Setting Up A Haltech Basemap On Haltech NSP Software

yo guys what is up welcome to Humble performance today guys we're gonna be looking over the hall Tech Elite and setting up a base map using the hall tech software now the big thing is that I actually made a like 45 minute video on setting up a base map uh back last year on the ESP software and then roughly about two weeks later haltech released the NSP software which is the new Nexus software programmer and since then I have not remade the basement video I know that several of our customers have gone through the ESP video and used that and applied it to the NSP but I thought that would make a video that's more explicit for the NSP now this is a live stream and if you're watching this video after live stream uh welcome if you guys aren't already subscribed be sure to subscribe to home performance I want to do more videos like this in the future really explaining the technical side of all our products that being said in the shop right now we're preparing for the all-mortar tour which will be a race series I think of five all motor races specifically we're taking our Flagship Car loans out to one of those races and we're converting walenta from the motec m130 to the hall Tech Nexus R5 so we'll have a lot of videos on that soon what I thought I would do is take a moment because one of our biggest product Sellers and things that we tune as well in wobble Hall Tech lead uh ECU systems so we're gonna go from there I see Carnival performance just jumped in here on the hall Tech Elite uh 550 just recently went as ifo NS a couple weekends ago with his all-motor car really really good job out to uh Gabriel out in carnal performance but what I want to say guys is if you have any questions be sure to leave them in the chat right now I want to be reading them as we're going I'll be able to answer those questions as we move along and if you have any questions leave them in the chat I won't be answering them Midstream or Midway through what we're going to be going through however at the end we will be going through all the questions so we're going to go and get to that let's go and get started so in this video specifically we'll be talking about building a base map for a K20 and the reason that I'm choosing that engine specifically actually a K24 the reason I'm choosing that engine specifically is because the settings for the K24 don't work directly into the base map from Hall Tech so I've changed some settings and that really let me nail down some of the explanations and play as well as that has the K20 has more settings than the B OBD1 like a B18 or H22 or a D series engine so all the things about the steering Universe I'm going to try to apply them so you guys can apply them to your own setups um that being said there obviously will be difference between the different setups and things like that too but in general it should be ready to go I'm also going to making the assumption that you're running the NSP software and that you've already upgraded your ECU from the esp2 NSP if you buy a new Hall Tech you'll probably come with these you already set up with the firmware for NSP but if you have an older Elite or you're buying one second hand you will need to upgrade the firmware 2bs compatible with the NSP software so if you haven't done that go ahead and do that I'm not gonna make that video that's going to take a lot of time and it's it's pretty straightforward but if you need a question without you can sense the calls while we can we can do that for you so we're right now on the window we have the hall Tech NSP software open it's pretty simple I'm walking through the layout as well as setting up your base map so first thing you need to understand is that everything here lives in here and one of the biggest confusing things that I see from a lot of people when you send maps to people on the hall tech software is that people fail to load maps on the car when we send them to them so I just want to walk through how that works real quick I do not have my computer connected to the hall Tech right now so I can't really do it exactly but a lot of people do the file open and think that that is what loads the map on the computer once the map is connected the key is on you actually need to hit the import upload function so I'm going to show you guys how that works in general so we're going to go ahead and get started on this thing as a whole so we're going to work as like we're doing a new map so I'm going to hit file new and it's going to bring up this box and it's going to bring up the box that explains all these ecos you can choose you're obviously going to choose the ECU that works or what that you're using so the 1500 2500 those can be your average ones that most people are using and now with the new Nexus R3 which is gonna be great it's the new 2500 successor qcr3 when for instance in the lenses case using the R5 and use the R5 now the other cool thing with this specifically is that these maps are not exclusive to each other so they're not exclusive as I'm saying that if you have an elite 25 500 and you'll use only 1500 you can actually import most of the settings from the 2500 your big difference between the two really is going to be the wiring pin out so the 2500 has more available pens in the 1500 or more inputs and outputs in the 1500 so you might make some adjustments but if you're doing a Honda in my in my experience typically you're not going to go outside of the 1500 uh the 1500 pen assignments that being said on the 1500 if you're doing something like from a k-pro for example um some of the pens do need to be moved specifically the evap purge if you're doing boost control and you're using the original k-pro like the a21 or B21 pin for the k-pro boost control output um you will need to move that pin on the jumper harness itself so you have the use of 1500 whereas the 2500 itself that pin is actually allocated to one of the outputs directly so you can use that on 2500 with a 1500 you cannot use the k-pro uh boost control that being said moving that wire is not very hard it takes maybe three minutes but you do have to have some Savvy when you do that so um if that's something not gonna be covering that video but it is it's pretty straightforward so I'm going to say that 90 of our customers are only haltek Elite 1500s that's what we're gonna be sticking with because that's what most your OBD1 guys will be using that's almost your K series guys I'm using the 2500 steps to be the exact same process it was just like 2500 here instead of 1500 either way will be the same we can go from this one it's like 1500 ECU pin out or ECU 1500 uh setup as well so it's going to load up all our stuff on our main screen you can see I have a lot of Windows here um I'm going to start with the default main screen so it's easier for you guys to follow along here uh we're gonna do page remain so this is gonna be your main screen that pops up when you open up a map when you open everything so you can see it's opening up here so on the left side here guys we have our what's originally was known as the main setup on the elite the ESP software on the NSP it is on the left side of the screen so with that all there we have several uh several menus in play with several sub categories as well so categories and subcategories I'm gonna be walking through each one of these now what I like to do personally is I like to right click you can right click on any of these categories and add them to favorites so I always have the ones that I always use on my favorites typically so they're easy to access at any time I also build pages around those um but that's a whole other situation we can get to later so let's talk about this we have the spacecraft open right now none of the settings for the K series or the Honda B series are in ECU whatsoever nothing is there so with nothing there that means we need to put that data in there there's very important data we need to put in there which will be things like your trigger settings injector settings sensor settings it sensor pen outs all that stuff so we're going to start with that as far as configuration so I know we're doing k-series luckily for us for Honda people halltech has great support for the Honda platform so we are able to insert one of the base maps and then modify it to suit pretty easily so what we're gonna do guys is hit file and this is going back to the one I was talking about people to load their maps on our ecu's this is how you're going to do it when it's plugged in you're going to file import upload not file open file import upload we're gonna go to base Maps Honda and then this is where it's also confusing as well for a lot of Honda people um the ep3 versus dc5 so ep3 is going to be your O2 the o5 RSX uh or ep3 so this is going to be your standard if you're doing a case Rock car for example in an EGR EK the DC the ep3 is when you want to use um when you're doing the only reason it was dc5 and dc5 specifically refers to the 0506 RSX Type S so if you do do the swap with the 0506 harness which people have done I don't recommend it um but you can uh you can do that there but if you're doing the standard case swap ep3 is going to have everything you need and don't give us confused with the American ep3 or the ep3 map on this software is built around the Civic Type R so the k20a Type R engine so all your settings will work it doesn't have the weird VTC stuff from the from the A3 engine it is an eight it's effectively usdm a modified A2 engine so you can use the ep3 maps on the K20 setup no problem you're gonna hit 1500 the 1500 Maps you see there's a 1000 1500 a 2000 at 2500 you're gonna get the E 1500 map on here and you're gonna hit open once you hit open it's going to open all the maps up here and it's going to bring up this window once this window is open you're going to bring this open so what we're gonna do is we're gonna be importing all the settings from that map into the ECU which is going to be on the right hand side we're going to upload all now when you're uploading other important things into the map for individual sections you can do that by setting up all this stuff as well um and all that stuff as well um but that's all there so you can do all this stuff right here under sensors ignition tuning engine functions all that stuff solid sites here just to upload all this is going to upload the entire base map into the map that you just created which is new so the reason we create a new map before we upload this map is going to be very specific I'm going to show you why on the top of the left hand menu you're going to see vehicle information you're going to click of vehicle information and it's going to bring this up as your vehicle name Elite default whatever so this knowing the structure of the hall Tech works is what the name of the folder is so all your files for your hall Tech will live inside this folder that you create here so this can be named folder so we're going to call this uh humble live stream K20 now it's going to make a prompt that's going to ask me if I want to rename the window rename the folder or make a new folder I'm going to create a new folder here that's all right cool so I'm going to show you guys kind of how the hall Tech stuff works real quick so you have this here so under Hall Tech you're gonna do the documents haltek Nexus maps and data logs under there you're going to see the folder we made so you can see for us for from a business perspective as far as tuning I have all the tunes we've ever tuned on whole Tech on here ready to go so I can always reference the Tunes back it also backs up now your logs live in this folder when you're data logging on the computer or whatever and then we pull stuff remote wall is pulling put them back on our folders here so it helps keep us organized we can see here humble base map example so which you can see in this folder now is that I have the base map that we've created already and then auto backup now in the typical folders I'll use my car for example my white EG all-wheel drive we have logs autologs and auto backups so the software is constantly backing up your tunes you're modifying them as well as that when you're running your logs in your car when you pull logs end up in the auto logs folder when you're doing uh ecu-based analoging and then when you go to logs logs over your PC base log so if you're in the car live hit log on the live when you're running um you can do that as well so that'll work there um I see someone asking in the comments if it has AC support if you're running an RSX Type S no can AC support is not currently