Snapmaker Tool Changes: Fusion 360 3D Relief Milling

hello everyone welcome to snapmaker tool changes this time we're going to be doing this in fusion 360. so if we load up our fusion 360 we'll start with a clean slate here and you go out on the internet and like thingiverse or some of these other places where you can get sto models from we can download stl models bring them into this program here and then do relief cuts in wood with cam tool path so let's go ahead and load in our stl there's two ways you can load in an stl in fusion 360. one is by going to this insert tab here and clicking insert mesh and that'll insert the mesh in here you can click pick the plane that you want to set it on you can pick how you want to tilt it you want to lean it you want where you want to put it anywhere on there and then it sets it on there or you can go over to your tab here and open like a new file from you like your hard drive or from icloud or wherever there's the reason they have two different ways here is one just opens it up and throws it in to a brand new open program here and runs that just the way it is when you insert a mesh it loads it in there with other properties but you cannot edit that mesh because it's a b rep and not a t spline so you have to edit all kinds of stuff to it to get it to where you can manipulate the file to put cam files on it cam pass i'm sorry on there so the best way to do this would be to go over here click open right here it's gonna bring up this window here what you can do is go open from my computer because you've already downloaded this file and you want this fishing bears file so we're going to click that one we're going to load it into fusion 360 here now like a lot of things the size and dimensions aren't going to be what you want it to be so we're going to have to change the size of this to get it down to something small enough that we can cut on the snap maker okay here it is it's all loaded in so now that it's loaded in there's a few things we need to do to this we need to resize this so in order to check let's check out and see what size it is so let's click the top view on our view cube up here and that's going to be looking straight down like as the z-axis going straight down into the center of that so if you go up to the top of the screen up here and this tab right here says inspect if you click the word inspect a little drop down comes in the first one in the list there is measure so left click that that brings open this little window here now how you measure something is you put your mouse on here like say let's find the part the tallest spot here so if you notice there's a little circle there next to the mouse pointer that's what you want to see so you left click there that's going to set your first dimension and then you find the farthest dimension down the other direction here and you left click on there once that comes up this window will come up here make sure your delta is checked and then this is going to tell you exactly what dimension that is and that is 266 millimeters wide from this top height all the way down to the bottom height here and we'll restart our selection we can come over here and click on the width part here and it looks like we're gonna have to click all the way over here on this part here and since you got the delta the delta will go straight across gives you the exact dimensions there's also other ones on here like the distance that'll be the distance from here to here but it's like a long shot from like here plus this it adds a bunch of other dimensions in there that's why you click the delta here and it tells you exactly what that dimension is so our y dimension is 1101 millimeters wide so that baby's really wide so if you go up here and click your dial up here your view cube and come down to the front view we can run our mouse wheel and zoom in on this and we can look and see how wide this is let's reset our selections click up here click down here you see in your z it's 800 millimeters thick so that's well beyond the size of the staff anchor so let's close this out we'll go back to our regular view here this house view brings up this view here which is nice because it gives it like a cross-section view like an angle you'd see a lot of depth and stuff with it i like that view a lot it's a good default view any rate so we're on here we need to change the size of this so what we're going to do is we're going to left click on this it lights it up so that's selected turns it colors so mine is blue i believe yours will be blue too i think you can change the colors of those as well what things are selected or not but that's another issue so it's selected go up here to where it says modify select left click that you want to scroll down this list here to where the word says scale and what that's going to do is going to change the size of this so left click your scale button this brings up this tab here here's the scale you want the biggest thing on here is you want to make sure that this says uniform because that's going to shrink this down in all directions in your x y and z at the same time now i already know about what size i want to make this so i want to set this this number right here is a whole number so it thinks this is a whole like one so if you want to say you want to make this half the size then you would change this to like 0.5 so that's half of a hole so that will cut this in half and so on and so on but i'm going to make it at .02 and then select okay now you wait a second here this stuff will go away that means it's done calculating and doing what it's doing and then you can zoom and do whatever you want okay we're all set here i'm just going to click my house it's going to bring it in nice and quick up here i'll click my top view so i can look on it if it gets screwed up here like this where it's not in the right view there's arrows around the cube here that you can click that will spin that so there we go now we're going to measure this again so let's go up here we're going to select inspect select measure remember when i say select that's always left click go down on here let's click on a spot here [Music] let's click on a spot here make sure our delta z is now you notice that our x now is 97 millimeters from this point here to this point here so it's just under four inches a little over three between three and four inches okay let's reset this let's go and do our width again let's click here and we'll click up here and we can see our y now is 69.9 millimeters almost 70 millimeters so it's just under three inches so you got basically a three by four inch piece more or less and let's do the z-axis so we'll click on this little arrow here it'll spin it to the front reset our measurements let's zoom in here we'll go up to the top up here we'll click up here and then we'll click down here 16.046 millimeters so you know that's a little less than uh what a half inch there so that's pretty good i think we're gonna stay with that so we'll just hit close because it's just a measurement you can go back up here and hit your your little house here your home position now that we've got our bear to our project here to the right size that we want to cut let's go to our design shop but before we do that let's save this so if we have any problems we don't have to go and do that all over again a nice thing with fusion 360 is when you make a save you will save different versions so every time you save you can you're able to put a comment in there so you know what that next save is or whatever how you want to place that so it saves all those so you can change to any version that you want or any save that you want that you've done so if you've messed up you know and you can go back to saves or whatever before you messed up and start all over again it saves a lot of time so we'll go up here to file and then we'll click on save now since you haven't saved on this yet it's going to ask you to save it as something so i am just going to call this fishing bears i want it all one word fishing bears just like that and then i'm gonna hit save okay now