Announcer: Today on Chuck's Garage, we install
Holley's new Terminator EFI system and take it on a test drive. Chuck: Hi, I'm Chuck Hanson. Welcome to Chuck's
Garage. You know, this old silver '70 has been a great platform for testing a lot of
products over the years, and today we got another project planned. We're going to take
this Holley 3310 and upgrade it with Holley's brand new Terminator EFI setup. But before
we start turning wrenches, let me show you what's all included in that kit. There are a lot of reasons for upgrading to
fuel injection. For instance, some of the fuel blends out there right now, especially
in the summertime can lead to fuel percolation in the bowls of the carburetor and fuel vapor
lock even. With fuel injection, well you're not going to have to deal with any of that,
plus you're going to get the potential for improved drivability, and the potential for
increased fuel mileage. Now, quite honestly, a lot of guys don't convert over to fuel injection,
because it's not easy to do. For instance, after you get all the hardware bolted up,
you still have to take the car down the road, have a buddy over in the seat over there with
a laptop, and he's remapping your fuel and your timing curves, and well, that's a pain. So you could also hire somebody to do your
tuning for you, but that's additional expense. So Holley's taken all of those concerns and
just got rid of them with this new terminator EFI system. And this is what makes it real
easy. This is the Terminator EFI ECU and what it does it takes all the input from the sensors,
combines it all, and tells the fuel injection setup exactly what it needs for the driving
conditions and what your engines is telling it that it needs. Now, Holley's made it real simple to install
this. For instance, this wiring harness, all the terminals are already on there, simple
plug and play deal, almost too simple. Now, of course you're also going to have O2 sensor,
temp sensors, throttle brackets here. Check out this cool little hand-held deal. Now,
what this is going to do, it's going to prompt you with a couple of simple questions, all
you got to do is answer them. It'll get you in the basic startup mode, and from there
you just drive the car, and that computer's going to learn everything that it needs to
know to tell the fuel injection what it needs. But hey, check this out. This is the coolest
part of that whole hardware package here. This is the throttle body. Now, besides that
cool grey color here, I'm going to share something with you. This throttle body is based on the
same one that's being used in NASCAR today. And as you can see from this gasket right
here, this thing will bolt up to any square flange Holley out there. Fuel system, they got four separate fuel delivery
systems here. We're going to start with the most simple, inexpensive setup. We'll talk
about them later. But I say, right now it's time to get that old carburetor off there,
start getting this new stuff on. Well, all right. We're going to get rid of
this hood here to make it a little easier to work on, and to give you guy's a little
bit better look. Now, I've got my buddy Eric here, he's going to help me out today here,
we're going to get this job done pronto. So let's get started on this carb. The first thing that we want to do is disconnect
the positive battery cable. Then we can remove the throttle cable, and spring, the vacuum
lines, the fuel line, and the carb retaining nuts. Now, we can just get that old carburetor
out of the way. Now, Holley touts this as being a complete kit so you don't have to
make any last minute runs to the parts house on a Saturday afternoon somewhere. So they
include the studs in their kit, and also the gasket, we're just going to replace all of
that. All right. Now, we're ready for the throttle
body, but before I bolt it up, there are a couple of things that I want to show you here.
