Sight Unseen Auction Buy | Sitting for Years | Will It Run?!?

see what we got for oil in it looks like loader tractor oil but smells like old oil little closer look here these valve springs are Rusty right there is our stuck valve believe that's antifreeze not a really good sign yeah that's antifreeze got an empty trailer with a winch on it all hooked up and ready to go and only mean one thing we're off to get some [Music] junk [Music] [Applause] [Applause] can you tell me any history of this thing old it I assume it dad B back in 19 I want to say 78 or8 okay you guys the farm around this thing so it probably farmed at one point or no there's always been like a yard track Tye Bally yard track use it for caring in Wood basically course oh really the hardest is you guys have cattle or [Music] yeah [Music] well here it is uh what I believe to be a 1956 Alice chers wd45 as well as the original plow that came with it um so the story with this is I have a friend who sent me a text the other night give me a phone call and said hey I'm bidding on some stuff on this online auction and they've got a tractor he says I don't need it but you probably do and uh I don't know how to say no to cheap stuff so ended up being for $500 I brought this load of Rusty gold home I called the auctioner and they weren't able to really tell me anything about it ahead of time other than it rann Park 10 years ago anybody curious looks like the serial number is 25103 but there was two pictures online that was about it so taking a look at it it it doesn't look like too bad of a tractor uh we got one decent Tire in the front's kind of hold air one's junk on the back got some Rust around the valve stems usually these have the draw bar broken right here so it hasn't had too tough life that way looks like the PTO shaft has maybe seen some better days this Rim needs some some rust repair but overall you know that's that's not too bad I can I can fix that up have to buy a set of tires for it probably looks like it's got the original engine in it these are pretty neat tractors they're awful powerful for their size they would be what people would consider Scrappy essentially you know you could pull a 314 plow in about any ground and uh these tractors only weigh about 4500 lb or so but I I think I got some video of the guy talking but he was saying that they bought this back in the 70s his dad did and they just kind of used it around their cattle farm so I don't think it's a real highh hour tractor you know usually you'll see these brakes being real sloppy grind they'll grind into the fender cuz they're sloppy and then the the checking here will be wore off sometimes these are worn pretty good heck this one's barely worn at all has good snap and what you call a hand clutch so these tractors in order to get what they call live Hydraulics and live power takeoff you had a foot clutch that would stop power to everything but once you had it in gear and you were going stop go to like raise the loader or something you can push that hand clutch out and that kills power right here so everything driven in front of that area which the hydraulic pump and the power takeoff are in front of that they stay in motion so forward motion stops with all the auxiliary power would keep going it's got the original hand crank with it which is pretty neat original toolbox usually these are rotted out it's not rotted out and some creases in the fenders but not too bad looks like it went through JL W maker I don't know if that would have been original or not but uh Autoville Ohio back before you had uh all the digits in your phone number there was no area code this probably the original steering wheel original wood spinner on it you know the more I look at it this seems like a darn nice tractor but oh wow yeah the gear shifts pretty tight this is your PTO engagement pull that out engages it then this is uh what would release your snap coupler implements so there's this Bell up in here and these latches so this eye goes in the bell and these go in your latches and uh theoretically you can hitch and unhitch these implements without ever getting off the tractor which is pretty neat and uh kind of revolutionary for the time because competition for these tractors would have been like a Farmall M uh maybe even a super M uh what else would you have probably joh Deere 60s would be similar to this and uh not that those weren't good machines everything's got its pros and cons but you know one of these little tractors could really walk walk the dog on them for for Speed and and plowing in a lot of places and then that that hydraulic lift was was pretty nice you didn't have to pull behind anything and they had the traction booster which is draft control in a modern machine and that would allow you to get by with this lightweight tractor and and do a lot more work put the horsepower to the ground but but yeah overall seems like pretty good tractor I I think it already looks like a decent buy at $500 um he said it turned over so I we'll check that out but uh I'm going to say I'm going to back it in the shop here and turn some heat on and uh see if we