Round Epoxy Table Build

hey this is cam with black tail studio and this week we are building a round walnut and epoxy table and if this slab looks kind of weird it's because it's actually a slab from a root section of a walnut tree so it's kind of like the native americans using every part of the buffalo we are using every part of the tree and if you want to know how much the slab cost it was actually free one of my followers dropped it by one day when i was giving him actually an old table that i wasn't using anymore so pretty cool to have a free slab to use for a table it's going to make a pretty interesting round table so stay tuned as you can tell i haven't exactly gotten into the 3d rendering scene yet so for now cardboard is going to have to do and i actually had my very first screw up already right there broke it in half good thing we were working with epoxy and we're just gonna put more epoxy in but it is gonna make this first part a little bit more difficult since i had this exact layout picked out already with the client i need to make sure i kept that consistent after i broke the pieces in half so that's why i put the hollow template on the bottom using that round one on top to mark the exact center and that's going to come into play when we use our circle cutting jig here in just a couple minutes but first going to go out get it all cleaned up pretty standard using the wire wheel angle grinder just getting all the soft wood rot bark anything else that's just not good hard walnut we're going to get all that off before we attach these with the splines you might have seen me use this spline jig in some past videos there's nothing too complicated it's just a rectangular cutout that i run a half inch router bit through that creates these basically just rectangular splines and they're not gonna be as strong as say like a bow tie but they're gonna be plenty strong enough to hold these together while i make my mold and do my epoxy pour if you watched my last round table video you saw me screw up pretty bad and i tried to use the wrong tool to cut a circle it was just a bad idea from the start the jig wandered on me and it started to cut an oval instead of a circle so now i have a dedicated circle cutting jig and if you're curious about this jig or anything else in this video if you want to know what kind of router that is i will include links to everything in the video description so that way you can find exactly the tools i used in this video and you'll probably notice that most all the links included are amazon links and you should know that those are affiliate links i do get a small percentage of it it's not a ton of money but at the end of the month it does make enough of a difference that it helps keep the lights on helps me keep being able to create videos and they are the tools that i really use so it's not like you have to worry about if i'm only using it because the sponsor paid me to so the tools i use and yes i do get a small percentage of it that does make a decent difference at the end of the month so i do appreciate it if you click through and use those links if you decide you want to use any of these tools in this video and all i'm doing for cutting this circle is i use my circle cutting jig and i cut about a half inch down with a spiral router bit to give me that perfect circle coming back with my jigsaw and i'm just cutting kind of close the line making sure i don't go into my circle and then we're going to come back here with a flush trim bit and remove that excess and this is going to give us a perfect circle and you should know that my finished table is going to be 30 inches and i cut this at about 32 inches so that's going to give me enough room to cut it down to make sure i get my exact 30 inches in the end if you haven't discovered spiral router bits yet you are not living on the router table and this one is starting to get a little dull you'll see a little bit of burning but they last infinitely longer than straight bits they cut so much better they give you they basically double the power of your router so i highly highly highly recommend any straight bits and any flush trim bits get a good carbide spiral router bit i was trying something i've never done on a table before here with this liquid glass epoxy and this is normally just a deep pour epoxy you would use to fill the river portion but what i'm doing is i'm going to soak the whole slab in it because this epoxy is such a slow cure it's going to get into the really really dry wood it's not really rotted it's just an especially dry slab so i'm going to kind of paint the whole thing and as certain areas absorb i'm going to keep adding over the course of about 12 hours to make sure they're really just saturated and hard enough to make a good table in the end so not something i do on every table but for this root slab it was just so dry that i wanted to make sure it was nice and stabilized my last round table i was not very impressed with myself for the form that i made for my round table and this time i think i actually came up with the perfect way to build a form for a round epoxy table and one thing you'll need is a circular cutting jig and i could use the same one that i was cutting the burl out with earlier but i am using my bandsaw one because it's a little bit faster you do see that i should have clamped it down though it's starting to tilt which got a little dangerous so try to be a little bit more safe than me and all i'm doing here is basically cutting a 32 inch circle and that's that's roughly the size of my walnut root slab so once i get my circle cut i'm going to test it out make sure that it's a good fit for my root slab and you can see there it is just barely bigger than it which is exactly what i wanted so didn't want to be too tight and then i'm going to kind of go back to what i used on that first round table build and i am going to run a beaded caulk all the way around it and use the same landscape border that i used on the first one and this is actually from the same table you can see it's slightly used