Squeezing More Power Out Of Our High-Performance 360 Mopar - Horsepower S13, E20

[Music] hey you know the motto around this place good horsepower is never good enough and that definitely applies to this 360 mopar we've built recently using mostly direct replacement parts with the exception of a more aggressive cam aluminum intake and new 650 cfm car the factory 360 made around 250 horsepower our version 314. all around good motor nice little motor and this is just a stock build we still got a performance deal aha that's gonna be fun yeah well that time is now it's time to pull out the stops and live up to our name just like we did with recent ford and chevy bills it's going to be an interesting challenge though you see we're keeping the original block and rotating assembly which consists of a steel crank and original cast pistons so we had to select parts that would make as much power as possible without tearing up that bottom end and it all starts with the heart of the engine the camshaft now just like before we're using a hydraulic flat tappet but this time it's a crawler piece with more lift and duration now to complement it we're using a set of proven edelbrock performer rpm aluminum cylinder heads to replace our factory iron ones now a lot of the parts you see on the table we're reusing from the first build since we didn't want to go overboard like the timing cover water pump balancer and pulleys something we are replacing is the carburetor and this one has some unique features but we'll get to that in a few minutes now for an intake manifold you might expect another edelbrock piece which would make sense for those heads but not this time we're going to try out this wine stealth intake and see what kind of power we get with this unique combination well we got some other new cool stuff to show you during the build-up but right now time to get to work and get that new cam shaft a bath in the parts washer washing and insolvent gets rid of the rust inhibitor used during shipping then after lubing it up with crawer's assembly lube we can install it in the block now the specs include a duration of 290 on the intake 298 on the exhaust with a max lift of 507 and 522 now that's all based on a rocker arm ratio of 1.5 the timing chain is an inexpensive part considering how important it is so we're replacing ours with this new double roller then we can put on the cover now with the gaskets in place we can drop on our heads the special length bolts included with the cylinder heads it's required for installation goes in the number five hole so make sure you don't forget it remember to torque your heads down in the proper order and always torque them in three progressive sequences by the way at 30 pounds each these rpm heads are a full 27 pounds lighter than those cast iron boat anchors there plus they got other features too like larger intake valves and free-flowing 177 intake runners [Music] next we can slide in the crower hydraulic lifters and the push rods we actually started prepping for this build last night when we mixed a bottle of engine treatment with a few quarts of break-in oil both contain lots of zinc and phosphorus that help protect the rocker components during initial startup after an overnight soak they're ready to go in this new direct fit kit was developed by harlan sharp the creator of the roller tip rocker it's made exclusively for the performer rpm heads just like the original design the rocker shafts deliver a supply of oil to the upper valve train of the 360. with sharps new setup the shafts and rockers are hardened for extra strength and the rocker tips are designed to create minimal valve stem sweep for better performance and longer wear you know sometimes it's the little things that make engine assembly easy like these little tabs on edelbrock's head gaskets they're there so that the intake manifold gaskets can rest on them and won't slip out of place pretty cool now we know they won't slip when we install this wine intake now it's bottoms up for the motor to reinstall the oil pan we're gonna leave our valve covers off for now that's because we want to see how well this rocker shaft setup distributes the oil well you know we're back in the dino cell just before we test the horsepower on our 360. stay tuned the best is yet to come we are back with more horsepower and soon we'll find out if our mopar is up to par and performance on our dts engine dyno as we mentioned earlier our 360 made 314 horsepower after a bare bones budget buildup a few weeks ago this time we've amped up the power by swapping to a crower cam with more lift and duration better flowing aluminum rpm performer heads and a high performance wide aluminum intake manifold among other upgrades [Music] now with all the sensors hooked up to the water tip and six quarts of oil we're close to hearing our new combo fire up we've got a little something extra to add to the oil this time you see crower includes a bottle of this zdd plus treatment with all the flat tablet camshafts they send out much like the rocker shaft treatment we saw earlier this has lots of zinc and phosphorus in it which attracts heat and forms a protective film on the cam lobes and the lifters remember the oil that's supposed to be coming out of these rocker shafts well it's not we've