can get this thing running and going to start out taking a look at a few things here just your typical stuff see if there's clean fuel tank or not oh looks like it still has fuel in it I it don't smell bad though I think they tried to I think they put some in it tried to get it to run he mentioned he said that kind of like they tried to get it running like they cranked it over or something or or maybe it wouldn't crank over there's the batteries from looks like October 20 2010 yeah maybe we'll flush that carburetor out looks like it might be the original engine it it is a wd45 engine I was a little curious because somebody has cut this Hood out for a later style like uh uh this style Muffler was probably originally used on like a series 3 d17 you maybe seen these on like a 170 or something similar engine uh but a little quieter Muffler but when they did it man they did a nice job they didn't really I mean technically they hacked the hood up but there's the original divot from the circle but I mean that's nice that might sound good you know if it wasn't rotted out these are the or original decals underneath it's got some original paint That's the original decal on the front I believe so it's got some fuel in it look like the original temperature gauge looks real nice I'm not seeing any coolant there we look pretty bone dry there's some moisture but that that adds up because you can see maybe yeah you can see that moisture that kind of green color right there I bet it's seeping along the bottom but the rest of that radiator looks pretty good so might have to do some patching but that should be all right somebody has bent this front axle pivot in and uh well they probably didn't bend it in they actually bend it out and imagine that front end fell off at one point in time because this should be flipped 180 and this little block should be on the back so I'll bet you they pulled that forward was pulling it out of the mud or something and uh and they messed that up yeah so I can bend that straight we'll put that back to the way it should be yeah I'm sure they probably yanked on that thing and bent that out that front end prob fell well didn't fall out from under it but I'm sure it got bent up I thought this was kind of neat they got beauty rings on them never seen that on anything before sure they're not Factory they're off a car of some kind but kind of neat looks like oil pan in good shape usually the the uh drain plugs are all rounded off this one's in good shape I don't see signs of it leaking all over the place somebody's been in the engine there some silicone up there got some play tighten that up but all that's all in the actual taper so you probably tighten that nut up get that play out of it see if got any hydc oil oh it's got some that's plenty for me not to worry about it looks like we've had some some grounding issues here there's probably the original ground cable and whatever they're using now still has traction booster gauge looks like a replacement though that's an aftermarket gauge there but good that it's got the lines and everything on it so they've got the remote hydraulic line unhooked probably because of the loader you know if it gives you any idea the actual hours is this tire right here I will I would pretty much guarantee you that that is the original rear tire on this thing we've got a it's a good year no I might be wrong cuz it's it's a 149 instead of the old style uh 1328 so this I I think this sure looks like it could be an original tire and if it was that's how much wear it's got on it so I know you look at the old promotional videos and this is the type of Tire they had on them so if that's original that would give you a pretty good guesstimate of how many at least road miles you know you can pull a plow a long time without wearing tire out but uh that would tell you got a beauty ring on this side too that's tight that front end's pretty tight you know aside from that front pivot and that's probably worn funny because they got it bent and we'll repair that little cracking down in the radiator shell that's real [Music] Comming see what we got for oil in it looks like loader tractor oil but right up there on the top smells like old oil doesn't really smell like gas like the engines wore out this got bent somehow and looks like somebody wacks some chains over the hood or something right there but man the sheet metal other than that I mean it's pretty darn it is pretty darn straight there's another one of them W maker sales I'm sure that's where he bought it I don't know if that's where it would have been sold originally or not that decal looks newer than or uh yeah newer than the 50s that would be their like 7s decal if I remember right here's your loader tag these were built by Freeman uh Freeman loaders are pretty common but they built them for Alice this one ain't in too bad a shape some of the pins are butchered up and this been welded back together but it's got the lower brace you know she's she's done some work in her day in a few wallard out spots this is uh not the original handle somebody fabric that together and you know some people are