SIBOOR Voron Trident Build Final: Configuring Tap And Printing

[Music] [Music] and we are live what's going on everybody happy Wednesday uh if you're in the states it's the the day before Thanksgiving so I hope everybody is having a great week so far I am very excited because today is the day that quite uh quite literally has been months in in the works and we are going to finally be printing on this trident so uh we are going to I'm going to bring everyone up to speed on what we did last week uh very quickly a couple things I noticed and then we are going to get right into it so um I did want to take a quick moment to say hello to a few people here let's see uh Maurice thank you for 4 months I also saw just a moment ago we got a new member uh Striker I'm going to do some air horn action thank you very much for becoming a m number uh who's all here today we've got Elizabeth made it hi welcome uh Jose's here Mitch Aaron we are printing Aaron the the printer Gods shined down on us last week I thought for sure when we powered this on things were going to be not working correctly because of some issues we ran into with the wiring and everything pretty much just worked and it was spooky um so yes we are going to be printing uh time to gain some hibernation weight yeah we've got Aaron works at a Costco and they gave us a massive what we think is a 20 lb frozen turkey for me Aaron and Jackson we're going to try to like mince some of the turkey up uh so there's going to be a a ridiculous amount of food I anticipate tomorrow will be full of cooking eating and sleeping so um let's see who else is all here hey hey maker Viking Do's here uh Lisa I think I said hi if I didn't hi 1060 is here PF GPS is here all that practice is paying on off yes uh Haron welcome so yeah let's let's quickly touch on a couple of things here so for anyone that's hasn't been here for any of these this is the cybor Trident 300 mm kit um it is an older uh PF thank you for the five gifted memberships I will do let's do some air horn and we'll do some cheers thank you very much um the that totally threw me off um this is an older variant of the kit so they've definitely made some tweaks but there were some small issues throughout the build relatively small stuff like when we were doing the frame a couple of the holes that were punched out still had some of the aluminum uh inside of the channels which I didn't see which they've since corrected there was uh what El did we run into we had a the XY PCB for the steppers the X limit switch was was uh bent on it even though I I don't think that was something from Factory I think that that was probably something that happened in shipping um what were the other things there was that there was that oh the the big uh gear for the stealth burner or for the Clockwork um was their older gear which was not the correct gear um they they have swapped we ran into this on their v0.2 build and they had swapped it out and had changed all kits apparently they didn't go back to some of the older kits in their inventory and change them so um I had plenty of spares because I ran into the issue with the VZ .2 but I let them know about it and they I let them know about all those things um and they basically apologized and said they were going to make sure that these things didn't happen moving forward um Brian thank you for becoming a member we'll do we're doing air horns for everyone today um I don't know if they released a second revision yet um and the and so the first three things weren't the end of the world to me like the the Extrusion thing was not a big deal once I figured out it was more of an annoyance uh and so I let them know so that way they can hopefully include in their QC line double-checking that the pockets are cleared on these extrusions the XY um limit switch thing was I if I was able to order a a separate one from Shamy or XR bunker uh but if that if that didn't happen I was just going to run sensorless so that also wasn't a big deal the biggest deal to me was the wiring and I didn't realize it until last week's stream but somebody at the factory made a whoopsie and basically combined some stuff from their trident kit and their 2.4 kit so like this wiring guide that we referencing is it says cybor voron 2.4 stealth burner wiring of spider 2.3 and I did see that from the beginning but thought that maybe because of how similar the wiring was they just were using the same thing but I don't believe that's the case anymore I believe what happened was they when it came down to the electronics put the 2.4s electronics in here and the issues that caused was one this was confusing two the config that came pre- flashed on the spider board was for a 2.4 uh and three the wire lengths and plugs were meant for a 2.4 so there was like an additional stepper driver so that was the biggest thing the other things I was like yeah that's not really you know like yes they need to be corrected but the electrical thing I expressed my frustration to them and they have apologized and said that like it's not going to happen they're going to their kits but I I am bummed out that it happened in the first place because it certainly added it added a fair bit of uh confusion to to the build last week so um yes so the pretty much everything has been corrected and is working uh let me show you guys that's not right what happened side camera says no signal that's because I didn't plug the HDMI cable in I got like usual even not streaming I get squirrel sidetracked let me plug this Cable in that's funny I powered it on put it in position and forgot to plug in the cable let's see hopefully this turns on uh what's going on here should be on in three two one there we go okay so couple things I've noticed that were first oh couple things I've noticed that we first need to check out and these are yes very very squirely the new extruder gear is still not great the shaft on my unit was so thick that the bearing needed to be pressed pressed interest thing I would have I would not have press fit I would have sanded it um that's interesting to hear um on the v0.2 they were sending out FEC uh FEC branded extruder gears so interesting um so the couple things I've noticed is one the when the printer turns on this fan is is running uh which this is the partk cooling fan certainly should not be running the the so then so then I was like okay well maybe um maybe it's on the wrong Port uh and it's wired onto an always on Port I double checked it's not um and so if it's if it is running though like always on it's running very very slow which then led me to realize that the jumpers on the board are not set correctly which isn't on cbor like it didn't say they were I just I assumed and that's on me I think they're set to 12 volts so we're only getting 12 volts for 24 volt fans is is what it looks like um so we need to correct that we need to turn this off swap jumpers and then if this continue if if when we power this printer on this is running I'm going to assume that potentially the mosfet is bad uh and we'll swap ports that's that's the only that's that's what we're going to do so the the things we did last week was verify that our therms were working our heaters were working um it was not homing in the correct direction and it should now be homing in the correct direction so let's verify that really quick um let me get my hands ready on the switch just in case it goes the wrong way so we've got xhome yep that's the correct it's a uh it is a two wire fan it's a two wire fand delar uh and then we've got a the wi switch let's make sure that goes hey zombie okay so yeah X and Y is homing correctly so I'm going to go ahead and power this off really quickly here shut down yes you need to change the jumper to fix which jumper the only jumpers I saw so I pulled up um I pulled up this guy which is the spyer v2.3 and if I'm looking at these this is where our wires are so the hot end wire is here in in Slot 4 and the the layer cooling fan is here in I guess the fifth from the left and all I see is voltage selection so 12 24 or 5 12 and 24 and 24 is red so we need to move jumpers over to Red check that you have the correct pinout I had a nightmare swapping between 1.0 and 2 I I did I did check that the pin out was correct so it it is it looks like we've got PA 13 and pa1 14 and I did check that so we we can check again let's first start by swapping these jumpers over let's go side [Music] view bring you guys in like this so we've got three jumpers um I'm probably going to use yeah I'm not going to get that my fingers let's get um get one of these tweezers I used another motherboard oh what did yours come with the the spider as well herin we've got other motherboards um I mean I want my goal is because I always do kit um see if we can get these off no these tweezers don't grip very hard I usually have to sort of go at an angle okay those aren't going to work let's see these are slightly better tweezers come on okay maybe I am using my fingers yeah that's what we're do so let's lift these off okay so the nice thing is that the pins are colorcoded so it's yellow is 5 volts um blue is 12 and red is 24 so we're just going to put these back on onto the red posts like so okay so that's fine if you have shoter tweezers you can grab the bar and that's probably not IDE little rubber end tweez yeah I ordered um after the the uh micros Swiss video I just did somebody mentioned that I should get cuz I was pulling the plugs I couldn't reach like there small um I think they were jst pH the the tiny ones and I couldn't actually get my fingers around the connector so I was pulling the wires but as close to the connector as possible and they said hey there's there's little tweezers you can get that have sort of a 45° Kink at the end so I did order some iFixit tweezers that are coming so we'll have that okay let's power this on and see if the fan is still Auto spinning I imagine it's going to be I think it's a mosfet thing and not a voltage selection thing yeah interesting interestingly enough it's not it doesn't appear to be actually spinning faster either okay so we need to figure out that I'm probably going to switch we're going to probably power this right back off and switch ports to the one on the other side and see if that'll work but let's let's make sure that our hotend fan is working uh now that I played around with those jumpers so once this power is on I'm just going to just going to turn on the heater and let's see if it kicks on right away so let's go 220 yeah okay so at least that's working so let's turn that off and let's shut this down Okay so we're going to move it over to what would be uh pb2 it looks like so let power this back off uh tip put the fans you don't use down to 5 volts it's not you mean just so you don't damage them or cuz I mean I only pretty much exclusively am using 24volt fans on these builds jinx this whole stream by declaring it will printed no no no no no no no we're we're trust me we're I mean even if for some reason I can't figure out what's going on with this fan right now we're still printing I it just means we won't have good part cooling or the partk cooling is always going to be on okay so right now um verify which one my big old fingers there we go okay so this is hot and fan so this is par cooling fan right here I can't even get these are so close together dude yeah because it's only a single wire going into this I don't really want to yank it up so let's see if I can grab the connector right here I'm missing a pull if the wire pops out I'll figure it out God it's so stuck here we go okay moving it over plugging it in uh it's safety basically it protects you you should accidentally plug in a 5vt or 12volt fan not necessarily but not a bad yeah I I I definitely understand it ESD tweezers if somebody's got a link uh use the tweezers to lever under the lip on the connector yeah if somebody's got a link to good um ESD tweezers I don't think the ones I got from my fix it are anti-static okay so let's plug this in again let's see if in this case I'm hoping that the fan certainly shouldn't Auto turn on we're we're in a completely different connector so let's see if the top pin uh let's see if the top pin PO is on yeah I usually just pull and yank too alien especially if it's if it's got both wires in but because it was this um this setup they're like using a common are using common ground though they're using common 24 volts I think for everything I I it's a little bit sketchier having just the one wire to pull from okay here we go you see my chin it's still running I don't I don't understand how is that possible I'm kind of at a loss unless unless it's possible that I am okay we could check something else here um I'm almost wondering if the I'm almost wondering if that wire is not the wire that goes to that fan and maybe I've got the wire that goes to that fan plugged into a different voltage yeah I don't think it's um so let's see here if we go desktop and we go here so this should be I just it was in pa14 now it's in pb2 so we can swap it over P refresh fans [Music] are down here there we go okay hot in Fan's fine so it's this one um just regular fan yeah Kickstart time print cooling fan wait is it because they have it labeled uh I have white labels on the cable nap in but of course that cable it's tucked into the wire channel so we'll have to check in a second here the wires were such a mess because they're they're ridiculously long um so this is pb2 [Music] cuz the fan is hardly moving yeah I think you're probably right Striker okay so let's see if I go down here I I don't think that this is going to have yeah so that's not affecting it which I sort of figured okay so yeah let's turn this off again and then let's grab our multimeter and see uh shut down yes what alien say and labels can be incorrect best to probe oh yeah yeah okay well I don't think it's I don't think it's a mosfet issue then again I I think that now that we've swapped over ports I the fact that both of them are behaving the same way leads me to think it's a wiring issue so let's go like this let's not be so close Okay let me grab grab [Music] multimeter grab these guys all right it's awkward awkward angle let me bring you guys hold on this is so awkward I'm directly in line with the camera let's bring you guys over here like so try to get the cable chain out of your way there we go now let's try to swap this open this okay so try to think about what I can do here I guess I could check the issue is so this is going to be on this board um I can check let's see is there a pin out four so we're using XR bunker catalog um so this