Single Hive Management Explained

hi guys I'd like to explain the management technique I use around Cinque Ohio brood management getting so many emails about this lately and I was going to make a video up through the summer just to better explain what I do like hands-on I thought maybe I'd make a video here so I can refer people to this video to answer their questions to maybe help them understand what I do I've adopted this practice quite a while ago to help address many of my hive management logistical issues throughout this video I'll address these issues as I see it and I as I understand this craft beekeeping so remember this is this is one man's opinion on beekeeping and how I keep things but maybe it'll help broaden your perspective and maybe you can take something from it to best explain this practice to you I'm going to demonstrate this technique to you as I walked through my apron and I'll show you step by step my seasonal work so I be keep around Miami Manitoba Canada so you consider this beekeeping in the north I manage 1200 to 1500 hives and from that we are primarily honey producers we will pull 300 or 350 drums - honey annually and to get that I typically hire up to six school kids to help me with the work throughout the summer just to help manage the workload some of the reasons just abbreviate some of the reasons why we we switched to a single brood box it's a lot of it is logistical and a lot of it is practicality we can yield more honey per hive managing our hives this way just by the hives maintaining a well first off we have maintained a large nest but then we restrict their nest throughout the summer when we're not eating the space and they're able to focus more attention towards the honey crop and we're able to take all that honey instead of leaving any of it for winter feed and that point on his own it's important for us because we gather a lot of canola honey and it makes tough winter feed okay with one brood box we have less equipment to handle less equipment to maintain so that's a huge plus especially when you consider that we we haul everything inside and keep our bees inside first for winter storage up here I know many producers are winter single boxes outdoors so this technique isn't just performed by indoor wintering beekeepers it's there's I know more and more than many beekeepers winter single boxes outside and and arguably winter just as well as I do inside but in a single brood box we're looking at better I feel we get better efficacy of our treatments you have your hives confined to the single box and not confined but they they're just a little bit tighter there's less spacer around them and I just feel that the the treatments are able to focus on target those those pests a lot more effectively like the varroa mite and you're looking into treatments like oxalic acid when you're shooting a fume into a few paper into the hive they need penetration of that cluster and by having that cluster right all together right at the point of treatment at the point of treatment I feel that the the vapor is able to penetrate the cluster a lot more effectively than if the cluster was up higher in the box or whatnot also I just find it so much easier to determine what I have in these boxes for hives like when I'm doing my assessments for strength assessments and all I do a lot of sessemann through the ears you're going to see it just helps me figure out what I have in my apron I just find it so much easier to you know tip back a hive and see exactly what I have there and then I can manage my hives a lot more effectively I can manage them into splits you know I can double them up to take this split full split off a more I can just skim off a few brood frames to to bring them back to the strength I need them or I can just simply just drop a frame or two a brood in to boost them so it allows me to be keep a little more intensively to achieve that precision that we're all we all seem to be wanting to to get at so to explain the single hive management to you I'm gonna take you through a year of my honey farm so first off we'll start the year in March I winter indoors everything stocked six high in my shed I can hold 1,500 hives in my shed their winter my bees inside a climate-controlled building and they stay inside from November till March I'll set my middle of March spring approaches the indoor temperatures start to increase that's when the bees started to get active they sent spring and they started bearding so we like to get the bees outside when they before they get overly active and we just want to get them outside when we could find that period of time that's conducive for perfect beef light so they could get out and start the year again so I move everything out with forklifts and be truck so here I have just moving some hives out early spring mrs. March middle March and I'm just getting a jump on the evening I like to move everything out at night the bees have been inside for five months and and they've been kept in the dark to help them keep them in the boxes so by moving them out at night or when you know when you open the door in the middle of day they see the light and everybody wants to start flying all of a sudden so I like moving the bees at night just to keep them in the box and then we set them down in the yards it just helps them settle down a little bit before the first flight their first light comes the next morning so the first light comes the next morning and those bees take flight this is kind of what it looks like just these absolutely everywhere they're open they're taking the first plunging plate and these bees haven't flown for five months or so that's a long time for a bee to be confined in a box so they have their so they're their guts are full and they're ready to relieve themselves so during this the first couple days after we set them outside we typically like to leave them alone because literally it is a shitshow bees are flying and they're everywhere so we set them down but we can't leave them too long because we have to go around to do a quick feed assessment do any emergency feeding there's some hives that are pretty big and being in a in a single