going to ask about this tractor uh when they see it in the background here it it will run soon uh I've been super busy the last 6 months or so remodeling a house so I haven't had any time to work on this but I just recently started back in on it and uh everything's looking pretty good so it should be a runner here hopefully in the next few weeks use this hand crank can reach in here and see if I can turn it over fell said it was free and uh I believe in but this will at least tell me what it's got for compression well she she's a little tight it's not it ain't it's not stuck but it's it's kind of tight [Music] yeah it's threee but it ain't got much compression uh the Rings are probably seized up in it so let's uh let's dump a little oil down those cylinders the plug looks healthy off the number three cylinder number four doesn't look too bad might have a little moisture in that one but uh looks healthy otherwise I've worked on quite a few of these Alice Cher's 2011 and 226 cubic inch four cylinders and pretty nice to work on they're pretty simple H that one looks pretty good too not too bad same deal looks like I had a touch of moisture in it somebody put champions in there I'm not a big Champion Guy usually put Auto lights in all these tractors they like to run pretty good on [Music] those number one looks pretty good too got this concoction to put in here they it's a little bit of everything little transmission fluid little acetone little PB Blaster uh there's Marvel Mystery Oil in there one of those has to uh loosen her up go ahead and turn the engine over now and get that worked into the cylinders oh that's helping yeah probably wouldn't have been a great idea to start that engine without doing this give them a few more pumps and we'll let them sit it while we check out the electrical and the fuel system sometimes those crusty old clamps will surprise you I'm sure you get your pry bar chisel combination out you can use these brushes to clean up terminals or you can use a similar thing in a drill like a plumbing plumbing brush or something but something to keep in mind cuz I've ran into it before is that some of these and I think it's it's the acid that causes it from a battery but you'll actually get a buildup inside these that a that a brush won't take out and you can you can tell that when you're scraping them out if you can get a knife in there and just scrape the lead out of that clamp you're probably okay but that other stuff man it'll grow in there and it'll be so hard you can barely scrape it out with a knife and when that gets in there it it does not seem to allow current to transfer through so that's always something to check cuz you can you can just clean and clean and clean with one of these but it won't take that layer out so if you ever find yourself cleaning and cleaning and you're still not getting good contact seems like you got a poor ground check that make sure you don't have a hard buildup inside those clamps that one that one's shining up just fine pick a ground clamp here to use this one kind of has it it's peeling out okay but you can probably hear the grittiness in here lead doesn't make that noise that is buildup that corrosive build up in there now if you get that cut out you'd be just fine you can use these terminals over well that's not perfect but better than it was guys see if we have any life here so normally this would be a key switch and this would be a light switch but it looks like we got something else over here maybe for this additional hazard light they've got on there it's kind of neat I've not seen one like that before sure it's off of something maybe an old dealership addon looks like agrat brand is the lenses at least they're they're plastic lenses so probably not that old but this would have been your original just this bullet tail light and some of them had a light down here I don't remember if all of them would had a rear work light or not not sure that would have been Factory now nothing on the the lights well yeah no lights don't seem like we got really power anywhere there but let's see if we got power to our starter oh yeah cool well that's what we need there so I guess guess uh up next let's see if we can get some uh spark out of this thing all right so I'm going to do some checking here and see if I've got voltage to my coil should have around 6 volts here showing a volt and a half uh let me let me flip the switches around and see if that changes at all now none of the switches are making a difference let's check back out our battery cable here to the starter yeah just over 6 volts that's good so I'm thinking we've got a a fuse that's bad these generally have a fuse right in here okay see that's not hooked up um this little switch isn't hooked anything that switch is hooked to nothing so we we need to see looks like the only switch they have in operation is this replacement that they've got on uh the what would have been the original ignition switch so let me check that all right got our ground set up check it on on our positive battery terminal part six one of these sides should show 6 volts there's 6 volts there's