Technics SL-D20 1980s Turntable Restoration and Repair

hi it's John beta and today we're going to look at this techniques SL D20 turntable from the 80s that suffered some shipping damage unfortunately [Music] so the sld20 direct drive automatic turntable system actually only is semi-automatic that means it turns off when it reaches the end of the record and places the tone arm back in its holder when the record is finished playing it's a direct drive techniques which makes this quite a good turntable by today's standards I'm quite a bit of a fanboy of these 80s techniques turntables all the models I've seen are super well built they are like not high-end models but they are consumer grade stuff from the 80s where vinyl records were actually a thing and as you probably know vinyl records and turntables are seeing huge Renaissance in recent years so there's a lot of new models available new model turntables are available most of them don't live up to the standards unless you pay really huge sums of money which I am not ready to do so I would always recommend if you are a bit technically inclined I would always recommend looking for a decent turntable from back in the day actually because usually the lower end models are much better built than the lower end models that you can buy today and unless you buy a very high-end model you're not going to get the quality you get from 80s like lower end models this is kind of a mid-tier model I guess it has a direct drive it's semi-automatic and it has adjustable pitch it has two speeds it has a stop button so this is a very down to earth super usable very easy to set up as we're going to see turntable from the 80s a consumer model one of the better ones that Technics had back in the day certainly not one of their higher end models which are like the 1210 or the 13 or the 14 models that are still sought after and some of them are still available today or newly available again after all those those years they they were basically the same since the 70s if you can believe it usually techniques turntables from this vintage goal at 100 Euros or even more on eBay these days no matter what the model is uh you want to look for a direct drive model because they are basically indestructible the direct drive mechanisms Motors the techniques built are super high quality super reliable usually so there's no nothing much that can go wrong with that I bought this for 50 euros it was listed as an untested device but the tone arm moved and the platters spun things like that were tested so chances are this is just going to be a working turntable unfortunately though because this was from a private seller probably from some relative that got rid of this or some basement storage or something like that the person who shipped this was definitely not aware about the peculiarities that you have to keep in mind when shipping turntables and as you've probably spotted already the case plastic case broke so here's the part that broke off thankfully the pieces that broke off were still in the box that is shipped in without any padding basically it's not recommended to ship something that is quite heavy this weighs a couple of kilograms in an unpadded box there was a little bit of padding on the side to make up for the size difference a piece of the cover here also broke off so it's no longer hinged we have to remove this but other than that it looks pretty good actually it came with the original power cord I think it also came which is quite nice with the original betinos and lightong which is the user's manual in German quite a nice fold out thing that doesn't have too much info in it but it's still nice to have and it also came with this slip mat R and S records ordered to dance which is of very low quality so I'm probably going to get rid of this all together uh and I'm going to try to fix everything that's broken with this and service it and also give it a good clean because it's dirty just let me tell you about how to properly ship the turntable basically you remove all the moving parts that you can and Pad them separately use a large enough box possibly a box in a box lots of padding around this rather heavy object uh because if the Box gets dropped during shipping it's going to be the end of these usually and when I got it uh the tone arm which has a little lock here was floating on this platter here which is not good because the needle probably broke in the process uh this also I already uh half-heartedly patch this up this is uh ripped but it's going to do probably for a while probably good idea to get a replacement for that you can remove these platters in all turntables basically that are of some kind of quality not seen one that this wasn't removable so you want to pull this out straight straight up and you can see on this one this has the motor windings here and the stator on the platter actually so basically these direct drive ones have a motor that doesn't touch anything so it's all electromagnetically moved here so we have magnets in here in the platter which is quite heavy cast aluminum and uh we have the windings here both of them together are the motor basically and then we have this shaft which fields quite locked so we have to do a good bit of cleaning as you can see there's quite some dust in here but we're going to get rid of that shortly so you want to remove this when you ship this and wrap it separately you want to lock the tone arm you want to maybe place a bit of painters tape around these locking mechanisms which usually these have but they are not going to survive shipping fortunately the tone arm itself seems to be straight still and everything seems to be hunky-dory with that the needle and possibly