available it is having talked the whole set kind in the pipeline through open can that being said RSX is not available now we'll go back to this we'll go back to the humble base map open this back up real quick um but if you're doing the swap car for example on AC I might my personal swap car has AC in it um you can run AC on All Tech as well by the way that's not an issue um so now they've got our our map our folder set up on the thing we're now able to go through all our basic settings we're gonna go through our basic engine startup parameters before we get into the other stuff we're not going to go through tuning or ignition tuning a lot of stuff but this base map will be enough to get almost literally every single K series called running as long as running the default tribals and things like that so the first menu here guys we have is engine configuration I'm sorry for the phone calls by the way guys we are sitting outside the phone and then the phone hasn't been answered so uh that's cool so we're going to uh open up on this left side under engine configuration we're gonna have this fault this this these venues these Majors can be extremely important to set up correctly um because if you don't set them up correctly your car will never run right because the car what you're doing right now is building a model based on the engine of the car so if you think about this tune this isn't we're not necessarily directly controlling everything uh as far as fuel goes um what we're doing is we're putting into an algorithm the algorithm then spits out the exact correct injector pulse with to hit our Target AFR which I'll get into that concept when we get to that point so we need to make sure that these these settings are are as accurate or as correct as possible so for example like I said in this example we're viewing a K24 setup with that being said we do need to change engine capacity as you guys can see this is built for a K20 or 1998 CC so that is a two liter engine we need to convert this to a 2.4 liter engine so we're going to change that 1900 CC the 2400 is like 23.80 it doesn't matter like that's close enough or it really doesn't matter uh but we can go ahead and hit that and then from there to four stroke piston engine there's four cylinders 380 crane RPM this would be the minimum RPM that the car will recognize as cranking you don't need the changes but once the RPM goes over 380 RPM it will then know that the car is running and that's how it changes over to Ryan from here on throttle limits you can see user demand minimum user demand maximum these two settings are how the ECU knows when the throttle is open or the throttle is closed now this works in conjunction with your TPS the big thing that this throttle limit thing will do is it will turn off your idle control if it exceeds this number now what I personally seen in realistic situations with Honda cars or other cars or older cars is that the TPS likes to do flickering in the voltage so while ideally your TPS be configured to 0.5 volts at zero percent throttle and 4.5 volts at wide open throttle in reality that doesn't happen that often and what happens is when you set your your TPS calibration to that 0.5 volts what you'll see is that it might flicker from 0.5 to 0.6.7 volts just sitting still without moving and what happens when your idle for simple vibrations are causing that issue as well in the voltage whatever when it's happening you're seeing flicker up and down and that 0.5 in my opinion is a little bit too small of a window because a lot of times at 0 to 0.5 will be like half a volt so what I like to do on this section is put this to one volt and that's really the only change you got to make to that because what happens is that one percent is a pretty pretty decent margin on top of that if this setting were set too high and say you hit the throttle you're going to get weird transient response when you hit the pedal might not register the throttle is open fast enough and your car might go lean for a split second and might misfire because of specific issues so one percent is usually a pretty safe number and then you can really make here just with the TPS to make sure that it really sits on that one percent but you want your TPS when the car is at rest or idle to sit under this specific number that's how you keep your idle control working a lot of people have problems with this and I see a lot of people struggle with their idle specifically because of this issue that is how you fix that issue if you're having idle issues um you just turn on your control State and you can see exactly why it's causing it but that's a whole other thing for another day so now we have the engine configuration set up as far as this goes like I said the beginning retaining here is engine capacity 2.4 liter engine capacity the only change you're firing with this K series map because it's obviously how the K series fires all that stuff and then the star limit is just a it's a tip that's going to save you a lot of headache that a lot of people that I know that have tried to tune All Tech cars I run into and have not found the solution that's the solution in case you've ever wondered how to make car idle correctly or if it's doing if it has a surging idle this is usually the cause of that if it's not a mechanical like the icv being bad this is the typical cause or the TPS is bad is the other issue so I've got set up another trigger settings now so Hall Tech has actually created a new database for trigger settings I don't personally use it but it will make your life easier um but what I do typically for all these things is some people go to the base map all the k-series trigger settings are here for those of you who are not initiated with what trigger settings are trigger settings are how the engine finds position so if you look at your engine and take it apart look down by the oil pump on a Case here specifically you'll find the trigger wheel which is a 12 plus one wheel um so it's 12 evening space teeth plus one extra tooth on top that's how the motor knows when the crank is top dead center and on top of that the cam has four teeth plus one so four evenly spaced teeth with one extra tooth if I had one I would show you but I do not um that being said that's how it'll work so this is all set up already for you don't have to do anything with this side of the anything with the trigger settings the one thing you need to pay attention to however is this TDC offset number this number is how you're going to be making timing similar to like an Honda s300 when you're setting up your distributor timing and things like that that is where this is going to be so to get your car started 311 should be a pretty decent number and in my experience with most k-series engines you're gonna be between 308 to 3 11 315 range and that range if you're going anywhere outside of there I would look towards seeing if one of your trigger wheels or your timing chain is off because if you go way out of those numbers something is way wrong should be 308 to 315 is what I would say give or take a little bit more too but if you're going like 340 or 360 or 270 or something around those range you have a problem in the engine that needs to be addressed your timing is off that's a whole that's we're not going over that for right now but these settings right now you should not have to change any trigger settings from the default you don't have to cut any wheels off like other issues like for instance fuel Tech you do have to cut off uh two wheels you can't run on the default settings however they do have some issues with triggering that I've seen personally um but you don't have to do any of the modification Wheels the CC whatsoever you can use the sports Factory trigger from the get-go there's no modifications whatsoever uh so we have that all set up you don't do anything with that now we know the fuel system now this is going to be another important system as well when you're syncing timing and things like that to a brand new engine disable injections here as well typically you won't have to I I've never seen timing that the engine off on a K series because the trigger settings are pretty much on point for every single case series engine they all run more or less the same unless you start changing trigger set of things for instance putting like a 36 one wheel on or things like that or 10-year camter or pulse plates or if you like a fuel Tech treasure for the whole Tech change the wheels over you probably will need to do this and sync the timing up that's a whole nother situation don't need to worry about any stuff here um the short with pulse width Adder is an important thing you need to look at if you're running things like ID 2600 injectors or the big injectors um with short with short pulse with added in the injector data that'll be enabled here it's not under anything else it's kind of a hard setting to find but it's there so this would be for your pulse with Adder if you need to use that for a thing that's more of an advanced tuning thing I wouldn't be concerned with that if you're a beginner you need to do things but that's where that is for tuners that are experienced looking for short pulse with Adder thing it is right there all right fuel density you can ignore this this is uh this is set by a fuel type injector settings you can also ignore this if you want have a DTC when your car goes from 90 uh 90 uh IDC injector duty cycle you can set that as well it'll create a check engine light and then you can also build an engine Protection Program around that if for example your fuel pump dies off uh you can have the car do things like that and then these are the things that are involve more like the uh the peak and hold injectors as far as uh open circuits things like that if the the wiring's wrong or the other ones have injector with no resistor box most people modern days don't use anything other than high impedance injectors wouldn't worry about that ignition system once again another setting you don't have to change because it is set up in the default K series settings um it's all here you're probably never going to change this ever um however for advanced tuners your 12 times living here so if you need to change your dual times they will be right here under your ignition system so there's a lot of confusion with how this menu system works but these are your main menu setup things how it all works as far as that goes but that's all there so now we got that we now have sensors so this is where you're going to live for your calibration stuff so when you're in the car and once you've loaded this map on the car your throttle position calibration will be very important that's going to be here you have your throttle condition wizard here I have opted away at this point really honestly from using the wizard but for most people the wizard will work fine what I do personally is I will look at the voltage when it's at rest because the voltage will read right here in this section it'll tell me exactly how many volts are at zero and then what I'll do is when I'm telling that one percent thing with the idle control as far as that goes what I'll do is I'll use the voltage to actually offset it a little bit more so like if I see the car sitting at 0.51 volts I might set the 0.52 just to ensure that when the throttle is closed it will absolutely be zero percent throttle if it's not then you once and you get idle control issues and it comes from that specifically so once that's all set sorry this paper is going a little more than that for now uh basically you can do that there it's all set there so this is your throttle but for ease for ease of use for most people just getting car running just use your throttle position uh your shirt if the opposition wizard right here and you hit you start with zero percent hit start again with 100 percent and it'll configure this table exactly for you but for more advanced users you have the manual calibration right here from there we have manifold pressure settings the default manifold pressure is set up for the stock K series uh for the stock K series maps and so however this we're going to configure it so for me since we do a lot of obviously converted Honda cars we have the Honda four bar map so I actually have a map parameter for that so to kind of go on this once you have your map your your sensor settings set up uh or if you save it you can actually save your sensor calibrations to files so I've already done the Omni 4 bar for example if you guys are wanting Omni four bar settings I think somebody sent me on for it today I already