Tally Ho Capstan Project: Installing Ratchet Dogs on the Capstan Winch Drum

[Music] hello Keith Rucker here at vintagemachinery.org guys today back working on the talo cap standand project that we've been working on now for quite some time and uh we are actually getting into the short rows on getting this thing finished up I think I've still got quite a few things to do and today what I want to work on is really kind of get this caps and drum finished up and the last things that we need to do there are a a couple of holes here in the side of the skirt that goes around the bottom of this that uh have to do with some little dogs um these are this is a little lever dog this is actually going to catch in some little places on the base it acts as a ratchet so that when you're uh winching on this drum basically this is upside down so think of gravity as pulling up it's going to be pulling this thing in and there's some little dogs basically it'll come on across it'll drop over there and of course gravity pull it down and it will not allow it to spin backwards and you can spin this thing around um 180° depending on which direction you're going you just flip this little PW uh to direction that you want to and again it kind of makes a ratchet base so that it will not allow the uh it basically makes the drum only turn in One Direction or at least by the spacing of those teeth that it catches on so if you kind of slip or lose and it pulls back you pull that anchor up boom it's going to hit a stop and it's not going to drop all the way back down to the ground at least that's the hope so to get this back mounted in here this uh this has to have a little pin that's going to go into this hole that this thing can rotate on now we are kind of modifying the design of this a little bit just because of the changes we've made putting this gear inside of here um and um got a plan to do that there's also another little lever over here that we're going to be working on later and it basically is is a little stop to keep this thing from coming all the way down so there's a little PW that you can put in here and it will kind of put it in a position where there's the uh the ratchet cannot engage at all um and we're going to have to make that and put it in as well but we're going to start with this one here and what I need to do is make a couple of pins these things are going to rotate on and we're going to have to come here and actually drill and do some tapping and stuff to get these in place so I've got a design for that part right here I'm going to zoom you in here and show you this and we're going to go over to the lathe and actually make a couple of these pins and then we'll figure out what we need to do for the other pins as well all right we're over here at the lathe and uh we're ready to start working on these these need to stick out uh about three inches I need plenty of room to work with there and just so you kind of see what we're going to be making this is the little drawing that I drew for this it's going to be a shoulder bolt 3/4 that's the section that the little PW is going to rotate on this is the little section that 1116 that goes up into the casting and then that'll be threaded half inch 20 up in there and will just form a head on the end I got all my Dimensions that I need so uh let's see if we can knock this thing out all right we'll start by facing the end I'm going to zero out my digital readout in the x axis and I need go in 1725 make a mark right there that's where I'm going to be turning up to a shoulder and I need to turn that down to 3/4 of an inch we're starting out at about uh inch and a 16th if I remember right we'll just take uh 100,000 here and turn down to that that line all right take another 100 check that [Music] diameter we are at 875 right on the money and that's right where my digital readout out as well we're going to 750 so I'm going to take another [Music] 100 let's get another measurement we're at 774 I'm going to 750 so we got 24,000 to do in just going to dial it in right on the digital readout 75 go to my depth which was uh what was it 1 775 725 there we go I want it to be just a little bit UND sized so that it'll have a little bit of room to rotate on and that's going to work just fine Perfect all right so now I need to turn my 11/16 inch uh shoulder and [Music] and it needs to go in [Music] 825 right there 1116 says uh 6875 all right now I need to turn half inch diameter with a thread on the bottom that needs to come in a/2 inch right there turn up right to that shoulder at half in right there and turn it out okay just start that there we'll break some Corners here on the other ones and I think I'm just going to single point thread this 20 threads per inch and here we go double check that thread pitch 20 threads per inch all right let's uh let's do it put a little uh cutting oil on there feed in a little bit more I don't have a/ in nut to try this with but I do have a halfin 20 D so I'm just going to run it up on there I've got it pretty darn close to size because I'm just turning this by hand and that should clean those threads up right to the shoulder there and we should be right on size all right we're part this off and we'll form the head in a separate operation now we need to part this off again I'm just going to come in here and I'll use this rule to make the outside this edge of my cutter flush with the end and I'm zero that out on my digital readout and we'll dial into the total length of the bolt which is 2. one in so let me just dial that in on the digital readout right there with my parting tool just par this right [Music] off I'm just going to let that fall there I've changed my mind on how I'm going to do these it's much better I think instead of uh trying to round that head over I'm just going to leave it um kind of square like this but I do want to clean that outside diameter up I'm just going to barely clean it up here a little bit more quite clean it up and I'm just going to use the uh angle back angle there to just relieve that edge there a little bit little switch [Music] Cutters champer this uh top Edge and I'm going to Champ for a little bit on the heavy side and that is done do the same thing to the other one and we'll have our uh shoulder bolts