Rupes Product Training: E9 - Machine Sanding Application

[Music] this isn't like it's is incredible how horrible this is I mean what years is car like a 2017 Altima probably a combination of brush washing and tell wiping and washing and car wash whatever you call it the automatic car wash you know these straight lines are from the automatic yeah lots of them welcome look Matt this is the scenario we were talking about where layers and layers of defects where one of the traditional and normal approaches would be to just hammer this with a compound wool pad aggressive tool movement whatever but some kind of a aggressive approach so what we're gonna show is an alternative to that which will be using this foam disc technology so it is sandpaper but it's a completely different approach than regular sandpaper this is what maybe eight inch thick roughly quarter inch thick and then this is whether this is a 3000 grit 3000 it's funny when you feel these things it almost feels like doesn't feel like you like it doesn't feel like traditional sandpaper it almost feels like a rough sweater you know yeah very very different technology and this approach will remove defects like that without compound will pad and all that and then we also talked about the film disc technology which this is more like traditional approach very very thin like sandpaper fishing on a grit and this is a 1500 grit and this is a dry sanding product you can tell by the there's a stearate pattern on there and that is a giveaway of a dry sanding it's like a dry lubricant on the sandpaper that releases as you as you go so you know we'll do on one spot on this car we'll do a two-step scenario which will show removing these defects but also leveling texture so we'll show that this two-step scenario one - this is not dry this is wet actually we call it damp it's not a flood of water it's a spray as well so we'll do the two-step on one side on this side we'll do the one step where we are going after the defects but leaving the texture first we want to clean the surface and remove dust and debris and also strip it of any potential waxes or polish residues that might be on the paint and in this case I could use an IP a solution or diluted right yeah diluted down in a spray bottle or I can use this product which is a G Technic panel wipe put that off so you have I mean this is a car Perl has a version has a version right yeah I'm kind of a chemistry that's intended to remove oils in the idea so we're gonna do that and this is always the first step because if you tried to sand on top of a surface that has waxes or ceilings or something on it it will fight what you're trying to do with the sandpaper so it'll cause you more work and you'll load up your sanding so that first disc and I'll throw away in one pass just for fun I'm going to hit it again and now I think there might have been a wax on there because now I actually see more scratches yeah I do too credible yeah okay so I'll show the two-step and then I want to step on that side so we have an assortment of orbits so these are our air tools these are air Sanders three millimeters six millimeter nine millimeter on this first step with the film disc I'm gonna be in the three or six range in keeping with using the least aggressive method first we'll take this three millimeter and we'll see how that works we'll put our foam interface pad on there all the holes are for cooling well the holes are actually designed for a dust extraction system okay yeah so they're gonna vacuum dust as you sand wouldn't these little holes create issues like grabbing issues well it's not in theory the film disc is they're thick enough that the hooks from the vacuum or the interface shouldn't protrude through but if you push down hard enough you will make contact with those hooks of the ideas don't push down let the paper paper do the work so I'm just gonna do a little spot here [Music] let me show you something real quick before I keep going so that was ten seconds yeah it was literally two past this so what I want to show you here is right here you see an area that looks different than this yeah this is your texture almost completely leveled right here that quickly yeah very fast I can still see a few dimples but considerably different than out here and what those dimples are those are valleys so we've taken the peaks off and two passes are gone these are peaks and valleys this is what's called partial texture leveling so if the objective was complete texture leveling we have not done it here but we have come close here so I just wanted to show you that before I kept going there's a little bit of load but not so much [Music] [Applause] [Music] so as you can see just those extra couple of passes textured levels these this area around here is where you have partial absolutely no heat yeah it's a non heat approach to get that with a hand with a block would have taken me 20 minutes over hands handing yeah cuz I would have done a little section little section will with the little blocks but you can do hand sanding with a full piece of sandpaper and you could actually get that texture leveled with a few hand passes it takes the right product in the right hand pad but you can do this by hand referring to as loading all the little spots this is loading and if I continued to sand with this I would be asking for that pigtail mark that we showed you in the classroom so there's two ways to clean this with a towel and my recommendation is a cotton towel not a microfiber because the microfiber will clean this effectively but it will also begin to strip away your braces on the disc so cotton won't do that so you've brushed away the load that's on the disc as you can see the stearic material still there so you you haven't affected that you can continue sanding without a problem so that's one way the other way is to blow it off so another way is to blow it off we showed the towel approach but yeah cleaned it off a lot more efficient so that is your textured leveling step you could jump on this and compound this any markup but it would not be efficient sandy mark removal you would have to work harder so the next step is we're going to take this film dis off and switch to the foam disc technology this is the 3000 grit and the purpose is to refine the sanding mark to make it easier to buff out now just for fun I'm going to switch orbits and I'm