Shimano Ultegra Di2 12 Speed Upgrade Project: Installation // Part II

[Music] welcome to part two of my di2 upgrade project video series where i'm taking my giant tcr road bike with the older shimano ultegra di2 11 speed and upgrading it to the latest and greatest semi-wireless 12-speed ultegra di2 in part number one i went through all the components that i've chosen i then configured it all here on the bench and had it working today the fun begins but before the fun begins we need to remove the older grip set off the giant tcr and because i've been watching a lot of colin first videos you're gonna get some high speed hard rock fast motion bike wrenching in the next 66 seconds as that takes place and with that go so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] and done 66 seconds and the power of the internet to get that bike fully stripped back minus the fork the headset the stem and the handlebars which remain unchanged for this project now there is a lot to get through today so i have marked this video with chapters down below if you want to jump ahead but what's coming up is hydraulic brakes install and bleed the di2 battery installation and the wiring install yes there's still wires to deal with front and rear derailleur installation bottom bracket install the crank set install which i am using the shimano dual race r 9200p disc rotor installation 12 speed cassette installation on an 11 speed hd freehub which they are compatible with i'll take you through the full process that i use for the 12 speed chain waxing from out of the packet into the hot melt wax and onto the bike then it's on to tuning the gears with the limit screws and the b tension tool they provide and lastly i go over a few final touches with the build so yes there is a lot to get through today let's get straight into it right now firstly to set up the hydraulic braking system and resizing the new brake hoses using the old hoses as the correct length because they were and the new ones are now after using the tlb h62 to cut those hoses and press the barbie on with the brake calipers using standard tools for now torque wrench later on just to get those set in place and the hose is routed through using the park tool ir 1.2 internal cable routing kit one of my favorite tools when working on bikes okay there's not a tool that'll grab the hose so a little bit of tape does go a long way and allows me to pull the hose through with the park tool wire and after a little bit of fiddling it is all good front brake a little easier no internal routing with that on the giant tcr so brake caliper on zip tied to the fork yes it's a little bit ugly but this is the 2019 giant without the internal cable routing connection grommet on and everything nice and neat levers on and back to the marks that i'd put on the bars with texter before taking the old levers off the t-handle wrenches that i'm using are the feedback sports t-handle allen wrench and torx set you can see them in the background they're a little bit blurry that's how they come in the set and in with the hoses and an eight mil wrench and then the torque wrench later on okay first up we'll do the bleed of the front brakes to get rid of all the air bubbles using the shimano tl bt-03-s road brake bleed kit and the funnel adapter with o-ring and this really is a simple task with the new setup squeezing bubbles come out that's what we like to see squeeze until we see no more bubbles and that's pretty much it very simple close off the valve disconnect everything clean it all up a few squeezies and we're a way to go that's as easy as that which is also making sure there's no leaks there out with the brake block in with the brake pads split pin in and we're good rinse and repeat for the rear yes here in australia we do have the rear brake on the left that's just how things are and again out with the brake pads in with the brake bleed block and the exact same procedure as we saw before on with the hose opening up the valve a little bit of squeezy a few bubbles come out and we keep going back and forth until there are no bubbles close off the valve a few squeezes again and making sure there's enough squeeze in there it's not too soft and not too hard and once that's done out with the blade block in with the brake pads again and split pin back to the lever to remove the oil cup and install the top cap back on tidy everything up and we are done for the hydro system easy as that one of the battery replacement pulling out the dn110 it's mounted in my seat post comparing it to the dn300 which they look very very similar but they are incompatible so in with the dn300 using the giant seatpost specific wedge and all sits in there pretty tight good to go into routing cables again because this group set is only semi-wireless and i got the rear derailleur one in no problems at all the front derailleur cable which will go up the seat post will require some internal routing help with the park tool tool and there is no end cap for the new di2 wire so out with a bit of tape to pull it up through the seat post and i have both of those cables threaded through the top just using a bit of velcro tape here to make sure everything won't rattle around installing those into the seat tube or bike frame and all good to go tucking everything up here with a few anti-rattle cables which look a lot like uh cable ties just making sure everything's not going to rattle around when i'm riding along so i'm making a complete mess of that and shoving it all the way up and okay we are good seat post on with torque wrench onto the front derailleur and setting that in place for now getting the cables hooked in now there is a little corner cable adapter that goes in for that which pushes straight in pretty easily there's also a frame brace which i'll deal with later on pushing it into the grommet making sure it's all neat and then onto the rear rail again temporary install before snugging everything down with the torque wrench later on this is just to make sure the cables and things hook up cable on grommet in brace adapter on and good to go okay we had everything paired on the bench in part one you can simply press the buttons and we're getting happy sounds good to go next up onto the wheels manufacturing