that's saved we can do whatever we want we can get out of this we can come back tomorrow load this back up and it'll be exactly this size right here three by four by about a half inch so now we want to put cams on here toolpaths and all that so let's go up here and we're gonna click our design button we're going to scroll down here to where it says manufacturer left click on manufacture that loads up our cam tool area here in this area here is where we're going to add multiple tool paths so on the first cut your first cut is always what they call a roughing cut and a roughing cut the only purpose of your roughing cut is to remove excess material that you're not going to use it's used strictly for speed for speeding up the job you know speeding up your cut the process of cutting this whole job because if you cut this with a small bit say a 1 8 bit or even smaller this is going to take hours and hours to cut even as small as being a three by four because of the layering that you have to do in order to whittle this down to a half inch because you can only take up so much for each cut i'm going to use a quarter inch bit i suggest you purchase a quarter inch flat end mill with two flutes you want the quarter inch shank that way you can be able to mill this the same way i'm doing it's a lot quicker you'll remove a lot more material and it's going to save a lot of wear and tear on your machine so based on that note the first thing we need to do on here is we need to set up our stock we need to tell this thing this computer here what piece of material size shape and all that locations of our home positions and da da da that we're going to save so what we do is we go up here and click this save button once this pops up here this is gonna put a generic default setting on here we can change all this so this is your little setup dialog right here this is your setup box this little shadowed box on here represents your stock that you're going to cut this out of this represents your start position this little um i forget what it's called you know what i'm talking about so you can move this around see all these little circles on here you can pick whatever starting spot you want so based on all that we're going to start from the very top up here this says machine on your first tab here your setup tab this says machine since i only run the snapmaker machine i never set up the machine in fusion 360. you really don't need it unless you run a bunch of machines with all these different types of setups and different types of tools and different types of everything that's when you will need to set up something like this otherwise the same thing is going to come up every time you run this program is what you want because you're running your snapmaker so based on that we'll just leave that alone go to your setup your setup needs to say milling if you click on this it'll have a drop down of several different things you're turning your cutting and your additive your turning is going to be like lathes your or uh also be your your rotary your cutting is going to be like plasma torch your laser operate um cutters stuff like that your additive is gonna be your 3d printers so we want to do milling because we're doing cnc work here so we make sure that says milling the next box down here is the coordinate system on here that's what this is your coordinate so we want it to say model orientation we want it to say the stock box point and then it'll highlight this up so that you could pick whatever spot that you want on here so i want to pick the lower left corner of my that's going to be my home position so if you click the top spot here on your uh cube here on your view cube and then position it so you can see it this is how you will see it on your machine right here so this says top so you can read it then you can see this like here it's going to cut just like this so this is going to be my lower left corner so that's going to be my start position my home position when i start the program to go cut it's going to start from right here and then come up and go wherever and cut so based on that note we're going to go to the next section here it says model you want to select your model if this isn't already selected as a mesh come down in here and select your mesh you might have to click on a few spots around here to get it to get it to select you might have to go up underneath here but once you let me here let's do this i'm going to exit it out here so i don't have nothing and then i'll go click it there so it was already selected so it wouldn't let me reselect so you select it so that your model shows up there that's the only thing you have to do on here fixture you don't have to worry about that go to your stock tab here left click now what this is going to do this is going to determine the size of this box okay so always on the top well actually i start at the top here the mode the mode is a different types of box you want to do there's either a square or there's a tube or there's a round or there's a solid where actually it'll conform to the shape of your your item so i want a relative size box and i want it to be able to add to my box so you can select this either add there's a couple different options we want to add to the sides and the stop you can also have it add to all different sides and it'll give you an option on here to add a little bit to every side on here but we only want this and what i want to do is i want to make sure my top is a little bit larger than my part here now see this really doesn't matter for your actual stock piece that you're going to cut this out of because you're going to have a bigger piece than this anyways so this is just for generating your tool pass it's mainly confined your tool pass within this little area so based on that we have our stock offset this is going to be the sides that's going to be all the way around at once so if you change this you see the box grows see now we're five millimeters bigger all the way around so i'll put this back to one and that is basically about it you know they're all pretty self-explanatory on here this right here this is the dimensions this is important because this tells you basically how big of an area that you are going to cut with your snap maker so you are going to need at least 100 inches wide or millimeters wide 72 millimeters in the y and you're gonna need at least 17 you know millimeters in your depth there your z so that kind of gives you an idea how big of a piece that you need so you're talking about a three by four by half inch thick so once that's all done there we don't have to worry about the post process because all this information you're going to end up entering someplace else anyways so you can enter it here or enter it somewhere else it doesn't matter we're just going to hit ok that's our setup now we have our setup piece all set up ready to go now it's time to do the dirty work and add some tool pass the kind of tool pass for this kind of cutting is going to be two types you're going to have some type of a roughing and then you're going to have some type of a finish basically this is a 3d shape because you got your length your width and then you got your height so based on that we're going to want to do a 3d type cutting so we'll go up here we'll click our 3d adaptive cutter here where it says 3d adaptive clearing these are all actually all the different types of you know cutting styles that you can you know cut on here they all do something different if you put your mouse on there they will show you what they do basically if you see this line on here everything below this line is pretty much a finishing deal everything up here above the line is pretty much a roughing so basically we're gonna want your adaptive clearing so we'll left click that this pops up your little pop-up menu here that says adaptive and that's going to tell this what how and where to cut and what to use so we'll just start right at the top where the first tab here is your tool tab we need to select what type of a tool we're going to use we're going to use a quarter inch