Steam Engine Repair - Scale Model Advance Rumley Belt Pulley Repair - Shrink Fit - Machine Shop

[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] hello welcome to topper machine i'm josh topper so many of you know my my love for steam traction engines the agricultural engines and you know i have a baker 2175 i'm kind of the holy grail of traction engines but this is a one-third scale uh this was built according to the owner and sometime in the 60s and it was these scale models were always kind of cobbled together of bits and pieces laying around the farm that these hobbyists would build these out of and this one is one that i think is really well done it looks very nice it's um the owner's very happy with it says it runs really well the problem is the crankshaft pulley the keyway is all messed up it's kind of a bad bad design that they did when they built this thing and so it's starting to walk off as you run it and he's scared it's going to come off while they're running it at a show or a parade and hit somebody or do some damage to the equipment or you know it could be bad all around so we're going to address that problem today and get this engine back to its owner and hopefully see it at a parade or a show this summer so here's the pulley and this is actually something off of uh something that's international harvester and what they did was they made this little sleeve that goes in there and i don't know if you can see it i'll move the camera in better but there's splines in here instead of taking the splines out and boring this and doing it all right they made this little adapter that drops in there but this thing wobbles which isn't good i mean that's very loose and the keyway itself is very wore out um here's the key and as you can see this thing slopped all over the place too so you got all kinds of issues going on here so the repair we're going to do we're going to throw that up in our four jaw chuck indicate it in and then bore out that center that hub where the splines are and we're going to board a little bit larger and then we'll make a new insert that'll go in there with a shrink fit we'll insert it in there and we'll cut a new keyway in it hopefully not all the way through our insert to keep it all the way around and eliminate any possibility for flex so we're going to go ahead and get our pulley up in here and what i'm actually going to do is i'm going to grip on the outer jaws on the inside diameter of the clutch running surface because that was machined so a lot of these jobs that the hardest part is figuring out where to grip stuff and if you're wondering what these grooves are for in the chuck face that's actually to help you set your four jaw where you need it these are all you can measure those and get them close and figure out where you need to be now i know i'm gonna be a ways out here but [Applause] so the first thing i'm going to do here i'm going to get my pulley up here and i brought my center in so that i can help push it up against the chuck jaws and that'll help me get it trued up make it a little easier to keep it up so all right so i know this is gonna the indicator is gonna be a little difficult to see and you're probably wondering this plate well that's just a whole little tension to hold it up against my jaws that that'll help me a lot when it comes to indicating this thing in and i'm off quite a ways all right there's just some minor tweaking and i'm already a lot closer now i know from experience i can keep trying to dial this in but i'll never get it perfect because it's a these pulleys are never really machine perfect but i'm within within a few thou right now and the other thing you don't want to torque on it too much because you do run the risk of cracking these pulleys there just cast iron [Applause] so now i'm going to move my indicator out and come inside the bore here because i'm guessing this is going to be pretty true and we'll get that bar indicated into true and then we can start machining so we're very close inside our bore we got a little little spot there a neck we won't worry about that but looks like we're really close so we'll get that dialed in the rest of the way and we'll get some machining [Applause] we got it indicated up the best we're going to get it um this cast iron that just it moves so much and you got to be so careful and then you got to be careful not to put too much force on it and crack it so we're going to be very careful about boring it we're going to take our time go nice and slow rpm and we'll bore it out get it opened up and then we'll move on to making the next piece well it actually looks like it's turning pretty true so we'll go ahead and we'll start boring [Applause] so in order to make this a little easier we're going to just start out with the drill and try to take some of them splines out um otherwise we're going to run into all kinds of issues with our with our boring bar [Music] [Applause] so looks like our height is a little bit high we're going to go ahead and drop it down a little bit now i made it all the way through my hub but this is the clearance i had to work with right here so i'm going to adjust my boring bar a little bit and we'll keep going because