made my calibration for it screenshot right here you can take these settings show them in your car that'll run your Colony Omni four bar map sensor um I would even go as far as maybe into leading these middle middle things right here and see it like this because honestly that's all it is uh but if you want a little more control and like you see like maybe your Maps is doing a little weird stuff you can really add more points more resolution to that to that sensor and really see how it works but that's gonna be a four bar map since your calibration on the hotel you're eating that intake air temperature sensor if you're buying the hall Tech Elite 1500 combo with the jumper um they'll include a GM air intake sensor if you're using that since you will need to set that up here but by default the settings on the actual Altec software are for the default K series IIT sensor if you're wanting to use a GM sensor you're gonna load from file here guys you're going to scroll down to the temperature section GM I think it is I think it's the 204 Hall tech one quarter inch MPT 204 even though Corner TPT fitting but okay hit that one you hit open and then it'll load the new GM IIT calibration so if you're using the GMI T which comes with the uh the haltek jumper which you have to wire up in separately that's all right there you can set that all up there as well coolant temperature that's going to be default should have to change that if you're using default aftermarket sensor same settings I've said I've applied earlier before knock detection the knock sensor is here I on the K series with the the 85 cars I typically Optus to turn this off just because I haven't configured these on these cars yet and then typically we don't run a ton of ignition timing we don't really run in the knock situation so I don't really normally use a knock since we just run super conservative power if you want the knock sensors that's all here that being said the spectrometer for the K series not sensor does not work um so you have to do it by uh by desk by voltage level so it's just it's already the k-series uh dot sensor is already configured for a very specific uh very specific spectrum's audio so when it pings um it actually just send voltage to the sensor so uh this is for more advanced setup when using a Bosch a Bosch style knock detection sensor things like that so you can actually see the full spectrum of sound that's coming from the sensor and then really really tune in um because it's Universal whereas the K series is actually set up for the K series and it is actually mechanically tuned for the K series it's really scale it by uh by duty cycle percentage whatever it is on the knock sensor don't really use it because like I said all cars 85 never really run enough condition time they knock the cars like we don't we don't really we keep everything simple as possible why Bando 2. that's a very specific setup and if you're watching this pay attention to this because it's very important webinar 2 uh exists here so if you have an AEM Hugo or something along those lines you can set that up here I'm not going to show you how this stuff at all I can show you how to set up a general but you're going to hit here input type to analog voltage and then you set the wire to wherever you run the analog the white wire from AEM or whatever I've been using the signal o05 output wire to here you're going to set that here and you have to go through calibration process by using the chief that comes with it right here now what we recommend and what I will always 100 recommend especially especially having to deal with a ton of people that don't know what they're doing wiring wise as far as why Ben goes as I'll just suggest you get the hall Tech can wipe in um so if using that which works way better there's tons of benefits to that specifically the big reasons are that the can wideband detects sensor Readiness which is the big one so if the sensor fails um it won't default to richer Max lean it'll default to hey the censor doesn't work and then we'll completely ignore the O2 sensor or throw DTC code let you know the O2 sensor has died on an analog 0 the 5 volt output sensor it does not do that so if your AEM for instance goes bad it reads Max Rich the car is going to pull Mass fuel out and it's going to run like absolute dog Dukey I had a car like that just the other day where the guy wired the O2 sensor wrong it's a whole thing a long story short got a can wipe in issue resolved so get the k n y ban so when you're setting this up you're gonna hit a sign on the White Band and you select the wb1 because that's what most people wearing on the K series W1 there so we're gonna come Circle back to this specifically actually we'll do it right now screw it there's no script here so the White Band stuff so we have it on the cam so that means it's looking at the canned system for the wide band output so if you go down here where it says haltech can system you can click that you see here this is an important setting that a lot of people get wrong that I've seen over and over and over again the port here so on the front of the ECU which I thought that I had one up here but I guess I do not on the front of the hall Tech ECU there is a four DTM cam Port that you can plug the sensor directly into now a lot of people confuse that think that there is power and ground in that sensor there is not the O2 sensor from haltech comes with an adapter that has a cam plug and then a red and white wire the wire 12 volt and ground into it so you need to wire the power ground separate from that if you plug it directly in the wideband will not work because it is not powered correctly it'll read like it's on but the sensor will read way off because there's no power to the sensor whatsoever so you need a hot or there's minimal power you need to 100 wire that black and black the red and black wire that comes with the hall Tech wideband two power and ground and then plug the whole Tech into that specific sensor once you do that'll work correctly the other thing is if you buy our harness that we made specifically all that is done for you and we put it on the harness side of it and not the front side so you plug it in directly there's no wiring required just plug the cam plug and it works so that sensor I'm talking about on the front side of the ECU when you're playing the Canon that'll be your aux can Port whereas your your main connectors will be in the harness so if you're using our harness for example you're going to change this port from aux can to main connectors that's if you're putting on the harness side and on the ECU itself so once that's done that's good you're going to see that these turn red here on the bottom but that means that there's a conflict so the conflict is that I change this from aux to main that means my vehicle can system which we can completely ignore because we're not using anything can but this is like using a BRZ or things use can can protocol in the car specifically uh that's that's for that you can ignore that for now because I'd say 99 of cars that we're tuning in the space in the Honda space do not use can on the vehicle side so you can ignore that just set that to none that conflict is now gone so we completed the wideband brake pedal switch if you have that you can turn that on turn that off same thing power steering switch on or off if you don't have it and you don't have a power steering switch for example you can open up an input that you didn't have previously by right clicking on that disable I highly recommend it it's good practice to go ahead and disable everything that you're not using as an analog input because that'll give you the full spectrum of what you can use for example if I wanted to install something else like an analog whenever I have a list of all my available inputs or outputs here for me that I can use on the CCU and as you can see I can see everything it's assigned to you for example oil pressure VTEC sensor fuel tank pressure I'm not gonna use any of those in an EG with a case walk so I can delete those and never use them or I can put other sensors in like oil pressure fuel pressure all the sensors in a lot of people get confused when they see this and they think that when they have the elite after they see the map oh there's a one plus the fuel pressure realistically they're assign the things that you don't need on a lot of these cars so fuel tank pressure is not eating before four swap parts one doesn't exist on an egrdk it's an RSX thing oil pressure VTEC can get rid of that brake pedal switch that's optional I typically don't even use them dld switch you can turn that off too you can disable that completely you don't need it uh so all this seems to be disabled you don't need any of those and then that gives you four additional inputs for sensors that you want to run so friends I'm going to do this brake pedal switch disable It Go on uh fuel tank pressure disabled gone electronic load switch disabled gone so now I have multiple inputs now available on the computer so all works there so now we've got sensors closed we're gonna do the fuel tuning now this is where your injector data and things are going to come in and once they said there are more and they're also super important tables in play with this so look at this first tip which is Target Lambda to understand the fuel system works on these cars when you're tuning a haltek ECU you're not tuning uh how much time the injectors open and close what you're doing is you're tuning a ve table ve is a modeling system to see how much air is in each cylinder on each cycle so when we look at this specifically look at our base table for example we're saying 50 down here this is these are five percent so this is 52 down here and at wide open throttle we're seeing anywhere between 85 and 97 200 percent so what we're seeing what this map does effectively is that it it you're modeling how much air is in the cylinder at any given time at one RPM or whatever load so we know that at for example idle will say 23 negative 23 inches of vacuum uh 1000 RPM where 53 is about right with most cars I'd say most cars that have stock cams things like that 53 is about where they're going to be so what that means is that the air getting in the cylinder it's only filling the cylinder about 53 full of air um so we're modeling out with the car so what we're doing is with the car ECU does in real time you guys can understand is it takes your engine displacement down which is why I said that was important earlier and then cross it over with your fuel injector data as well as fuel pressure data and assumes all that stuff together to create your actual injector pulse with so it's it's using that engine model to create the the correct pulse with take your target Lambda so that's it works in conjunction here so I can set this to whatever so if I have this spot on 100 correct and my target Lambda is 14.7 the car should run at 14.7 conversely if I'm running the car and I change this out to say 10 not that I ever would but if I did the car will then go from 14.7 to 10 with no further I don't do any fuel table changes whatsoever if you tune the car correctly it'll hit 10 or be very close within that range because obviously there's gonna be some margin of error for modeling and things like that too but it should get you right in the Wheelhouse so you need to make sure that all the stat is correct and I'm going to make notes of this as we're going to what needs to be done correctly so your target table this can be your target AFR so the ECU if you set everything correctly with your fuel modeling will hit these correctly this is what we're doing at the tuners we're we're building that model correctly so it will always hit your target as long as everything is mechanically sound and all your ever all your data on your ECU matches what's happening in real life that's how it works so your target Lambda this default table is pretty decent pretty straightforward you shouldn't have to make any adjustments to this especially for a base map to get the car started I wouldn't worry about this send me your base map now if you're finding that your car is running say wanting 25 fuel or wanting negative 25 if you don't want anything crazy I would go back first before touching this table go back first through all your injector debt go back through your your engine configuration data your inject your data your fuel pressure data all that data needs to be set correctly if you get something that's wildly off on a stock engine this will not be off it should be within probably five to six percent max on