Speed Painting Showdown: Gloomspite Gitz Goblins! Compare 3 Different Techniques and Pick a Winner!

howdy everyone for today's Jolly Lark we're going to be doing a speed painting Showdown where we take three models all Bloom swipe gets by Games Workshop prepared in three different ways and see which one is the fastest and which one looks the best when speed painted the gits are great for this because there's not tons and tons of details so I can show you a few different techniques without going too deep in the Weeds on bits and Bobs and pouches and ropes and stuff like that so the three we've got here is we've got a classic model primer White we've got a xenathol primed with a secret right here so white over black plus a secret and we got your classic black primer right here right all right so what's that secret of the middle one the secret of the middle one is that before what you can kind of see here is that before priming the putting the white on so I started with black I painted the hands in a blue kind of like so so you can see on this model here the hands and the face have been painted kind of a medium blue and what that'll do is make the Shadows on the greens not quite so bright um or rather not quite so dark um so the Shadows on the black won't be quite so dark and what we'll then do is you can start with this then add a little bit of white primer you end up with something that has the benefits of xenophthal but has a little more differentiation in the shadows of the Shadows on the skin aren't exactly the same thing as the shadows and the black cloak which will in turn make the Shadows of the black cloak look darker so let's pull out some paints and get started with this video what I did is paint all the models kind of at the same time I bounce back and forth between them a little bit but I'm going to edit the video to show the step-by-step process for each different model that way if you want to follow along you can just skip to the style of undercoating whether or not that's white black or xenathol primer and have a clear step-by-step seemed a little confusing if I was bouncing around between the models so we're going to begin with the white primed Goblin I'm starting off with the Citadel contrast paint rattling Grime which is my new go-to contrast paint for painting black over a white primer it creates a okay highlights a pretty good differentiation between the highlights and the Shadows I don't love contrast paints for cloth I just feel like there's not quite enough texture there often for the contrast paint to really grab onto and if you really go slow and steady you can get a good result with it and just make sure that the paint isn't pulling up on the flat surfaces but then I feel like it kind of defeats the purpose of some of the speed speediness of contrast paints the other thing you need to be careful of when you're using contrast paints on a white undercoat is that you usually want to leave the parts the different colors of the model white until you get to them so means needing to be a little bit more careful about where to apply the black contrast paint because you don't want to get black contrast paint on the Goblin's face for example which is another way in which it's just a little slower to go on top of white primer now sometimes like for the shield that I'm planning to paint a rusty metal it actually is useful to go over the shield with the black contrast paint so that you get the black in the cracks and crevices and that'll make painting it metal easier later because the metal paints don't always work great over white so zooming in a little bit you can see on the robes it actually I think this looks okay I'm getting some darker darks in the recesses getting some lighter lights on the raised portions but I think this would be a I think all of these I'll just say this I think all of these would be fine I think a painted army is always going to look good on the table top if it's coherently cohesively painted and any of these would be fine so it might be worth doing a little showdown of your own and just see which one feels better to you because none of these results are are bad they would all look just fine as a big fully painted army project next I'm going to put a little bit of Vallejo chainmail onto the shield uh with the black already on the shield you don't have to be too careful about getting the silver into all the cracks and crevices just a quick swipe with silver over the shield we'll get that ready for a little bit of rust effects later on this model instead of the little handmade wooden swords has a club with a spike in it so a little bit of metal there and you're good to go so next up for the white primed Goblin is a little bit of snake bite leather on the shoes I'm putting a second coat on there because I forgot to record the first coat so just to kind of keep my time keeping correct I'm curious to see how long each of these takes to paint that's part of The Showdown so I'm going to give a quick slap of an extra coat of paint on the uh shoes and on the stick here um but this is both with the snake bite leather um and speed painting it helps use the same colors in multiple places and even if it's not quite as realistic I think can make the army look a little more cohesive with a more a limited color palette the snake bite leather is a great yellowy wood color I also use the scale 75 ink tense wood in a lot of my models but the snakebite leather works great too next up I've got just a little bit of the pro Acro bright Ivory I'm going to put just a speck of this on the edges of his face on the bridge of