i don't like that that's a little close for comfort [Music] [Music] all right this time i'm going to take fifty thousandths and we're actually going to open this thing right up to inch and three quarter from ancient five a's just to give us a little more meat and actually we'll stop short of the inch and three quarter and then remit um the last 10 or 15 thousandths just to make sure that it's perfect for when we run our our hub in there now the reason we're going to bore this close and then finish it with a reamer is because quite honestly you got one shot at this i don't think we can replace this and we don't want to have to try to repair it so we'll just do the best we can as safe as we can and just try to get the job done without damaging anything [Music] all right i'm gonna take another ten thousandths and that'll get us within 15 of our seven and a half inches okay we'll go ahead and run our inch and three quarter shell reamer through and i'm just going to run this dry because it's cast iron [Applause] [Music] and according to my caliper it's a little oversized but that's fine i will take i'll get out the board gauge and actually measure it properly and see what it's at and then we'll make the sleeve a couple thou bigger and shrink it in [Applause] [Music] all right so i'm going to go ahead and switch from the four jaw over to the three jaw chuck and we'll get started on making the insert so okay so i took the more gauge and i measured the bar on there and were 1.752 so we're just over 750 inch and three quarter and we're starting out with a piece of two inch stock so we'll turn that down to 1.755 for our shrink fit so we'll shrink it a couple thou but before we do that we're gonna measure our our shaft on the engine and we're gonna bore this piece for the shaft 1.183 yup 1.183 so our shaft is a little undersized for mention three sixteenths so we'll have to compensate for that when we when we bore that [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] so [Applause] [Applause] so [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so i know you're probably all thinking well that's a reamer that's not going to cut the size you want well this is actually a 1.185 reamer so it's just a couple thou bigger than i want which is fine the loud slide on and when we do the shrink fit it might actually compress the bore just a little bit and fit tighter so [Music] [Applause] all right we got our bore cut now we'll come down and turn our od to 1.755 [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] you can see it got a little hot there we're gonna have to cool that down measure it and then keep taking passes but keep cooling it all right i slowed down my feed rate and i'm taking 50 thousandths 25 aside [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] i made a nice smooth surface let's see where we're at one point seven seven three yeah 1.773 there's a little warmth there so we'll start up the coolant and let it cool again for a minute and measure it one more time and then take our last pass one point seven seven two so it shrunk one thousandths just cooling that little bit with the coolant so we got uh we got about 16 17 out ago i said we had 17 ago i'm going to take 15 i'm just going to take a short pass and measure it and that's enough right there [Music] two thousand more to go so it looks like i can take my 17th house completely and should be okay [Applause] [Applause] all right we came out [Applause] one point seven five five and five tenths so just a little over which is fine a little tighter ain't gonna hurt nothing on this application now we'll go ahead and get our parting tool and part this off [Applause] okay so our piece needs to be 3.465 long so what we do is we come in touch off our parting blade zero our indicator our digital readout and then turn it over the disc the width of our cut off blade which is 160 on this zero it again and crank it down the distance we need which is three point four sixty-five so [Music] [Applause] well there it is let's go see how it fits on the shaft oh yeah about perfect way tighter than what was there before so now we'll go ahead and we'll get this set up and get our keyway cut and then we'll shrink it into our pulley so the next step in this job is to cut the internal keyway and we're going to do that in the slaughter i got it already set up um and i'll do another video in the future on setting these up um but i'll bring you in to show you what i did so we got our piece in the three-jaw chuck here i've got a parallel underneath just to hold it from sliding down because these just push and that's that's all they do now i don't have a cutter the right size this is only a quarter inch wide so we're going to take the center out and then we're going to move one side and then the other and take the center or widen it out to the 385 because the key and the shaft is a little oversized so we'll just make everything 385 and make one key so so so perfect well now i've got the problem of how am i going to get this in there um this morning my wife and i ran to superior to go to walmart and i was going to get some of that electronics duster stuff that some several people said you can use that to chill