box we can get about 90 and 95 hundred pounds of feed into them for for a winter and that typically is enough for most time to get through winter but you have you got to make sure you look after those big strong ones so I'm going to be using this graft a lot through this this video I credit Randy Oliver this graft what it does is it just perfectly explains what I do throughout the year the it shows the age of the bees throughout the year it shows a brood rate laying rate and just everything about this graph just perfectly describes what I'm trying to convey to you guys here so right about this arrow here is when I set my bees out so I'd say that the middle of March and you'll notice the size of that nest is fairly static right across all the months of winter and you're going to notice the age increase of these bees like the average age of these bees increase all the way until I set them out here in middle of March there and we're pushing 200 days those bees are getting pretty old there's not a lot of brood ring there's a little bit of brood rearing going on and this this graft conveys that I don't know how much would actually be bird rearing in there but looks like there's some going on inside that shed still but not a lot so most of these wintered bees or old ones hanging on so right at this point when we said about is when I focus on stimulating and when I focus on colony growth I put out some dry feet [Music] be open liquid feed and protein patties the early spring pol it hasn't quite come out at this time so we just want to energize that nest and just to get them going so during this time we go through an intensive a pre-assessment we tip back to hives and account frames from underneath just to know what we have in our April we mark the strength with frame scores eight to ten frames is a strong four to six frames as medium and less than three is weak so we'll identify every one of these hives for strength and we mark it on the front of the hive with tags at this time we call it all the dead in the week we shake out any of the weak ones we don't lean on weak hives so we shake them out in the grass and we bring out all the dead oats back to the honey house we monitor for disease we sample and we put together a disease the plan with from our assessments then we treat accordingly I'm not going to get into disease control in this video but we focus heavily on disease control and we put a lot of attention towards it back at the honey house after we've gone through the apiary we fed we've assessed we've monitored disease and retreated for disease and all this we have the dead equipment back at the honey house and this is where we clean up all the frames and the boxes of the dead old equipment we do a thorough disease check and we sort our frames into groupings I'll set the frames in two piles of empties piles of honey filled and piles of Poland so then we can use these groupings of hives we know what kind of equipment we have and we can sort into our air boxes accordingly all the equipment's been scraped and it's all been organized into separate groupings so wheels we're making up our second brood boxes now what we do is we set up our boxes with two frames the foundation of outside and then a frame of honey and then four empties inside okay and I'll show you the reason why I do this coming up but what we're doing is we're making we're making second brood boxes and we're gonna add these second brood boxes on to our strong hives later on and about three or four weeks after he set the hives out as end of April you know the first round of brood is hatched out and they're wanting to get into they're needing to expend into a second box so this round what we do is we focus on hive assessments and we work strictly on observing these hives and the condition they're in so we tip these hives back to confirm what their initial assessment was and this is very important the strong hives eight to ten frames they get a second brood box at it because that at this time the the broods hatched and they're one they expand into that second box okay the medium hives four to six they get left into singles because they they're comfortable in the single box they don't need extra space the weak hives are left in the singles and they're taken to a nursery yard to be further examined this secondary assessment is very important when you when you bee keep you want to track your hive progress throughout the year and the first assessment and the second assessment adds up to what that call needs actually performing for you so if that first assessment was a blue tag I've being strong and I go through four weeks after in the second assessment and they're still showing terrific growth and they're still counting the same in the number of frames if not more then I keep them as they as I keep them categorized as a strong hive and I double them to allow that growth but if that strong hive is assessed the second time as being you know not as good as first assessment that's a sign of a queen probably failing on you or there's maybe some other there's some other factor in there that's not right because that hive hasn't progressed forwards they should either be maintaining themselves or moving forward a little bit so if they can maintain themselves if not move forward a bit that's that has a good shape promote it if that hive is failing a little bit then those hives will reassess as a medium type hive with the flag we won't give them a second because they're not showing the need of expansion and we'll go back and we'll just take a look to see what's going on to that I've if not reclaim them so when you look at the the age chart here right in this circle this is the time of the year where these bees rejuvenate that that nest serves people better qualified to talk to you about the protein and fat dynamics in wintering honey bee nest the way I see it the hive set up their winter nest with winter bees we call winter bees and these bees these winter bees are are full of fat and protein reserves and they're hanging on to these this fat and protein all through winter and their only strategy is to make it through this tough period of winter and in our