STANLEY PLANE TYPING

hi and welcome to the shop again today i'm going to talk about some new planes that i got and what i do first when i get something in um this part you could call typing and what it is is trying to figure out where in the sequence of events of stanley's manufacturing these planes lie dating them and finding out what modifications have been done to them over the years as they were developed and created by stanley who developed them what their history is and what the purpose is so we're going to go through some of these planes and i have some other ones laid out here for you we have a number nine and three quarter block plane with a squirrel tail we have a uh we have a bedrock number 603 a little smaller than the four with the flat sides we have a number 45 we have a number six and a number four the six and the four are both wartime uh planes and i know that because of the adjustment knob so i'm able to identify that approximate year fairly quickly but in all these others there are little variances in them that'll change what year they were manufactured and for that i use a a guide to the timeline found in this john walters book antique and collectible stanley tools guide to identity and value i bought this from john walters when he was selling these out of the trunk of his car i don't know how many years ago let's see 1996 was the second edition so um a while back these are harder and harder to find and they're very expensive he's supposed to come out with a new book soon and everybody's waiting and hopeful hopeful that it comes out at any rate we're going to come in for some close-ups and look at these planes but i wanted you to know some of the tools one of them is the guidebook another one is a good magnifying glass particularly if you're getting to on in years like myself and it's sometimes hard to see little logos and imperfections and other things like that two good screwdrivers a medium size and a larger one because you do not want to use a small screwdriver on a larger screw and mess up the slot so you want to use the proper size screwdriver for every screw that you loosen and i keep a little just a little stick pad basically and a pencil and i write down notes on each of the planes as i come to some something pertinent to it or some imperfection or something strange i'll write that down and then i'll put it next to each plane so that i don't have to keep going back to the book each time there are some things about these planes that need cleaning but i always try to type and age and get as much information about them before i clean them because if the plane is is a particularly important one like this what i believe is this nine and three-quarter type one stanley or uh bailey uh block plane i don't wanna mess it up by over cleaning it because that's what it'll do it'll lose its value and it'll also lose a lot of its beauty if i over clean it so we're going to cut away here and go to some close-ups of these planes and i'll describe some of the issues and and the points about them glad to have you so here is the number six that i've laid out and i've taken apart and the reason for that is before you can really identify the age of a lot of these you have to really examine all the different parts number one to see if they're all original parts or maybe some have been replaced or that there's little uh significant parts about the plane that differs from the the guides on on typing it but here is a uh number four um and i believe both of these are war time period but we'll go through that in a minute there are three more planes that we want to identify and we want to make sure correct this is a nine and three quarter stanley and judging from the look of it it appears to be a type one but we'll verify that in a moment and again i've taken it apart but not uh not done any cleaning on it yet here obviously due to the flat sides is a bedrock plane with a rosewood tote and a rosewood knob also have taken all this apart and we're going to look in the guidebook to see if it's actually correct some rust on those rods there that'll come off really easily with the wire brush we'll get into that in another video this video is basically about taking tools that you just get in and first taking them apart examining them and typing them so you know exactly what it is that you're working with so we're going to start with this stanley here which is a bailey's excelsior block plane nine and three quarters in the book uh it it mentions that uh this didn't come out until 1872 even though uh the cutter itself has a patent date of um of 1858 so it says here see if we can get this up here to where you can see it easily is ale l bailey's patent august 31 1858. but again it didn't show up in into a catalog for sale until 1872 july 1st 1872 the trademark on the blade is considered an a2 the first one was more straight across and different lettering and in that book it will give you all the different ones so uh that has to do with just this little trademark right here so you can see the blade is in very nice shape no major damage and these little slits here it says that they varied i believe from 10 to 10 to 13. we have 12 here and they will fit into this nice little piece here so let's put this down and let me pick up the plane and show you that this is a little concentric uh guide with a twist here and um sorry here's the concentric guide with a pin and that goes in those little grooves and when you turn it like that you can see that's going to advance the blade or withdraw the blade and it's interesting in the casting you see how large this is compared to this over here [Music] that's important in order to get this part more centralized between the two sides of the plane so that so that this point here is really working up and down and not pushing the blade side to side too much the other really nice part about it is this little filed twist and you