apart so i wanted to give it a try well guess what walmart didn't have any so we drove an hour for basically nothing one hour one way um the next nearest walmart's about 45 miles i guess we'll give that a try tomorrow but for right now i'm gonna just throw this in the freezer and hope for the best that's like so i got the pulley out here i've got it sitting on a block on the hub here so that when i drop the the insert in it don't go too far and i'm going to go ahead and warm this up a little bit with the torch and then i'll grab the piece out of the freezer okay so i got the thing out of the freezer and it shrunk a little bit but somebody had suggested these compressed air cans to chill it even further we're gonna give that a try and we got one shot at this so we got to be quick well that did not go nearly as well as i had hoped i did get it in there without without any damage or anything it went i had to rush and get it up on the hydraulic press so and push it in as fast as i could and that that worked out i didn't take much for pressure to get it in it just needed a little help so the compressed air can is a no-go for me moving forward um just not cold enough not enough i in fact i i'm thinking liquid propane would have been better um so with that i just made the call and ordered a co2 tank with a dip tube and i ordered the thing for making my own dry ice because i know dry ice works well i can get that but it's an hour away but that's more readily available to me than liquid nitrogen which would have worked even better but again i'm in a desolate area things are not available here so we have to be resourceful and find ways to make things work and so making my own dry ice is a very good option moving forward so now that that's done let's go make the key for this so i did a little quick measuring on the existing key and actually the existing key is the right width but i didn't cut my keyway as deep as the keyway was in the sprocket or in the pulley so i can actually shave this keyway key down a little bit and make it work so that's what we're going to do we're just going to take a trim a little bit off of it and use this key all right so i trimmed it down the key down a little bit let's see how it goes starts nice it's a tapered key so and she wants to stop and i'm thinking i gotta i'm gonna take it back out and just see what's going on here because it should go in better than this and i'm guessing i gotta look at that keyway on the shaft okay so just running my finger in here i can feel some bumps um some problems and when i pulled the key back out i saw some scratching going on so i know there's some issues so i'm just going to take a needle file down in the bottom and just touch that up a little bit they said when i said these things were pretty cobbled together when they were made i wasn't joking there's a lot of you can see i hit on the sides but not in the middle but i feel a divot there so i'll spend a little time here with the file and just get this cleaned up so i found a bunch of little issues let's give this a try again though a little bit of polishing a little bit of touch up and we'll see where we're at now that ought to go the rest of the way [Laughter] well that key went in nice and tight i had a slight taper on it so it should have done a nice taper lock and then once i put the set screw down into it it just kind of bites right in now like i said the problem he was having was there was all that movement there and it just kept wanting to wobble and walk out now let's grab on and see if it moves yeah she ain't going anywhere and the clutch engages nicely the engine moves a little disengages yeah he should be in good shape well i hope you enjoyed the repair of this third scale advance um this was obviously a major problem for him for quite some time and and looks like it's going to take care of the problems tightened it right up and it should give him many many more years of fun and happiness these steam engines they bring a lot of happiness and this this canned air this was a a big disaster and this is something i will never do again um it was worth a shot but it it almost it almost caused a big problem for me so like i said earlier i ordered up a co2 tank with a dip tube and the stuff for making my own dry ice and we'll just start making dry ice as i need it just because like i said this area is so hard to get supplies in it's very desolate and there's just not a lot of stuff available for us so you got to get resourceful and and do what you can to to make it through and survive so until next time get out in your shop and get it done right the first time [Music] you

Channel: Topper Machine LLC

Views: 29,749

Keywords: manual machinist, machine shop, topper machine, metal planer, metal shaper, sawmill, shop built sawmill, DIY, homemade, monarch lathe, Bridgeport milling machine, lathe work, boring mill, HBM, drill press, metal lathe, milling machine, welding, press brake, steam engine, repair, traction engine, dry ice, liquid nitrogen, shrink fit, emergency, awesome repair, machine shop mishap, machine shop fail, model steam engine

Id: rzawZ1c2yPk

Length: 37min 56sec (2276 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 10 2022