the Goblin's nose on the kind of point of his chin and I'm going to touch up the belt just a little bit where I got some of the black paint black contrast paint on the Belt area which is something you can always do if you if you you know I warned earlier about getting the black paint on areas you want to leave white but you know just touch it up with a little bit of white paint the pro acral Ivory cover is great and is is good for that so yep that just brightens up the highlights on the green skin a little bit there looking good once the metal paint is dry if I want to grab a little bit of this dark rust wash from voyjo's Mecca range and just put a little bit of this rust effect paint kind of a thin translucent dark red onto the metal parts of the shield I'm just kind of giving that a wash all over it'll naturally settle a little bit and it's a quick easy way to do a little bit of a rust effect a little bit of rust on the weapon too and that'll do it so I painted the bases uh kind of a brown black from Pro Acro off camera and one disadvantage of the white base is it does take an extra coat to fully cover up the white primer on the base whereas the bases that are primed black it's very quick and easy to paint them some other color so here we are in model two now we've got the model that was xenathol primed um white over black we've got the coat of green on the skin and the the brown on the shoes um just like we did before putting a little bit of the silver on the shield and we're putting this over on the shield first and then following that up with a ratlink coat of rattling Grime over the xenothal shading because the the white primer over the black it's still much too light for wanting to have even a faded black cloth I really was going for speed painting here um and as you can see the the rattling rhyme goes on pretty dark you don't get some of the pooling effects that you do going straight over the white primer um but it's darkening us this up a lot and really losing a lot of the xenophile effect now it's obviously faster to paint straight out of the bottle than it is to at all mix your colors I think that if you wanted to preserve more of those fall effect at the expense of slowing down your painting a little you might be better off here diluting the the black Grime contrast paint with a little bit of contrast medium or even just water that would help preserve a little bit more of the xanathol highlighting than we're getting here while still being pretty quick so with these robes done let me grab model number one that was primed white and we can do a little side by side so this is model number one model number two and you can see here that model number two that was the xenophile over the black primer it is a lot darker I can't fully see the effect yet because the paint's still wet on the one on the right but leave that up to you which one you prefer um I think maybe somewhere in the middle might be the right call I can put a little bit of a snake bite leather on the Rope belt of this one and we try to leave that white during the contrast painting stage but you know you've got a little bit about black on it not the end of the world like with the white primed model by using the same colors for multiple steps speeds things up so I'm going to go ahead and just use the snake bite leather for the wood as well for his sword these little swords I made out of uh styrene just because I thought I'd make goblins be even sillier still um and you can see I haven't mentioned this yet I'm a little bit of self-promotion these are the handles that I manufacture and sell the Jolly Lark painting handles one of the things I really like them I like about them like you just saw is the ability to easily and comfortably hold them upside down holding the miniature right side up isn't always the the best angle so really nice to be able to flip the model around spin it around easily with with the handles so I'm going to do the same rust effect on the shields which has been already painted silver just like we did on model number one and try to keep the details on these relatively similar to make the side by side at the end uh a little more comparing Apples to Apples all right now let's grab model number three uh this is the model that started off just primed black and what I'm going to do is give this just a a pretty light touch dry brush with the pro Acro bright warm gray just trying to hit the raised edges of the face and the hood and the creases I'm using the smooshing brush from Rosemary and Company which is one of my favorite dry brushes plus it has fun name to say the smooshing brush basically it's kind of a big fat soft brush that's got a rounded tip and it's really great for dry brushing so I'm giving this a pretty good layer of a light gray one of the things that's nice about dry brushing compared to airbrushing is you can really get it right where you want it with dry brushing I find that I much less likely to miss a spot um or you know put too much on it's just a little feels to me a little more controllable maybe that's because I'm wearing my magnifying glasses when I'm dry brushing and I'm not wearing my magnifying glasses when I'm airbrushing but I'll leave that up to you so this one is going to be a little more different than the previous two because we're not necessarily relying on contrast paints over a lighter undercoat quite so much for the skin I'm taking the proactyl yellow green as a base coat and then grabbing a paler green color to use as the highlight not exactly blending here um but I am putting on the base coat first and then immediately