there the only difference is ran that caulk around and now i'm going to throw some wood screws that i'm countersinking in there and then just screwing them in and it's going to create a perfect watertight round table mold that's going to have really hardly any waste which is what i had too much of on the last table there was too much waste so to make sure it doesn't leak adding another seam of caulk and then it is going to be good to go the client and i both agree that there was a few too many voids in this root slab so we took one of the fingers cut it off and we're going to use that to fill this spot right here which i think filled it in pretty nicely and then we're just going to scuff up the edges like we do anytime we do an epoxy pour clamp it down and make sure to clamp it down i've had some problems with that recently and now we're going to mix up our liquid glass and this is really my go-to epoxy lately it is a deep pour we can go all the way up to two inches two and a quarter inches comfortably if you get some fans maybe even deeper so this table didn't take a ton of epoxy for once it was only about eight liters so make sure you get your ratios right that is really really critical and more critical than that even is make sure you mix it really really well i'm doing a black dye that's a trans tint dye it's a really good super dark dye just make sure you get it mixed well you can see the edges there don't mix automatically with that paddle mixer so you need to go and scrape it scrape it stir scrape it stir you have time with this epoxy so don't skimp out here i've had a lot of horror stories from people that message me saying their tables are still gummy or tacky a month later which means they probably didn't mix it well enough to begin with so make sure you get it mixed pour isn't really super critical just kind of go in nice and easy get your level try not to make a lot of splashes but it really doesn't matter too much because most the bubbles will pop on their own even though i use a torch there just for fun a good tip is to always go back and use the brush to kind of brush the sides and this will prevent any of those bubbles from clinging to the sides and like i said most all the bubbles will pop on their own not entirely all of them it's always kind of an ongoing struggle to make sure we can eliminate as many bubbles as possible but this is one additional step you can do that will really help this is a 72 hour cure i think i probably waited about a week i like to give it a couple extra days to make sure it's reached its full hardness before i take it in to get it planed and i was amazed at how easily this mold came off so i did forget a couple screws but other than that it came off perfectly so for once i think i finally found the perfect round table form i don't love using the chisel to get it started the wood wedges are much less marring on the table but i did have to use my old chisel just to get it started enough to get a wood wedge in and then it came up pretty easy and from here i'm gonna go to my favorite industrial shop in portland creative woodworking and a couple passes and got it right down to i think we actually went a little bit further than i was planning and went to inch and three quarters but these guys saved me so much time by letting me run it through their giant planar slash wide belt sander so saves me a ton of time now i can go back cut it down to its final shape that's going to be 30 inches exactly you see there is a scale to measure right on the circle jig i like to double check it with a tape measure there measuring 15 inches to the inside of that half inch router bit and that's going to give us that perfect 30 inch circle and once we have our circle cut about a half inch deep i'm using my jigsaw and if you're wondering what this is the festool vacuum clamp that's allowing me to spin it like that it's a pretty slick little tool going back over to my router table and my flush trim bit which at this point was actually super dull so i'll probably get some comments from people about the burn marks here which i'm not proud of it is definitely time to get this sharpened or get a new one but it ended up being just enough to get through this last table before needing sharpened even though i have this hooked up to a dust collection system it's still getting really really messy and i am not always the best about ppe i'm trying to get a lot better especially since i'm doing this for a full-time profession now so i was wearing respirator glasses all the proper ppe for this one and here i am just doing a 22 degree chamfer and this is a nice shallow pass then i'm gonna come back do a full one inch deep pass here once again i'm gonna do something i haven't done on a table before and i'm gonna use that same deep pore liquid glass resin and we're going to do this to kind of stabilize any remaining dry areas that were just a little bit too soft for a table and same process we did before we did the epoxy pour just going to paint the whole thing but when we're done we're going to go back sand it scrape it and what's gonna remain is just good hard wood and then any of that drier areas will be then nice and stabilized with that epoxy and the rest of it is gonna just scrape off the top like you see here if this is your first time watching one of my videos first off welcome i really appreciate you watching and i am very well aware that i go super fast i know i have a lot of viewers outside the country and english isn't your first language so the fact that i talk so fast can be a little overwhelming sometimes and also there's just a lot of information to take in in a short amount of time so you should know that i am really really good about answering every single youtube comment so if you guys leave a question if you leave a comment i will read it i will answer it and if you look through some of my past videos you'll see that i answer every single comment in there so i'm not clear on anything if you're a little unsure of why i did a process or maybe you have a better idea please feel free