can see these little marks here in it i'm not sure if those are stress marks there you go or if they're actually file to make it cleaner afterwards after the twist was put into it so in the book it describes these three lateral cross sections here and this center portion here that supports it everything about this one matches what's in the guidebook is the type one including this little screw here which i found interesting because they offered two options later and one was a brass knob but not on the first one the sides are interesting because they see if i can get some light on it from down here they're thicker and they taper up so you can actually feel it getting thinner this sort of fat fat and then thin and taper which gives you a nice fine line along this edge here um and it's these little things that you want to pay attention to um and you can see that the squirrel tail is attached here with a screw in the back and so this whole assemblage would come off and it has a nice little barrel uh nut here that holds it on this is rosewood and then you go to the bottom let's take a look at the bottom here's your toe piece that's adjustable to tighten up your throat there is a little bit of damage there but for 1872 to 1920 that's very little damage so i'm not going to worry about that and i won't correct it on some i have filed these to try to correct it but i won't i won't do that on this plane just because it's too important historically not that this is the only one available you can probably find more but it doesn't mean that each example of it isn't equally important this will just get a minor cleaning and um it will not get refurbished to new now here is the here is the lever cap and the lever cap is beautiful there's no chips along this edge here good to see and here this you see is a a method of tightening that when it's when it's thick here it's tight because it's pushed down and then you come along here and you see you build up to that tighter portion and this relief here lessens as you go and so that's the tightening mechanism to hold this against the blade again very nice shape a nice patina i'll do a little cleaning and that's it ah look what we find here an m so or it's two lines and a v in between but this is most likely an owner's mark it's not terrible and i won't take it out because it's part of the history of the plane he didn't do anything to this side so that's what i mean by really looking at this stuff in detail so that you can catch any kind of imperfections on these so here's my little notepad and i wrote down l bailey's patent august 31st 1858 and that's what's on the blade nine and three quarter it's a type one it's the first type the trademark is an a2 on the blade now the a2 just refers to what john walters called is his study number but um this has no value as far as stanley or bailey's numbering system and it was first offered july 1st 1872 so let's go on to another plane this one's a real beauty um very little damage that's how this um lever works you see how it moves the blade and and then the lever cap here loose and then tight well i haven't tightened this down yet so i have to give it a cleaning and we'll get back to that we'll set it aside let's talk about this stanley number 603 it's a flat side and you can see that because the sides are flat the earlier ones had a round just like the normal bailey ones the other thing that's different is the frog seating the way this frog seats you see it's all milled very flat here which makes it easy easier to mill than some of the other ones with castings that have raised ribs and things the bedrocks were known for that and this is now used on the lee nielsen's uh method for uh their frog seatments um but let's be specific to this one and take a look at some of the features that we have here um the lever cap has stanley in a notched logo that's referring to this rectangle that has these these little notches in the corners it's a rosewood front knob very dark very nice the color is really beautiful i put a little coating of wax on it and that's why it's kind of dull just to clean it up here you can see the tote also has some beautiful color and when we buff out that wax that's really going to come through and be very nice the brass adjustment knob here are all little tidbits for adjusting the frog these two pieces seat themselves in here going down and and they have a little hole right here which takes these points here and that's part of the adjustment forward and back on this and then this little piece seats itself down around this like that and um and that's how you control how far forward your frog is or back by bringing this in and out this piece remains steady and uh and this will move it okay so we have the rear tote bolt is pretty rusty i think you can see a little wire brushing and that'll go away and that'll be fine need to loosen this up this is still tight which is uh which is not terrible but we don't want it to remain attached to this we want to be able to get that free and clean up this surface on here the frog looks fine on the frog a thing to notice is that there is no patent marks here that's been gone and it just says stanley here sometimes the stanley is the with the letters turned so it's s-t-a-n-l-e-y and here they used to have two patent dates um but that's not [Music] for this plane now here's something interesting is that this pin is loose you see here and so we want to be a little cautious with that we want to put it back in properly and then we want to peen this other end so it can't slip out and cause any issues so we want to be aware of that little issue there's some grunge all along here but i think that'll clean up with a little bit of a brushing or just even wiping with a rag so nothing terrible there on the sole itself as i said before it has number 603 bedrock and over here it has u.s patent april 19 10. so this gives us good hints the