the pickup are probably gone because of the messy shipping yeah there's this adapter for 45 singles with the larger cut out that these ship with this is definitely not the original Puck that this came with it says dual or dual I don't know how the English-speaking world pronounces that it's a German brand so dual one of the nicest things about these techniques players of that era the lower end models at least they all have these t4p pickup systems that you don't have to do any setting up basically you just put you replace the needle by just putting the needle on here this one's bent I can already see that the pickup system itself is just put in this holder with one single screw and basically if you put a t4p system in here any kind of t4p system everything the whole Symmetry and the weight and things like that are set up correctly in these record players so this is a plug and play kind of system and you can get quite good systems for these for this form factor as we're also going to see let me take a couple of seconds to thank the sponsor for this video PCB way my favorite manufacturer of prototype circuit boards of all kinds they also offer CNC Machining 3D printing you name it they basically produce everything that a tinkerer needs for replacement parts and new parts the quality of all these Services is excellent they are friendly people to work with I highly recommend checking out the link in the video description now back to our record player I think the first thing I want to do is to see if this spins up at all which it should because the seller advertised it as working basically so let's see so I plug this into the mains with the power cord that was supplied setting the tone arm to lift it's lifting very slowly so I think the lubricant in there is gunked up and it also seems a bit High but if I move this this should start spinning yeah and it stops because the uh stop mechanism was engaged but it turns it doesn't seem too bad actually so that's pretty nice seems to work so far so you can probably see these little dots here these are actually indicating the correct speed there's a an LED presumably in here that uh flickers at 50 hertz in my case because we're in Germany and the mains frequency is 50 hertz there's also uh different rings for there's one for 33 RPM and one for 45 RPM and then there's two pairs of those for 50 hertz Mains frequency and 60 hertz Mains frequency we're going to be concerned with the upper two ones and the second row is actually for 33 which this is set to and we can now adjust the speed and you can see that these start moving and you want to adjust the speed so that they actually don't move visibly and then you are at exactly 33 RPM this fluctuates a bit because probably it needs a good amount of lubrication but you can probably see that it's pretty accurate already just by turning this pitch adjust wheel here slightly let's see if the 45 also works it takes a while to spin up but yeah it's pretty much the spot on as well on the uppermost row there need some adjustment but it basically Works let's see if our automatic stop works we should see this stop when I yep it definitely does uh when it reaches the inner the inner region of the record where usually the record is ending basic functionality is here which is very promising ah I'm going to give this a quick clean I guess it's the first step and remove some of the Dust with my vacuum cleaner and a brush from the top part and then we're going to take a look inside I guess so I am using one of these PC cleaning kits which are Super handy for this kind of job basically it hooks up to your regular vacuum cleaner and you get this hose and a little brush that has a vacuum in the center so we can brush and remove the dust with one pass okay that should have taken care of the surface dust now what I want to do is to take a look at the inside we're going to do more cleaning on this with a wet sponge or something it still seems pretty crusty but the dust is gone and the hair and things like that and I'm going to put the cover back on I removed the platter obviously and now we should be able to turn this around with the uh dust cover actually protecting all the mechanical Parts on the top side so this is going to sit on this dust cover and it is super scratched so I'm not going to bother putting something soft under there it is intact though except for the hinge Parts which usually break off on these there are several replacement options for these uh one of which I have ordered already so we're going to take a look at that shortly let's turn this around carefully and here's a serial number sticker sld20k B I presume G serial number ga3228b009 yeah this whole thing is just a plastic cover that we can remove after removing these nicely red colored screws also obviously the back panel here uh with the RCA connectors this is the ground connector which is a proprietary thing so I'm probably going to end up either running a wire directly out of the case or putting another connector in there the cables for these are still available and I think you can get away with use the using like a three millimeter banana plug the original plug is something very similar to Banana plug I think just a metal rod kind of thing with the wire just to connect the ground from your amplifier or receiver to this obviously made in Japan because Technics is a Panasonic brand in case you didn't know their Hi-Fi brand that they discontinued sometime in the 90s I believe or early 2000s and now Technics is back basically they are making record players again as I said basically the same as they did in the 70s with some upgraded models which are quite interesting but also super expensive okay this lifts