bottom bracket which is a thread together bottom bracket not just a straight press fit so hopefully eliminating any creaks i've used one of these in my other tcr's with great success so that went on very very easily with the correct tools with the bottom bracket now in place it's time for the crank set and i will be installing the new g-race r 9200p power meter which does require a frame magnet it goes on pretty easily there with a little bracket crankset goes straight in and the installation of this is very straightforward on the non-drive side two pinch bolts this little securing bolt just here is a little different having to push the electronics out of the way but as you can see here everything else remains the same once that electronic component is clipped in we snug those down as per spec this is a power meter after all so we do this one right from the get go cap on job done for the power meter rotor installation doesn't really require any grease but i like to keep things absolutely perfect and smooth so a little bit of grease means everything goes on nice and smooth and also comes off nice and smooth too so 160 on the front 140 on the rear snugging that down nice and tight then it's onto the cassette again a little bit of grease on the hg free hub which is compatible with 12 speed shimano road cassettes [Music] sliding everything in there a little bit of grease just makes it perfect and away we go wheels done without going too deep down the rabbit hole in this one this is my chain prep with four bottles of mineral turpentine two bottles of methylated spirits and the chain which we need to strip off all that packing grease from the middle turpentine on the left there looks a little dirty it is recycled so i do run those through a few coffee filters so it is good to go and as you can see as i move over to the right it gets a little cleaner so for the first one it's a lot of shaking a lot of shaking and then leaving it for a few hours before taking it out and rinse and repeat literally for the next one and the next and the next and once all those are done i drive the chain and then it's two cycles through the methylated spirits as the final prep as well as once that's done putting it in front of a nice warm heater to make sure everything is totally dry ready for the immersive wax now with no expense spared i've gone with the insta pot which is quite expensive to melt the silke hot melt wax now it won't be just this bike i'll be using for this it'll be pretty much all my bikes now going from the dripwax over to this now using your drip wax between hot melts take about 10 minutes or so for that to liquefy and we're good to go [Music] now that was taking way too long to cool down so i've removed it from the insta pot and just left it there in the pot to cool until there was a surface forming on top which i believe is the indication that it's time to pull that chain out and let it cool down and the wax to stick to the chain now while i'm at it let's do the quick link as well because why not leaving that for a few minutes to cool down alligator action there before making my own escargot from the chain [Music] which means it's ready to go on the bike rule of thumb for chain resizing has always served me well big on the front big on the back not routed through the rear derailleur and plus one you see a quick link there we're good to go snapping that one off with the bbb btl 55 chain rivet tool which is 12 speed compatible and kind of struggling to thread this through the rear derailleur the wax is quite stiff initially it needs a ride for about a kilometer or so before that gets into play and quick link always easy to do quick links like this boom done good to go and the final tuning is with the limit screws on the rear derailleur making sure the highs and lows don't go too far and the beat tension template they give here is very very handy similar to what sram used and from there everything was ticking along literally still ticking along because with all that hard wax built up on the chain i did need to go out and ride for a kilometer or so to get rid of all that wax build up on the chain before doing the fine tuning which didn't take too long on the bike to really dial in nicely and here's what it sounds like after the first ride absolutely silky smooth gear changing and it doesn't fine tuning just making sure everything is torqued down correctly a little grub screw there pressing up against the frame to brace the front derailleur up against the derailleur mount rechecking the b tension after the chain can move a little bit more freely and making sure those disc calipers are correctly spaced with that handy little tool and everything is torqued up to spec and with that here is the finished product well finished for now anyway the 2019 giant tcr advanced pro zero disc with the new ultegra 8170 12-speed semi-wireless group set it's a bit like grandpa's axe or the ship of theseus because not much on this bike is the original spec now i didn't set out to make a how-to guide for the upgrade just a well what i got up to for this upgrade project for part two putting it all together the how-to references that i used throughout this entire build were number one the shimano technical documentation which is absolutely brilliant and as always the best site on the internet for anything di2 bettershifting.com links below in the video description for both of those websites and with that stay tuned for part three where i'll have a chat after a few rides about the ins and outs the ups and downs of this new semi-wireless groupset upgrade thanks for watching oh

Channel: Shane Miller - GPLama

Views: 87,371

Keywords: Shimano, Di2, Di2 Upgrade, Daily Lama, Shane Miller, GPLama, GP Lama, Cycling, Shimano Di2, Di2 Firmware, Di2 Battery Charger, dura, Di2 Help, Di2 Programming, E-Tube, E-Tube Project, Ultegra Di2, Dura Ace Di2, Electronic Shifting, Di2 Road Bike, cycle, GIant TCR, Giant Di2, Di2 Tips, Shimano Cycling, Di2 Switches, Di2 Hoods, Di2 Build, di2 setup, Cable Routing, Di2 12 speed, R8100, R8170, New Shimano, New Di2, new ultegra, XTR Rotors, Disc Brake, ロードバイク, ultegra r8100, di2

Id: G48UFKolz94

Length: 15min 32sec (932 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 17 2022