japaning is very nice and i've sprayed that with a little bit of aerocroil just to soften it up and to get this sort of stuff loose so i can go ahead and clean it sides look nice a little staining no big issue um this is probably in the original casting that's not a damage point and then and then here there is a large coating here but it's mostly surface and that'll come right off with a little bit of super fine sandpaper and flattening anyway so i'm not too worried about that the um the logo on the blade is sweetheart logo stanley sweetheart and what's important in this is to note that that heart from the sweetheart goes up let me see if i can get this to where you can see it it goes up into the notched logo you see the notch logo goes down into the heart and they change that at different points so we pay special attention to that in the guidebook to make sure that we're dating it properly according to that everything else looks nice and fine it does need re-sharpening um it doesn't look terrible but um i think it could use some pointing up cleaning of this the chip breaker looks nice seats well on the front so that's all good so we've done a nice examination of this now we have to figure out the dating so in the book this is a funny one it's a stanley bedrock number 603 obviously u.s patent date 19 um 1910 but april 19 1910 it's the flat side it's got rosewood uh pieces here and um that says type seven but the thing that's odd is this adjustment wheel you see the size of this adjustment wheel is small and this went away when they went to type seven type six had the small one um so we have to look at this in the period that they were being produced as an early one because they used up old stock so this is most likely circa 1923 which was the earliest of the this type if this was a large one then it might be 1924 1925 but that tells us because that's on the plane um and there should be no reason for anyone to have ever uh replaced this so let's go on to another plane so here is a bailey number four says made in usa back here and when you look in the guidebook it specifies certain things of this period i'm saying this is a type 17 but prior to 17 at a different type change you see there's a little raised area here um behind the numbers this front toe has been thickened up and raised so here is a bailey number four it says made in usa back here and when you look in the guidebook it specifies certain things of this period i'm saying this is a type 17 but prior to 17 at a different type change you see there's a little raised area here behind the numbers this front toe has been thickened up and raised you can sort of see that circular part and right there and then this is raised around where the knob will the fit in you see so these are all correct for that period and it specifies made in usa is added back here in the larger number six there are some variances and um as i was explained by a real expert on it that um that there was the type studies were done on the number four so that sort of explains where some things vary um the one thing that doesn't quite match is that this is a rosewood knob and a rosewood tote and you can see the beautiful grain in that rose wood so there's no doubt that this is is a delbergia rosewood um so and you can also tell on the bottom where where there's no finish so the raw wood so this is rosewood and they're saying that during the wartime production that they switched to some sort of a fruit wood knob and tote and so in in this case again and the expert explained to me is that they um they sometimes used earlier parts rather than adding to them this is correct for the period it's already got the kidney shape here rather than the keyhole slot and this is accurate for the uh for the stanley number four from this period everything is actually fine for that type study it's interesting that um this portion here you see is japan and oftentimes that was taken off the japaning there so it's kind of interesting that it's there but it is correct and it is flat and this is a major change here where they went to the single rib going up the center the japaning on it is very nice and thick all the way around it's going to clean up very nicely it's a smooth bottom here's the sides doesn't look like anything has actually ever been done to it it looks like it's in really nice shape and the war planes the real key to them is this is much thicker than on the earlier ones and the ones that followed so all of these are good keys to keep an eye out for so everything here is accurate for the plane look at the japaning here is also very nice looks like somebody must have buffed it out because i'm i'm detecting even the japaning on this is very good but it it looks like somebody must have buffed this out because i'm detecting a little bit of red rouge jeweler's rouge in in in here and in here so i think this had been cleaned before um see right along in there i'll clean that off with a little wd-40 um no no patent marks here none here and stanley written here all accurate so there's a couple of things that still confuse me on this also i see some red uh hints of red here and here and it looks to me like this one here had been dipped in vinegar or some sort of a process to remove rust and you can see the damage that that has done particularly to this portion here you can see how dull and gray the metal is i never do that with a plane and then it looks like somebody tried to buff it out and salvage it but you can see that it's eaten into that metal so it's it's it's not terribly important luckily they did not dip the blade but the chip breaker either as a replacement or somebody dipped it it's too bad but it's in this is all in very nice shape the logo you see is stanley with the notched squares and then just made in usa and in the book it tells you which logos are for which period this is all proper so the only other thing i want to talk about on