Speeduino ECU Tuning Guide | Part 3: Trigger Setup & Spark Settings | Megasquirt, KDFI etc.

[Music] welcome back at least hopefully today we are going to continue our ECU tuning Journey so last time we looked at the basic settings and engine constants and today I'm going to explain to you the trigger settings mainly and uh this is especially important for getting the ignition right and for getting the engine running correctly as I've said in the other videos before if you have any questions or if you want to let me tune your car or have any questions about your build uh either write them down in the comments below or if the questions are more complicated um just send me a message on Instagram and I'll reply to you as soon as possible also if you have not seen the first two parts and are just coming into this F with part three uh maybe go ahead and watch Parts one and two to get up to speed on where we're at now next thing will be the trigger setup trigger setup is important for getting the car running as this is for the engine speed or rather for the RPM detection in some cases there is predetermined trigger setups for example for the naata for G63 or something if you're using the naata for example then you are using uh this preset this is using the Cass at the back of the Miata engine for example while the 99205 Miata is using a crank signal at the front of the crank and in addition to that a cam shaft sensor at the front of the engine on the 99 to 2000 NB and on the VVT engines uh it's uh cam sensor much further back and then there is already everything set for it if you're using for example a 36 too um and missing tooth trigger wheel you can select missing tooth this is also a very popular option and um most of the time this is going to be a 36-2 trigger wheel or I have also seen 12 teeth or 60 minus 2 on VW vehicles for example then you put in your base teeth so the teeth that is the that the trigger wheel is supposed to have and below that you are going to put in the missing teeth in theory most of the time it's going to be 36 and one missing teeth I have a 36 and two missing tooth so these are the basic settings for the trigger setup one thing that is also important or probably one of the most important things is the trigger angle so this is if you turn the engine to top de Center and uh you look at the trigger wheel this this is when the first tooth after the missing tooth passes the sensor and that is basically the degrees the crank is rotating for example on a stock Miata this is about 15° or 14° you're going to have to use a timing light to get the exact measurement um but if the crank is turning 30° and then tooth one so the tooth after the missing tooth passes the sensor then this value is 30° and this determines your engine timing so if you get this wrong this can mean very very bad consequences and uh can lead to engine failure maybe not at idle but under load if it is not timed correctly then this can lead to big big problems so be careful here and use a timing light and use it properly L skip Revolution Cycles if you have trouble starting at zero then it is recommended to put in one so that the engine turns over for one cycle until the trigger activates and um is counting teeth um this may lead to a better startup or a less of a hesitant startup you'll have to experiment around with that the trigger Edge and secondary trigger Edge is always depending on the sensor setup so if you are using for example a VR sensor you are using rising or which is the case for the stock Miata sensor on a hall sensor it could be falling but in theory normally it should be rising and the secondary trigger setup depending on again what sensor is rising on a 36-2 trigger wheel on the Miata flying Miata recommends though falling you also if that does not work out have to change it out uh change it around a bit or it could be also specified by your sensor type the missing tooth secondary trigger type is only needed when you are running a sequential ignition setup so um this is basically if you are running a missing tooth trigger then you need this if you're running sequential ignition because the ECU needs to know at what position the cam shaft is and most of the time it's a single tooth cam on the Miata and the Miata it is also a single tooth Cam and that is the thing that needs to be known for the ECU to get a correct sequential ignition signal on some ecus the ECU does not have to know this value it can do it without but on the speeduino and mega squirts unit it only works with the cam sensor for example on a dat Engine with the stock Set uh trigger setup this is great out because you always have to have a singlet Toth uh cam sensor and you can also check the box for resync every cycle so sync the crankshaft to the cam shaft every rotation or every 720° crank rotation and every 360° cam rotation you can set that to yes this will improve accuracy although this can introduce some noise so if you may have problems with high RPM um misfiring or RPM readouts you may be able to put that to know and if it gets better