Runway Review: Haute Couture Spring 2024

hey hey party people let's talk about Couture let's talk about spring 2024 Couture week and let's talk about why Couture is at the tail end of all the spring shows shall we because we often talk about um Couture being the trend Setter it's not just Couture but often Couture is high concept and a lot of people get ideas from Couture that sort of thing but it's like well Zoe weren't all the other cout like spring shows back in September and October that's because Couture doesn't have to worry about the long planning calendar of mass production okay because if you're showing in September October you know then you are soliciting sales from wholesale buyers all all throughout October and then you are you know in here you're ordering Fabrics ordering all your materials you know doing finishing a product development and uh getting your production patterns in place which are different from your sample patterns and then you're running production here and here and then usually whatever you're showing whether it's on the runway or not whatever you're showing this season for Spring you're dividing into multiple deliveries so that you have something new in stores all the time so you have a January delivery you have a February delivery and all this time you're also designing your fall shows which will show in February okay and so all this lead time so that you have all this time to do your production and sell Jan Feb March that's when your spring 24 shows are selling here but Couture Couture's never about sales not anymore okay it used to be not so much anymore and even then Couture gowns or or outfits suits what have you they're made one at a time for individual customers you don't have to do you know run cut tickets and you know bundle up orders and none of that is happening and so you get the one order for the one dress and then you make the one dress and uh however long that takes you in the late winter early Springtime so because you don't need that long lead time your Couture shows for spring are in January that's how that works and it's not even so much like the whatever is happening here whether it's spring what whether you label it spring fall preall whatever whatever you label that it's still going to influence upcoming Seasons but that's why spring is here and then it gets made for actual you know March April let's look at some shows I always like to add a geeky little twist to my Runway reviews to make them different from other people's Runway reviews so today we are going to be looking at these Runway shows through the lens of the design principles that we have studied already we haven't studied all of them we still have balance and Rhythm and okay spoiler but we have learned these and so we're going to see where we see them throughout the Couture Collections and I'm just going to talk a little bit about what trends that I've been seeing throughout the Couture shows ding shows have in common right uh let's start with uh scaparelli cuz the season started with scaparelli right so something I noticed throughout were these sort of black and beige collections um where well this one is completely black and beige but some of them were largely black and beige and uh it's not nude first of all even on these white people it's too pale to be considered nude and nude is a lot of different colors brown is also a nude for some people so we don't use that word to describe a singular color not around here right but they're beigy and peachy and what does that remind you of Pantone color of the year and uh you know I got uh when I posted on my social media asking what people thought of Panton color of the Year peach fuzz I actually got more positive uh feedback than I had in previous years I ask almost every year and I guess that lived up to the promise cuz this peachy dreamy color is definitely very close to peach fuzz okay very beautiful dreamy gorgeous Satin rendition of Pantone color of the year a lot of black a lot of cream a lot of ivory a lot of beige okay so we already studied scaparelli we did a scaparelli case study for the emphasis video and a lot of scaparelli looks there's a lot of bold contrasts a lot of you know focal points points of emphasis using different kinds of contrast here we have shiny and black versus matte and white or offwhite we have soft textured round versus hard shiny smooth and we're also going to see a lot of big shoulder emphasis here look at the widened shoulders broader shoulders this one it has this you know negative space created to emphasize the arms coming away from the body like that more of that wide shoulder arms away from the body silhouette with repetition a lot of repeating buckles repetition around the neck and then another Trend that I saw throughout the season were kind of exposed corsets sheer corsets undergarments fully or partially revealed that look more like girdles and not like a beautiful finished corset something like this where it does look more like an undergarment as opposed to an outer finish coret and another thing that I saw was this kind of bubble skirt not as common as some of the other Trends but I did see it across the board okay another point of emphasis who is looking at anything but this robot embellish baby second point of emphasis this this look if you've ever taken care of a baby then you know that you would actually never wear an earring like this right where a baby could snatch it no okay unless you are not particularly fond of your own earlobe that would never happen Okay listen people love this dress people are wild about this stress they are just like wow this is so cool but here's my problem with the dress I also think it is very cool but it's like this very like back and forth like you know