is going to be do burner it's going to be the two-piece with 5 volts yes [Music] yes uh is it Weir to imagine people sit in that sit in that camera most likely the fan yeah it's what I think it is too delar based off the Speed it's running it's probably um plugged in incorrectly so what I want to see here more info on the heart keyboards Mis what I'd like to see is if I can if I can probe one of these points um I guess I might need to go from this plug then okay so if we're looking at the plug we've got auxiliary you th Mis the Mr part fan so it's three the plug is like okay scroll up in live streams did you post all right one sec [Music] live streams live streams live streams how far up am I scrolling uh cyborg oh okay yeah sick all right this is what Delmar shared so uh Park coing Fan should be right there so second thank you that is super helpful okay so part coing is second from right so it's going to be this guy right here I'm just going to I don't know how we'll be able to see you probably won't be able to see this you're just going to just wait for it come freaking we're being a single pin it's really sticking Okay so we've got this going in here bear with me this kind of sucks getting the prong of the multim there we go yeah it's not that so what are we so what are we getting okay so that's that is it um it is not connected correctly but what is the connector for it then if that's not doing it okay so let's let's take things apart yeah basically what all I did was take the take the multimeter and touch this pin that we've been using for part cooling fan and then uh put the other end on continuity to the part cooling fan pin of the tool head board and there was no no continuity so it's something with the wiring itself see I can pop this guy off I wonder then you know what so this is this is the only thing I can think of I plug this into 5 volts this pin right here um so I wonder if this is what it is let's before I do anything else let's just try it with this I have a feeling that's what it is but that also kind of doesn't make sense because we're still getting 5 volts to the board because tap is working and tap's running off 5 volts so let's let's see this if you're looking for 24 volts uses a common rail so all labeled ports are negative did I wa one second then LED 5 volts ground so are we getting might need to take this out it's probably going to be easier to just completely remove this if we don't figure this this out shortly is here I will we'll move forward on getting tap set up because again everything else is still appearing to function fine it's it's literally just just our part cooling fan that's not responding God I need one second I need needle tweezers uh be careful here that tool head board uses a common to is a common five bolts in ground okay yeah if this doesn't uh if this isn't what's hooked up to the hot in fan then I'm just going to plug it back in and we're going to leave it for now until I have until I can figure out what the heck's going on I'm going to move there we go okay that was bigger pain than I thought it was going to be check your live Channel I shared a picture tone first what no we're printing today alien I I I committed to printing today it's really tricky working around the camera no five so 5 volts correct where did I put the connector so 5 volts going back in 5 volt so that's not the issue which I didn't think it was because tap is working the tap um board is working which should have the same 5 vol F so but it's not that okay Bo cables there no risk that it's affecting the hotend fan also I don't think so um I don't think so Elizabeth cuz the hot end fan appears to be working fine like it's it's powering on as it should it's responding to the hot end and to the hot and powering on so it doesn't it seems like it's isolated it seems like it's isolated to the layer cooling fan so I get these off this is tight there we go okay so what other wires do we have in here that are just hanging out let's see it's kind of a bummer because I did spend some time I did spend some time cleaning up these wires but here we go so we have extra wires I tucked them over here so let's see if either of these I think this one is the one I want to check it's possible that at the factory they can you get 24 line direct to the fan um 24 volt line directly to the fan check it tone from the hot end fan till you find the red wire that goes to it yeah that's that's what I'm planning on doing oh from the hot end fan tone from the hotend fan until you find the wire that goes to it well the hot in fan should be fine let me one sec let me let me check this really quick here one of these guys cuz these are our extra wires okay it doesn't appear to be that one more time it's tough to hold the it okay now it's not that so let's try this one not that either weird you guys yeah I saw it now I just saw it thanks for that okay let's try this again of course I turned it off okay still not that one okay still not either of those two uh do we check that the fan works well it is running even though it's at five bolts but should I unplug should I unplug the entire front plate and plug that and just bring it down and plug that directly in what's up G funny the the partk cooling fan it's always on uh but it's running super slow and it seems like it's getting like 5 Vols or something something so okay so here's what we've got we've got extra this says uh After Burner X end stop stealth burner auxiliary uh that's what one of these pins says G thank you very much for the gifted membership do you have I don't have multim uh multimeter leads with Clips unfortunately and then we've got uh one that has no label on it at least not a visible label let me see see if I follow it back a bit okay the other one says X and stop so two of them say x and stop um and then one of them is the crack so let's see let's see for fun here if I grab what size fan is it do we know I've got let's just grab another 24volt fan and rule out that the fan itself isn't the issue I'm sure I've got I'm sure I've got an extra fan or two somewhere here um just run 24 off from the spider board directly to your fan yeah I I would Pro oh drop stuff I would probably oh that's right it's a 5015 that's been cut up still think I've got one somewhere yeah what I'm going to do is is try to find a 5015 verify that the port on the spider board's working then physically plug it into the port that this one's in and if that works I know it's the actual um it's a fan running off is the fan running off of a 5volt end stop I don't think so because I checked continuity on the two end stop cables and it didn't seem like it I am using a tool head board yeah check the second board check the second board board in stealth burner Oh you mean the front board just make sure that it's actually getting yeah that's not a bad idea either okay let's oh the journey okay let's it's not a bad idea oops that's overhead side view so let's actually make sure that there's not an issue with the board everything's turned off yes yes cool and you got the plus and negative yeah the Harnish this tool head board comes from a third- party supplier and had mislabeled and reverse crimps of the wazu at one stage yeah well the part of the issue too is is that I swapped this isn't the board that came with it this is the one from shammy the board that came with it didn't have a 5vt um it didn't have a 5vt section or it didn't have five volts um for for the for tap and so we swapped the printer powers on with an ADC error we still stuck okay so let's verify that Park cooling fan where it's soldered okay coming around so we've got LED and we've got hotend fan and we've got part cooling fan so ground they should all share a common ground which I believe is working yes and then five oh wait a minute user user error wait wait wait wait yeah user error so I should have yeah that was on me that's the issue I don't know I did this off stream I did this off Stream So it it was me the this fan should be wired to 24 volts and signal and I have it wired to 5 volts and ground so I must I must at some point have moved things around can we get oh my god let's get can we get some Fs in the chat please we need some Fs in the chat that was definitely my bad yeah I've got I've got absolutely nobody to blame but myself that was it's funny cuz it was I did it off stream had we done it on stream I feel like somebody would have caught me doing that and been like hey that's not right no that was all on me I I remember when the board came in I was like I'll just get caught up thank you for the banana zombie all righty then so let's let's desolder this I'm thankful that nothing um nothing bad happened and then it was just again permanently on but it does it it does at least show that it was getting 5 volts which is sort of what we were speculating and and also explains why a signal wasn't controlling it thank you for the 19 months I wish we had a uh um I wish we had a uh I I might need to get that okay so we are are 40 minutes in we haven't touched tap but we've solved this so the good news is in theory once I get this fixed we plug it back in move the port to the correct slot we should be on tap um so let me grab this let me desolder grab the ground wire oh come on let's go on this okay good call I think it was delmare Delmar um that that said to check the connection between the two so I if I could if I could I would give like uh you know 10 points to Gryffindor or whatever whatever house um oh not in Focus probably cuz it's on autofocus let's see no it's on manual um maybe like that okay so I'm going to put a tiny tiny bit of BLX on the pads and Tin them and then solder them and then we'll wrap this up okay A little bit of flex little bit of so I can have it invisible without covering it with my hand all right I mean I asked about this when you were probing the toolhead board but I guess I got missed it's hard it's hard to um it's hard to catch everything bearded especially when I'm trying like like it's one thing on a stream when things are just going smoothly which does happen every once in a while um but yeah when I'm trying to troubleshoot I'm not going to be able to show you guys this or like have it on camera but I'll show it after uh when I'm trying to troubleshoot something and also read chat it's really difficult to catch everything I do my best but come on here we go okay we are good clean and slaughtering iron tip so all I did was move the two wires from 5vt in ground which is not where they were supposed to be to 24 volt in signal so now we should be should be back in business I well I'm happy it's it was that and not a damaged um you know damaged Hardware or something like that it was just me user error yeah usually usually I know chat helps a ton I don't get me wrong there are plenty of times where chat helps but there's also plenty of times where uh I read chat and then get completely on like a side quest and I'm like how did we get here okay I am super happy about that let's move our little bit of solder out of the way and somehow I misplaced nope it's on the bed of the printer hey shammy I only have a quick moment have family in for early Thanksgiving hey thank you so much shammy um let's do here air horn thank you shammy everyone say hi shammy I don't know if you saw but we we were troubleshooting a fan the the park coing fan was on and not responding to uh any control from Clipper and it ended up being that when I got in the two-piece uh stealth burner board from you even though I wasn't on stream so there was no distractions well that's not true we have a baby but I I somehow managed to incorrectly solder the the part cooling fan to 5vt in ground instead of um instead of the 24volt signal we were supposed to but thank you very much jamy have a wonderful Thanksgiving I appreciate you stopping by okay so let's not screw up placing these backs so I'm just going to make sure that it's hard to see but the pins are going into the socket correctly uh and also the wires aren't being pinched more than they need to [Music] be one [Music] second I did uh I did that the first time that makes me feel a little bit better I'm sure I'm not the only one um but yeah I was I was losing my let me one sec let me get a closer look so I can make sure I'm doing this correctly I was losing my mind for a second there okay that looks good everything is aligned and then the longer ones go through the bottom like that we should be back in business well that was fun to troubleshoot that's not at all what I thought it was I I absolutely thought it was just a um issue with the Vic board all right yeah I guess I should have figured that the 5 volts probably wasn't the issue down below because again the LEDs if I'm not mistaken are pulling from 5 volts as are the tap okay okay that's tight enough for now let me close this guy back up our little Batmobile wing and then I'm going to to uh I'm going to plug oops that's not the right size driver uh oh come on uh easy fix at least you did not have to wait for yeah that's true uh having done several printers already you'll be fine Stephen I I think the key thing is just take your time um I mean we're we're really good at doing that on this this channel streams taking your time but yeah rushing rushing and also on the V the first V zero I did most of the issues I had was when I should have called it for the night on the build and I didn't it was like yeah I'm you know you get kind of excited um that was where the issues happen so when you get tired or anything or you're distracted don't continue um you know but I you'll be fine you'll be you'll be totally fine hey what's up tun I got distracted by no worries you missed uh you missed some fun troubleshooting okay so this is our uh we did also though we did need to move these jumpers regardless so there was some fan stuff but I'm putting this fan back into its initial Port which is right here uh right here and so we will have to really quickly go back into our config and uh change the pin back to what it was but let's go and power this up uh if I am not mistaken based off what we just did this should no longer turn on instantly because it should not be getting any voltage and uh hopefully I didn't change anything else so fingers crossed so don't build a printer yeah don't exactly okay all right I'm fingers crossed everyone 3 two 1 beautiful we see nothing is happening and that is exactly what we want to see one of the few times in a build where I I want nothing to happen whatsoever our fan is not moving we see no smoke we see nothing um so that's a beautiful thing and we are going to go back over here