every car on every stock K24 or K20 it should be there but if you're seeing massive discrepancies I would say check your fuel pressure make sure that Maps what you've said in these two and check your injector data make sure that matches correctly on top of that if this is where you can really see if good injector data is good injector data if it's running wrong using their injector data it's way off it means that they're injected out of just wrong a lot of companies do include injector data with their cars but a lot of times it is just generic default stuff and it is not actually accurate to the instead of injectors you were sent so you will have you'll find that sometimes you do have to modify your injector dead times and flow rates to make the uh the teal match up correctly that being said you can really there's two approaches you can basically settle your data correctly to where it matches this table correctly or you can mount this table after you that but there's always some adjustments there so you have your base fuel stuff you don't need to change your fuel Prime pulse you're cranking usually this stuff will start the car every time I wouldn't really worry about that that being said on your Corrections this is uh something I've been doing recently and it works really well delete this coolant temp correction table you don't need it just get rid of it I think call Tech also recommends that you go to Corrections disable your uh code temp correction the reason is because if you look at this table these tables all stack on top of each other so when the car is cold you can see it's adding 10 of fuel now that's about a normal amount of fuel to add or 10 to 20 fuel normally add when the car is cold however you also your posts are correction so in the first like 30 seconds the car is also adding about 30 the car is having like 70 of fuel what you can do is actually take this table and then increase the time on it so now we see that it's scaled by inch and running time so zero to 200 seconds I can actually and then it's also scaled by coolant temperature so my coolant temperature correction table is in my post start correction table and if I really want to make it a permanent crash if it won't temperature I could just add it to this end table and it'll sit there so I put 50 here it'll be 50 until the car goes to 32 degrees and gets warmer and warmer and warmer so you can do that with this setup so I always disable the quantum pressure table and then use my post start question table as my coolant correction table because then you're not confusing yourself and trying to do the math of these two tables stacking on top of each other it just makes your life easier Lambda Corrections same thing uh clone temp I mean this pulls that makes car a little bit richer it's it's roosting thing I usually even go down the 13 and a half when the car's starting cold go from there you can ignore that for now O2 control this can be based on your wideband setup no setting to be changed here to start the car don't worry about that you can leave that as is um just make sure it's set up to your wideband one not a big deal um Transit all you can ignore so this is the next big table that we're gonna get to which is going to be your stage one uh injections this is your fuel injector settings for people warning it's not outright said that it's injection so it's kind of weird to figure that out um but stage one will be your stage one of injectors so the reason this is relevant is called stage one for those who are uninitiated they have a 2500 ECU for example that runs eight injectors you're running eight injectors you can run them in stages so you can have once four injectors run most of the time and then when you go on a high boost whatever you have the second stage come on or split them to get more more fuel so stage burner on one stage running 1500 there's only four injectors we only worry about eight so we're on a stage one very transpiring and we see but your dead time's gonna live here and your flow rate's gonna live here so in whatever setup needs to be here you need to make sure this data 100 reflects whatever data you got from the injector company if you don't have you can get generic stuff but you really have to dial that stuff in to make it cracking going back like I said about the base fuel table if you're finding that your fuel is way off and your motor is stock um you're gonna need to really go through this and dial on these injector settings as well as your other settings as well your fuel your fuel tuning settings I have not gone over yet which I will in a second so make sure it's all correctly now the quick answer for a quick question which I know that people have as well is what if my table on my fuel injectors only has say five settings so the easy way to do that you see this table right here has all these these columns right click the the screen table access setup and then you can delete so for instance I know a lot of injector companies have 8 10 12 and 14 so I can actually delete the values there uh right there so now I reduce that table and now I can also put the injector data in so I can do that from there so all that injector data is there it's ready to go and once that's set that's all good one same thing for the flow rate if you need to adjust it by fuel pressure you could set that fuel pressure here that is going to be your ejector pressure differential so I know ID for example has a lot of their their uh things scaled by pressure differential as well so you can go ahead and set those up most people are going to scale their introduce by 43.5 PSI so you can use that as your default if you don't know what the pressure is it likely is going to be 43.5 PSI the same thing goes for dead times ID for example scales their injector dead times both by pressure as well so it's not just by voltage just by voltage and pressure so you can really build a 3D table if you want to do that right click table access enable access inject your pressure differential I can then put in whatever I want for that for instance 43 and a half 50 60 or the normal common values that's there and then I can build a 3D table so then what happens with this and the reason you want to do this for example is say you have an alternator or bad wiring situation where the alternator dies off on the top end your dead time is going to change your battery voltage change that being said wide open throwing aren't going to see that big difference too much let's say your alternator dies and your cars cruising at low speed you're going to see that difference immediately so you can actually scale your dead Times by fuel pressure and voltage so with both those things there with a fuel pressure sensor on top it'll actually scale through the whole thing at the same time as well so you're really getting accurate data whereas the computer normally without Those sensors you'd have to model it and through the EC was just guessing based on ideal situations you can actually be okay I have a fuel pressure sensor and then it'll adjust this on the Fly basing your fuel pressure sensor reading as well so that's all there same thing for flow rate what we see is that when people wire the fuel pumps wrong they're not enough juice to the fuel pump the fuel pump sources and fuel pressure on the top end so if we have for example a car we have a base fuel pressure of 60 PSI and then we after we set the 60 PSI say we're going to top end the car drops from 6ps 740 PSI like 40 pounds of boost for example um your flow rate because the fuel pressure is not the same was actually going to change you need to scale your flow rate per pressure and most most companies come with that and all of them do just make sure you're doing all that as well because then once again it comes down to Accurate modeling if you have that data more data is better data is King once again that's that's the most important part so you're really focusing on the model that being said a lot of injector companies also only come with one row of this so you can really run it that way and you should be fine as long as your O2 settings are correct and everything it will make that correction however if you can really set your model up correctly to run this correctly um the car will run almost without using the sensors almost entirely as far as the O2 and stuff goes but this is just more of a fail safe you just want to put as much data in to get as close as possible because when something goes wrong which inevitably it probably will you want to make sure that your tune is on point in every single way so thinking injectors have the correct data which is why I'm a really big advocate for things like ID ditch Works fuel injector Clinic those major companies that have the ton of data this is super important I know I've spent a lot of time talking about this specifically but I really want to handle this home that this is a very very very important step that a lot of people get confused and thinking that because injectors use the same Bosch core that they're the same thing that is not the truth it really what you're buying when you're buying injectors is injector data and this is where it comes in super important and you can see it immediately if the injector data is wrong by looking at the tool map when you tune the car if it looks off it's because the injector down nine times out of ten is wrong so most comments like I said good companies will give you good data but a lot of companies you just give you generic data that is not accurate and it's it's frustrating but it's part of the job so it is what it is that being said if you're only making this to start the car on cruise I would not be super concerned with this but if you're building if you're doing car and try to tune the car yourself that is King make sure you get a ton of data so I did give her one piece of puzzle when we were talking about fuel stuff we actually need to hit the fuel tuning folder or the fuel tuning category as well which is the top top level of the fuel tuning section um but I don't know how to skip this important thing I'm just doing this on the Fly um but we're gonna see here so we're gonna go through all these settings here so we have tuning method which is volumetric efficiency volumetric efficiency is the way you're going to tune this car do not change the setting um there are multiple ways you can tune it that's mass airflow injection timing fuel flow rate efficiency only don't do anything else it's gonna be easy with you in the car other piece of the puzzle this comes back to the modeling argument that I've been talking about before fuel type your fuel type needs to match exactly what's going on in the car or close like super close this is not as important as the other stuff but it is also very important obviously you can't put 85 and whatever so um if you if you model this correctly uh if you model your fuel table correct and all that data I've said correctly and you tune the car on say for instance in Oklahoma where we are with all our E85 pumps all our 85 pumps are 68 ethanol with that being said good ethanol petrol blend by default will be 85. even though it's 85 ours is 68. it's all about getting an accurate modeling so 68 if you don't have a fuel comp if you don't have a fuel composition sensor for the flex fuel sensor um you can set this here and this should be close now the cool thing about this is that if you tune the car say in Oklahoma 68 and we tune this exactly on the dot and 68 is spot on correct and then we put the car on pump gas without switching the sensor without at all changing anything I can go from here from ethanol to petrol and the call will run the same obviously they make ignition timing change something like that but the fuel map will be almost spot on perfect because this is based on your fuel density um that's what the scalar is for is your fuel density and the fuel fuel stoic metric value and things like that too these are all background settings you do have the option changes those are very advanced settings um I don't typically think that anyone watching this would really care about that too much however you can so I do like I said in Oklahoma since we are running E85 uh with 68 outsets number 68 if you test your fuel you know it's 85 so this 85. that being said and I want to make this a very Clear Point with ethanol stuff too I would not I would not go crazy over the ethanol percentage of your fuel if you if you set this to say 85 and you tested 70 don't worry about it you'll be fine as long as your O2 controllers are set up um it'll cover everything you don't need to worry