when we talked about ambiguity where things of a general theme were scattered across a dress a garment so that your eye didn't particularly rest in one spot but move all around just like the other kinds of repetition all the kinds of repetition are to get you to move your eye across the visual texture whereas emphasis is about pointing your eye at one particular thing to look at and this is some weird mess of both where honestly I cannot stop looking at this phone and this boob whatever that thing is that is on this boob and then back to this phone and then back to this boob and then my eye does bounce around like this one little orange spot so maybe it is doing a good job of making your eye move around but honestly this phone and not only that it is such an awkward placement it's not where like a CO you know maybe if it was lower down it's just not a good resting spot do you know what it means for something like let me tell you about tangents okay it is when you have a square and in inside that square you have a triangle and it is hitting it like that okay and all you can do is stare at that because it is so bizarre that that point is butting up against the side of the square like that whereas if you had that same square and you just had a triangle in it this just looks more soothing to the eye it doesn't bother it doesn't just point right there that's what that phone is to me right on the shoulder like that it is literally making me bunkers bunkers he but you know editorial looks are supposed to get you to talk about them so more repetition of buckles buckles buckles that Keyhole is something that happens a lot repetition or Motif repetition okay these little popsicle stick feathers mother of pearl chips slightly irregular not perfectly proportioned they're 's that whole undergarment that doesn't look like it's supposed to be an outer garment bubble skirt there's that shoulder emphasis arm away from the body shape again let me tell you something this just the construction of it is so immaculate like like anyone who's never made a wedding dress just does not know the pain of keeping something so clean in a workshop full of people and to get it the pressing job on this oh it was so beautiful the app crashed anyways I'm nuts about how smooth and just Immaculate and beautiful look at that it's like it wants to be an hourglass but a weird one I know surrealism part of scamp's hot yeah I got it but just purely just thinking about the visual it's like you want the emphasis on the waist and the broad shoulders so much that you're willing to hang the arms out you know like I you know like those Jim Bros who can't hang their arms at their sides cuz their lats are so swole like that but not but not I mean this dress everyone and their mother has oo and odd over it on social media cuz it is is indeed beautiful I mean what is there to say it's beautiful and this is an excellent uh Motif whereas you have imagery and swirls that are similar to each other you have these different kinds of stitches in different sections all over the place but it's not like a perfect grid repetition of exactly same elements but it's moving across the whole thing in ways where your eye doesn't just settle onto one specific spot really beautiful your eye moves you're looking at the texture you're looking at the shape you want to see the back like no coughing garments here you know not quite as elongated but we see that extreme high-waisted Lou pant look you know people were really into this whole raised strap thing but I mean if the bust or waist is tight enough it'll just stay there I'm not even convinced that was not intentional another one of those bubble skirts shoulders I don't know how I feel about this knot knotting sort of thing they look like banto knot they they just but they're not they look like hair but listen I'm just going to leave it alone but I don't feel great about what is happening here another but more subtle shoulder emphasis we're getting into the beiges that peachy little shoulder pop looks like this looks like deconstructed Playboy Bunny to me with the pink more you know pink leaning Peach little bunny ears there's that beautiful screen again bubble skirt you know sometimes you see these fashion shows they got so many titties showing like I'm afraid one of my videos is going to get taken down or something just a quick look at Jan Batista Valley a lot of bubble skirts I've been seeing a lot of bubble skirts come around especially ones that are not to the floor like scaparelli showed a lot of those that are like midi length or ankle length and he's showing more in a floor length but there's a lot of bubbles happening this season Alexis mile also showing the Pantone color of the Year miss SOI typically shows a lot of jewel tones and a kind of Jewel tone like brighter jewel tones gem colors like I like calling them gem colors um like jewel tones to me scream fall colors like ruby red garnet red you know deep deep emerald green and not grassy emerald green whereas hers are more like fun gem colors so I don't know that's just a a me thing but she does touch on color of the Year also she also is doing some bubble skirts and another thing that I see quite a bit this season is a hip emphasis there's going to be a lot of things where the there's added padding around the hips or the end of the Torso is going to be cut off with a seamline right under the hips but in such a way where there's like drop waist seam cutting padding some other kind of embellishment emphasis where where we're going to pay a lot of attention to the hips this is actually one of my favorite dresses of Miss SOI this season just I think I prefer when she is a little bit more restrained because when she like I think she does great when she goes 