First of all, if you check this out, all the actuators and sensors are all OE quality,
which means that if you have some problems out in the field that's on a weekend, all
you got to do is go down to your local parts store, you can source them there, and probably
get them pretty inexpensively too. The second thing is all the wiring. It's already pre-terminaled, it's routed,
and check it out, it comes into one pigtail, plug and play baby, that's what we're talking
about, really, really simple. Now, on the bottom side here, a couple of things I want
to point out here. First of all, Holley has moved the injectors down here below the throttle
plates, and check out these aluminum rings here. These are actually annular fuel discharge
rings there that's going to result in really good fuel atomization. Now, I also know that I told you earlier that
you can bolt this thing up to any intake that has a square Holley flange. That doesn't mean
that you guys with spread bore intakes are totally left out in the dark, but what you
can do is you can go down to any speed shop, you can pick up that one inch adapter that
[necks] it down from a square flange to a spread bore, no problem there. But I'll tell
you what, if you've got an intake that has the dual bolt pattern already drilled into
it, what I want you to do is you just set this thing on there, and you check right along
this edge, right in here. Sometimes there's a little void right there
that can cause a vacuum leak, if that's the case all, you're going to need, you won't
need that big fat adapter, just go down there, you can buy a steel plate, it's about a 16th
of an inch thick, and you mount it on there. You put paper gasket, steel plate, paper gasket,
you set the throttle body in place, it'll seal up perfectly. Now, before we cinch down that throttle body
there, we've got to deal with our throttle bracket here; throttle cable bracket. Now
if you remember, they came with two, one for one with an automatic, one for manual transmission
cars, that's the one we're going to use since we've got a four-speed here. Now all we got
to do is set the thing right on top of here and put the nut on. Now we can tighten down
that throttle body using a crisscross pattern, torque them down to five-seven foot pounds.
Now install the throttle cable ball on the throttle arm. Roll the cable up into the throttle cable
bracket, and snap the cable onto that ball. Now with the throttle body bolted down, we
can start reconnecting our vacuum lines. This one, for the power brakes goes right back
here in the corner of the throttle body. And this line right here for the vacuum advance
goes right here to ported vacuum. Now, the next thing that we're going to do
is install this temp sensor that comes with the Terminator kit. We're going to replace
this one down here that's already in the intake manifold. What this one's currently being
used for is to cycle our electric fans on the radiator. Once we get this one in place,
it's going to send the temperature information to the computer, and the Terminator can cycle
up to two fans, and set them at whatever temperature that you want. But before we can replace that sending unit,
we need to drain just a little bit of coolant out of the radiator. All right. Now we've
got enough of the coolant out of there that we can just remove this sensor, and replace
it with the one that comes in the kit, snug it down. The last thing we want to do on this
side is reconnect the throttle spring, and then we're done. With the ECUs, the next thing we're going
to mount up here, couple of things to keep in mind when you're choosing a place to mount
it. Now you can put it inside, but I tell you what, we've got an aftermarket air conditioner
unit here, doesn't allow us to get it up inside there, but if you've got room why not mount
it in the glove box, great place for them. I put several of them there myself before.
But since we're going to keep this thing in the engine compartment, here's what you want
to consider. You want to keep it away from any radical heat source there. You want to
make sure that you got plenty of room between the headers and this thing here. You don't
want a lot of heat getting to it. You also want to keep it away from any high-energy
noisy electronic devices, for instance this HEI distributor gives off a lot of electronic
noise just like a CD ignition system would. So give them plenty room around there. Here's something else, these here are the
plug-ins for the wiring harness. If you mount it up like this, it's going to collect water
in there, possibly short out something. And so you want to make sure you mount it with
those plug-ins down. Now one last thing along those same lines, since we've got these down,
you also want to make sure you're not mounting it in a place that's going to get splashed
heavily with water every time you drive through a mud puddle. Now, I've looked this thing
over, and I think, right about in here is going to be a great place for it, got plenty
of room between the headers and the ECU. We'll go ahead and drill our holes. Well now
that we've got the ECU mounted on the firewall there, we can go ahead, and run the wiring
harness. What I've decided to do is run it right up underneath the lip of the firewall
here. That's going to give it a pretty good bit of concealment there, make it as inconspicuous
as possible. And I've routed it behind the fender attaching point on the firewall here.