cases five months five months of confinement there just hanging on and they're hanging on as long as they can because if their strategy just to get us to spring to bail to rejuvenate that desk so when I set these bees out there's very little birdarang through the winter okay so when I set these bees out in March let's say March 15th when I said about that Queen to start laying because she sees a sign and there's then there's there's feet coming in and the temperatures adequate the bees are flying those winter bees will mine all their resources from their body and pass it onto it into that next generation as soon as they pass it on to that next generation as almost seems like that time clock starts so this is a very important time in a beekeeping schedule that when you when you have these bees focused on building that springtime nest you want to give them everything you can to promote the excellence of those bees to build to flip that population over into a springtime nest so I spend a lot of time fussing over this period of time it's a philosophy of keeping them tight and giving them space it's managing cool variable spring conditions I believe that a nest in a more confined space throughout spring will be able to manage cooler adverse weather conditions a lot more effectively than if they have unlimited space and I think a lot of beekeepers see that hive that's in the tighter space just seems to do better if it's called and it's and the weather forecast looks miserable and wet and these bees are growing they have four or five frames of brood inside and they're on the verge of hatching and they're a box full of bees and assumes that brood hatches ain't need two boxes full space you need to get space on those hives but you if it's cold and windy and crappie you don't want to put a box on top because I don't affect shock that colony and then you run the risk of stress-related diseases like Rockford you'll be seeing chocolate being kicked the friend live forever like here in Manitoba we will get snow cold snow in the middle of me it's just terrible and if you if you box these eyes up wrong through the spring mother nature will punish you so you so I'm very very conscious and how I add space to my hives early in spring if it's cold and miserable like that will actually put that second box underneath that nest just to ensure that calling it doesn't get shocked so then that call the colony is able to maintain its integrity and then it can expand downwards you need to give them that space because if you don't give them that space they will basically go into swarm mode and you don't want that not at this period of time if the weather is nice sunny and warm and bringing pull and all this kind of stuff that slop a box on top they're naturally inclined to move upwards into that second box and that colony won't know any different so you know my guys will find me pacing back and forth in the spring when is there you telling me you neither so you know five or six frames are brewed in these highest boss we gotta get spaced on to these hives there I mean they're gonna swarm on us we got to go we got to go but it's cold and miserable and adding just slopping a box on top it's so easy so much easier to put a box underneath so I'll wait and wait and wait until I am able to do that till I'm able to put a box on top so we can just blast through the whole apron just had seconds onto these big hives but if it comes down to it and the conditions don't favor top boxing then I'm saying okay guys looks like we're going underneath and they're like oh they you know it's a lot of work but you got to put the work into these hives you got to make sure that you're doing everything you can to maintain the integrity of these springtime clusters because this is the most important time of the colony's year right now you got to put your back work into this you've got to figure out what you got you got to give the feet they need you've got to control their disease you've got to manage your space according to the Xion okay very important so these singles grow into the seconds will give these big hives will give the second to grow into their splits we call them growing into your splits and as you've seen earlier we we made up two splits with foundations on the outside two foundations and then two honey's and then four empties in the center and what I'm trying to do is when that hive moves up into that second box like say we talk box to everything up that the queen is gonna move up and we're telling her to lay into those four frames in the center so she's gonna focus all their time on laying in the center four frames the reason what the honey is there for food of course but the reason why I have the foundation on the outside is just to buy me time when we start the split I decided we're gonna start made xx whatever typically at that time she's laid out those four frames you know pretty easy split we start taking splits maybe a little early at that time we get going into the split and she's laid out those four frames their rightful now there's just starting to work in the foundation on the outside well let's say weather runs into us we get delayed or we just have too much work to do or just get behind and all sudden there's a big honey flow coming from the dandelions or whatever's out there and so all now when I'm we're going through those four frames of foundation are drawn out if not right full of honey and we're we're taking splits as hard as we can we're just stripping boxes pretty much just to try to get this surplus strength off these hives before they swore about us so middle May up till June is our time that we like to focus on splits this is when we have to manage our population to prevent swarming and we take all the surplus strength and we will make full splits out of them or nukes we have to make sure we time the split so it can't be too early because we don't want to shock that highway want to move that frame that we don't want to move that Queen backwards we want to keep the progress of the Queen moving forwards throughout any manipulation we do in our hives we've got to make sure that our hives continue to move forward if we are