to leave me a question or comment down below and i will read it and i will respond if you do like what you see though if you do get something from it if you do learn something from the comment that i reply to the only thing i ask in return is that you just hit that little subscribe button that bell up in the corner because adding the subscribers that's what enables me to keep making content keep making videos because i do put out a new video every single thursday so i would really appreciate it if you go ahead and hit that subscribe button right now and if you go through some of my old videos you might even see some weird things like that diy sanding glove that i made there which is just a velcro glove for sanding the corners of my tables and table legs i'm starting to realize that this was really a table of a lot of firsts and i have never before used this seal a cell with the osmo top coat that you're going to see me use here in just a couple minutes but the stila cell is a really thin penetrating finish that actually hardens unlike say the osmo 1101 that you've seen me use in some past videos that doesn't really get hard this is going to penetrate in there stabilize any remaining soft portions of wood and then i can add my osmo top coat which is going to be the coat that really adds to the look of it this is going to be more just to kind of get in there and stabilize some of that you know really dry softer wood we did about 24 hours before coming back sanding this before my first top coat of osmo and here i am using the osmo 3043 and i'm troweling it on here and it is a little better to buff it in and there was one problem though with this particular shot is once i got it all in there i put my buffer on there and it made my iphone freak out which right there so you didn't get a very good shot of that but i ended up doing several coats of the 3043 i just kept adding it until it got exactly like i want and there was actually quite a lot of sheen on this table when i was done a little bit more than i normally do but in the end i went over with a client and this is exactly how we wanted it and don't worry i do not expect you to be able to get a perfect finish like this from these few glamour shots that i'm showing you here so i do have a detailed finishing blog that includes a full video so i'll include a link to that in the video description that's going to show you step by step how to get a perfect finish in a dusty shop the last step that i do here is using this liquid wax cleaner and then a clean pad and i just go in and buff it out and that's going to usually remove any remaining kind of haze or swirls left from your previous buffing pad i get a lot of questions to people saying that they did the same finish method and they get some swirls left probably means you had too much of that 3043 product on there but that liquid wax cleaner will help even a lot of that out the client for this table was a large man so he needed a large man base which is why you see it's so tall this table was about 36 inches and it's going to be an entryway table a table for him i believe to throw some keys and have some entryway gear set on it so that base was custom built by a friend of mine bryson steele at built by steel and i did decide to go a step further and recess that base and normally i like to come up with a jig but since it was a funny triangular shape i had to kind of come up with something off the fly and what i did was just cut the straight lines with my track came back and cut out the inside with this and then the last thing i had to do was just kind of clean it up and then cut the edges with the chisel and you want to leave enough room for wood expansion so you don't want it to fit in there perfectly tight and you'll see here just about right yeah so that is exactly how we want it and then we are going to add some threaded inserts if you want some additional steps on how to attach table legs how to recess table legs like this last week's video i believe was or maybe two weeks ago i actually did a full video on how to attach table legs so i'll include a link to that in the video description as well one of the things i am always working on improving is becoming a better photographer because if you can't take a good photo of your product how is anybody going to know what you are capable of making and i'm getting better and better as it goes but here is the finished shot i like to show a video so you can show that it's not doctored that i'm not really photoshopping things before i give my nice edited photos and these were done with a technique called light painting not something i invented but it worked really well for photos like this and overall this was one of the prettiest tables i have ever done i am really really thrilled with how it turned out the base is actually not going to stay silver he is doing his own custom powder coat so i'm shipping it to them and it's going to be like a black or oil rubbed bronze but i am really really thrilled with it let me know in the comments what you think of it and for those of you that watch my videos before you know that i like to give a little bit of credit to the people that make it all the way to the end of the video so start your comment your question with my name cam cam and i will know you watched the entire video and i promise i will get to all of your questions and comments first so if you liked this video if you want to see more videos like it please hit that subscribe button right now thanks again and have a great day

Channel: Blacktail Studio

Views: 14,871,725

Keywords: round table, diy round table, how to cut circle, diy epoxy table, how to make epoxy table, diy resin table, diy river table, epoxy table, epoxy art, ecopoxy, ecopoxy taBLE, liquid glass epoxy, round epoxy table, how to woodworking, diy projects, cool projects, how its made, custom furniture, live edge table, round walnut table, walnut and epoxy table, amazing table, custom table, circular table, entryway table

Id: LkrMoEzaAHo

Length: 15min 28sec (928 seconds)

Published: Thu May 21 2020