grabbing the lighter color to add a highlight while the base coat is still wet not really spending much time blending per se but you will get a little bit of accidental blending speed paint blending by putting on the base coat and the Highlight at the same time Pro aperol paints are great for this because they have pretty good coverage Vallejo game color works well for this because they have good coverage too that can be a little hard to do with uh craft paints or cheaper paints because you don't quite have the coverage and you need to put the base coat on and let it dry and then put it on again and then put the highlight color on but if you're working with a a good quality paint you should be able to kind of base coat and highlight at the same time and then I'm going to take a little bit of more of the pale green and really accentuate the angles of the face and the very top of the hand these goblins are really tiny I mean they're still the same 28 30 millimeter scale that other GW models are um but you know they're half the height of a human and when you're painting for tabletop play and you're painting an army not a single model you really want the the details of the model to pop out from a couple feet away and nice bright highlights really help do that I think this combination of pale green and the green yellow color I actually really dig this as a goblin skin color I think that looks good um I'm already liking how the dry brushing look on the robes too for the shoes on this Goblin since they're starting out black we're not using contrast paints again I'll stop saying that after this step I would use a little bit of the pro Acro light umber it's a great kind of neutral brown color for the shoes and just put a little little swipe of that on both shoes to brighten them out and make the Goblins uh kind of Good Feet stick out a bit more here's something you might find if you've been starting in the hobby since contrast colors were introduced and you're used to painting with contrast colors I'd encourage you to give painting over a black primer a try um painting blocking in the colors over black leaving a little bit of the black in between the areas of color really makes for a fun kind of comic cartoony painting style that used to be the norm before contrast paints were introduced so if you haven't tried painting over black give it a whirl so next up for the Rope belt I'm going to grab some of the golden brown this is one of my go-to colors from the pro Aqua range has really great coverage even though it's a yellowy brown it really covers the black nicely and I'm just using a nice thin brush for this that has a good point and just a quick swipe of the golden brown over the Rope uh not too much paint on the brush not too heavy a hand with the bristles to kind of give it a a light stroke there and make the belt pop now the belt does a lot of work to break up the robes on the goblin so it's nice to get that right like the first two I'm going to give the shield a quick swipe of silver because we're working over black here a little bit like the second one where we had already given the shield a layer of black contrast you can be kind of messy with this just you'll get the silver on the raised surfaces kind of a wet brushing you've got a decent amount of paint on the brush but you're not you know trying to give it an even coat because there's some of the black in the cracks is still there when you're all said and done that's totally fine now on this one that started black the wood of the sword got a lot lighter during the dry brushing stage I made sure to really dry brush the sword pretty heavily but I still want the edges of the sword to be a little bit brighter before we add any brown to it I'm just grabbing a little bit of the bright Ivory um and kind of touching the edges of the sword just give a little extra layer of highlighting to the wood of the sword and put it on in kind of a vertical streaky sort of way to emphasize the wood grain and then because we're doing this pretty quick I've still got the light umber on my palette paper there and I've got the ivory so I'm just going to mix all of those two together a little bit to make a little bit lighter brown um which is something you can do just kind of pay attention to what's still wet in front of you and use that lighter brown to create a quick highlight for the fronts of the shoes and you know with the idea that it's going to look like kind of rugged scuffed leather and like I said with the highlighting the chin and the nose I'm wanting kind of sharp highlights putting a nice sharp highlight of a light brown on the cap the tips of the the shoes works well now some things contrast paint just works great for so I'm going to grab the same pot of snake bite leather contrast paint and use that on the wood of the sword you know when you're trying to get an army project done pretty quickly you don't want to be too beholden to any rules you've set for yourself so we've mostly painted this model without contrast paint but I just really like the look of the snake bite leather for wood and trying to give it kind of a scuffed look where it's fading towards the tip a little bit see him kind of paints them on rub it off with my finger paint a little more on rub it off with a brush paint a little more on um it's you know just kind of get a little bit more of a gradient from the base of the sword and have it get a little bit lighter up to the tip while I've got the snakebite leather out add a little bit of water to a brush full of it and then you can use that to shade the Rope belt to put kind of just kind