Sleeper...Hiding a Monster NOS Race Engine in a Carbon Fiber Bush Plane | Scrappy #46

i'm just washing this down with some alcohol and i'll wipe it down but you can kind of get an idea what that's starting to look like it's going to be cool when we get it in almost there it's physics math and engineering machine it draft it build it test it break it every time something new gets built the entire world advances laying in bed at night it's designing new parts designing new suspension designing new wings all right guys top cowling's done other than the oil door so what i'm going to do now i have pre-drilled the hole that's exactly dead center with the oil fill a lot of times you do a door you can tip it forward so the wind always keeps it shut the downside is when you're feeling with oil i'm not so worried about me but i don't know if someone went to be nice and help me put oil in they tend to want to put their hand up there to brace themselves and people break their doors off i want to get the door away from any help that may be helping me or myself just screwing up so i want the door to open this way but if i forgot to latch it heaven forbid i want the door to close itself run quit dropping stuff i want the door to close itself so what i'm going to do is i'm going to set up the hinge line just a couple degrees tip to the wind for whatever reason the latch didn't work i forgot it the wind will keep the door shut but coming at the side of the plane the hinge opens away from you you can prop your hand on it set the oil on the side pour it in and not put pressure on that door i'm going to use this hole to make a half circle by tipping the drill make a half circle and then i'll go across to do a straight away because i want a full length hinge i don't like full circle doors with little td hinges they like to break off so i'll put a full length hinge on this side and the door will open like that that's the plan let's get to work now the hinges pinch between both sides of the carbon i didn't mention it before i don't think but of course the hinge line i put duct tape on both sides and cut it right down the pivot points right off the edges and then layer the duct tape up you want to make sure that whatever tape you use you make it as thick as the carbon that i slid in and touch that tape when i pull the pill ply off and run a palm sander and kind of go over this one more time and prep for paint that tape is gonna show up and then i'll just grab the edge of the tape and peel it out of there and then just barely crack the edge with sandpaper to the hinge which is only now three layers total thirty thousandths of an inch thick so it's just a hairline you can barely see the line of the arc of the door hiding under there doesn't matter if i could or couldn't see it because when i flip this over you can see the door right there and you can i can re-cut it now from this side back out the other you can also see the hinge right there i'm going to take some alcohol clean this up right now but you can see the hinge right there and that also has tape on it so there's the hinge line once this all dries i'll sand this get it perfectly clean and lay up the carpet on this side that is the shelf the door closes again so hope that makes sense it's gonna be a really clean install should be let's get back to work all right well that could not have gotten any better you can see a couple of layers of the carbon peeking through but that hinge is now embedded between all the carbon layers both top and bottom so there you can kind of see the hinge line is now flush then i'm now ready to sand the bottom all right so now you can see i've got the layer on this side the hinge is now gone here covered up the hinge and the rivet lines are buried inside wouldn't even need the rivets at this point but uh they were good to get it in there but i've got a mechanical and a chemical bond and i'm pinched between carbon fiber so that hinge isn't coming out that is the door you can see the clear tape there so now what i've got to do is cut the two ticks on this side i left two little quarter inch ticks that held the door in place i'll dremel those then i can push here put a little bit of a spreader inside here and pop that door free once i pop the door free i'll put it back on this side open this up tape line the three quarter inch uh reveal overlap trim it and then we'll put a latch in it so we're getting close i'm super happy there'll be no bodywork at all needed on this it'll go straight to paint so all right i gotta pick a little more tape out of here a little more sanding and cleanup but to give you an idea how strong that door is that hinge is good for 100 pounds an inch i've got six inches there to hold 600 pounds so that is going nowhere all right guys i'm going to quickly make an air box for scrappy i'm going to use a piece of pvc pipe because i just went and found one that was that was the correct size for a filter i already made this carbon fiber part this is to separate the air filter so that the air coming in the high pressure end of the top of the pressure plenum feeds cold air into the intake and into the engine but has a separation from the hot air on the lower deck negative pressure i need positive pressure cold air intake for scrapping so piece of pvc pipe a little bit of time i split it down the middle right there the purpose of that is so i can open it up put a piece of eighth inch stick down here i'll just use a stir stick and i'll open that up clear tape across it wax this part put a carbon fiber bottom on it then carbon it all together then to get the pvc out i simply take the stick pop it into the middle of this this part will collapse and get small and slide right out of the carbon fiber so that's how i'm gonna get it out is just making the part that big pulling the stick out it shrinks it should slide right