this plane is that it talks about the adjustment knobs for the for the blade are supposed to either be made of steel or rubber hard rubber now this has this hard rubber outside this is not steel i don't know if you can see the yellow there but this is absolutely brass and this is a question i have because if they were trying to save all the brass for bullets for world war ii then they didn't save a lot only the part that's covered by this hard rubber so this is an anomaly that i'm still looking for an explanation from and put in some feelers out to different people this is just a little bit of dirt that'll come off but so there's an interesting point other than that it's an accurate wartime production bailey stanley number four now there there's some cleaning issues here you see how rusty this is but all of this will come off very easily and we'll get to that later so let's look at this number six you can see how thick this is here i'll bring it up and show you this is a number six um bailey made in usa smooth bottom sides look good sides look good looks like there might have been a little bit of rust right here years ago maybe this has been cleaned up sides are nice and thick definitely wartime um there looks like there's a c little casting mark in there and uh the japan is nice here a little worn back here up you see i'm not going to worry about that i'm just going to clean that up i'm not going to try to rejapan it it's got the crate correct frog seatment here seat there so let's put that down here's the frog japaning looks good in here no patent date here just stanley as it should be proper to the study it's always nice when you find the parts that are proper to the study and uh this did not come out it's tight and i'm not going to worry about it it won't hurt anything for it to stay there just be i'll have to be a little more careful about brushing behind there japaning in here looks nice nice and clean the two barrels are nice and clean these are the hollow types um they used to be just solid down and to save brass is a little more work but um they hollowed these out at some point and it's in the book on when those things changed i went ahead and i polished these a little bit and i got the rust off of here so you could see what it looks like from the other ones that were really really rusted up like this and uh you see quickly it comes up very clean now the um those pieces go back it's got a tall rosewood again knob and you can see that grain in there absolutely rosewood and you can see in here the unfinished part absolutely rosewood which does not fit that time period so it may be that these were it was an earlier part in the war production and they used the old ones before going to the newer so this is definitely rosewood in here as well beautiful shape no damage to it and then the lever cap again um kidney shape proper the uh notched logo as they call it and on the back here you see there's patent number and there's a u and it may be that that's what i'm seeing as a c in the casting mark in the base could be you as well something to look into and a patent number and i brought back the number four patent number the wartime and you see it doesn't have the u there to match but the numbers on the patent numbers do match from the number four to the number six it's always good to have different uh ones that you can actually compare the two to each other this all functions very nicely so that'll clean up well now on this piece here remember i said that up here it says um bailey and then behind the front uh knob it says made in the usa in the guidebook it says that uh type 16 they changed to putting the made in the usa here and and here you can see it is behind it is a in behind the frog and in front of the rear tote made in usa now the explanation why they're different and you see that this has the number here and the number six back there instead of here is that the study was done based on the number four and not the number six otherwise that probably would have been noted so it's not incorrect it's just that um this was really not used in the studies for the as as far as it being the number six so the blades correct with the proper notching this one has not been dipped and you can see some minor discoloration this will go away and it's a little bit of a patina that you really don't want to get rid of totally but you you want to clean it up a little bit or i do and then here on the blade is the number 438 stamped into the blade this could mean several things it could mean that this was used in a factory in a warehouse in a school or any place that kept track of their blades and so this might not necessarily have been the blade that came with this plane even though it's proper for it but it's or it may have been but it's numbered to uh to maintain the number of blades that they had in that factory warehouse or school so um here are all the little parts that need to be cleaned up and the only other anomaly about this one again is the rubber knob because it's not on steel it is on brass so um again i don't know why that's brass rather than steel or that it's not completely steel but i don't see any reason them for them to take the old brass knobs and then coat them in steel and it's different because this is not sunken in so this is a modified design um so who knows maybe early no idea so that's the number six that's the four plane heavy casting type 17 1942-1945 because of some of the rosewood totes and things i would suggest that it's probably closer to 1942. talk about this 45 here this is a major change on this on this type and there's a lot of differences that vary from the types before it i'm considering this a type 7b and it seems to fit all of the qualifications so number one the rosewood ball that's on the fence now you see there's no bolt up here anymore and and it now screws onto this uh metal post that's cast in the uh with the main