of create a little quick brown wash to go over the Rope belt and make the the threads of that rope stand out just a little bit better so whenever you're speed painting it's just nice to look for opportunities to use paint that's already wet on the palette in front of you let me do the same thing with the shoes there a little bit of thin down Brown over the highlighted leather kind of pulls that bright highlight and the base coat of the brown together just like the first two a little bit of the mecca dark rust on the metal of The Shield to to rough that up and add a little bit of color all right and here we have our three goblins you probably can tell which is which but I've mixed up the order a little bit I put my favorite in the winners position in the middle which is starting with the black primer I actually was a little surprised I thought I was going to like the xenophile primed one better but I kind of like how those robes turned out um just with the the dry brushed gray I feel like it has a better black robe effect than either of the other two now this is all with like the big old asterisk caveat that I was trying to paint these really fast um this is three models painted in about 15 minutes which is a little bit slower because I'm recording everything oh I can see that I missed a little spot on the wood Club there on the the one on the left I've still got some snake bite leather out of my palette just touch that up a little bit and all right back to it so yeah I mean side by side all of these could be improved upon but none of these took more than about five minutes four or five minutes a model these are fast the bases aren't quite done uh you can season to taste there um I think any of these three techniques would look great as an Army on the table but of the three I think that that middle one's the winner which was just the starting with black and then dry brushing the robes and painting the shoes and the skin a little more traditionally with opaque paints over a black primer rather than contrast paints over a light or xenophile primer so with the winning model here I'm just going to take it a little bit further and show you the difference here I'm going to take a little bit of a bright red this is from uh the two Thin coats range of paints but any bright red would do I'm just going to dot the eyes with a little teeny dot of red Goblin eyes are easier because they're just all red which is nice and then to kind of blend things together and add a little bit of shading I'm going to grab some classic null oil um put a little bit of wash of null oil in the Goblins mouth to darken up the area between their teeth Put a Little Gnome oil on the bottom skirts just to to blend the dry brush highlights in a little bit darken the Shadows just a little bit and provide a little a little extra shading you can see that the the highlights still stay pretty bright but it just kind of kind of pulls everything together it actually won't look quite so dark when it's dry but kind of I think it looks good and you can leave the the top highlights as bright as they were it is something to remember when working with the washes they tend to look a little bit darker when they're wet than when they dry and you can they've got a good bit of working times you can see here on the hood I'm putting some normal oil around the base of the hood then kind of rinsing my brush off and spreading it out so there's not any null oil on the tip of the cab affordable known oil kind of on the bottom half of the shield provides a little bit of extra shading to the details of the shield there like so just kind of not all over but just kind of on the bottom half of things bottom half of the robes bottom half the shield the other thing I wanted to do that I saw is that it's like the wood of the sword didn't quite turn out what as well as I wanted so I'm going to give it a a light dry brush on the edges with the pro acral red gray which I think is a nice wood highlight color just brings out the texture just a little bit more uh than the wash alone did and with the same idea as the robes I'm going to grab a little bit of the the orc flesh wash from the two Thin coats range but any kind of Darker green wash would do it and just add a little bit more definition to the skin just very lightly I'm not flooding the area but in between the fingers underneath the bottom lip a little bit in the eye sockets and kind of the cheekbones it's a teeny little touch of a darker green wash in the the cracks and crevices of the skin just make that skin pop a little bit more all right finish up the base real quick got a little bit of dirt on the robes and there we have it so with just another couple minutes three or four more minutes on this model I think it's taking it up a notch or two and I'd be totally happy to field 40 of these little green guys on the table I think this is a great looking little speed painted model uh now you know eight or nine minutes a model times 40 is still a pretty good chunk of time to be painting but these will be fun to uh get onto the table and send a horde of goblins uh headed the other way so if you thought this was useful I'd be curious uh let me know I think this could be fun to do with other models from other ranges let me know in the comments if you have any questions as usual uh check out links below for order your handles and we'll see you next time for another Jolly lark

Channel: JollyLark

Views: 5,604

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Id: W-JwqM0RmpQ

Length: 22min 58sec (1378 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 24 2023