150 Buck Wild like the most editorial and then when she pulls way back and she shows a lot of restraint and ends up with something really beautiful but when she tries to hit this middle ground between Buck Wild and ready for the Opera like it gets a little costumey a little like it's not I maybe it's just not her strong suit the red is not part of this gown okay because I'm teaching the color theory for fashion class on my patreon right now I'm really back in full force just seeing color schemes everywhere here is a green and red complimentary color scheme in one one outfit with all the beading along the bottom and the pink lining I love a surprise lining overall it's an overall analogous color scheme we are starting with Reds and pinks red violet violet blue violet and then a little bit of green here and there it's a wide analogous color scheme neighboring colors but that is what it is but overall I don't think this was her strongest it looks very costumey here's that drop waist again but in this case it just makes her look very short-legged it's the contrast of colors whereas something like this that's monochromatic she still looks very long even with the drop waist again here with the monochrome I don't love this dress but she's still looks long in it because it's monochromatic and there's that undergarment that's not quite looking like it should be an outerwear corset that one looks like an outerwear corset I don't know if red was the right choice for this look I think she's trying to go for some of these more offthe wall Valentino style color combinations but this wasn't quite it overall I've Lov miso he's past work but this was not a great collection ellab there's never much to say about ellab unless you just want me to keep saying beautiful dresses beautiful gowns what is there to say they're beautiful women are going to want them women are going to want to wear them are they groundbreaking no but should just gorgeous design and beautiful craftsmanship just always be lotted oh yeah yeah there's that panone color of the Year this one is more pinky this one is a bit more peachy a little bit more in between G the embellishments are always so good you know what what are you supposed to say just wow just gorgeous what do you want just let's dissect this color story we have double comps which is you know complimentary color scheme it can be a little one note with a larger collection so a lot of designers who do larger collections like this they'll do double comps two pairs of complimentary color schemes we have red and green here and here and then we have orange and blue which are those peachy tones with these bluish gray greenish little drib drab of purple but mostly the blue and orange and the red and green Jean patier by Simone rosha this season you know he has that uh revolving roster of uh I wouldn't call them up and coming like people in fashion know these names they're more like on the cusp of like being super duper famous you know like being more household name past you know people who are famous within fashion I don't think Simone Rosa is a household name but I think she could be I think she could be so again a ton of black and a lot of pantones color of the year a lot of peach a lot of beige we have the one plus-size model of the Season that I saw if you saw others let me know in what is essentially a fairly shapeless dress so it's beautiful but it's also shapeless which is always really disappointing um crochet is something that honestly people people are obsessed with right now it is having a moment we saw a lot of that in scaparelli we're going to see it here Simone Rosa always loves a pop of red so the pop of red is not a huge surprise uh jeo goer has been known always for the his treatment of that sounds weird the treatment of breasts that's not how he dresses breasts okay and so the bre emphasis across the collection um is a beautiful tie-in to Simone Rosa's play with how she dresses breasts all the cors sitting meeting um Simone Rosa's love of the long strands of ribbons I love the little seashell cup bazer things on the dresses but as I go through the collection I just keep thinking about how they all look a little too close together and I'm not sure if that was intentional I don't know if yall remember this trend on Tik Tok where people were doing this filter where the camera took a picture of one half of their face and they just flipped it so that you could see how weird it looked for your face to be perfectly symmetrical and some people didn't use that filter quite right and their eyes ended up a little bit too close together and it made them look really weird that's what this feels like to me when the breasts are a little bit too close together it doesn't look like it fits their n their frame naturally can't you just see it better just like half an inch just like look how the Sailor thing definitely a goatee reference the cone bra meets the big skirted coat bubble skirt okay this is a beautiful Simone Rosia gotier mashup this absolutely reminds me of that peachy pink tightly corseted uh dress that was corseted all across the back modeled by Sophie doll back in the day hashtag if you know you know the little spray of red is absolutely Simone Rosa you know I love Simone Rosa I did a whole video using her as a case study for Unity and variety and I talked a lot about the themes that she goes through and uses often and how much I love her work and how I want to wear this and how I want to wear that and so to say that I don't love this collection I like it but I don't love it cuz you know one of the things I love from both goer and Simone Rosa is the gender flippery okay um a little bit more obvious with goer than Simone Rosa but I would have liked a little bit more playing with