about it that much it's not that big of a deal but it does help it does give you more accurate modeling but don't be freaking out over your fuel being five percent less ethanol your fuel changes aren't going to be a lot I'd say five to ten between 70 to 85 even 60 to 85 like you're not going to see a huge difference between the fuel so I wouldn't I would not because a lot of a lot of people do it I would not stress over the percentage of ethanol in the fuel uh if it's if it's within like 785 now I'm talking about 25 or 30 yes there's a big difference there but if you're doing anywhere between 65 to 85 just set this whatever I assume there are fuel here is 68 so I said 68 but I put the 85 with 68 Fuel and I'll still be fine I wouldn't be concerned especially a customer kind of say as well I don't know what their feels gonna test that I'll just have the 85 and that'll be fine all the O2 control take over um for that specific instance because like I said it's not gonna be that far off um it'll be close enough where it's very much in the range the real thing we're looking for is if you're ltfts or short-term programs go huge which you're not going to see huge fuel traps from like I said 68 to 85 not gonna be huge okay so once I've got off my soapbox there fuel load type map sensor blah blah blah you're going to do some map sensor now if you're doing an ITB car that's a more advanced throttle position sensor is definitely a way you can do it I'm just gonna say map since for now because 98 of people are not running ATVs or anything like that like we are for race car for example and even then resume options for the race car um just sell this map since you leave it there this is very important part as well fuel pressure input type constant or map reference so if you're running a turbo car ideally you want to do a map reference a map reference what this means the setting specifically means is do you have a vacuum line running to your fuel pressure regulator um the reason is specifically and to explain it in in very basic and Broad terms is that when your car raises boost obviously pressure builds up in the manifold that pressure acts on the front of the injector so then the fuel pressure the fuel pump has to overcome the pressure inside the manifold um so the what what fuel pressure regulators do is they add fuel pressure on the rail to build overcome the pressure inside the intake manifold so you're wanting to do that especially if you're doing a turbo car if you're doing all motor car you don't have to do that in real estate you just want to leave it constant then it'll use the constant 45. what you're really seeing is that when you have a turbo car for example and you have your base pressure at 60 PSI and the car runs 20 pounds of boost the car then needs from the fuel pump 80 psi of pressure to inject fuel into the car appropriately um so that's where the fuel pressure regulator comes in it scales up the fuel pressure from the fuel pump by restricting the flow and then that overcomes the pressure from the intake manifold itself and that is how you uh that's how it all works as far as I go to one to one fuel pressure regulator setup so if you have a turbo car changes the map reference and then run it back in line to your fuel pressure regulator if you do not have a turbo Chrome motor car you don't have to you can set the constant that being said if the line is in there without motor car change up map reference but typically what we'll do is leave the fuel pressure radiator open and then crank up the pressure and leave it up um very important setting as well that's also very important so that's very important to feel money once again our goal here is to make sure everything on the car matches physically what's in the car to what's on the map because if it is not the computer will not know what's going on because the computer only knows what you tell it base fuel pressure also very important this fuel pressure needs to match the exact pressure on the car or very very close so if you're setting your base pressure to 60 PSI or 43.5 right there for example in Turbo 760 you set at 60 just turn your key on check the pressure turn your regulator up or down and set up there and once that's set you're good to go so make sure this is corrected this is not correct this is another major setting that will massively change your fueling on your car if you do not see this correctly we have a major issue so the recap the important settings we need to do because I think we've covered all the major ones and make sure your engine displacement is correct you make sure your injector data is correct you make sure that your fuel type is correct and they need to make sure that your fuel pressure matches exactly what these you sees once you have all these settings set correctly all your your car honesty should start pretty well and run fine without a problem um and you really that that'll serve that'll guys get you going honestly that's all you need to do for baseball on these cars um on especially on the CCU that being said pronounce ignition there's only nothing to to adjust on ignition stuff uh that's just all your your timing and things like that so everyone see your time and you can do that if you want to that being said if you're doing a basement putt around you're not going in the Boost this map will get you going without a problem I wouldn't really be concerned about it it is uh super conservative uh we're talking 15 degrees timing 11 pounds boost uh we are way down on timing for that specific setup um so there's another thing I can see here this is I'm really at this point now going down tools of the trade as far as how this is set up and how my Approach is there's another Tim owner this is Junior called zero demand timing um zero demand timing basically is a a standalone timing table that is set up when your car is at zero load and sitting at idle for example or when you come off throttle so um what I see typically in k-series cars is they want to idle anywhere between five to seven degrees of timing if not less um even I think default Honda they honestly I don't like zero degrees of timing to negative five degrees of timing on average I'm really getting the ZTS up I add tiny into them to keep the engine cool um that being said completely delete this table and call Tech even suggests running directly off the actual base table and then so like I would set if I want to run off the base table I'll set this to 16 degrees and I would idle that at 60 degrees or how many degrees I want to set for example I wanted the zero demand table outside seven it would match you can do the same exact thing as your domain table is doing on that being said what I have found and typically if you don't have an iacv for example and you run ignition based idle tuning this table comes in super handy because it works as a base level for your ignition ignition Advance on your idle and then the eye of the ignition Advance actually works off the zero Demand versus working off this table so if really it just makes it easy but also being said you can set this to seven and be fine too like that's that works as well but I I take about zero man because it just gives me I like the one line that's all but um you can disable this edition of the zero ignition zero demand admission table that's now gone um initiative honestly nothing Mission tuning sections be changed until you're ready to start cleaning the car with ignition timing and things like that you can always just to know this whole section engine functions now this is going to be uh we're gonna talk about optional things because I know that in general people will be doing certain specific things with the car for instance turbo cars are going to be there as well I'm gonna walk through some of these settings as well um so feel if I'm being ignore this could be your default fuel pen uh whatever it's all there so you can set that all there idle control uh this is for default for the k-series iacv um you can set this up these settings are great for the ICD you don't worry about it if you're not using a uh iacv specific setup someone asked me specifically sorry I saw lentil tell them and asked if I have a mechanical turn off the fuel pump I mean people are doing it's just it's just the output for the fuel pump you can just turn it off um that being said it doesn't matter if it's on or off using mechanical because mechanical is going to turn on no matter what so you can ignore that um but you can just also right click and disable fusing mechanical fuel pump idle control you can use your idle control setup so if you're using a idle air control valve bact wire with all these default settings work fine if using ignition only you can click this here and click ignition only and then set that up via the ignition control table so if I change this to ignition only for example you see all those base duty cycle tables disappear no longer there the only thing I have is Target RPM Target offset ignition correction all that stuff um and you can set these tables up however you want to as far as ignition goes that being said the default table will get you going I typically massage that quite a bit um but that's that's beyond the scope of today as far as that goes but if you have the iecv use this I highly recommend using an ITV to be honest with you I can't explain why people get rid of it um there's no excuse to get rid of it it drives me insane people get rid of it um if you want your car to run great every time and never worry about it leave the ICU in the car um that's just my that's just my thoughts um leave that there uh cam control this can be all right it's gonna be a VTC setup if you're using a B series car for example this is not applicable it's not gonna be your based off anyway don't change these settings on here this will um I do find that typically the base duty cycle on the cam control might be a little low and sometimes it does undershoot the Target if that's the case when you're tuning the car change your base duty cycle table go up by five ten percent until it starts hitting Target or overshoots and pull it back down you can also change that via the pids which is definitely beyond the scope of this video today um but for an advanced shooter you'll have two caddies and things like that as well to get that working correctly cam control switched this is very very very very important for Honda people guys this is your Vtec control so this is how you're setting for VTEC uh so this is kind of honestly appear if you if you live with Honda very similar to the Honda with your men load on and off things like that too so you can have that all here you also have preconditions as well for your Vtec so for example if I'm cruising on the highway um I don't always want to eat at the crack at 3 500 RPM or 4000 RPM wherever I'm at if I have like a six-speed RSX transmission so I can actually set the minimum TPS say hey don't crack VTEC somewhere over 60 throttle for example um that's very important if you want to keep your gas mileage you can have VTEC turned off that being said I'll go back to a fuel tuning strategy here as well if you're wanting to do this and you like the way the Honda Tunes with the low cam High cam the really cool thing with Hall Tech is that it is super flexible now I don't use dual map tuning that often If Ever I did it with my white car but then I found that I was stupid sometimes I would forget which table is which um but if you want to have a low Cam and a high cam sale for example you want to tune the car where it's off of v-tack and tune the comments on VTEC you go to your base fuel map table right click table access setup enable access now we go here select Channel run changes to cam control switch state so type in cam control switch State I know we're really getting in the weeds but I'm just given some tips and tricks a lot of a lot of knowledge here I guess uh cam control switch output state so we have we can make a zero and a one so zero obviously means off one means on so see now we've now created what is known as a 3D fuel table it's not a 4D fuel table so now this map right here for off is when the VTEC is off and then I go on I now have a server tail from the VTEC is on now were this is important or this works is if you're really messing with these Camera 12 switch table settings and you don't want to hire a VTEC come on every time the exact RPM you really want to be able to cruise cart Highway whatever and then like keep your miles per gallon and things like that you'll be able to tune the car at higher RPMs above where your normal beats at Crossroad