Setting Pinion Angle! Mighty Max Ep. 23

now that the transmission is officially mounted let's measure the angle of the engine so that we can finally figure out what the pinion angle is going to be the best place to find the angle of the transmission is at the front of the engine weird huh my official engine and transmission angle is at 6.2 that is the number I need to determine my pinion angle happy New Year garage fabers it's officially 2024 and I wanted to start the year off right with some productivity and accomplishment of some sort today we're mounting the rear axle in the Mighty Max at the proper pining angle and though that's not super exciting I am super excited because it kind of signifies moving forward on this project and getting what seems to be really close to the end or at least to the point where we can drive this thing again and to top it off I'll get to post another video hopefully signifying a very productive year in 2024 so I'm not wasting any time today we're going to get right on it now that we know what our pinion angle needs to be I need to knock off all of these link bar tabs if you've been following garage Fab for a really really really really long time maybe you'll remember that I just tack welded these on with a pinion angle at 0° I thought that might be pretty close and then just a small adjustment would be needed a little bit more than a small adjustment is needed so I've got to knock all these off so that I can reweld them on in the right location they are going to be the same distance apart though even though the pinning angle's going to change so what I'm going to do is I'm just going to Mark where these are thinking that maybe it will help me line them up much faster I won't have to very carefully measure the distance from the ends the way I did the first time I welded them on I'm going to do that with the bottom ones also then I'm going to cut the tack wells off of each of the tabs and knock them off and then we get to start setting everything up all over again so this is where we're at currently all the tabs have been removed from the axle and all these spot welds where they used to be have been smoothed out and we're back to the starting position like nothing ever happened the axle is waiting patiently on the axle stand slift thing that I created sorry I never got around to making that video it's coming I promise we're going to put the axle back under the truck bolt in all the link bars tighten everything down set the pinning angle and tack weld all the tabs back in [Music] [Applause] [Music] place [Music] we got the link bars in place we got the Link Bar tabs more or less where they're supposed to go the only thing that we have to do is actually set the painting angle so we're going to double check what the angle is on the engine and we got this guy here is probably going to give me a hard time I'm with the homeowners association Christmas lights was still on after Christmas all right so if you saw the last video we found out that the crankshaft angle was at 6.2 so that's the angle that we're going to set the the pinion angle at but my angle finder only has a magnet on the bottom so sorry to confuse you guys but we're going to go with 83.8 instead are you mad though so that angle we want right here it's actually not far just eyeballing it so I expect this to be annoying but I need to get this to read 83.8 and I just realize that my axle stand holdy Jiggy thingy whatever is not made for this so I'm trying to use a clamp 84 is that close enough do we care uh so 84.2 I don't like it I got to figure out something else with this stand believe it or not Justin had a brilliant freaking idea remember this from last video we're going to prop up the front of the differential and try to get this to hold it up because this clamp just ain't working oh God want a hand whoa look at that it's already almost there yeah I need a hand actually I need an eyeball let me know when I should stop three four 5 6 7 838 yeah oh that is freaking awesome good idea my friend I'm going to tack everything in place just made a good point is the axle centered no it's not centered but when I push the Link Bar ends around I'm hoping at least that it just pushes the bushings out of whack and then it's just going to Center itself right right okay [Music] good upper Tabs are tack welded into place our angle is still 83.8 yeah buddy now we're just going to roll a jack over and tack weld the lower what are these called we're just going to roll a jack over and Tack well these lower control arm tabs they're not control arm tabs what are they link bar tabs we're just going to roll it we just just brackets brackets it's technically bracket tab now all you got to do is tack well these lower control arm brackets it's not a lower controller yes it is no it's a four link control anything it controls the yes controlling this link bar God damn it link bar link bar Lower four link link no lower Link Bar yeah lower link bar tabs mounting tabs Mount I should show up we got a tack well D on link bar tabs are tack welded into place pinning angle stayed it didn't change too much I'm okay with that but what I realized is this 83.3 de is angled down supposed to be 83.3 de up the goal here if you've seen some of my previous videos mainly the drive shaft video you're going for parallel between the pinion angle and the engine or transmission 83.3 de down is certainly not parallel so rewind this back to the beginning and pretend we didn't do any of that cuz we're going to do all the same all over again all right so I'm not going to make you watch me cut everything apart again cuz we already did that at the beginning of this video so see you in a minute all right take two this stand should already be set up close to the wrong 83.3 yeah let's go for the other 83.3 shall we a big difference is it still in the camera I think I was saying 83.3 the whole time I knew what I actually needed it to be though that right there [Music] the Link Bar Tabs are tack welded into place again just before Justin left he convinced me to tack weld the axle back into place the math has already been done and so I was just going to rush through it and slap everything back together but he pointed out that the way I was doing it was probably going to cause a lot more problems and that's a problem I have when things get closer to the end I start getting excited I start rushing I start cutting Corners because I already did the work and it's not fun anymore so I just rush through it so it's kind of lucky that just by chance he decided to come hang out and keep me from making even more mistakes so everything's tack welded in I'm going to completely weld on the tabs but while on the topic of not cutting Corners I'm going to completely remove the axle so I can weld it right in front of my face and try to get the wells to look a little bit better than they would if I were trying to fit my head and mid gun into a tight space and working upside down if I take the axle out I can flip the axle upside down and weld things [Music] properly the axle has been disconnected from the frame and the pinning angle matches the crankshaft angle perfectly I want to check the effectiveness of the parallel four link again the last time we did this I only had the needle angle finder which isn't super accurate this one is much better as it has points of a degree so we'll see when we uh drop the axle if it changes