the gender flippery that would have been really interesting to me especially seeing gender flippery done this day and age as opposed to the peak of Go's career um yeah I mean this is very cute I love how there's so many flat shoes cuz I personally have got done away with heels in my I have like two pairs of emergency heels and then I have my wedding shoes stored somewhere but like but I love this the course of course you know it is a beautiful Vin diagram you know like if she were to take over this house you know I think out of all the people who have done a collection for gotier I'm most familiar with Simone rocha's work and that van diagram she nailed it except this section where gender flippery would belong but she really nailed all the rest of this and she got a little bit in here she got a little bit in there but she really nailed that intersection this one is slightly better the bra cups here's that hip emphasis with the hip padding more hip padding and also like constraining garments that don't quite look like they're supposed to be one on the outside these bra cups are too close together they're so it's making me crazy look at these little bra cups that are just like they should just be just half in yes I'm going to obsess over it forever this dress I might also obsess over forever my sister has recently taken up crocheting I might just send this to her and be like hey mhm thank you you can make me one doily for every diaper of yours I changed during my childhood okay bye is it just me or is good ofir venas back or has she been back and I just didn't notice because I spent most of last year locked up in a hospital and not watching a ton of Runway shows but I love that she's back she's one of the the few like big models that I've seen in person and I mean who knows what she looks like now this was back when I oh man I'm going to say about 20 15 to 20 years ago I saw her in person at a magazine stand and when I tell you that her skin like had that Lit from within glow and you know those people who just ooze effortless cool just sanding around and I love this the hip emphasis the kind of unconventional embellishment this is very cool I love this I don't understand where this fits in at all it's got a cool wavy drop waist I was hoping to see a back view of this to see like maybe the back was so interesting it was worth this super boring front but no and this is so awkwardly made what is this they didn't even press this top seam what and this course it looking backwards but look at this beautiful this is also beautiful so yeah I mean there are a lot of beautiful pieces like I said I like it but I don't like love it I wanted to love it I wanted to love it but I just love her work period so maybe I'm being hypercritical because I have like booed her up in my mind here's Victor and ra off all black and beige okay it's not really about Pantone color of the year it's just really about I think that dress form beige muslin color because a lot of this references dress making and dress making process what does the review say uh Victor and Ralph Scissor Hands dismemberment okay whatever but yeah I do feel the whole Edward Scissor Hands Victor and Ral Scissor Hands situation some of it looks like um and fashion school students will know this uh that feeling when uh some parts of your garment turned out great so you just want to take a big pair of scissors to it but Victor and they often play with themes of the process of dress making and so this is just super fun to me this all half done another like undergarment corsetry revealed and then of course there are some that just look like the garments but they are the most boring but this whole underneath the structure with the undergarments the horse hair being revealed love that sort of thing this whole I love this this whole day like you took a picture of a dress and there was a picture of the woman wearing the undergarments underneath and you just took a strip of paper and just went but yeah the Finish pieces aren't and maybe that's the point definitely panone color the year but made richer deeper so touching on that Trend without literal translation of the trend and then we get into softer Rosy earthier peaches here you see hip emphasis in more subtle ways with this sort of embellishment here drop waist that little emphasis there drop waist this emphasis here drop waist and the emphasis here here here here here Robert one's collection was one of those where objectively as someone who follows fashion I acknowledge how beautiful it is and how well crafted everything looks and how cool the tech techniques are but personally don't have any connection to I just don't feel it and that's not on him that's just my own personal thing um you know a lot of people were talking about how there's a lot of repetition from last season because Robert wound is establishing his house codes but I just don't think that they were maybe I don't buy it I'm a little bit torn about that like the Raindrop like trench coat where it looked like he was in the rain and the Raindrops Were crystallized and everything just such a beautiful effect but him doing it again I'm not like wow he did it again but I feel like you should be like wow he did it again but better and you see that in this one this one is one where you feel like oh he took that kind of concept and pushed it a little bit further but this one is a little bit too different it is special in its own way and shows a lot of beautiful technique but it just and maybe the Silhouettes weren't as wow because last season it was the silhouette it was the mood it was the drip it was the newness like all of that that combin it's like if he's going to establish something that looks like it got rained on as a as a house code like how