And we're going to route it down around here, all we got to do is plug in these two underneath. All right, now we're ready to finish up some
more of the wiring. Now you can see this little red and white wire that comes out of the bundle
right there. What I'm doing is feeding it through a grommet here into the inside of
the car, and Eric's going to pick it up in there. You got it Eric? All right, good deal, Eric, thanks. Now, once
it's inside of the car, you're going to want to make sure that it gets routed to a switched
12 volt source, and by that I mean, it's got to be a good clean 12 volt source that's on
when this ignition switch on, and also on when it's in the start position. So make sure that you don't run into a dirty
12 volt source when it's cranking, like for instance the coil. Some guys might want to
hook it up to the coil, but just go to the fuse box or any one of those sources inside
there. Check it with a continuity tester, make sure you got good 12 volts there when
the switch is on, and in the start position, okay? Now the green wire, what that's going to do
is it's going to power our fuel pump. And we don't have the fuel pump mounted yet, so
right now we're just going to just drop it down in here, we'll pick it up later on when
we get the fuel pump installed. Now while we're working on this side here,
you'll see we got a couple of fat wires here. These will power up the ECU. Here's our jack
right here, that's going to plug into the ECU. The other end, two big fat wires, guess
where the red one goes? That's right, to the positive terminal on
the battery, same with the black, negative terminal on the battery. That way we make
sure that we've got a great connection, we're powering up the ECU just the way it needs
to be, and well, then we'll be good to go, we'll get to the other side there. Any time that you're making new connections
there, it's always a good idea to crimp them, and follow up with a solder, good job there
Eric. And then we'll put this shrink-wrap on there, and we'll be good to go. And we'll
put a little heat on the shrink-wrap, bring her down, yeah, that's nice, good to go. This
connection right here goes right to the tach terminal on the HEI. All right now, we're
about to connect up the coolant sensor wire here. Eric, if you'll take and hook that up
to the sensor right up in the front there that we installed earlier. Now here's something you guys want to think
about while you're doing all the routing and everything. Make sure that any of the wires
that have to do with the EFI don't come in contact with your spark plug wires, because
there could be some leakage out of them, and it'll send a false signal to the computer,
and next thing you know, you got problems that you're going to try and sort through.
So when you're done bundling all this stuff, just make sure you have plenty of clearance
between any of these wires and the potential leakage out of like, spark plugs wires and
that sort of thing. All right, everything's looking pretty good here. Now you might remember that big pigtail I
showed you coming out of the back of the throttle body earlier, well it's time to hook it up.
And it doesn't get much simpler than this, one pig tail, one push, one lock, we're ready
to go. Now here's something else that's pretty cool. You'll see that we've got a couple of
unused connectors here. One of them is marked inputs-outputs, and what this is going to
do, it's going to control our electric fans by the ECU there. Now this one that's marked
ignition? Well this one we're not using because we've
got a self-contained HEI and we're good with that, but for you guys that are running like
a CD box, well the kit comes with this little adapter right here. You plug it in, and it goes over to the CD
box, and the CD box gives it a tach signal, it'll sync everything up, get you running
real smooth. Now, here's something else that I thought was really cool especially for you
Chevy guys. If you're running a small body, HEI distributor like what came out in the
mid-90s, small blocks and big blocks and stuff, it allows you to go ahead, and use this adapter
that you can buy from Holley, and it plugs right up in there, like that. And they've
got an adapter that also works for Fords. But what you can do with it, you can use that
little hand-held controller there, and it allows you to set…it gives you a good baseline,
timing curve, anyway, it allows you also to adjust your idle and your wide-open ignition
curves, get you running real sweet. Now, what I've done here is I've gone ahead
and tightened up this wire bundle here. I've mounted it with just a few Adel clamps, and
it tucks real nice under this ledge here on the firewall, and with that black wrap, man,
it's camouflaged really nice, you can hardly tell it's there. What I'm working on down
here is the mount for the fuel pressure regulator. Now this thing comes in the fuel delivery
kit that we're going to install later on here. Now, this fuel pressure regulator here, we've
installed an optional transducer on it, and what it does is it sends a signal through
this wire here back to the ECU. And what it will allow us to do is monitor
the fuel pressure through that little hand-held device that I showed you earlier. Now, a lot
of guys will use a gauge like this to at least set the initial pressure on this regulator
here, but you can lose pressure under a number of circumstances, especially wide open throttle.