your one and A2 okay well I got some contact cleaner let me try to get that switch working usually if you can get some electrical cleaner down in along the stem uh you can get these to come back to life but that she feels better now see if that's working so that's our 6 Vols in it's still only one and a half out well I don't have a switch handy but I've got to work around for that just to see if we can get this thing running we'll put a jumper on it now I'll put this jumper wire right there to the coil and the other end is going to run up to our positive well technically negative battery cable cuz these are positive ground tractors so now I should have 6 volt to my coil there we go now that I know we've got voltage to our coil and try a spark test to verify whether or not we have actual ignition spark and that's a good hot spark I don't know if you could see that or not let me crank it one more time well seeing that I'm going to go ahead you know I'm sure this distributor needs uh taken apart checked out and everything cleaned but just for the initial will this thing Run is it worth the effort type of check over uh I'm going to go ahead and put those plugs back in and put the wires back on and then we're going to move on to the fuel system I got a better look inside this tank and I mean it's clean there's like a small portion in the very middle of the bottom that it looks like it might have had I know maybe a little water settle out or something there's a small amount of rust in there but the rest of it's like brand new looking you can see the strainer and everything so but it's it's it's like half full of fuel and it smells like fresh fuel so I'm thinking and by what uh the sun said at the uh pickup of this thing I believe they tried to get it running for the auction they just didn't try uh very didn't go very far with it you know put some fuel in it and uh it didn't start essentially so what I'm going to do is I'm going to drain it out through the carburetor and if as long as that flows clean I'm going to close it back up and uh we may try to fire this thing up doesn't look like anybody's been in here for a while and uh actually you know what I see something here this here you may not be able to see it GoPro doesn't Focus good at closeup objects but this is shiny so somebody's ran this choke so I wonder they might have even tried to jump the thing and it and it didn't start um that could very well be they might have had a jump pack on it and had it turning over at least now that's that had some Varnish in it without a doubt that's got a little smell to it got a little clog in there cuz that should be flowing way better than that I'm guessing it's probably because of this sediment bowl looks pretty dirty I've got some gasket material if I need to make a new gasket so I'm going to go ahead and clean this while we're at it and you can see the separation of clean new fuel and old Fuel and water mixed together in that and some sludge in the bottom see how well this clows right here yeah there's our clog is uh is there up in that fuel neck a lot of times what'll happen is right here where this sediment bowl goes up there's kind of a riser that goes up into that tank and all the will end up plugging up in that Riser and you pretty much just got to take this out and clean everything up uh the problem here is this tank is now half full so I'm going to see if I can blow back through this line and unclog that this is not the original fuel line of this tractor they were routed better and tucked in but they rarely have The Originals on them when they're this old yeah it's moving so slow it's not even coming down through there you go that's that's what you want to see that's what the flow should look like not that small trickle we had earlier it smells good they definitely had to put some uh fresh fuel in this thing try to get it going see what kind of flow we're getting out of this thing now coming through the carburetor yeah that that that's more like it that's what we want to see that's enough to feed this thing under full load not not what was coming out before [Music] turn the fuel back on check for leaks make sure our needle's going to seal up looks like we're good I believe we are this close to hearing this thing run we've got fuel we've got spark oh there's air in the room so that's there uh seems like we've got some compression now uh so I'm going to hook that jumper wire up it's going to give us Spark again I'm going to crank this thing up and you're probably going to see all kinds of mouse nests or whatever blow out of that exhaust so let's give it a try all right let's see what we've got here got a neutral going to give it a little throttle some choke she should fire up well we've got everything we should need should have spark everything's hooked up might have to give it just a sniff of ether well that did not fire raate up so let me double check that we have spark and we may want to give it just a whiffy ether it uh might be down compression on a couple cylinders it kind of sounds like and that's not helping anything and we got spark I'm thinking we're being a little