Stanadyne Injection pump teardown and inspection.

this is a standard I'm injection pump out of a an old 410 dunder backhoe a little history on these pumps this is a rotary injection pump same if you got a Russa master injection pump it's the same thing as a standard I'm calm the story on these things is there was a guy named Vernon Russa back in the late 40s I believe it was 46 or 47 and he was looking for an alternate method to power a diesel engine versus the inline pump all the diesel engines back then were inline pumps and a lot of the tractors in the agriculture industry and a lot of anythings - you know diesel gensets things like that are all gas engines because the inline injection pump was very expensive to manufacture and any of you those you've been around these things you know how big and long take like on a Dodge pickup like a 12 valve if you had one with that inline pump on there how long and bulky they were versus the ve pump and how much more room you know you saved putting a rotary pump on there and these were way simpler way more cost-effective to to build and to rebuild on inline pound saw I rebuilt a lot of the standard I'm ponch for these farmers and I rebuild a lot of the the Lucas eav let's see here just this system in the last two three weeks I did a BPA pump on an old Perkins and a hay squeeze and then I did one on 1118 Johan slaughter and I had a Lucas CV DPS pump and actually I've got a DES pump out of a HW 320 new Han at my other shop torn apart but I'll cover this standard ein a pump actually you know I was thinking about that uh if you read up on the history this guy named Vernon Russo he came up to the pitch this idea pits this idea to standard on corporation and he was working he was installing gensets for some company there in New York and he was looking for a better way to power them with a diesel engine and you know an alternate method besides the inline pump so that's where it all came from as this guy who was running to Russa so this is a this is a four-cylinder usually you'll see on the model plate here like this one is actually I think a JD part and I'm around on a nine but JD b43 one that's it before it's addy beef the J is for I'm pretty sure for the John Deere but the DB 431 right there that's a four cylinder I've actually got another pump out of us I've got some spare parts here from strips anodyne pump people to do stuff away but here's a housing that came off like international UD 282 and see it s position this is a this one actually says Russa master on the on the plate and that one says anodyne on it but it's the same pretty much the same pop except this one if you read the model number we get the old camera to focus that's a DB GF 631 - six-cylinder see that six number in there this came with the six up you'll have six ports on your pumping unit back here instead of four so these are pretty neat I'm really too bad to do a lot of people were scared of them I mean I ain't gonna lie to you and the first one I ever did I was a little nervous but but uh I really took my time on the first probably the first can of them I ever did and it was really meticulous and I mean anymore I'm pretty fast we'll go through this one with the let's let's tear this one apart and let's see what happened with it I got it feeling like that it broke up probably worth the weight basket attaches to the to the drive assembly I think is probably gonna be broke or something like that because the the plan folds here that go into the front timing cover came loose and it was sagging and hanging on the shaft cuz on these span of nine pumps you'll see a slot down in there with a dot in it and the shaft I left the shaft with the Umbrella seals on the on the I just popped flange bolts to slide them off the shaft and when I put them back on I'll put two new umbrella tools on the shaft and then all and then I'll pull it back in and I take a flat or ring pick and I'll work my first umbrella sill in and slide it onto the shaft but the TV pumps you can't do that you got to actually pop your ejection drive pump gear loose and pop the pump out but that's just kind of a cheating way to do it without having to do that on these so let me get my tool three the first thing we'll do is get in the vise and we'll get our our top cover off which is going to have our fuel shut up solenoid here's your post for your fuel shutoff solenoid this is your ground for the coil inside this is your throttle arm down here is your mechanical time and advance unit right here your tool Inlet coming into here there should be a fuel Inlet screen in here and there's some valves in here there's a Rhonda member what they call that's like a return check in there but you just basically pull stuff out of there and put it back exactly like you got it they have some of these books online you can get I downloaded some of these off like trade bit you know for some of these pumps there's a guy on there that has a bunch of CV pump manuals online that I've downloaded so it's always good to have a service manual there so in case you get a spring or something that pops out on the pump if you have never took it apart before because I did I did it my first VPS pump I ever did I had a spring that was different than a DPA pump on the top here because it had a the DPA pumps don't have this the scroll rings on them like a DPS pump does well there was a plate up here that moved back and forth and it had a spring and it popped off and some of those things where you didn't know or the hell did that spring bill when I finally