You can lose fuel pressure due to a clogged filter, pinched line, or maybe even your fuel
pump's going away. So what you want to do is you want to make sure that you're monitoring
that fuel pressure regulator before that event becomes catastrophic for you. Now, we're going to mount it right here for
a couple of reasons. Easy connection with that wire that I told you about earlier, and
also we have to run a return line from the throttle body over to here to the regulator,
and then again the return from the bottom of the regulator. We'll run a return line
back to the tank. And well once I get this regulator mounted up, I'm going to show you
what else is included in that fuel delivery kit that we talked about. Okay. Now we're going to take a look at the
rest of the fuel delivery system. Now, you might remember that we've spent some money
on some optional items like that transducer I showed you just a minute ago, money well
spent. But we want to stay within our budget, so what we've done here is we've chosen the
least expensive of the four kits that are available for the Terminator. And just because
it's the least expensive doesn't mean it's scrimping on parts. For instance, what the
kit comes with is this Earl's Super Stock hose here. Now I really like this stuff, because
it's really, really easy to use, they work in conjunction with these Earl's push-lock
fittings here, you just slip them in, no clamp needed, you just slip them in, nice clean,
dry sanitary installation. Now the clamps that come with the kit do work
with these special barbed fittings that we've got here. And they are used to secure the
hoses to these filters. Now, speaking of that, we've got two filters here. This is a pre-filter,
and this is the main high-pressure filter. Now, the filters are really crucial here,
because you don't want any debris at all getting up in those injectors, it'll just clog them,
tear them up, and cause you all kinds of problems. Now, it also comes with this fuel pump block
off plate here. Now the reason for that is, because we're
going to totally lose our mechanical pump here, and we're going to replace it with this
pump. This is a high-pressure pump that comes with the kit. Now this thing will feed up
to 650 horsepower, I figure that small block over there is making maybe four and a quarter
horsepower, so it's going to be more than adequate for our fuel needs even if we decide
to upgrade the motor later on. Well, that's it. I think we're ready to start bolting on
some parts here, and man I tell you, I'm sure glad that Eric showed up here today. Hey,
Eric, can you get the door? Well, all right. Now that we've got the car
in the air, we're going to go ahead, and get rid of the mechanical fuel pump here, and
then we'll replace it with this fuel block off that I showed you earlier that comes in
the kit. Well, okay. Now we're going to move a little bit further back, we need to find
a suitable location for our O2 sensor. Now we're going to locate it right here on the
collector, and when you're choosing a location for that O2 sensor, you want to get it as
far back on the collector as you possibly can. Now, that's going to ensure that you get a
good sampling out of all four cylinders on this side. You also want to make sure that
you install it, I don't know, 5 to 10-12 degrees down. What that's going to do is it's going
to prevent condensation from getting in there. Trust me, if you start this thing up, get
a little bit of condensation in there, and it collects in there, it'll really shorten
the lifespan of your O2 sensor. Now I'm going to move back and see if I can find a suitable
location for our fuel pump. In the meantime, hey Eric, would you mind taking this header
off, and we'll get that O2 bung welded in there, and we can be ready to go with that. Well, I've looked everywhere under the back
here by the tank for a good mounting location for our pump here, and quite honestly, there
just really isn't a suitable spot. But your car might be configured different, so you
might be able to fab up a bracket there, you might be able to mount the pump close to the
tank there. But here's a couple of things you want to think about. Keep this thing mounted
as close to the tank as possible, because this pump is designed to push the fuel a whole
lot better than it pulls it. Plus, you want to mount it below the level of the fuel tank,
and that's going to give it a little bit of a gravity feed there, make the pump's job
a little bit easier. Also, I've put this foam sleeve on here in anticipation of mounting
the pump. But before you do that, you'll notice on the
pump there's an arrow that shows the direction of the flow of the fuel. There's also the