and we're going to look at our not tap not you where did they put this um here we go okay so we moved it back so pa14 is what we need to rename it to so as soon as this loads we'll do that uh config printer. CFG okay pa14 p14 save and restart okay so if that worked then we should if I turn on the part cooling fan I hear it I can hear it already I can hear it already yeah it's working 24 volts and it's controllable we did it oh yeah so so couple a couple funnies uh which we have a lot of times in the build um I tried checking for continuity on two points with my multimedia uh my multimeter off which was fun and then the issue ended up being that on the so the heart K board is a two-piece board right you have the the the front board that goes behind the um 5015 blower and you have the main board that it plugs into well when I soldered the connectors for the park cooling hotend uh Park cooling Hoten fan and neopixel or the little yeah I think it's the neopixel i i incorrectly soldered the park cooling fan it needed to go to 24 volts in ground and I I no 24 volts in signal and I soldered it to 5 volts in ground I'm thankful that that's what I soldered it to and not something else that could have destroyed um something in electronics but that's what the issue was so yeah we're back in business which is awesome so yeah I'm happy it's it's fun I don't mind trouble troubleshooting can be really rewarding when you get to the other side of it but there's definitely times where you're just like hammering at the same thing and you're not getting anywhere and that's when it becomes incredibly frustrating so this is where we are with um everything it's it's working we're homing correctly uh thermister fans all that stuff's good um tap is tap is installed and you can probably see the can you see the red light where the cable chain is right here there's a little red light when I pull it up it is turning blue so it's triggering tap which is a good thing hey Steve is here Steve thank you so much for 10 gifted memberships man uh everyone say hi Steve happy early Thanksgiving let's go man Steve did you see Steve would have laughed we'll do we'll do a a standing ovation did you see the whoopsies Steve I did two things uh that were Silly in this stream the the I'm only going to repeat it one more time cuz I everyone's like he keep saying the same thing um so the everything's been working correctly on this printer except the partk cooling fan is always on it's not controllable and it seems like it's moving very slowly well I discovered the jumpers were set to 12 volts so we corrected that by switching them to 24 volts um and then it it still wasn't we we changed ports and it was still was always on and not controllable so then we were probing things with the multimeter checking continuity and I was like yeah no continuity here and in frame you can see the multimeter and I had turned it off and forgot I had turned it off so I was trying to get continuity with the multimer multimeter off uh so that was the first thing and then the second thing delmare uh a couple I guess someone else had recommended as well but I saw delmare he said to before I swap fans or anything check for continuity between the the um part that the P the fan is connected to and where it connects to the to the secondary board since it's the heart case two-piece and when I took it off we very quickly saw that I had soldered the fan for the partk cooling to 5 volts in ground instead of 24 volts in signal so it's been yeah it's definitely a um this isn't supposed to be a standup uh comedy stream but there's certainly been some good laughs um but anyways it's working now we've got 24 volts to the fan it's controllable and we are good so now we are moving on to tap um and the issue currently with tap is that I believe it was Delmar that mentioned is that it should where's our let's see here let's go to where where on here I'm trying to remember fluid is under T oh it's under tune okay so um for end stops we've got Z showing triggered when it shouldn't show triggered so both Z and probe are tied together and then when we lift it up to where it should be triggered it's showing well open I guess for that so we need to invert we need to invert logic uh so we are going to start by going under the configuration to printer. CFG uh just realiz something you use stealth burner board use 24 volts on the PS2 so jumpers oh that's funny Napp and you are right that's also I didn't make a change at least you didn't W yeah it could have been so much worse I'm I'm thankful that that was the whoopsy I did and not some else it's just funny though because I did that off stream and I did it off stream to just get caught up because I was swapping boards and if I had done it on stream someone probably would have caught me and been like hey you're you're doing that wrong but that's what I get for trying to get ahead um okay so let's go what did I say stepper Z so we need to uh position end stop position end stop pin so we want to is it exclamation point [Music] then let's see if that does it that's a pull-up the that's a pull-up resistor right if I'm not mistaken I think that's what that is let's let's flip this see what it does oops no that's not right what what is um it's just my formatting right or is it it's direction that I goofed on what I do let me look again uh no it's D so directions I screwed up that's why my bad it's the direction pin no end stop pin that was right what is the you only need to change probe pin oh you're I think Striker Striker you're right right because I'm going to be using I'm GNA be switching endstop pin over to Virtual end stop so it's going to use what's in probe so let's see if we go down to probe uh let's see I think you're right with that so pin yeah let's try this let's invert you um and let's see what that does for our our probe we'll do Z [Music] after okay so probe is not probe is open which is what it should be now I'm pulling up on on tap and it should say triggered yeah now I'm releasing it now it should say open cool okay so let's go now through voron tap through the uh updates so it says under the Z stepper block you want to comment out your position end stop and change your end stop pin so let's do these things now let's go under config printer. CFG and we're going down to z z z z z z so it's said to uncomment position position so position end stop we're not doing and then we're changing end stop pin yeah that's why we don't need it anymore because we're swapping out endstop pin for a virtual endstop okay uh any plans on yes absolutely uh I just got in a stealth burner canbus board from Big Tree TCH as as as well as the wiring harness for the existing stealth burner canus board so we're going canus on both the Trident as well as the ldo 2.4 so yeah we're this um we're going to run this stock for probably 30ish days uh so I can test out the printer as is and um put together a video for the kit but yeah then we're going with uh Zol canbas and we're going to play around with this thing absolutely uh the stealth burner it's it's the the one they sent was the 2209 hey what's going on digital Dragon happy almost Thanksgiving okay uh let me I'm somebody check to make sure I'm doing everything right so I don't get distract we did that um and change your end stop pin we did that be sure to also remove any automatically St saved stepper Z position end stop value that may be found at the bottom of your printer. C file stepper Z position uh is there anything like that in here I don't think there is since this is a new build SE for the no I don't I don't think there's anything like that um update your homing position if you use safy home let's see do we have safy home in here safe yeah we do um change the location to the center of the bed so uh it's going to be 150 150 since this is a 300 mm build plate if you have homing override make sure that it moves the tool head to the center of the bed Hey Stephen um let's see what am I missing it's it's the 20209 yeah they said they didn't have the 2040 available and I said that's fine no worries I've insell several at 229 boards let me know if you have any questions sounds like a plan I'm probably going to do one of them on stream and one of them will be a video on on can boot um no no I'm sorry on can canbridge it will include uh what's it called it's not can boot anymore they call it um um boom not Boomerang what's I can't think of the rename good luck with the c the tiny J no I don't have to they've swapped it out or they have like a wiring um they sent me a wiring harness type thing so I won't have to do that I tried crimping one or two of them um after chat told me there's no way I'd be able to do it and I'm stubborn and you're right there's no way hey truy let's see uh under stepper Z end stop pin should be endstop pin prob Z virtual end stop wait did I not do that under stepper Z end stop pin didn't I just do that [Music] stey yeah we did that end stop pin Proby virtual yeah we've got that catapult that's what it's called yeah yeah it's it's can boot in my head it's hard for me to switch switch uh I locked it in especially CU I spent so much time um tumbling tumbling through it hey what's up iconic welcome welcome okay so what have we done now we've did safy home it says if you have homing override I don't know if we do since again this is the brand new config homing uh uh over we don't have a homing override so we don't have to worry about that remember with tap your nozzle is the probe so your probe offset and probe value should be zero okay so let's do that probe the probe section um no there we go okay so X offset is already zero y offset also needs to be zero cool we'll need to do that add tabs activate gcode this gcode will allow you to probe cold but will also prevent you from probing with a nozzle at printing temperature to try to ah cool this goes in the probe section of your config neat okay so we will just add this underneath here okay let's restart and see how this goes uh this is printed tap this is printed tap we have um I've got in some cool stuff I got um I got in the the chotic labs tap we have here as well and then we also I got in the FC carbon fiber tap so have a couple we can play around with at some point tum yeah tumbling is the shouldn't need homing override if safy home yeah okay we don't have it do you see Everest frame I think at least more rigid than a 10 foot Ender I didn't post it if you post it right now or in a minute here I will check on stream because I got off stream last week and went to check and I didn't see a tag I didn't see a post anywhere so tag me somewhere in the modbot Discord and I will look at it in a moment here I fought for a week to get a 20 uh 2240 board printing never could get it 229 dropped interesting I'm excited for the Micron build so I got to use the stealth press again when did you build when did you build one zombie okay so in theory since we're using virtual end stop I believe is that a nope that's Theory I believe that the so yeah both open now they should both be closed yep both open okay so this is working so do we do I just home it now for the first time I I have not homed this printer do we just home it I'm imagining the steps I'm thinking is we need to home it then we need to um do I need to no yeah I I I would need to hot when I'm setting the Z offset with tap I still need to uh warm up the bed to at least temp right yeah let's try it this is the first I'm going to be ready with the uh I'm going to be ready with the O crap emergency yeah yeah I'm going to do that just in case it things crash so all right let's hope for hope for the best this is our first homing ever you need to heat the hot end to 150 if you have I don't there's been nothing uh the nozzle is is brand new okay so I should let it expand level the uh level the bed a little bit is it that cred oh wow it is very crooked okay one second let me um does that look a little better it's kind of hard I'm so close to the printer that looks better to me let's try it let's try it's going to look I'm using a like a wide angle lens to capture big printer small area um so it's going to look more crooked than it is let's start with just homing this and see how it goes all right everybody fingers crossed I'm going to have my hand on um the emergency so one two 3 it did it it did it it did it that's exciting I would try to stop it the first time with hand oh I get what you're saying yeah I could have triggered it beforehand it did it though that was great um so I think let's do a let's attempt to do a quad Gantry level right should we do probe accuracy actually I'm I'm thinking about maybe we should do probe accuracy test for fun um let's see on first time check yeah that was um I was pretty confident I I knew it was triggering right uh Z tilt yeah let's try let's do a probe accuracy really quick for fun and then we'll tram the bed and then we'll do a z um the offset and then we'll do a print and somewhere in this we're going to open up a giveaway in 26 minutes we'll open up the polymaker uh polym maker giveaway so uh steper motor check I'm going to show let's see end stop check XY homing check motor config we should be good on the only one I didn't check I think was the extruder but well if it spits the wrong way we'll know uh when I load filament Define z0 points ZN stop pin ZN stop location Pro testing uh when it's far from the bed query probe we're fine on that the metal object we don't need to do that probe accur okay so yeah just probe accuracy okay let's see how it goes hey Happy Happy pre- Thanksgiving probe accurate how many does it do if you don't do 50 oh does it 10 times I'll do let's just see what it does with 10 let's let's see what it does okay uh so I'm going to probe accuracy we'll do we'll meet I'll meet you in the middle you said uh samples we'll do 25 samples and then let's go side view and hit enter I would do more like 100 or two to break things in all right we've got probe accuracy minimum negative 0125 uh no that's maximum minimum 0 Z range 03 with a standard deviation of 01241 that looks pretty damn good to me the humming speed does seem fast doesn't it I I agree with that um it seems like it's hitting it pretty hard um config printer. CFG uh homing speed 50 lower it to 20 25 uh it will lower with time seems reasonable do we think we should lower the Homing speed a little bit I it does seem like it's it's hitting kind of fast I I don't I haven't used tap so I mean I'm using powder coded Pi it's it's very you know it's not going to be damage 50 is blistering fast you're probably not bad Max five I just shared it okay 50 is fine