two flute flat end mill with a quarter inch shank so we'll hit our select tool if you've loaded up your tools from the snapmaker um website or facebook page there wherever they've got them on there actually it's on their download section of the snapmaker.com website there you can get the all the stuff to do all your tools in here and for your post so obviously you've done that if you've reached this far so i have added a tool in here for my quarter inch already you can do the same basically all i did is i went over to my tool library over here and i selected a metric one and then i changed it edit it to the size and the shape and everything of the tool that i have that i will run another um quick little video on how to create tool special tools in fusion 360 at a later time but at this point we're just going to go ahead and click on our quarter inch flat end mill and then click select okay once we have that on here it will place if you've noticed a tool on here here's your tool with the tool holder that's showing you right where it's going to start from remember i clicked the corner of that box right there so that's where it's going to start from okay so back to our tool tab here we've selected our tool the very next thing is coolant we don't run coolant on the snap maker so this must say disabled if this says anything else on here it's i don't know if it's going to do anything or not so just make sure it says disabled down here is your feeds and speeds for the particular tool that you are cutting with i am cutting with a quarter inch two flute flat end mill and with that one i can travel speeds of anywhere from 1000 to 1500 millimeters a minute and i like to travel this one right around 1500 millimeters a minute so i put make sure you're in your cutting feed rate change that to 1500 now this will make your cut feed at 1500 wherever it's going once that's all set that's all we need to do on this tab here we'll go back up to the top here we're going to go right down the list here the very next tab is geometry left click geometry now what geometry does is going to select areas around for your machine it's going to select boundaries it's going to select your model it's going to select heights and other things so on here let's start the first one it's called geometry what we need to select in here is silhouette so i'm going to select silhouette and what that does is it basically selects your shape of your model and that's where it's going to conform more or less the tool path to the next drop down is how it's going to cut is it going to cut on inside of your tool line of your path is it going to cut right on the path or is it going to cut to the outside of the path what we want is we want to center on the boundary or center on the path an additional offset is going to add to the outside of your part so you see this here this boundary that goes in here let me click on the top view here this boundary that runs all the way around your part here what it would do is it would extend it out away from that whatever this amount is so if i go in here and extend this out to seven millimeters my tool is a six millimeter so i extend it out a little bit wider than my tool it's going to create a little bit wider silhouette path all the way around this now you can go even wider and it would expand it way out you can change the shapes of things and make this a square and cut out this entire square well if you cut out this entire square that's going to end add a tremendous amount of time onto your cutting just be prepared for that there's a lot of different options that you can do and change with this so i'm just giving you a basic quick view of how to put something in here throw some tool pass on it and cut it out on your snap maker with multiple tool changes so based on that we're back here at the additional offset of seven millimeters that's going to give that path around here a little wider that's all we need for there the next option here is stock contours we don't use that for relief cutting that's made more for box type shapes or shapes there are squares with holes and notches and ledges and all kinds of other things that are in them so you can select specific areas on your project to cut and not the entire object we want to cut the entire object so we are going to unselect stock contour the next box here is called rest machining rest machining is exactly what everybody's been asking for this is where you set up your multiple tools the first thing you have here is a source the source is basically how and what it's going to read from since this is the very first cut that you're making your roughing cut you want to make sure that you have from setup stock so it knows that you're taking a stock blank piece of wood and cutting this out the other option on here that we will use but it on a next bit will be from previous operations so it knows that there was some machining done prior so basically on this note we want from set up stock because this is the very first thing we're doing the next thing on here is called adjustments and we want this to be set at ignore cusp and what that means is if you have this checked as used as computed or machine cuss what it's going to do is it's going to take your bit let me zoom down in here and it's going to kind of come down in here and get all these little areas that are all detailed or like around the mouth the nose the hair and everything with your large bit and it's going to add a tremendous amount of time on there and unnecessary cutting that you do not need we need to remove material and remove material only and not do any kind of fine cutting so we want to make sure this says ignore cusp this adjustment offset just leave that at .05 millimeters that is one of the most best settings that you can have and what that is is if for some reason this calculates somewhere some possible way in your drawing somewhere where an area where it might cut out one of the little smaller areas it won't cut too deep it will make sure no matter what it's going to leave point or point five millimeters left no matter what so we'll go on to the next thing the next thing is model we want to check the model and then we want to make sure we select our model so that hides up here is mesh just just like that okay once that's all done let's go to our next tab our next tab is called heights what heist is this is for tells you everything about your project tells your top the bottom of your pieces it tells your your um travel heights for your bit all kinds of stuff so if we click our front tab here our front view on our cube let me shrink this down here and show you here okay see these lines these lines represent these boxes here the bottom box here is actually the bottom of your stock this next blue line right here is going to be the top of your stock the next line up here is actually going to be where your tool clearance is at so say you're cutting over here and it gets done cutting over here and it wants to come over here and cut instead of just driving through all your material here ruining your part and then cutting over here it will lift up to this spot travel along the line and then come back down and cut over here this is like a safe clearance so your tool comes by doesn't hit any of your part it is very important that that stays above your part i like a nice five millimeters it's not too high and it's not too close you get it too far then you spend a lot of travel time going up and down up and down when you go in between cuts so we'll just leave it at that the next line up here is going to be your clearance height and what that is is when you start and finish a job that's basically where the tool will go so we're not going to mess with any of these we can leave all those default settings we'll go to our next tab our next tab is our passes tab this tab here has actually all the fine settings for our tool this was we're going to describe how your tool is going to cut so most of the stuff on here you will not use for what this is but i will kind of explain some of it your tolerance never touch this