found a book on that one to where I could it took me a long time online to find a book for that DPS pump but I finally found one and found out with a spring Lenten before I put it back together okay well you guys have heard me rattle off too long on we'll start getting this pump torn apart so so first thing I'm going to pull your top Devereux for your fuel shelf so long it is flat blade screwdriver get some sake proof washers below these screws here usually those will come into real kit speaking of that DPS pump I rebuild the other day so I get the pump I get the Delphi kit for the pump silky and all of that that one was just weakened and I get it and open the box that there's no shaft seals on and the guys really wanting to start cutting hay and so I'm kind of flustered I'm trying to find me seal somewhere I pull the fuel injection shelf that I got the silicate finders all that's a different kid you got to get the different kit to get this the shaft seals and the kid I'm like dude I told you I wanted to complete seal kit you know it's really irritating why would you even make a kit a seal kit for the pump and not have to shaft seals in it I just can't just unbelievable okay there's your coil fear fuel shutoff solenoid right there it'll go back in here and pull on that ball link is what it does what it does the coil does a lot to show you here it will set this back to set the fuel off on these it will go in and hit that right there back in behind the call shaft and you got a little grooves in the case here and there'll be a seal in here okay so alright guys here is the internal parts of here if you're a top cover here issue your thoughts aft okay this is your total return spring here your governor is going to be pushing on that so you're going to have a disarm here you'll see these two nuts here on this it's like a pivot point for though for this for this comes up against the weight basket inside the pump here I'll show you the weight basket in a minute basically what this does is this running back and forth and right down here if you can see this little arm right down here that's where your metering valve is so when you hit the throttle say you want to hit the throttle and you give it more fuel that's going to move that metering valve now of course this weight basket is going to be spinning and all this stuff you know these Springs are all calibrated to where that that's not going to let it over speed it's going to you know it's going to put tension back on the weight and start shoving that back it will serve that metering valve back you know to limit their rpms so I can't run away with itself alright so next namely new pour fuel Inlet off and then we'll work at getting our uh tall shaft out of the top here because I'm going to completely reseal this and while not you'll have to pull this allen head off here and then there's a special little clip here you'll pull this special little clip offer right here I can get my fingers on it sometimes you got to get a parent even those pliers and get a little bit and pull it off and that will slide that toggle shaft out okay so then you can do here I'm not special a little clip ice telling you about just take it you'll see you want to get the shaft out when I'm talking about pull it out turn needle nose pliers little comes a little Halfmoon clip pretty special a little clip take this allen head loose music that will just pop on out of there just like so that little clip will go down in that groove right there this hollow shaft here it's just a female whole shaft like this and that clip basically sets down there and goes in that groove right there to hold the shaft in place and this will sit on here I like to just put all this stuff back kind of where it was where I keep track of stuff there's your thoughts aft never little either on the Falstaff that's going to come back and pull on that on the the linkage going back to that on rides on the weight basket there on the thought overturning screen which in turn is going to be moving your metering though so grab your 5/16 take these little nuts off the end here and I love the fittings on these old standard I'm comps and the old roots and master pumps labor pipe threads so usually if they're not leaking I leave them along it would be honest with you and we'll put them back together all the newer pumps have or rings on so you always just reseal them pipe pipe always leaks so if it ain't weakened when you tore it apart I'm kind of sore I just kept doing a walking beam suspension in a log truck and I'm just sore and you guys have ever done one of those Callie - what a pain in the ass those things are so I've grabbed my needlenose and what I'll do is I'll push it to one side there's an o-ring on each into the shaft - and I'll push it the other side push pull my lowering off the other side and a shaft up this slide right out of there just like that it's kind of a special little shaft you'll see that it's got a flat spot it's just flat on this one side and that was towards the front of the pump and it's kind of got a cut here another cut here and it's flat on the side - so the two cut sides go towards the back of there well from one station up ones towards the back of the pump it will only go under one way or it won't come out okay 7:16 here's your Inlet screen right here I was telling you about there's a little valve inside here - it's like a check return flow or something like that in there but you want to make sure that usually the kids will come with the new Inlet screen on there okay so