ready to go I'm over here now at the horizontal boring Mill and this is where we're going to be kind of continuing on this project so the next step is is I need to to actually Mount the stud in here that this dog is going to ride on so that's going to basically hang on that little piece and that's going to screw in to a hole we're going to drill and tap right here but I need to make sure everything stays in alignment and uh the nice thing about this machine is is I've got a spindle that's running perpendicular to the base or parallel to the base however you want us to call it I can drill in at a 90° angle to whatever I've got over here so we've got the cap stand basically clamped down to the table again there's a rod that goes down through a teut in here and I'm just clamping it straight down and I did take a little bit of time setting this up where basically I've got this thing running where the the center of this is running through this what will become at least running parallel to the center here and the way I did that is I I used uh this big Center finding Tool uh I basically put it on the back the cap stand got it lined up between the hole in the back and the hole in the front where it was right through the center of both of those I could actually see it was going over the center of the hole and uh I just took my spindle here on the boring Mill let me show you I ran it out as far as I could go and I was able to come in here and line this up so that it was parallel to it so I've got it set up it's not set up on the height it's not set up on the center yet but it is set up where the center line of this hole is running parallel to the spindle on the machine so we should be able to get in there and um drill this thing out and have a nice uh hole that's going straight to through the center of the part um now what I need to do is actually get my get it set up to drill and actually get the the spindle set up on the center of the hole which which is a whole another thing we got to do and that's what we're about to do right now so let me pull the spindle back in and I'm going to start by finding the center of this hole and to do that I'm using a transfer punch you guys have seen me use these before I've got a whole set of these basically in fractional increments that go from a I don't know small small ones probably 16th of an inch up to one in so this is the one that basically matches this hole right here and when I put that in there it's going to line itself up on the outside here and You' got a center punch in the center that will punch a center a punch a a center punch Mark right in the center of that existing hole so these are really handy for doing you know layout where you got to line something up you can use these to drop through a hole in one part into the other and when you punch them and drill them your holes line up works really good so I'm let me think I'm going go around the back side here and we're just going to come in here get that lined up all right now I've got a center punch Mark right in the center of that hole that we need to line up on I ended up just putting a little pointer in here to kind of see where I'm going this is going to help me kind of get this lined up I'm going to pull that up a little bit so now now he just comes adjusting everything on here to get it where it needs to be so I need to lower the head down all right I got the head dropping down here I'm just using the power feed on it to make it go a little bit faster bit easier on the cranking anyway I had to find adjust it my hand that's close to where we want to be turn that off and just crank this out by hand I think we come out there feed that in a little bit more pretty darn close right there all right that's pointer now is just right in the center I've got got my height and my table my X and Y I guess you would call it on this machine or maybe Z I'm not sure what access you'd consider that anyway we've got it lined up right where I want to drill that hole so uh next I think it's actually to drill it so we've got a 2964 C drill bit in there which is the size we need for/ in 20 threads to tap and I think we are ready to drill this I will note that I have put on here a little Mark with a sharpie pin about right there I can see it tells me how deep I need to go I don't want to go all the way through this machine's kind of noisy but uh we're going to go ahead and let her drill that out just do this by hand I got a tap follower here I'm going to put in to help me kind of guide that tap in and this is a half inch 20 tap which is the size we need for this me all right so this tap follower if you haven't seen one before it's a little spring Point spring loaded point that goes in the center of that tap and it just keeps everything aligned so now when I run this in there it just makes sure that that tap is going to run nice and straight right down that hole that we've uh got drilled once it kind of gets started we're good we're going to go in until we kind of get to the bottom of the [Music] hole all right feels like the bottom I'm going to back this out now we were using a taper tap starter tap so this end is kind of tapered to kind of get pointed started in there to finish that hole out to um get threads down to clear through the bottom I've got what's called a bottoming tap this one here basically doesn't have really hardly any taper on there at all so you have to run the taper tap first then you run this one in and it will get those threads cleaned up all the way down to the bottom of the hole so it's going to start by just going down that same tapped hole that we have already put in there and like I said when it gets down there to the where that taper at it will cut those last few little threads and it's cutting right there and that feels like the bottom so we'll come back out all right I think we got our hole drilled and tapped we'll get that cleaned out and see we can put the uh put the little shoulder bolt in there to hold that dog into place so I'm just going to use some Loctite 290 thread Locker here to make sure that this bolt doesn't go anywhere so we'll just uh put a little bit on that those three Reds all right take our dog here which will go in like this and we'll screw all this together and I'm just going