for tap okay okay homing speed is important it homes Z at 50 okay so Aaron people are saying things like Let's do let's for fun hold on here I'll do 25 oops let's cut this in half well to be fair it wasn't intended to have um it doesn't have uh slow it down for normal use okay we'll do it in half for now uh how does tap actually work so it's a um there's there's a small linear rail inside of the back of the tool head and there is a Optical sensor so the nozzle itself goes into the bed and the bed raises the entire tool head on that tiny linear rail until that Optical sensor is triggered so in theory I mean that's that's really how it works uh Boop tap I did 10 I've never seen anyone home at well it it's intended to have the inductive Pro right that's what this profile is built for you can do a second homing speed I think mine are also okay all right so everyone's okay all right we'll go a little bit slower then let's do I'll do I'm going to do 15 we're going to do a 15er here cuz we got to we got to go a little a little fast but let's try Okay so let's home all let's also change the track we need some eight bit it felt a little fast for me as well when it was going to the tool Hood I thought it was moving a little bit quick okay so let's do why don't we have um interesting we don't have um yeah so the plus side of having it like that is that if it doesn't like you don't have to set well there's I guess there's a the offset but it's there's only one point so like with the 2.4 that I have you have the nozzle that hes at one point and then you have clicky that basically gets grabbed so you have two different measurements and one of the issues I ran into was the nozzle homing and it causing there was some slight a little bit of filament on the nozzle even I think even slightly warmed up which caused the measurement to be off and so then my first layer was off so you're you're essentially removing the need for an XY offset because the nozzle becomes the probe in theory um and it sort of simplifies things down to just one point versus two measurements oh you kept the nozzle and stop on the 2.4 on the 2.4 I do have the nozzle un stop does an up down not affect layer height no so there's magnets that hold it in place so that way it's not moving around benefit you have Z offset but when you change nozzles you don't oh yeah that's also another thing too if you change nozzles and your nozzles are slightly higher or lower it doesn't matter because it's using the nozzle and basing your Z offset based off that nozzle so that's another plus as well okay so something that I just noticed is under the macros we don't have a um the Tilt macro which is odd because I thought I saw it under config so why is it not showing up under macros uh unless it's not enabled but I thought that it was prob be touch heater fan safy home zel why why don't we have so it looks like they're both here both bed mesh and zil are here it's oh it's under Tools it's it's a um oh okay so it's it's a I'm not super familiar with fluid compared to main cell so that's it's a me thing it sounds like so he's saying look under Tools uh G could preview is there tune config system where am I looking [Music] here look for the drop down in the tool section where's the tool section am I [Music] I'm it's probably right in front of my face um it was right on the line that said tool page [Music] up console jobs history tune config system red buttons for direction oh it's right here yep I've used these before four too all right everybody passes the test okay so it's thank you everybody um let's move this okay let's try [Music] zil feel like I can make that's not that doesn't look right what is it doing is this normal like as far as I this doesn't seem I thought it was just going to probe three points whoa points are reverse okay yeah that was not right so [Music] the order is wrong it's reversed okay so what do you I need to correct for this configuration printer. CFG oh you guys can't see this also really quick I'm going to check on tangent engineering's printer because I said I was going to in Discord so give me one sec I'm going to pull it up it's in chat I don't see it is it in the live stream channel I still don't see it where are you posting it Ro your project oh my God okay I found it here it is this is the this is the monster printer for printing rocket [Music] Parts it's wild yeah that's awesome that is a super you said what's the size to this [Music] thing okay so the reason why I think it screwed up right it was trying to correct beyond what it can correct I think that was the the issue in the end um but so if I go down to zelt you're saying the order is incorrect cuz I thought I've ran zelt before on the Mercury and it it probes three points only and this looked like it was probing six points uh B Mash detail here we go so okay so that definitely is not right so what's let me see here if I go not planer printing let me see if I can find really quick here so FC uh no I was under under also need to make sure stepper z's are in the right spot oh it has the 2.4 points in it did you stepper Buzz the Z I don't know that I did we didn't stepper Buzz Z did we no we didn't we did we did homing okay so this is this is because I thought that I had checked um the config that was flashed on this is 2.4 and I thought I had corrected the things that made it a 2.4 but it's not doesn't seem to be the case so let me really quickly here if I go GitHub um cybor one second here uh Bor Trident there's the 300 config so let me go back down to where that is this doesn't look right though this is not this is still not right is it I think it lists four point coordinance wish all the best hey thanks thanks for hanging out DJ in either case the z z tilt is is all is wrong make sure stepper Z make sure stepper Z is front left Z1 is rear and Z2 is front is front okay let's let's do okay let's do a few things here so I'm going to go back to here and I'm going to Let's stepper Buzz to make sure that our steppers are named correctly so we're going to not emergency stop we're going to turn the motors off so I can drop this a little bit by hand yeah we never did that Steve has a good point we I checked on direction of ab and then we had issues with the end stops and had to end the stream and I never did check this I think they are named correctly but let's do a stepper Buzz um so if we go initial startup and we go stepper Buzz or stepper there we go uh Trident you guys can't see what I'm doing I just realized okay so we need stepper Zed which is going to be for Trident I think Steve just said front left yeah okay so let's see if this does front left okay so let's do this oh I didn't good help if I was on the right tab here we go it's not it's this okay well I'm glad we checked that so it is not set correctly so stepper Z is going to be front right when it should be front left um you think it's easiest to just physically move it Steve yeah I'm going to check I want to check to see let's see if Z1 is the right one so Z1 should be the back stepper let's see if Z1 is correct yeah so Z1 is correct so I need to swap front left and front right are the ones that are inverted not leaving power on okay so let's shut down yes turning off Okay so we've got XY extruder then we need to swap out you it's a good call Steve cuz I I assumed that they were going to be in the right but they were not that is there you are there okay let's power this back on and also make sure the first move is down positive D Okay Okay so we've got at least we know that the drivers match steppers as far as naming goes so now we'll see if it goes down [Music] first hey we've got how many people are here 157 and 59 likes if you haven't hit the like button do it let's get let's get to 100 [Music] likes okay so Force refresh reconnect so let's see now if we go with stepper Z it should be front left and it should go down first yeah cool they went down first while you're waiting you're wait you're probe points are still not right yeah I'm going to I'm going to copy it from whatever Aaron posted so I'm going to post a minute ago just to grab them from the official um the official Trident repository which is a great idea but I'll use I'll use Erin uh Z1 is going to be back then which we already know we checked that so I don't we'll do it again what the hell okay it's going in the right direction as well okay and the final one which is going to be Z2 should be our front right and let's make sure it goes down first looking good okay awesome awesome so let me really quickly here [Music] grab uh where is it live streams um question I've got for yeah I think that Aon yours is for a 350 isn't it cuz your point one of your points is 350 by8 this is only a 300 mm um unless I'm wrong and that's what it's supposed to be UNC comment for no it looks like it looks like you're right it's supposed to be 350 uh that is the positions how is that okay Z tilt and points all right I'll copy it over okay so we are swapping out Z tilt nope is there not a that is not how you is it because I didn't click in here I thought this would be faster there we go hey what's up ballistic uh Z positions and oh are we're the lead screw gotcha okay thank you I've only done this once and it was a while ago with the Mercury build so that that makes sense then although the build area doesn't get above 300 mm these are the size okay these are the Z positions so that way it knows where the actual is it where the motors are or where the pivot Points are I would imagine it's where the pivot Points are which isn't exactly where the motors are it's where the little bearing balls at okay so let's save and restart and we should be good which is the major uh in parenthesis should so let's try homing this again come all yes Steve is it is it the lead screws that those those are or is it the bearings I thought it was the Pivot Point you were trying to get um I thought yeah I thought it was the Pivot Point you were trying to get for those measurements uh but is it is it that or is the lead screws where the motors are okay so let's try now Z tilt adjust I'm going to be ready with the emergency still feels kind of aggressive with the uh speeds lead screw location the yeah so it's the bearing pivot point I I think we had this conversation possibly when we were doing or when I was doing the Mercury build the probe speed you think the probe speed's too fast right it feels aggressive it's yeah okay it's it's I feel the same way it feels like it's really aggressive on the tool head so I'm I'm not disagreeing again it's because it's intended to have the indu this config so I should have changed that let's well let's change the let's change the speed and let's redo it then we'll get our Z offset and then we're going to get a print going okay so probe uh speed 50 again so let's go I'm going to go with 10 Let's do let's do 10 let's also change home to 10 I'm going to we'll be good see speed lift speed 20 what's the lift oh what was the lift speed [Music] zombie did you save the change after you change the Homing speed I did yeah I did hey what's up naso okay let's let's try this again [Music] oh we don't want to see this we want to see this also we probably don't want to see the printer such a curved angle that feels better right that feels slower to me uh lift speed is what it does after it touches I think it's normally slow yeah I think that's okay that L that looked much better 2.4 Li speed is 150 which is nice yeah it's fast Li speed I can probably increase but let's just get this sort of solid uh let's do tilt Z adjust still feels kind of aggressive to me it's better it's definitely better but I still think I still think I might go yeah I mean it's working what did you set it to this is 10 this is uh this is a lift or Pro for the prob speed it's 10 now Steve minus set to eight okay you knowed they include a 2.4 wiring diagram and some of the wiring I've watched two three trid builds where that's happened different K interesting that's weird I I haven't seen it before this is the first time I've seen it Steve you said you run seven I might leave it at 10 for now the other thing I'm curious about is I don't see where is where is um where's the bed mesh macro stored so we got Z tilt motor's off or is there not is there not a macro built in I would do probe five and lift 10 what is rotation distance set on Z steppers uh it's probably aggressive because it's probably set for um rotation distance is set to four it's probably aggressive because of again the fact that it's the freaking 2.4 let me see what they have set for their let's see stepper Z no rotation four that's what they have S are those two start lead screws it looks like they are two start lead screws yeah Steve they're two start lead screws this is this is the cyborg config file this is their Trident this is the one that it should have had on here do a quick Z movement and check with the ruler just to make sure you mean just move it like 10 mil uh okay I've got ruler rough I mean it's not real straight but I can I be able to tell so let's go close home 10 mil um the [Music] increase it looks right Steve yeah it's right it's TL I just I just did um I mean I just held the ruler up to this block that the that rides the bed up and down and posts it a couple times and it did 10 millimet each time yeah that's the see the confusing thing is and I I I messaged them a pretty strong not it wasn't a rude message but like hey out of the things that were sort of off with this kit the config at the end like the electrical and the config is the big like like if I like this kit was sent as a build for the stream and it's frustrating I could only imagine you know again someone that purchased this and they're buying a kit to sort of get to the end goal a little bit quicker like this would be very very frustrating so I I let them know like hey the other things were small things this is a big deal like this cannot be happening so um yeah you know clipper yeah I was going to watch the little stream couch S 3 hours yeah okay yeah exactly I'd be I mean I would be incredibly frustrated I mean it's been a little frustrating don't get me wrong if it if we hadn't turned things on like if you go back to last week's stream when we started the DC wiring and I discover that things were not right I was getting very frustrated I I you know it is what it is and we worked through it and I'm happy that we were able to get through it but like that can't be happening like that cannot be happening it's it's a big deal the wre I think the wiring harness was incorrect the config was definitely incorrect the diagram like it just um