often can he do it without it looking repetitive a lot of umbrellas like last time a lot of paint splatter like last time paint splatter umbrella but done in pearls if this was the first time seeing something like this I would be wow but it's not just looks a little bit too much like a school project where your teacher told you to deconstruct a trench coat but there's a lot of this like uh emerging out of a skirt that looks like a coat this whole thing this whole thing this just looks too guy Fury for me nothing against guy fury because I don't actually know much about him at all um but just it's very that cheesy painted flames on black on a car sort of thing this just needs a better transition from this business casual top to um Dance Competition ruffled skirt sort of thing like where is the connection this one is a little bit better cuz at least this one also looks like a dress and that one looks like it belongs to a dress but again this disconnect I don't know how they flow together this is cool I like this we've got the paint splatters we've got the drippy wet looking thing going on with the colorful pearls that's like a this to me looks like a continuation of last season but not done exactly like last season this is the one we've got the sharp pleading we've got the extreme hat we've got the splatters we've got the drip like it's like a movie in a different direction it's a little bit new it's fun but like dramatic I don't understand what that is I actually really like these super pointed uh breasts that aren't like real cone breasts but they are just really extreme and sharp and I don't know I just really love those I actually really love those this looks like a little too much like 20-year-old Gareth Pew someone said that these hands look like when uh that kid in Home Alone slaps his hands against his face you know ah and now I can't unsee it Pantone color of the year I know I sound like I work for Pantone I absolutely don't they don't even know I exist so whatever deconstructed corset this one is a little overdesigned this one kind of looks like early days of Corona virus when we were all talking about those Death Masks this is marila heavy on the black and the olive drab very dark Moody with like a closing series of the the light blue strip very fairy tale referencing and there's that Mr pearls corset the extreme this sort of look like literal hourglass as oppos opposed to like oops more you know standard hourglass a lot of coret showing look at how extreme that is this show didn't quite have like plus-size models as it did just have random not extremely thin models I think that the story of of this marula season is Pat McGrath's makeup for it there's that hip emphasis again a lot of revealed corset tree it's always been a gallano sort of thing he does where he loves to show kind of the the tailoring elements that we often do not see in a finished garment like basting stitch es and the undergarment corsetry so this trend is like perfect for him people are talking about how oh Dior is back but it's over at marila it's like this is I think darker and moodier and than anything he ever did for Dior or would have progressed with Dior and I don't think he would have been uh playing with gender flippery at Dior like he does over here I think that's not the Dior thing and he KN he knows that but you know gallano he knows how to tell a story to be dramatic also show a bit of sense of humor using unconventional materials or using conventional materials to make them look like unconventional materials like this is not actually corrugated cardboard but it looks like it's made from corrugated cardboard if I didn't stop by your favorite look it's probably because I'm afraid of YouTube taking my video down okay there was a lot of TNA in the show but yeah a lot of hip emphasis look at these big Pockets uh a lot of those revealed corsets a lot of black a lot of beige so I'm going to end on Valentino nobody asked for Valentino but it's a big show so I feel like I should address it and you know it's like oh there's a bubble skirt and you know complimentary color scheme analogous color scheme bunch of black some Valentino red I don't know this one was just like very wearable but also not I feel like we've moved away from the big boxy oversize but he hasn't and it just doesn't look new it doesn't look yeah it doesn't look new like it everything kind of looks like we've seen it already in in color comp you know these are color combinations I I was once excited to see um but it's kind of all been done now and I would like to see something new now just really not all that interested it's one of these collections where on first glance it looks like it would be wearable but it's really not I feel like we've all moved past the generally boxy oversized looks um and we're doing kind of strategic oversize more now so I mean I love those Pockets though you know I'm a sucker for big pockets but just looks kind of 80s but not in a fun way did I love any of the collections this season M I think scaparelli is the closest but there wasn't any where I'm like oh my God I'm so in love and I need everything and I want to but there were a lot of cool things anyway please give this video a thumbs up if you enjoyed my hate parade of things I didn't like about this season's Couture collections let me know your thoughts of individual shows this season and uh I'll see you in the next video

Channel: Zoe Hong

Views: 9,383

Keywords: zoehongteaches, zoehong, Zoe Hong, Zoe Hong Teaches, couture, haute couture, couture spring 2024, haute couture spring 2024, schiaparelli, robert wun, miss sohee, valentino, elie saab, zuhair murad

Id: MJG-K90ntAg

Length: 41min 19sec (2479 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 28 2024