let's get to that I might have to get or I should get on that I do remember then called a year since I've done a standard on I've done a budget Lucas CV pumps here last year so yeah see that that return spring rides on this stem of this right here here's your return spring get a little sleeve in there now we can pull that out of there okay that rides up against your wastebasket that's put that weight the weight basket once you see it once the weight spread out it's a typical force it pushes on this which moves this arm which in turn moves your metering valve we're going to right now okay there's our meter valve and you got a little bitty spring on the bottom of your metering valve so your metering valve just had a slot in it and when it turns it opens up this passage here to let fuel into the pumping chamber the pumping elements when it closes it will close it off and this arm actually sits in that little hole right there and that moves that metering valve back and forth for more fuel or less fuel this is a stop port here we'll settle let's sit down right here ok so now we've got the top of our top pretty much naked we've got our fuel Inlet assembly out now there's going to be some fuel in here okay now we're going to do we're going to take this little timing window off we'll reseal that and then we're going to take our four screws off the back here and take our vane pump out a lot of people don't understand it there's actually a little vane pump it's kind of like a hydraulic system read out like a charge pump to charge your main hydraulic pump kind of the same principle here you get a little lift pump this main pump inside here to supply this the main pumping element with fuel the high pressures pumping a little fuel supply fuel from the tank and a lot of them will have actually a lift pump mechanically an electric spark on the other side of the block there it's got a mechanical lift pump it runs off the cam on the other side of the block it supplies fuel to this look to this mechanical pump so find a good place to stand this thing will put it down okay so take your 4 cap screws out to hold your vein pop down somebody's had to back this off already because the safety bars all gone I don't know if it's really safety water it's just a anti-tamper but nuts you know somebody's tampered with it ok kind of the same principle as a DPA pump you'll have a locating pin right here on the head on this face of this plate ok and that will go in right a line up with the hole on the case and there's a hole let me get this off for where you guys can see that'll line up like that and then there's a hole in need I call it the eccentric ring that the veins right in the sea if I need to go to Fedor you that but that will locate right here just make a note of it when you're doing these pumps I mean some engines have different rotations or you know the pump might be on a different side of the engine so so this might be over here so just make sure make a note see this one's on the right-hand side where the locating pin was and then you can actually dig you're ordering out and get that dug out so I my pocket knife because I don't think I brought it already ticking with me and then you can grab your needle nose pliers and just pull your vein pump assembly out of there and they're spring-loaded these little Springs in there I want to put this thing back together we'll go through that in detail you also want to make sure that you get this face in the right way okay see this cutout right here see we've got CC on the backside of this pump or on this ring see here to see on this one it's going to face the outside okay so now we can take our pumping unit out these can be kind of a bear to get out if they've been in there a long time sometimes I've had to twist on them and beat on them and just really mess with them to get them to come loose so you'll have to take this this one's got a 12-point of bolt on here take these two I'm able to look like a fee answer those 7/16 so it's our half inch my hands cramping up these will going to hear popping the head here hold it in place and this one's got a 12-point bulk on it probably gonna have to go up to my service truck and find that 12 point socket then go on that or an image or something it looks like about a 7/16 toll for I think that's going to be what it is and I'll be back and go find a 7/16 toe pointed softly but upside down you'll have to take your little little actuator out or the first thing you want to do is actually pull your pull these out of each side of the actuator these will go in here like this and actually you'll see a little rounded off a little rounded button that goes on the end of that mechanical actuator there see that comes up against the rounded portion of this and sets in there like this there's one on each side of it what that does that will move that camera inside that pump to advance it left or right so you'll have one of these on each side this one is actually your adjustment for the mechanical advance here so then take your special take this take this and unscrew it out and now you're ready you can actually flip your pump right side up sometimes when you do this to wait some of the weights in the weight basket will kind of fall out on you another skiff when they come out not all the weight is still in that still in the housing that's no big deal go I'll show you how old I do so just so we're clear on this okay here's your weight basket here see that's going to be turning your pumping unit and everything there so what you can do is