been priming this thing for quite a while and it's kind of like drilling for oil in a dry hole finally mike tries turning the motor over and bingo that's what we're looking for hey i'm glad we thought about that me too here's what was happening you see the holes in the cam shaft are drilled at a 90 degree angle and if they're just in line with the cam bearings well those holes get blocked and no oil gets to the top of the valve train when he turned the motor over well freed up the flow and now we're good to go the hardened oil pan rails on our rpm heads promote a good gasket seal and that'll reduce the chance for a leak this is the first time we're using one of holley's new ultra double pumpers now they use lightweight aluminum in place of all the zinc and this one measures in at 750 cfm this time the spark for our 360 is coming out of a mallory comp s distributor it's got a billet housing and easy to adjust mechanical advance and requires a cd ignition system for this combination we're using 91 octane premium fuel we used 89 on our budget bill runs we also made 314 horsepower back then let's see how a few upgrades can change that that is if we can get this thing to start you might can tell that mike's not in the mood for this today see if it hits now this little tester will tell us if we're getting spark and yeah looks like we're not no spark a tool like this can save a lot of troubleshooting time brand new distributor ignition box is working well that was my fault now we'll have some fire little damn this thing's touchy but she goes this time well looks like success [Music] shut it down or maybe not there's a wicked knock to it first place to look the rockers well they're fine so i guess the search continues must be deeper i don't care we'll blow it up if it's that's what it takes hey groucho marx turns into sherlock holmes i think he found something hell of an exhaust leak that noise was making me nervous when he first fired it up those gaskets you don't expect it to be a header leak but didn't sound like a header no it didn't at first that's what it was really harmonic right now got a leaky header and i'm gonna run it that way 371 5200 we were at 313 before yeah all right we're bumping up three degrees to 33 at 6 500 rpm 377 and 420 63 horsepower bolting on a set of heads and an intake slipping the cam in that's about it really yeah you know more timing yep this time 35 and a half degrees wow 381 425 that was significant there yeah where was the torque before i don't have it here but it's so oh my god well i'm supposed to keep that stuff with you yeah i know it but i didn't all right while i go do my job galley does his bumping the timing up to 38 degrees didn't like it then we maxed it out sometimes you don't know the limit until you pass it we love our best run a gain of 67 horses 24 foot pounds of torque you heard us mentioning a header leak earlier on the motor and well we could plainly see it through the window if you suspect you got one in your car here's what to look for you'll find some carbon around the problem area like we've got here between the valve cover and the middle of the header well now we know where it is let's see if we can find out why okay we're missing material right there now believe it or not in this case it's not the gasket's fault because i'm betting if you take a straight edge and run it across the surface of the flange yep right here in this middle port definitely a low spot best way to correct this problem is with the belt sander keeping the flanges flat as you level out the surfaces checking it frequently as you go of course it's not finished till the straight edge says so and well this time it says we're good and flat we ran a holley 750 on this mopar for the dyno test now if you plan on buying your first carb or you just want to get a little more up to date on your carb iq make sure you don't go anywhere we're going to show you how to take one of these apart and the anatomy of it when we come back see you after the break [Music] after more than a hundred years the carburetor still has the same basic job converting liquid fuel into a vapor mixing that with air to create combustion now most of you guys know basically how they work but from the emails we get you guys want to know more about what makes them work and the basic job of each component so today we're kicking off a carb tech series and it begins with the basics one of the main questions we get is how do i identify what carburetor i've got well the answer is pretty simple each carburetor has a list number either on the side of the main body or on the front of the choke horn once you've got it simply jump online or call the holley tech line and they'll let you know what you've got hollies have two styles of boosters the straight leg booster that's found on all vacuum secondary carbs and the dog leg booster that's found on carburetors made for competition engines now the style of the booster helps atomize the fuel more efficiently coming out of the squirter for better acceleration next up are the fuel bowls now they're basically a holding tank and work much like a toilet they get supplied fuel from the fuel pump and as the fuel level rises so does the float it closes a needle and as the engine consumes the fuel the float drops back down you