is it giveaway time it is okay I'm going to post the giveaway Link in chat and then we're going to heat up the bed I'm just going to heat it up to 60 let's get this actually going right now I'm going get the bed heating to 60 Celsius so we can get our Z offset and then we're going to wait no the bed mesh we need to figure out um we can still do is the offset first so let's get bed heating up and let's go send and F I do think that cybor is going to make it right like if someone had reached out and I think that after my feedback they're going to make it right but it's super unfortunate that this is what it was like when I got it right like yeah um yeah I mean I wasn't it's hard to get me real upset like usually if I'm real upset there's hunger and sleep deprived or heat are like the three things you combine those three things and something frustrating and I can definitely snap but okay so I'm going to post Link in the link is posted I'm going to pin it as soon as I can in a moment here where are we at likewise 91 likes and looks like 57 viewers if you have not hit the like button let's do let's get to 125 before the giveaway pin message put the deck plate on I can do that I kind of want to turn off the printer before we do that let's which I will do in a moment on camera Okay so we've got this heating up now the thing I'm not certain of is why isn't there a why isn't there a Bed mesh uh macro I thought that by default in Clipper if there is a bed mes section oh is there not oh there is a bed mes section I thought if there was a bed mesh section it would it would appear [Music] some people don't run a bed mesh I think it's in the tuning oh is it again this is a it could be a me thing because this is jobs console tune ah okay it's it's a me thing let me really quickly move my photo out of the way um camera there we go it's it's in I'm I'm used to it being on the front page in main sale you'll need to fix the relative reference index that was depreciated was that under bed mesh I didn't see it nope okay so just saying just remove it or I can just I'll just instead of deleting things I'll just comment it [Music] out oh it got replaced check a more recent born config I think it's in there okay let's see if we just go let's just go Trident see if if it's in the Trident GitHub oops I forget that trident is lots of things in my mind Trident is uh I'm going to put my picture back on too but in my mind Trident is boron but it's also a lot of other things uh firmware okay these are updated two weeks ago so I feel quite confident in uh let's go wrong bed Mash nope is it not in interesting maybe it's not in here maybe it's in a different one spoiler alert there's no bed mesh in config interesting okay uh bed level support bed mesh doesn't the trid it not come stock with a probe no it comes with a it comes with a um inductive probe with Boop I removed it completely I don't think I run it in a lot of my bed meshes to be perfectly honest with you so I don't know that it's needed um either I I don't oops control C is there anything I think that we here we go depreciated use the zero reference point option zero oh zero let's see Zero reference position an optional XY coordinate that specifies the location on the bed where Z equals z when this option is specified the mesh will be offset so wait wait an optional XY cordinate that specifies the location on the bed where Z equals z when this option is specified the mesh will be offset so that zero Z adjustments occur at this location default is no I don't see why we would need that the default is no zero reference I don't I don't think it's needed I'm going to I'm going to leave it off um I'm going to leave it off I don't I don't think it's needed gotcha okay okay let's let's give this a go so let's save um save and restart because I updated that set our bed back to 60 and let's home all let's try to do this I still don't fully understand I still don't fully understand it if you're if I mean maybe it's because maybe for setups where you're not homing at Center already I I don't I don't fully understand um okay let's do tune calibrate although I think I should have done a tilt yeah I was going to say I think I should have done a tilt first I killed it we're going to restart it okay so let's try this third time the charm well we're doing we're doing a home a z tilt a mesh a z offset and then we're printing I said we're printing today and that's what we're doing what's she say none better to squirrel a squirrel than yeah my one weakness um it's not true one of one of many uh okay so bed is heating up again that is good um uh we have homed right we just did that now we are Z tilting I think I could explain better when the zero reference point is you okay sounds good I feel like me and you have talked about this at one point too but I will absolutely take the refresher probably drink some water okay reach probe points tolerances it says toleran is2 it doesn't seem it doesn't seem great I feel like I have it set oh I feel like I have it set much lower on the Mercury 2 tolerance doesn't sound like I thought I was 0 let me see if we go under Z tilt yeah Point 2 is not good right I was like that sounds way worse than um what I remember running what's what is standard what are what are we what should I set it to I feel like I had it set to 0 Z okay Point yeah I was going to say I thought I had two zeros in front of it on um okay retry tolerance yeah 0 2 is what they have at set to you by default we'll do 02 for now 005 075 all right all right all right we'll do 075 yeah I'd rather get it as plat as possible um prior to doing the probe yeah we'll do 0.0075 I didn't see it the first time we did or the first couple times we did the mesh so I I would have called it out so I guess third time is not the charm I think 01 is what I run on the Mercury but the Mercury also has a twisted frame because of the Ender uh frame I used and I didn't do a great job I didn't do a job at all so let's try let's see if it does this Lisa hey uh thank you for 17 months Jack Jack sighting uh pets for pets for the monkey they are getting baths very very soon Aaron's got a few more days off next week than normal and it's on our oh did a great that was easy yeah tolerance uh range was 0625 Toler Point cool all right we're good um there might be a jack sighting there probably will be okay now let's do our our um let's do our calibration there we go uh ldo frame ldo frame when uh Dutch you tell me and I'll order it right away I want it I want to I want to swap the Merc to that to that uh enclosed setup [Music] Stephen stepen modbot return Merc converting mercs might work out by the time we move we both got Merks we both need to convert converting Merks water cooling easy I'm hoping it'll be easier um hoping it'll be easier once we're moved in the new place also I I'm pretty sure I told you but my parents are moving out here um sometime mid next year it'll be split between California and here but they should be out here for probably five or six months out of the year so it'll be much easier because even if aon's at work I can say hey like you know Grandma Grandpa can you watch Jack Jack okay so as soon as this is done we're going to do our little Z offet and then we're going to slice also what time is it 2:46 if you have not uh there is a give giveway link posted in the chat and uh yeah we're going to be giving away a spool of polymaker filament in roughly 15 minutes got to love the grandparents Child Care yeah they came out and visited um they lefted last Thursday morning but they were out for a week and it was so much fun we took Jack I told you guys took Jack Jack to the aquarium and it was a blast uh okay so very is. three that doesn't feel like it's fantastic but it's also not awful feel like it's not great but I mean it's it's a third of a mill uh are you sure you want to do stuff with water with M Army we know how it didn't go with that po power supply I'll wear I'll wear um yes it's all right we're going to leave it like this I'm also going to be doing uh looks like the left gansi Extrusion needs to go up a bit yeah I'm also going to be running Camp um I'm also going to be running Camp so I'm not going to be taking the entire mes into account so a lot of times it's not even going to have much of an effect on the entire thing so the range will be way smaller but for now we're going to we're going to leave this um okay so let's go under the voron initial startup last thing we need to do or one of the last things we need to do is our probe uh ZN stop location we're good on probe testing we're good on probe accuracy we're good on we do need a p tune I'm going to run that after um because I'm going to enclose this thing soon we did tilt the offset okay uh V1 and Trident initial you did not run P2 set your 245 this is not this is not what we want though with um with tap right we don't we don't need I mean normally You' want the hot end hot but because we haven't ran anything through this we probably don't but I also should probably hot tighten this nozzle which hasn't been done so let's do okay let's do a couple things here let's drop Zed let's go down 50 is it prober end stop calibrate I think it's we have a hey thank you thanks Jerry you too okay so let's quickly here I want to heat up heat up the um hot end cuz I I haven't we haven't hot tighten the nozzle and I don't I'm not convinced from Factory that it was uh hot tightened well let me see I think this little I think this little guy got I do pro okay prob calibrate yeah let's Heat this up at least to like 250 real quick here uh that's a cool I don't know this was what was installed they pre- flashed the they pre- flashed the orange pie at factory um cybor so I don't know I don't know what theme this is or or really much about it gotcha okay prob calibrate we are heating up what are we going to print that's that's the next thing on my mind what are we going to print something quickish is there anything uh it's almost Thanksgiving is there anything holiday holiday like that's not a super long [Music] print zombie you're not allowed to answer that question any everybody everybody other than zombie what should we print anything seasonal maybe yeah zombie a banana I just noticed the chains did you mention that oh I didn't no um so Steve noticed that I did the cable chains I think it was for X right was it X Steve I believe it was the X cable chains are the ends are incorrect on mine I should have them swapped and the way Steve basically explained it to me is that I think it's the fixed one the fixed one can't pivot as much or the fixed one can't it's something okay both of them are incorrect perfect so the ends on the cable chains are set in a specific way that it's going to be producing the least amount of strain on the cables inside of the cable chain so if you're building this and you're watching this the ends of my cable chains should be swapped I'm not going to change it because we're going to go canbus in like 30ish days but if you are not going canbus and you're sticking with the umbilical and the cable chains the ends of the the ends of the cable chains the attachment points basically they they matter they matter because the one that's going to be pivoting more is going to be putting more stress on the um the wires inside of it which you don't want because it can you know cut through or cause uh cause damages in your wires yeah Steve Steve noticed that and I it's funny because I I paid attention to that when I was installing them and still somehow screwed it up so okay tightening tightening cool that's fine let's cool down the hot [Music] end yeah I I Steve gave me a a nicer visual representation but just the thing to note is that the direction of the ends of the cable chains matters it's not just about looks they're they're because one's fixed one let me see let show arms here let's go uh Sony here we go one of the ends is fixed one of them has a swivel point the one with the swivel point is going to be able to bend more and put more strain onto the wires so I believe the way Steve explained it was the one with the pivot point is the one that you want to be having the least amount of regular bending these are not technical terms but hopefully it makes sense pay attention to the pictures of the end pieces of the cable chain to not prematurely wear out the wires running through them I think I did it yeah the one that's on the bar should be the fixed one and the one the opposite of what I did okay so we're cooling down we're at 158 we've got how much longer on the giveaway 7 minutes left on the giveaway and we've got 104 entries nice what are our likes what do we at likewise ooh 119 119 let's get let's get let's get to 135 before before the giveaway so if you haven't liked to hit the like button yes I don't want to upset saying reverse cable chain Squad where you at yeah I've done a couple little things I I did correct the during the build I had set these incorrectly um the uh logos for the Boron I had them on the side uh but but then when I did the inverted Electronics I had to reprint these I corrected it for Steve but initially I was going to leave it out of um I don't know spite okay so everything is pretty well we're at 100 I'm shutting things down we're putting the cable cover on here then we are doing our probe test and we're freaking printing I said we're Printing and and I promise is we are going to be printing so power off okay so uh let's cover up our let's really quickly do these two things here cover this back up since the wires were not incorrect but it was my it was my soldering that was incorrect um let's see can I poke St this down here this wiring is going to get a lot better when we go to can bus because there won't be quite so many running down here and then I will probably cut and recp a handful of them at that moment but for now we shove it all inside of this cable Raceway like so let's not damage that USB cable look at that it's beautiful oops it's not one second uh are you going to tidy up the wiring down there it is what do you mean tidy up the wiring it's beautiful yeah I know I am um not now because again we're going Cann so a lot of these are going to be not even going down um a lot of these aren't going to actually be running all the way down I think this is the wire that's causing it not to there we go okay should have this guy on which this guy takes I I realized also last week after the Stream let make sure AC is unplugged um I realized last week after stream that the ground wire that we had put right here um I don't know you can see it let's zoom in a little bit it it kind of interfered