you'll just have to test that out the same goes for trigger filter this is if you have a again misfire or noisy RPM signal you'll see that when the RPM is fluctuating around or something and uh even when you are holding a steady RPM it is fluctuating then you can set different um strengths of trigger signal I wouldn't go over medium though because it can happen that if the signal gets too noisy just get a cut off RPM signal above some above some RPM number such as 5,000 maybe that can happen actually for startup purposes which we are going to look at mainly right now we also have to look at spark settings and check if your parameters are set correctly in this case on the stock Miata engine or stock Miata setup we are going using some uh wasted spark that means uh that two coils are firing at the same time and the other option would be sequential so that every coil fires when it needs to be due to the stock ECU or stock wiring only having two channels for spark plug or ignition Co wiring we would set this to wasted spark obviously there would also be for a distributor there would be single Channel or wasted cop for um coil on plug setup such as with yarus coils Nissan coils or VW coils cranking Advance angle would be the ignition angle that the engine uses while cranking I would recommend and somewhere between 5 and 10° depends on how well the engine is cranking how well it's starting you'll have to experiment around with that uh spark output triggers is something that is most of the time set to going low and not going High um this also depends on your setup and also depends on the engine below that you have enable fixed lock timing this is good for um changing the trigger angle and determining the correct base ignition timing you can put this to on and then set a fixed angle at which the engine is going to fire so you can set up the trigger angle correctly if you put in 10 here the L uh the trigger lines on the Miata crank pulley will line up with the 10° Mark obviously so this is ideal if you want to use a timing light for for adjusting the trigger angle but do not forget to turn this off again otherwise your performance will be very bad per tooth ignition events this is something that is not really necessarily a thing to have you have to activate but it is recommended on uh systems that have relatively few trigger spots like for example on a Miata you only have five spots you have four pins on the um crankshaft and you have one one pin on the cam shaft so resyncing every time one tooth passes will gain in accuracy and may lead to better power and less knock so this may be an option to enable but on a 36-2 or 36-1 or 60-2 trigger wheel this is not a must have dwell Arrow correction I have not tried around with this therefore it is not really something I have experiencing an experience with I would just leave this off since this is a closed loop tool to um determine if the ignition calls are misfiring or something so I just leave this off and go off of the stuff you know the last thing we'll need is dwell settings and this is dependent on your engine or your coil setup because uh depending if you have stock coils for example on a Miata or for example running cop conversion so you are having to run a different dwell setting um depending on how your ignition is set up because for example the Volkswagen calls use a lower dwell so this is basically the time it takes them to charge up and if the time gets too long this can lead to an overheating uh coil and um may lead to damage and this is also the reason why you cannot really run the coil on plug system on a stock ECU it may work for some time but you may damage the coils in the process uh so this is not recommended but if you have a programmable ECU you can always obviously change the coil uh the dwell um you what dwell to use is always listed in the either description of your specific calls or it has been posted online because everything is basically different overdell protection also makes sense you can put in the value a value above the cranking dwell so I would go for about 50% over the cranking dwell maybe a bit more if you encounter issues but that just helps um the coil packs not overheat and not melting basically and that's basically it for the base settings for your base map yes this was a long video but um I hope you could understand everything and if you have any questions just leave them down in the comments below I will answer any of this as I said you can write me on Instagram if you are as I said not wanting to do this yourself I'm also always open for uh tuning and uh willing to help you out with anything you need yeah that's basically it I wish you a nice day and goodbye [Music]

Channel: Throttlebuddies

Views: 1,640

Keywords: Tuning, Cars, Autos, Modification, JDM, ECU, KDFI, megasquirt, UA4C, NO2C, Adjustment, Programming, DIY, How to, guide, Tutorial, Settings, Spark, Ignition, Trigger, 36-2, 60-2, Setup, Miata, Turbo, NA, Hall, Sensors

Id: wy1Q9Q2OfAU

Length: 13min 2sec (782 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 26 2024