Super Challenging Mods for the Playstation 2 Slim

I'm tired I'm exhausted I work 13 hour days but I promised my friend bill that I would Maude up a PlayStation 2 for him last year now I know that I said in the last ps2 video that I was washing my hands of the system forever but I think there are a few things that are left to be said for the slim model now what you're seeing before you is actually the SC pH 70,000 X X series now in my opinion this is the only slimline ps2 model worth owning why is that well in subsequent slimline ps2 models the ps1 CPU which is a mips r3000 was dropped from the production line now this not only has a negative impact on ps1 titles but ps2 titles as well the r3000 was replaced by an 8 IBM ASIC codename deckard which I believe is just a fun sort of play of words to suggest replicant meaning that the IBM ASIC is replicating the functions of the ps1 SR 3000 now I'm going to go over some new techniques that we haven't investigated together and we're going to do some pre-emptive maintenance specifically for this model and the laser assembly so sit back strap on and let's go back and finish this once and for all so just like always we'll begin by breaking the unit down [Music] okay so we've got the top totally off here and with the 700,000 double X series there's only one screw that we have to remove in order to take the mainboard out of this thing but before we do that let's go ahead and let's this engage this ribbon cable here which holds the power and reset sort of daughter PCB in place so we'll just carefully remove that and we'll come over here to the controller port and we'll just remove that Phillips screw and by this point also take out this little tamper proof tab this is to lock this thing down no one ever uses that but we'll remove that too and just what I like to do is pick it up and hold the system about a 45 degree angle from the familiar the surface you're working with grab the AV port and just sort of rock it like that sometimes these things get a little jammed in there but you want to rock it and bring this forward bring it forward and then to clear the USB ports in the controller ports as you bring it forward just simply pull back if you do it that way you'll run a very low risk of damaging anything and believe me I've seen people damage these main boards upon removal but now we have several screws here we need to remove on the black on the backplane so might get a little reflective here and shiny in the video I apologize for that so let's remove these but before we remove those I goofed up and I forgot we do need to remove the four post screws that hold the laser sled and assembly in place so that's really simple we'll just come in here get in with the Philips and we'll just back these out don't have to remove them totally but the screw these screws do anchor to the the bottom plate that we just looked at so let's just real quick like come in here and take these out be sure not to disturb or lose the bushings here those are very important to have and underneath we do have a screw here and other Phillips this this one is just as important as the other so we'll just come in here and we'll remove that too okay now this should just simply be a matter of grabbing this bottom guard plate and just coming in here and sort of lifting it up like so and it looks like I forgot a screw up here there we are and we'll just very carefully lift this up and now we have complete explosion explosion pleat exposure up the bottom main board and this is primarily where we'll be working with and this is a this is a GH o 35 revision the best slim ps2 main board assembly in my opinion so having said that I think it's time we we get into business here so let's do it now we're kind of zoomed out just a bit here of the general area that will be working in which is primarily from the sort of this area down into this section here and you know when you're doing something that requires a lot of a wire routing it's really important to think about that why her routing and where exactly everything is going to live before you even start because you may get in the middle of something and realize oh [ __ ] I don't have enough room or oh I didn't take this thing into account of long doing this so what I like to do with this particular model is and forgive me this has been a couple of years at least since I've done one of these I think but I like to let the that little jewel live and about this area here now this gives me a plenty of room for my BIOS hookups here where the where we hook into the to the BIOS and the drive controller and the oscillating and the also the V clock for this to run and everything has plenty of room on this side but more importantly we're installing an additional fix that will keep the laser from imploding on itself if you're using bad or dirty media or burnable media that's of low quality and and that needs to have room to live in here to about in this area where I'm pointing to so in my opinion the best place to situate this is in this general vicinity right here it affords you plenty of room here then affords you plenty of room here on the backside all while giving plenty of room for your pick fix microcontroller - to live in the area that it needs to live in so having said that I don't think I'm going to be giving too much commentary unless something comes up probably more so when I'm doing the pig fix but from now on things are going to be pretty quiet and you're just want to see some technique here so sit back and enjoy yourselves now I will give a little commentary about some quick board prep here some of these ps2 main board revisions you'll find that there is a thin layer or barrier of varnish or lacquer over all of these exposed surface mount pads and through-hole traces now what I like to do is simply use a fiberglass pen with a little mechanical abrasive force to remove that varnish so that you can actually get into contact with the surface area of the copper here and you can actually 10-and and wet these areas because while these fine traces and all these fine B's that you see here most of the drive control or pin out that we have to solder to lives in here so we need to come in here and we need to make sure that we're making good contact so to do that again we'll just take this fiberglass pin here and we'll come in here like so and we'll just very lightly run it over these traces here I'm sorry over these vias and we're just going to make contact with just about everything and you can see that's you you can see that the the the middle appears to become lighter in these vias well that's just simply because we are removing that layer and that lacquer good and you can see a difference clearly you can see a very big difference we can now access these whereas if we try to solder to these we wouldn't get any wetting action because the solder is not able to make contact because there's that barrier of lacquer so fundable tip you may run into this on the same main blow of board revisions did you know you may not see this at all very strange how they did that but nonetheless it's just all the coding process let's proceed [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] and we took our isopropyl alcohol and our Russian we just simply clean this area of the flux that was left over from working these conductors in but now we need to do something that's pretty important because we really only get one chance and that is chip placement now all the signals that you see here that we've already laid out those are the drive controller signals and those correspond to the pins here on the left side or excuse me the pads on the left side a all the way up to why that's what these conductors correspond with so you know what I like to do is I like to just sort of position chip loosely