I can't see it though so you'll know before I do yeah yeah did it stay the same did it change ah not too bad the overall angle stayed the same with a few changes of points of a degree I'm all right with that that's not pointing out that the four length is imperfect that's just pointing out that I am imperfect there's something somewhere in the building process that I fudged the numbers a little bit basically the upper link bars and the lower link bars aren't the exact same size or the number would have stayed exactly the same [Music] this is a really exciting and somewhat scary time you guys I'm about to permanently weld on the axle truss we've got the tabs completely welded on a lot of the cast pieces have been cleaned where I'm going to be putting some Stitch welds and when you weld cast from my understanding it's a bad idea it's not a very reliable weld even when you do it right and doing it right is pretty in-depth I'm not going to be going into that much because honestly I don't know I'm not super knowledgeable on it I've been told what to do which is a lot of preheating and slow cooling I'm not going to tell you it's the right way to do it because honestly I don't know but here's the deal the majority of the welds are going to be on the axle tube which is just typical mild steel from my understanding it's certainly not cast that is where all the welds for the truss that matter are going to be located then there's just going to be a few welds on the housing of the differential itself that in my opinion they're going to be more for preventing vibration and not so much the actual security or structure of the truss I could be wrong I may be finding cracks in these wells in the future but hopefully my thought is right that should the welds on the truss crack around the cast differential it's not that big a deal cuz it's welded in several other places that matter even more I think we're going to find out whether we like it or not I think one of the most important things right now is that I have bushing sleeves inside the upper tabs right now because these Tabs are designed to be welded to the truss and if I weld them and then they're too close together and I can't fit a bushing in there that's going to be a problem so let me show you what I'm talking about in case you didn't see the video where where we actually built the truss in the front the tabs are going to be welded to the trust along this Edge which is a sort of open Corner joint the tabs also reach up towards the top in these slots right here they will be welded right there as well and lastly in the back of the truss there are some slits where I will be able to weld the back of the Link Bar tabs so they're getting welded in a whole lot of places and ooo I'm dizzy from bending over so hopefully those bushing sleeves will keep the tabs perfect distance apart so that I can get the bushing in on Final assembly we'll find out so let's get to welding this thing up starting with welding the truss to the axle tube itself and then we'll move on to the [Music] cast L is overgown a slum of hero while Mortals and the gods Untouched by soul for they have taken all to avoid the to that others live below to [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] beg easy Young desend I don't recall if I've mentioned this but I have been welding everything on the truss first the truss itself is getting fully welded before I do anything else every single one of these welds was done with the expectation that it was going to cause the truss itself to distort and I've been reluctant to attach it to the actual axle tube because I thought the Distortion of the truss was going to potentially bend the axle tube and I didn't mention it because I didn't know for sure sure if that was actually going to be an issue but turns out it looks like it might have been at one point the truss fit the axle tube perfectly but now you can see that it's starting to lift up on the ends and that's the case on both sides so there's a possibility if I welded the truss to the tube a long time ago prior to doing all the other welds it might have caused the axle tube to curve and kind of create a smiley face kind of thing and I feel like that would have been really bad for the bearings as it is this axle tube was shortened used a questionable method as it is so there's a possibility I may be cooking bearings in this thing anyways uh but at least I'm doing the best to try to minimize that stuff so now that all the welding in the truss is done and it's nearly cool now is the time now is the time that I'm going to actually weld it to the axle tube and still while considering Distortion from welding I'm not going to put a huge bead on there this entire thing isn't going to get welded it's just going to have some maybe 1 in Stitch welds all the way across the only thing that's going to get welded fully is these little Half Moon shapes right here on the [Music] end [Music] truss is now fully welded to the axle tubes all that's left is a few welds on the cast iron housing once again I'm not going to get crazy in depth on how to do it because I don't really know how to do it but I've been told to preheat the cast portion significantly and then let it cool slowly and that's to attempt to prevent cracking once again I'm not really concerned if those parts crack but I am going to at least try to get them to not crack so if you ever see this truck at a car show or SEMA or something in person in the future feel free to lean in and watch the paint of course and check and see if the welds around the Castile housing are cracked I absolutely hate oxy acetylene so I figured I'd do this on video in case it explodes and you can see my final moments wish me luck [Music] well we're going to find out just how important preheating is on cast steel because my torch ran out of oxygen when I was trying to preheat the rear I went ahead and welded it anyways because I'm a hack not really the Mighty Max axle with the truss is complete and ready for paint and with that I just want to say what was that did it just crack it just cracked I thought it was going to crack in use not just sitting here in the garage it just cracked again I just gave Justin from the fabrication series a call and let him know what was going on and in that call I learned that welding cast doesn't cause a brittle issue like I thought instead it's the differences between the two different types of metals in expansion and Contracting with heat and so when the cast cools it creates an insane amount of tension and it breaks the weld almost immediately which we just figured out Justin's going to swing by in a couple days and take a look at it and see if there's anything he can do but in the meantime I've got to fill the oxy acetylene tanks so that we can preheat it properly and follow instructions this time in hopes of better results but that's going to be in another video so until then my friends oh I was saying thank you for an amazing 2023 it was a huge year for garage Fab let's hit 2024 hard will 2024 be the year that the Mighty Max drives out of the garage under its own power I hope so so until the next one my friends even though things don't always go as planned keep moving [Music] forward

Channel: Garage Fab

Views: 25,542

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Id: hVVdd-aOQjs

Length: 18min 25sec (1105 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 07 2024