with this top mounted cover and so I had to um I had to push it down a bit see looks good oh catching the wios which is something that Aaron warned me about there we go okay it looks it looks re oops it looks really nice now the top covers on and my Rat's Nest is hidden are you going to do Cable Management yes zombie yes how's the custom Pei plate holding up I'm not printing on it um so heart K sent me a photo of one of his that had completely peeled after he printed ABS on it and so ion conted uh I contacted FEC about it this is what we're talking about for anyone that doesn't know um I contacted FEC about it and they said that that had never happened in their testing they tested for months on the adhesive and that they apparently had narrowed it down to somebody using the incorrect adhesive because it's basically some kind of a I think it's almost like a vinyl printed um onto the spring steel underneath it and they're supposed to use a more temperature resistant um adhesive and they weren't so they told me that they're going to be dirting that sending out new ones to anyone that I purchased and myself so once that one comes in I will print on it this one's just going to be a display piece on the wall so all right powering on like bam I also just realized we haven't actually put the um we haven't put the spool holder on here I don't actually know we'll just use this right now put it beside the bottom panel slides under the rear Motors and tilt on yes okay three more minutes on the giveaway if you have not there is a link pinned in chat and they're going to be giving away a spool of polymaker filament did you clean the bed first I did not that is a great that is a great call thank you sometimes it's fine but there's definitely you should always I mean so in all honesty I recommend the first time probably using a little bit of dish soap and lukewarm water but I'm not going to run to the kitchen um oh wait did I clean you're saying this bed right not the custom one that's not enough IPA [Music] [Music] okay so we are now oh let's put our little H let's see our little silon sock back on keep our keep everything nice and now we can home's he our bed up [Music] to nice we got 134 likes thank you and 183 people watching you guys are [Music] awesome okay so we are running probe calibrate so I believe it's quite literally probe uncore calibrate no it's not it's not probe oh it is probe yeah yeah there we go okay so now it's kind of nice um fluid has this really handy dandy little interface so you can choose by what what increment you want to move things P the hot end we can p the hot end [Music] so I'm using um use you know what let's actually use let's not use the cybor one I'm going to use this is the little printed guide that came with the micro Swiss K1 hot end I don't need that h okay minus one I kind of want to to I think I'm going to leave it like that we might need to baby step it but I'd rather our track record is not great for first Prince Let's actually even go a bit higher yeah we'll go like that accept so weit accept we'll save config and restart okay so last thing we are going to do I'm going to um I'm going to give everyone two minutes left to fill out the form I'm going to unpin it though right now so let's go remove and unpin don't you have a w sheet to use I do I do you're right you're right and I should use it let me see if I can find the bed of Shame uh I think it's probably in this corner um no that's soble uh honey badger here it is will use it thanks for calling me out um this is our bed of Shame um one second here if I go oh no we'll use it I I'm going to kick myself if I if I end up screwing something up and I had access to this bed especially cuz it's right here so this is this is from our 2.4 build um we set everything up on stream and on the first print it dug a Beni into the build plate and I said from now on until we make sure that our Z off sets working the way it should be we'll use this as our sacrificial plate and so thank you for thank you for holding me accountable to what I said so I did say that let's uh let's drop the bed a bit more those were my words okay let's also give this a quick wipe down because it's been sitting in the corner of Shame for a bit here and I don't know how much dust or fingerprints are on it that's true no you're right I the goal isn't to start a collection of beds of Shame although that could be kind of funny like a wall of Terror okay promise the last thing so we got a z offset I just said I would P tun so let's turn on turning on our part fan to we'll do 100% CU we're doing pla here I guess and we are going [Music] to while it's p tuning we are going to do our giveaway let's see calibrate extruder we're just going to go to 220 uh for for pla so let me show you guys what I'm doing I guess um okay so P calibrate heater extruder Target we don't want 245 that's because it's for voron which would be normally ABS is what you test with but we're not in closed so we're just going to change that to 220 we're going to hit go and it should start now climbing to 220 and it'll basically find the P value okay we've done this now I am going to download the giveaways so we got 118 responses for this giveaway if you had not filled it out already I'm sorry but you had you've had enough time um downloads extract all yes Drive okay this should be everybody so I said 118 people right I think that's what I said yep we got everyone alien was the first one it looks like Al no no no no no alien was the last one it looks like wheel of names bam okay here we are so before before we do this I want to say thank you to polymaker for letting us do this for I need to go back and just see when we started doing these giveaways it's been well over a year and a half at this point and they let us give away a spool of filament globally and it is Inc it is such a cool thing and again we're all super appreciative if you haven't tried out polymaker filament they make incredible filament they're always expanding they've got a limited edition Christmas uh bundle which is a great gift for somebody or for yourself if you're I think it's us only but if if not um I think it's us only they also have a 30% off code going on right now which I think is Black Friday 2023 that might be right uh so yeah if you haven't use their filament I highly recommend giving them a go they've got lots of things from pla that are pretty ASA and abs that are pretty as well um all sorts of awesome stuff so let's figure out playmaker is great stuff expensive but very great I guess it depends because polymaker is very much so not expensive compared to some of the other specialty Brands like cookie CAD or um protos or something like that there's definitely cheaper filament but I think that poly maker is incredibly Fair Middle Ground uh between all of them uh Black Friday 2 okay cool yeah so if you use Code Black Friday 2023 and the link in the description it also supports the channel and you get 30% off and yeah it's it's sweet so um what is our range for today today is uh let's see it's the 22nd let's go from 3 3 to 22 how many times are we going to shuffle the range today is between 3 and [Music] 22 Yeah like again if you if you're hunting for the cheapest filament possible you can totally go on Amazon and find either no name brands or sort of no name brands per 10 box sometimes but I would rather have the consistency and knowing that like their formula is just incredibly incredibly consistent freaking zombie okay we're going to do uh I see I see a lot of 15s 15 is what we're going with today let's see 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 all right good luck everybody in three two one here we go [Music] it's Mike I think that's a first time winner congratulations Mike uh let's get you some airor action airor air horn there's supposed to be an end on the end of that and cheer I will I will be sending you an email today uh because tomorrow I will be focused on trying to cook a very large turkey so I will definitely uh get you your email so if you're in the states you'll get a States or Canada you'll get a gift card and if you're outside of the states or Canada you'll get uh to pick between a couple hundred different spools for which one that you want so congratulations um yeah let's let's get back into getting this print let's see and we got 140 likes that's awesome thank you everybody it's been super cool okay so our P tune is done um or in theory it should be it's not done I'm lying it's still doing it it should be finished any second so the only things left is let's while it's doing this let's go on to we'll go printables and see what we [Music] got it's a Christmas Lantern thing looks very festive there's some snowflakes that like seems easy enough right a little little uh flow test cuz we can see it's only a few layers so we got snowflakes we got this pretty thing there's some trees um we can do a tree let's throw a wild card in there something that's not at all um Christmasy um or the slow poly cat these are our options we'll do we'll do like um let's do a quick pull let's just see what we'll go with what everyone wants so so we've got um add option which so we have got cat we've got snowflake snowflake tree and then uh deer or we'll do I guess Christmas tree is what it is technically Chris Christmas tree and then the other one is like uh we'll call it reindeer thing I don't exactly know what it even is like a collage not a collage there you go there's the pole we'll let it run for just like a minute or two okay so let's see is our now we're done okay so p is complete it says we need to save the config so we'll save it which will restart our I'd like this as well me so fluid's got some sweet stuff I haven't used fluid in a long time and I I the first first um web interface ever used was main sale and kind of like it's one of those things where you stick with what you know um but this is nice when you go to save your config before it actually just saves it it pops up and tells you what it's going to be um uh appending I guess to the end of your config file and that's that's cool because I mean yes you assume you know what's being saved but I can verify cool yeah that's exactly what we're trying to do is save uh we're trying to do a p under EXT shooter great bam it's kind of nice yeah it's super nice like that was really cool the Z offset menu was really nice Definitely like those those um those things so we got 42 cat's looking cat's looking like a winner I'm going give it another minute here um let's Also let's quickly see I'm just going to heat this up to like 200 uh let's make sure the extruder direction is correct I don't know I we did not set it let's find some polymaker filament this is all abs abs PS I didn't order the Christmas bundle we've got to have some let's see pet G um where is all polymaker pla all the polymaker all the polymaker filament I have is he like ABS ASA or PG primarily um I know I've gotten some pretty that looks like poly maker yeah we go there's a poly maker this a vertigo Series this is the vertigo nope Starlight Starlight Comet we'll go with this this is pretty stuff check it it's green with like kind of a purple tint to it with sparkles super nice okay looks like cats one so we're definitely doing cats um I'm going to uh let's go overhead really quick so I didn't I didn't hook up the reverse Bowden tube yet and I also didn't hook up the spool holder on the side of this guy so we're just using something off to the side let's cut our pament I'm just going to have it pull it over the top Extrusion here and go down here [Music] okay so we'll close that now let's see if we extrude uh Extrusion 10 nope extrude is doing the opposite of what we want so I'm glad I checked so we need to go under our extruder should be the final thing extruder Direction add an exclamation point to in convert that save and restart hey Panzer here hey panzers here I didn't even see you hey buddy I printed out um well you saw I still need to configure some of the Cress stuff but I've got your 2.4 Mount uh right okay so now if I extrude oh you guys can't see that look nope there we go okay so fingers right here let's see which direction cool we're going towards hot end so let's do an extrusion length of like 50 and let's go speed of uh 15 Cub mm a second just ordered some printer food nice did you you use you got the coupon right Lisa 30% off is awesome I'm actually I show I'm doing a video Saturday's video is on the 2.4 um and I mentioned the mods I've done which is the NX panel clips and the uh 3dio camera but I need to link um I need to remember I didn't post the GitHub link to the product page or no to the to your project or to the product page I just remembered so I need to do that before before it goes live okay so now we should be able to [Music] extrude okay okay so CAD it is with 37% it's clear clear that is the winner so let's go under cute cat download uh don't show again oh I clicked the wrong button there we go downloads cool should have Orca should be on here okay so let's go printer we need to add a trident uh Boron Boron Trident 300 confirm and then we need to add our [Music] go I don't know what to call this thing purple it's Thanksgiving almost we'll call it the purple turkey let oh you guys can't see what I'm doing sorry I didn't realize I forget sometimes to Pivot so all I did was add a trident um to here and then click on the little um wireless button add the IP for it and then name it the purple turkey and that is where we are basically purple turkey cool low poly cat cool we are not printing with AB yes we are printing with pla purple poop eater is the first oh people eater why did I say poop Eater Purple People Eater no no no no no it's I like the purple turkey it's the it won't make sense any other time of the year other than now but I'm fine with that all righty so let's really quickly see what our I don't know if there's a start from macro uh oops that's not what we want we want purple turkey machine g code okay so it has it all in here print start print extruder you can use following code in your if your print start macro use falling code instead if your PR start macro chamber let me see what I've got going on with the uh I'm going to compare the 2.4 my 2.4 huh I am running the same thing with my 2.4 I think we just run it and see what happens let's just go it's 49 minutes we're just using defaults I think the default Excel is set pretty slow on this um on this printer I think it's set is it 3,000 they have it set to you yeah the acceleration is only set to 3,000 so it's not it's not real quick but it's the first print let's just