be when you're low throttle no load and then you're able to tune the VTEC table completely separately and then the call will just run significantly better without because what happens we have the O2 control in that area specifically it'll go kind of wonky when you're not always hitting B Tech in the same spot because then the O2 control expected to always hit b-tech or not always a VTech in that same spot and I only probably super lean or a super rich spot depending on which way you're going with the car at that time so you can do that dual map I typically don't I honestly will set my VTEC just a hard limit I'll just do this and set them both to say if I'm doing a k-series car I'll send them both 50 500 so it's always acting 5500 no matter what because my car has low gearing in sixth gear so I don't ever cross over VTEC just cruising the car but if you are running like you said a six-speed all motor transmission for example a lot of times you are going to be cruising at 75 70 75 mile an hour range um and you're going to be up there in RPM so that's kind of a solution so you can do that if you're wanting to do something long term I'm going to take a little more effort but honestly it's not that much effort and it does work uh quite a bit better but I just typically opt not to do that just because requires more time on my side um on top of that like I said in in my actual experience as far as when I'm driving my personal car I don't typically run in that issue because my car does not rev high on the highway I run 80 miles an hour like 2500 rpm because I have a super long super long sixth gear I'm in a super long final drive my car because I did a customer service in my car specifically for that issue um that being said if you're wondering how to do that that's how you do that thermofan um this where you can say for fan control I suppose I said it's 180 175. so they'll turn on 180 and then it'll turn off 125 and that's how you're inside your fan you can set that where we want to but that's what that setting is um and it's all set so if that's pretty straightforward engine protection not gonna go through this this is this beyond the scope of this video but if you want to set up all your safeties for instance for oil pressure fuel pressure coolant pressure um O2 sensor failure uh all that stuff that's all here so you have three level severity uh and you can set your severity through the Diagnostics tab on each individual parameter on your ECU once again be honest with this video but that's there now another important setting is gonna be your main limiter landlord's gonna be RPM um the RPM limiter so um the cool thing on this table once again and this is once again going beyond the scope but I'm going to do it this is tools of trade one of my secrets I guess I could call it um you could scale this by anything uh in case you won't ring and a lot of like you'll see this map it's by coolant temperature I can make this for example I'm going to do it by vehicle speed for example say I want to do a three-step launch control strategy of some sort which is an advanced tuning thing which I'm not super happy giving away how it all works but that's there so you have your vehicle speed so now I have it by coolant temperature and vehicle speed um let's say we launched the car five miles an hour five two step at seven thousand I don't want the car to exceed 7500 because I know that if it does on the hit at least five miles an hour I know that it's spinning so I can set a hard limiter at 7 500 RPM and then I can go by mile an hour 8 000 and then at the top end of the track 8 800 I can also do this uh this is how you would set up for like a launch control situation that being said I can also change that single coolant temperature line to only speed which is what I normally do so I don't know why I decided to do it this way but I did as you guys can kind of see there is that now I have a a rolling rev limiter by speed now um anyone that races knows why that's important um if you have no idea why it's important I strongly recommend that you experiment with this setting and play with that um but there's that so that's that's that for now that being said vehicle speed is not going to be the setting we use for three seconds rear wheel speed sensor um for that specifically because your front speed will always be directly linked to the RPM but rear wheel speed is not because it is an undriven wheel so if you have real oil speed sensor setup and you want to do three-step that's how it's done um it's not an outright setting in the hall Tech it is something you have to manually set up for the RPM limiter so that's there D cell settings I find that the holiday diesel settings are uh ridiculously long um so if you are a big pop bang crackle tune person the default settings are fine it doesn't shut off the injectors for five seconds after you left the throttle um I usually say this around 500 milliseconds to a thousand milliseconds um so once half a second to a full second even a high RPM um because when you come off the throttle this five second thing the car will pop and bang non-stop um for for a while until you get back on throttle so um I like I said I too we said this around like a thousand um in low speeds 500 um around there but that's just the dump setting uh that's not gonna affect your drivability that's just uh it's a fuel burning situation uh electrical we can enroll this um now if you're running like a weird swap car this would be very applicable to people like MR2 people um or really uh really specific swap chassis sometimes I need a stable submission switch and the way you could tell you to disable this Edition switch is if you go to if you make a new table for Diagnostic shooter diagnostic Tab and you look at your engine limiting function when this is on if this shows that your ignition switch the factor even though your key is on just turn the instant switch function off not all wiring harnesses are wired with ignition switches um this is just so these you know was when the fire the pump and everything you can turn this off and let the car run um it'll work fine you can do it that way that's also linked to engine control really which links your main relay once again these two things do not have to be on that being said for a swap car or an RSX this stuff will stay on because this all works with that but for weird swap cars for example like an MR2 240SX on those lines and all these cars will have the ignition switch so you don't need to do that if you find your car is not starting that's probably the reason why you can like I said you know the Diagnostics tab check engine limiting function it'll tell you exactly why the car is not starting if your car is not starting sometimes and that might it also tells you specifically if it's triggers in the car starting a lot of times the trailer wheel when people do the oil pump mod is backwards um for instance I just had a guy I just I helped out his name is Sean he had a uh a K24 swap Civic we used telescope and found out that his uh his cam gear actually was missing an entire tooth and that's why his car wouldn't start um all that will live here until your account um and exactly why maybe the fuel was turned off why the ignition is turned off it all lived here on this Diagnostics page so you can look at that however you want to that's something to be changed transmission stuff now we're beyond the point of making a base map honestly if you want to know how to make a basement you could start at the fuel tuning stop because that would have been enough to start the car gear ratios and stuff this weird transmission stuff is all working here selector position type uh sorry gear ratio is gonna be a thing you can set your gears what drive it is gear ratio so the drive is very important if you're running real wind speed or front wheel speed um and things like that so make sure you're setting this setting just once again it all comes down to the basic concept of everything on this map needs to match mechanical what's actually happening on the car if it doesn't you'll run an issues so just make sure everything is correct year ratios if you're wanting to have your car have gear ratio for instance want to do Boost by gear for example um what you're gonna do is put the car in first gear drive the car on first hit calibrate put the car in second hit calibrate third calibrate fourth calibrate fifth calibrate this calibrate and then it'll determine it's it's always knows where the gear issues it scales your RPM by speed creates a gear ratio from there uh we're starting to wrap up on this video guys so if you have any questions be sure to leave it down in the chat right now uh probably about five minutes away from finishing this part up and once you do there I have some questions if there's any left and if not we'll go ahead and get off this video um and go from there so other part of this vehicle functions very important people ask about air conditioning it is supported um that being said with something like an RSX or an ep3 where the AC does run off the can system um you will need to do some finesse to make that work correctly but it can we have done it before um that being said you really using a wiring switch input for your AC switch which for example just give you an example of the RSX you can put a micro switch under the factory switch and use that as the switch and then for the AC input uh sorry for the output all you gotta do is wire direct wire from the uh from the ECU directly to the uh to a relay to the uh to the actual compressor itself and that will make the AC work correctly or use the factory wiring the factory wiring from the RSX does work correctly um and works correctly from there check engine light doesn't even change Taco doesn't need to be changed however really cool thing with this as well which uh is an aside from the K series B series guys I did a J series swap on my car so a V6 engine swap and a lot of people use things like the daktronics box to convert the six signal pulse to a four-cylinder pulse that is all handled inside the hall Tech itself so if I have for example if I put like a V12 in my Civic um I could change the pulses per cycle and it would match and then Works my attack and my Integra with the j35 in it does work correctly because of this setting so I know pulses per cycle I have six balls per cycle instead of four or whatever it's all there so I can set that all there and then it actually does work correctly uh and I don't do any extra additional wiring for my uh for my attack that being said you do need to wire the output to your factory attack if you are using something that does not for example this is a very specific setting for people that are using the OBD1 cars the T1 cam trigger um when you do the T1 cam trigger by default your attack will not work because you have completely changed the trigger system as long as you wire the output from a18 to your factory trigger which will be on your uh your your tarnus plug or your c101 plug or whatever it's not C1 plug organ directly direct to the harness attack output um use this setting use that there then I'll output your T1 trigger to your default Dash and it'll work correctly so very simple you not super hard if you have questions that let me know going back to our generics now um so to be very specific when our timeout since you can delete all pressure VTEC is the completely unneeded sensor get rid of that entirely don't need it reverse lockout if you have a six-speed trans it works you can use it here um if you don't have a six speed you can also get rid of that that opens another output and then if you have a VSS out so this would be very specific if you're doing something like a if you're using the default RSX Type S harness or honestly any case all Partners in a car you don't need this however I didn't previous video with the counter shaft speed sensor for instance in my white hatch is a countertop speed sensor so with that being said that is a high frequency signal whereas in the in the past with uh hondata cars you have to buy the k200 VSS converter that box once you have the same thing with the with the RPM like with the J series that box is built into the ECU itself so you can actually set up a VSS out the settings by default work pretty well I have found that I need to change the the Duty Cycles just a tiny bit to make them completely accurate but but this does work you can use that as well if you're using a CSS maybe in the VSS like the default RSX Type S swap you don't need changes at all but if you aren't you do that and then I have a video once