get the picture of what happens next to go along with the float is the sight window now there's two types either one with a glass view or with a plug like this one now it's the only way to set the float level when the carburetor is on the engine you also have to have the fuel pump on or the engine running so make sure you have an adequate fire extinguisher handy behind the bowl is something called the power valve now it gives the carburetor a richer mixture when you push the throttle all the way to the floor now let's get a little deeper all primary and some secondary metering blocks have a power valve now it's basically a vacuum operated mechanism that opens on power demand now you can also change at which point they open which is measured in inches of vacuum now you can get power valves in the 2.5 to 10.5 inch of vacuum range the accelerator pump is located on the bottom of the fuel bowl now it's got two basic jobs the first one is to prime the engine prior to cold starts or fresh fire ups just remember too much priming can put the engine in a flooded condition now the second job is a little more complicated as you put the throttle in the wide open position really fast airflow through the carburetor increases faster than the fuel flow does so this lever operated by the throttle linkage and this diaphragm force more fuel into the throat of the carburetor to correct that lean condition the main jets control the amount of fuel being introduced to the venturi they're located in the metering block on the fuel bowl side now if you look close each jet has a number on it which represents the orifice size they're available in sizes 40 through 100 but here's something to be aware of once you get to about size 66 the number on the jet and the orifice size aren't consistent so keep that in mind now the final journey for the fuel through the carburetor is to the actual throat and that gets introduced right here through the discharge nozzle or also referred to as the squirter we showed you all the components that go onto the metering block now let's talk about the metering block itself all the primary ones have idle adjustment screws and here's something that's pretty unique to each carburetor the power valve restriction channels which are these two holes here are sized to match the cfm rating of a particular carburetor so the larger the carburetor the larger those channels are going to be hopefully that'll help raise your carb iq now we don't want to load you up with too much information right off the bat so in a few weeks we'll be back with more carb tech anatomy and even take care of some tuning tips but right now we're moving on to more horsepower you're watching horsepower for a dvd copy of this episode just go to powerblocktv.com and order your copy for just 5.95 plus shipping and handling start your own horsepower collection delivered right to your door from the power block [Music] hey welcome back if you hang around guys that work on cars long enough you're going to pick up all kinds of helpful hints that can actually make you work easier and faster sometimes funny thing is some are ridiculously simple and involve stuff that well you probably got around your house for example remember the header we blew out in the dyno earlier well after smoothing it out it's ready to go back on now anytime you're doing something like this and run out of anti-seize common ordinary malox works just as well it'll dry to a powder that not only prevents seizing it won't burn off now here's a question for you how could this foam rubber from a discarded cushion come in handy next time you're changing gaskets and a cylinder head well if you poke the foam piece down into the port like that it conforms to its size now just scrape away the old gasket material with no worries about debris falling into the port then just pull the foam out and keep it for the next time if you're really into car cosmetics you could go as far as to paint each engine bay bolt the same color as everything else and you could take each cap and paint it by hand and probably get as much on your fingers as you do here but there's a much easier faster way just take an old piece of cardboard and poke several boats through it then you can use the old rattle can paint treatment without any paint getting on the threads when x did you know the same vinegar you use to make a salad can help get rid of rust and crud in your radiator just make a 50 50 mix of vinegar and water pour it into your radiator let the engine run for about 10 minutes it'll break up the rust and lime deposits then you just drain and flush with water and you're done but will this stuff really work we've had this piece of rusty iron soaking in vinegar for a few days and well you be the judge but the most important one of all this is what you get with all that money you saved for your wife of course it'll make up for all that time you've been spending in the shop works every time trust me we'll see you next week

Channel: POWERNATION 2

Views: 184,988

Keywords: powernation, powerblock, powernation tv, powerblock tv, how to, cars, trucks, do it yourself, horsepower, mopar, 360 mopar, engine build, mopar engine, smallblock, V8

Id: ZmbU03PI9As

Length: 18min 3sec (1083 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 20 2021