basically what this does it affects the the cutting path of your tool so your tool is following along the path as it's going around it is allowing 0.1 millimeter of variance from that line either way so if you put your mouse on here you'll see a little picture of it and you'll see what i'm talking about just leave it like it is it's fine it's nice and tight it's good you don't need anything major because it's just gonna add a lot more cutting time on here and this is wood it's very forgiving you can have a lot of flaws and a lot of mistakes in here and you'll never even see it so we'll scroll down to the next thing it says machine shallow areas we do not want to machine or shallow areas because that's kind of like our cusp on the other tab we don't want to do any of it we just want to remove material so leave that alone the next is optimal load what this has to do is how much pressure that you're putting on your cutter in order to keep the tool from chattering it allows so much movement around on your cutter so this kind of keeps a little contact against the wood at all times just leave it alone the default setting is perfect the next thing here is a cut to like different directions it's going to cut i don't use it you probably could it's just going to change the pattern of how it cuts and stuff it may speed it up it may not like i said i'm just giving you a rough estimate on how to do this you can come back in later and play with all these settings at your own leisure so the next thing is your minimum cutting radius again this is something that you don't really mess with on something like this this is more of if you're cutting like pocket style cutting um where you're going into a corner and your bit is too big for that corner so it will not go into the corner but if this is low enough this number it will actually try to force its way into that corner to meet that demand and it will either move your part damage your machine or break your bit i suggest you just leave this alone i'll show you a little picture here of what it looks like if you notice down in the corner the one corner is round and the other corner is pointed one of them doesn't the pointed one has it set at zero and then the one where it's rounded has it has a number set to it we're set at 0.635 millimeters that's perfect for a quarter inch bit leave that alone again here's another machine cavities style button we do not want that checked because again that's going to try to machine out all these little holes and everywhere it can possibly get all we want to do is just rough this bad boy out so we're gonna uncheck machine cavities next thing is gonna be a direction again it's like your direction up here it's a different style you have a conventional and a climb if you put your mouse button on any one of these it'll bring up a dialogue on here and explain to you what that does just leave it on climb climb is fine the next thing here is your maximum roughing step down this is very critical this is the amount of material that this is going to rough out or cut out in a single pass with a quarter inch flat end mill on the snap maker with a weak bed because this only our beds only have support in the middle so in the y axis the bed flexes quite a bit you can get a lot of vibration if you try to cut too deep into your material and that will destroy your snap maker and that is a very bad thing the max you can cut with a quarter inch end mill is one millimeter to one and a half millimeters max if you ever go past one and a half millimeters you're on your own you will you basically you will vibrate your machine to death you'll wreck all the guides and everything in it just do not do it so based on that note i want to take a one millimeter cut with my quarter inch flat end mill so that's one millimeter deep your final step down is after it's milled all the way down to the bottom usually there's a little bit left over it will try to do the final step down in that amount i don't want that i want it to be a little bit bigger so i'm not taking all day trying to mill out the last little bit because it'll do it in a couple passes being that small so we'll just change this to 0.5 millimeters so it's a half a millimeter flat area area detection you do not want to check that if you check this it will ignore your step downs and it will mill straight to the bottom and try to mill all that stock out at once it will bust your snap maker it will bust your bit it will bust your table do not do it you can do this in certain tools like in a finishing tool you do a flat area detection because you do not have all that material in the way to mill out first because it's already gone but that's in another another step so back to the next one the minimum axial engagement that's another thing that has to do with how much you can make the blade or the bit i should say contact the material leave it right there it's just fine it's not going to hurt nothing these two options here order by depth and order by area has to do with how and where it's going to start cutting and finish cutting order by depth we'll pick areas and by depth and cut that so it could go over here and start at the very bottom and then come over here and start at the top and then come over here and want to start at the bottom you don't really want that on something like this so but what you do want is order by area because when you click that what it's going to do is instead of like if you don't have it checked it'll cut a little bit over here and then raise up and move over here and then come down and cut a little bit here and raise up move over come down cut a little bit here now you got all this travel time going back and forth back and forth back and forth if you do it by area it will machine everything over here before it moves over here and before it moves over here so it will gradually work its way across your part the next area is stock to leave this is another section that is very important if you're doing multiple tool changes since we are we need to have this checked and we want to leave some material left over for our final pass since we're going to using a small bit for our final pass we want to use a small amount just the smallest amount we can leave on the material 0.5 millimeters or a half a millimeter is perfect so we'll leave that just like it is don't worry about the fillets because we're not doing fillets on this smoothing we can check the smoothing because it'll kind of smooth out your cut a little bit and it'll make it make it run um not so rough when it's doing it so i like to check that and i also like to check my feed optimization because what that does that will reduce any kind of speed in the corners so if it's cruising along here and it's going too fast to a spot where it's got to lift up it'll slow down lift up and then speed back up after it clears that spot so it doesn't crash your tool it's it definitely helps so on there that is everything that is on your passes tab now let's go to the last tab the last tab is called linking the linking tab is where all your clearance is at where all your lead-ins all your ramping and where you can start and stop positions if you would like the only thing on here that i ever messed with is going to be my ramp and what that does is when you take your bit and drive it down into your material for the first time it makes your first initial cut it ramps down into the material there's several different types there's helix basically and there's a plunge basically there's other types but that's more or less what they are and this is what they do in a nutshell plunge drives straight down in there like a drill bit like you're drilling a drill helix will circle around in a little circle moving down little by little every revolution around in a circle on a predetermined path you can tell it how high how fast how big the circles are with that that's what this is here your helix so if we do your helix and then your ramp angle here is going to be the angle of your thread so think of it as like a thread that's going down into it we want our threads to be as wide