out that's the plan the start of the cold air intake let's get to work all right so what i did was my message screwdrivers is i pried on the ring pushed it in and overlapped it so that it broke all the way free and you can just drag it out of the bottom some of the electrical tape but lightweight set of drums let's get to work that worked out really good i just left a little tolerance where the rubber came through so that when i installed this carbon fiber part we made it slides in and expands that rubber and it works so good there's no hose clamp and nothing slides around this can't slide down so once i put the hose clamp on here we're air tight between here it's compression air tightened that way by inserting this pipe there's our filter we'll get a new one in there it's a start let's make some more parts back to work okay guys i'm now working on the upper deck pressure plenum so i made some aluminum headlockers on the side of my lycoming engine to lock the cylinders together help with cooling i also made a 45 degree angle ridge down the side to put 10 32 screws down it when i did it i went ahead and machined 1032 by the screws so you wouldn't accidentally put in the wrong size but anyway right here i've bent the l35 aluminum i left the film on it that protects the aluminum from scratching during manufacturing and shipping but that film is a perfect release for carbon fiber to come off of so what i've been here is these series of angles is the carbon fiber part i'm going to make that attaches to the angles i put on my machined headlockers i made so i'm going to quickly lay this up i do want to make this a bit thicker than normal so i'm going to go ahead and go six layers on this because it's going to have screws that go down through here that lock it to the headlocker i got those screws pretty tight together i want this absolutely airtight any air that goes in the front two inlets on scrappy i want every bit of it to only go between the cylinders and not escape anywhere else of the aircraft as that would cause air that jumps from the upper deck pressure plenum as the air comes in if it leaked like rubber baffles that are on some engines if it opened up and you got upper deck pressure to the lower deck you're causing the air to bypass the cylinders which gives you hot cylinders so rather than rubber baffles sitting against my cowling i'm making an entire airtight carbon fiber box that rubber boots to the front of my two intake absolutely no air will escape it except through the cylinder so this is one of the parts we got a lot to do you know the drill back to work all right guys i'm working on the pressurized plenum i've got the top shape here i splash this off the top of my cowling and then i've lowered it down just over an inch so as the engine rocks and moves the upper deck pressure plenum doesn't hit the top of the cowling now it's run long coming wider than the engine so i've got to trim this line back put on the sides that i just made for the headlocker that go up and bolt down that will allow from the side of the cylinder headlocker for there to be a straight edge that goes up and then transitions to the exact shape of the upper cowling and the reason i did that i want all the air between the top of the cylinders and the pressure plenum as possible so that's why this has all the contour that matches the cowling if i just did a typical arch pressure plenum um i wouldn't have this shape in it and i'd have to keep the whole thing down the depth of these humps so by making the exact contour i could push it all the way up and get the most air all the way to the back two cylinders so that's the most critical part of putting an eight cylinder in a cup it's getting there to the back i think we got a good way to get there so let's get back to work all right let me show you a simple little trick probably all of you use it already but transcribing holes to a carbon fiber part really simple i just put down some masking tape used a pen push through in the holes that had already machined in my head locker but i used to use one piece of tape and you'd go to put it on and sometimes that tape can stretch so real simply i put down a piece of tape used a pen found all my holes poked them through and then put five more layers of tape each layer poking a new hole by the time i'm done i can pull off the tape and i can pull do whatever i want and i'm not going to stretch or change the location so there was one time i didn't pull it put it down by the time i got to the end it had stretched the tape an eighth of an inch so little simple things now you can see where i got the screws let's go drill it back to work all right guys that's what i've done now i've got this bolted down you can see when i made this part i put a return radius on the very edge that keeps no air allowing it to bubble between when this pressurizes between the screws because i've put a return now you can see on the top i've got this double bend right here that's actually to make this really rigid because if i cut this double bend off um this upper edge being thin carbon could move while i'm trying to attach this part of the pressure plenum to it so now that i've got this mounted very solid and very strong i'm going to go ahead and tape this part of the pressure plenum to the underside push these up till they all touch connect it i'll tape the back side then i'm actually going to bond the top even though that's going to get all cut away up on the top side pull the whole thing off flip it over carbon up the inside once the inside's carbon i'll take my multi-tool in our shop we call it the cheeker cheeker and there's no real reason for it other than it goes rip the whole top of this off feather the edge round and then re-lay up carbon so it's carbon on both sides so that's the process let's get back to work all right guys let me show you