again setting up the wire on this and you can do that from there um so last bit of information that we're going to cover is the data log setup which is very important all this is here uh just set up your data log parameters how it's enabled throughout position you can set up all your settings here as well um and honestly I think that's more or less it I don't know why I started from a video about setting up a base map to uh walking through and giving all the hints and tips as far as all the problems that I went through the past year trying to figure out the ECU and things like that but hopefully this gives you guys a good starting point for things on how it all works once you get the car started you will need to sync the timing and make sure everything's good on that side before you're able to really start doing tuning that being said if you're wanting to just get the car running and drive around the block and not go wide open throttle and not do anything crazy you really don't need the same timing from the get-go it should run fine it might run a little sluggish it might not but usually my experience usually it'll run fine enough just around and drive around to break it in but do not under any circumstances beat on the car without your timing set because it could very well be a lot of degrees Advanced and it could very well blow up your engine so if you just shot in the car up I wouldn't worry about it it'll start the car the default trigger set as well if it doesn't you have another problem um whether it's Tam sensor TDC wiring sensor issue crank sensor wiring issue crank sensors bad pulse plates are wrong backwards all that stuff um what I've shown you at the beginning should start your car almost every time and if it does not you have another issue that needs to be diagnosed and that's where the skill comes in with really diagnosing the building space not part's not hard it's really the hardest part is really learning how to identify issues and then how to correctly assess them and repair them and a lot of people bang their heads against the wall for a long time trying to figure yourself out without having the actual knowledge of being able to diagnose so what I would say is a big takeaway for this entire stream is outside of this base outcomes this isn't really a skilled part of it is learn exactly what your car Wants What It should expect and then build that knowledge base and go from there because that's really how you're going to be successful in learning how to tune your own car you know everything well so I'm going to answer some questions looks like we only have like one or two so not a ton of questions I just want to say first off thanks for everyone for tuning in for this live stream it makes me a lot easier to do this live than it is to make a whole video and do it I'm sorry that I ramble a little bit but hopefully everything I told you had some sort of insight or information to help you out with stuff and hopefully answered someone's question might be struggling with setting up your computer as well but if you have any questions be sure to ask them now because I'm going to answer a quick question or two and then I'm going to hop off here and we're gonna jump right back on top and get that car ready wired and set up so question I have from Jin tack Gen X tasty sorry uh dry bar setup throttle setup in the normal throttle selection uh I'm not entirely sure what you're asking but if you're asking about setting up drive by wire specifically um so the really cool thing is on the top left hand corner you just type in drive by wire and then what that is I'll pop it up here you're just gonna turn this function on it's gonna be the thing hey hey like if you kill yourself it's not our fault except that um and then you're gonna step your wiring set up all your uh all of your uh your wiring assignments and things like that on top of that whenever your drywall is done you can turn off sensors like your TPS for example you don't need that anymore that can be completely selected um on top of that what I would do is once you set that up be sure and I've seen this I had to help someone out this recently is that when you go to engine functions make sure you change your idle control after you set up the driveway wire settings through the drive wire function from control method the ACT wire to drive by wire and now what that'll do is and then you can set your uh your whole thing on the big section the check window unit Drive wire sections is your DBW Max position drop wire Max position so I had a friend of mine has a he has an MR2 local here I have the 90 millimeter grams throttle body which is huge and what happens is typically most your air rushes in the engine the first like five ten percent of the throttle opening that's when the vacuum cracks and all the fuel all the air rushes in what happens with a 90 millimeter throttle body is 10 on 90 millimeter thought about is a lot of air um that's honestly way too much for an adult situation so if you have a really large throttle body the strap out wire this number wants to be around four or five if not less um but if you're like like for instance my white car has a a k-tune 74 millimeter throttle body on it drive by my throttle body um and minus at the 10 because my throttle is way smaller so the air is not as intense as far as changes go um the problem is that when you're when your idle is adjusting it's going to do like half to one percent back and forth changes and if the change is too large especially with a huge thought it's doing it relative to this and up to this Max number so if you have 10 Max and it's making a one percent adjustment across that 10 that one percent adjustment on ten is really like a half percent adjustment on a four percent situation so you're really changing the resolution for how much your throttle is opening and closing on the idle control and if it's too big on a big throttle body you will have a terrible time and that is what I found out and I've learned since then it took me a little bit to figure that out but you want to change your max position down to a smaller number if you're using a big throttle body but for your standard throttle body is like a 62 to a 74. you can use around eight to ten and then really build your uh your base Duty title table around that um but that that's what changes resolution as far as your base duty cycle table it is applied That Base duty cycle is applied basically if you do 40 if you do 50 on 10 it's five percent TPS um and then basically you go four percent of that if you two four percent max CPS at a 50 level it then goes from that five percent to two percent so you're changing the just the amount of throttle opening at idle and you really want to make sure you dial that in because if you don't have a heck of a time trying to get the card idle correctly next question I got from Martin Morgan Flex Fuel setups instead of fixed ethanol content in the fuel section honestly pretty straightforward under the fuel section guys what I saw it earlier all you do literally is if you have a flex fuel sensor you need to go to your sensor setup enable the fuel composition fuel composition sensor so I can type that here fuel composition flexible composition enable that the default settings should work set your your wiring setup so I can whatever wire it's set to once that's set up it's there from there I go to my fuel tuning section so this that shows that you can set the sensor up without setting up to flex fuel in the car so you can actually see your fuel composition without making the car make adjustments so if you set up your fuel pressure sensor you need to make sure you go back to your fuel tuning section and then change your fuel type to flex fuel when you change the flex fuel it will then reference your fuel compensation sensor to honestly so you want to go back to the fuel ethanol petrol blend for example I'll come with 85 versus 68 yada yada when you sex this the when you set this to flex fuel it will automatically do that scaling and what we found that typically is that your fuel tuning won't change because haltech has a really good system in place an underlying table that actually scales your fuel correctly by ethanol percentage so you don't have to actually really tune by ethanol percentage that being said there are tables and play couples together as you can modify and make a change we haven't really seen that what we do change so however is the ignition timing because that's where your powers are made with ethanol so make sure you're scaling your ignition timing correctly because if you don't and you're running ethanol timing when your car is on gasoline if you're not gonna have an engine very long so make sure you're doing your scaling on that so to kind of show how that works for example under ignition tuning Corrections uh we can go initial tuning sorry did I not turn this on hold on fuel tuning okay we're on Flex Fuel correct so the flexible setup uh so normally when this turns on I think it's because the I'm on the wrong firmware at the moment when you turn on your Flex Fuel your ignition tuning will come in with a oh sorry it's under Corrections fuel comp correction so you have a fuel composition scalar and a fuel composition correction so the correction is how much you can see by default holiday has a pretty decent table because typically on ethanol versus gasoline you're going to see about five to six degrees ignition timing difference at load so what you would do in this situation is you would tune your base table to gasoline so my ignition table for example would be gasoline and then this table right here is an Adder on top of that table so what we see here is if I set this whole table to five for example just to make this easy after zero when it crosses over to boost so five PSI or five degrees timing what would happen then is that when it gets to here from here to here would add five on top of your default table so if we were running for example say this one 15 degrees across the entire body unless it's clearly unrealistic just to make the example at zero degrees at zero PSI and up if we're at 15 degrees on our gasoline map and on E85 we wanted to add five degrees of timing when he got to 85 by default when it's when it sees less than whatever you're set to it'd be 15 degrees and then as you go up it would add that five percent of ignition timing in through the scalar which is your fuel compensation scale right here now you can see that there's this number right here now these numbers here are the percentage of how much of the scalar table that you're using so if I am using uh for example if I wanted full timing in at 85 you can see you're 80 something 98 which is honest almost 100 to 100. if I want full timing at 60 I can set it to at 60. so I can start I can I can bleed in the additional ignition timing whenever I want to which is this table so this correction table sits on top of your ignition table but then is set it to percentage based on the scalar table I hope that makes sense um but that's how it's set up so if that makes sense for you cool if not whatever but hopefully that that should make that easy for you and then once it said with the fuel you typically won't have to adjust that but in the cases you do which I I have seen never seen it had to be changed to be honest with you but if you did same thing Corrections it works the exact same way as the ignition scaler does correct and a scaler it's all there so if you want to do the same thing like okay well the car for example wants like another 20 fuel up top I can have 20 there and then once again here at 100 whatever it's going to scale that 20 in per uh how you set this compensation scalar table so that's how that works I'm glad okay I see Martin says that makes sense that's great if anyone has any other questions as far as Hall Tech tuning whatever I'll answer them right now but otherwise it doesn't like we have anything else going on as far as that goes so what I have to do is go work on this race car they're going for the all motor tour it's a five race series going on through the country I think we're going first race to April 15th at holiday Maryland followed by Honda Day New England out in uh New Hampshire and then I take another Maryland race followed by uh streetcar Takeover in Indiana and then I believe that Luke is working on getting a uh race for Florida soon um so if we can get that that's cool um but we're just getting ready for that guys so we're making content it's it's coming the problem is right now is that specifically we all work on the race car and being all motor