as possible otherwise you're going to have like 15 20 revolutions and it's going to take like a whole minute to go down there so we're going to stretch that out a little bit let's change this to 15 degrees don't worry about your ramp taper angle it's just leave it at zero this is another one that you want to change this is your ramp clearance height what that does is how high above your part it's gonna start doing the circles we don't need it two and a half millimeters up one millimeter is plenty that being said we can leave everything else just the way it is now it's time to see if this baby's gonna work so before we move this around here and click that i'm gonna click my home position so i can watch the tool path form we're gonna click okay it's gonna do a bunch of math and it's gonna think about it and then it's gonna start placing the tool pass on here this could take a few minutes so let's see what happens okay and now we have our tool path we can look at them let me click on the front view here and now you can see every tool path is in here all the levels everything looks good so we'll click our home now one thing we need to do here before we move on to the next step is we need to verify everything come out okay make sure our tool pass make sure there's no collisions like our a bit hitting our material or or clamp or something but we're not gonna do clamps in here but it's mainly gonna be for your material so if you scroll up to the top up here this little button up here it says simulate we click on that left click it's going to open up your simulate tab on this tab you have three little tabs on here the first one is display the top one is for your tool it's basically going to show your tool on here cutting you can either have it on there or not your tool path this is another thing if your once this simulation runs as it's cutting if you have this checked it will leave lines on here of the actual tool path that it's cutting i don't like to do that because i can't actually see the material being cut but you can do it if you want there's several different options for that this is your stock this is what this is going to look like i have it set up as a standard mode operation and set up as plastic vinyl so when it cuts it's going to look kind of shiny this is another thing that's very important on here it's called stop on collision if you check this if there's an error in here a collision it's gonna stop the the simulation so you'll know right away that there's a problem we go to the next tab it's called info this tab here will display everything about what's going on the first one here is the position this is the position of the cutter during cut like actually when it's cutting that's going to tell you exactly where it's at on your machine when it's cutting how fast it's going whether it's doing a rapid feed a normal feed what type of movements and so on and so forth the operation it's going to tell you exactly what type of cut you're doing you're doing an adaptive cut down here for the machine remember earlier we never set up a machine so this is going to be blank because we didn't set up a machine because we are only using one down here is your verification this is going to tell you if you had a collision or not this says none it says we didn't have any collision so that's great the last tab on here is your statistics tab and it basically tells you how long it's going to take and how long how much cutting distance there was and so on and so forth go back to our display tab if you want i'm just going to move this out of the way because right down here in the center is going to be the uh run for the simulator basically you can just click the play button and it'll start cutting and it'll leave all these little marks in here just like it was cutting then you can speed this up and you can slow it down and this is or whatever this is basically going to show you how this is going to cut your piece of wood this is exactly what you want to watch you want to make sure that this is going to come out exactly how you want it to come out you can move all around your part do whatever you want as it's cutting it doesn't matter it'll continue to to run you can even go even faster you can zip it all right down to the very end here we're going to go all the way to the very end and see what it looks like there that's what the finished model should look like right there when we get done cutting with this first bit don't mind these big towers right here that's just because of the size of the stock that we picked you're going to be picking a much bigger piece so this is all going to be solid all the way around so that looks good we'll close our simulator that's our piece there that's our first bit our first bit is done now we want to do our finishing so that's where a different bit will come in so now to add another tool path on here and to continue basically right where we left off you just go up here and click on another tool path this time we want to go up here click on our 3d tool path go down the list here to this one that says morphed spiral and basically what that's going to do is throw a spiral contour that is going to blanket over your entire project and it's going to hug every contour nook and cranny and it's pretty damn good and very powerful so we'll left click that just like as in the first tool we're going to do the same thing we're going to run through this entire list the same thing except we're going to set it up for a different shape tool so on this one here we're going to select our tool this time i want to use a small one a one millimeter tapered ball end mill it has a half inch radius on the corner you don't have to have one of these you can use any bit you want but this is the bit that i'm going to use so i'll select okay now just as before it's going to put it right in the corner right where i told the home was we don't have to change anything go up here make sure your coolant says disabled just like the first bit now this bit here is a lot smaller than that quarter inch bit so you can't go as fast as we had on that other bit the quarter inch bit we were traveling at around 1500 millimeters a minute with this bit here you can do around 500 to 800 millimeters a minute so we're gonna pick 600 millimeters a minute and that's all you need to do on here the rest of this stuff these default settings are just fine go up here to your geometry tab just like before we're going to select our silhouette we're going to make sure our tools in the center and this time with an offset we're only going to give it a couple because we don't need to go all the way out to the wall like we did before we just need to go down around the sides and maybe just a little bit past so we can get everything on the edges the contact points and the boundary it doesn't apply to this and the contact only would be to go as if like this had a big hole in the middle say this was a giant donut instead of it going across and then trying to cut out the donut hole it'll skip over it and not cut that area at all so we don't really need it it doesn't apply here because it's nothing on here slope i like to have the slope on there because what the slope does is i'll show you the picture it basically cuts on the angles and the degrees tells you about what it's going to do so if you have it 45 to 90 it basically does the top if you have it zero to 45 degrees it will do basically do the bottom of the slope and if you have it from zero to 90 degrees it will make an attempt to do the entire slope so i leave it set from slope angle 0 to 90 and i have that checked now just like as in before this is a second tool change so we have to make sure that we have the rest machining turned on now before we had it set as in setup from stock now we want to do from previous operation from previous operation that means there was a cut before this one so it's going to try to follow right after the first one and since you ran that first one already you know that this is going to follow because it's in the same one they're right here so we want from previous