too late or we don't provide enough space for them they swarm okay so we're trying to we're trying to control swarming by harvesting the bees and we're gonna make use of these bees to make up for their hives so right at this time if what as I consider my swarm period for May till end of June this is when you give them space we double up the big ones determine turn them into to brood box hives throughout this time and this is a time right at this point of time is when I focus in taking my split just managing the population to to harvest that excess population and make up for hives so this is how I sort out my splits this picture is a little bit complicated to read and I'm gonna help you I can help explain to you what I'm doing here so I've set my a pre up my strong hives are two boxes both boxes that brood and in both boxes the Queen has filled up a brood and so what I want to do is I want to take that tops take that top box off as my split okay so what I do is I this is my little Duke there's that's my chair that's my stool so I take that top box off the hive and set it down in the hive top just so I don't squish bees I set him on to the hive top rim I go back to the bottom of the hive and I count out my strength of that hive what I need what I do is I count brood frames you count your brood frames to build it determine how strong I call you is going to be okay so down in the bottom there I want four frames of brood okay that's my magic number I'm counting four frames of brood I'll put this laundry tub over top of that bottom box right I haven't looked for the Queen at all that laundry tub goes on top and that's my shaker box so I'm gonna shake these through that down to the bottom so that's what that thing is it's kind of like a funnel so let I go to the top box and what I'm doing is I'm splitting this hive without looking for the Queen and by doing that I'm just gonna shake all the bees down into the bottom box so I've already started out my bottom box strength by counting the brood frames I counted four if there's five transferred went up to the top whereas there's only three I take a brood trim from the top and transfer down so my bottom box my whole a pre after I've got my split was gonna be a common strength and I'm taking away surplus strength okay just focused on taking that surplus strength away so instead of looking for the Queen I shake that entire top box down through that funnel as I go you know I'm just quickly glancing for the Queen there and typically you know about 40 percent of time I find her and then I can just set her down nicely but for the most part I shake all my bees down and by doing this I don't have to look for that Queen okay so what I do then is I put an excluder after that top box has been shaken out I put the frames into that box to the side and I'll put that box back on top and then the bees will come back through the excluder to the top and I know that Queen is down at the bottom that's how I take my splits and by doing it this way without having to look for the Queen I can schedule my work a lot more efficiently I can go five minutes five minutes five minutes five minutes you know and I'll have four hives done in that time period of time and just plan my whole day out and it's so much easier to schedule you know so then when the bees migrate back up I oh how you know I come back in the evening after I give them time to go back up through the excluder so they kind of equalize themselves out I'll come back at the evening in their next day or just whenever suits my schedule and I do everything with my ez loader takes a lot of back work under this job so what I'll do is I simply just come and all those hives I've shaken down for the split I just stripped those top boxes off and put them straight onto my bottom board palates and then with my easy illiterate I zip him over to the beat truck onto the truck and we take them out to the route yards to manage with queen cells or or to introduce queens into so I'm stripping off these boxes the excluders still on there so what I do next and this is the point of time when I start managing my hives back into singles again okay this is very important step I take those excluders off and what I'll do is I'll put a honey box on top and I in frame honey box on top without an excluder so I'm allowing that Queen to go back up into that second if she pleases to continue managing that nest in two boxes okay so right there is our split but you'll notice my whole swarm season isn't over yet that brood laying is still escalating that Queen is still wrapping up her production she is still going I have another month of swarm control to do yet so I have to be conscious to be able to give that queen all the space that she feels she needs otherwise she's gonna turn it there her hive into a swarm again so I've managed the population to where I want it the population I managed is the population which will produce me a monster honey crop but I still can't restrict that Queen otherwise she's gonna swarm by me so I have another month there to to to act to swarm control by giving her the two boxes of space that's that gives her the adequate amount of space she's comfortable and and she won't send out she won't cast out any swarms so instead of just simply stripping the boxes off splits another method we use as we come through and we'll sort out some of that strength and make a heck of a lot of nukes so here's Kerry she's pulling out to brood frames from the split those up to top so she's sorting out to brood frames or making up a bunch of nukes and then after all this population is made into nukes we'll take the exclude her off we put the honey box on top allow that Queen to migrate and manage to boxes so with the surplus strength I'm not gonna get into what I do with the splits or how I make up nukes now that's a totally different topic but what I do is I you know I buy Queens to put into these splits or what we do is we make up a lot of Queen cells make up nukes we make our own Queens so there's a lot of different things you can do with the surplus strength that comes off these hives after the splits taken away the Queen again has rained on two