same arrows on the pressure filter, and also on the pre-filter here. Now you just want
to make sure that your arrows are all matched up, and they all point in the direction of
the fuel flow. Now, one more thing that we want to talk about here while I've got this
thing out, the kit also includes these high-pressure clamps right here, and some extra Super Stock
hose. Now if you use those to hook it all up, that's going to ensure that you get a
nice, tight, dry connection, keep the leaks from happening, and everything like that. Now what I've done here is I've kind of looked
along the frame rail here, and it looks like this is going to be a great place, there's
an opening in the frame right here. And if we put this up in beside the frame rail, a
couple of things happen. First of all, it's about as close as we can get to the tank,
and second of all, I like the protection that this frame is going to give to this whole
assembly right here. Keep it protected from any rocks or any of the road debris that might
be slung up by the tires. Now we're going to mount this thing using the clamps that
come in the kit. And shoot, that looks like a pretty good location there, I think we're
good to go. All right. Well Eric got the header off for
us, and as you can see, he's marked where the bung for the O2 sensor needs to go. So
we're going to go ahead and center punch it, and that hole needs to come out to seven-eighths
of an inch. So we're going to use this step drill here until we get to that size. All right. Now that we've got the hole out
to seven-eighths of an inch, the bung just sets in there like that. And we're going to
mig it all the way around, making sure we have a nice air-tight weld. All right. That
looks pretty good. Well, we're about ready to start burning some wire, I'm going to insert
this bung into the hole that we drilled there, make sure that everything fits good. There
we go. Now we're going to go ahead and make a couple
of tack welds first just to hold this thing in place, but one thing you want to keep in
mind is that, that bung needs to have an air-tight weld all the way around it. If you let some
air get into that, what it's going to do is contaminate the reading that it sees, and
it's going to send an erroneous reading to the computer, you're not going to get the
optimum fuel and air mixture that way. Well, I think this looks pretty good. I'm about
ready to start burning some wire. Well, we're about ready now to start running
our fuel and return lines here. Now, what we're going to use is the original pickup
line, and that's going to be our feed line there. And this gas tank, because it's a California
emissions car, has another bung welded into the tank right here, it's a three-eighths
bung, it'll serve our purposes for a return line perfectly. Now, not all tanks come with
those fittings though, so your job may not be as simple as that. Now, I'm going to show
you a couple of things that you can consider as an alternative. Now our gas tank gave us a couple of opportunities
for both the feed and the return lines there. But if your car isn't configured like that,
there are some options. Now, on a Chevelle at least, you can replace that pick up there
with this one. Now, this pick up is for cars that came with quadrajets on it; after '69
and on up. But you can see it's got the big feed line here, and this would suffice as
a return line. The only thing that you really need to do is extend this down into the fuel
level, you'd add about three-four inches, and get it down into the fuel level, otherwise
there's a possibility that you might get some aeration. And the aeration of course, is going to be
right here near the pick up, not a good deal. It can actually end up causing some fuel starvation
issues.Now, if you don't have a gas tank that lends itself to either one of those deals
there, we got this tank from Tanks, Inc. Now what's nice about it, it bolts right in place
of the stock tank. In fact, it looks like a stock tank, but it's got provisions here
for an in tank sending unit and fuel pump. Now, what's really cool about that is, this
is a high capacity fuel pump here, it'll feed up to 650 horsepower, but it's down in the
tank. And also inside of the tank is a built in
sump. Now what that's going to do is it's going to keep your pick up submerged in fuel,
and that's going to prevent any fuel starvation problems for guys that might like to do some
autocross or other high-spirited driving, if you know what I mean. Now, I guess I'm
ready to run that hose. All right. Well it's good and solid. Now,