and being super competitive uh don't want to give away everything that we're doing at the moment but we are doing a lot and I promise you content is coming I just want to hop on here make this video easy for people to understand how this ECU works and just the big take what I want you guys to take is that when you're tuning these ecu's is that what you're doing is you're modeling what is actually happening to the engine um so your goal is to to make everything that is mechanical in real life happen and the ECU this ECU is more or less simulating what's actually happening in real-time running simulations and then applying it in real time and then running Corrections based off of that so really if your data is not good in the ECU it will not be good on the output so a lot of problems to be run into these issues specifically is that the data is bad and once again the big the big things you need to really look at get good injectors if you don't get good injectors with good data you're going to be banging your head against the wall trying to figure some stuff out especially when I've experienced any dead times the flow rates you're going to run into some pain trying to figure that out but once you get it it's not it's pretty smooth sailing um Olympus puzzles make sure engine into placement set correctly make sure your fuel type set correctly make sure your fuel pressure matches correctly um and then like I said if you have a default Engine with stock cams stock compression all that stuff the default map should run it pretty close pretty close to on point might need some minor adjustments here there um but if you're running like a VTEC color setup for example you're probably going to make some pretty significant changes to make the car run as far as fueling goes things like that um or if running a very aggressive cam um but typically the stock I mean even aftermarket cams usually don't have a super aggressive profile on the low cam um but when you're doing a very aggressive low cam or a very aggressive cam um you will typically see the fuel table changes significantly um specifically and a lot of times you can really judge it by vacuum I know that around negative 20 inches of uh inches of mercury uh the car wants around 50 to 60 percent ve whereas when you're in a VTEC killer situation when the car pulls maybe three vacuum um the cart really doesn't want anything it wants like 20 to 30 percent of fuel um but that's all there um but yeah father and all we got Ian in here Ian says uh learn some then still intimidating without so bad yeah it's a it's pretty uh there's a lot going on I'm only scratching service this is really setting up the base map stuff and going from there and then I see what ass D series turbo kisses on the plans no that's not gonna happen sorry there's not a market for D series stuff there's not enough money in D series stuff we're not going to make D series stuff at that level as much as we'd like to it's just the Market's not there we never will so hopefully that answers all your guys's questions for now I appreciate you guys jumping this live stream uh we will have more stuff like this in the future I assume um if not follow us on Instagram we do lives there too as well um but hopefully this answers a lot of your hall Tech questions and things like that as well um this can go as deeper as you want to we're really just scratching the surface and there's a lot of power in this ECU and I'm a strong believer in the hall Tech issue because of the flexibility and power that we are afforded to it that honestly I haven't seen in any other ECU maybe minus motec so um if you want to know any promote go for it totally totally totally cool you can do that um but if you want the most cost effective ECU that will work correctly with what you're wanting to do and things like that um you can go from there um but yeah Russell Johnson says my boosted B16 with rods of Pistons overheat when I drive it sounds like a mechanical issue that's not gonna be a tuning issue um it could be a tuning issue for sure but I would argue it's probably mechanical and I would I would diagnose other mechanical issues first considering it's overheating that being said it could be caused by car running lean or uh too much power too much timing lifting the head things along those lines that's definitely a possibility but I would definitely go first and find the mechanical shoe first and then work backwards from there because it's obviously mechanical issue first and then you figure out what caused mechanical issue but you need to find the mechanical issue before you blame one thing first so find a mechanical issue figure out what it is go from there but hopefully that answers all you guys the questions be sure to follow us on Instagram Facebook all the stuff follow YouTube we have more videos coming uh we will have race content in April 100 guaranteed so that's coming uh cars should be started up and tuned hopefully the next couple weeks or so uh we'll go from there uh Gen X Tracy asks is the gap from haltek G4 plus really that drastic having done a couple G4S uh Hardware wise it's great like uh G4 has a lot of advanced features a very fast processor a lot of memory huge data logging capabilities um that being said I am not the hugest fan of the software on that side uh it's very taxing on a computer which I find really odd especially because I have a pretty strong workstation um but I mean I I have nothing negative to say but I there's nothing outright that's abhorently bad about it but um it's just not preferred ECU and then we don't have a ton of time we only spent on Hall Tech but the uh as far as features and things like that in the G4 versus Hall Tech I'm not super comparable to be honest with you they're both more or less the to the same every time a hardware choose it's something that in my opinion most people never notice um but that's that's a whole nother discussion for another day um that being said the ECU is very capable I've seen plenty of people go fast on it I would have no issues recommending it um I just it's just not my preferred it's something we spend day in day out and I think that a little one last piece I'll leave you guys on is that when it comes ecu's and what I see happen a lot in my opinion is that a lot of people watch YouTube videos they'll watch Facebook they'll see the racers or whatever ever actually consult a tuner on what ECU they need with their car or what their teenage capable of that being said like I said uh I'm from link G4 is a great ECU I would not recommend you bringing us a latent G4 ECU if you want the best possible outcome for your ECU that's not to say that we're not capable of tuning the ECU it's to say that we don't do it day in day out so if we don't spend thousands of hours on Lane G4 obviously will not be as good as someone that spends thousands of hours link G4 so what I would say in a very I've been meaning to make a video on this specifically too and I haven't but I should is that when you're buying your engine when you're building a car as much as people like to say that they built the car themselves so they're doing something themselves unless you're truly literally doing everything yourself you're never doing it yourself and what you really need to think about when you're building a car that's going to go faster turbo if you need to think about it as a team or as a unit and if you are trying to do something without letting your teammates know that you're doing it it's not going to work out well so what I would suggest is if you're looking at engine management for your car first select the tuner and then find out what your tuner recommends if you don't do that it won't be good if you if you've like I said if just to give you an example like nice thing okay we're capable of tuning a car if you're bringing Elite G4 car 100 tune it that's not an issue that being said you might not get the optimum tune because the familiarity just isn't there don't know it in and out so if you're coming here Hall Tech if you're going somewhere else use whatever they recommend find your training find what they recommend go from there what fan CFM should I run at 1300 cfms overheat Russell you have another problem it's not the fan you need to really figure out what the actual problem is because you are not even close to what the issue is once again if you do not start from the mechanical issue and work backwards you will never figure it out and it's not the fan if you're running it's 1300 CFM fam you should have zero problems obviously that's like the one of the most powerful fans you can buy so I would take a step back and figure out what your actual issue is first because I cannot under any circumstances and diagnose what is wrong with your car without actually finding the mechanical issue first because there's several things it could be and you should really look through what could cause overheating and obviously being a big fan I don't think that's it um but yeah so I've talked to your tuners the biggest biggest takeaway I would say as far as ecu's like I said if you're gonna come to us we're going to tell you Hall Tech Honda as well uh if you want to say more budget oriented but if you're going to build a actual car with money um that that you want to protect your investment with I would say stick to a good ECU make sure you pick a good tuner talk to your tuner what they recommend and use Regina recommends if something still happens after that the only person you have to blame at that point is a tuner and not you so uh reduce the liability yourself and that's what it is really important to find a competent tuner but not only a competent tuner but a competent tuner with the hardware that you're trying to use because if you don't I mean there are obviously very core fundamentals in tuning however there are a lot of features in the hall tech for example that I know that I know a lot of even very very well skilled and experienced tuners that don't necessarily have the experience holiday that I have can can really pull off really Without Really knowing the ins and outs I mean I've I've talked to several people I've talked to a very big one yesterday about it specifically in health amount with some settings so um realistically really really really really if there's one thing I want to say with the zoo outside the whole xanth based map and I'll leave you guys on this I'm done after this um is talk to your Junior FIRST think about your car as a team unit because you are not the only person as much as people have to say they are you're unless you are literally building the car Machining motor every doing everything building motor doing the machine work tuning the car building all the suspension doing the alignment doing all of the stuff unless you're literally turning ever doing everything uh building a car is a team experience so you need to consider that the person's building your engine your machinist your tuner all those people are part of your team unit and if you don't communicate to your team what you're doing or if you don't collaborate with your team and what you're doing um you are setting yourself up for failure so always saying about your car as a team unit situation and you will always at least be putting yourself in the best possible position you possibly can as long as you're selecting the right people in that position so like I said uh if you're interested in Hall tech product um be sure to check us out shop.homelperformance.com we have all your halts at goodies there video call station Hall Tech stuff you can choose to call 918-461-8951 gets hooked up we also offer remote team for All Tech ecu's we offer Dyno shooting house where Mahal Doug ecu's off remote team for Honda ecu's offer in-house tuning for Honda 82 as well so if you're interested in any of those Tunes whatsoever great uh hit us up we'll be glad to help you guys out with whatever um but yeah hopefully that answers all your questions I really appreciate you guys jumping on here hope this answers everything you guys might have had if you have any more questions you can reach out to us directly we do offer consultation and tuning services for these ecu's as well so if you want to learn uh that don't necessarily want to tune the car we can also you know spend time Consulting with you as well that being said be be aware that that will cost some money but we can get that going so um hope you guys appreciate

Channel: Humble Performance

Views: 7,464

Keywords: Humble, Performance

Id: NWluuwkSZis

Length: 77min 20sec (4640 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 21 2023