out completely and there's all that's to it yeah as you can see there's not much to a record player at all you want something that turns the platter evenly at the correct speed which uh I think this chip here is basically responsible for the rest of this is power supply for the motor which we've looked at from the top and there's a bit of mechanical stuff for the tone arm lift and things like that and then basically the tone arm pick up is directly connected to the outputs and we have a ground screw that goes to this larger metal part here not much else to this there's some small potentiometers here to set up the speed independently of this wheel which we're probably going to have to do at some point and this is the whole controller board basically connected to the motor assembly through this ribbon here yeah these are the little potentiometers you can set up there even labeled I think 33 and 45 yes that's basically all this too it's some filtering for the power supply uh which has a little rectifier because it's a DC motor and then there's this chip which is the uh logic that keeps the speed and especially in this region here you can see the brown spots which is the old lubricant that we are going to have to remove and replace with new grease I'm usually using silicon grease on these plastic parts because it doesn't attack the plastic I think probably that's what they used originally and of course some dust bunnies have also uh gathered in the old lubricant so this is the mechanism where the case broke off this is the stop button that actuates this Rod here which then goes into the mechanical part there and stops the record from spinning so I think what I want to do is to try and glue this back in we have the parts and possibly I'm going to glue something on there from the back side we should have enough room for that because the switch here clears this so we can glue a plastic or probably aluminum or something like that part behind that with some epoxy I'm going to clean this up with the vacuum cleaner and then we'll see if we can glue that plastic part back in there all the two parts actually foreign so here's my two parts I think this one goes in here like so and this one goes and you like so yeah I'm using some plastic glue I think here this is uhu plus yeah this is a German brand uh model making glue that I'm using here use that on a variety of plastic parts already and it usually works pretty well for quite a few different Plastics let's see if it works on this it's already a bit gummed up yeah but this seems to work quite well already sticks quite a bit that's good and the good thing is that this basically presses itself into position that's pretty handy I want to let this dry and then reinforce it with something that I glue on the back side there you can still see the cracks but yeah better than a completely missing part there so here's what it looks like uh you can see the cracks and this fits perfectly obviously there's no parts missing thankfully so we don't have to reconstruct this totally I ended up uh clamping an aluminum plate with two of these clamps here to this to keep it straight while it settles I also found a date called looking thing at least for the mold the plastic mold we have these arrows pointing at numbers here molded into the plastic and this is a two there are 12 so this is probably the month so that's that's February probably then we have a 3 which is probably the least significant digit of the day and this is one two three so that's probably the uh days times 10 so it's the 13th February 13th this points to somewhere between the eight and the nine I suppose it's the eight probably the year 82 82 so uh yeah I guess that would make sense 82 13th February of 1982 was probably when this mold was made and I think I want to start the re-lubrication process while the glue still settled because I'm impatient I hope this doesn't backfire I'm using a bunch of Q-tips some alcohol to remove the old lubricant basically anything that's brown in here which is super gummed up so it's super uh it's stiffened over the years definitely we want to get rid of that completely and then replace it with some fresh silicone grease so this takes a lot of patience usually but it's good idea to remove as much of the old lubricant as you can then we put the new lubricant in all the spots where there was brown Gunk I'm not going to show you the whole process here just to give you an idea of how stiffen this lubricant is just remove this here definitely good idea to replace that and somebody at the factory didn't pay attention and put someone here where it doesn't belong yeah I'm just going to clean everything off camera I guess and then re-lubricate it foreign most of the gunk so I'm now going to use this silicon grease which is standard stuff available everywhere basically I think this came from Amazon in my case and I'm using this all the time for these kinds of jobs so I'm just going to put this everywhere it was basically only small amounts so I think I lubricated pretty much all the moving parts now at least all the ones that were lubricated took great care to lubricate the whole mechanism here basically so this should now be pretty smooth operation I think my glue should be settled at this point so we can remove this yeah and it's very straight so I settled for this strip of plastic that I cut out that should give us plenty of rigidity for this purpose I'm probably going to cut it a bit shorter but this should fit in here and our switch should still move obviously we could remove those which but I'm not going to bother my epoxy is gone I think no that's completely dried so I'm using the next best thing which is this magic glue that I'm