Sanding Jig For Segmented Woodturning Part 1

hi there today I'm going to show you how to make this it's a sanding Jake for a disc sander I use it all the time to make segments for signature foot journey I will show you how to make the jig and how to do the savings before you do that though there are two things you need to make sure on the disc sander itself number one the bit must be square to the disc if it's not square your segments just aren't going to glue up well at all second thing you need to make sure that this slot is parallel to the disc now my disc sander is already set up properly and I really don't want to change it so I'm going to demonstrate without changing any settings one of the things you want to do when you first set up your disc sander is do it without sandpaper doing it with just the bare disc will be view much better more accurate results on each end under here on this model is a handle you can loosen and then you can adjust up and down until you get it to the ninety degrees you want the other thing you want to do is the slot make sure it's parallel to do that I've just put a piece of masking tape with a dot on your bare disc you can put a dot like this extend your calipers out until they touch that dot and then move this out until you get a reading from the slot to there then you want to turn this till you get the dot on the other side put your calipers on there and get your reading here you want to get those to match exactly to do that you can loosen the two screws on this side and the two screws on this side and then you can adjust it back and forth don't loose them too much until it just to learn a little bit snug and that way you can move them without too easily bumping and out of position keep adjusting and readjusting tightening and retightening until you get it perfect and then snug them up as tight as you can I'm ripping and cross-cutting two pieces of half-inch MDF to use for the sled now I apply contact cement to the two pieces of MDF and then I'll wait for 45 minutes for it to become tacky with the glue ready I press the two boards together you now I apply contact cement to one of the pieces of Formica that will face the two sides of the sled I have to put Formica on both sides to keep the sled balanced so it won't work after waiting for the contact cement to cure again I can attach the Formica to the MDF now I rip the sled to size to have smooth edges for the next gluing then I will apply contact cement to the other side of the MDF and the second piece of Formica so that they can be bonded together it's not unusual to walk by this thing and bump myself on the corners to make that a little less painful I've taken a one inch washer use that to mark the corners and I'm going to round them off on the disk Center now I need to make a runner to ride in the slot on the bed here I'm using UHMW ultra high molecular weight plastic it's great for all kinds of jigs for woodworkers we're going to cut that to size the thickness is already just a little bit thinner than the depth of the slot which is what I want I don't want to touching the bottom and want to just writing snugly in the slot on the sides so I'll cut that on the table saw now I'm using a micro adjuster you can see at the top of the picture it allows me to make very fine adjustments as little as a thousandth of an inch if necessary I'm drilling in countersinking one side of the runner I put one hole on each end and another near the center I don't attempt to put it in the exact center as I want to be able to tell which end goes which way I'm running a screw into the holes and letting it spin to strip out the plastic a bit I don't want the screw to be tight in the plastic only in the wood I'm placing three thin washers in the slot to raise the runner just proud of the surface of the table I don't know if you can see it but I have a small piece of double-sided tape on each end and in the middle of the runner you might notice that I did in fact have to remove the sandpaper from the disc I realized that I would have to remove it to make sure I get at zero clear and slit now I'm screwing the runner to the bottom of the sled I make very sure I haven't changed the runner end for end I screw the middle screw in and then return it to the slot to make sure it hasn't shifted then I put the end screws in when the runner is replaced in the slot it should move smoothly with the sled against the disc now I'll take the sled off and remove the runner again so I can file smooth the bulges that have been formed on the Formica by tightening the screws I'm countersinking the second side of the runner so that if any more Formica bulges it will bulge into the counter sinks and not cause the runner to lift notice that I marked an X on the end of the runner and the sled if we prefer to put the middle screw hole in the exact center of your runner this will help keep you from reversing the runner it also lets me remember which side of the runner is the bottom now when I reattached the runner I can use the holes that have already been used and know that the runner will run true I'm cutting a small rabbit on the bottom of the fence as a dust relief I don't want any dust to gather against the side of the fence as this could cause the adjuster to run untrue notice that I'm using Baltic birch for the fence if I used hardwood I would run the risk of it moving with condensation and temperature changes Baltic birch is very stable and should help avoid that problem I'm drilling and countersinking the fence on both sides for the same reason I did it to the runner I only use one screw on each end I attached the fence to the sled being sure to hold it tightly against the disc and flush to the end of the sled I put one screw in the end closest to the disc but only clamped the other end to the sled so that I can adjust it to attach sandpaper to the disc sander I sliced the backing paper about 2/3 and peel the paper off the larger section this lets me slide the sandpaper down along the disc without it sticking to it prematurely it's important to very carefully Center the sandpaper on the disc before pushing it on you don't get a second chance with this then just push it into place and turn the disc until the backing paper is available and peel it away I use a j-roller to press it to the disc do this very thoroughly to make sure it's attached completely with the sander running slide the slat Ian slowly from the end this will let the sandpaper cut the sled as it passes giving you a zero clearance table a little hint don't forget to open the blast gate for your dust collectors I did makes a real mess now it's time to adjust the fence to be square to the disk to do that I'm going to use this wood I'm going to mark each side I'm going to designate this one a and this one B a is always going to ride against the fence I put pencil marks on both ends so that when I run it against the disc sander once that's disappeared I'll know it's sand it all the way across flip it over and do the other end then what I will do is I will measure the length of side B and the length of side a and see what difference there is and then just from there now I'm going to measure the length of the two sides of the board side a is five point three four eight zero I'll mark that down so I don't forget side B five point three three seven zero so I'm out point zero one one zero inches now I know that I'm out eleven thousands of an inch a being longer I need to move this end of the fence in that direction to do that I'm just going to give a good little wrap here and I'll do another test and see how close we are this time now I have side-a at five point three one zero zero side B is five point three one three zero now I know a lot of guys would say that's close enough but I'm going to take a little more time here I'm going to adjust this until I get it perfect and then I'll be back now I've got the fence adjusted to where I'm satisfied it's out less than a thousandth of an inch and what I want to do is screw it down tightly now and I'll do one more test to make sure it's still all right comes out to five point two zero zero zero on B and five point two zero zero zero on a I'm happy well that's the end of part one I hope to do this all in one sitting but it's just a little too long I wouldn't want to listen to me for forty minutes either so I hope you'll tune in to part two see the rest of it in the meantime take a break go do some woodworking thanks for watching you

Channel: Gord Rock

Views: 40,486

Keywords: Woodturning, Segmented Woodturning, Woodworking, Sanding, Sanding Jig, Segmented Turning, Segmented, Turning, Segmented Woodturner, Woodturner, Woodturners, Segmented Woodturners

Id: WkNeKBdWMC4

Length: 19min 28sec (1168 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 23 2014