Savage Rifle Barrel Swap | Back to Basics Show

today we're going to show how to install and remove a barrel off of a Matt savage model 12 this can be done home with tools that are somewhat more basic than these these tools or at least the wrench and device our commercial models these are the ones I used when I was practicing gunsmithing but you can have them that are made out of oak blocks and they will work pretty well they just won't last as long and they won't take quite as much abuse and punishment this one's over 30 years old and it's still in pretty good shape the tools are going to be first of all the action vise this is made out of two inch by two inch steel and you can see a place there you can put the the various rings that you're going to apply to different types of vaccines and barrel profiles they are going to use the savage action wrench there's a profile two different types of profile that one's a square tooth profile and one is a round tooth profile other ones are identical one fits one type of collar the other one fits the other type of collar this is the no go gauge it notice it says 243 308 because the same gauge can be used for both because the 243 is a 308 that's neck-down people use this also for the 7.62 by 51 here's the measurement it's one inch 634 thousand s long and it says ogo which is an abbreviation for no go which is Lisa it's less expensive saying oh the no I guess it cost less to manufacture it but this is a no go gauge length 1 inch 630 for thousands the go gauge is identical to this one except it says go not a go and the measurement is 1 inch 630 thousands and that measurement is taken from the base up to this taper up here so these are the basic tools that you use if you have a complete set like like that I do there's different profiles as you can see these are well worn and well used this is the one that happens to fit the establish the best out of the ones I have available to me and what you do is you simply take one of the one of the collars you put it in the bottom make sure the tapers toward the back and you take the other one you slide it in and you cut the taper toward the back and they'll sit right there until you're ready to use them we want to apply a little bit of lubricant to these threads these around there quite a bit of pressure and they do last longer and this is quite old so I'm going to put just a dab of Lube replayed on there and that's going to help it so it won't gall when you torque it down as I mentioned this is a savage model 12 now when I use this combination of collars on the savage it's not required if you have your collars fit very well but what I like to do is I like to apply a little bit of masking tape again this is not required this is totally optional but I do these safe and sorry because I don't like to scratch anything totally optional put it on there and there you go first take your wrench make sure you have the correct profile this is a square bottom profile this collar has the square bottoms so make sure you have the correct profile slide the wrench on try not to scratch it it's it's not crucial but nonetheless there's no need of scratching it lift slide move around a little bit eventually will work now this one's a little bit short when I made this years ago this one came out a little bit short but it didn't matter so sometimes I put something up inside the vise just to push it those collars all the way so they're seated up against the locking collar on the savage and there we go our final goal is to make sure that these are essentially centered I like to have the gap on both sides to be equal the gap on this was essentially equal to this one or similar anyway the locking powers course comes more from the top side it diminishes that goes toward the edge and down here it's not too crucial but get as Center as you can't screw the hardened nuts down it with a hardened bolts they last a lot longer if you use hard steel as opposed to soft steel these have put on many many barreled actions and many many years and they're still as usable as the day they were made pull it down so that they are this is an equidistant on both sides you can see it's essentially equal here over here and our goal is to put equal pressure on both sides now you can use any type of wrenches you want to here's the type of wrench that I use and we'll start locking these down making sure you keep distance similar and now starts becoming a lot harder I don't have the ability to put enough torque on this I'm not sure anybody does prep the world strong as men but that's not me I'm looking right now to see the distance is the same or similar and if they feel about the same and the pressure right now feels very similar with the sand mount on both sides now that I have like this about the same I'm going to use a cheater bar cheater bar get something you can't live without I pull it over one time two times feeling the pressure is important here you're trying to make this as somewhere as you can on both sides I have no idea how much pressure I'm putting on this whereas the torque is concerned but it is substantial that shouldn't slip set this aside at this point we're going to take remove the wrench to where we want it now I always have trouble remembering which way this end of screw is because remember this screws clockwise onto the barrel we're trying to unscrew it so that means if this is because we're screwed it on the barrel and we're trying to screw that direction so we're essentially trying to screw this further on to the barrel so since we're trying to screw that further on to that barrel which is backing it off of this locking lug here that means it's going to turn clockwise that means that we need to position this so that's more or less in the center so now we have a hammer or mallet of something I like this rubber because I don't like beating up my tools so if you can use steel if you want to I've done it before but I prefer using a good heavy solid rubber mallet this probably weighs about two-and-a-half or three pounds so use something fairly substantial especially if it's rubber and I'm going to give it a pop it's off its loosened them one more time this is from the original factory install this has never been off before so this is coming off quite easily if I didn't have my reloading press there I can just go all the way around with this it's also pinching that masking tape so they're good locking collars off as you can see this is unscrewed so we should be able to take this off by hand at this point now as you'll if you see the shank this is a small shank savage as you can see they put some type of adhesive in there that brown stuff in there it's some kind of adhesive and the lug itself you'll notice that the receiver has a notch built into it and the locking lug has a notch milled into it that way it's very easy and very tactile you can feel it and know where it goes just by feel I'm just looking at it to see if anything looks all right this thing is fine