too reliant on that old fuel uh even if it's fresh uh mixing with some of that old fuel sometimes doesn't work great all right I pulled the air cleaner boot off and uh she's flooding out a little bit which I think has a lot to do with uh the mixture of old and new fuel that this may or may not have in it so I'm going to spray a little starting fluid and I'm hoping that'll get it to crack off I'll let this thing set a minute and I've got a charger on the battery ply g a little more juice uh but I'm willing to try it again and see if we can get this thing [Laughter] going the spark plugs almost seem like they're not getting fuel so you kind of got that lumpy crank you know so I think a couple of these cylinders really aren't getting compression that we need to get this thing fired up you may have a uh a step valve or something so I'm I'm going to pull these plugs out and we're going to check compression real quick see see what we're working with well we've got compression on of some kind on one two and three number four we got a we got a dead cylinder there since I've got my Bor scope handy I'm just going to go ahead and uh check in these cylinders what am I looking at here I should really invest in a better B scope oh looks like we got some average looking cylinders our valves there's our one valve that's probably why we've got no compression let me where are we at so that's our valve hanging down let me crank it that should move see that's that's not moving so let me work on that real quick not a huge fan of that uh good chance if you got it running that would pop free but I'm going to pull the hood off in the valve cover and see what's hanging that thing up I'm sure it's just stuck a couple wraps from the top will have it loose but let's do it kind of the right way instead of prying around through the plug [Music] hole this one's still has most the original screws in the hood which don't make it particularly easy to take off one nice thing about these WDS and WD 45s and RC's and WC's they all got this nice platform except for the Diesels but uh you pile all your tools there so last minute when you're done working you got to clear that thing off pretty typical looking under here looks clean in there in a little while since somebody's been in here there some moisture around the water pump pulley that may uh be part of our low coolant issue you know this looks like a pretty well cared for tractor to be honest with you you know it's been somewhat neglected in the past few years but you know you'll see these things and the valve covers all caved in from people overtightening this you know this will be worn through you'll have broken off bolts it's it's overall it's pretty good shape sometimes you can get a little indication from the oil fills looks pretty clean down in there sometimes you see a bunch of sludge built up from Vapor over the years uh get this valve cover off that'll kind of tell you a story too whether or not they ever Ed detergent oil in it or this one may look pretty rough being it was a loader tractor and probably did a bunch of uh here and there work not a lot of field [Music] work all right this could be rough see what we we've got in here take some moisture which was expected uh definitely seen a lot worse but you never want to see that much condensation underside of the valve cover is not not too bad at all uh just a little buildup in there but uh I'll wipe that out this is actually what what looks like sludge is actually it it's water water buildup you can see it run down the inside of that just got like coagulated oil over it um but it's not rusted out I've pulled these apart where the whole inside of this is is pitted up and uh this whole valve train everything is uh covered in Rust this one's got some though with without a doubt has some Rust little closer look here these valve springs are Rusty right there is our stuck valve that one's free uh this is the one that's stuck down we may get a surprise uh when we start this engine uh I might want to crack the drain plug cuz this that Frost plug looks like it's pushed out a bit maybe it maybe it's not and the other one's similar but I I might crack that plug before we before we fire it up it's kind of one of those things that you you go well maybe I should pull this apart and then you get in a little bit of a hurry and you you don't need to do that just see if it runs and and you kind of pull it apart like well this thing could could use a little bit of lubrication in it here's something interesting that uh I don't know it's probably been going on a while I doubt it just happened but uh that oil feed line is broke off so I had put that on the list of uh making a new one but that could have been uh been broke off for quite a while that's what uh that's what feeds your feeds your rocker arms see if I can get this one tapped free usually some light Taps on it and yep there we go there she goes now it's free and uh that was the only stuck one I believe we got oil pumping real thin oil pumping H yeah I think I want to drain this crank case out maybe at least the bottom cuz that almost seem that was like pumping