what i'm doing here i've got to make the air ramps up into the upper deck pressure plenum so i just duct taped the shape i want into the flame and connected it with tape up to the upper deck pressure and then i laid up carbon fiber and i know this looks like a rat's best of a mess and it is but what's cool this was in here i popped it out i'm gonna come on this side covered in micro see all these big dents and indents from all the tape if i cover this side which was the back side with micro and then i sand it perfectly smooth it will become a mold then i go ahead and wax this pull apart off it it won't have any dents there'll be no micro no filler a perfect part that i can then reinsert and attach to the cowling i'll eventually split that to separate the two plenum and the cowling but to get a job done just gotta make a mess first all right guys i'm showing you the grossest dirtiest messiest part of the intake i wanted everyone to see kind of how the process went after it bonded in i covered the whole thing in micro filler now it looks like a mess but it's actually really close to being perfect i just need to go through and now sand out almost all of that white you see it should have only two to three percent left micro even visible on there just to get those little imperfections out of it but what works really good is doing something like this i could put it in a computer i could model and try and get all these complex curves to work together specifically the one that goes into the air box right there it's going into a cold air intake and i've got the air actually curling around and forcing the air into the top of the cold air and take and then another ramp on the front that whatever air doesn't the engine doesn't need jumps the filter and goes to the back for better ram and for me i'd rather be able to look at it tweak it move it a few degrees here and there and kind of customize the shape it's a ton of work way more work once i've got it to this point i can sand it out put the last couple layers of carbon fiber on it right now it's only two layers thick super thin and then if i ever wanted to duplicate or go into mass production i could 3d scan this and then make a mold off of the hand shaping i'm really happy with how it's going i got a lot more work to do if i did 3d scan this and make a mold i literally could do this section of the cowling in probably two to three percent of the time i've got to get to this point i have hundreds and hundreds of hours to get to here and a lot of it is just shaping and reshaping and then pulling parts and then connecting those parts blah blah blah it's been a long day the sun is still out i got a lot more hours than me so you guys know the drill let's get back to work hey guys that's my wife with the camera tonight lost on a little while ago i think it's coming up on 11 so uh i'm not sure how much longer we're gonna stay but let me show you where we're at i'm still standing and i could have said that five times every hour over the last five hours i'm gonna stand i gotta sand standing again and i'm going to sand and i'm going to sand i'm going to sand it looks like there's still a lot of micro on here but there's not it's actually i don't know if you can hear that it's actually getting close to paper thin but i keep working around in a circle and making sure that i'm blending as i go not focusing on one spot i'm really happy with the shape i'm going to keep going a few more hours left to go on sanding almost all the white will disappear completely and then it's going to be ready for a final carbon fiber layer i'll do two more layers on top of that so ah we got at least a little more in us i'm getting back to work right guys i've got the intakes done they're fully connected right now and i'm going to wipe it down so i can get some tape to stick and i'm going to make the split line for where the cowling separates from the sealed airtight pressure plenum so i'll get this wipe down i'm really happy with how it turned out the air's flowing really nice and if you notice just on this edge right here i've got carbon carrying all the way in i don't have what you normally see would be a step right here that the air has to trip around that creates a little burble slows down the air going into the engine which causes it to run hotter so i've made a carbon fiber return it carries all the way in smooth rather than a lip then i'll split it i'll put a rubber boot that ties the two together when i put the cali back on and you'll just see a little hair line around it and then the engine can shake separately from the cowling that doesn't move as the engine rocks and twists and and vibrates there'll be a rubber isolator that allows that to happen but the air should flow better than about any cowling i've done so hopefully we'll get those back cylinders nice and cold my goal is to have the back cylinders on an a cylinder cooler than any four cylinder cub i've flown in they all tend to sit pretty warm especially if you're flat out hot summer day down low 110 120 degrees out of las vegas area they'll get pretty warm sit around 400 410 i want these to sit in the 370 380 top trains on the hottest day so that's my goal wish me luck that work got this little curve i got it hi i got to trim this off sand it back that little radius is for that the holes in it for the nut plates and the curl on this edge is because i needed a witch's hat hold on all right this is the pressurized plenum it's extremely light this hole is for this carbon fiber funnel we made and what this will do is this will permanently be rtb to the fill neck of the oil for scrappy's engine and then there'll be nut plates on this so that this can come on and off and this will stay and i won't have to break the seal um that prevents oil when i feel the plane from getting onto the engine so it'll be completely tight