so this sits on there just like that that's an a punch press made this at the factory some people replace these the factory ones do work fine they're precision models some people say they work a lot better I'm not sure I can tell the difference but yet the precision model would perhaps be some better but I wouldn't worry about if you didn't have it take your go gauge make sure you have your correct gauges make sure be very careful this is the no-go gauge we want the no-go gauge out of our way put the go gate the no-go gates back in his tube set it aside that way you are guaranteed not to have a problem make sure your your go gauge is clean on the base along the sides if you want to wipe it off with your t-shirt that's fine just make sure that it's clean make sure you've cleaned out your chamber you don't have any dust dirt particles goo anything in chamber you want these to be immaculately clean the go gauge and the back of the barrel and inside the chamber take your take your lug place it on your action so that you see the indentation to the back it fits in that notch right there let's fit in that notch just like that anything else you're going to have an unhappy result and we'll install this back where it came from hardest parts lining it up can I do it maybe not there we go it's on we can put just a just a scooch drop of well little looper Luber plate perhaps won't hurt to put just a little bit of oil on there or lubricant of some kind some people say it's unnecessary if you don't want to don't I like doing it I can feel the factory goo on there now at this point make sure you line the notch on the receiver and screw them on together it will stay in place just finger tight we don't exactly know where this is going to go so we're going to leave this we screwed that off a couple turns so we don't know exactly where it's going to go it's going to go in there somewhere so at this point we'll take the the bolt now this is assembled you could take the you could take the extractor out if you wanted to some people say it's a little more sure you can take the ejector which is the plunger type you could take that out if you wanted to I'm not going to because the demonstration purpose is on my shorts crucial but normally I would take those out if I was actually doing this for something other than a video shoot like I am today but this is eat this comes out easily this comes out easily we're not taking either of them out the go Gage and the no go gage notice this protrusion no this is an indentation that's for the firing pin because sometimes you pull the trigger and you don't want to and that way you won't break your firing pin tip or damage in any kind of way so we will now insert slide that in all the way install the bolt I can already feel it trying to engage there we go right there it's closed on the gauge now I like to line this up you can you can line these up and put that on there so tight you cannot extract that go gauge where you're ultimately I'd be your your brass becomes brass are the sticky so it's not your go gay just the brass so I like to have mine on so that you line up the lug you take you turn everything together finger tight until it stops on its own you're not gonna be able to do much just under finger pressure so a couple more times just to show you about its spinning it stopped try it again you get to feel pull it around when it starts pull it a little bit further that's it that's about how tight you can and that right there's a perfect fit sometimes the recoil leg wants to come out so just make sure you put it back more time and these lined up the knotch and the recoil lug lined up with the receiver finger tight pinch it a little bit I can't I'm not going to be able to pull it much just put my fingers that's just where I want it right there now some people would say it's enough that you can put this on hand tight like this and this will be perfectly head spaced and that may be true I like to head space mine a little bit tighter than that I like the locking collar pressure to be a few taps that's on there very tight it doesn't seem like it is that's very tight if you want to put a cheater bar on there you probably could but you don't need to do that at this point remove your your go gauge put it inside the case don't ever mix these up it can cause a problem we'll say this is the no-go gauge this is for thousands longer slide this in the chamber this should not close that's what it will not close perfect pull this out and the extractor is going to try to throw that the injector and kind of throw there you go you have that out put these away first these are precision tools don't drop them don't let them fall on the floor you might want to spray a little wd-40 or some type of a preservative oil in there once you handle it at this point we're going to disassemble this bolt out first now that went on with the cheater bar and it's not going to come off your less I put the cheater bar on it you could do this a lot of other ways but this is the way that it works this isn't rocket science once we take off if you put the cheater barn on one side the other side pull this right up whatever you do do not use a crescent wrench press wrench has way too much give the best is going to be some sort of a box end wrench which is what this is this is just an adjustable box in wrench if you have another type 6 or 12 point that works just fine I like to use this type just be good it comes on off a little easier this side should point quite easily the looper plate makes it so much easier back it off all the way some of these are made to have a Springs internally and then shaft right here I didn't put the springs in but you can and that way lift up on its own fill the floor doesn't hurt a thing there you go not a scratch on it no Mari as you can see nothing was broken through my fingernail did that just then no barring there'll be no mooring of any kind on this and if you had this for a customer they would never know it was taking off it's going to peel off with some difficult because it just was under many hundreds of pounds if not thousands of pounds of pressure I have no idea but if you're a mathematician you can figure out how much pressure you put on it by the length of the cheater bar which doesn't really matter peel off the tape the Savage is perfectly head spaced is totally safe and it's ready to go so you can swap any type of barely one of the savage as long as it has a long as it has the proper type of shank and that's how you change a savage barrel and that's it thanks again see you next video bye you

Channel: Back to Basics Show

Views: 262,623

Rating: 4.6779389 out of 5

Keywords: savage, rifle, 12fv, model 10, firearm, barrel swap, barrel change, headspace, caliber conversion, barrel vise, action vise, barrel wrench, back to basics, back to basics show, survival, expo, stevens, prepper, prepper show, survival show

Id: ANK9KbXmMr4

Length: 22min 58sec (1378 seconds)

Published: Mon Jun 10 2013