just going to apply to this smear it out and apply and I'm going to clamp it down quickly because this is going to cure in seconds yep that fits pretty sturdy to me nice yeah this is my solution to that problem I guess at least for now so glue this strip of plastic over the whole length of the crack and a bit extra which should hopefully make this stable for the foreseeable future for the next couple of decades hopefully yeah I guess my next step should be really thoroughly cleaning the bottom part and I think what I want to do is to just put this into some soapy water and wash it actually and then let it dry and the same for the dust cover probably so for my next trick I'm going to show you how this is wired up actually these are the RCA outputs and the little ground lock or the ground Jack this is just some shielding and yeah as I said this ground connector is a proprietary plug it's just I think a two millimeter or three millimeter Rod basically the plug that connects to a ground spot on this metal frame here we are going to I think I want to drill another hole I guess somewhere like here for another ground connector I think that would be the most reasonable way to approach this yeah this cutout goes through the whole length so we can probably put another ground connection here so I'm just going to drill a hole and put I think I want to put a four no drag there or something just like a standard connector you can easily make a ground cable for not this proprietary one which you would need to buy an expensive one for and we're not going to change any of the original circuitry the original ground connector would still work I think that's the plan and should line up with the others roughly so probably somewhere like here so and just using my all here to puncture this a bit to have a good place to start the drill and I'm going to put one of these in here which is technically a stereo phono Jack uh but I'm just going to wire all the connections together so it's just a single connection basically acting as a ground connector and then we can just use any 3.5 millimeter funnel plug to connect a ground wire to this and this is a six millimeter connector so we need a six millimeter hole there we go yeah I'm just going to use a short black wire from my part spin crimp on a little ring connector so it is basically going to be the same as the other part here and I'm just going to screw it to the same terminal on this metal chassis it doesn't really matter where you put that just has to make contact with that so it's grounded and obviously I'm going to solder the other end to all the connectors on here because we only need one connection basically and this is a stereo socket of course you could easily fit like a screw Post in here or something like that something more standard for ground connection or a banana socket banana plug socket something like that but I'm going with this because I think it's going to look super elegant and it's going to work fine for my use case because I have plenty of little 3.5 millimeter plugs to make a ground cable and then there's going to be some actual soldering yep that's looking quite decent yeah that's obviously not the purpose for these normally and just double checking if this is enough wire yes I'm going to put this in here and there we go new ground connector which doesn't look all that bad and I'm going to uh connect the ring connector to the ground where the old ground was connected or is connected it's still going to be connected there we go let's see if we have ground everywhere yes everywhere and the audio ground is actually separate on these separate grounds for both channels even but we should have a connection between here and here yes and inside everything should be connected to ground on our new socket which it is nice we're going to put this back on and should still fit that's pretty nice and that pretty much concludes what I want to do to the mechanical parts and the electronics on the flip side of the record player I don't have the capacitors in stock otherwise I would probably replace the electrolytic capacitors on this little board here and another thing you could do is to replace the thermal compound on this transistor here as well as on the main IC on the sport but as I said I don't have the capacitive values necessary in stock at the moment so I'm going to revisit this you have to remove the screws that hold down this heatsink on the AC from the flip side of this PCB so yeah I'm basically going to do that when I have the capacitor values ordered replace all the electroluted capacitors which is not strictly necessary because they are still good and this is just basically a motor driver board there's nothing audio wise going through this so we're going to be fine I am going to spray some contact cleaner into these little potentiometers here and I'm also going to clean the output RCA jacks here thoroughly with some contact cleaner and then I'm going to close the bottom side so this is a very non-corrosive contact cleaner that can be used without any issues on potentiometers and such and I'm going to slightly move these back and forth so the contact cleaner can do its magic but I'm going to make sure that they are sitting in approximately the spot they were in I'm also going to spray some contact cleaner into this potentiometer for the speed adjustment and move it and I'm basically going to do the same with these RC Ajax just spray some contact cleaner in there carefully and put some plugs in kind of move them so the contacts get a bit cleaner and as I said it would be a good idea to replace the electrolytic capacitors as well as the thermal compound I'm not going to do this on camera as I explained