but basically what will happen is you can just open the oil door on the cowling and you'll see a giant funnel pull the dipstick out and pour it right in and you never have to get a funnel and you don't have to worry about spilling an oil having a way to get to the engine so i'm super excited about that i've done that on race planes before i'm going to wipe it down spray it with clear ignore the drill let's get back to work all right guys i'm super pumped other than i spent four hours non-stop sanding to get this to this point it's just a lot more surface area than you think but i'm really happy with the step here that goes to the pressure top plenum the two intakes my cold air induction filter box that holds the filter i've got in beds for bolt points it's ready to get a clear coat but this essentially goes right there at the front of the aircraft filter and these will have rubber boots that tie to the front of the cowling so i'm pumped it's lightweight it's complex but it's done this is the most important part install it and it's staying on so i'm about there let's get back to work all right guys finally this cowling has been kicking my arms butt what the hell are you doing i'm kicking my stem and i've been doing sanding for so many days but we're finally here 100 carbon this is actually all the bodywork is already done uh even the final sanding's done but you can kind of see i'll do this in a high gloss black to match the stripe on the back of scrappy that says scrappy in it but this will go right there kind of get a feel for what that looks like this right here is the fresh air intake and i've got the plane lowered way down you can kind of tell the suspensions down flat so that i can kind of work on it easier but this goes right there what's really fun about this is i can change my oil just by pulling off my bottom pan so that goes there my lights are here um somewhere i've got a filter that drops in here and uh so the filter is out of sight out of mind it's no longer on the front double lights the other grille and then you can see inside here the ramp going up and inside there'll be a rubber boot on this seam right here between it but all the air ramps in and there's no return edge that trips the air and slows down the air to get from getting to the back of the engine the upper pressure plenum is done and pressure plenum goes all the way to the back of the cylinders a lot of people dive their plenums right to the back cylinder and just leave a little gap for the air to sneak through those back cylinders that doesn't work very well and then your back cylinders get hotter than the front so i made a carbon fiber box that's about three inches deep um behind the back cylinder that takes the air all the way down around the back and lets the air come in the other direction it just makes sure the air's flowing really fast to the back so my back stays nearly the same temperature as my front also little tricks you can see inside this one you can see my little slots this is behind right here is the parting line of the cylinder this air is going through the grilles here but right here that allows the air to sneak through and go through the fins underneath that cylinder so just little tricks to get all the cylinders to even up but oh my gosh i'm ready to put clear coat on the underside and paint on the outside so this was a way bigger job than i expected and i have built so many cowlings but i can honestly say this is one of my favorite cowling now i've got two more things i need to add to this cowling before i can get it in primer i've got to add more exit air now i've got the exit gills that look like shark gills i love from cub crafters i utilize to kind of keep the same look but it's not enough to float all eight cylinders so we already added a giant belly cow flap which is going to pull a massive amount of air now i still want more than that so i'm going to add two more exit air uh outlets that are matching the inlets to my oil coolers on the back of the aircraft so i'm going to reuse that mold flip it around shape it a little bit different attach it to the back of the cowling so there's going to be multiple air outlets and one of them is adjustable i want to make sure that whether i'm slow flight cold air flying with some of my buddies um in i can close everything up and keep the cylinders warm or if it's hot and i've got 500 horsepower and i'm on the deck on the hottest day that i keep this thing cold so i'm super excited about it i really like the high sides and the shape on the intake um and then i tried it with the prop and spinner on and uh these intakes actually look a little smaller when the prop blades are on but i love it i cross our fingers it does what the flow says it will do i think it will should keep my cylinders cold but let's get some paint on it and go out running see how it does you

Channel: Mike Patey

Views: 196,296

Rating: 4.9796128 out of 5

Keywords: Air racing, turbulence, Draco, wilga, mike patey, STOL aircraft, Bush Flying, Flying Cowboys, Mark Patey, Mike Patey, Pylon Racing, Patey Twins, Fastest Turbo Prop, Turbine Lancair, Turbine Legacy, Hillside Landing, Crosswind Landings, Water Landings, Water ski airplane, Best tugs, Grip lock ties, Back to work, Carbon Fiber Molds, Carbon fiber layout, how to carbon fiber, custom parts, world record aircraft, experimental, super cub, engineering, how it's made

Id: ueath_ufLBs

Length: 28min 28sec (1708 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 24 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/OompaOrangeFace]

Mike Patey is a God of experimental aircraft building. He should be done with this aircraft in the next 6 months I'd guess.

Here is the full playlist. It's insane: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9OFkVHYEhoFUPV78e3hh0TVPMhYI73f9

[u/[deleted]]

Mike Patey is the fucking man!