going to go to a large 9 millimeter orbit and I'm going to use that same foam interface pad and remember as we talked about the function of the the function of the foam interface pad is to take out that little bit of angling with the tool UV and level it out on the paint which will prevent some of that edge cut now this approach and most all foam disc products regardless of brand it's going to be used wet so I'm not aware of I'm not aware of any foam disc technology that you use dry doesn't mean it doesn't exist but I'm just not aware of it most everything all the brands you can think of this technology it's using water and it's a couple of spritz of water there a couple spritzes of water there so it's not wet sanding we call it dam sanding [Music] we want to do this twice double it up right twice the number of passes or twice the amount of time you're just letting the Machine you're not applying any pressure you're just very light enough to plant the differ that's about the right speed right there and you see the white frothy material yep that is actually clear coat that you [Music] they really want to work this disk in the biggest mistake people make is they they do not do this thoroughly enough and you end up buffing out some of here's your remnant 1500 grit scrap stone that you don't want to have to come back and sand again yeah [Music] so they're the sandy mark should look very different to you yeah I mean you can actually see begin to see gloss you can see a reflection of that light it's even there's not highs and lows this is exactly what it should look like and what we'll show here is it's not going to remove texture and we can be here all day sanding and it will not remove texture but what it will go after is all those heavy scratches so I'm going to interrupt the cycle just to show you something so that's not the normal application but I just wanted to show you so you see the straight line and scratches coming in and you can still see them there you know so we haven't effectively removed them [Applause] [Music] I'm trying to partially remove them so you can see the difference and there are still remnants of the straight line you can still see but some of them are removed right [Music] and you should count passes and never go beyond like ten passes with this technology that you can see that the straight lines are beginning to go away all you see is a orbital sanding luck you can still see all the texture yeah I still see a couple of the real deep [Music] there we go so very different looks you know same 3000 great on both sides but you can see a very different look to it and that's expected so that's 1500 fall over 3,000 yes and that's just the Devon [Music] so you're gonna compound this yeah so we're just taking our dick for random orbital 15 millimeter or microfiber cutting disc Zephyr compound which this is our normal go-to for a sanding mark but this is still a less aggressive compounding step than if we were trying to hammer on these scratches because you'd have to cycle it a lot longer or make probably more two or three yeah yeah there's must have been a prototype it's not blue the blueness didn't come into our compounds until recently this products been out for five years so we've got a good amount for priming again i short-cycle this just for the purpose of showing you something that was two passes that went up and down twice and you can see there's not a complete defect removal on the sanding mark but we probably have half of it out right now mm-hmm so that's to a full cycle [Music] [Music] middle is out edges or not bit more need is a little on the medium to hard side but I'm just gonna go on the edges and get that remaining sandy mark [Music] the edges of the [Music] so that took a good amount of passes and due to the hardness of the paint so another car the sandy mark could have come out and half that amount of time and then another car could have taken twice as long it just depends on paint hardness so at my angle you can see the difference in texture from here to here yep definitely I don't know if I'll be able to capture that on camera texture difference see the texture and the light right there over here now we have some haze left over for microfiber on black right so then we would come and finish that up with foam foam in the yellow polish you know and take that rest of that haze out in this case you would definitely need that second step other paints you may not need it and I'm going to do Matt let's call this dip down panel so when I'm done visually you'll see every step so here's your sanding mark yeah here's your compound mark and I'm only gonna polish here so you'll see the finished result [Music] fighting it out a little bit [Music] you're doing that finishing on speed 1 yeah I'm a low speed guy I'm on the low end SP setting than most of my tools so here you should definitely see a progression and finish quality and then here's what we started with this mess you can actually see the mess we started with here did that show up on the camera hmm yeah that's that could show up on 20 feet away and then we have our Fanny mark our compound mark and then a polished mark which is a little bit of a defect left tiny bit but this would be wax ready for most people you can refine that a little more with a couple more passes of that polish going from that to this hmm so on you know foam you can prime on the fly like this you really impaired I'll show you I'll show you the proper priming so we'll go on speed setting to with the mark to version of the tool we're gonna leave it in one place for twenty to thirty seconds which on count on camera seemed like an eternity before you leave it in one place and what that does is it warms up the foam warms up the compound begins to spread it on the surface and that's the primary stuff this kind of a light light pressure at some point you'll see the rotations kick in right there you see that yeah and then do you add more product or you just roll with that you could roll actually with this amount of area [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] so that was that was three Pacis I decided another three this way and voila see all these straight-line scratches mmm if you follow them down they disappear right about there mm-hmm so all your scratches are gone there's a little bit of a haze mark from the compound step so this is this paint