to use a pair of pliers to kind of grip a hold of that and help screw it in I like it now of course gravity is holding this up normally this is upside down so gravity would be dropping it down and basically it will flip over one side or the other to work with that ratcheting mechanism there you go you can see both of these pieces now uh that's the first one we did and of course the second one here on the other side ready to go all right there's a hole for the other pin that we got to do and like I said we got to make those and I get the pins made to go in there and we'll get those drilled out over here on the boring Mill as well so right here you can see where the little bronze lever is that that is used to dis engage this again remember all this is upside down so normally gravity is pulling it this way and there's a dog plate that that's going to engage in but when you don't when you want to disable it what we had here was in this pin hole was a little bronze Leever this is what's left of it there's two of them one on each side I've got both of them however both of these the ends were broken off and what would happen is is when you flip this over to that stop right there it would come down and the dog would hit that and it would prevent it from going down where it could engage in the dog plate so again these need to be yeah probably a half inch longer than what they are to kind of support that dog plate up and uh you could just flip this around the other direction when you wanted it to engage and uh that would allow that to go down and engage the dog plate so and then two there was a couple of pins uh that were in here that these rotated on we're going to have to remake the pins uh the original pins were made out of steel we're going to make these out of bronze and uh we're going to make these right here out of bronze now I'm sure that these little levers were originally cast however my game plan is is I've just got some bronze material here we're just going to make them out of that and my game plan is is that we'll just come in here and basically lay that on there trace it out I'll go cut it out on the band saw probably just do a little grinding and whatever to make it fit um this is a little bit thicker than what we need and then that lever arm is bent we can easily bend that once we get it in place so anyway I'm going to massage a couple of these out of a piece of brass or bronze rather and uh go from there I'm going to go ahead now and just kind of cender that over it and I'm just going to use a Sharpie pin and just kind of trace the outline of the original and I want these to be about a half inch longer than so we'll just kind of [Music] I'm over here at the Vertical Mill now and I need to thin this material up a little bit you can see how thick the original piece is I need to take about 150,000 the total thickness and then some more off of this area down here where the Blade's going to be so probably should have done this before I get everything out but we are where we are so I'm just going to go ahead and hopefully this will hold just fine over here in the mill and we can uh Mill that down we started out with a blank that looks about like this and U this is kind of what I finished up with that's with some grinding some filing some sanding Etc just kind of shaping that around and I think that's going to work I need to do the same thing to this other piece over here and we can look at getting these things mounted all right I got my mounting studs done here so this will fit up over the head there and let that rotate we got a shoulder there for it to go on and then this is going to be drilled and tapped 176 or 7/16 in 20 threads per inch so let's get up up to the caps and drum get those holes drilled and tapped and we can get these installed and I think we'll have the drum pretty much finished up this is a regular taper tap here we'll go to the bottom of the hole back out and then we'll go back in with a bottoming tap to get us uh where we have threads clear down to the bottom of the hole locktite on here thread locker and that will keep our dog from coming in it's in that position and we can flip it out of the way over here to the other way we'll let that uh set up that should do it I'm going to do the same thing on the other side and with that guys I think that our caps drum here is finished we've got the new Gypsy ring in we've got the new gear ring in we got our dogs all attached this is all ready to go back over there the only thing that's really left to be done to it is painting and we're probably going to be sending this out to get it professionally paint painted so uh that'll be coming up later on as well so and actually um I think all that's really left for us to finish up on this cap standand is the new casting top that we had cast uh we're going to have to get that machined and ready to go on here but I think that's the last piece that we need to have this puzzle put together still got a lot of work to do but uh we're getting really really closer to the Finish Line than we have been at any point so far and hopefully not much more into this so guys with that that's going to be a wrap as always thanks for watching please do subscribe to the channel if you haven't already those thumbs up and comments are always greatly appreciated hit that Bell icon up there to get notifications when new videos are posted and as always a big huge thank you to the supporters of the site who support via patreon and PayPal there's links for that down in the description below if that's something you can help out with because it really does enable me to take the time to shoot the videos to bring the content to you guys uh which does require a lot of extra time and effort and with that guys we're going to sign off we will catch you on the next video again thanks for watching [Music]

Channel: Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org

Views: 127,600

Keywords: boring, boring head, capstan, capstan restoration, hole boring, keith rucker, machine shop, machinist, milling machine, restoration, sampson boat co, sampson boat company, sampson boat company tally ho, tally ho, vintage machinery, vintagemachinery.org

Id: LUt5ux3QATI

Length: 29min 39sec (1779 seconds)

Published: Mon May 13 2024