make sure it's all working purple purple um yeah let's just give it a go print upload and print I don't think there was a no with how long we've taken to build this printer I'm going to cherish it we'll tear it apart at some point here when we do um Z and and uh canbus and all that stuff but I want to Cher cherish it for a little bit I also want to check to see if there was I think there was a print start uh config I believe that the I believe that the config file contained a print start macro yeah print start print start has uh bed mesh profile load default so it is not going to run a bed mesh did we save a bed mesh when we ran that earlier I don't know that we did let see if I go [Music] under we also probably should have zilt in our starting macro cuz it's not going to Z tilt no existing bed mashes found okay so yeah we need to we need to change this up really [Music] quick well let's see what it does in a sec here but I I need to add zilt and bed mesh calibrate so right now it's just going to start printing no it's not what did it do ex shooter temperature unknown command extruder temperature Target of 220 oh oh because it's tap right that's what it is so okay so I'm going to have to change that's what happened um because the tap you don't want it at full temp when it homes especially if you're using a nonpowder coated bed uh there's a there's a a check inside so when it went to home right now it saw hey the target is at 220 um which is too high the max is 150 so it's lowering that to 150 so I'm going to have to play around with the I'm going to have to play around with the starting um G-Code to to take that into account that it homes before it actually Heats temp or it it goes to 150 then homes itself and then continues the rest of the heating up what's the max Orca slicer puset is 100 mm short uh Max Z for this is 250 you think it's going to try to print at 220 after it won't revert back it's a great okay so it's at it's at 150 now it's homing let's see if it tries to extrude there if it climbs up and temp after okay okay so it is doing zil I don't know I don't know where it's grabbing I didn't see that in the start macro but it is doing zelt okay it's climbing to no no it's still at 150 bed's at 60 there is a good guy on Camp zombie it's the first it is the first print I will I will ramp up speeds don't you worry okay so did that oh you ordered a vzero and a trident that's awesome okay so it's like HED three [Music] times now it's HED four times okay what did what happened bed mesh unknown profile default unknown okay cuz there's no bed mesh so it wasn't able to load a bed mesh okay so things that need to happen um config printer. CFG so was there a zil in our print start there must have been let's see where is our starting chica print start there's not print start why did it run a zil oh okay goco g32 so it runs a g32 that's why I don't know if you guys can see this over chat but so it runs a g32 which contains it clears out the old bed mesh it does a z tilt and we're and it loads a profile cool so the only thing we need to really do here is run a bed Mash again but save it so that way it's got it for now until we install Camp so let's do that let's go device let's exit out of here let's run our uh it's under tune here tune calibrate okay the temp is under probe okay yeah let's still get a bed mesh just to have a baseline for default but I agree for a small print like this we probably don't need a big mesh it's only I mean we spent we spent months although I've got 30 minutes no I've got technically I till 4:30 but I have like 30-ish minutes till I got to get going cuz Aaron's got work tonight she's closing so okay so this is running while it's running let's let it do its thing let's go back under config uh prob no I don't know where to adjust so that way it goes so that temperature happens after this I think it's going to be in oh you guys can't see this I think it's going to be in here I think it's going to be under purple turkey under machine code under starting um I don't know I don't know at what point in this starting G-Code it's calling the print start macro here we go print start so maybe I need to erase print start so if print starting M 109 but I'm shle start build actually I'm not sure what point I need to [Music] change no I'm not deleting the bed mesh I'm saving the bed mesh so it ran bed mesh we're going to save it now CU we don't have a default bed mesh period so let's close out of here we have it save to config save it as default because what our starting what our starting um it does it does clear it out in case we wanted to run so watch um our starting G-Code has so bed mesh is canceled out there like it's not clearing it but it's calling the g28 no G3 2 which does clear it out then it runs a z tilt then it jumps back over here and loads the default mesh which is what we want cuz that's what our mesh is based off of right [Music] now I mean we can get rid of like we don't technically need to clear it here we can get rid of that but it shouldn't matter because it's calling it before and then it's loading it right here it's loading the default does it delete it or just disable it no this doesn't clear doesn't oh does clear I don't think clear clear doesn't permanently delete it it just has it so it doesn't call yeah I don't I don't think clear permanently deletes it cuz I'm running that on some of my other machines as well at the end of the print I don't think it dumps it I'm pretty sure bed mesh clear just we can check he removes it from being active yeah yeah yeah that's what I thought okay let's just let's just try this and see happens next so if we go down here close let's save and restart there let's hit print again I don't know whether it's going to try to print at 150 Celsius that's the last thing I have to figure out is how to set up the temps for for um wait the probe code in printer config showed what temp to home and zil the probe code in printer config I didn't see that that I looked at it a second ago um oh that's not how you spell probe oh you're saying you're saying down here gotcha set probe temp to 150 but we want this we don't want to change this because it's this is this is like a fail safe basically that if you're trying to probe with because you're using the nozzle and you've got a softer than powder coded Pi it's it's like it's a fail safe it won't let you do it it'll drop it to 150 but what I don't know is let's see so it's saying that if it's at you know Target if temperature Target is already low enough but nozzle may still be too hot I just don't know that once it lowers it if it's going to bring it back up to temp after that's that's the missing piece of this yeah we we want to leave that just make sure you set the print temp after that's what I'm trying to figure out zombie is where in here this is being called start bed mes profile cool huming homing reset yeah so it has to be it has to be in here which is what I was saying I just don't know where at this point I need to change it set bed temperature set nozzle temperature and then print start so it's got to be this must be what I need to be deleting is this line probably this m19 line after after it's doing done probing gotcha okay once it's on prob I'll quickly heat it back up this time but I'll have to add it there then delete the first lines in the slicer it overrides it so it's doing the same thing again it's saying that 220 is too high so it's dropping it down to 150 which I think those two lines may have gotten rid of it should be in your G-Code cample said it's on temperature for testing and then return to the G-Code setting okay cool make it do 150 first till g32 and mesh is done then heat up to your right temperature okay I'm going to I'm going to sort of probably today well maybe not today but in the next couple days I'm going to get Camp going on here so I don't once I get camp set up and I'm like cool this is working how it should be then I'll get those little I'll get that dial then the9 would have caused it to heat up before it tries impr probing okay yeah because it was setting it to first layer temp which was 220 are you preheating your bed yes it's at 60° it's already at 60 but that was because of the M um that was because of the command I just deleted so it might not heat the bed next time I might have to add that into the starting G-Code or the start uh print start I would love I've been wanting to do a video on Macros there and as part of that I wanted to sit down and do a deep dive into macros if you're willing to be my teacher I will gladly sit down and and listen to whatever info you've got on Macros the reason why I haven't done a video on is because I I need to do a very deep dive into the ins and outs of them did you mess with the heated bed I did so it's probably going to try to start printing at 150 now I think it's going to call the it's going to call extruder below Min temp yes okay so it did kill it okay so we do need to do this now this is the last step of it so we've got print startic shooter nozzle temp bed temp initial layer so what do I need to add [Music] in it's the starting gcode we need to edit so we want to first heat things up right like it's like the first thing we want or at least before it does the g32 command in the pr start you need to heat the nozzle at the end of the macro but we also want to heat it at the beginning okay let me one second here let me see if someone's like print start uh set bed temp perimeters bed perimeters extruder status heating set bed T okay so you have it go to 150 yeah yeah so I want M 109 S150 for the extruder oop these are the preheating macros okay so I would think that before g32 we'd want it to heat up here m19 S150 right I don't know how you guys can see that let me scroll up a little bit so we've got the Homing sequence we've got it heating up to 150 then it's running g32 so it's at it's at at this point it's at 150 then it's getting the bed mesh profile which is fine and basically I would think that right here is where we would want it to go I don't heat it at the beginning but you want to heat it for yes and the m190 there as well uh oh the M1 gotcha let me see m190 temp bed so it's just grabbing that let's go move this down a little bit okay so that'll set it to whatever the bed temp is in slicer right it looks like that's what it's grabbing it off of so I think the last thing we would need is once it's done the g32 and it's loaded the bed Mash before it starts printing right here this is where we want it to climb the rest of that temperature m19 m you're not loading any variables into your macro No 109 is hot and 190 is bed yeah that looks right put the m190 at the very beginning I did oh you're saying you're saying just put it before everything I I would imagine it doesn't I can move it to the very front if that's what we're saying O tab I think the only thing we're missing now is it climbing the rest of the way [Music] okay so bed temp set hotend set to 150 we do all of our things and now we need to get the rest of the way or t bed in your case correct m19 set temp and wait yeah oh m19 why does everyone do either heater temp versus temp heater you want temperature weight so this is this is what we want right m19 s does m19 force is it forcing it to wait before it moves on because we definitely want it to we want to make sure it hits the right temperature before it starts printing I just don't know if m19 has a built-in wait till it reaches temp command the ass is force okay cool let's just see let's just see what happens here I'm not saying this is going to work but let's just let's give this a go we've got how much time we got 19 minutes left okay let's slice let's print let's upload make sure we don't have any errors okay okay error unable to parse m190 okay so m190 and Ms through through errors because my naming is incorrect you can just do it in the slicer for now so you don't need the variables s just send temp gotcha it's because the naming isn't [Music] um is Aaron is Aaron in chat because Aaron definitely knows macro stuff well I I don't think that this is incorrect I think that this temp bed and temp extruder probably is not correct okay what am I missing from this remove space what do you mean what what's you need the first two lines from the macr Discord okay ah this is what I need this is what I need right so it's saying it's basically saying temp bed is equivalent to the parameter of bed oh you can't see it hold on I think that this is probably the the the reason why I don't if I add this yeah variables look like they match now so temp bed is equivalent to parameters uh doed and then temp extruder is equivalent to paramet shoter where the one one question I'm the all caps wait like zombie said make sure those are all the same names in the slicer the all caps ones so prams bed an extruder where in the slicer do you get the name used for the parameters that's what I'm not that's what I'm not entirely certain of is it underneath send it starting G-Code so you're saying in the starting G-Code oh okay so there there it is so it's saying extruder in all capitals and bed that's that's the very that's the naming that it's using right there okay okay let's wait I didn't save did I no let's go device save and restart I think we're good I think we're good yeah I I'm going to always use all caps for CER variables and all lowercase for macro variables Ju Just so that way we can quickly see what you're referencing uh let's see okay so it says it doesn't know what exclude object is which is fine SD card print file okay okay okay okay so it's it's homing I don't see bed Temps at zero and extruder Temps at zero bed temp bed should be heating up so telling at no temp right now okay extruder is heating up to 150 but bed's not heating up don't we want bed to heat up as well or is it not bed's not heating up so the you can't see this but the extruder temps working it's heating up to 150 like we expected but hot bed should be heating up as well and it's not it's at wait no it says it's at 60 which is what it's supposed to be at I'm confused right now so it did it did climb no it's working everything's working how it's supposed to be I just didn't see a numeric value there which maybe it was already at 60 yeah I think it was right okay bed was already preheated I think it was right I I didn't realize the bed was already preheated that was why it threw me off I saw Zero and I was expecting to see 60 but looking at the graph down you can't see because of my face but looking at the graph down here it was already at temp so we're everything's looking good so far so we should be waiting to