water you know I'm not sure if this is a replacement oil pan I don't think I've ever owned one of these where uh they had this divot back here so wonder if that's a replacement but I've seeing some things I'm kind of curious if you got some water some moisture in it and we've been cranking it over so it might be stirred up but generally if something's been sitting long enough all the water will settle to the bottom believe that's antifreeze it's C it's certainly not oil it's way too thin to be oil not a really good sign yeah that's antifreeze here get oil well that's still man I've had a ton in this that's it's still leaking out so catch you up slight bit here I did a little work without filming it all that antifreeze coming out of the oil just had me couple things feeling bad that I didn't check it to start with uh should have checked that out before I started cranking on it um but then it's kind of all right well where did the antifreeze come from uh it definitely wasn't water it was it was antifreeze so uh basically Ally these have uh wet sleeves so the O-rings on the bottom of the sleeves could be the problem they could be leaking there you can have your head gasket leaking um I didn't really think that was the issue or there's a very common place for them to leak and that is these freeze plugs expansion plugs soft plugs whatever you want to call them in the head here top of the head and that is our issue so let me show you here so hopefully you can see that uh I'm going to very gently add some air to the cooling system with hopes not to make a mess here you can see that coming out it's kind of right in that shadow there you go you can see you can see that pin hole there right at the top of the screen the top of that soft plug that right at the tip of my knife that little speck that's a hole that is Rusted through that soft plug that's where all the coolant came from so that leaves us to replace those uh if you're going to do one you might as well do two so I'll do do both of them to pick those up um I've already flushed this crank case out uh flushed over the heads and stuff uh there's still this you know moisture rust problem going on in here but um we're going to go ahead and pick up some of those soft plugs and we're going to put some fresh oil in here before we go any farther but I am pretty thankful that uh it didn't start and I looked into this a little further because I did wouldn't be ideal to start running it and have all that antifreeze wipe the bearings out wouldn't be any good at all cuz I don't think it's been run like that I think that's happened since uh it's been sitting because there was there's no metal bearing material anything came out of the crank case so I think we're we're good to go this engine's fine but just got to replace those soft plugs I'm back here the next day and I've got I believe the correct Welch plugs to go in uh this head that's leaking now so I'm going to go ahead and uh get the coolant drained down a bit and it it looks like probably the best bet is to uh pull this rocker assembly loose uh that way way I can get a good uh straight shot to drive the new ones [Music] in and now it's a good opportunity uh to clean clean all that rust up got the coolant all drained down so I'm going to see about pulling these plugs now what I got going is a pair of ice grips with this kind of tea handle welded on it just going to pop that with a hammer and I think it should pop plug right out there's the back one now this one wasn't leaking yet but uh you know probably not far behind the other one plenty crusty on the bottom side there and here's the other one and this one this one was our leaker you can see the daylight coming through it I mean that that's a huge crater I don't know yeah maybe you can see the crater on the right side of it there this big old rust flake came out uh but that was our problem without a doubt now the rest of the the head in there aside from what we're looking at at the top doesn't look too bad so uh I'm going to vacuum that out and uh clean all the crust up and we'll drive our new ones in so able to get the head cleaned up pretty good the BS where the Welch plugs go look pretty decent I think they should seal up here's my new plugs uh going go ahead and put a little uh Indian Head shellac on them and been around a while but thicker is all right with what I'm doing here yeah well they're in there we'll fill it up see if they leak I guess I'm going to add a little air pressure to the cooling system and see if I can get it to leak well I put some some solid pressure on that and it didn't didn't blow out so so I'm okay with running that for now so I got everything cleaned back up got the new Welch plugs in did a uh quick little pressure test they didn't blow out I don't know I'm not real thrilled with how tight they went in I think they should have went in a little tighter but with that shellac on there maybe it was giving me a false sense of uh you know really how much friction is holding them in there but uh I'm going to go ahead and uh start sticking this thing back together was able to get the rocker shaft and