operations and now this time instead of ignore cuss we want to machine cuss because we want it to get down and machine every little nitty gritty hole and every little crack and nook and cranny that's on this come down here to the next one and select our model make sure we click on our model and it says mesh once that all set we're not going to do the avoid touch services because there's nothing to click on here we're gonna go to our next tab our heights tab again just like before this has to do with the heights of your mo your model your travel heights your clearance heights and stuff we're just going to leave these set up just like they were before they're absolutely fine the default settings click your passes tab now this is where we can set the detail basically you're going to put into your part here and your project the first part is your tolerance like before it's basically the line whether it varies to or you know back and forth off your line is your tolerance just leave it set at that and everything will be just fine here's a couple different options you can do here when you're cutting you can either have it set so it will start basically it's going to start in a spiral and it's just going to work its way around somewhere you could either have it spiral out from the middle to the outside you could have it spiral from the outside to the inside there's a couple different options in here or you can do like a shortest machine distance i like to do the shortest because then it will do the least amount of cuts to get the same process less travel time next thing you want to do is you could either make it go clockwise or counterclockwise i like to do clockwise it's easier on the tool your step over this is very important the step over has to do with how far your tool will move over for the next cut this will determine several things one the smaller you make this number or the smaller your step the better your picture is gonna look because if you leave this at default right now once this is all done this is gonna have a bunch of spiral lines on here that you're gonna see now you'll still see all the detail but it'll have all these lines in it from the tool it's called tool marks so basically a good rule of thumb is about 10 to 15 percent of your tool so 10 to 15 of my tool is going to be down around 18 or so so we'll crank this down i'll even go one more we'll say we'll say 16. okay now that's only going to move one six eight one six six millimeters over on my my tool path every time so it's gonna take a lot longer than what it was set up before because it's gonna make several passes for that one pass before and this is going to make it look really smooth so we'll do that the direction both ways is fine because it's up down wherever it goes i don't set the axial offset passes because it has has to do with some other style of cutting like cutting like gear teeth and other types of things it just the way it cuts it's just a different type and it's going to add a tremendous amount of time onto something like this it just doesn't apply to relief style cutting up and down milling both is fine that's just it's just a path that it goes it'll be just fine stock to leave we're not going to need that like we did on our first bit because on our first bit we needed to leave some for our next bit now if you're going to run another bit after this then you want to check this and add a little bit left over if you remember on the first bit the quarter inch pass the roughing we left a half a millimeter so if we run say a quarter inch bit that first time we did and then say we run a 1 8 inch flat end mill and run that on another pass doing the same morph here what it's going to do is it's going to run all down and it's going to get everywhere a 1 8 inch flat end mill can fit now a quarter inch flat end mill is not going to be able to fit in a lot of spots so that's going to remove a little more material too you can do that as well and then make sure you leave a little bit here so that when you add another tool path that you'll have something to cut away it's the same thing and you can just keep stacking tools on here as many as you want as long as you keep leaving some material left over for each tool to cut so based on that knowledge we'll move on phillips we're not going to mess with the fillets because basically there's no fillets on here because this is a relief fillets are where you have like a square object and then the edges are kind of rounded over or whatever you know it's kind of like that that edge there and you can machine that areas that a little different by checking that fillet box there we don't need it so we're going to move on smoothing just like before we want that because we want to try to make this as smooth as possible and look the best same with the feed optimization we want to check that because we want our bit flowing around here as smooth as possible we don't want it just going balls to the wall ripping around here as fast as it can go without no mercy we want it to be able to come to a spot and if it needs to slow down we want it to slow down so you check this and i would leave all these default settings because they're pretty good go to your linking tab really don't have to worry about anything on here all the default settings on here are absolutely fine and that is pretty much it for our morph spiral on our finishing bit so we're going to click ok and then we're going to sit here and wait this is probably going to take about five minutes or better for it to figure this out so let's watch okay and now it's done so based on that you see that it had done everything that you can see looks pretty decent so we'll uh let's as before we'll go up here to the simulate tab we'll click on simulate might take a second to roll up on here because that's a lot of detail on there so as we're waiting for this you notice that it did the outline too a little bit we probably could have made that a little bit smaller that would have saved a few minutes but not too bad so as in before you know you have your display this displays your tool your tool path your stock make sure you got your stock stop on collision go to your info tab you scroll down you notice it's calculating down here on the number of collisions that are in there it hasn't found any yet but it's only 12 13 done so you can see some other information on here and your statistics and everything else so if you want you can come over here and you can hit the run but see if you notice if you look you'll see this is exactly where it left off before just like how it's going to look on your table after you get done running the first tool so we'll hit the simulate button and you'll notice it comes down in here and let's scroll down in here a little bit and you'll see that it's actually removing just a little bit and it's going around in a loop and it's getting bigger and bigger and bigger excellent so let's scroll out a little bit if we scroll out a little farther it'll go faster and we'll speed it up here a little bit we'll speed it up all the way and you can see it it's just hammering away here but if you've noticed let me uh turn it here so you can see it it's starting to put the detail in there and that's what you want that's the prize at the bottom of the picture let's go back to our info tab here and see where our process is going on see it slowed it way down when you're simulating because it's really chugging trying to get this to to simulate all out here on my laptop so basically we saw that part so we can pause this out here we don't need it to run anymore out here this is what we're more concerned about here let's let this collisions run and see if we've got any collisions and if so we're gonna have to fix them okay now you notice that we didn't have any collisions so that's a good thing and i also fast forwarded the simulator here so you can kind of see what it looks like when it's all done here looks pretty good i like it it's exactly what that baby's gonna look like so let's go ahead and close the simulator because we didn't have any problems back to our