we've got the fuel pump mounted here. We ran all of our fuel lines from the tank on up
here to our pump and filter assembly. We kept everything away from any rotating items or
any suspension parts that might move up and down, and cause a line to get pinched or something
like that. But let me show you something that we've done here. We actually grounded the
fuel pump here to the frame on one of our mounting bolts on the clamps. Now, when you
do that you want to make sure…this is an old car, so it's got some rust on the frame. You want to make sure you clean all that off,
get a good clean metal surface so you get a solid ground. Anything that you do on a
fuel injection system, you want to make sure you have good contacts, both for the positive
and the grounds, and we've done that. Of course, along the same lines is green line here comes
from the ECU, that feeds power to the pump. Now, we'll go ahead, and secure all of our
lines with some zip ties, and some Adel clamps here later. But right now, looks like Eric's
been working on the O2 sensor. How you coming there buddy? Eric: I've got the O2 in there, it's tight
and ready to go. I'm just going to feed this O2 sensor wire up through here. Chuck: All right. Good job. Well, all right. We're getting pretty close
here now. In fact, we're going to hear this thing fire up in just a few minutes. But first,
we've got a few things that we need to take care of here on top of the engine. I want
you to take a look back here at this fuel pressure regulator again. See this little
brass fitting? What that is, is it's going to get a vacuum
reference signal, and it's going to pull that signal off the back of the throttle body there.
We just hook it up, and what this does, it allows the fuel pressure regulator to make
sure that the injectors have the proper pressure at the injectors themselves. Now, while we're
at it, we're going to go ahead and hook up this connector here. This goes into the transducer, and that allows
us to read the fuel pressure in that little hand-held device that I showed you earlier.
There's something else that I noticed when I was underneath the car there. I'm going
to take this fitting right here, and I'll swap it out for a straight fitting, and what
that's going to do is, when we run our return line, it's just going to give us a lot cleaner
installation there, let us run the fuel line for the return straight down by the firewall
there, and just give us a cleaner installation. And while we're at it, I'm going to take this
90, and I'm going to put it up here on the feed line on that throttle body. Now what
that's going to do for us, it's going to give us a real nice clean installation, because
look what we've got here. The feed line and the return line are both
going to be running right back here towards the back of the engine. We'll be able to tuck
them down there, give us a nice, clean installation. I got one more tip for you. Both of these,
the feed and the return lines are the same size. So what we've done here is we've marked
our pressure line with a little bit of blue tape here, that's going to help you keep them
separated so you know where to hook them up. Trust me, you don't want to mix them up and
hook the feed to the return line, and vice-versa. Anyway, time to get to work here. With this Super Stock hose, works real good
with the Earl's push-lock fittings. Just slide that red sleeve over the end of it, and give
it a little bit of a lube inside there to make it all slide together easily, and then
you just push it on, just like the manual says. Cool. Now those fittings were pretty
easy to put together, and attaching them is just as simple. What I've done here is I've
tightened this up finger tight, and we want to give it another quarter turn. There we
go, that's perfect. Now you want to make sure that you use a wrench on the adapter fitting
here on the fuel rail to prevent any damage by over torqueing that fitting right there. Well, I've topped off the radiator with that
coolant that we drained earlier when we replaced that temp sensor right there. And I guess
we're about ready to hook the battery back up, but before I do, I want to give you a
little precautionary warning here. When you connect the battery cable here, it can cause
a voltage spike, and potentially damage that ECU. So what I've done is I've disconnected
the power source to that ECU and that way we can hook this thing up. We'll let it sit
for a minute here, let the electrical system stabilize. Then we're going to initialize
everything with that hand-held programmer. Once we get that done, we can go ahead and
turn the key, energize the whole system, and check for any fuel leaks. Well, all right.