boxes of space she can she can manage her time in those two boxes she's very comfortable this is a point of time an Avery is set out into the summer yards we're ready for the main flow the hives are at the strike that they're gonna they're gonna build into to the flow quite nicely clovers and alfalfa's are providing steady nourishment into these hives to keep that nest going it has a little bit of downtime the Queen's are happy the splits done nobody's swarming and you know everything's great at this time the canola is our main flow up here in the north we have a lot of canola acres and this is what drives our honey crop is the Kola crop we have alfalfa we have clovers around which do pretty good job is sustaining and growing our hives it's a compounding flow of canola which gives us gives us our honey crops so we're right at this point of time this is when the honey flow starts when that canola starts to bloom right around July the end of June into July as soon as those flowers start you'll notice the honeybee adult population explodes at this time we've provided all the conditions to promote that Queens continual growth we've controlled the swarming issue swarming is not an issue at this time it's kind of like we we just kind of slingshotted that colony into the flow you're gonna notice at this point of time that Queen has pretty much maxed out her potential in egg-laying so she plateaus okay so this is very important her potential has been reached so at this point in time when the nectar starts flowing in we work hard to try to give these guys more space but before we can give these guys more space we've got to drive that Queen back down into the single this is when we switch to hive back into the singles and the way we do it is simply put we shaker bees down into that bottom box so we take all the bees from that second box we shake all the bees down to the bottom and we put an excluder in we put that second back on top too hot shout and then we stack boxes on top for the honey flow so we're on the back side of the swarming season the Solstice has been passed that seems to be a magic point in time for honey bee colony when we inserted excluders and we push them back down to singles that brood laying is maxed out and is holding steady the nectar flow redirects their bees attention towards work out to the field and we add boxes of space overhead to be able to collect this mass of honey crop coming in about this time I hire on school kids and it's actually pretty good timing because shaking bees back down to the bottom box is a lot of work so higher on these kids to help me with this work at this time and simply we shake the queen bees down to bottom we don't look for the Queen because too many bees look at it and we just want to make as fast a time as we can when the canola starts to flow these boxes start to get plugged so we we need space on these hives like right now so we work long hours we we push to get this work done the more honey that gets brought into this nest while we're trying to move the bees down the harder it is for us because we start shaking nectar and it just becomes quite the chore so we work hard to try to get this work done on time before we super these hives up before harvest I'll pick a point in time after that second box has been hatched out so we gotta wait three weeks for sure but at time in July let's say July 20th or whatever I'm going through hives are filling up quite nicely go through test the honey for moisture and it's testing eighteen five or so and you know we pick our point in time when every want to start the honey flow harvest begins and what I do is I stage my hives super and according to my honey poll schedule but I have a one box per week rule so I'll stage my yards I can pull 500 hives in a week over 1200 hives 1500 hours including my nukes I put at the end there it takes me three weeks to get through everything in the first pull so the first stage of five hundred hives I'll keep them pretty tight because I'm gonna show them attention right away and they get and I'll show you how i pull my hives here in a second but the second week the second grouping of 500 hives I'll add a box to those guys just to give them a little more headspace for the time delay the third week there I'll give it to those guys two boxes right I'll stage my space ahead just according to my extraction schedule so then I start my honey pool and I start at the front end so we'll lift the the boxes and then we'll put empties underneath we use it skateboards so the escapes are left for three days and the bees they migrate down through the cones and they can't get back up so when the boxes are Fria bees will come back through and will strip the boxes off the top the bees naturally cycle throughout the hive they go up and down every few days or so and what we're doing with these the skateboards and is we're interrupting that natural migration up and down and by these boards will go through the cones or they can't get back up but they don't know any different because they have all the space they need underneath and they just keep working so we'll come through and we'll collect honey who just goes but we just come and you just strip the boxes off we don't lift any honey boxes anymore actually since I started using the skateboards and this easy loader to do all my work very rarely do we lift a box list and there's the problems when the Queen gets up to your excluder and there's brood up top we've got a sorter back down but that happens with any method you try pulling honey with but other than that this method is pretty efficient it's quick and pretty easy on her backs honey is brought back to the honey house and we put it in our hot room we'll keep her hot room at 30 degrees Celsius nice and warm I have a heated floor just to help keep the holy equipment toasty warm I have Windows setup at my hot rooms so the beads fly to these windows there's a few strains always come in to all these boxes and so we always have this trays fly to the windows so we don't have to deal them deal with them in the extracted room I ran a 60 frame count extractor and it cooks of beals wax separator and I run a three to