all the Rockers cleaned up pretty nice uh there's a little bit of pitting on them but nothing nothing too bad oh no the rocker shaft's upside down dang it I pull it all back apart this needs to go into a hole right there and it's on the bottom side so I need to pick this up just enough to get it past the studs rotate at 180 and put it back down now our holes on top a new feral and a nut Lu it's long enough that it didn't have to make a new piece all right it's good and sturdy just want to crank this over and make sure we got a little bit of Gap they're not going to be perfect cuz we pulled it all apart put it back together but I just don't want anything sitting tight when I try to uh start it up uh I don't remember if I checked that one all right we got gap on everything so uh I say the engine's been flushed I'm going to put a new filter on it fill it back up with oil need to make a gasket for the drain plug there's a gasket nice clean oil in there sure looks good H compared to what we found yesterday see if I crank this thing over and get some oil pumping up through it I can see it pumping up in here so all this does is this tube pumps up and fills that rocker shaft and then that seeps out into the rocker arms get these spark plugs put back in it I would like to know the story behind that crack right there you know is that like a was it a casting flaw or what now I really believe we're to the point where this thing is ready to fire we've got compression on all four cylinders now got the plugs cleaned off we got the gallon or so of antifreeze out of the oil uh we're doing pretty good here so we've got antifreeze in it so if it starts up we can let it run I'm going to hook our ignition back up turn our fuel back on and let's give this thing a crank okay cross your fingers let's see if it fires up a little bit of throttle some choke and the starter all right on to try four or five or six or whatever we're on see what we got I really think it's some of this old gas that's mixed in here is our problem try a little laser why I can tell is this old fuel is not getting atomized correctly maybe it's older than I thought it was um it sure doesn't smell Old St fluid crank there we go [Music] [Music] go away sounds good sounds real good good oil pressure getting oil all our rockers now no sticky vals well don't want to idle quite that low here we go boy it Pur H runs good s real good some of this smoke out of here just the house cover back gone before we have oil flung everywhere let's see if our loader raises oh yeah little slow awesome and you can't ask for it to run much better than that I've had it sitting here idling for like 15 20 minutes now and uh looks like the temperature gug Works brought it up about 120 aside from the uh valve cover leaking it doesn't look like the front or the rear main seal leak which is amazing because either the oil pan or the front of the rear main crank seal on these like always leaks um still holding good oil pressure uh don't know anything about the charging system like I said it was all unhooked [Music] don't think that's smoke coming out I think that's a rust and dirt in the Muff if it'll idle down or not yeah you cannot complain about that at all that thing runs good so I'm going to go ahead and unhook the battery from this thing and I'm going to let it sit overnight and come back tomorrow and see what's dripped out of it or if those Welch plugs are leaking or anything and if everything looks all right we're going to get it unloaded get it get actually put on the ground in the shop here instead of up on a trailer I don't know I just I like driving them off the trailer for some reason it's hard to work on the trailer but uh you know if you can drive them off it's kind of fun that way little bit of a challenge but we will check back tomorrow well it's the next day I'm back here and uh going to pull that valve cover off and see if there's any seepage around those Welch plugs and get this thing unloaded first take a look under [Music] here yeah everything looks good which is awesome because I I was worried that we might have something that seeped but it it doesn't look like it at all I actually happened to have a new valve cover gasket laying around so I'll throw that on there can at least eliminate some of the uh the mess while this thing's running oh [Applause] [Music] [Applause] come is [Music] left one more added to my current snap coupler plow collection it's a 73 and 83 and I believe this is a 53 I even really looked at it I'm assuming everything's seized up oh the beaming screws not about these yeah the lift links are seized up put some oil on those get that soaking but this plow is in in pretty darn nice shape and uh this should have been like the the original plow that came with that tractor or at least the right model um got to get rid of one of these probably this 73 is going to go away cuz this is an that 83 that I fixed up got the trip bottoms on it stuff and the new new plow shares and shins are good so that's a nice plow to work with and uh this one should be pretty nice too just wouldn't be quite as good in uh like hi trash situations