take your tough water you're going back to so you know how all that stuff goes back together see what lift up on this a small edge here that's going to go down you'll have to curl that up underneath your thrust washer like so if you take each one of these and tip them down now I should have started one on the other side that way it would kind of held that washer centered anyway you get the texture so we're going to be taking that off anyway so you do that on all six of those see a lot of goodell five pumps they only get you'll have two here and two here and these two will be empty on the Adelphi and DP points okay so pop the snap ring off now I got to change my snap ring pliers around to work they're expanding and not contracting ah I pulled your weight basket off okay here's your pumping unit okay pay attention to when you're doing this when you're back together with this you're going to have an arrow for pump rotation on your Camry okay see the arrow so this actually goes into the pump housing like that so usually they'll be an arrow on the housing just like this one right here well this one with an arrow point going going both ways but I usually just make a note of it usually one my roller or sell out but I usually just make a note of it that you know it's counterclockwise facing with the nose of the housing facing down like this counterclockwise is there these other like that one of the thing is not focusing and all that's clockwise see the arrow is going clockwise with the nose down that's the way you're going to be putting the pump back together is with the nose down so that's going to be counterclockwise okay so as you can see here this spins around here this is your these are your pumping elements here these rollers come up against this cam ring and move your plungers in now and here is where that threaded piece that I was telling you to take out before you pull that out of there usually that goes in there that will set it in there and what happens is that will move that back and forth you know it'll move it one way for advanced and one way for on the timing and you can pop your rollers out you know he said he heard something snapping this pump and I just don't see anything really broken or screwed up really to be honest with you mm-hmm unless it's up inside the pumping unit itself I don't think well this is really going to do is turn your veins there's really nothing inside here you know put some fuel galleries so they get the rollers out of it okay now tell you what this actually does when those rollers move in and out you're going to have okay here's one little plunger here you can see that and your other little plunger right there and when you go back together with these just take you know that the signing ends on here we're going to be touching each other I know I'm wrong about that see where the shiny ends on them are they're going to be touching where these other rollers were up against the Cameron so when those rollers run around on that on that cam ring you know for each stroke of that each stroke there this has got a four-cylinder engine in it so there's only going to be four plungers on it so you're going to have four lobes here on this Cameron and those move these are actually your pumping elements they go in here okay so they're going to move these in and out and basically when this thing's spinning around it lines up with the pumping basically I don't know I call it the fill port I'm sure it's a they basically line up with the ports and the closed support and all that to pump the fuel back into the injector back to the delivery valve and all that pop to fuel and these rotary pumps are way simpler than the inline pumps the inline pumps are I don't know it just seems like to meet her you got spill timing and all that stuff to deal with and they're kind of complicated you know but you'll see this here when this turns is just turning your the other end of your pump what she's turning your vane pump to which is you're kind of your little internal lift pump so there's not really much more to do here on this part of it I'm just going to reseal this thing and put it back together because I'd really don't see anything like he was telling me I just don't see anything that was broke or screwed up I mean this this internal filter here looks pretty clean actually amazingly clean for that old of a backhoe those guys actually must actually change their fuel filters the shaft when I had the shaft out it wasn't broken so I wonder if that thing sagged enough to work because that other shaft has just got a knots you know it's just got to square if it's down on this notch I wonder if it just slipped out you can almost see like this is this has got a little little wear on here I wonder if it just you know when it got loose it just popped back on him it's kind of what I'm wondering so well there is the breakdown of a Delphi uh another Delphi there's the breakdown of a standard ein rotary pump and they're all pretty much similar some of them don't have the snap ring right here that holds the weight basket on when you pull the pumping unit out it will just come out with this no weight basket will stay down in the housing so I'll get a seal kit for this thing and will tell you what it's like to go back together with it alright guys thanks

Channel: western truck and tractor repair

Views: 263,167

Rating: 4.8173914 out of 5

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Id: MpsJma1nvGg

Length: 35min 19sec (2119 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 30 2017