sure that you use a wrench
on the adaptor fitting here on the fuel rail, to prevent any damage by over torquing that
fitting right there. Well I've topped off the radiator with that
coolant that we drained earlier when we replaced that temp sensor right there and I guess we're
about ready to hook the battery back up, but before I do I want to give you a little pre-cautionary
warning here. When you connect the battery cable here it
can cause a voltage spike and potentially damage that ECU, so what I've done is I've
disconnected the power source to that ECU and that way we can hook this thing up, let
it sit for a minute here, let the electrical system stabilize, then we're going to initialize
everything with that hand held programmer, once we get that done we can go ahead and
turn the key, energize the whole system and check for any fuel leaks. Well alright, looks like we've got all of
our connections made, now we're going to go ahead and power up the ECU. Eric, give me power there, don't start it
just give me power, put it in run position. Alright we're going to go down to the wizard,
that's going to get us going. Alright we're going to start the wizard. Do you wan to create a new calibration? Yes we do. Select the injection type, we're going to
go down here to the Terminator, that's what we're using, and we've got the 405 part number,
there we go. Select the engine size, we're going to go
up to 409 cubic inches. Cam shaft type, we don't know what the specs
are so we are going to tell it we don't know. Now will the ECU control the timing? No it won't. Select the RPM signal input, we're going to
get our input form the coils so we'll select that. Alright it says calibration has been created,
good deal. We're going to push that button there. Do you want this file to be loaded? Yes. Wow, there we go, it's loaded, just press
the button one more time. Alright now we're going to go down to the
TPS auto set. Make sure the ignition is on and the engine
is not started, we're good on that. Alright now we're going to slowly depress
the pedal to the floor, release it and do it twice. Eric, slowly to the floor, release it, do
it again, cool, we're done and it says the TPS auto set was successful. Alright, now, next thing that we've got to
do is we need to cycle the key a couple of times, let the fuel pump pick up the fuel,
and we're going to check it for fuel leaks. Well alright, now that O2 sensor is hooked
up and I guess we're ready to cycle the key a couple of times, let the fuel pump pick
up some fuel, and check for fuel leaks. Go ahead and cycle it Eric. That's a good sign the fuel pump's kicked
in, cycled. It looks pretty nice and dry up here, we've
got a couple of connections that I want to check underneath here. Well it looks good under there, I guess we're
about ready to fire this thing up. Alright go ahead and crank it Eric, let's
see what it's going to do. Wow that was pretty sweet, now what we're
going to do is we're going to let this thing get up to operating temperature, give the
computer a few minutes to learn some of the basics here, and I can't believe how smooth
this thing is, how quickly it started up. I think it's learning a little bit right now. As soon as it goes ahead and stabilizes we're
going to go ahead and cut it off, we'll throw the hood back on and we're going to take this
baby for a ride. Well that air cleaner sure fits nice. Now we've let the engine get up to operating
temperature, we've stabilized everything, the computer's probably learned as much as
it's going to in a static position. The next thing we have to do is drive it and
let it see all of our different driving conditions. Now we're going to take this thing for a ride
as soon as we get the hood back on and I've got to tell you, I'm ready to put the spurs
to this baby. Well alright, I can tell a big difference
already. The throttle response is a lot crisper than
we had with that 3310 Holley, I mean it's unbelievable how much better the throttle
response is. You know I've driven a lot of fuel injection
cars and this one, it just seems, it's got the same kind of start up, it's got the same
kind of reaction as a OE fuel injection car does and wow. This is like it transforms this car completely. So, wow this looks like it's going to be good,
this is going to be a lot of fun. What we're going to do is we're going to just
drive around, kind of take it easy, let the computer get familiar with the car, let it
get familiar with some of the driving conditions that we're going to see, and Holley recommends
that you drive the car for a couple of days to let the computer see all the different
driving conditions that it will be exposed to. So we're going to take this road, just nice
and smooth, easy ride down here and then after while we'll get on some windy roads, we'll
shift it up and down through the gears, we'll, after we get a little more comfortable we'll
even hammer the throttle a little bit and see how this thing goes. But man this thing is feeling pretty good
already. Well alright, we've been driving for about
an hour here and giving this thing a lot of different looks at different driving conditions
and I'll get it out and drive it and let it learn some more but right now, we're running
a little bit low on fuel so we're going to go on home, we're going to finish this little
drive up here, shut her off, but man this thing has made a huge improvement since when
we first fired it up, first hit the road, it's smoother and getting better all the time,
so am I happy? Yeah, I guess so! Terminator, we'll be back.