four man crew inside the honey house will extract 18 to 22 drums a day by putting through 275 or 350 boxes in that day so the guys put in a pretty good day and we got a lot of honey out of it so we'll collect two to three honey rounds I rent to cruise I run a yard crew I'm in the yards typically they'll bring two or three kids with me depending on who shows up to work the extracting crew I typically run three to four and they're just depending on how I balance out my crew for the day and we start pulling honey middle July typically ends in September total honey production is roughly about 200 to 250 thousand pounds so that's the kind of production we're running here so the last round we're pushing the bees back downs with single boxes and these bees need feed right away a lot of these hives the bigger hives are eight to nine frames of brood and that leaves very little space for four honey stores down there so you're taking all their honey away because this is the way we set them up we've forced that Queen to utilize all that space below as a brood nest forestall that having to go up over top so now we take the honey away and we got to make sure she doesn't starve so right at this point in time we're going back down to singles they're gonna notice that Queen laying is dramatically reduced she's reducing her nest she doesn't need as much space anymore we go out after we pull our honey and we gotta be very careful that we don't overfeed them we got to be careful about 200 feet oh so this is extremely tight ballots and I can't stress this enough this is one of the points of time single beekeeper operators even myself sometimes this is the point of time you got to give these guys feet otherwise they starve you got to be very conscious on your fall flows out of your late summer flows if they don't have the nourishment coming in you take all that honey away they need feed so you got to give them a feed but don't overfeed them because they still have to maintain that winter nest right they still have to work on that winter nest so you got to give them the space to be able to make that nest and you gotta give them enough feed to keep him alive for eight so you just got it you got to find that balance and that's a hard one to find but it's very important to spend a lot of attention on that so in September we start bulk feeding feed assessment grounds so we do a fall assessment around to call out the poor hives we don't keep anything that isn't in suitable condition to winter fall disease assessments are done and treated accordingly I won't go into that but we spend a lot of time assessing and considering treatment for the fault and these nests are now fed very heavily to backfill that dust with food that Queen is reducing her her need for space to lay brood her brood laying is going down as she's as that nest is moving into a winter nest so what we do is as that brood hatches out that space she's not using anymore we backfill with syrup and we backfill right till October right till she's done brooding we packed that nest Rachael's feed for those bees to winter on the Queen finished up her brood leg and we backfill that brood nest with syrup old and plentiful summer bees make really quick work at historic way that's syrup there they don't have much to do and they're looking for work and they they go to town and they could pack some surf away in a short very short order so we make use of all those summer bees by getting him to prepare that hive for winter by October the perfect sized winter nest easily fits into that brood box we're looking at these beautiful look and winter nests we go around and we willwe around in hives while we feed just to see what these what the Averys wing and from this weight assessments will determine if these the apron needs more feed or not so we target a specific weight particularly with me I target 90 to 95 pounds per hive is what I want to get my hives Whang before they go into winter and I want to get them at that target by into September to into October just in case we have an early winter coming at oh I want to make sure that feed started away properly to give a real good winter feed so at this time we can also do some oxalic acid treatment which really does a number of these mites but the hives need to be brutalist so we can use this opportunity R to build a target these mites and very effectively kill off some of these white loads I'm not gonna get into that either that's a different topic but that's what we do just before it bring the hives in for winter so we picked the hives up from the yards put them onto my beet truck and we stock the hives into my winter shed so you know we're falling through the entire yearly cycle here so these hives are stocked by winter shed I stack up six high and I close the door and turn off the lights and that is my season so I hope this video has helped you understand what I do I hope it's provided to you a little bit of perspective on you know a different management technique it kind of shows you how I've intensively operate my bird nest according to the conditions and according to these Queen's ability I I've been away very attentively managing these bird nests to bring out absolute potential these Queens can give me imagining swarming I'm setting my apiary up to manage work load disease control building highs increase hives and then launching these hives into a honey flow we managed that queen up and down through the brood nest to bring out her absolute potential and in a way I consider it working with the bees just to promote their excellence okay so I hope that's helped you anybody has any questions I'm more than happy to entertain them so just shoot me a quick email or a message and we'll take it from there

Channel: a Canadian Beekeeper’s Blog

Views: 300,056

Keywords: single hive management, keeping bees in one brood box, single brood box, singles, honey bees, beekeeping, commercial beekeeping, a Canadian Beekeepers Blog, beekeeping in the north, swarm control, commercial swarm control, honey bee swarm control, feeding honey bees

Id: 386qWGnt_CU

Length: 42min 47sec (2567 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 17 2017