you got a little more height and a little more width like forward and backward for trash you kind of look at the throat on this one and the throat on one of these you can clear a lot more trash in one of those plows and same basic design but just a little progression through the years this would have been one of the first if not the first snap coupler plows and that would have been the uh the last Model that 83 there little progression but she's been running for about a half hour now everything's still sounds good doesn't look like that valou buper gasket sealed up very good we got a bit of a puddle on the ground believe that's where it's coming from sure looks like it pretty common for these to get Warped might not have it this not have it tight enough you got to be careful they they do warp easily still doesn't want to idle but I don't think I can complain about that unhook our ignition so I'd like your opinion what should I do with this thing um it's in pretty good shape I mean it needs at least one new rear tire and tube and the rims fixed up uh I mean that alone you're looking at over $11,000 for a tire and a tube which is twice what I paid for the whole thing uh that's kind of the fun of old equipment like this uh but a little rundown it probably needs the radiator patched up um it's going to need a muffler this tire will need replace this tube will need replaced I have to patch this Rim up here uh it's pretty good shape unless the whole inside's rotted out uh but that's not too bad I can patch that up without much issue uh it'll need a battery pretty much uh need completely rewired um they're pretty simple so that's not too big a deal I didn't even really try the brakes on this thing uh they're out there quite a ways but I'm guessing uh there's plenty of adjustment left it's really it's really a pretty tight tractor no real goodies in the tool box it's missing a wheel lock and I was hoping that would be in there but it's not has a Mitch Match set of lift latches that's not really required to get it going good but uh I probably have one of those laying around to match this side or vice versa this time is pretty good it does have some cracking on it um I wouldn't be afraid to run it for years I don't know if I could find a match I'd love to find a match to that those are some of my favorite looking tires is the old Firestone Field and Roads um and this one is really it's it's darn near new condition I don't know how old it is I don't see not seen a date stamp it's kind of a cheaper one it's a four ply uh I have to go through the carburetor clean the carburetor it's not a real big deal um generator does have seems tight so it'll probably be fine that'll probably work fine just have to rewire it uh new intake boot front tires are cracked up uh but I wouldn't be afraid to run them for a long time that one will need patched up this front plate needs uh bent straight and flipped around and then probably build this boss back up and uh machine it out probably I need a water pump and new hoses uh new battery box uh or at least fix this one up uh the headlight lens on the other side's cracked it'll need some work there uh but overall it's it's a excellent start uh to like a restoration or just to fix one of these up to use it um I think my preference on uh this machine would be to fix it up and put it to work and take it to some equipment shows and plow days uh I already have another one I've owned I don't know this is probably the sixth or sth WD and wd45 I've owned um so I'm not not new to them had this junk for for years probably well 10 12 years I've been doing this type of stuff um but it's too nice to part out in my opinion uh it needs more money put in it than what it's worth but pretty much everything like this is uh in that same category with uh parts to repair cost more than the actual machine does um but let me know what you think uh should uh should I part it out should I fix it up should I just flip it get it out of here I don't know I'm not really sure kind of bought it on a whim and uh help you let you guys help decide so let me know what you think and uh if you like this type of stuff uh go ahead subscribe to the channel uh give the video a like and uh there should be more videos like this to come like I said I've been doing this stuff for 10 12 years and I just recently started recording it so don't plan to stop anytime soon so there should be more of this to come uh but appreciate you all watching and uh I'll see you on the next one

Channel: Randy's Relics

Views: 60,569

Keywords: allis chalmers, antique tractor, diesel creek, old iron, vintage tractor, farming, agriculture, welker farms, classic tractor fever, Squatch253, just a few acres farm, renner stock farms, millennial farmer, larson farms, laura farms, andrew camarata, salvage workshop, Vice Grip Garage, Heavy Equipment, Caterpillar, Jennings Motor Sports, Will it run, heavydsparks, Pacific Northwest Hillbilly, Tick Creek Ranch, Rainman Ray's Repairs, Marty T, Jims Automotive Machine Shop

Id: kj2E2eMJEfc

Length: 85min 4sec (5104 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 01 2024