hit 150 which we're at right now it's dropping in temp cool now it should do a bed mesh Cali or no no no it shouldn't do a bed mesh caliber it should do a z tilt then it should load the bed mesh and then it should climb the rest of the way to the temp and then it should start [Music] printing is there a Bed mesh loader yes yes oh I can check let's actually check to make sure that it there is a bed mesh uh yeah default so it's got the default bed mesh okay let's see if it's you you guys still won't be to see it CU my face but see if it starts to climb to two 220 I think is what it's set to yeah you let me know in evening you want to take some time yeah that sounds awesome I appreciate it I will I will definitely let you know okay so it should at this point be done with everything and now it should be climbing yep 220 sick let's climbing into 220 let's go let's go I'm so excited I'm super excited I don't know that I want it heating where it's at I might have it go to a corner somewhere different uh as it climbs to temperature in the permanent macro but because as it's heating up right now it's going to start dripping down some Ooze which it's not ideal to have that right where it's going to be printing yeah we'll Camp it off topic but chains are not yeah yeah yeah yeah you missed our you missed the conversation earlier Ste Steve let me know that the cable chains were on just the end pieces are incorrect on it but because we're going to be going with um we're going with Cann bust we're we're just leaving it but I did I did make a big like hey if you're doing this make sure you check the cable chains because the direction does matter of the ends it's intended to make it where it's not putting as much strain on the cables inside hey Peter thank you so much for becoming a member cheers uh let's air horn and some cheer I don't oh we're extruding we're extruding okay okay we're not dragging on the bed we are not I repeat we are not dragging on the bed move to the center hold on you can't see what's happening cuz the hype is real let's see hey it's sticking it's sticking we're not scraping and it is sticking for anyone wondering why the bed looks awful this is the bed of shame that we use after I destroyed it on my first 2.4 print because the offset was not correct so we're using this before we swap over but yeah first layer is sticking and it looks pretty damn good yeah I'm not going to adjust it at all actually right now is that melted plastic where what are we printing oh it's a cat is there is there supports did I not not turn off let me see no there's no okay it's just the arms of the cat I ordered two of the new revision Beacon oh nice what is it like rev H it's pretty cool the new board is just a single board and it also has an adxl built in and it has what is it better accuracy and even less thermal drift push the up button for Speed wait what less thermal drip nice yeah I'm I'm super stoked that we are printing I know I said we were going to print and and and I had full intentions of printing but we certainly hit a few more snags than I expected which at this point should be expected uh less thermal D nice yeah I have had zero issues with thermal draft even in the uh vbot granted I'm mostly printing abs and ASA and I'm not doing like high temp poly car but it's worked great in the VY I got one of those can can Beacon oh yeah yeah just uh protesting I'm staying with tap just because of the fact that weon doesn't measure the actual yeah I I was offered one of those the sort of like Beacon clone type things that uses an rp240 and I said No at least for now I just I I just covered the beacon and talked a lot with the developer of it and it's it's like it's a small business and like I don't know man they they put a lot of R&D and time into it and I'm not saying that it's a one toone copy but if it wasn't for the work of Beacon I can just I can guarantee we wouldn't have that as an option so I've also heard of issues with thermal drift on it so yeah for now I'm sticking with I'm sticking with OEM Beacon if I'm doing any current sensors yeah the built-in accelerometer is really nice I mean I'm not again I everyone's got to do what's right for them and I understand the beacon is not a cheap piece of Hardware um and I I I mean I purchased plenty of Cl clones when starting off like I mean I was getting like V6 clones back in the day for 15 bucks cuz I couldn't afford the 50 or $60 e3d V6 so I'm not you know knocking anyone that's going to do what you got to do but for me personally I'm going to stick with the OEM Beacon I order Beacon but they asked if I wanted to wait for the Rev H but I have tap in the mail so we'll probably go tap uh I'd order an OG one for sure but can't really justify it's way too much import feed yeah know I I get it again the print's looking really good like I I wish I could take you guys even closer um but the layers are stacking up really really nicely we can we'll bump it a little bit just for fun here because again I've got only a few minutes left let's see uh speed it's 200% I think 200 is 200% the max it looks like that's the max I just went straight to 200% acceleration is going to be our biggest limiting factor on the size of this the default config had it set to 3,000 Excel which will definitely be bumping up but I'll need to run input shaping and do some more tuning L pressure ADV and all that uh the print speeds are default for Orca um which are outer wall 120 inner wall 200 Spar infill 200 the the biggest limiting factor is again the the firmware the firmware set acceleration for this config was real slow um I have my Gucci Center uh I have mine Gotti Center rear while climbing to final attemp and run from left I love Beacon yeah Beacon's rad Beacon is definitely a cool piece of Hardware hey what's up BBs oh what's the Orca Maxi I think it's 250 I think 250 is what the Orca is that right I don't know what the what the uh Max yeah it's 250 in Orca slicer for Trident 300 Max Z I don't know what the max is supposed to see uh since January of this year I can't order anything outside of Austria oh that sucks that's that's a that's a bummer I'm sorry to hear that I I guess I I mean being in the states I sort of take for granted how easy it is to get so many things but I I definitely know because of how much of my audience is all over you know North America South America Europe Australia all over that it's certainly not the case everywhere in the world we yeah we are melting plastic yeah yep yep getting the uh macro figured out was the last real sticking point for me I just I run a lot of defaults with macros so I I don't a lot of it sort of uh voodoo magic for me I just haven't I haven't do I know enough to where like if I go in and I need to tweak some things I can but um there's certainly a lot of question marks especially when I am not just actively searching Google oh what's the max setable Zan Orca slicer I I don't know I don't know can I do triple digits or not triple I mean can do four it looks like 2,000 2,000 MIM is the max value I I tried 10K and it it dropped it to two uh 200 I mean I'm sorry I tried 10,000 mm and it dropped it down to 2,000 mm long day hope you have a nice thanks hey thank you you too it's going to be just it's Aaron me and Jackson we are making turkey Aaron got the uh stuff it's just going to be Aaron and me tag teaming in the kitchen all day we um again big turkey we're going to make some gravy with the turkey drippings and some some flour we are doing aon's doing a green bean casserole I'm doing mashed potatoes we're doing steam carrots and then we we didn't feel like we were going to want or have the energy to make a pie so we just got a pre-made little 8 in pumpkin pie for us did you get the labels working on the label printer a call I still haven't done it collie I still haven't done it I feel awful he sent me it I'm like I should have done it what do you think about the stepper online Motors included the cyborg kit I've been thinking of upgrading I think they're solid I mean I don't have anything against against steppers online I looked him up I mean they rated up to two amps I I don't know I don't know what we'll see I'm not going to upgrade them until if we're playing around this and we start seeing some actual limitation caused by them then sure we can talk upgrading but for now I I don't have any plans of upgrading I've ran stepper online in my original vzer and I think one other printer build as well and I've had pretty like I I think they're quality stepper Motors oh that's too bad zombie yeah 2000 is the top so you're your uh your 2001 printer you'll have to use you have to use another slicer what do you think of the bed leveling 2.4 versus Trident what do you mean lots of lots of things that limit yeah totally yeah I mean I'm I mean this does have a dragon high flow I imagine we'll run into cooling issues well before we reach the um motor issues but if we go Z that'll help and because it's a trient and the bed drops we could essentially do something kind of like the vbot probably where we have a side blower fans if we wanted to so we'll see yeah uh FAO was going to send out one of those old two kits like a week and a half ago I think he forgot so I need to need to reach out to FAO and see if they can send them if not I'll I'll place an order for him but we still have some time I want to run it stock for again 30 days I'll get some footage of it give some feedback uh to to um cybor and then we'll and then we will uh yeah go from there so before I end it which we're going to end it in just a couple minutes here plans for the next couple weeks here so next Wednesday we are going to be unboxing a printer that's been sitting in a box in the garage for longer than it should have been it's the KP 3s um nope King room KP l one it's the core XY King room King room printer I've had it for a while we're going to get unboxed so next week will be pretty chill we'll set it up we'll look at what what's included with it we can look at the electronics we'll get it printing we're just going to run it stock then there's a handful of smaller projects that I kind of want to do between now and the holidays uh in the new year which are going to be I've got a V1 big tree Tech Nami or Nomi that I've had forever and I was originally going to just make a stealth burner that sat on my desk that and and used the Nomi as sort of like a uh whatever printer I guess I'm using most commonly as like a status thing so I can see it from there but we're going to we're going to do the it's called the devil burner which is an upgrade for the K1 Max the creality K1 Max and it's not incredibly functional at all it's more just for looks it allows you to use the Nomi and add LEDs to the tool head so we're going to do that I want to finish the snake oil the snake oil XY which is the king room KP 3s conversion which gives you like XY belt tension or better Zed uh it gives you we've got a um Sherpa sherpa mini and a all metal hot end on there so we need to finish that I'd like to do that and then I also want to install the the Terminator tool head from Victory attch onto an Ender three so we need to swap the end three from v- rollers to linear Rail and then put that tool head on there and install Clipper uh and then then in the New Year the things I've got lined up right now are going to be a cybor ender wire we're going to be doing an Ender wire build and then I was talking to foro and we're going to do a K3 build so those are the two bigger things after that so it's the K lp1 okay yep just don't use VZ hacks yeah so we've got quite a few and those are just the starting things there's a few other project in the background and and uh as well but those are the first initial ones we're we're going to end the stream engineering I I supposed to end it 2 minutes ago I don't like the filament rubbing on the Extrusion I know I'm going to install the filament holder and the panels on this but I just for didn't want to do it yet yeah we are this officially ends the Trident build series I mean in theory we could do one more episode where we put the panels on and the spool holder and stuff like that but I think I'm just just going to put that stuff on and then we will continue in the Trident probably in like sometime next year in the first 30ish days of the year we'll convert it to Z and we'll convert it to canbas and play around with that stuff which will be a ton of fun so uh K3 depends I need to talk to FAO and see when they want to do that cuz it's sort of they're sponsoring the build the kit for it so uh it depends on when they have the inventory and when when it's going to make sense for them but I I will certainly let everybody know as soon as I've got info so I wonder if you have all the pieces for the panels because I was missing a few of the panel mounts o we'll see we'll see I've got a big bag of panel clips and stuff like that but I'm probably going to go with the annex Clips I'll use what I've got because already printed but long term I really like the annex Clips I don't even know I almost want to just do that right away so we'll we'll see but the anex clips are are awesome for the panels okay I'm going to end it on that note so I've got 20 minutes with Aaron before she's got to take off to work and I can watch Jack so she can get ready but thank you everybody for hanging out it has been a super fun stream today uh we started off with some troubleshooting definitely some laps and in the end of all we are Printing and again it's it's doing a pretty dang good job I'll post the cat on on Twitter or on um in the Discord later so we can see it but I mean for not doing any Eep calibration or rotation distance and just running at stock the cat's looking good so that's that's um that is assuring if you are in the US I hope everybody has a or if you're I guess if you're somewhere else celebrating Thanksgiving I hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving and we will be streaming next week on Wednesday I don't know what time yet but as always when I know I will schedule it out so that way if you want to be here uh hopefully you can make it so on that note again thanks everybody for all the laughs all the support all the memberships the uh couple donations and I will see you guys all next week cheers everyone take care

Channel: ModBotArmy

Views: 5,022

Keywords: siboor, siboor trident, voron, voron trident, trident 3d printer, budget trident, best voron trident kit, trident build, voron trident build, tap voron tap, corexy, 3d printer

Id: -d53XUArW6Y

Length: 188min 14sec (11294 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 22 2023