where it's going to live maybe close to an area like this and what I'll do is I'll just take the conductors and I know I know the pin out of these so I don't have to worry about that because notice that there is no overlapping and all of these are in fairly seamless order so I'm just gonna sort of put this chip here like so and that's pretty good and what I'm going to do is I'm going to let this chip off I want to take a tool like this flat headed screwdriver this micro precision screwdriver what I'm going to do is well me you know what I might not even need to use it I might be able to use my index finger of my right hand because this is such a small wire grouping while holding all these wires together we'll give it a try we're going to shift them and rotate 90 degrees if we can like so and hey that's working out quite nicely so we'll have that in place here and now I'm gonna grab that chip again I want to place this over and yep that's going to work nicely so what I'm going to do is all of the wiring that you see is actually going to live underneath this chip its matter of fact you're not going to see any of this not the way that I do it so I'm just sort of prepping and getting these wires in position now that they're in position I can kind of lock them into place the way that I like to do that is I'll take a little glue and something to really keep in mind I am NOT gluing to the main board I'm just grouping these wires together and I'm going to apply a little glue to the surface to the surface of these a very small amount so that these wires will stay together and they're grouping again I'm not gluing to the main board I'm just gluing to the wires themselves so now these wires will stay in position and that they'll stay in this nice tight grouping I'm just going to hold this here for a few seconds and let this dry up a little bit once the glue cures I can let go of this and these wires will stay exactly where they are and I can move forward with putting this chip into place and whoops that's the wrong way we're going to actually like this way like so and get this chip into place here and we can get started on one section so let's do it [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] now we're going to begin stripping the insulation from these wires and it would be solder into our pin outs here and there's a couple of different things that I want to talk about and the last ps2 video that I did you saw that I simply brought the conductor up like so in this case this is going to be conducted B I got into position here I would just bend this over now it would take I would take my cutters and I would cut this I can find my cutters like here they are I would cut this you know to form that like that that out of there and then I would just take my iron and we put a little bit of a little bit of solder on there to kind of create more of a heat mass and I would just rotate this around the conductor until we we cleared that insulation like so just like that and then I would take something like like I said you take my finger I will just clear that off like that that's relatively clean but it isn't the cleanest way of doing it and it really depends on the type of wire if you're using a high melting tip in our this this insulation won't melt so much it'll just retract when you heat it up but of course you know I would finish that off by after prepping the wire I would just add a little flux on there and we would come right in here with the with the wire in approximate position we would just put that in a place like like so not the cleanest thing in the world functional but not the cleanest thing in the world let me show you another way of doing this let's get a wire preps and sort of in position here so we're going to do conductor H I'm just going to pull this up like so get into position it's gonna live right here let's bend it over so we make sure we have enough slack and we cut this thing I'm just gonna be right there perfect now we're just gonna bring my cutters in here I want to cut this off like so right now you don't have to use those big expensive cutters if you don't have them go buy some cheap bass fingernail clippers and these will allow you to get in very close because we have to get in really close right here and strip that insulation all for a buck forty at your local you know pharmacy so we're going to try that we're going to come right in here I want to see if I can get this in the shot which I think I can do a pretty good job of that yep that looks pretty good let's pick it up a little bit so I'm gonna come right in here and I can see I need to take off about I guess a millimeter of material so I'm gonna come right in there and grab about a millimeter of material I'm not gonna not gonna clip and press all the way I'm just gonna get a hold of this and put a little pressure and a little tension on there and I'm just gonna lift up just like that and I don't know if you saw that but we stripped that conductor and do it again because we got to get a little more material off than that so I want to come in here we're gonna come just like that we're gonna pull just like that as you can see we've got about a millimeter and a half of material expose and this is ready I mean that's that's all the that's that's all there is to that super easy we've been doing this using this technique for years I still use it from time to time you know for the past decade or so of doing this you know this is just one of those sort of methods when you're doing wire wrapping not just for things like this but any sort of wire wrapping and you you need to get in tight and close well you can use just that and you know as far as sole during this in we can either choose to flux it or not flex it doesn't really matter at this point but it's in position where'd it come down with our iron and that's super clean now the flux on the the unspent flux on the board makes that look kind of nasty so if we come in here with a brush we kind of remove that by just coming in here super-clean [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] and with that final wire on our pic fix that pretty much concludes this video you know I love the 700,000 series ps2 celeb it's basically a fat ps2 that's just been down scaled and miniaturized with all the same chips and you know this matrix pick fix that we installed is for the most part exclusive to this to this model so you know we've got some footage here obviously this running booting ps1 games and ps2 games fantastically you know I'm kind of surprised that I had this much fun doing this you know going back and revisiting this old girl it's been a it's been a few years and it's just interesting when when you've not done something for so long yet when you go back it all comes back to you like muscle memory and just kind of remembering precisely you know how you routed all the stuff you know so many years ago but at any rate I hope you enjoyed this this was this was fairly you know well requested quite a bit so I hope that you guys take something from this and plenty of videos to come in the future finally I think I can actually say that I'm putting the ps2 at rest we're putting it to bed and we'll be doing a lot of other fun stuff times just been you know getting away from me lately but having said that I hope you enjoyed this if you haven't subscribed to my channel give it a consideration I've got a ton of cool stuff like this I'll be doing in the future and of course leave comments down below like all that good stuff but having said that guys we'll catch you later take care for now [Music]

Channel: Voultar

Views: 499,004

Rating: 4.75 out of 5

Keywords: modchip, modbo, soldering, PS2 Mods, Voultar, hardmod, ps2 modchip

Id: V8LJLOOrBGM

Length: 38min 6sec (2286 seconds)

Published: Sun May 27 2018