casting here um and it's interesting because this is not threaded afterwards it's actually in the casting and you can see that how it's flat on this side and this side so that's a major change that they uh that they went to that and then in later models [Applause] they went back to the threaded piece that goes through the bolt so that's a a a big key as to it being 7b 7b is from 1896 to 1906 and and there's early ones and later ones and the funny thing about this one here is that on the center skate here there's a b casting and the b casting refers to the earlier version of this but on the uh fence here there is an s here so this refers to a little later so it might be a mixture of two pieces one from the earlier earlier 7b to the later 7b another interesting thing that i find on this that is similar to some of the stanley block planes is this piece here this adjustment screw [Music] for adjusting the blade in and out has actually has holes here which is typical for the piece that tightens the cap iron on some of the block planes but um on the ones before this and after this i don't i don't see this wheel as as this one is in here tight i don't know if you can see it but there's a little b casting on that as well so that's interesting the number 45 here on the main body cast is a sign of the 7b so there's all these little things that were different before and have changed the other thing is the handle on the seven b's are now held on by two rivets this one here and this lower rivet here so this is all of the signs on the main body that point out that this is a 7b the on the fence that also is different first of all the distance from here to here has gotten shorter on this and the design here has changed now it's just the 45 in an oval here and this flat surface here acts as an alternative fence to using this side of the rosewood now on this plane uh one of the things that i did notice is you see how worn the rosewood is here well that's because the owner of it reversed it in order to achieve a new flat surface and here are the original holes how it was mounted on the plane originally but somebody has reversed it around i'm going to take it off and clean this off it'll be a little thinner but it won't have this scarring anymore so i'm going to correct that little issue with it the other change in the 7b is you notice the rods here that go through are straight simple rods and so what they did was it used to be that these would screw into the main body of the plane on this side and now they've switched it to a a design where the rod goes all the way through so that's a major change in the 45s of that year all of these little things tell you different things about it the 45 cast on the main frame was new the two rivets in the handles is new the rods uh no longer screw into the main frame on the on the handle or the tote um this has been a limited eliminated this used to come out like this in a little bit of a horn and um similar to this and that's been eliminated and now this just carries on straight down so another good sign that it's a 7b the uh s cast and the v casting makes sense and and the trademark um on the rear end here of the of the main body is uh stanley i don't know if i can get you to be able to see it in the video but um it says then that changed earlier and forward from this time period all good signs now there was some strange things number one is this was included and being used as one of the screws which it is not i'll have to figure out what this goes to i won't throw it away but it's uh i don't believe to this 45. um so it's missing a few little pieces that i'm going to have to deal with and but for now i'm going to clean it up and set it up on the shelf trying to see if there's anything else that i missed yeah this little bead here on the bottom of the knob has returned for this this time period and that's about it the uh the funny thing is that this cam which is uh designed to rotate down when you want to if you're say doing a crown molding or something and you've taken away some wood and you can no longer support it this uh will go on the rod and um and you can just pivot it down to ride on whatever work surface you want but the earliest one this is the year that they introduced this but the one in the drawing of the book has a thumb screw up here going down this way in order to attach it and this does not this has a rod which you can see here and and it just of course will will go back and clear and then when you tighten this down that rod will come out and tighten to one of your cross rods um all good stuff um but distinctive to the 7b which again is 1896 to 1906 and the uh b castings or 1897 to 1900 and the s castings are uh 1901 to 1906. so i'm going to pretty much figure that this has to be a 1901 uh variable 1902 [Music] where they're using an older part with the newer part so great um it it has a little bit of minor rust but nothing terrible a little wire brushing will take this off this is nice and clean i'll just uh uh just to hand rub a little bit there and clean it up and i think it it's going to serve me well over here is the depth stop it's missing the slitter that would have gone there that's not an issue and i think it's the first year these were introduced the depth stop on the inside you

Channel: Chester Spier

Views: 936

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: Stanley, plane, planer, handplane, Chester, chester spier, Spier, wood, woodwork, woodworker, MWTCA, tool, tools, tool collecting, collecting, collector, tool collector, Stanley tools, stanley rule and level, stanley 45, stanley 93/4, block plane, benchplane, fore plane, planing, carpentry, shop, L. Bailey, bailey plane, antique tool, antique, plane blade, shoptools, milling, lumber, Stanley Plane Typing, Rex Krueger, Wood By Wright

Id: EHNqNriijVg

Length: 43min 52sec (2632 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 20 2020