I would describe as haze prone so because no matter what we've done it's generated a little bit of a haze so this is a kind of paint that's just haze prone it just not isn't it never gonna be a one-step right exactly it's already telling you that hey I don't I don't like one steps yeah it has to do with the brittleness of the paint not the elasticity so this paint would be a little more brittle than other paints which makes it more scratch prone yeah [Music] well here I'm watching for rotation my ideal speed for polishing as I do the lowest speed possible that maintained this is on like one and a half [Music] but because we've already learned that this is haze prone paint I'm I'm not gonna over cycle it I stopped it short it was that two or three frames yeah and we'll see where we're at much improved yeah much better yep so you're he's is gone and that showed the entire process Matt so we went from those heavy heavy scratches on top of scratches to no scratches but we left the texture alone here mm-hmm here we see a step down panel nasty sanding Martyr nasty scratches from car washing sandy mark compound mark and I finished off all right so let's check our paint deaths right after our three thousand nothing 15 under three thousand compound compound on top of that and then finish up off the top of that so our defected virgin paint here four point nine zero point nine eight five so it's pretty consistent around that so that's what we have on the defected level so here we 3,000 and foam dis sanded polished four point nine four point nine again five point two even taller on that spot four point nine so it's pretty consistently so what this shows is that procedure we did three thousand grit sanding plus puffing and all that we didn't remove paint never removed a microscopic level to remove defects but other than that we didn't cut too deep into the clerk Oh so here is on our sanding mark five five five again four point nine so even then we're not showing a lot of paint removal here compared to their compounded four point nine for 0.93 it's very consistent 4.96 4.8 so we were getting 4.9 and fives in here very very microscopic difference here and which really shouldn't be seen any difference on the polio four point nine four point nine three four point nine four five point three so basically looking at these measurements we did not impact the clear coat too deeply here so you would know if we were getting a three point nine you know one that we did some serious that would be pretty drastic if if I started in the five or four nine and 5.0 area here if I started seeing four point five four point three then you really removed a lot of paint yeah now what we don't have to compare with here is well what if we had taken a rotary a wool pad in a compound and hammered on those then what would we see so that's one thing we haven't compared to yet but the main point of this measurement is to just demonstrate that these procedures we've just done and not sanding is not right sanding is not as insanely aggressive as it's been chastise former right especially the way we did it here I mean the house aggressive grit size we used in this whole thing was fifteen hundred right if we had started with a thousand mm-hmm we might have a different story here but well because if we did a thousand we'd have to do v follow with fifteen hundred right and then you know I'm step it down yeah but we also did a machine sanding which has we mentioned in the classroom earlier means machine sanding is less aggressive than hand sanding so if we would had done thousand grit hand mm-hmm we would have removed a lot more paint which is counterintuitive you most people think hand would be less addresses definitions so because of the inaccuracy of your human movement well this is not flat even with a hand pad your downward pressure on the sandpaper is not consistent mm-hmm you have highs and lows and that's any mark so yeah it's a case to be made based on what we've just shown for using technology instead of the hammer the axe mm-hmm use refinement you know refined technology they go after D right so we have you know aggressive compounding and sanding somewhere in between rather than the opposite which would be conventional wisdom right yeah eventually would say well sanding is here then compounding when it's a lot of times could be the opposite depending on the abrasive technology it can be much more aggressive and certainly right if we grow up some 80 grit you know start yeah grinding away it you know with a with a 21 all right so let's finish this out [Music] yeah so one bit of technique thing is when somebody wants to get more aggressive to get that last bit of defect out you know I don't increase speed I don't increase harm speed I just do a slower pass with a little more pressure I remember that haze we cut [Applause] so explain to me water how when how much how do you know I got the slide for okay I'll give you the nerdy side of water oh man that's good I always polish with water those two things I won't polish car without this built in a spray bottle of water so the concept here blow out the pad get the residue out that we already have this is a diminishing polish right you know these are non diminishing mm-hmm okay all right lemon I answers that I thought these were diminishing so you were breaking down the polish no I'm actually a fan of non diminishing so now look at the difference here yeah that extra Paston mm-hmm I could actually keep refining this and get it better and better and better just by blowing that pad and it spritzing on water and not adding more product no more product yeah all right that's the part that comes from lots of experience right trial and error yeah all right

Channel: Obsessed Garage

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Keywords: matt moreman, obsessed garage, porsche, 911, sapphire blue, gt3, honda, s2000, volk, ohlins, coilovers, kraftwerks, j's racing, bridgestone, michelin, eibach, club racer, cusco, stoptech, spoon, toda racing, ford, mustang, gt350, shelby, magnetic metallic, mgw shifter, escort, passport max blendmount, american racing headers, jlt intake, lund racing, raptor, ford performance, svt, f150, truck, offroading, auto detailing, jescar, sonax, chemical guys, carpro, cquartz

Id: q0mZPEZtq2w

Length: 32min 57sec (1977 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 18 2018