because I don't have the capacitors should be pretty easy to do if you know your way around a soldering iron I'm just going to put this lid back on and put all the screws back in it is a bit scratched and things like that but it is way way cleaner than it was this was filthy and you want to turn these screws to the left until they think into the threats that are already cut so you don't risk damaging the plastic and you also don't want to put too much pressure on these and don't tighten them too much because the plastic is going to be a bit brittle after all these years at this point so we don't want to risk damaging it so now we can flip this over again and work on the top side which also finally gives me the opportunity to give this a bath in some soapy water and clean it because it is super filthy I think it's not that scratched really it is just filthy and basically the same is true for all the surfaces here so I'm going to use some window cleaner and a microfiber cloth and try to get as much grime off the surface of this record player as possible and I'm going to try to not get anything into the electronics so let's see what we get with this it is dirty as heck I'm not going to bore you with this whole process just let me see what I can do here it is as you can see there's quite some dirt coming off there oh and I'm using isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush on these buttons and uh sliders which apparently works wonders I'm also using alcohol to clean up the whole surface like the final pass is going to be with alcohol but yeah this works uh really well actually yeah I think uh that's about as clean as I can get this in a reasonable way I use Q-tips a toothbrush a microfiber cloth window cleaner alcohol and I still wasn't able to get this stain off the stop button here I'm not sure what that is but it didn't come off I know how to get that off maybe some more work some more hours with a toothbrush or something like that but other than that it looks way way better than before it even looks a bit shiny again there are some Nicks and scratches from age and use but otherwise it does look kind of acceptable again which is nice I'm also going to clean the platter with some alcohol and uh yeah this gets a quick wipe with alcohol too and we're going to put a bit of lubrication in the shaft you of course want to be careful around these hall effect sensors which I believe they are so just going to give this a careful wipe and as you can see there's quite some dirt on there maybe this was a Chainsmokers machine I'm not sure this is just as dirty [Music] and as for the shaft we want to put a little drop of oil into this you can probably see the ring there in the center that's the actual part where it moves so we're going to put a bit of sewing machine oil into that very spot there just one little drop move it a bit to work it in so that should be lubricated let's see if it still spins okay it spins better than before okay I'm going to put the rubber mat back on that I'm also going to have to clean uh I'm going to use some dish soap on this this is just a rubber or silicon net so nothing much can go wrong there by the way as you've probably noticed I removed the needle to not unnecessarily endanger that yeah so it apparently still works stop also still works I'm letting the dust covers soak in some soapy water in the bathroom and while we're at it we can set the lift height of the tone arm with a sacrificial record basically this is a very scratched old pity plot the Eastern German viewers are going to recognize this we are going to set the height of the needle and for that purpose I'm just going to unplug this again uh there's a screw here on this tone arm lift that we can set and we need to set this up to between five and eight millimeters between the needle tip of the needle and the record actually so let's try and do that so here's the screw we are going to turn if I turn it right it's going to lower the height and left is going to slightly raise the tone arm lift and we're aiming for between five and eight millimeters so probably something like 6.5 millimeters is the ideal thing to aim for this is way too high this is 6.5 millimeters here that's more like it probably quite accurate you don't have to be super precise with this measurement it's just the lift of the tone arm so it doesn't take forever to set down on the record and it's still a bit slow there's actually a cylinder in the tone arm mechanism with uh some silicon grease of a certain viscosity that regulates the speed of that basically so yeah but it's totally acceptable at this point I think this is the lift and this is setting the needle down okay all good and while we have this record on here which is sacrificial let's see if we actually get something with this broken very likely broken needle which was completely dislocated yeah I can actually hear sound so that's good as I said the toner arm should be factory set to the precise uh weight that this needs and the anti-skating should also be set up you can still adjust it manually if you so desire but you usually don't have to pretty satisfied so far that's good so I also determined now that the auto stop is in the correct spot so it should now lift the arm and return the arm to the zero positioned to the holder here and stop the record yep and it does and it's in the correct spot if that spot is misaligned you can realign that with a little screw that's under a rubber cap on the tone arm assembly here so this little rubber cap you lift that with something that's preferably not a screwdriver to not scratch the case and then there's a Phillips screw under there that you can turn to set the point of the Auto Stop