Looks like we got all of our connections made. Now we're going to go ahead and power up the
ECU. Eric, give me power there, don't start it, just give me power. Put it in the run
position. All right, we're going to go down to the wizard,
that's going to get us going. All right. We're going to start the wizard. Do you want to
create a new calibration? Yes we do. Select the injection type. We're
going to go down here to determinator, that's what we're using. And we've got the 405 part
number, there we go. Select the engine size. We're going to go up to 409 cubic inches.
Camshaft type? We don't know what the specs are, so we're
going to tell it we don't know. Now will the ECU control the timing? No it won't. Select the RPM signal input.
We're going to get our input from the coil, so we'll select that. All right. It says calibration
has been created. Good deal. We're going to press that button there. Do you want this
file to be loaded? Yes. Wow, there we go, it's loaded. Just press
the button one more time. All right, now we're going to go down to the
TPS auto set. Make sure the ignition is on, and the engine is not started. We're good
on that. All right. Now we're going to slowly depress the pedal to the floor, release it,
and do it twice. Eric, slowly to the floor, release it, do it again. Cool. We're done.
And it says the TPS auto set was successful. All right. Now the next thing we got to do
is we need to cycle the key a couple of times, let the fuel pump pick up the fuel, and we're
going to check it for fuel leaks. Well, all right. Now that O2 sensor is hooked
up, and I guess we're ready to cycle the key a couple of times, let the fuel pump pick
up some fuel, and check for fuel leaks. Go ahead and cycle it there, Eric. That's a good
sign, the fuel pumps kicked in, cycled. Everything looks pretty nice and dry up here. Got a couple
of connections I want to check underneath here. Everything looks good under there. I
guess we're about ready to fire this thing up. All right, go ahead and crank it, Eric,
let's see what it's going to do. Wow, that was pretty sweet. Now, what we're going to do is we're going
to let this thing get up to operating temperature, give the computer a few minutes to kind of
learn some of the basics here. And I can't believe how smooth this thing is, how quickly
it started up. I think it's learning a little bit right now. As soon as goes ahead and stabilizes,
we're going to go ahead and cut it off. We'll throw the hood back on. We're going to take
this baby for a ride. Well that air cleaner sure fits nice. Now, we've let the engine
get up to operating temperature, we've stabilized everything. The computer's probably learned
as much as it's going to in a static position. Next thing we have to do is drive it, and
let it see all of our different driving conditions. Now we're going to take this thing for a ride
as soon as we get the hood back on, and I got to tell you, I'm ready to put the spurs
to this baby. Well, all right. I can tell a big difference
already. The throttle response is a lot crisper than we had with that 3310 Holley. It's unbelievable
how much better the throttle response is. I've driven a lot of fuel injection cars,
and this one, it just seems, it's got the same kind of start-up, it's got the same kind
of reaction as an OE fuel injection car does, and wow, it transforms this car completely.
So, wow, this looks like it's going to be good. It's going to be a lot of fun. What
we're going to do is we're just going to drive around, kind of take it easy, let the computer
get familiar with the car, let it get familiar with some of the driving conditions that we're
going to see. And Holley recommends that you drive the car
for a couple of days to let the computer see all the different driving conditions that
it'll be exposed to. So we're going to take this road, just nice, smooth, easy ride down
here, and then after a while, we'll get on some windy roads, we'll shift it up and down
through the gears. After we get a little more comfortable with it, we'll even hammer the
throttle a little bit, and see how this thing goes. Man, this is feeling pretty good already. All right, we've been driving for about an
hour here now, and giving this thing a lot of different looks at different driving conditions.
And I'll get it out and drive it, and let it learn some more, but right now, we're running
a little bit low on fuel, so we're going to go on home. We're going to finish this little
drive up here, shut her off. But man, this thing has made a huge improvement since when
we first fired up, first hit the road. It's smoother and getting better all the time.
So, am I happy? Yeah, I guess so. Terminator, we'll be back.