home position now we've got our two files here we're going to take these and we're going to save these to our hard drive first off we want to select the first file right here that's our additive file if you notice it says 32 minutes it's going to be a little longer than that as of right now it's probably going to be at least twice that if not more because fusion has taken all the rapid feed rates out of your tool pass until you buy from them well i'm not buying fusion 360 i mean i would buy it if it was just a flat rate but since it's a monthly subscription i can't justify that kind of money so i'll just use what i can out of it and move on so what you can do is you can add your rapid feed rates in later and i'll show you how to do that after this so we go on here we select our first one we go up here to see where our simulate one was right next to it it says post process and if you installed the post processor properly then when you click on this you'll have your post processor on here it'll say snap maker on here and then so you start from the top up here your configuration folder that's where the post should be at that's where your your post should be you pick your post name from here if it's not already in there the next one down is going to be where this file is going to be put at so where it's going to be saved on your full on your hard drive right here is the extension it's going to have it's going to have a dot cnc if you come down here here's the name so on here i'm going to write small bears and then i'm gonna put an underscore and then i'm gonna say six millimeter flat and mill and then i'm gonna hit post you can fill in something else if you want here this is just basically for comments and you know everything else is pretty self-explanatory so we're just going to hit post it's going to want to ask you where you want to save it at so i'm going to hit save and that's that one let's go to the next one the next one is this one right here that's gonna be your finishing tool path so we're gonna because you can't do automatic tool path you know changes in your snapmaker machine because it doesn't have it so you have to manually do it so you're the manual changer you're the automatic changer that's you so in order to do that you have to have a separate drawing or separate tool path for each tool that you use and you just do them one at a time so right here's the second one we're going to take this tool path it's highlighted go up here to our actions we're going to hit post process just like before we're going to come down here and i want to select this as bears whoops i'm sorry i want to say small bears and then i want to do an underscore and then i want to say final so this is i'm doing this so that when i look at the file itself i'll know what to do with it i know this is the final and i will also know that this is going to be a one millimeter tapered ball mill and i don't need anything else so i'm going to hit post it's going to come here and want to ask me where i want to post it again but it already picked it so i'm just going to hit save and that's that we are done with that so you can close well i'm sorry you want to save all this if you want to have this for later but the files you just made that you've saved if they're done correctly and everything works out right you just save those those are the ones you'll reprint over and over and over again or you can come back in here and go back to your design come in here and change the size once you change the size you go back to your manufacturers tab when this comes back up you'll get back here and there'll be a bunch of errors right here because you change the size so basically all you're going to do is just right click on each one of these and you're going to select generate and what that's going to do is going to regenerate that based off all the changes you made prior just go right down the list generate the first one right click on the second one here go up here and click generate then you come down you right click on the last one and you click generate right here if there's a problem in here and it's messed up and you don't like the way it is all you got to do is go back over in here right click on here and select go to the very top and select edit when you select edit it's going to bring that tab back up again to where you first set this all up and you just go through and make your changes to whatever you need to do and then once you're all done then you select okay and it'll run back through it if there's any changes it'll make the changes and you'll have new pattern in here and everything and then you'll have to regenerate your last one because that'll be different just keep going down the list wherever you make a change at you have to regenerate everything after that change or else you're it will still be set up as the old way so since i got all this done here i'm just gonna hit my save this is where you can save different options it'll ask you a little thing here like uh what what's the deal and i'm just gonna say final version because this is my final version and it should cut all right as far as i'm concerned i'm going to select okay and it's going to save all that happy stuff okay there now what we can do is we go in here and we can fire up our lu band and i'll take the lu band and i will turn on my snap snapmaker machine now my snapmaker machine's on and booting up while it's doing that i can load the files in here so let's go to our i'm sorry let's go to our workspace over here where it says open gcode you can open this code up here go in here where your um file is at we had a small bears six millimeter flat end mill i should have put roughing in there but i didn't i forgot so we'll take that one and we'll say open and there it is and you notice your starts down here in the corner it doesn't matter where this is at on the screen just as long as it starts right here in the corner okay we just loaded that up in here our snapmaker is all booted up now so let's connect to it we'll go up here and click our refresh button and notice the snapmaker didn't talk i'm connected here where's my snapmaker there it is we'll connect to it it's going to want my screen authorization i'll reach over here and i'll click the yes it's going to want a home because i just turned it on so we'll home it i personally when i get long um relief cuts especially when they're gonna take hours at a time i'm going to move those files over to the snapmaker and run them on the snapmaker if it's going to be something short 20 minutes half hour if i'm going to be sitting here in front of the computer the whole time or whatever you know then i'll run it through the luban window otherwise i do it the other way just in case something happens with the computer it decides it's going to update or download something or a pop-up's gonna come up or something you don't want nothing interrupting this because then you might lose control of your machine through your computer so whenever i get long runs i run them straight off the machine that way there's no problems the machine runs you still got control over there you don't have to worry about your computer mysterially booting in the middle of a cut somewhere so based on that we've got this here we all you got to do is reach over here and select this send to device that's if you're connected to the wi-fi if you're connected through your usb you can do it that way you can also transform copy them over under usb stick and stick it into the machine and you can copy them over that way now the snapmaker's asking me if i want to start it now and i don't want to start it now so i hit no and then i'm done with this here i can close this out let's go bring our other file in here we're going to open we want the small bears final we're going to open here it comes there it is and you notice it's in the same spot you know she starts in the same spot everything's in the same we are also going to send this one over to the snapmaker and once it gets there i click no because i don't want to run it yet for demonstration purposes i'm just going