mechanism that's correctly aligned on this one so I won't fiddle with that what I did adjust though is the speed there is two little potentiometers on the circuit board to set the speed for 33 and 45 rounds per minute and you want to set that up in a way so that if you uh switch between the two they are aligned correctly and as you can see I pretty much nailed that uh the upper ring here this roboscope is the 45 and that's pretty much it's not quite one 100 accurate but if you switch the speed to 33 the 33 is the second from the top here and that takes a while to settle but then it is very accurately set and you can actually access the screws to set these through these holes here and uh the hole in the platter here so uh you want to turn this on repeatedly and slightly adjust these one is 445 and the other one is for 33 rounds per minute setting you want to set these up so that your pitch adjust is the same for both and both are accurate if you have this set up accurately for one of the speeds I also gave the dust cover a very good scrubbing and soak in soapy water unfortunately as you can probably even see on camera there's quite a few spots where this is severely scratched so we're going to have to do some polish on that later I guess you can probably see that there's some severe scratches it looks like tire marks from a toy car or something like that really this is pretty much clean now so all that's left to do is to remove the hinges in the back because they're broken off and to polish this a bit to get rid of these scratch marks that are super severe so let's do some work on the cover so these dust covers usually have these things on the back plastic tabs that slide into slots in the actual hinges that are on the main unit and as you can see this piece here I think it was still attached before this got shipped but uh with that kind of Packaging it's naturally broke off and these this is a very common thing to happen to these these things just snap off but there is a fix for that that's pretty elegant I think there are actually Replacements you basically screw these you drill some holes you remove the uh remnants of this completely file it flat and there's a plate that goes into the inside and this hinge thing goes on the outside and this is made from steel so these should be pretty sturdy if the case plastic holds that uh but yeah these have threaded inserts so you have some little screws that go in there from the inside through this mounting plate and you have to position these correctly of course there's also 3D printed replacement things that look quite the same but I found these steel ones I'm going to link the shop I bought these from in the video description I think the steel variant uh is a bit more elegant and a bit more suitable for a nice record player like this and they're not that much more expensive than the 3D printed ones so obviously the first thing we have to do is to remove these tabs completely and file these down so we have a flat surface to drill some holes for these in and I think I'm going to go with the Dremel and a couple of files and I'm going to uh protect the surroundings here with some masking tape before I do that while we remove these you don't want to run the Dremel too quickly because otherwise you're going to risk melting the plastic [Music] okay that one is extracted on to the next one [Music] now I'm going to file this down with some manual files I guess uh yeah I am going to report back when I have these file down so after some meticulous filing I have this one pretty much down there's still a little rich but you can see we are starting to eat into our masking tape here and that's probably a good point to stop I ended up using my pocket knife here the file on that is super well suited for Plastics and then I use regular smaller file and the nail file okay I think I got both of these down to a reasonable height they are not quite completely flush you can still feel The Ridges here but it should be enough this acrylic is the bend a bit inwards anyway so probably we're going to be able to fit the screws there and not put too much stress on the plastic now to position this correctly and uh determine the position where the holes are going to go we're going to have to dust this off and place it back on the turntable actually these have a bit of play so that's going to be helpful and I'm going to drill some smaller pilot holes with a three millimeter drill and then I'm going I think I'm going to go with five the screws are probably around three millimeters so we're going to have plenty of room to adjust all right so these have some rounded edges that are slightly more rounded than the other side and those match up with the rounded edges on these that's the inside so the top side of the lid and yeah you should be able to place these ah beautiful foreign this looks half decent as you can see it doesn't look half bad with these replacements and they are sturdy in there so there's enough uh Force spread over the plastic so these won't break off anytime soon so now the obvious question is are these going to behave with the record player okay that works yeah I think I pretty much nailed it yeah these that's super straight actually nice except for the fact that the plastic is slightly warped but looking at this line here and also the lines on the sides this is very straight and now you can see the hinge mechanism the hinge mechanism actually allows me to prop this up like this so I'm going to tighten the screws in this position I guess foreign looks like something that was originally on here so uh can recommend these replacements wholeheartedly nice I'm probably going to leave the polishing job maybe for another