to do it through the laban here and show you what it looks like through there i won't run the whole job and show you i'll just show you bits and parts and fast forward through the rest so what we're going to need to do is let's get out of this one because we want our roughing first so we get out of there let's go up here let's load our roughing here's our roughing we want to hit load into our workspace there's our roughing one now that we're loaded up we need to set the home position so in order to do that you're going to go and move these around and move your head around and get it set up once you get it all set up and ready to go you come up here and you click play or run and watch the excitement because it'll start ripping that wood right up but keep an eye on it sit here especially if this is your first time ever doing this or anything and especially anytime you do anything new because you don't know what to expect i always watch my very first job of whatever i make i always watch the entire process to make sure there's no surprises somewhere in the middle of the job that i don't know about or that i missed somewhere you never know unless you sit there and watch it if you watch the whole thing then you know that it went all successfully and everything went well and there's no issues you could leave it alone the next time and not worry about it just set it up and let it rip so we'll get her all set up here and then i'll show you what it looks like okay now what we're gonna do is we're gonna set this up so we can cut this with a quarter inch bit quarter inch bit flat end mill quarter inch er11 collet and then the nut you want to take this and put this in here cone coinciding this way push it in there so that you hear a snap just like that stick it up in here put your quarter inch end mill in there go all the way up and then come down just a little bit tighten this up you don't have to make it super super tight but make sure it's tight okay now that you've got that done then you want to move this down into a spot where you can do your your zero at for the z axis so what i'm going to do is i'm going to make a little mark right here that little x marks the spot right there that's where i'm going to do mine at and i'm going to use a 2 000 feeler gauge so i'm going to move this down and move it into position here well actually first what we should do is we should set the the perimeter so as we're setting the home here we can easily go in here and adjust the home so we'll go right there and i'm just going to do a test or not the home but the work origin i mean so we're going to do a test here and i'm going to set the work origin right there we're going to move this so we can make our home position and our zero point on our material okay so what we got here is i put the head right here and in lu band i ran the um boundary on there where it says uh run boundary and it ran all the way around so i know it's going to fit on the piece of wood right here so i set my zero points right here even though it's up in the air because it doesn't matter yet as long as all your zeros are right here that way when you go to set the point where the top of your wood is you still have your zero point set over here because all we got to do is just change the z over here so this is what we'll do we will move this over to our spot that was ten now we're down to one and that's almost there let's move this up here so we're over our square okay right there's over our square make sure you don't push on your plate because you can move your table up and down in the east and the west i'm sorry in the y direction you definitely don't want to be leaning on here when you're doing any of this so make sure that you're not leaning on here you're not pushing but you think put your feeler gauge on there or whatever you're going to use to set the height and we're going to lower this down so it's just snug when we get close we'll break it down to 0.1 and i want to be able to feel that on there right there okay once i get to that point i'm going to click here and luban you can click the little z box and you click down at the second option which is to set the zero for the z only or if you're on the actual snap maker itself on the console it has a button on the control panel there for the movement where you can just set the z origin so that's what you want to do just the z origin okay now i have that set to zero move my feeler gauge go back to where my controls are at i'm gonna move my head my z-axis here i'm going to move that up 10 and then i can move this back over here move this back up over in this area somewhere about where the home position was at and then all i got to do is say go to work origin i'm in my work origin now what i want to do is lower my head or my z-axis 10 right there now that is the actual top of your material and you are in your home spot so now that you're at that again go back over set your z origin only back to zero again or you can just hit the set work origin right here it really doesn't matter either one works just as good because you're in your final position now you're ready to go run your job okay now that we've got that done now we need to change bits so let's take the quarter inch bit up make sure you hold on to it so it doesn't fall out loosen this all the way up let's take our quarter inch collet out we're gonna put an eighth inch collet in make sure there's no sawdust and stuff in here put it back in there listen for the snap you don't hear the snap it's not in right put this on here here is my one millimeter tapered ball end mill put that in there here's a good thing to do you know how deep your drawing is you can stick this in here and you can see how far you need to go with your tip you can see i'm almost to the edge of the painted part or the coated um tip there so as long as i've got at least that much sticking out i should be good that i know will put the top of it up near the top of here so as long as you've got most of that in there you'll be okay we're going to tighten this up [Music] and just as before we have that little mark here got our feeler gauge let's put our tip point right on that little spot fun just like before we'll put our peeler gauge in here bring this down get it close don't want to jam it into your your material here so put it on the smaller so you can feel it and i don't mean you just want to just barely feel it you want to feel that sucker grab onto that not to where you can't move it but just you know where it's got a lot of tension to it pull that out just like before you want to go and you want to hit your set z origin only if you're on the snap maker machine it's on the control panel where the home and the set work and the set work origin stuff is at there's a button on there it says set z push that if you're on in lu ban there's a box to the right of your uh access um coordinates one says z on it if you click on that the second set of words the second sentence in there says set z to zero that's what you would click and that would set your z to zero because we still have the x and the y set to zero where our start position is at as long as you didn't change any of that stuff or hit that set work origin by accident we're still good to go so what we'll do is we'll go in here and we will raise that tip up the head here going to raise it up 10. then we're going to move it over close to where our our start is once you get it close to there then you can push the button that says go to work origin there you are there's your start now all you gotta do is click run all you gotta do is clean it up pull it out of here dust it off and there you go that's how you do relief work and with tool changes through fusion 360 on the snap maker it's pretty awesome it's pretty deep it's very detailed very good good luck and i want to see some great projects out there

Channel: Rodney Shank

Views: 9,711

Keywords: 3D Relief, relief, 3d, Snapmaker, 2.0, A350, Fusion 360, tool changes, milling, stl

Id: TfqBKqzxl44

Length: 92min 31sec (5551 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 25 2021