video or maybe I'm going to do it off camera altogether but yeah this works beautifully now I think the last thing to do is to make some cables to connect this to something and replace the old system in there which is probably very much done with and as a replacement for the original Technics p24 system that's in here I have this nice sure m92e which is actually pretty sought after these days I think they are not produced anymore but this is a t4p p-mount system that I used to use on my pmount record player which was a similar model to this like a direct drive lower end techniques and this was really it served me well all those years I'm going to put that in there it's definitely a bit of a better system than the one that's originally mounted here and replacing one of these p-mount or t4p systems is literally just a matter of locking the arm in place removing this little set screw whoa which is a bit stuck uh we should be able this goes through we should be able to just pull this out carefully there we go and these have these plugs on the back and the same goes for this one which just should fit in here fine I hope there we go that's plugged in and we put the screw back in turning it slightly left until it clicks into the threads and then just screwing it back down and that's how you replace these systems I'm going to have to remove some of these plastic chips that are still everywhere but now we have the sure m92e on here and it should be all set up these p-mount systems are all correctly set up for having the correct weight and also the position of the stylus should be exactly right so you don't have to do any more setting up on these now the only thing left to do for this video at least I'm going to do some more polishing on the dust cover definitely and some more cleaning probably but we need to make some cables to hook this up to something and see if it actually produces sound output so for the audio cable I'm going with this uh does it say somewhere zomar cable Onyx it's a German brand that produces excellent cables and this is an instrument cable as well as a Hi-Fi cable no audio file bull involved in these I love these cables pretty easy to work with pretty easy to solder I got some high con connectors these are RCA connectors of super high quality not too expensive High con cm03 I got some red ones and some white ones obviously for the stereo pair I'm not going to go the full audio file route for this one this is going to be plenty good enough for the purpose I like to put a bit of electrical tape around the hot pin so the signal pin that's not Shield just to make sure that that is not shorting out against the ground so I made the audio cable let's check if it actually doesn't short out anywhere so you want to check between the center pin and the sleeve and we want to pull a check between Center pins and sleeve on both sides here just in case something went wrong so this should be an excellent audio cable now seems to have all the connections and no unnecessary connections and we also need a ground wire I'm just using this black wire here which is pretty thin wire but it's going to be sufficient I think roughly the same length as for the other cable and I'm going to put a 3.5 millimeter plug on one end like this and on the other end I'm going to crimp a spade connector or a fork connector so it can screw into the screw post on the amplifier and we don't have to be very careful to not short out because all the connections on this plug or both the connections on this this is a mono 3.5 millimeter funnel plug all the connections are going to go to the same ground anyway this is going to work fine let's do the other end is just going to be crimped possibly also soldered additionally because I don't think the wires thick enough what are you going to see I'm just going to add a bit of solar additionally because this is pretty marginal as I said I used a bit of flux to make it easier to solder on this rather large piece of metal yeah that's now properly connected this is our ground strap okay I have connected this up with my cables I just made to my beautiful Marans 20 to 52b which I did some restoration work on in a previous video and it actually works beautifully the stylus is a bit worn out so it's probably a good idea to replace that in the longer run but other than that this works beautifully now and the tone arm lift is a bit slow but that's better than actually too fast because yeah the needle drops at that speed and yeah it is fully working turntable again and it actually doesn't sound bad at all apart from the cover still being super scratched I have to polish that but I'm probably not going to make a separate video about that that's going to take some patience but other than that this is fully functional and it doesn't look half bad sounds good I call this a success yeah so that's it for today I hope you enjoyed this little Excursion into the world of record player Restorations I managed to make this one pretty much a very usable record player again and I'm pretty satisfied with the results as I said I'm going to do some polishing on the dust cover because that doesn't look very nice as you've seen other than that it's pretty much back to its original performance I hope you enjoyed this hope to see you again on this channel for some other Hi-Fi stuff or maybe the Retro computer stuff I usually do on here thank you so much for your support on patreon and on Kofi and on the YouTube channel memberships page and elsewhere I'm your beta thanks for watching see you next time bye

Channel: Jan Beta

Views: 9,515

Keywords: Jan Beta

Id: ndO-guZ3XYQ

Length: 58min 13sec (3493 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 17 2023